Christoph
Wachter is a leading producer in the Eisenberg DAC and handcrafts very
fine wines of great purity and elegance. The 2015 Blaufränkisch
bottlings are fabulous in their perfect ripeness and balance. Without a
doubt, these are great Austrian red wines."
—Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
The stage was set for a winemaking revolution. It
began with the move away from new oak for ageing and towards lower
alcohol levels (12.5% is now typical and 12% quite common for regular
Eisenberg DAC wines) pioneered by the then almost absurdly young
Christoph Wachter of the Wachter-Wiesler winery in Deutsch Schützen. For
him, this was all about letting the floral (violets and lilac), black
fruit (elderberry and sour cherry) and spicy aromas (black pepper and
clove) from the grape shine, and allowing the dry tannins and bright
acidity of the grape to speak clearly rather than being smothered by
flavors extracted from new oak barrels."
—Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com
Austria
2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 -
Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and
ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
After a wonderful dinner at Restaurant am Ratschen and a night at Wohnothek am Ratschen, founded, owned and run by Josef and Gerda Wiesler (nee Wachter):
High-end Sleeping and
Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by
ombiasy WineTours
we went to Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, all in Deutsch-Schützen.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler is run and owned by Christoph and Anne Wachter.
There
is also Weingut Thom Wachter, run and owned by Thom Wachter, brother of
Gerda Wiesler. Before creating his own winery, Thom Wachter was
involved at the Restaurant am Ratschen as sommelier and co-owner.
The visit at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler was a tasting only, led by Anne Wachter.
The wines of Weingut Wachter-Wiesler are available in the USA through Bowler-Wines.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler (schiller-wine)
Weingut
Wachter Wiesler in Deutsch-Schuetzen is one of the leading winemakers
in Suedbrugenland. The two Weingueter of the Wachter and Wiesler
families were amalgamated in 1999 through a marriage. The Wiesler and
Wachter families have both a long wine growing tradition. Both wineries
always had focused on the classic Blaufränkisch. But they vinified other
grape varieties as well, such as Welschriesling, Weissburgunder and,
later, Cabernet and Merlot.
The vineyard area totals 9 hectares
today, with holdings in top-rated sites in Deutsch-Schützen and
Eisenberg. 95% of the area is planted with the red varieties Zweigelt,
Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the remainder is planted
with Welschriesling. In addition, grapes are bought in from an
additional 2 hectares of vineyards. The flagship product is the Cuvée
Julia, a blend of Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in
barriques for 16 months.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler - Bowler-Wines
Christoph
Wachter began working at his family winery in 2008 when he was just
twenty years old. He took over full responsibility in 2010, and now
farms sixteen hectares of vineyards in Südburgenland, in the towns of
Eisenberg and Deutsch Schützen. His credo, "Wine is the most
interesting, natural and authentic when you recognize its origin. After
that, all of our efforts are aligned - and so our grapes grow as close
to nature and with as little outside influence as possible. The
character comes entirely from the soils of Deutsch-Schützen and
Eisenberg."
When Wachter started in 2010, he stopped using herbicides and
pesticides entirely. Today, he is one of only three producers in
Südburgenland who is farming organically and is certified as of the 2018
vintage. In 2012, he studied biodynamic farming for two years and he
applies some biodynamic techniques today. He allows the weeds to grow in
his vineyards, as they attract beneficial insects and eventually return
to the soil as nutrients themselves. Rather than add fertilizer, he
leaves the vines to extract what they need from the soil itself, thus
instilling the wines with minerality and allowing them to express their
unique terroir. Only native yeasts are used in the cellar. Wachter
ferments his wines twenty to thirty percent whole-cluster, and ages in
large barrels that allow the wines to mature gracefully without
obscuring them with oak flavors.
The wines of Eisenberg / Sudburgenland are very unique expressions of
Blaufrankisch grown on green schist; most Blaufrankisch comes from the
limestone soils of Mittelburgenland. The biggest difference between
Burgenland and Südburgenland is the soil and micro-climate. In
Südburgenland, the vines grow in primary rock, and the most prized
terroir is the green schist of the Eisenberg hill, regarded as one of
the finest sites for producing Blaufränkisch in Austria, giving wines of
great finesse and focus. The Eisenberg DAC includes wines from the
surrounding villages, including Deutsch-Schützen, where you find iron
rich loam and clay on top of the green schist subsoil.
Deutsch-Schützen’s soils are dense with a deep layer of loam, resulting
in dark and spicy wines with soft tannins. Südburgenland is cooler than
Mittelburgenland and there are rolling hillsides, small mountains
really, called the pre-Alps, topped with forest; this regulates the
temperature, another aspect of the micro-climate of Südburgenland.
Harvest here tends to start two weeks after Mittelburgenland.
Sudburgenland, with 500 hectares planted is considerably smaller
compared to Mittelburgenland with 2,100 hectares.
In the summer of 2019, we were able to meet with Wachter in Eisenberg
and we tasted through his new 2017's. He modestly admits that this is
perhaps the best vintage that he has made to date. It finally was the
first "normal" vintage since 2012 with great weather - no hail or
drought - the first vintage since 2012 with great quality and quantity.
It allowed Christoph to launch an idea that he's had in mind for a few
years. In addition to his single vineyard wines, he will bottle two
village level wines, one from Deutsch Schützen and one from Eisenberg.
And he made four single-vineyard wines: Weinberg, Ratschen, Saybritz,
and Reihberg. His cuvee Bela-Joska remains the flagship of the winery.
It's named after his two grand-fathers and the cuvee was first bottled
in 1992.
The Wachter-Wiesler wines are some of the most exciting red wines
made in Austria today. Wachter-Wiesler wines have silky texture, floral
aromatics, great energy, and elegance - truly Blaufränkisch at its
finest.
Wachter-Wiesler (Heiner Lobenberg)
Das Familienweingut Wachter-Wiesler ist quasi ein Paradebeispiel für
gelungenen Generationswechsel. Als Christoph Wachter den elterlichen
Betrieb am Eisenberg übernahm, hatte er eine klare Vision: Er wollte das
Potenzial der alten Reben nutzen um noch ausdrucksstärkere und
terroirgeprägtere Weine zu produzieren.
Mit der Hilfe seiner Schwester und des gesamten Teams, hat es
Christoph dann auch geschafft das Weingut dahin zu bringen, wo es heute
steht – an die qualitative Speerspitze der Region. Hier entstehen
ungeschminkte und puristische Weine. Es sind »Spiegelbilder« der
vielfältigen Grünschiefer- und eisenhaltigen Lehmböden. Das Herz der
Familie schlägt besonders für den Blaufränkisch – sicher DIE rote,
autochtone Rebsorte Österreichs, die in der Lage ist Weine von
Weltklasse hervorzubringen. Die als Lemberger nach Deutschland
weitergewanderte Rebsorte vermag nur im Burgenland diese unglaubliche
Tiefe und Dichte bei immens dunkelfruchtiger Würze hervorzubringen.
Wachter-Wieslers Spitzengewächse spielen in der internationalen
Oberklasse mit und zeichnen sich vor allem durch eine kernige Spannung
und nachhaltige Stoffigkeit aus, bleiben dabei aber immer sehr klar,
extrem fokussiert und haben diese gewisse mineralische Tiefe. Das
funktioniert laut Christoph nur durch eine naturnahe Bewirtschaftung –
seit dem Jahrgang 2018 nun auch offiziell Bio-Zertifiziert – und den
Verzicht auf jegliche Hilfsmittel oder Chemie im Keller. Keine Schönung,
keine Filtration, möglichst wenig Schwefel und nur behutsamer
Holzeinsatz sind das Erfolgsrezept für diese großen Weine. Im wahrsten
Sinn »Naturweine«, aber sie sind eben nicht zu abgefahren und werden
auch niemals anstrengend – im Gegenteil: Man möchte immer noch ein
zweites oder auch drittes Glas von ihnen trinken. Dieses
Fingerspitzengefühl haben neben Christoph Wachter nur sehr wenige –
nicht ohne Grund hat sich in so kurzer Zeit wohl noch niemand an die
Spitze der österreichischen Rotweinerzeuger vorgearbeitet.
Christoph & Julia Wachter Wiesler (newcomerwines.com)
Even
if you are an Austrian wine aficionado, chances are you haven't been to
Südburgenland. Rural and relatively remote, South Burgenland is perhaps
best described as quaint, especially juxtaposed with its thriving and
buzzing northern neighbour that is Burgenland.
In 2010, at an almost absurdly young age of 20, Christoph
Wachter-Wiesler took over all responsibilities of his family winery. As a
fifth-generation winemaker, Christoph immediately shifted the focus to
Blaufränkisch, the indigenous grape variety that probably originated
not far from the area and has always been around. Over the last few
years, Christoph painstakingly converted to organic farming practices in
all 65 parcels of 16 total hectares of vines spread across the gentle
hills around the village Deutsch Schützen-Eisenberg, where Christoph's
father has been the mayor and the Wachter-Wiesler family call home.
Up until about 100 years ago, this corner of Austria was a
German-speaking region of Hungary. The Hungarian heritage is still
hugely influential today, both culturally and vinously. Eisenberg,
meaning iron mountain in German, is extremely rich in iron, and gives
the crumbly schist a blue-green colour that turns brown when oxidized by
water or oxygen. The only other place to find greenschist is above
4,000m in the Alps, but here it’s loaded with minerals that gives
Christoph's Blaufränkisch an incredibly beautiful minerality.
Now at 33, Christoph is already an old hand around the winery and is
very much making waves in the wine world. He is now creating some of the
most refined and energetic Olaszrizling we've tasted, and has vowed to
grow and make the most mineral and elegant Blaufränkisch, many of them
from single vineyards, to fully explore the delicacy and aging potential
of the grape.
Arriving at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler in Deutsch-Schützen, Burgenland
Welcome
Anne Wachter was our host.
TastingThis was a tasting-only visit.
Bye-bye
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria -
Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021
American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the
Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with
Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile,
Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution -
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and
Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at
Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian
Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in
Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was
Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and
Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by
ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister
Dinner with a View at Hotel Weinrefugium, Steiermark
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler
Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark
Lunch and Tasting at Buschenschank Weingut Trummer, Steiermark, with Jürgen Trummer
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Steiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor
Lunch at Restaurant Magnothek/ Weingut Tement, Südsteiermark
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr.3 at Graz Opera, Steiermark
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle
At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer with Chef Jan Pfeiffer, 15.5 Point Gault Millau
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger
The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stephanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch
Lunch at Braugasthaus zum Fiakerwirtin Langenlois, Kamptal
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Martin Mittelbach
from the "Tegernseehof"and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented
Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from
“Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian
Embassy in Washington DC, USA
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tebernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau
Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Nigl, Kremstal, 13.5 Points Gault Millau
Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery
Farewell Dinner at Café Central in Vienna
