Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

May 16, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

≪ Previous: Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chef Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, and Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyards, at Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland

In connection with the 5th annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore in Maryland, USA (May 14, 2013), about 40 wine bloggers, columnists and writers toured wine country Maryland. One of the highlights of the pre-conference trip was the second stop at Black Ankle Vineyards. We were visiting Black Ankle Vineyards to both taste wine and to eat lunch catered by the Woodberry Kitchen of Baltimore, a restaurant devoted to farm-to-table cooking.

See also:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA 
Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA
Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA

Black Ankle Vineyards

Black Ankle sets the new standard for what is going on in Maryland wine. Black Ankle has won numerous awards for their wines, including recent Maryland Governor’s Cup Awards.

Picture: Black Ankle Vineyards

Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce (both former management consultants) planted their first vines in 2003 after a lengthy search looking for farms with the worst soil. They succeeded, buying a 142-acre farm on Black Ankle Road in the rolling hills of Carroll County near Mt. Airy.

Ed and Sarah explained that the meager 1 1/2 feet of soil is 60 percent rock with a solid layer of rock below. Although this soil environment would be a nightmare for a farmer planting traditional agricultural crops, it proved perfect for their vision of a world-class vineyard growing vinifera grapes.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyards

Currently, Black Ankle has 42 producing acres. Since Ed and Sarah purchased the property, they have made and applied compost in place of chemical fertilizers and they have never used herbicides of any kind. “Although we are not yet able to farm 100% organically, we are optimistic that with more research and ingenuity we will get there before too long,” say Ed and Sarah. “We have also made the decision to farm with the principles of Biodynamics. Black Ankle’s barrel room holds 300 French oak barrels. It is constructed with hay-bale walls coated with a plaster made from the farm’s earth and wood harvested from their acreage.

The business has been a bit of a juggling act for Ed and Sarah, who have kept their house in Silver Spring and, except at harvest time, alternate days at Black Ankle with working from home. They have five children, one in college and four at home.

Woodberry Kitchen

I have yet to visit Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore. Let me quote Huffington Post: “Nestled in a long-closed mill in Baltimore's Hampden neighborhood Woodberry Kitchen is a bastion of local and organic cooking.

Pictures: Owner and Chef Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, and his team at Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland

Since opening in fall 2007, the place has won acclaim for dishes by chef and owner Spike Gjerde. The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema enthusiastically endorsed it, writing "One part Fannie Farmer, one part Alice Waters, Woodberry Kitchen is all heart. Go, Baltimore!" In Washingtonian magazine's list of the 100 best restaurants in the region for 2012, Woodberry Kitchen is the only Baltimore spot profiled.

Here, the wait staff is equipped with answers to a multitude of questions: Where is the meat from? How is it prepared? Is this fish wild or farm-raised? Is this sour cream homemade? (The answer to that last one is yes.)”

Chef Spike Gjerde told us: “Woodberry Kitchen relies on longstanding relationships with the growers of the Chesapeake to provide the ingredients that nourish and delight our guests. At our table, you join us in supporting sustainable agriculture that respects the abundance and traditions of the region while helping to ensure its future.”

The Lunch

We had lunch in the Black Ankle tasting room. Completed in 2007, the tasting room—built to reflect the owner’s belief in sustainability—was constructed from the farm’s wood, straw, soil, rain and sunshine, and from as many locally green materials as possible.

The Food

Seasonal Tartines

Grilled Chesapeake Oysters - Spring onion-horseradish verjus, fish pepper butter

Next Step Organic Wheat Berry Salad - Yogurt, radishes, pea shoots, pecans

Whole Maryland Suffolk Lamb - Grilled chops over grapevines, confit belly, fresh sausage, scallions and potatoes with herbs

Beiler’s Heritage Acres Cornflour Cake - Grape preserves, buttermilk sherbet

The Wines

2012 Black Ankle Vineyards, Gruener Veltliner – (Barrel Sample)

We were greeted by a glass of a excellent 2012 Gruener Veltliner that complemented seasonal tartines.

Hogsheadwine: “The nose revealed white fruit then some weight yellow fruit aromas.  In the mouth the floral fruit had both good acidity and mouthfeel.  There were flavors of honeysuckle in this wine with good length and round aftertaste. Nice.”

2011 Black Ankle Vineyards, Bedlam

With grilled Chesapeake oysters we sipped the floral 2011 Bedlam, a blend of Chardonnay, Albarino, Muscat, Viognier and Gruener Veltliner.

Hogsheadwine: “There was a fresh, bright nose with herbs and the slight texture of white fruit.  In the mouth the flavors were of drier white fruit which was tart and mixed with acidity that made my tongue salivate on the sides.  There was a yeasty note in the middle.”

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Rollings Hills

This wine is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 8% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot which was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. Alcohol 13.6%.

Hogsheadwine: “The nose was of light red berries.  In the mouth there were berry flavors and a hint of something bright.  The flavors had density with acidity at the back of the mouth.  There were some grapey tannins along with fine-grained tannins in the structure.  There was a cool finish.”

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Leaf Stone Syrah

This wine was aged for 18 months in 65% new French oak. Alcohol 14.6%.

Hogsheadwine: “The beautiful nose had depth with floral fruit that smelled proper and was evocative of the Northern Rhone.  The flavors were young and tight but still enjoyable.  There was some grainy texture to the fruit and a creamy feel to the blue, grapey, and red flavors.  There was a touch of lipstick in the finish.  The acidity was well-integrated along with a deft touch of ripe oak tannins.  Nice.”

NV Black Ankle Vineyards, Terra Dulce II

A fortified wine, made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petite Verdot, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Chardonnay, Albarino, Gruener Veltliner, and Muscat.

Hogsheadwine: “The color was a tawny garnet.  There was tangy red fruit in this fortified wine.  Herbs and acidity came out at first with the red fruit.  Then tea, tobacco, and more tobacco.  It was a little spirity at this point and could use some age for integration.”

schiller-wine: Related Postings

At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA 

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine

Schiller's World of Seafood

Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA

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The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

May 19, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine

≪ Previous: Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo of Agricola Querciabella at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia

Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo was in town (Washington DC area) and presented his ultra-premium Querciabella wines at Open Kitchen in Falls Church, Virginia. Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey had prepared Tuscan food to complement the wines.

Agricola Querciabella

From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.

Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.

Pictures: At the Tasting at Open Kitchen in in Falls Church, Virginia

Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.

Chemical–free viticulture was introduced at Querciabella  with the conversion to organics in 1988. This was followed by a transition to biodynamics in 2000. Today, Querciabella practices a farming and winemaking regime known  as cruelty–free biodynamics, which bars the use of animal–derived products from all phases of grape growing and winemaking.

With 74 hectares (183 acres) of prime Chianti Classico  vineyards – located in the municipalities of Greve, Panzano,  Radda and Gaiole – in addition to 32 hectares (79 acres) in  Maremma on Tuscany’s unspoiled Etruscan coast, Querciabella’ holdings represent the largest extensions of biodynamically  farmed (certified organic) vineyards in Italy, contributing extraordinary biodiversity to local and surrounding ecosystems  and serving as a sanctuary for thriving numbers of honeybee colonies.

Chianti, Chianti Classico and Sanghiovese

The Chianti region is split between Chianti and Chianti Classico. Accordingly, two separate DOCG designations apply to wines from the Chianti region: the Chianti Classico DOCG for the heartland of Chianti, and Chianti DOCG for all other Chianti regions.

Sangiovese is the signature grape of Chianti. The Sangiovese grape, like the Pino Noir, is not an easy grape variety, but has the potential of producing world class wines.

Since 2006, the use of white grape varieties such as Malvasia and Trebbiano has been prohibited in Chianti Classico. The share of Sangiovese can range from 80% to up to 100%, with the remainder either other native red grapes, like Canaiolo and Colorino, or international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Wines that do not comply with these rules – of which we tasted a number during the trip - cannot be sold as Chianti Classico.

Super Tuscans

In the 1970s, a class of wines that became known as Super Tuscans emerged. These wines were made outside DOC/DOCG regulations, but were of high quality and commanded high prices.

The Italian DOC/DOCG system is a highly specific set of production requirements that is designed to ensure a certain quality and taste corridor for all wines from a specific DOC or DOCG. It is amazing, how detailed the production requirements are for a wine to qualify as a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, for example. That the grapes come from the Brunello di Montalcion DOCG zone is just one of many requirements.

Pictures: Getting Ready - Open Kitchen Owner Hue-Chan Karels and Giorgio Fragiacomo

The advantage of such a detailed and rigid system is that consumers have a very good idea of what they get when they buy a bottle of wine, both in terms of taste and quality: No surprises, as the taste and quality range of Italian DOC/DOCG wines is rather narrow compared to other countries. But this may also be a disadvantage. If, as a winemaker, you want to experiment and try something new, you have to leave the DOC/DOCG system and sell your wine as a Vino da Tavola or as a Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wine. And this is what a number of Tuscan wine producers did.

By the 1970s, the market for Chianti wines was suffering and the wines were widely perceived to be lacking quality. Chianti was typically associated with basic Chianti sold in a squat bottle enclosed in a straw basket, called a fiasco. In response, a group of ambitious producers began to experiment. Some of these producers wanted to make Chiantis that contained more Sangiovese than allowed. Others wanted less Sangiovese and experiment with blending French grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Many did not want to be required to blend in any white grape varieties. Thus, the late twentieth century saw a flurry of creativity and innovation in the Chianti zones as producers experimented with new grape varieties and introduced modern wine-making techniques such as the use of new oak barrels. These wines became known as Super Tuscans, had to be classified as a Vino da Tavola or as IGT wine, while the prices and wine ratings of Super Tuscans would often eclipse those of the DOCG Chiantis.

See more:
Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Agricola Querciabella Portfolio

Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the  Chianti Classico zone: Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay;  Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno,  a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG  made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces  Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines

Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.

Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend.  Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.

The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.

The Wines we Tasted

Querciabella Mongrana Maremma Toscana IGT 2009

Sangiovese (50%); Merlot (25%);  Cabernet Sauvignon (25%).
Biodynamic (since first planting, 1997).
130,000 bottles

Bright red fruit and cherry give the wine a lively, cheerful personality and the wine's structure is perfectly balanced and smooth.  Market $31

Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Cabernet Sauvignon (70%); Sangiovese (30%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
15,000 bottles
First vintage: 1981.   Camartina is made and released only if the vintage
 reaches a very high quality level. Camartina was not  produced in 1989, 1992, 1998 and 2002.

Dark fruit, spices, leather and tobacco are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass. Mineral notes appear later to frame the long, vibrant finish.  Market $165

Pictures: Charlos pouring Querciabella Camartina Toscana IGT 2008

Querciabella Chianti Classico Chianti Classico DOCG 2008

Sangiovese (95%); Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
100,000 bottles
First vintage: 1974

Beautifully delineated with a crystalline finish, this Chianti Classico is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep red-ruby. Balsamic black plum, sweet milk chocolate and coffee liquor aromas on the captivating, mineral-accented nose.  Market $43

Querciabella Batàr Toscana IGT 2009

Chardonnay (50%); Pinot Blanc (50%).
Biodynamic since 2000; organic since 1988.
5,000 bottles
First vintage: 1988

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo pouring Querciabella Batàr IGT 2008

Opens with a beautifully intense bouquet of vanilla bean, peach cobbler and citrus mousse. White almond and toasted spice make for rich accents on the long fresh finish.  Market $97

Giorgio Fragiacomo

Giorgio Fragiacomo is a wine adventurer who hails from North Eastern Italy but grew up in Australia. A combination that led to his acquiring the simultaneous passions for yachting, fine wine and fine art (in which he has a degree from the University of Sydney) from a tender age.

After spending too long in the wrong career, he has now corrected his course and has been navigating the treacherous but exciting waters of the fine wine world for over a decade. Giorgio effortlessly earned his WSET Diploma with top marks, and is a qualified professional sommelier. He has worked in wine journalism as well as sales and marketing for leading wineries of the Piemonte, Veneto and Toscana. He currently steers the export sales of Querciabella.

Open Kitchen

Open Kitchen is owned by Hue-Chan and John Karels. "Our Mission" Hue-Chan says "is to create a unique culinary gathering space that celebrates the kitchen and the table as centers of pleasure and community. Open Kitchen is…

A full-service bistro that honors the farm-to-table spirit with seasonally, ingredient-driven menu of handmade, comfort food, using fresh, local and sustainable products as much as possible.

Picture: Giorgio Fragiacomo, Hue-Chan Karels and Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey

An intimate, fully-equipped, commercial kitchen facility and dining space offering custom-designed, interactive, and engaging private events for business and social gatherings, life celebrations, and chef-instructed, design-your-own cooking classes.

A gourmet market and wine boutique that reflects our philosophy that there is a magical relationship between wines, foods, and human connections. An evolving concept that includes Open Kitchen’s newly launched Wine Club featuring weekly wine tastings, seasonal wine dinners, wine reward program, and wine shop with gourmet snacks and nibbles.

Amid the noise and haste of modern living, Open Kitchen aspirse to provide guests with a culinary retreat for gracious living…a place to relax, unwind and share in the joy of food, wine, and community."

Pictures: Open Kitchen

As its name suggests, the space is pretty much open, with the meal preparation going on in front of your eyes, especially if you snag a counter seat.

The decor of Open Kitchen is modern. When you enter the place, you see the "open kitchen" with the Chef and his team at work. The kitchen is surrounded by a large wooden bar. You have the option to sit at the bar, the dining bistro area, which includes pub style butcher block tables or the fully covered patio.

See more:
A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Special Taste of Tuscany Menu

Open Kitchen Culinary Director Christopher Carey prepared Tuscan food to go with the wines:

Fava Bean Crostini with Fresh Mint & Pecorino Shavings (V)

Chicken Liver Crostini

Grilled Lamb Meatballs with Shaved Fennel, Lemon Juice & Cold-Pressed Olive Oil

Pappardelle with Porcini Ragù (V)

Bistecca alla Fiorentina with Arugula & Shaved Parmesan (GF)

Bruschetta Prosciutto with Marinated Artichokes, Arugula & Shaved Parmesan

Spring Lemon Risotto with Asparagus & Peas (V, GF)

Panzanella (V)

Zabaglione with Vin Santo & Spring Berries

Chocolate Amaretto Tartlette

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy

An Apero at Zucca in Galleria in Milano, Italy

Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano– the Butcher of Chianti Classico

Meeting Wine Maker Paolo Cianferoni at his Caparsa Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Extraordinary Art and Wines at Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico, Italy

Tasting Wines where Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa was Born – With Wine Maker and General Manager Francesco Nardi at Vignamaggio Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Visiting Barone Francesco Ricasoli and his Castello di Brolio in Chianti Classico, Italy

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine

May 21, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: 4th Annual Chardonnay Day - Chardonnay Around the World and in Pouilly-Fuissé

≪ Previous: The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Pacific Rim Winemaker Nicolas Quille in Oregon

Quote from the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog:

“For those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation here is an excellent blog entry from Dr Christian Schiller about sugar levels, labeling laws and capitalization in Germany. A must read: http://schiller-wine.blogspot.com/2010/01/german-wine-basics-sugar-in-grape.html”
January 27, 2010

Here is the link to the Pacific Rim Winemaker's Blog.

Here is the link to referenced posting on schiller-wine. "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine"

German Wine 101

Here are more postings “for those of you guys that really enjoy digging into German laws and regulation".

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Pacific Rim in Washington State

Pacific Rim in Washington State produces 190,000 cases of wine, almost all of which is Riesling. It is owned by the Banfi family from New York.

Pictures: Pacific Rim Winery in Washington State and Pacific Rim Wines

Randall Grahm

One of the wine world’s true iconoclasts, Randall Grahm, founded Pacific Rim. The owner of famed Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz in California started his Pacific Rim project in 1992. Unusually, he used grapes from Washington State and from Germany.

By 2006, Randall Grahm’s decided to downsize and reorganize. Randall sold his popular Cardinal Zin and Big House brands and started to spin off his Pacific Rim wines as a standalone winery in Washington State, where the US Riesling grapes came from. He worked with the Den Hoed family, longtime grape growers in the Yakima Valley, to create a winemaking facility in the shadow of Red Mountain. The Den Hoeds built the building, which they own and lease to Pacific Rim. This year, Pacific Rim has been purchased by the Banfi family, which owns an important wine import company in New York and a famous winery and vineyard in Italy.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Randall Grahm in San Francisco

I met Randall recently in San Francisco while I was there to see Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen at the San Francisco Opera. Randall was accompanied by his wife and his daughter. His wife is Japanese and this explains there is a Geisha on the Pacific Rim label.

See more:
August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Nicolas Quille

Nicolas Quille has accompanied the spin-off and eventual sale of Pacific Rim from beginning to the end. Nicolas joined Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz as General Manager in 2004 and initially managed the whole company, including Pacific Rim, but then focused on coordinating the spin-off of Pacific Rim and eventual sale to the Banfi family in 2010. He is now the General Manager and Winemaker for Pacific Rim winery. Nicolas came to the United States in 1997 and worked for J. Lohr and The Hogue Cellars.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Nicolas Quille in Oregon

I met Nicolas at the 1. Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium in Hillsboro near Portland (OR), where the headquarters of Pacific Rim is. We had lunch together and talked a lot about Pacific Rim.

See more:
Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

Steven Sealock

Steven Sealock is the resident winemaker at Pacific Rim in Washington State. Steven told me that “as an Air Force brat, I lived in Germany for several years. Combine this with a German mother and you can begin to understand why Riesling has a special place in my heart. To me, Riesling and German beer is a normal accompaniment to a filling meal. So I jumped at the chance to work here at Pacific Rim, a great company dedicated to making world class Riesling.” Steven started his career in the wine industry at Columbia Winery.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Steven Sealock at the Pacific Rim Winery

See more:
Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine

The Wines of Abeja, Washington State

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made

Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

August Kesseler’s Pinot Noir and Richard Wagner’s Ring der Nibelungen in San Francisco, USA

Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

4th Annual Chardonnay Day - Chardonnay Around the World and in Pouilly-Fuissé

May 22, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Martin Mittelbach from the Tegernseehof and Klaus Wittauer from KWSelection Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

≪ Previous: Pacific Rim Winemaker’s Blog Recommends "German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine" on schiller-wine

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Picture: Pouilly-Fuissé

Today is the 4th annual Chardonnay Day. This is a global event set to run 24 hours in order to give everyone time to have a glass of Chardonnay when it makes sense in their time zone. All you have to do is share on Facebook, Twitter, YouTube, Foursquare or any other social site using the #Chardonnay hash tag all day May 26th. You'll be able to search what other wine lovers are sharing by searching posts using the #Chardonnay hash tag.

See also:
Third Annual Chardonnay Day– Chardonnays Around the World, Snooth’s Top Picks and Hamilton Russell Vineyards in South Africa
A Global Event: Second Annual Chardonnay Day (@Chardonnay) #Chardonnay

Chardonnay Around the World

Chardonnay is grown wherever wine is made, from England to New Zealand, although the best Chardonnay comes from the Bourgogne. It is one of the most widely-planted grape varieties in the world, with over 175.000 hectares.

Chardonnay first rose to prominence in the Chablis, Bourgogne and Champagne regions. The Bourgogne Chardonnays were long considered the benchmark standard of expressing terroir through Chardonnay. In Chablis, Chardonnay is the only permitted AOC grape variety. The wines rarely go through malolactic fermentation or are exposed to oak. The biting, green apple-like acidity is a trademark of Chablis. In the Champagne, it is most often blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy account for more than 3/5 of all Chardonnay plantings in France.

In the US, Chardonnay found another region where it could thrive in California. The early trend to imitate the Bourgogne wines soon gave way to more buttery and oaky styles. New oak barrels coupled with malolactic fermentation were used to produce wines that were big in body and mouthfeel, and high in alcohol. In recent years, Californian winemakers have been trying to go back to more Old Word Chardonnay, leaner, using less oak and lower alcohol levels.

In Australia, the export driven wine industry was well situated for the Chardonnay boom of the 1980s and 1990s. Now being more famous for its Sauvignon Blanc production, Chardonnay was New Zealand's most widely planted grape variety until only a few years ago.

In conclusion, the area planted with Chardonnay throughout the world is estimates at over 175.000 hectares, with the US and France accounting for about half of it.

Large Chardonnay Producers in the World (in 1000 hectares)

1. USA (California 45, Oregon 3,Washington State 3)
2. France 35 (Bourgogne, Jura, Champagne, Loire Valley, Midi, Charentes).
3. Australia 23
4. Italy 12
5. Moldavia 8
6. South Africa 8
7. Chile 8

Chardonnay in the Mâconnais - Pouilly-Fuissé

Pouilly-Fuissé is a wine, known all over the world. Here are some basics: (1) Pouilly-Fuissé AOC is part of the Mâconnais, which is part of the Bourgogne. (2) In 1936, when the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC was created, 3 “Pouilly” AOCs were created: Pouilly-Fuissé AOC and Pouilly-Loché AOC plus Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC. (3) In 1971, the Saint-Veran AOC was created; it sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC. (4) All these AOCs are located in the extreme south of the Mâconnais subregion and of the Burgundy wine region as a whole.

See:
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Mâconnais

The Mâconnais in the Bourgogne takes its name from the provincial town of Mâcon. Most of the wine made in the Mâconnais is white wine. Chardonnay is the main grape grown.

Picture: Macon

Unlike the Cote d'Or to the north, where a densely planted strip of vineyards runs through the countryside, the vineyards of the Maconnais are more sparsely planted and interspersed with land dedicated to other forms of agriculture.

Macon has historically been most famous for its red wines. During the 20th century, however, white wine production accelerated dramatically and now represents the large majority of Maconnais wines. These whites are produced exclusively from the quintessential Burgundian variety Chardonnay.

Macon Appellations

These are the Macon appellations.

Bourgogne AOC – Interestingly, red wine made from Pinot Noir in Macon is typically sold under the more-prestigious, but broader Bourgogne AOC appellation.

Macon AOC - the generic appellation for red, white and rose wines from the Maconnais. The term Superieur may be added to denote a slightly higher alcohol level.

Macon plus name of village AOC: a number of communes within the appellation have been recognized as sources of higher-quality wines and may append their names to that of the appellation; for example, Macon Lugny.

Mâcon-Villages AOC - a title reserved for white wines.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC
Pouilly-Loché AOC
Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Saint-Veran AOC

Vire-Clesse AOC – introduced in 1999.

Pouilly-Fuissé AOC

Pouilly-Fuissé is an AOC for white wine produced in the communes of Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintré. The AOC was created in 1936. The area - before known simply as "Pouilly - was split into three AOCs: Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles.

Pictures: The Pouilly-Fuissé Vineyards

The Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards total 750 hectares; the Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles vineyards are much smaller.

While Pouilly-Fuissé is the best-known part of Mâconnais, there are no Premier Cru or Grand Cru vineyards within the AOC.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol.

The Beaujolais King George Deboeuf grew up in Pouilly-Fuisse.

Pouilly-Fume is an AOC further up north in the Loire region, on the opposite side of the Loire from Sancerre.  It has nothing to do with Pouilly-Fuissé. Only Sauvignon Blanc is made here.

Pouilly-Fuissé Climats/Lieux-dits

In the wine world, lieu-dit is something like a single vineyard, the smallest piece of land which has a traditional vineyard name assigned to it. In some cases, lieux-dits appear on wine labels, in addition to the AOC name. This is most commonly seen for Alsace wine and Burgundy wine. In the Bourgogne, the term climat is used interchangeably with lieu-dit.

The climats of Pouilly-Fuissé are:

Chaintré : Les Chevrières, Le Clos Reyssier, les Plantes Vieilles, en Cenan
Fuissé : Les Vignes Blanches, Vers Cras, Le Clos, Les Brûlés, Les Perrières, Les Combettes
Solutré-Pouilly : En Servy, La Frérie, Aux Chailloux, Aux Morlays, Vers Cras, Au Clos
Vergisson : Les Crays, La Maréchaude, En Carmentrant, En Bulland

Picture: 2008 Pouilly-Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, En Servy

Pouilly-Loché AOC and Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC

Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles are located adjacent to the appellations Pouilly-Fuissé.

Pouilly-Loché AOC vineyards total 32 hectares and the Pouilly-Vinzelles AOC vineyards 52 hectares.

The AOC regulations only allow Chardonnay to be used. The allowed base yield is 50 hectoliter per hectare and the grapes must reach a maturity of at least 11.0 per cent potential alcohol. The three neighboring appellations all produce white wines of a similar style.

Saint-Véran AOC

Saint-Véran is a relatively new AOC, which sandwiches the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC.

The Saint-Véran AOC extends over 8 communes and is divided into two small islands separated from each other by the Pouilly-Fuissé appelation. It is made up of the villages of Davayé, Prissé and Solutré-Pouilly in the north, and Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes, Saint-Amour and Saint-Vérand in the south.

The Saint-Veran appellation covers 645 hectares. The maximum yield is 55 hectolitres/hectare, which is higher than in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation.

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Martin Mittelbach from the Tegernseehof and Klaus Wittauer from KWSelection Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

May 23, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: The Finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards

≪ Previous: 4th Annual Chardonnay Day - Chardonnay Around the World and in Pouilly-Fuissé

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

One of the main drivers of Austrian wine at the East Coast in the US, Klaus Wittauer from KWSelection, invited for a special luncheon at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, where Martin Mittelbach from the Wachau presented his wines, paired with Austrian apetizers presented by Stefan Trummer from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton and prepared by his new Executive Chef Austin Fausett. I also had the chance to taste Martin Mittelbach’s wines the day before in Reston, at the Wine Cabinet.

Picture: Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

The Wachau

The Wachau is a UNESCO world heritage site in the Danube Valley between the towns of Melk and Krems. Mainly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are grown 1,350 hectares, partly on very steep-inclined terraces.

Pictures: Martin Mittelbach, Klaus Wittauer and Christian G.E. Schiller at the Wine Cabinet in Reston, Virginia

The Wachau is one of Austria's most exciting and fascinating wine regions. Over millions of years, the Danube has gorged its winding waterway through the 'Gföhl' gneiss, a mineral rich composition of migmatitic granite gneiss, quartz, felspar and mica. The weathered primary granite rock soils on steep terraces produce outstanding Rieslings. Following the end of the Ice Age, prevailing winds carried drifting sand that settled in the lee of the east-facing hillsides, resulting in layers of loess forming. This is where great, opulent and expressive Grüner Veltliner is cultivated. These extremely diverse geological terrain, coupled with the construction of terraces in the best aspects, and the cultivation of vines on these steep inclines by the Bavarian monasteries during the Middle Ages, has resulted in a spectacular and unique Wachau landscape.

The climate also plays a vital role, and two major climatic influences, the western Atlantic and the eastern Pannonian, interlock with each other. 

Pictures: Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy.

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours, see:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Wachau Wine Classification

In the mid-1980's, a select group of innovative producers in the Wachau created their own codex, aptly called the Vinea Wachau, where dry white wines are divided into three categories, based on their natural alcohol content by volume. Martin Mittelbach belongs to the group.

Aromatic, light-bodied wines up to 11.5% are called 'Steinfeder' (named after the tall, feather-like grass stipa pennata). The most common category is the 'Federspiel', with 11.5% to 12.5% alcohol by volume, and the late-harvest, rich and powerful, dry wines carry the term 'Smaragd'.

Martin Mittelbach and his Tegernseehof in the Wachau

The Mittelbach family's Tegernseerhof, located in Unterloiben, just below Dürnstein, boasts a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. The original facilities were built in 1176 by the Benedictine community of the Tegernsee Abbey. At the time, the abbey was recognized as a center for literature, the production of illustrated books and erudition. The abbey and its vineyards were first mentioned in a small book about the Tegernsee vineyards in 1427. For centuries, the abbey was where the Bavarian monastery produced its wine. At the turn of the 19th century, it was acquired by the Austrian Empire and decades later, it went into private ownership.

Pictures: Klaus Wittauer, Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

Franz Mittelbach and his wife, Mathilde, are the fifth generation of  Tegernseerhof owners. Since the 1970s, they have been continuously running the Tegernseerhof as a family business. Today, Martin Mittelbach, the son of Franz and Mathilde, has carried on this tradition. Vineyards: 23 hectares (57 acres); 50 % Terraced Vineyards

Pictures: At the White House

The Wines

I tasted a range of wines during the 2 events. All of them are included here.

Tegernseehof Rosé Zweigelt 2012 US$12

Klaus Wittauer: “A beautiful hue of watermelon sets just the right tone for this bright, disarmingly fun rosé. Crisp, dry and ultra-refreshing, this light to medium bodied wine exudes an intoxicating perfume of ripe cherry and crushed strawberry. The wine holds its balance throughout the finish, never once striking a confectionery note. A joy to drink and absolutely appropriate anytime.”

Tegernseerhof T 26 Grüner Veltliner 2012 Federspiel US$16

Klaus Wittauer: “The vineyard is called Frauenweingarten. When we  tasted this wine the first time in 2006 it was in tank #26. Very aromatic, full of round fruit balanced with crisp acidity. The distinct soil lends a pleasant minerality, while the tropical fruit play is balanced with a white pepper note typical of this varietal. Pairs well with a wide range of foods including Asian cuisine and fish with fresh herbs.”

Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Bergdistel 2011 Smaragd US$27

Klaus Wittauer: “The Bergdistel Smaragd is a blend of the lower terraces of the different Cru’s in Loibenberg and Weissenkirchen.  The combination of coolness, maturity and vitality of this Grüner Veltliner finishes in a shining elegance and full of finesse! Intense, concentrated wine, which packs spice, ripe pineapple and apricots and a final floral character that fills the mouth.  The result is one of the most elegant and balanced Smaragd Grüner there is…….”

Tegernseehof Riesling Terrassen 2012 Federspiel US$20

This wine just got 92 points in Austria and was voted best Federspiel Riesling by Falstaff

Klaus Wittauer: It´s peach, apple aroma flavors, mingle with a white pepper note in this scented yet powerful Riesling. Balanced and ending with a mineral aftertaste. This wine is simply delicious.

Tegernseerhof Weissenkirchner Zwerithaler 2010 Smaragd US$33

Klaus Wittauer: “This single vineyard from Weissenkirchen in the Wachau has very old vines and it is a field blend which is called “Gemischter Statz“ in Austria. Here is how Martin Mittelbach describes the wine: “Through the picturesque extravagance of “Zwerithaler” this cru developed into ascetic museum - old varieties, crumbling walls - the time seems to have stood still. To bring the flavor potential of these two positions accurately and significantly expressed, we put the varietal character in the background. This is a full-bodied dry white wine with a rich creamy texture similar to some to the great White Burgundies with a long beautiful finish……”

Tegernseerhof Riesling Loibenberg 2009 Smaragd US$27

Klaus Wittauer: “This single vineyard Riesling rivals the greatest white wines in the world. Powerful and punchy, layered with abundant fruit and complex minerals, it's stunningly great now and for the next twenty+ years. It tastes rich and lush in the mouth and finishes with a huge wallop of acidity that accentuates the complexity like a giant exclamation mark! Wow. Serve with sushi & sashimi, Mussels Meuniere, trout "Muddy Waters" from Uglesich's in New Orleans and roast pork loin with apples and cabbage.”

Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Hoehereck 2010 Smaragd US$27

Austrian Apetizers from Trummer's on Main in Clifton, Virginia

Tom Sietsma of the Washington Post: “One of my favorite mom-and-pops in the area remains this three-story retreat in the charming hamlet of Clifton, where owners Stefan and Victoria Trummer continue to greet you as if you're good neighbors, and chef Clay Miller sends out food that makes the trip from anywhere worthwhile.” “At Trummer’s on Main, we combine my New York City experience with the charm of historic Clifton by stimulating guest’s senses with excellent food, always-intriguing unique cocktails and true European hospitality” says Austria-borne Stefan Trummer.

Christian G.E. Schiller with Martin Mittelbach, Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC

Stefan Trummer came with his new boss of the kitchen at Trummer’s: Chef Austin Fausett's formally Sous-chef at The Inn at Little Washington. Austin also cooked for one year in Vienna and speaks a bit of German.

Gurkensuppe

Smoked Trout Caviar with Buckwheat Blinis, Rhubbarb and Onion Jam, and Crème Fraiche

Chicken Liver Mousse Tartine on Baguette with Fava Beans and Toasted Hazelnuts

Asparagus Tips Wrapped with Speck and Greek Jogurt

Kuchen

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The Finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards

May 26, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2013

≪ Previous: Martin Mittelbach from the Tegernseehof and Klaus Wittauer from KWSelection Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Stuart Pigott (Blogg: Stuart Pigott’s Planet Wine) in Frankfurt, Germany: Stuart Pigott at the Weinhalle in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Stuart Pigott is a "Single Subject Wine Blogs Finalist", but Stuart has a problem with this. He feels that he does not belong into this category. I fully agree with him.

The finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards were announced.

The awards are open to any English-language wine blog located anywhere in the world. The winners will be chosen based on 50% of the input coming from the judges and 50% coming from the public vote and will be presented live at the 2013 Wine Bloggers Conference, during the Saturday June 7th awards dinner in Penticton, British Columbia.

Picture: Christian Schiller (schiller-wine) with David White (Terroirist) - a Best Overall Wine Blog Finalist - and other Bloggers, Isaac James Baker (Reading, Writingand Wine) Annette Schiller (Ombiasy Wine Tours) Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead Wine)  Frank Morgan (Drink What You Like)

See more:
Virginia versus the World – A Blind Taste-Off, USA

2013 American Wine Bloggers Conference

The 2013 Wine Bloggers Conference will take place June 6-8 in Penticton, British Columbia, Canada.

Up to 400 citizen wine bloggers, industry bloggers, and other wine and social media professionals will gather from throughout the world to meet, learn, and share at this, the sixth annual conference.

Best Blog Post of the Year
Finalists:

• W. Blake Gray’s Darth Vader is My Lover: Revelations about Brettanomyces
• Lilyelaine Wakawaka’s Escaping Convention: Calibrating to Stark Conditions, a Conversation with Greg Brewer
• Katie Kelly Bell’s Adventures in Taste
• Ron Washam’s Blind Book Review–”How to Love Wine”
• Alfonso Cevola’s Rape of the Veneto
• Ron Washam’s The Death of WIne Critics

Best Original Photography or Video on a Wine Blog
Finalists:

• The Journey of Jordan
• 4488: Ridge Wine
• Stay Rad
• What’s in the Bottle
• Chasing the Vine

Best Industry/Business Wine Blog
Finalists:

• The Gray Report
• The Wine Curmudgeon
• The Academic Wino
• Hosemaster of Wine
• Fermentation: The Daily Wine Blog

Best Wine Reviews on a Wine Blog
Finalists:

• RJ On Wine
• Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews
• Wine Mizer
• Bigger Than Your Head
• Wines of Croatia

Best Single Subject Wine Blog
Finalists:

• On Reserve: A Wine Law Blog
• Washington Wine Report
• New York Cork Report
• Mad About Madeira
• On The Wine Trail in Italy
• Stuart Pigott’s Planet Wine

Best Winery Blog
Finalists:

• 4488: A Ridge Blog
• The Journey of Jordan
• Been Doon So Long
• Tablas Creek
• Half Full: The J Blog

Best Writing On a Wine Blog
Finalists:

• Hosemaster of Wine
• Maker’s Table
• Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews
• Jameson Fink
• The Drunken Cyclist

Best New Wine Blog
Finalists:

• Chasing the Vine
• What’s in the Bottle
• Unscrewed

Best Overall Wine Blog
Finalists:

• Hosemaster of Wine
• 1 Wine Dude
• The Terroirist
• The UK Wine Show
• Steve Heimoff

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May 28, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Global Wine Consumption and Production

≪ Previous: The Finalists in the 2013 Wine Blog Awards

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Picture: The Winners and Runners-up

For the third time, the Falstaff Trophies Deutschland were awarded. The wine/food/travel journal Falstaff has been around for a number of years, issued in Vienna, Austria, and reporting about wine, food and travel from an Austrian perspective, for Austria-based readers. About three years ago, Falstaff expanded into the German wine and food scene and started to issue a German version of Falstaff in addition to the well established Austrian version. As part of its expansion, Falstaff has created the annual Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies, to be awarded to 4 German wine personalities. (A number of the pictures in this posting are courtesy of Ralf Kaiser - Weinkaiser.de).

For previous years, see:
Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2011
Best German Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2012

Hansjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (Pfalz), is Winemaker of the Year

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz is a family-owned winery, which was founded by Hansjörg Rebholz’s grandfather. His approach is to do as little as necessary in the wine cellar and as much as possible in the vineyard, i.e. he belongs to the school of winemakers that believes that wine is made in the vineyard and not in the wine cellar. The result: wines that always require a certain maturity and development before they blossom into full beauty. In the tradition of his grandfather, who was aiming at producing "natural wines" and these "with the precision of a Swiss watchmaker" Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz is now fully biodynamic said Peter Moser, editor of Falstaff, in his speech.

The Runners-up

The runners-up were Werner Schönleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber from the Nahe, and Gunter Künstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler from the Rheingau.

Picture: Werner Schönleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber from the Nahe, Hansjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz and Gunter Künstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler from the Rheingau (from left to right).

Picture: Gunter Kuenstler with Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Eva Fricke, Weingut Eva Fricke (Kiedrich/Rheingau) is Newcomer of the Year

From 2004 to 2011, Eva Fricke was the Operations Manager at Weingut Josef Leitz. Eva Fricke, how was born and grew up in Bremen in Northern Germany, produced her first own wine in 2006, from particularly steep slopes in Lorch. Since 2008 Eva Fricke lives and works at the Koetherhof in Kiedrich where the winery of her about 3 hectares vineyard area is located. Award presenter and fellow winemaker Roman Niewodniczanski pulled his imaginary hat to Eva Fricke's performance, establishing from scratch one of the most exciting wineries in the region. He is "utterly blown away" by her Rieslings.

Picture: Eva Fricke and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

The Runners-up

Also nominated were Lea Linster and Maximilian von Kunow (Crossmosel-Projekt) und Michel Städter of Weingut Chat Sauvage in the Rheingau.

Picture: Eva Fricke, Lea Linster and Maximilian von Kunow (Crossmosel-Projekt) und Michel Städter of Weingut Chat Sauvage in the Rheingau (from left to right)

Picture: Eva Fricke and Roman Niewodniczanski, Van Volxem

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Michael Staedter

See:
Weingut Chat Sauvage– Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany

Jens Pietzonka, Restaurant »bean and beluga« in Dresden, is Sommelier of the Year

The Runners-up

The Runners-up were Sven Oetzel (La Vie in Osnabrück) and Stefanie Hehn (Seehotel Überfahrt am Tegernsee)

Picture: Sven Oetzel (La Vie in Osnabrück), Jens Pietzonka, Restaurant »bean and beluga« in Dresden and Stefanie Hehn (Seehotel Überfahrt am Tegernsee)

Fritz Keller, Weingut Franz Keller - Schwarzer Adler (Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl) Received the Trophy for his Live Achievements

Fritz Keller, born in 1957, is winemakers, wine merchant, restaurateur and hotelier. Since 1990, he has been heading the family-owned winery in Oberbergen and has also been the patron of the legendary restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Michelin star) in Oberbergen. For his dry white and red Pinot wines, which go very well with food, he has received international recognition already many years ago. Also, Fritz Keller was for 20 years the Vice President of the German Sommelier Union. His second passion (besides wine and good food) is football: since 2010, he has been the President of the SC Freiburg. In his speech, Marcel Reif praised Keller's tireless efforts for the promotion of German wine.

Picture: Hans Mahr (Falstaff), Fritz Keller and Marcel Reif

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Global Wine Consumption and Production

May 30, 2013, 3:10 pm

≫ Next: Winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery in Virginia: One of “40 American Tastemakers under 40” (Wine Enthusiast), USA

≪ Previous: Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2013

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen in Washington DC. Ernst Loosen not only makes wine in the Mosel Valley, but also in the Pfalz region in Germany and in Washington State as well as in Oregon in the US, for more see:

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Global wine consumption has increased by about 1 percent per annum in the past 10 years and is forecast to grow by about the same rate in the coming years. The US, China and Russia are driving growth in global wine consumption. The Old World is a drag on growth, as per capita consumption is declining and the population stagnating. The US has just become the largest wine market in the world and China is projected to become the second largest wine market in 2016.

Weinrallye # 63: EU Ban on New Vineyard Plantings

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "EU Ban on New Vineyard Plantings" . Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. This month's wine rally is organized by Sebastian Holey, who runs the wine blog “Weinbau und Oenologie".

Picture: Weinrallye

Currently, there are restrictions to planting vines across the European Union. The European Union wants to change this. If the planned reform goes through, by 2019 there will be no restrictions to planting vines across the European Union, even in countries that today have no vineyards. This posting offers some background information on the topic, by shedding some light on which countries produce and which countries consume the wine made in the world.

Old World, New World and Emerging Wine Countries

Old World and New World

Old World wine countries comprise continental Western Europe, with France, Italy, Portugal, Germany being the main countries. They are considered to be very much terroir driven.

New World wine countries are the US, Latin America, Australia and New Zealand and South Africa. Not all of them are new comers. Latin America has been producing wine, and large amounts, for centuries. But it was all done for the local market. Sure, when the Spanish came, they wanted to continue to drink wine, but wine was not exported in a meaningful way and was not present in the world market. While most of the wine production in Latin America is based on Old World varieties, the wine growing regions of Latin America often have "adopted" grapes that are particularly closely identified with them, such as Argentina's Malbec and Chile's Carmenere (both from France).

Other countries, like Australia and the US are real newcomers. Here, the terroir concept is on the back burner and the grapes are at the center of winemaking. Also, these are all countries with warm weather and New World wines tend to be juicy, high in alcohol and fruity.

Until the latter half of the 20th century, US wine was generally looked upon as inferior to European product; it was not until the surprising American showing at the 1976 Paris Wine Tasting that New World wine began to gain respect in the global market.

As for Australia and New Zealand, their wine product was not well known outside their small export markets. Australia exported largely to the United Kingdom, New Zealand kept most of its wine internally. South Africa was closed off to much of the world market because of apartheid, although in the 18th Century the largest exporter of wine to Europe was the Cape Province of what is today South Africa.

Emerging Wine Countries

There is another set of countries that has started to appear in the international wine market or may do so in due course. These are the emerging wine countries. They are emerging for two reasons. Some of them are benefiting from climate change as the northern border for wine growing is pushing up. Others are experiencing a major restructuring of their wine industry, notably the former Soviet Blog countries.

England is a prime example of an emerging wine country because of climate change. Many eastern European countries are emerging wine countries. Hungary has a long tradition of wine making and at some point in its history it was among the top wine producers of the world. But it lost contact to Western Europe as a result of the iron curtain and fell back, but is now clearly reemerging as major wine producer. Slovenia has reentered the international market quickly after the collapse of Yugoslavia in the mid-1990s and is producing now outstanding wines. Croatia is a bit behind, but has excellent potential. Serbia still has a long way to go. Poland has never been a major wine producer, but may benefit from climate change.

Another major emerging market is China, with a wine boom going on since 2000. China has emerged as the fifth biggest wine producer, mainly for domestic consumption, although Chinese wine has reportedly started to appear on the shelves of the West Coast of the US. On the demand side, the Chinese rich and famous have developed a taste for top French wines and are driving up the prices for them so that Lafite Rothschild for example has decided to set up a winery in China. China is projected to become the largest wine producing country by the middle of the century. On the other hand, China, where traces of wild wine dating from the second and first millennium BC have been found is clearly on the fast track and projected to become the world largest wine producer in some years.

Some of the New World and emerging wine countries are in fact very old. Archaeological evidence suggests that the earliest wine production came from sites in Georgia and Iran, dating from 6000 to 5000 BC. Georgia is one of the emerging wine countries following the collapse communism. Greece is another example with a long history, but only now emerging on the global wine market. Indeed, much of modern wine culture derives from the practices of the ancient Greeks. We all know, Dionysus, the Greek god of revelry and wine. Greek wine was widely known in ancient times and exported throughout the Mediterranean basin. The Greeks introduced the vitis vinifera vine to their numerous colonies in Italy, France and Spain.

Top 12 Global Wine Producers (in Mio. hl)

I am using numbers from the year 2010 to shed some light on the question: Who produces the wine in the world and who consumes it?

Picture: Global Wine Producers

1. Italy 48
2. France 45
3. Spain 36
4. USA 20
5. Argentina 16
6. China 13
7. Australia 11
8. South Africa 9
9. Chile 9
10. Russia 8
11.Germany 7
12. Portugal 7

Global wine production stood at 264 million hectoliters in 2010.

Three Old World countries account for about half of global wine production: With 48 million hectoliters, Italy is the largest producer, followed by France with 45 million hectoliters. The third country in the leading trio is Spain with 36 million hectoliters.

The New World country United States is ranked next in the list of top wine-producing countries, producing around 20 million hectoliters of wine. Zinfandel is the most popular grape, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon.

Argentina produces around 16 million hectoliters of wine each year. Only about 10 per cent of the wine produced is exported.

Then comes emerging wine country China. Around 80 per cent of the 13 million hectoliters of wine produced in China is red. Only a small amount of wine from China is exported currently but the wine industry is starting to take note of Chinese wines. Most of the grapes used are indigenous to China but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have a small presence in Chinese vineyards.

The New World countries of South Africa, Australia and Chile follow China. They produce between 8 and 11 million hectoliters of wine each year. Australia is the fourth largest exporter of wine, after Italy, France and Spain. Chile is a predominantly red wine producer with around three quarters of the country’s vineyards planted with red grapes.

The Emerging wine country Russia as well as the Old World wine countries Germany and Portugal, each with 7 to 8 million hectoliters, complete the list of the top 12 wine producers in the world.

The Top 12 Global Wine Consumers (in Mio. hl)

Now, who consumes the wine?

1. France 29
2. USA 27
3. Italy 25
4. Germany 21
5. China 14
6. UK 13
7. Spain 11
8. Argentina 10
9. Russia 10
10. Australia 5
11. Portugal 4
12. Canada 4

France, the US, Italy and Germany are the largest wine consumers in the world, each exceeding 20 million hectoliters. In fact, in 2011, the US became the largest wine market in the world. All these countries also export a lot of their wines.

Whereas France and Italy have a high (and declining) per capita consumption, as does Germany, although a bit lower, the US consumes very little per capita (only a bit more than 10 liters), but there are a large number of American consumers. In addition, American wine consumption per capita is growing.

Emerging wine country China, the next country on the list, is different. The majority of wine produced is consumed domestically, although their exports are growing. The Chinese per capita consumption is dismal, but the number of consumers is huge. Furthermore, per capita consumption is on an upward trend. If the per capita consumption increases just by as much as – for example – the Australian per capita consumption increased between 2007 and 2001, China would become the largest wine market in the world, overtaking the US, France, Italy and Germany.

Then follows the UK, another outlier on the list: The UK is a major consumer but produces almost nothing itself. All is imported. This may change in the future.

Spain, Argentina and Russia follow in the 10 to 11 million hectoliters range. Given its high production level and low consumption level, Spain is a major exporter. Argentina, though very present in the global wine market is the opposite picture: Almost 90% of its production is consumed domestically.

At the bottom of the list are 3 countries with an overall market of 4 to 5 million hectoliters: Portugal, with a very high per capita consumption, and Australia and Canada.

The Macro-economics

Within the past 40 years, the shares of the three main regions --- EU, USA and Asia/Oceania --- have converged to around 27 percent, with the US going steady, the EU falling by roughly 10 percentage points and the Asia/Oceania region increasing by this amount. If you do a trend projection, than you end up, say in 40 years, with something like on the left-hand axe, with the only difference that the top line at above 35% is Asia/Oceania and the line in the middle at 15% is Europe.

Picture: Trends in World GDP Shares, from Greg Mankiw's Blog 

There is a dramatic shift in purchasing power going on and will continue to go on, with implications for the wine market.

This is in broad terms the economic set up for the global village in which people consume and produce wine. Often, one distinguishes two groups of wine countries, Old World wine countries and New World Wine countries, but I think one should add a third category, Emerging Wine countries.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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The Forbes List of Rich People and Wine

The Emerging Wine Giant China - Mouton Cadet Bar Opening

Trends in the global wine market: old world, new world, emerging wine countries

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

A Global View: Who Makes and who Drinks Wine?

Wine Consumption by Country: Total and Per Capita

The Wines from Madagascar and 9 Other Exotic Wine Regions and Countries

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

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Winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery in Virginia: One of “40 American Tastemakers under 40” (Wine Enthusiast), USA

May 30, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

≪ Previous: Global Wine Consumption and Production

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jordan Harris,Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

The Wine Enthusiast has just published a list of “40 American Tastemakers under 40”. One of the young stars is Virginia winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara. Here is why the Wine Enthusiast selected him:

Jordan Harris, 32, Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

“While many of Virginia’s vintners are concentrating their efforts on the sure sellers—namely Bordeaux-style blends, Chardonnay and the state’s signature grape, Viognier— Harris champions varieties that are oft overlooked in the Commonwealth. Pushing the boundaries of his blends, Harris is blazing trails in the state with bottlings like his 2010 #SocialSecret, a heavy-hitting hodgepodge of Tannat, Petit Verdot and Pinotage; and his 2010 Honah Lee White, a sapid mix of Viognier, Roussanne and Petit Manseng.”

See also:
An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA
TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont
Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA

Vendredi du Vin #52 : Rare and Forgotten Grapes

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading.

Picture: Vendredi du Vin

This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Jef Heering from Balthazar Magnum. The theme is l'Arche de Noé des Cépages Rares et Oubliés – rare and forgotten grapes. Well, “Harris champions varieties that are oft overlooked in the Commonwealth”.

Jordan Harris and Tarara Winery

Tarara Winery is in Loudoun County, about an hour by car from Washington DC. The beautifully manicured 475 acre farm stretches along the Potomac River. Founded in 1989 by RJ (Whitie) and Margaret Hubert, Tarara is home to some of Virginia’s finest wines. Annual production is 10.000 cases.

Jordan grew up in a little village in Canada, an hour north of Toronto. He went to a Culinary School and became the manager of a fine Italian restaurant. He left the restaurant and went back to school for Oenology and Viticulture at Niagara College. Before moving on to Virginia, he made wine in the Niagara region of Ontario, Canada, where he worked for a few wineries.

Jordan shares the winemaker job with his Canadian compatriot Jonathan Boyle.

In the Vineyard with Jordan Harris

Tarara’s main vineyards are Nevaeh (the estate vineyard managed by Ben Renshaw), Tranquility (in Purcellville, also managed by Ben Renshaw), Honah Lee (in Orange managed by Wayne and Vera Preddy), Mountainview (in Roanoke County managed by Megan and Andy Seibel), and Indian Springs (in the Winchester area managed by Steven Brown).

Pictures: Jordan Harris,Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

Nevaeh is made up of three distinct blocks – The Hill, The Road and The Pond.

The Hill has the deepest soils made up of red clay with limestone deposits cutting through the block. The varieties planted on the Hill and used for Tarara bottlings include: Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Viognier and Petit Manseng.

The Road is the flattest of the sights and furthest from the Potomac River. Varieties planted and used for Tarara bottlings: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.

The Pond is the coolest site of Nevaeh. This block is the best for Tarara’s aromatic whites like Viognier, but is also home to some of Tarara’s most elegant Merlot due to the length of the growing season it can have and small amounts of Grenache and Mourvedre.

Tranquility Vineyard is a seven acre vineyard planted in 1999 by it's owners: Al and Mary Taylor, set in the rolling hills of the Virginia Piedmont. Starting with the 2011 season, the Tranquility Vineyard is being leased entirely by Tarara Winery. Tarara only bottles wine using the Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat.

Honah Lee Vineyard is a very steep South-West facing slope at about 1000 feet elevation. The wines from Honah Lee tend to be the most “exotic” of the wines produced at Tarara with soft structures and lovely rich ripe fruit. Honah Lee grows the following varieties for Tarara: Viognier, Petit Manseng, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Tannat and Pinotage.

In the Cellar with Jordan Harris

Jordan Harris is very passionate about the natural wine concepts. The idea behind the winemaking at Tarara Winery is to take a minimalist approach to allow the vineyards to best express themselves. Jordan believes that fine wines are made in the vineyard. Every time they have to get in the way of the wine, it is less of an expression of that vineyard.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jordan Harris,Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

The Tarara wines are made in a 6000 square foot cave – which we did not visit, but I could look at the cave from the tasting area - to allow nature to give the winemaker consistent cellar temperatures and perfect humidity. This allows the wine to age gracefully in predominately Virginia Oak barrels until the wine is ready for bottling and eventual release.

Jordan Harris: “All of our wines are meant to be a definition of the grapes. The wines are not treated with enzymes, fining agents or any unnecessary additives. The wines will occasionally need slight adjustments with sugar or acid to help the wines keep their balance and to fine tune the alcohol. All of the wines are fermented on indigenous yeasts with limited temperature control. Our belief is that the natural warmer fermentations allow wines to have more structure and depth, while the cooler temperatures are less necessary to preserve the aromatics which are abundant from the vineyard.”

40 Under 40: America's Tastemakers

http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/May-2013/40-Under-40-Americas-Tastemakers/
Published on Apr 30, 2013
By Wine Enthusiast Editors

Ian Brand, 32
Winemaker, Coastview Vineyards, Le P'tit Paysan, Monterey, CA

Bibiana González Rave, 35
Winemaker, Rave Vines & Wines, Santa Rosa, CA

Morgan Twain-Peterson, 32
Winemaker/Proprietor, Bedrock Wine Co., Sonoma, CA

Matt Stamp, MS, 35
Education Director, Guild of Sommeliers, Napa, CA

Erin Sullivan, 33
Wine Director, Acme Fine Wine shop, Napa, CA

Ian Cauble, MS, 32
U.S. Ambassador, Krug Champagne, San Mateo, CA

Jordan Harris, 32
Winemaker and General Manager, Tarara Winery, Leesburg, VA

Carla Rzeszewki, 34
Wine Director, The Breslin, John Dory Oyster Bar and The Spotted Pig, New York City

Ivy Mix, 27
Co-founder, Speed Rack, Brooklyn, NY

Ravi DeRossi, 38
Owner, DeRossi Global, New York City

Greg Engert, 33
Beer Director and Partner, Neighborhood Restaurant Group, Washington, D.C.

Christina Turley, 28
Brand Ambassador and Head of Sales, Turley Wine Cellars, Napa, CA

Jesse Katz, 29
Winemaker, Lancaster Estate and Roth, Healdsburg, CA

Nicole Erny, 28
Master Cicerone, Oakland, CA

Alpana Singh, MS, 36
Proprietor, The Boarding House, Chicago

Andy Lewis, 31
Distiller, Rock Town Distillery, Little Rock, AR

Marko Karakasevic, 39
Master Distiller, Charbay Distillers, St. Helena, CA

Kristy Melton, 32
Winemaker, Clos du Val, Napa, CA

Pascaline Lepeltier, 32
Beverage Director, Rouge Tomate, New York City

“Within a year of taking over the dusty 4,500- bottle cellar of two-star L’Auberge Bretonne in the Pays Nantais, this Angers, France-native was named Best Loire Valley Young Sommelier and Best Sommelier in all of Brittany. In 2008, she took second place in the Best French Sommelier competition, the highest finish ever for a woman. In addition to upping the quality of the wine list at Rouge Tomate NYC, Lepeltier years ago quietly outflanked scores of so-called mixology meccas by transforming the Midtown restaurant’s cocktail menu into one of the first truly season-driven, farm- to-bar affairs.”

Leo Robitschek, 31
Bar Manager, The Bar at the NoMad Hotel, New York City

Jasmine Hirsch, 33
Director of Sales and Marketing, Hirsch Vineyards, Cazadero, CA

Laura Maniec, MS, 33
Owner, Corkbuzz Wine Studio, New York City

Philip Rubin, 28
Director of Sales & Marketing

Phillip Zucchino, 29
Director of Wine Programs, The Wine Feed, Raleigh, NC

Joe Campanale, 29
Beverage Director/Partner L’Artusi, dell’anima, L’Apicio and Anfora, New York City

Matt Taylor, 35
Winemaker/Farmer, Reuling Vineyard and Front Porch Farm, Forestville, CA

Paul Zitarelli, 35
Owner, Full Pull Wines, Seattle

Fred Merwarth, 35
Winemaker and Vineyard Manager, Co-owner
Oskar Bynke, 37

Finger Lakes pioneer Hermann J. Wiemer revolutionized fine winemaking in the region. Since 2007, the infusion of Wiemer’s long-time winemaking assistant, Fred Merwarth, and friend, Oskar Bynke, as co-owners, has elevated not just the winery, but Finger Lakes wines as a category. Merwarth and Bynke met over a decade ago while students at Cornell University. Ironically, while Merwarth studied business and Bynke studied agronomy, it’s Merwarth who is known for his thoughtful winemaking and Bynke for his business savvy and strident ambassadorship.

Nicholas Miller, 33
VP of Sales and Marketing, Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Barbara, CA

Karl Wente, 36
Winemaker, Wente Vineyards, Livermore, CA

Hardy Wallace, 39
Winemaker, blogger Dirty and Rowdy Family Winery, Calistoga, CA

Fernando Beteta, MS, 36
Director of Education and Social Technologies, Tenzing Wine & Spirits, Chicago

Lesley Townsend Duval, 34
Founder and Executive Director, Manhattan Cocktail Classic, New York City

Tyler Baillet, 33
President and Founder, Second Glass, Boston

Jason Littrell, 32
Former president U.S. Bartenders’ Guild, New York Chapter, New York City

Damon Boelte, 31
Radio Host on the The Speakeasy & Bar Director, Prime Meats, Brooklyn

Erin Barbour Scala, 32
Wine Director, Public, New York City

Gavin Chanin, 26
Winemaker, Price Chanin Vineyards and Chanin Wine Co., Sonoma, CA

Scott Beattie, 38
Bar Manager and Partner, Goose & Gander, St. Helena, CA

schiller-wine: Related Posting

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Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

A New Winery in Virginia - The Barns at Hamilton Station Vineyards, USA

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont 

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

June 2, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

≪ Previous: Winemaker Jordan Harris from Tarara Winery in Virginia: One of “40 American Tastemakers under 40” (Wine Enthusiast), USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich

For more on Weingut Weil, see:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further.

The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012. This posting provides an overview of the VDP classification system, including the recent refinements and modifications.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Schloss Johnnisberg. Weingut Kuenstler was founded by my the late Franz Kuenstler. We were both founding members of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim: The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

At the Center of the VDP Classification: Burgundian Approach with the Terroir Principle

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Indeed, for dry wines the pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has been completely eliminated in the VDP classification system.

Following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest.

Before outlining the main elements of the VDP classification system, I briefly describe the recent modifications.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen at Rasika in Washington DC

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

The Refinements Effective Vintage 2012

The two main refinements of the recent modifications are: the move from a 3 tier to a 4 tier system and the renaming of the top tier vineyards.

First: From 3 Tier to 4 Tier System

The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

Second: Renaming the Absolutely Finest Vineyards from Erste Lage into Grosse Lage

The top-level category of vineyards has been renamed. These vineyards used to be called Erste Lage (Premier Cru). The absolutely finest vineyards are called from the vintahe 2012 on Grosse Lage (Grand Gru).

Third: Introduction of a Second Vineyard Category, which is called Erste Lage (Premier Cru)

The VDP has introduced a second vineyard category for the very good classified sites, which are not a Grosse Lage and will call them Erste Lage (Premier Cru).

The VDP Classification System

The VDP classification system with its 4 quality classes can be summarized as follows.

First: VDP.Grosse Lage - The Peak of the Pyramid

VDP.Grosse Lage is the peak of the terroir-based pyramid, equivalent to Grand Cru in the Bourgogne. This are the very best vineyards of Germany.

Maximum yield is at 50hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. The grapes can be fermented in a dry, fruity sweet and noble sweet style.

A dry wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is designated VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and labeled Qualitätswein trocken. A Grosses Gewaechs wine is from 2012 on the ultra premium dry wine made from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Graefenberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewaechs

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Generally, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP. The Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indication for a sweetness range.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Graefenberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Second: VDP.Erste Lage - First Class

VDP.Erste Lage designates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics, equivalent to Premier Cru in the Bourgogne. Erste Lage vineyards provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time.

They are planted with traditional varieties. Maximum yield is at 60hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. 
A dry wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled Qualitätswein trocken. Note that there is no “VDP.Erstes Gewaechs” designation.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling trocken

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedricher Turmberg, Riesling, Spaetlese

Third: VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha.
A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein trocken.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling trocken

A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.
Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, Riesling, Spaetlese

Fourth: VDP.Gutswein – Entry Level

VDP.Gutsweine are the entry-level wines in the VDP's hierarchy.

Generall, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness. Gutsweine, however, are excluded from this general rule as it applies only to the top 3 quality categories. Thus, we might see Gutswein Kabinett trocken and Gutswein Spaetlese trocken in the shelves.

Example: 2012 Weingut Weil, Riesling trocken

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Nik Weis in Berlin: Germany’s VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin - Overview

Key Elements of the VDP Classification System to Remember

First: Use of the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese only for Fruity-Sweet Wines

As a major innovation, the VDP members have dropped the traditional Prädikats for dry wine. Only wines that have a noticeable level of sweetness carry the traditional Prädikats like Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese. Thus, if you see Spaetlese on the label of a VDP member wine, you can be sure that it is a fruity sweet Spaetlese. The label with “Spaetlese trocken” does not exist anymore among the VDP members.

Second: The Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese no longer Indicator of Ripeness at Harvest, but Indicator for Sweetness of the Finished Wines

In the 1971 Classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of ripeness at harvest. Thus, for instance, you can have a fruity sweet Spaetlese and a dry Spaetlese. In the VDP classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of sweetness of the finished wine (and not of the ripeness at harvest).

Third: All Dry Wines up to the Highest Quality Level are Labeled Qualitaetswein trocken

All dry wines up to the highest quality level – the Grosses Gewaechs wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard – are labeled Qualitaetswein (QbA) trocken. A wine made from grapes harvested at Spaetlese level and fully fermented to complete dryness, for example, are marketed as QbA wine. And the level of quality would be indicated by the terroir concept (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage).

This of course does not make it easier for wine consumers to read and understand German wine labels, because the Qualitaetswein denomination has a completely different meaning in the standard classification system. There, it indicates that this wine is an entry-level wine of basic quality. In the VDP classification, Qualitaetswein does not mean anything, as in the VDP system even the ultra-premium dry wines are labeled as a QbA.

Fourth: Grosses Gewaechs – Ultra-premium Dry Wine

The dry counterpart of the fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines of the VDP are the bone dry Grosses Gewaechs wines. These are ‘Grand Cru” wines made from grapes from a Grosse Lage vineyard, harvested at Spaetlese or Auslese level in terms of sugar content and fully fermented so that they become bone-dry. The Grosse Gewaechs label is thought to resemble the Grand Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are bone-dry.

Fifth: No Single Vineyard Wines below Grosse Lage and Erste Lage

In the VDP classification, only Grosse Lage and Erste Lage vineyards appear on the label. If a wine comes from a vineyard that is not in the exclusive circle of Grosse and Erste Lage, the label will not carry any vineyard name. Instead, it will be either a village wine (with just the village and the name of the winery on the label) or an Estate wine (with just the name of the winery on the label).

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem. I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

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Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

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Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

June 3, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

≪ Previous: Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Riesling Rendezvous Grand Tasting

Winemakers from seven countries will converge at Riesling Rendezvous July 14, 2013 in Seattle, giving wine lovers an unprecedented opportunity to explore the finest Rieslings from around the world in one location. Hosted by Chateau Ste. Michelle, of Washington and Dr. Loosen, the famed German Riesling estate, the Riesling Rendezvous Grand Tasting will be held on the picturesque grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville from 5-8 p.m. More than 70 wineries from Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, New Zealand, Slovakia, California, Idaho, Michigan, Oregon, New York, New Jersey and Washington will showcase the great diversity of Riesling from their regions.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and H.O. Spanier, Weingut Battenfeld Spanier

See also:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

“Riesling Rendezvous has grown into the largest event dedicated to Riesling in the United States,” says Ted Baseler, president of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. “We are extremely fortunate to have some of the most renowned Riesling winemakers in the world participate and showcase the great attributes of this noble grape.”

4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State

The Grand Tasting is part of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous, a three-day event July 14-16 designed to bring together leading experts and producers to explore the versatility of Rieslings from around the world, discuss issues and opportunities surrounding the advancement of Riesling, and forge alliances among producers and Riesling enthusiasts. The trade tastings July 15 & 16 will be held at the Bell Harbor International Conference Center in Seattle and feature in-depth blind tastings and seminars led by distinguished speakers and producers, on topics such as Proving That Terroir Matters, The Electric Riesling Acid Test: The Effect of Sweetness & Acidity with Food, Marketing Riesling, Masters of Riesling and Riesling pairing demonstrations with cheese and smoked salmon...and more!

Picture: Clemens Busch and Christian G.E. Schiller at Kloster Eberbach in Germany

For more, see:
Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Chateau Ste. Michelle has been a champion of Riesling for more than 40 years and was among the first to plant Riesling in the state of Washington. Ste. Michelle was catapulted into the national spotlight when its 1972 Johannisberg Riesling won the now-famous blind tasting of nineteen White Rieslings sponsored by the Los Angeles Times. Today, Chateau Ste. Michelle offers up to eight different Riesling styles designed to showcase the versatility of Riesling and the regional styles within Washington’s Columbia Valley, which produces more Riesling than any other American wine region.

Picture: Joseph Leitz

See more:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

More than a decade ago, Chateau Ste. Michelle teamed up with Ernst Loosen to collaborate on Eroica Riesling, an ultra-premium Washington Riesling. Riesling Rendezvous was born out of this special partnership’s commitment to promote the extraordinary nature of Riesling.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil in Kiedrich 

See also:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany and German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Participating Producers

Here is a list of participating producers.

Australia

Frankland Estate
Jim Barry Wines
Mitchell Wines
Pikes

Austria

Domäne Wachau
Emmerich Knoll - Weingut Knoll
Loimer
Markus Huber

Canada

Cave Spring Cellars
Mission Hill Family Estate
Tantalus Vineyards
Thirty Bench Winemakers

Germany

A. Christmann
Battenfeld Spanier
Clemens Busch
Dönnhoff
Dr. Loosen
Fritz Haag
Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan
Leitz
Maximin Grünhaus
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
Robert Weil

New Zealand

Framingham Wines Ltd.
Villa Maria Estate
Slovakia
Elesko Winery

United States

California

Madroña Vineyards
Municipal Winemakers
Trefethen Family Vineyards

Idaho

Ste. Chapelle Winery

Michigan

Black Star Farms
Chateau Grand Traverse
Shady Lane Cellars

New Jersey

Alba Vineyard

New York

Anthony Road Wine Company
Fox Run Vineyards
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard
Red Newt Cellars, Inc.
Sheldrake Point Winery

Oregon

Bridgeview Vineyards
Brooks
Chehalem
Trisaetum
Tunkalilla Vineyard

Washington

Anew
Charles Smith Wines
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Efeste
The Hogue Cellars
Mercer Estates Winery
Pacific Rim
Snoqualmie
Tulip Valley Winery
The Woodhouse Wine Estates

About Chateau Ste. Michelle;

Founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle pioneered vinifera grape growing in Washington state and has been producing classic European varietal wines under the Ste. Michelle label since 1967. The winery combines an ongoing dedication to research with a commitment to classic winemaking traditions. The winery owns 3,500 acres of vineyards in the Columbia Valley of eastern Washington, including Canoe Ridge Estate and Cold Creek, which are LIVE and Salmon Safe certified. Chateau Ste. Michelle enjoys winemaking partnerships with two of the world’s most distinguished vintners. Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen.

About Dr. Loosen Estate 

The Dr. Loosen estate has a 200-year tradition of producing Riesling in Germany’s Mosel region. With his modern world view and his traditional approach to winemaking, Ernst Loosen strives to produce wines that unmistakably express the character of Riesling and of the vineyards where they are grown. Decanter magazine named Ernst Loosen 2005 “Man of the Year” for his perseverance in promoting and producing great Rieslings around the world.

Contacts
Ste. Michelle Wine Estates
Lynda Eller, 425-415-3364
lynda.eller@smwe.com

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

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June 4, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA

≪ Previous: Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christoph Tyrell, Karthäuserhof, in Mainz, Germany. The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley is one of the most prestigious wine estates in Germany. It can look back to a long history. For the past decades, it has been run and owned by Christoph Tyrell in the 6. Generation. A couple of months ago, a press release indicated that Christoph Tyrell, who has no children and who is on his mid-60s, has arranged the succession of the Karthaeuserhof with his cousin Albert Behler. Albert Behler lives in New York City, where he is President and CEO of the Paramount Group, one of the largest privately-owned real estate companies in New York City.

For more, see:
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Der Feinschmecker, the leading German wine and food journal, presented its new ranking of the German wine scene in the Der Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013.

The Feinschmecker Weinguide 2013 includes the 900 top winemakers of Germany; 18 of them are in the top category of 5 F's. The Feinschmecker uses a scale of 1 to 5 Fs.

For previous years see:
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012 
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011
Germany's 15 Top Winemakers - The Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2010

Promotions

2 winemakers were promoted to 5 F's. Nobody was demoted. The 2 promotions are: Weingut Schaefer-Froehlich in the Nahe Vallley and Weingut Schloss Lieser in the Mosel Valley.

18 Top Winemakers

Here are those winemakers that got in the Feinschmecker Weinguide 2012 the maximum number of 5 F's, grouped by wine region.

Ahr

None

Baden

None

Franken

Rudolf Fuerst

Weingut Rudolf Fuerst has the reputation of being a specialist for red wines, Spaetburgunder and Fruehburgunder, which account for 60% of the production; but brilliant dry wines are also produced. 18.6 hectares.

www.weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de

Picture: Paul Fuerst, Weingut Rudolf Fuerst, at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany. The 2009 Weingut Rudolf Fürst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs was ranked #4 overall and was #2 of the German wines at the recent Pinot Noir Tasting in London, where German wines performed very strongly: The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

Horst Sauer

Weingut Horst Sauer is well known for his noble-sweet wines, but the Sauers also produces top dry wines, from Silvaner and Riesling. 16.5 hectares.

www.weingut-horst-sauer.de

Picture: Horst Sauer in Berlin

Hessische Bergstrasse

None

Mittelrhein

None

Mosel

Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag produces a broad range of styles, from dry to lusciously noble sweet wines. Weingut Fritz Haag is owned and run by Oliver Haag. 15.5 hectares.

www.weingut-fritz-haag.de

Kartaeuserhof

A wine estate in the Ruwer valley, with a long tradition and an exciting history, now led by Christoph Tyrell; he has focused on carefully crafted dry wines. 19 hectares. A couple of months ago, a press release indicated that Christoph Tyrell, who has no children and who is on his mid-60s, has arranged the succession of the Karthaeuserhof with his cousin Albert Behler. Albert Behler lives in New York City, where he is President and CEO of the Paramount Group, one of the largest privately-owned real estate companies in New York City.

www.kartaeuserhof.com

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christoph Tyrell in Mainz, Germany

For more, see:
The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Dr. Loosen

Run and owned by one of the most entrepreneurial German winemakers, Ernst Loosen; in addition to producing outstanding wines in Germany, he makes the famous Eroica in Washington State and has started to produce wine, including Pinot Noir, in Oregon.  22 hectares.

www.drloosen.de

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, and Ernst Loosen in Washington DC. One of the highlights of the forthcoming wine tour to Germany by Annette Schiller will be a tasting event with Ernst Loosen at Weingut Dr. Loosen. For more on the tour to Germany, see: Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Egon Mueller - Scharzhof

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar river. Egon Mueller’s fruity sweet and noble sweet, low alcohol wines are a legend. 16 hectares.

www.scharzhof.de

Picture: Egon Mueller at the 1. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau in Germany: 1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Joh. Jos. Pruem

For decades now, one of the really exceptional wine makers in Germany. The aging potential of the Weingut J.J. Pruem wines is legendary. 20 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem. I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

www.jj.pruem.com

Sankt Urbans Hof

A rather young wine estate that was established about 50 years ago. It is now owned and run by the founder’s grandson, Nik Weis. Most of the elegant, fine and light wines are exported. 33 hectares.

www.urbanshof.com

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Nik Weis in Berlin: Germany’s VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin - Overview

C.v. Schubert’sche Schlosskellerei

A rather large wine estate in the Ruwer valley, known for its outstanding dry and fruity sweet Rieslings.. 30 hectares.

www.vonSchubert.de

Schloss Lieser

The village Lieser is located next to Bernkastel-Kues. The village’s landmark is the mighty castle “Schloss Lieser”, built in 1875 and inhabited by the Baron of Schorlemer. In 1904 the winery of Schloss Lieser was constructed. Over the years, several changes of ownership led to a decline in quality. In 1992, Thomas Haag, son of Wilhelm Haag, former proprietor of Weingut Fritz Haag,  became the General Manager, bought the estate in 1997 and brought the estate of Schloss Lieser back to the top of the Riesling estates in Germany. 10 hectares.

www.weingut-schloss-lieser.de

Nahe

Herrmann Doennhoff

A leading producer of Riesling wines, including noble-sweet Rieslings.  Owner and winemaker Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. 25 hectares.

www.doennhoff.com

Picture: Werner Schoenleber and Hellmut Doennhoff in Mainz

Emrich-Schoenleber

Werner Schoenleber has invested a great deal of personal dedication and his promotion to the top rank is definitely warranted. His wines are known to be rich in character and highly esteemed worldwide. 17 hectares.

www.emrich-schoenleber.com

Schaefer-Froehlich

Tim Frohlich took over Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in 1995. He has impressed Gault and Millau with his dry, sweet and noble sweet white wines. 15 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Tim Froehlich, Weingut Schaefer Froehlich, in Mainz

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both dry white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. 40 hectares.

www.weingut-knipser.de

Rheingau

Kuenstler

Gunter Kuesntler’s wine taps the immense potential of the geological and climatic conditions around Hochheim. ¾ of the vineyard qualify for the Erstes Gewaechs (Grand Cru) classification. 35 hectares.

www.weingut-kuenstler.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Schloss Johnnisberg. Weingut Kuenstler was founded by my the late Franz Kuenstler. We were both founding members of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim: The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, in particular fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, which is well presented in the major wine markets in the world. By far the largest winery among the Feinschmecker top wine makers and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Owned by the Japanese Suntory company and Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 80 hectares.

www.weingut-robert-weil.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil. Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany and German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

www.keller-wein.de

Wittmann

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Since 2003 only biodynamic wine growing. A broad portfolio with 60% Riesling and also Silvaner and Spaetburgunder. Known for his outstanding dry wines. 25 hectares.

www.wittmannweingut.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Philipp Wittmann in Mainz

Saale-Unstrut

None

Sachsen

None

Wuerttemberg

None

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012 

Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2011

Germany's 15 Top Winemakers - The Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2010

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When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009 

The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA

June 5, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Burgundy Dinner at Bistro Vivant with Negociant Extraordinaire Jeanne-Marie de Champs, USA

≪ Previous: Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Oyster Guru Jon Rowley in Seattle Tasting Oysters and Oyster Wines, see: West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

The 10 winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition were announced. The Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition is an annual event, now in its 19th year, orchestrated by Oyster Guru Jon Rowley and sponsored by Tayler Shellfish Farms.

The finals for the popular annual dating service for US West Coast wines and oysters took place April 24 in Los Angeles at the WaterGrill, April 25 at Kuletos in San Francisco and April 26 at Anthony’s Homeport at Shilshole Bay in Seattle. 25 top food and wine experts taste each wine with at least one oyster and selected 10 US West Coast wines for the prestigious “Oyster Awards”.

Jon Rawley explained to me how the contest works when I met him some time ago in Seattle: “We're not judging the wines on their own merits, but on how the wine's flavor goes with oysters. The ideal oyster wine is crisp, clean, and gets out of the way to let the taste of the next oyster to come through. The wines come in batches of five labeled A-T, swaddled in shiny mylar bags to protect their identity. You thoughtfully eat an oyster, chewing carefully, then take a sip of the wine and see how the two jive. Like speed dating, you go with your first impression, take notes on the comment sheet if you like, give the wine a score, and move on. At the end, you rank your top 10 wines and the amalgamated scores from the three cities lead to the winners.”

For previous Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competitions, see:
The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines
The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition

Listed alphabetically:

**Cedargreen Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (WA)
**Chateau Ste. Michele 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (WA)
**Dry Creek 2012 Dry Chenin Blanc (CA)
**Geyser Peak 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
**Kunde 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
*Three Pears 2012 Pinot Grigio (CA)
Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling (CA)
Vinoce 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (CA)
*Willamette Valley 2011 Pinot Grigio (OR)

*Prior Oyster Award
**Multiple Prior Oyster Awards

4 Types of Oysters

The judges consumed about 1200 Kumamoto oysters. The Kumamoto belongs to the family of Pacific oysters. In fact, it is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. But oysters are found all over the world. I recently had delicious oysters in South Africa and Madagascar, which are typically not on the radar of the mainstream oyster eater.

I distinguish 4 types of oysters:

The Pacific

Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there. Gone are the days of the Belon in Paris. The Pacific oysters are marketed under a variety of names, often denoting their growing area. The Kumamoto is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. I tend to think of a Pacific oyster as a creamy oyster, with a mineral note.

The Olympia

The Olympia is a very small oyster seldom exceeding 2 inches. For comparison, in Massachusetts, oysters must be a minimum of 3 inches to be sold. Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over. Olympias are hard to find today as they grow very slowly and are difficult to transport. They hold very little liquid and dry out quickly. The Olympia has a very full flavor with a distinct aftertaste.

The Atlantic

Another American native, there are many varieties of Atlantic oysters, such as the Malpeque from Prince Edward Island in Canada and the Blue Point from Long Island in New York State. Bluepoints were originally named for Blue Point, Long Island but now the term is generally applied to any Atlantic oyster two four inches long. These two are now the most common restaurant oysters in the US. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

The Belon

The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black See. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide. The Flats from the Belon river in Brittany were at some point the connoisseur’s top choice and the name was soon adopted by all oyster growers, a bit like the Blue Points from Long Island. The Belon oyster grows in limited quantity in Maine on the rocks of the Damariscotta river bed.

For more on the different kinds of oysters, see:
Oysters and Wine

Wine that Goes with Oysters

Not every wine goes with oysters - a vibrant combination of minerals, sweetness and the sea. In general, first, I always try to go local. Second, the best oyster wines are dry, crisp, clean-finishing white wines, both sparkling and still. I avoid red wines and the sweeter style German Rieslings, although in South Africa I had a Cabernet Sauvignon with my oysters on the half shell, as suggested.

See more:
Oysters and Wine

Jon Rowley

The 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition was orchestrated by Jon Rowley again. Jon is a fascinating and entertaining man. I enjoyed very much an afternoon with him and my wife Annette in the summer of 2011 in Seattle. I felt very honored to spend time with a man who was inducted into the prestigious “Who’s Who of Cooking in America” in 1987.

Before my trip to the US West Coast, I had not heard much about Jon Rowley. But in preparing for the trip, I quickly learned that Jon had a major impact on the flavor and quality of fish, shellfish, fruits and vegetables that are served in the North-West of the US. All his life, he has fought to get better-quality food on the tables of restaurants and households in this part of the world.

Pictures: Jon Rowley, Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, Christian G.E.Schiller and Elliot’s Oyster House Chef Robert Spaulding

"I am fascinated by oysters" Jon said over lunch. “Today's availability of oysters was unimaginable here say 25 years ago. Almost no oysters were served on their own half shells in Seattle. Instead, oysters were eaten in cocktails, shucked and swathed in red sauce laced with so much horseradish that any tang of the sea was largely conjectural”. This has changed completely as I could witness at Elliot’s Oyster House, partly thanks to Jon’s efforts. He has organized restaurant oyster programs and promotions.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena

In the Glass: 2007 Rheinhessen with Oysters at the Ten Bells in the Lower East Side in Manhattan

New Hampshire, US: Cheese ... Lobster and Oysters ... and Wine!

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Oysters and Wine

The Best Wines for US West Coast and Other Oysters

West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's World of Seafood

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon with South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Oysters - and Wine - at Zuni Café in San Francisco, USA

The 2012 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition - 10 Oyster Wines

Tasting Virginia Chesapeake Bay Oysters with Oyster Producer Travis Craxton at the Rappahannock River, USA

Rappahannock Oyster Bar at Union Station– Virginia Oysters in Washington DC, USA

Burgundy Dinner at Bistro Vivant with Negociant Extraordinaire Jeanne-Marie de Champs, USA

June 6, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

≪ Previous: The 10 Winners of the 2013 Pacific Coast Oyster Wine Competition, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Negociant in Beaune, Bourgogne at Bistro Vivant, McLean, Virginia 

Jeanne-Marie de Champs, Negociant in Beaune, Bourgogne was in town (Washington DC area) and I had the chance and the pleasure to meet her at a dinner at Bistro Vivant in McLean, Virginia. It was a delightful evening. We enjoyed a delicious five-course menu, prepared by Chef de Cuisine Ed Hardy, paired with five Burgundy releases from Jeanne-Marie de Champs’ Domaines et Saveurs.

Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Domaines et Saveurs

During the past decades Jeanne-Marie de Champs has risen from obscurity to stardom among Burgundy aficionados.  Seeing her name on the back of a bottle guarantees quality.

Before 1978, Jeanne-Marie de Champs had no relation to the wine trade and no particular interest in wine aside from the fact that her family owned a small parcel of vines in Sancerre. She lived in Paris and worked successfully in marketing. Jeanne-Marie de Champs was drawn into wine only as a consequence of marriage to a Bourgogne Negociant in 1978.

Pictures: Jake McGuire, Editor and Publisher of DC Style Report, with Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Aykan Demiroglu, Co-owner of Bistro Vivant

Initially, she established a little business within her husband's company in Beaune and continued to work part-time in Paris. On the strength of Jeanne-Marie's taste for quality and sharp eye for growers on the rise, her little department soon became a major undertaking and in 1994 she established it as an independent company: Domaines et Saveurs, apart from her husband's business. Under French law, she is a "negociant en chambre," meaning that, unlike brokers, she buys wines from her producers and, unlike ordinary negociants, she buys finished wines rather than lots to blend herself. Today, Jeanne-Marie represents more than 70 winemakers, including 3 producers from Bordeaux and a Champagne producer.

Pictures: At the Dinner

Jeanne-Marie: “As a negociant I look for several aspects: First, I look for good farmers – my winemakers have to be good farmers. Second, I look for winemakers who use natural yeast and do not rush the wine. Third, I look for non-fined, not filtered wines.”

Bistro Vivant

It was a lovely evening with great wines and food, all well-orchestrated by Bistro Vivant Co-Owner Aykan Demiroglu and General Manager Shannon Paretzky. Bistro Vivant is Bistro/Brasserie in the heart of McLean in the greater Washington DC area.

Picture: Aykan Demiroglu, Co-owner of Bistro Vivant and Chef de Cuisine Ed Hardy

Previous winemaker dinner at Bistro Vivant:
Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA

The Vineyard

The event was initiated by The Vineyard Wine Store in McLean. The prices below are The Vineyard prices for single bottles.

Picture: Jeanne-Marie de Champs and Louis Cinelli, General Manager, The Vineyard Wine Store in McLean

Wining and Dining

Picture: 5 Wines

Duck Breast, Frisee Salad
Early Virginia Peaches

Chateau de Raousset Chiroubles 2011 $22.90

Chateau de Raousset is situated in the commune of Chiroubles within the Beaujolais region of Burgundy. The chateau itself is to be found between the villages of Fleurie and Morgon, with a vineyard area of 35 hectares in 3 different appellations - Chiroubles, Fleurie and Morgon.

The Wine Enthusiast: Showing a mineral-driven structure and firm tannins, this is a Beaujolais that needs to age. Rich and juicy, its perfumed red fruits currently cut through dry tannins. 88 Points

Smoked & Grilled Octopus
Romesco Sauce and Pickled Ramps

Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils  Bourgogne Aligoté 2011 $18.99

Aligoté is the second most popular white grape variety in Burgundy after Chardonnay, though it lies a long way behind in terms of planted area, with 1,700 hectares against 12,800 hectares. Typically, Aligoté is planted in the poorer vineyard sites at the tops and bottoms of the slopes. The grape ripens early with moderate yields and produces wines high in acidity that can be drunk young. Traditionally, the cocktail kir is made by adding cassis to an Aligoté white wine.

Based in the village of Pernand Vergelesses, Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils can trace its history back as far as 1765. The Estate comprises 18 hectares of vines in the villages of Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny les Beaune, Aloxe Corton and Beaune. Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils is now under the control of Vincent Rapet and his wife Sylvette, who manage the estate with a keen eye to nature.

Alaskan Halibut
Spring Morels

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Encegnieres 2011 $61.99

Marc and Michèle Colin started Domaine Marc Colin in the late 1970s, with vineyards from the Colin and Ponavoy families. Today, Caroline, Joseph and Damien, three of their children, lead the domain which extends over 19 hectares in the villages of Saint-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Santenay.  Their eldest child, Pierre-Yves, was involved until 2005, but has taken out his share of the vineyards to make his own wine.

The reds come from St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. But Domaine Marc Colin is much better known for its white wines. These include no less than eight bottlings of premier cru St-Aubin plus Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet and their associated grands crus.

Joseph takes the lead in the vineyards. Joseph farms as organically as possible but refuses to be hamstrung by dogmatically following any viticulture or winemaking philosophy. He wants the wine to speak of the vineyards from which they come.  Harvesting is manual. Damien takes the lead in the cellar. He uses only wild yeast. 50% of the production is exported to over twenty countries.

The Lieu Dit “Les Encegnieres” is a Cardonnay vineyard planted on argilo calcaire soil. The wine is aged in French oak for 10 months before slight filtration and bottling. The vineyard is located just below Batard Montrachet on the border with Puligny.

This is a rich wine, elegant with floral notes.

Suckling Pig Roulade
Pommes Duchesses, New Basil Pistou

Domaine René LeClerc Bourgogne Rouge 2009 $32.99

Domaine René LeClerc consists of 12 hectares in and around Gevrey-Chambertin, producing Gevrey-Chambertin Village, Clos Prieur, Lavaux St. Jacques 1er Cru, Champeau 1er Cru, Combeaux Moines 1er Cru, a small amount of Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru and a Bourgogne Rouge, which we tasted. In recent years, René Leclerc has gradually passed on the winemaking and management of the domaine to his son, François. A traditionalist like his father, François also brings personal experience from work in Oregon and his own vision of what his vineyards can achieve. The 15 hectares domaine is known for its old vines – 50-80 years average age – and a lush, fruity style of wine. Only small amounts of new oak are used; a maximum of 20-25% for most wines, and 50% for the Grand Cru, so that the emphasis remains on the expression of terroir through old vines.

Burghound 84-86 Points: A perfumed and very pinot nose displays only traces of warm earth that also characterize the round, supple, forward and already accessible flavors that culminate in an attractively delicious and mildly rustic if not overly complex finish.

Vivant Cheese Plate

Domaine René LeClerc Gevrey Chambertin 2010 $49.99

Charming notes of red raspberries and bing cherries, delicate flavors are supported by fittingly soft, fine-grained tannins.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of Domaine de la Solitude, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Celebrating Paso Robles Wines and Classic American Cuisine - Winemaker Dinner at Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern in Washington DC with 4 Paso Robles Winemakers, USA

Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

2010 Chateauneuf du Pape - First Wine Blogger Tasting at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Drinking the Wines of Stephane Derenoncourt at Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and at Boxwood Vineyard in Virginia, USA

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA 

Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

June 9, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA

≪ Previous: Burgundy Dinner at Bistro Vivant with Negociant Extraordinaire Jeanne-Marie de Champs, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with German Star Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen

I was the featured guest on Wednesday, June 5th from 11 am -12 N CST on #SommChat to talk about German Riesling. #SommChat is a weekly 1 hour twitter chat with a featured guest. Recent guests include:

Winemaker Anne Trimbach @trimbach
Wine Writer Fiona Beckett @winematcher
New York Times Wine Writer Eric Asimov @ericasimov
New York Austrian Sommelier Aldo Sohm @aldosohm
Bonny Doon Owner Randall Grahm @randallgrahm
Sommelier Matt Reiser @mattreiser

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Picture: #SommChat

Twitter Chat 

Here is the twitter chat, starting with the last tweet.

1. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll14m

   @kerrynewberry it was a good #SommChat glad you can read up on it!

   View conversation
2. Garret Nagle‏@garretwnagle23m

   Watched @JamesSuckling 's new film on #Barolo#Cannubi last night. Where was the discussion about winemaking style and terroir? :( #SommChat

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3. Thomas Perez‏@TperezWine24m

   “@keepercoll: @TperezWine we will miss you today - see you next week on #SommChat for sure! Happy# WW

   View conversation
4. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll39m

   @UchiAustin told us last nite they were participating in @SummerRiesling! Look fwd 2 hearing abt more restos joining in on the fun #SommChat

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5. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll41m

   Craving more #German#wine after our #SommChat? Stay tuned 4 more during @SummerRiesling! #SoR2013

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6. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll41m

   @ormiga : @Schillerwein was great on #SommChat glad you got some of it!

   View conversation
7. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll42m

   We luv’d having @SchillerWein and learning abt #German#wine. Perfect way 2 start #SummerofRiesling! #SommChat

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8. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll42m

   @yumivore glad #SommChat is on your radar and look forward to seeing you more!

   View conversation
9. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll42m

   Sry abt early exit on 2day’s #SommChat. Twitter glitch made 4 #technicaldifficulties. THX 4 tuning in!

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10. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein44m

    schiller-wine: Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013 http://bit.ly/XmurjE #sommchat

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11. 
    

    KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll45m

    enjoyed the #SomMChat with all of you too! @Foundationspr@hkremer@schillerwein@alawine

    View conversation
12. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr47m

    Great #SommChat today everyone, thank you for including me! @hkremer@schillerwein@alawine@keepercoll

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13. winerist‏@TheWinerist53m

    @dianaisac@GermanWineUSA@alawine@keepercoll trending! #sommchat

    View conversation
14. yumivore‏@yumivore1h

    @keepercoll#SommChat is on my radar, hope to catch up on the great notes

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15. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with E. Loosen @drloosenwines at MacArthurBeverages http://bit.ly/iNSF2b #sommchat@MacBeverage

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16. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @winecompass@drloosenwines Can you recommend any DC area stores to purchase? #sommchat Phil Bernstein at @MacBeverage is top.

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17. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines1h

    @Schillerwein@keepercoll Thanks Christian! Cheers, everyone! #SommChat

    View conversation
18. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @atxfoodnews@splitbin@summerriesling@drewbie_g Learned a lot about #German#Wines& #Riesling on #SommChat today. Thank you.

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19. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines1h

    @winecompass@Schillerweinhttp://www.bassins.com  Wash DC wine store that recently hosted Ernst Loosen. #SommChat

    View conversation
20. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @Schillerwein will do! thank you! @keepercoll#sommchat

    View conversation
21. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    On behalf of @keepercoll and @schillerwein I would like to thank all participants in the #sommchat Have a glass of '#Riesling from Germany!

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22. hkremer‏@hkremer1h

    Thank you! @schillerwein@foundationspr@alawine Gr8 Q&A today on #SommChat@keepercoll

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23. Mark V. Fusco, CSW‏@1337wine1h

    thank you @schillerwein for joining us in #sommchat today

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24. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @foundationspr@tyleronwine@winecompass@mauricescru Learned a lot about #German#Wines& #Riesling on #SommChat today. Thank you.

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25. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @drloosenwines thanks for the notes #sommchat

    View conversation
26. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @schillerwein@drloosenwines@keepercoll@hkremer Learned a lot about #German#Wines& #Riesling on #SommChat today. Thank you.

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27. WineCompass‏@winecompass1h

    @schillerwein@drloosenwines Can you recommend any DC area stores to purchase #german#riesling#sommchat

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28. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    Prost! #Riesling#sommchat

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29. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines1h

    #SommChat Someone asked about the 2013 vintage. Too soon to tell, but here are some of our harvest notes. (cont) http://tl.gd/n_1rklqan 

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30. Eric Bolton‏@vinobolton1h

    @Foundationspr@Schillerwein@gatherwinebar@drewbie_g try Rancho Sisquoc - Granny Smith apples... mmm! #sommchat

    View conversation
31. Wines of Germany US‏@GermanWineUSA1h

    Super cool! RT @alawine: @keepercoll#SommChat is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1

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32. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    We can continue on my facebook page "Drinking German Wine in America" http://on.fb.me/16ZsKOz #sommchat

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33. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    get any last qs for @schillerwein in now on #SommChat - starting the wrapup soon!

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34. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @KeeperColl International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers #SommChat world wide association

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35. Mark V. Fusco, CSW‏@1337wine1h

    @Schillerwein ahhh, now i understand the original question :) #sommchat

    View conversation
36. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @1337wine isn't spatburgunder = pinot noir? am I missing something here? Yes #sommchat But Germans should use Pinot Noir on the label

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37. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @Schillerwein A @winecompass in addition to #flxwine: Washington State: Eroica, Pacific Rim Poet's Leap #sommchat@RieslingRules TY, GTK

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38. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    Q. @Schillerwein U are a member of the FIJEV. Tell us more about this. #SommChat

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39. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @KeeperColl Daily, global, very broad, but sometimes very personal, with focus on #Germany, #Bordeaux#SommChat

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40. Mark V. Fusco, CSW‏@1337wine1h

    isn't spatburgunder = pinot noir? am I missing something here? @Schillerwein#sommchat

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41. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @mattreiser as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think #germany shld abandon #spatbergunder for #pinot noir? #sommchat Answer: Yes!!

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42. winerist‏@TheWinerist1h

    Sounds like fun! RT @alawine I'm getting schooled in #German#Wines& #Riesling right now on #SommChat Join in.

    View conversation
43. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    THX KEN! RT @alawine: @keepercoll#SommChat is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1

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44. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    Q. @Schillerwein How does UR #wine blog differ from other #wine blogs out there that U have read? #SommChat

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45. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    RT @mattreiser: @schillerwein as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think #germany shld abandon #spatbergunder for #pinot noir? #sommchat

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46. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @winecompass in addition to #flxwine: Washington State: Eroica, Pacific Rim Poet's Leap #sommchat@RieslingRules

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47. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @keepercoll ha, best idea I've heard all day! #SommChat

    View conversation
48. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    @Vino101net yes it is and glad you are lurking on #SommChat

    View conversation
49. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @drloosenwines climate change will benefit German Riesling in the coming years #SommChat but less so over the medium and long term

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50. 
    

    Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @keepercoll#SommChat is already at the top of my twitter trends list ...anyone else seeing this? ...trending #1

    View conversation
51. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine1h

    @petervetsch That may be true, my friend, but I still need to try one -- I have a need to explore ;) #sommchat

    View conversation
52. WineCompass‏@winecompass1h

    @Schillerwein Care to suggest quality domestic #riesling regions outside of #flxwine#sommchat

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53. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @KeeperColl Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is read, incl top level http://bit.ly/s7EfPA #SommChat

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54. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    @alawine think we can all learn best by good consumption :( #SomMChat

    View conversation
55. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @WineRackCo and good thing too, this is an area I want to learn more about #SommChat

    View conversation
56. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    @mattreiser gr8 to see you on #SommChat - have missed you #Happy WW

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57. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @drloosenwines '13 #german vintage thus far please? #SommChat good. But lots of rain recently and some vineyards under water

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58. Matt Reiser‏@mattreiser1h

    @schillerwein as the 2nd lrgst pn producer do u think #germany shld abandon #spatbergunder for #pinot noir? #sommchat

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59. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines1h

    @Schillerwein Any thoughts on what climate change will do to German Riesling in the coming years? #SommChat

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60. WineRacks.com‏@WineRackCo1h

    @alawine Definitely some great information today! #SommChat

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61. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    Q. @Schillerwein We R hearing more abt #Pinot Noir #wines in #Germany. Tell us UR thoughts on this. #SommChat

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62. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    @drloosenwines Tell us abt the '13 #german vintage thus far please? #SommChat

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63. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @KeeperColl Know all regions Will go to #Mosel#Rheinhessen Pfalz Nahe in August see: http://bit.ly/XmurjE #SommChat@drloosenwines

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64. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    loving all of the #German#wine Questions - keep them coming on #SommChat

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65. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    Q. @Schillerwein What is one #wine region that U have not been to that U would like to visit? #SommChat

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66. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @keepercoll Lived 10 yrs in Mainz in/close to: Mosel Rheinhessen Rheingau Nahe + like. Drink more dry than fruity-sweet #SommChat

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67. 
    

    Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    I'm getting schooled in #German#Wines& #Riesling right now on #SommChat Join in.

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68. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    @lwa235 we are too - hope you can next week! Happy #WW#SommChat

    View conversation
69. Linda Adams‏@lwa2351h

    @keepercoll so bummed to miss you today. Cheers! #sommchat

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70. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @TylerOnWine Has anyone had a Spatlese Auslese that was furmented fully dry? #sommchat All GG are either Spatlese or Auslese

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71. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine1h

    @drloosenwines: Want to learn more? Try our #Riesling Enlightenment Series. http://loosenbrosusa.com/riesling.asp #SommChat< Thank you

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72. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    MT @petervetsch: @TylerOnWine@Schillerwein Agreed, but top ones stand out due 2 their focus, precision & vineyard character. #SommChat

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73. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    Q. @Schillerwein What R some of UR favorite type of #German#Riesling#Wines and why? #SommChat

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74. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll1h

    GR8 RT @ATXFoodnews: I'm switching gears from thinking about cocktails to wine, thanks to @keepercoll and @Schillerwein#SommChat. #Riesling

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75. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein1h

    A. @keepercoll dry - fresh, crisp, minerality; fruity-sweet - good acidity-sweetness balance, noble-rot #sommchat

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76. Kay Marley-Dilworth‏@ATXFoodnews1h

    I'm switching gears from thinking about cocktails to wine, thanks to @keepercoll and @Schillerwein#SommChat. #Riesling

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77. Countess Rose Perry‏@VinoCaPisco2h

    MT @Schillerwein: A. @winecompass#Alsace tend to be higher in alc. and lower remaining sugar. #sommchat” 🍷Can't chat but will read later!🍷

    View conversation
78. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    #whynot RT @Splitbin: @gernanwinesusa @SummerRiesling@MauricesCru Riesling all summer? I think I can deal with that! ;) #sommchat

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79. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

    Want to learn more? Try our #Riesling Enlightenment Series. http://loosenbrosusa.com/riesling.asp #SommChat

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80. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

    Cheers Ken! @alawine#SommChat

    View conversation
81. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

    A @Foundationspr: A good Sylvaner: from Franken region, or Krueger-Rumpf from Nahe #sommchat

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82. Splitbin‏@Splitbin2h

    @keepercoll @gernanwinesusa @SummerRiesling@MauricesCru Riesling all summer? I think I can deal with that! ;) #sommchat

    View conversation
83. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

    Balance of sweetness and acidity, IMO “@keepercoll: Q. @Schillerwein What do you look for most in a good #German#Riesling#Wine? #SommChat”

    View conversation
84. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine2h

    @TylerOnWine: German #wine reading for after the show >> http://tylerphilp.com/TheRieslingDoctor.htm …#SommChat TY look forward to it

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85. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    RT @domewine: @Foundationspr i can suggest you a great Italian one fro Alto Adige: #Kofererhof...trust me :-) @drewbie_g#SommChat

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86. SummerRiesling‏@SummerRiesling2h

    @keepercoll@MauricesCru#ROCKONANDDRINKRIESLING#SoR2013#sommchat

    View conversation
87. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    Q. @Schillerwein What do you look for most in a good #German#Riesling#Wine? #Winelover#SommChat

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88. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

    Has anyone had a Spatlese or Auslese that was furmented fully dry? I'm still searching... #sommchat

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89. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

    @keepercoll@i_on_food_drink@davemcneilly Eroica is Ernst Loosen's joint venture w/ @SteMichelle#SommChat

    View conversation
90. Kay Marley-Dilworth‏@ATXFoodnews2h

    RT @schillerwein: A. @drloosenwines#sommchat Both dry GG wines and fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines have great aging potential.I...

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91. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    guess we love #Riesling all yr long!! @gernanwinesusa RT @SummerRiesling: @MauricesCru begins first day of Summer! #sommchat#acidhoundsgu

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92. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine2h

    @Foundationspr good point @hkremer@Schillerwein#sommchat

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93. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

    A. @drloosenwines#sommchat Both dry GG wines and fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines have great aging potential.I have 1971 and 1976

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94. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    MT @i_on_food_drink: @drloosenwines Eroica project fr WA is wonderful ex. of new world #Riesling -love that wine cc @davemcneilly#SommChat

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95. Drew Gourdie‏@drewbie_g2h

    Hey @AndreaEby, do you carry either Sylvaner or Grauburgunder from Germany? #SommChat#MustFindImmediately

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96. SummerRiesling‏@SummerRiesling2h

    @MauricesCru begins first day of Summer! #sommchat#acidhounds

    View conversation
97. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

    German #wine reading for after the show >> http://tylerphilp.com/TheRieslingDoctor.htm …#SommChat

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98. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

    @alawine gr8 to see you on #SommChat - have you had your coffee for the day?

    View conversation
99. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

    @TylerOnWine@Schillerwein Don't forget Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz. #SommChat

    View conversation
100. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @Foundationspr: A good Sylvaner is fab for summer; any particular brands in the U.S. you can suggest? @Schillerwein@drewbie_g#sommchat

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101. Ken Alawine Waggoner‏@alawine2h

     @TylerOnWine: Excellent! Germany's #wine regions to watch for ... “@Schillerwein: A: Baden, Franken, Saale-Unstrut #SommChat” < thanks

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102. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @keepercoll 1971 1976 2009 @drloosenwines#SommChat

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103. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

     Excellent! Germany's #wine regions to watch for ... “@Schillerwein: @TylerOnWine A: Baden, Franken, Saale-Unstrut #SommChat”

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104. HVWineFest‏@HVWineFest2h

     @Foundationspr@Schillerwein@drewbie_g The Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley regions of NY both have great Rieslings #sommchat

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105. WineCompass‏@winecompass2h

     @keepercoll@drloosenwines That would be me :) #sommchat

     View conversation
106. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @winecompass#Alsace tend to be higher in alc. and lower remaining sugar, but changing #sommchat

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107. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @drloosenwines: Christian, can you talk about cellaring Rieslings. Many people don't realize their aging potential. #SommChat#Riesling

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108. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     @MauricesCru yes it has and we are excited for @summerriesling#Summerofriesling#SommChat

     View conversation
109. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     A good Sylvaner is fab for summer; any particular brands in the U.S. you can suggest? @Schillerwein@drewbie_g#sommchat

     View conversation
110. maurice dimarino‏@MauricesCru2h

     check it out #acidhounds @schillererwein is on #SommChat talking about #Riesling. Has #SoR2013 started already?! @SummerRiesling

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111. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A @TylerOnWine Baden, Franken, Saale-Unstrut #SommChat

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112. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @drloosenwines: @keepercoll@schillerwein Any favorite types (e.g. spatlese)/vintages for cellaring? #SommChat

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113. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     For me it's about fruitiness balanced w/bright, soaring acidity that is true foundation of German #Riesling@hkremer@Schillerwein#SommChat

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114. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @drewbie_g Pinot Noir Sylvaner Grauburgunder #SommChat

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115. WineCompass‏@winecompass2h

     @schillererwein Do you also cover #riesling from Alsace and what differences between Alsace and Germany regions Mosel or Rhine #sommchat

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116. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     @TperezWine we will miss you today - see you next week on #SommChat

     View conversation
117. hkremer‏@hkremer2h

     @Foundationspr thanks for that! I haven't developed a taste for #riesling yet & love to find wines to pair with food @Schillerwein#sommchat

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118. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

     @Schillerwein What is the most underrated German wine producing region right now? #SommChat

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119. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     @drloosenwines we love older #German wines - they age beautifully and are lovely with so many foods #SommChat

     View conversation
120. Thomas Perez‏@TperezWine2h

     Sorry to missed #sommchat today Cheers to all of you! @keepercoll@TylerOnWine@exceptionalfood@ChampagneSomm@vinojefftaylor@OttVinebar

     View conversation
121. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @KeeperColl First I was economics prof at Uni Mainz (Germany). Then economist at #IMF in WashDC (30 years). very diff #SommChat

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122. Drew Gourdie‏@drewbie_g2h

     Excited to hear from @Schillerwein today with @keepercoll! #SommChat#WineWednesday

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123. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

     Glad to hear -- “@Schillerwein: A. Tyler, Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is red, incl top level #SommChat”

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124. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     RT @Schillerwein: A. @TylerOnWine Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is red, incl top level #sommchat

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125. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

     Christian, can you talk about cellaring Rieslings. Many people don't realize their aging potential. #SommChat#Riesling

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126. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @demilove: @keepercoll how does vintage variation affect German Rieslings? #SommChat less than in other regions such as #Bordeaux

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127. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     Many people start drinking wine w/a fruity, light Riesling; later circle back bcause it's so food friendly @hkremer@Schillerwein#sommchat

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128. Drew Gourdie‏@drewbie_g2h

     Aside from #riesling, what other grape varieties from Germany get you excited @Schillerwein? CC: @keepercoll#SommChat#WineWednesday

     View conversation
129. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Q. @Schillerwein Prior to blogging about #wine what were U doing and how was it different than what U do now? #SommChat

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130. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @TylerOnWine Yes, there is a red wine boom. 1/3 of German wine production is read, incl top level http://bit.ly/s7EfPA #SommChat

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131. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @demilove: @keepercoll how does vintage variation affect German Rieslings? #SommChat

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132. Anthony Giglio‏@WineWiseGuy2h

     Sorry to miss #sommchat@keepercoll@Schillerwein but tasting 10ys of @CraggyRange w Steve Smith #MW@MasterSommUS@Kobrand_Wine@BarBoulud

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133. hkremer‏@hkremer2h

     @Schillerwein exactly what I thought! :) My brother sold wine and loved #riesling, and talked about others' misperceptions #sommchat

     View conversation
134. Splitbin‏@Splitbin2h

     @Schillerwein@hkremer@keepercoll Love German Riesling and you make a great point! One of our favs: http://splitbin.com/products/2010-bernhard-eifel-riesling …#sommchat

     View conversation
135. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @winecompass#summerofriesling#wine could be crisp and dry but also fruty-sweet, light #sommchat

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136. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

     @Schillerwein Do you see Spätburgunder (Ger. Pinot) making a bigger splash on the international market in the future? #SommChat

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137. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     I did some work w/EximBank and IMF, EBRD during 90's, and transitioned into wines/spirits. Naturally :) @Schillerwein#sommchat

     View conversation
138. Monika Elling‏@Foundationspr2h

     Hello Tamara, had great time working w/Ernie+gang @ Lauber Imports/SWS! i'm a huge fan, of wines+man @drloosenwines#sommchat

     View conversation
139. Douglas Trapasso‏@demilove2h

     @keepercoll - Happy wednesday and happy #SommChat !

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140. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @hkremer#SommChat that German #Riesling is always fruity-sweet @keepercoll Majority of German Reisling is bone dry

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141. WineCompass‏@winecompass2h

     @Schillerwein Christian, what should we expect from a #summerofriesling#wine#sommchat

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142. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @hkremer: @Schillerwein what do you think is the largest misconception of German #riesling wine? #sommchat

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143. WineRacks.com‏@WineRackCo2h

     @keepercoll@LisaAdamsWalter@Foundationspr@JeremySBlock@FoodWineFashion@BevMedia@drewbie_g Looking forward to another great #SommChat!

     View conversation
144. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     A. @KeeperColl I have always been a wine lover. Wine blogging became new “job” after retirement from #IMF in 2009 #SommChat

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145. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     gr8 2 c u HERE! RT @drloosenwines: Hi everyone! Tamara Greenleaf here, representing the Dr. Loosen gang. #SommChat

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146. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

     Hi everyone! Tamara Greenleaf here, representing the Dr. Loosen gang. #SommChat

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147. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     gr8 to see you - look fwd to your questions RT @TylerOnWine: Cheers from Calgary @keepercoll and @Schillerwein#Sommchat

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148. hkremer‏@hkremer2h

     @Schillerwein what do you think is the largest misconception of German #riesling wine? #sommchat

     View conversation
149. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Q. @Schillerwein What made U want to start writing and blogging about #German#wine? #SommChat

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150. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     gr8 to see you back RT @1337wine: a wednesday off and I'm here at #sommchat

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151. Mark V. Fusco, CSW‏@1337wine2h

     a wednesday off and I'm here at #sommchat

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152. Tyler Philp‏@TylerOnWine2h

     Cheers from Calgary @keepercoll and @Schillerwein#Sommchat

     View conversation
153. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     RT @hkremer: @keepercoll@Schillerwein Hello! Looking forward to your tweets. #SOmmChat

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154. Christian Schiller‏@Schillerwein2h

     I am happy to be at #SommChat and talk with you about German #Riesling@keepercoll

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155. Kay Marley-Dilworth‏@ATXFoodnews2h

     @keepercoll@Schillerwein Good morning! #SommChat

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156. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Let's start talking #wine with #German#wine blogger Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein#WineWednesday#SommChat

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157. Judia Black‏@enjoielife2h

     @keepercoll I won't be able to join you at #sommchat today. Too much work to catch up on. Look forward to reviewing the archives. Have fun!

     View conversation
158. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     W/so many participants lots of gr8 Q's R asked! Even if u dont ask 1, S/O 2 @keepercoll& @Schillerwein let us know u R here! #SommChat#WW

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159. Dr. Loosen Wines‏@drloosenwines2h

     RT @keepercoll: Welcome 2 #SommChat every1! Tell UR friends 2 join us 2 hear #German#wine blogger Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein#WW

     View conversation
160. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     As we ask @Schillerwein our Qs, you can ask him Ur Qs as well! He'll do his best to answer all Qs in the order they come #SommChat#WW

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161. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Don't forget that EVERY tweet during this chat should include the #SommChat hashtag in order for everyone to see it! #WineWednesday

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162. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     We're abt ready 2 dive in w/questions, so shout out to Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein to say hello & so he knows you're here!#SommChat

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163. WineCompass‏@winecompass2h

     RT @keepercoll: We’d like to introduce you to #wine blogger Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein! #SommChat#Winelover -> And #vawine lover

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164. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     We’d like to introduce you to #German#wine blogger Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein! #SommChat#Winelover

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165. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Welcome 2 #SommChat every1! Tell UR friends 2 join us 2 hear from #German#wine blogger Dr. Christian Schiller @Schillerwein#WW

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166. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     yes it is and look fwd to our questions! RT @hkremer: @keepercoll Jumping in for this week's! #SommChat Still Wed. mornings?

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167. hkremer‏@hkremer2h

     @keepercoll Jumping in for this week's! #SommChat Still Wed. mornings?

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168. 
     

     Wines of Germany US‏@GermanWineUSA2h

     RT @keepercoll: #SommChat tomorrow w/ #German#wine blogger Christian Schiller @Schillerwein! Join us at 11 AM CST! Can’t wait! - Awesome

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169. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     4 #SOmmChat tweeps RT @drvino: Right Bank = right bank for sales, recently RT @CurtisMW: Haut-Brion buys L'Arrosée: http://bit.ly/13lmk8z 

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170. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u T #SommChat 11Am CST @winesbyraz @splitnim @yumivore@bottleDJ@wineauctionhous@canterburywine#WW

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171. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @meteorvineyard@lwa235@goodtastereport @canteryburywine @drinkwhatulike@karlavadillo#WW

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172. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @rockandrhone@robertlarsen@thelittlenell@drinkalsace@WineFoodTX@haddadfrank@willowwineguy#WW

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173. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @tyleronwine@exceptionalfood@champagnesomm@vinojefftaylor@ottvinebar @rtwinestyles @tperezwine#WW

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174. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @margauxcoimport @lisaadamswalter@foundationspr@jeremysblock@foodwinefashion@bevmedia@drewbie_g#WW

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175. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @andyonfarmwine @bourgognealive @deniseclarkeatx @ronruggles@wineunion@wineprof@matthewliberty#WW

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176. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     @Sassodoro we will miss you today but see you next week on #SommChat - have a great #WW

     View conversation
177. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @lbortolot@cuvee_corner@richardsLJ@vinotaswines@sahmmelier@purplelips@postmediachats@splitbin

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178. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @envolvewinery@SeccoandRed@ancientfirewine@keepbraggincom@whyknowinphilly@GermanWineUSA#WW

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179. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll2h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @sanfab44@jeffreymar@VinoPeteblog@maxkogod@vino101net @melisas_ful @keyingredient@67wine#WW

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180. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @winetheory @leitihsu@bin36@VinoMike@Alliemerrick@Awanderingwino@BethanWallace@DallasWineComp#WW

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181. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @TheWineDiva@retakay13@corewine@ChampagneBureau@JDewps@table17@misohungry@MauricesCru#WW

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182. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @ridesmith@kitburkholder@VinusTrip@winetonight@mcontrol@Artisanal@megmaker@ormiga#WW

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183. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @kelljokrause@eddiemerlots@MagRahn@ATXFoodWineAlly@alawine@MattMcGinnis@1simplerecipe#WW

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184. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @StephanieMiskew@Monique_Rubin @DrinkPortugese @Adriennebyard@szCelebHotSpots@shelley_wine#WW

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185. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @WineauxDLynnP@masvinoporfavor @stevenvanharren @JamesCIV@JasonLett@pioneerwinelvr@hungrywino#WW

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186. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @WineInkByTia@oldgrimy@dorianandrews@sethmlong@JordanWinery@StevieStacionis@DomaineLA#WW

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187. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @theIWSR@dalluva@frenchwinetours@wineandfilmlady@i_on_food_drink@thewinedup@Virginia_made#WW

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188. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @DomaineSelect @ bergeronpaul @Eno_DC@kerrynewberry@annevanston@VinoCapisco@OneHopeWine#WW

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189. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to c u at #SommChat 11AM CST! @SommelierChall @WilliamBearden3 @JohnBPatersonIV@Raelinn_wine@becabird@elladogsays#WW

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190. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @esmergonzalez@SommelierJosh@tonyv619@Tomcwark @erinlutontoth @champagnewhit@Avondalesky#WW

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191. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

     Hope to see u at #SommChat 11AM CST @demilove@TEXSOM@ENOontheMagMile@CandVSpirits@christy627@luluarroyo@apluswines#WW

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192. KeeperCollection‏@keepercoll3h

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Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA

June 10, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvellier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

≪ Previous: Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jean Trimbach at Open Kitchen in Virginia, USA

Jean Trimbach from Maison Trimbach in Alsace, France, was in town (Washington DC area) and I had the chance to meet up with him at a winemaker dinner at Open Kitchen in Falls Church. The dinner was booked-out, helped by Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Tours, who had sent out the invitation to her list of Washington DC area winelovers, which has grown considerably over time.

As expected, it turned out to be a fun evening. Jean Trimbach is a wonderful entertainer. The wines of Maison Trimbach are outstanding and paired very well with the delicious food prepared by Open Kitchen Executive Chef/General Manager Christopher Carey and his team of Open Kitchen.

For more on Maison Trimbach, see:
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace 
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC
Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC

For more on Open Kitchen, see:
A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo
“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA

Trimbach in Alsace

Alsace is one of the several world class French wine regions, which produces many excellent still and sparkling, red and white wines, but above all it is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines. They tend to be different from those in the other parts of France: Higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with the Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also in neighboring Germany, for example in Frankfurt am Main. Compared with Germany, which also is famous for its world class dry wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied and higher in alcohol. Finally, sweeter white wines and red wines play only a minor role in Alsace, but they have a very good sparkling wine, the Cremant d’Alsace.

Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west and hard against the German border to the east. The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards.

Pictures: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours and Jean Trimbach at Open Kitchen, Virginia, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours, see:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained. Wine production in Alsace traces its beginnings to the early centuries of the Roman Empire, when the Romans conquered Alsace and introduced wine.


Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer – Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.

Pictures: At the Jean Trimbach Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen in Virginia, USA

Alsace produces wines under three different appellations: (i) Appellation d'Origine Contrôlées (AOCs) for ¾ of the white, rosé and red wines, (ii) Alsace Grand Cru AOC for white wines from certain classified vineyards and (iii) Crémant d'Alsace AOC for sparkling wines. Alsace makes noble-sweet wines, but does not have the same reputation as Germany or Austria for its noble-sweet wines. I like the Edelzwicker from Alsace, which is blend and an easy to drink day to day wine.

Since the creation of the Grand Cru AOC in Alsace, a number of winemakers have however shunned the system. Maison Trimbach is one of the most notable names to do so. The issue Maison Trimbach has with the Grand Cru AOC is that in their view the Grand Cru vineyards in a number of cases have too extensive boundaries.

Domaine Trimbach

“All French 3 star Michelin Restaurants offer Trimbach wines” says Jean Trimbach. This is really impressive and clearly shows what the name Trimbach stands for today: Wines of the highest quality.

Maison Trimbach’s wine-making history goes back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach was recognized as a citizen of Riquewihr in Alsace. From then on, the Maison Trimbach became renowned for its wines. However, it was not until the turn to the 20th century, when, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, business really took off. Since then, Maison Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauville, just a few miles north of Riquewihr, were it all began almost 400 years ago.

Pictures: Jean Trimbach, Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours and Jake McGuire from DC Style Report at Open Kitchen in Virginia, USA

Jean and Pierre Trimbach, the 12th generation, are now in charge, with Pierre looking after the wine-making side and Jean after the selling and marketing side of it. The next generation is already involved. Anne, Pierre’s daughter, is with Jean in the marketing branch; inter alia, she is in charge of the facebook and twitter activities.

Maison Trimbach is very export-oriented with more than 85 percent of the production being exported. It is both a domaine and negociant, thus it produces wine sourced from own vineyards (40 hectares) and from lease contracts (60 hectares).

Winemaking Philosophy

Maison Trimbach's vineyards are all situated around Ribeauvillé, where the soils are mainly limestone. The best sites include the Grands Crus Rosacker, Osterberg and Geisberg, but as indicated above, Maison Trimbach is one of the winemakers in Alsace that are staying away from the Grand Cru AOC system, while Maison Trimbach’s Clos Ste Hune, a Grand Cru, is arguably the finest wine of Alsace. In terms of grape varieties, the emphasis is on Riesling, but Maison Trimbach also grows all other classic Alsatian grape varieties, such as Gewuerztraminer.

Pictures: Jean Trimbach and Open Kitchen Executive Chef/General Manager Christopher Carey

Jean explains Trimbach’s wine making philosophy: “In the vineyard, the vines are cared for with a restricted approach to the use of chemicals, including insecticides and fertilizers. We ferment at 20 to 21 degrees Celsius in stainless steel tanks and large, wooden barrels. It does not really matter, if a wine is fermented in a tank or a barrel. It is more a question of fitting our needs with what is available. The barrels are smaller than the tanks and therefore the wines we produce in smaller quantities tend to end up in the wooden barrels. We never use new oak. We never do malolactic fermentation. As a rule, we bottle very early to preserve the freshness and the fruitiness. This is what Alsace is all about. The wine then matures in the bottle. The same principle as vintage port. We release wine often only 5 years later. Sometimes we wait up to 10 years.”

Pictures: Jean Trimbach and Open Kitchen Owner Hue-Chan Karels

The Trimbachs let their wines age in the bottles in the cellar during several years before they release them on the market, especially the grand cru wines, such as the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile. Wines are tasted frequently and released when deemed appropriate. In fact, the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2002 was released after the 2003 because the younger wine was felt to be ready sooner. "When it comes to great wines, there is no rush, our father said and we keep it that way" says Jean Trimbach.

The Maison Trimbach Wine Portfolio

When I visited Domaine Trimbach, Jean took us through the whole Maison Trimbach wine portfolio. The Trimbach wines come in 4 quality groups: (i) the Classic range, (ii) the Reserve range, (iii) the Reserve Personelle range and (iv) the Prestige and Collection wines.

Trimbach Classic: This is the Trimbach entry level range. These wines represent the traditional, dry, crisp Alsace white wine style and come as Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer and Riesling.

Pictures: Open Kitchen Team Members

Trimbach Reserve: The Reserve wines are made from sections with mostly old vines. These are more complex wines than the Classic wines and can age longer. The Reserve wines come as Muscat, Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, and Pinot Gris. Maison Trimbach is not particularly known for red wines, but they do produce a Pinot Noir Reserve as well as a Pinot Noir Reserve Personelle.

Pictures: "Professor" Jean Trimbach Explaining and Celebrating his wines. At the end of the Evening he sang a song with us.

Trimbach Reserve Personelle: The wines of the Reserve Personelle range are from the best terroirs of the estate and not produced every year. These wines will keep for years. There are 3 Reserve Personelle wines: (1) the Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, (2) the Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre and (3) the Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. They are clearly recognizable because of their golden labels. The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is probably the best known Trimbach wine. It is one of the finest wines of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines.

Trimbach Prestige and Collection Wines: This group comprises (1) the Riesling "Clos Sainte Hune", (2) the Vendanges Tardives wines and (3) the Sélection de Grains Nobles wines, made from Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer. The Clos Sainte Hune is an exceptional terroir, exclusively planted with Riesling, located in the heart of the Grand Cru Rosacker, in Hunawihr. This Clos totals 1.67 hectares and has been in the propriety of the Trimbach family for more than 200 years.

Open Kitchen

Open Kitchen is a farm to table, contemporary American cooking restaurant in Falls Church, Northern Virginia. Since opening it's doors about three years ago the quality of cooking has been consistently on a very high level. The menu boasts fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients and is a reflection of what you see when visiting a Virginia farm. Execution in the kitchen is very creative and done to perfection.

The Dinner

Reception

Alsatian Onion Tart

Pinot Blanc 2009

Delicate straw color with green hues. Rich and concentrated with notes of white flowers and apricot. Great balance of fruit and acidity.

“A perfect combination” said Jean Trimbach.

86 Points, Wine Advocate

First Course

Smoked Sturgeon Terrine with Petite Herb and Radish Salad, Yellow Bell Pepper Vinaigrette

Riesling 2010

Beautiful straw color with green hues. Delicate mineral fragrance with aromas of ginger, caraway seed, pineapple and flowers leading to a clean and dry finish.

87 Points, Wine Advocate

Second Course

Braised Pork Belly with Apricot Mostarda, Wilted Greens and Pork Reduction

Pinot Gris Reserve 2007

Bright, pale gold with aromas of peaches and pears. Full-bodied with ripe, smoky tropical fruit flavors and a long, nutty finish.

88 Points, Wine Spectator

Sweet Finish

Candied Heirloom Baby Beets with Mache, Blue Cheese and Brioche “Soldiers”

Pinot Gris, Hommage a Jeanne 2000

Bright lemon - gold color with aromas of ripe peaches and honey. Rich, creamy and opulent with a remarkable finish.

Jean explained that this is a very unique wine. The Trimbachs chose to pay homage to Jeanne Trimbach, the grand mother of Jean and Pierre, who turned 100 in May 2000. She passed away in 2003.

93 Points, Wine Advocate

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June 11, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Anton Bauer and his Wines and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his Food at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia, with Klaus Wittauer of Kwselection, USA

≪ Previous: Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA

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Picture: Anne Cuvelier of Chateau Leoville Poyferre and Rutger de Vink at RdV in Virginia, USA

Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family that owns, inter alia, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Event. On the side, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy organized a winemaker dinner with her at Eola on P Street in Dupont Circle in Washington DC. Anne also wanted to visit Virginia wineries. We visited 3 of the leading wineries in Virginia, all three of them intertwined with Bordeaux: Boxwood, Linden, RdV. This posting focusses on the visit of RdV.

Picture: Entering RdV

See here for the Leoville Poyferre Dinner at Eola:
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours, see:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

RDV is a new, small winery about an hour west of Washington DC, founded, owned and run by Rutger de Vink. RDV produces some 1,800 cases of ultra-premium wines: the Cabernet Sauvignon driven Lost Mountain (US$ 88) and the Merlot driven Rendezvous (US$ 75). Jim Law of Linden Vineyards, who many consider as the father of the Virginia wine boom, has described his close friend Rutger de Vink as “the next generation of Virginia wine.”

RdV – Next Generation of Virginia Wine

Wine grapes have been grown in Virginia for 400 years. Thomas Jefferson tried out vines he had imported from Europe, but he did not succeed. It has been only in the past few decades that a serious Virginia wine business has developed. Today, a handful of ambitious winemakers, including Luca Paschina at Barboursville (founded in the late 1970s by Gianni Zonin of the prominent Italian wine-producing family) and Jim Law at Linden, successfully craft premium wines, selling in the US$ 40 to 50 range.

Now, Rutger de Vink with his RdV wines has appeared on the scene, with considerably higher price points, which were unthinkable for Virginia just few years ago. And, in blind tastings, Rutger de Vink likes to taste his wines side by side with ultra-premium wines from Napa Valley and Bordeaux.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller from ombiasy wine tours, Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in Bordeaux and Rutger de Vink from RdV in Virginia

“When I got into the business over 30 years ago, Napa was still growing and making Gamay and Riesling. Oregon was focusing on Muller-Thurgau, and nobody had heard of New Zealand wine. They all re-shuffled and refocused once a few leaders showed the way. It takes an epiphany wine, like the Stag’s Leap 1973 cabernet for Napa, the Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc for New Zealand or Sassicaia for Tuscany -- all these are iconic wines for their regions. I believe RdV will do the same for Virginia” Jim Law says.

The Early Years

Rutger De Vink always had a strong interest in wine, but he became a winemaker only in his mid-thirties. Initially, he went for an MBA, spent 3 years in high-tec and also did 4 years in the marine corps, including a stint in Somalia. In 2000, Rutger de Vink decided to make vine-growing his life. He prevailed upon Jim Law of Linden Vineyards to take him on as an apprentice and worked for him in 2001 and 2002. Rutger learned winemaking from Jim Law.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferréin St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

At the same time, Rutger de Vink started searching for the right land for his winery. Typically, Virginia vineyards are afterthoughts: Someone has land and decides to grow grapes on it. Not so in the case of Rutger de Vink: He spent three years searching for an ideal spot to make wine.

Rutger de Vink could take advantage of what Virginia winemakers had learned over three decades of experimentation: The best results come from vineyards planted on steep slopes (so cold air and water dissipate quickly, thereby reducing the threat of frost or rot from humidity) and with poor, dry soils (to reduce vegetative vigor and those nasty green flavors from unripe fruit).

And he had excellent advisors. In 2002, on one of his visits to Bordeaux, Rutger De Vink struck up a friendship with fellow Dutchman Kees Van Leeuwen, viticultural consultant at Château Cheval Blanc in St-Emilion.

In 2004, Rutger de Vink bought a hilly sheep farm off Route 17 in Delaplane, with the financial backing of his well-heeled family.

Vineyard

Rutger de Vink: “RdV enjoys two essential elements of great terroir: Thin, gravelly, granite soils force the vines to stop vegetative growth during the latter part of the growing season and channel energy into the reproductive system, thus ensuring the small, concentrated berries and ripe seeds that yield wine with ample supple tannins.

Secondly, the fruit slowly reaches full ripeness in the cool autumn days of early October - conditions ideal for wines with complexity and finesse.”

Rutger explained that it was his deep exposure to some of the top properties of Bordeaux that gave him the determination to find a site that was well drained. Virginia was lots of rain and good drainage is essential.

Picture: Rutger de Vink Explaining the Different Soil Types of RdV

With 6.5 hectares under vine, the vineyard is divided into eleven parcels and planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%), Petit Verdot (12%) and Cabernet Franc (8%).

The vines were planted in 2006.  Rutger de Vink’s travels in Bordeaux also put him in touch with Jean-Philippe Roby, Professor at the University of Bordeaux, who advised him on planting.

Winecellar

The tank cellar comprises 12 stainless steel fermentation tanks with six arrayed on each side. Rutger explained that as there are 11 parcels in the vineyard, the tanks allow each of the parcels of fruit to be fermented separately, with the largest (Cabernet Sauvignon) parcel split across two tanks. In general there is enough yeast on the fruit and in the winery for fermentation to start within 2-3 days. The wine is fermented for approximately 9 days followed by 2 to 4 week maceration. RdV employs both punch-downs and pump-overs two to three times per day.

Picture: In the Cellar

The barrel vaulted cave is spaced by stone and cement ribs. The initial vintages were aged in 100% new French oak barrels. The goal is to have 60-70% new oak for each vintage.  The barrels are racked once every six months. The wines are typically aged 18-22 months depending upon the vintage. When bottling occurs there is no filtration.  RdV may fine the wine using egg whites.

Picture: In the Barrel Cave

RdV

RdV is located on one of the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The property consists of 100 acres of land that was originally home to cattle. With its distinctive silo, RdV’s exterior fits well into the rustic Virginia landscape, but its interiors incorporate a contemporary edge with materials like concrete and metal.

On the winery's first floor, guests can gather for wine tastings in the hearth room, which boasts a fireplace, modern couches, and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grounds. A circular staircase leads to the fermentation room downstairs, which is filled with 12 stainless-steel tanks. Also downstairs is the wine storage cave room.

Wine Portfolio

RdV Vineyards makes two wines: Lost Mountain, a Cabernet Sauvignon dominant Bordeaux blend and a blend of mostly Merlot called Rendezvous.

Rutger de Vink made 1800 cases in 2010, with a goal to get to 2500 cases total, perhaps 800 of them Lost Mountain.

Rutger de Vink also hired Eric Boissenot, a consultant to four of Bordeaux’s five first-growth chateaux, to blend his wines. Still today, Rutger explained, samples of RdV are overnighted from Dulles International Airport to Paris, and from there to Bordeaux, so Boissenot can taste and analyze them and electronically transmit recommendations back to RdV.

A Quick Tour of the Winery

Guided by Rutger, Anne Cuvelier, Annette Schiller and I took a quick tour of the winery, after a glass of Champagne.

Picture: A Glass of Champagne

Rutger took as to a place where he could show us the soil of the vineyards, granite soil with sandy loam, and 30% rock content. There are 18 inches of clay and gravel then almost 40 feet of decomposed granite which is at a consistent depth throughout the knoll.

We then went to the tank room which is the tallest space ranging from the floor at the basement level all of the way to the roof.

We continued to the barrel vaulted cave and the part of the winery, were the bottles are filled and stored. The Spartan design of the bottle aging cave frames the back wall of exposed rock. Here we are some 40 feet beneath the surface of the vineyards.

Picture: Exposed Rock

The bottling line is located within a small glass enclosed room. Just outside of the bottling room, is the laboratory. It too is glass enclosed.

Picture: Bottling Line

Dinner with Rutger de Vink and Anne Cuvelier

Rutger de Vink had just returned from the en primeurs 2012 tastings in Bordeaux and naturally, the conversation went back and forth between the wines of Bordeaux and the wines of Virginia. The focus was on the 2009 wines, but we also drank earlier vintages.

Picture: Getting Ready for Dinner

Lost Mountain 2009 

Eric Boissenot: “With a vibrant ruby color, Lost Mountain reveals a complex nose of dense black fruit notes and subtle oak. Its young and lively nature, coupled with velvety tannins, creates a wine with remarkable flexibility and refinement. Balanced elegance and structure provides a stunning and delicate finish.”

Jancis Robinson: “Lustrous crimson – very healthy looking. Lovely delicacy and lift. Charmer. Sort of a Margaux! Really juicy and articulate and just a hint of spice on the end. Great build. 18/20 points.”

Grape Varieties: 77%  Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot.
$88/bottle

Rendezvous 2009

Eric Boissenot: “Rendezvous has a brilliant core of deep ruby color with a delicate nose hinting at sweet notes of pastry.  On the palate, the wine reveals a ripe tannin structure that is both harmonious and flattering, leading to a supple approachability.  It finishes with an energized backbone that sings of minerality from the hillsides’ granitic soils.”

Picture: Leaving RdV at 9 pm with Rutger; he had to go to a late night presentation of his wines in Washington DC

Jancis Robinson: “Putty nose and very polished and complete. Nice dry finish. Great balance. 17/20 points.

Grape Varieties: 35% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot.
$75/bottle

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≪ Previous: Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvellier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Anton Bauer, Weingut Bauer in Austria at L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC, USA

Owner and winemaker Anton Bauer, Weingut Anton Bauer in Austria, was in town and I had the chance to dine and wine with him at Chef Jacques E. Haeringer’s Alsatian restaurant L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC. Klaus Wittauer, former L’Auberge Chez Francois sommelier and currently Anton Bauer’s (and other Austrian winemakers’) US importer, skillfully orchestrated the evening.

Anton Bauer and Weingut Anton Bauer

The history of Weingut Anton Bauer is an amazing success story. Within less than two decades, Anton Bauer created an impressive winery with an excellent reputation out of a tiny mixed farming operation of his parents. Today, Anton Bauer processes the grapes of some 55 hectares of vineyards in an ultra-modern cellar, with three-quarters of the production being exported to foreign countries, including the US. The Anton Bauer wines regularly get top ratings and prizes. Klaus Wittauer, based in Virginia, played a major role in this story.

Pictures: Anton Bauer and Klaus Wittauer

Anton Bauer on his success: “The key is quality. It is the deciding factor in whether a customer comes only once or repeatedly. One already notices this at the tasting, whether someone is happy with the wine or not – and one can only talk one’s way out of a weak vintage once ... To strive for top quality is a conscious decision – and then it requires a variety of factors, small and big decisions in the vineyard and the cellar, how to get where one wants to be.”

Anton Bauer, born in 1971, represents the 4th generation to manage the now 55 hectares (owned and leased) winery. After completing his viticulture studies in 1988, he did his first internship in Burgundy and then worked in the winery of the Göttweig Monastery in Furth, near Krems. In 1992, he took over his parents’ small farm including vineyards totaling a bit more than 3 hectares and embarked on an extraordinary process of expansion.

Pictures: Anton Bauer, Klaus Wittauer and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC

When Anton Bauer took over, 95% of the output was white wine, sold almost exclusively as simple house wine, typically in 2-liter bottles. Anton Bauer: “The biggest problem when I took over was the poor cellar technology. I had to invest here immediately.” The old wooden barrels were disposed of and new steel tanks were bought. “You could offer the customer something better – I went straight to change the customer base in 1995, when I gave up the entire house wine business with its 2-liter bottles overnight.” He incurred a massive revenue loss in the short term, but it meant the strategic reorientation of the entire winery.

Red wine was also an issue for Anton Bauer and he planted vineyards in 1993 with some Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zweigelt. From the 1994 vintage, Anton Bauer produced the first “Wagram Cuvée”, a red wine – an elegant and finesse rich, but also powerful wine from an excellent vintage. The wine was a big hit.

2000 was another decisive year, when Anton Bauer met Klaus Wittauer at the International Wine Fair "VieVinum" in Vienna. Klaus Wittauer was interested in bringing the Anton Bauer wines to the US. A new team was formed: Bauer and Wittauer. The export to America developed excellently. Anton Bauer: “Therefore we could expand very quickly and increase the vineyards – but not fast enough. In 2003, I found that we could not grow fast enough to meet the demand.”

Picture: Anton Bauer with Guests

Anton Bauer and Klaus Wittauer therefore decided in 2003 to start their own wine-export company. Besides the wines of Anton Bauer, today it also exports a wide range of wines from a handful of selected companies from the various wine regions of Austria to America.

But also the Austrian market became increasingly interested in the Anton Bauer winery. Anton Bauer became an important player in the home markets such as the ski resorts in the Arlberg region. Soon, the first awards followed. “Toni - who?” became the top vintner Anton Bauer

Wagram

Weingut Anton Bauer is in the Wagram (2800 hectares), a 40 km long and 30 m high ridge between the towns of Krems and Tulln, consisting of thousands of years old gravel sediments of the ancient Danube.

Vineyards

Rosenberg: The "Rosenberg" vineyard site is one of the best sites in Feuersbrunn. It is situated on one of the highest areas used for wine growing in the Wagram.

Spiegel: Soft, south-facing tarraced site with a height similar to that of the Rosenberg, and protected against the northwest by the gravel ridge of the Hengstberg.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Anton Bauer, Weingut Bauer in Austria at L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC, USA

Berg: "Berg" is a common name for sites for the southerly descending slopes of the Wagram. The soil consists of gravel, clay and loess including some primary rock and is well suited for vines ranging from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling to Syrah.

Gmörk: Middle High German for "community boundary".

Weingut Anton Bauer Portfolio

White Cuvée, Rosé, Sparkling White Wine: Fragrant white wine blend, Rosé from Zweigelt, Syrah and Merlot, and Sparkling Wine produced by the traditional Champagne method are the first choice as an apéritif to greet guests. Wonderful drinks for the terrace on a summer's evening.

Riesling, Gruener Veltliner Gmörk, Gruener Veltliner Rosenberg: The Riesling is from the site known as Ried Berg, located south of Feuersbrunn. With its intensive stone fruit, fine structure and mature pleasant integrated acidity, it is a refreshing elegant accompaniment to light appetizers. The less fruity, finely spiced Veltliner, “Gmörk” and “Rosenberg” is another equally interesting option as an accompaniment to these dishes.

Gruener Veltliner Rosenberg Reserve, Gruener Veltliner Grande Reserve: The powerful Gruener Veltliner accompanies dishes that go well with a light dry red wine. The Rosenberg Reserve is always the fresher version, while the Grand Reserve brings more opulence and creaminess.

Zweigelt: The classic Zweigelt is a charming, fruity red wine for all occasions.

Pinot Noir Wagram, Pinot Noir Reserve: Anton Bauer's Pinots are the ultimate accompaniment to delicate dishes of wild game and wild fowl.

Wagram Cuvee, Reserve Wagram: The complex aroma mix of the different grape varieties, fine-grained tannins and animated acidity make Anton Bauer cuvées universal food companions.

Merlot Reserve: On the loess soil of the Rosenberg one finds the late-ripening Merlot, influenced by the best conditions of soil and sunlight. The grapes are fully ripe and the wine has aromas of dark berries and peppery spice and its quaint fruit sweetness is warm and inviting.

Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Edition: This powerful red wine with its distinctive structure, its mighty tannin structure and its lush, dark berry fruit abundance is an aristocratic companion for strong stews and game dishes of braised ox cheek to venison haunch to wild boar ragout but also for a classic, medium cooked steak in all its forms from the filet or porterhouse steak to the Tuscan steak on the charcoal grill.

Eiswein: This white sweet wine specialty is pressed only when the natural conditions permit.

The Weingut Anton Bauer Team

Anton Bauer: Winemaker

Gudrun Steinböck: Partner in life of Anton Bauer. She is responsible for the wide variety of tasks arising in connection with the organization, presentation and sales at the winery.

Sieglinde Bauer: Sister of Anton Bauer. Her main focus is to ensure a smooth delivery of Anton Bauer wines to America alongside her responsibility for the complete wine export.

Edeltraud Bauer: Mother of Anton Bauer. She took her well deserved retirement a couple of years ago.

Klaus Wittauer and Kwselection

Klaus and I go back many years. He was born in Austria and attended Hotel and Restaurant Management School in Salzburg. He then worked for many years in some of the world‘s top restaurants in Austria, Bermuda and the United States, including the lovely L‘Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, Virginia, where we first met. Then he moved to the trade side and became the wine buyer for Sutton Place Gourmet (today: Balducci) in Washington DC before creating his own export company in Austria with Anton Bauer about ten years ago. At the same time, he created kwselection in the US.

Picture: Anton Bauer and Jane Thell of Kwelection

Today, Kwselection includes top producers from most of the wine producing areas of Austria: Anton Bauer from the Wagram, Leo Hillinger from Burgenland, Gustav Strauss from Styria, Martin Mittelbach from Wachau, Karl and Brigitta Steininger from Kamptal, Steindorfer from Neusiedlersee, Proidl from Kremstal, Meinklang from Burgenland, and, this his most recent addition, Weingut Netzl from Carnuntum.

As an Austrian married to an American, Klaus has a close relationship with all of his wineries in Austria and has succeed in expanding distribution throughout the United States, with a strong focus on the East Coast.

For other postings on winemakers in Klaus Wittauer's portfolio, see:
The American Art of Joanne Roberts Wittauer and the Austrian Wines of Klaus Wittauer– A Taste of Art and Wines at the Curious Grape in Shirlington in the Washington DC Area, USA
 “Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA 
Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer
Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Skype and Biodynamic Winemaking - Winetasting in the US with Winemaker Werner Michlits, Weingut Meinklang, in Austria
At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Jacques E. Haeringer and L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia

L’Auberge Chez Francois is an extraordinary place in the hills outside of Washington DC. It was founded by François Haeringer in the heart of Washington DC in 1954. Today, L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls is much the same as when François first opened it - family-run, with Jacques’ brother Paul as the restaurant's sommelier and Jacques as Chef de Cuisine. L'Auberge Chez François is on the top 50 list of "Best Overall" Restaurants in US, as voted by users of the Open Table reservation system.

Picture: Arriving at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls

Chef Jacques is one of America’s most respected culinary personalities. His menus feature classic Alsatian and French cuisine reinterpreted for American palates. While his father Francois used to say that the chef has to stay in the kitchen, Chef Jacques is very present in the restaurant. He clearly enjoys talking about food and to communicate with his guests. He is great fun to listen to. No wonder that Jacques can be found sharing his cooking secrets on radio and television programs across the country.

Pictures: Chef Jacques E. Haeringer’ and Klaus Wittauer, Christian Schiller and Anton Bauer at L’Auberge Chez Francois in the hills outside of Washington DC.

Jacques is also a great writer and his articles have been featured in such journals as Gourmet, Wine and Spirits,and Cosmopolitan.Finally, Jacques is the author of “Two for Tonight,” a collection of recipes that inspire romance through food and togetherness, and the “Chez François Cookbook,” the bible of classic Alsatian cuisine featuring some of the restaurant’s most popular recipes.

Postings on winemaker dinners at  L’Auberge Chez Francois:
Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia
Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA
Anton Bauer and his Wines and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his Food at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia, with Klaus Wittauer of Kwselection, USA 

Wining and Dining

What a feast - a fascinating combination of outstanding white and red wines from Austria and superb food from Alsace.

Hors d’oeuvres

Anton Bauer Rosé 2012 $13

Zweigelt-Syrah-Merlot. Clear, intensive pink; stimulating fragrant nose - floral and berry: clear, elegant structure; refreshing on the palate through its juicy acid; well cooled a marvelous patio wine for long summer evenings.

Warm Beets with Night Sky Farm Goat Cheese

Anton Bauer Rosenberg Gruner Veltliner 2012 $20

Beaming yellow with straw-gold reflexes: in the nose fine apple tones. Pear, quince, aroma of dried fruits with an exotic hint, exhibits pleasant spice; on the palate nutty-spicy-peppery, piquant fruit acid, juicy and stimulating; elegant, lively finish.

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, Fresh Asparagus, Beurre Blanc

Anton Bauer Spiegel Gruner Veltliner 2012 $32

Fresh and spicy fragrance, with a strong body, delicate creamy texture and lively but pleasant adicity, making it a pure joy to drink.

Lamb Tenderloin aux Herbes du Jardin

Anton Bauer Wagram Reserve 2009 $35 (The 3 liter bottle, which we had, is $125)

Cabernet Sauvignon-Blaufränkisch-Zweigelt-Syrah-Merlot. Radiant ruby, spicy and racy in the nose, herb and cherry aromas.

Striking, pithy, and archaic robustness; fruity tones dominate the palate - cherry tones and dark berries, fine play of Austrian fruits and international style.

Apple and Apricot Strudel, Honey Ice Cream

Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner Ice Wine 2009 $33

This wine has a floral bouquet, with a hint of walnut, peaches, apricot and honey balanced and toasty fragrances on the palate.

The End

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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June 13, 2013, 10:30 pm

≫ Next: Ranking 12 Rieslings: Finger Lakes (USA) versus Germany

≪ Previous: Anton Bauer and his Wines and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his Food at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia, with Klaus Wittauer of Kwselection, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen at Black Salt in Washington DC

Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had a chance to meet him and taste his wines several times. I dined and wined twice with him: At a tête-à-tête dinner at the trendy Indian fusion restaurant Rasika and with a larger group at the Black Salt, which is just next to Mac Arthur Beverages, the organizer of the event. Ernst Loosen is a charismatic figure and has done loads for promoting German Riesling around the world.

This is the last posting in a series of 3 postings:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World  
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA 
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State. At the dinner at Black Salt, we tasted and focused on Rieslings from the Mosel Valley and Pinot Noirs from Oregon.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Black Salt in Washington DC

Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley

The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Black Salt in Washington DC

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market. So, it was not a surprise that during his stay in Washington DC, Ernst Loosen presented also is dry Red Slate wine as well as Grosses Gewaechs wines – the ultra-premium dry wines from Germany. “But  while in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewaechs wines are very high in demand. Here in the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst.

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Dr. Loosen

The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst explained to us that his wines can be grouped into 3 quality categories.

Single Vineyard Wines

These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995).

“We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Ernst said.

Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines from a number of his grand cru vineyards, including Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat and Erdener Treppchen.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Black Salt in Washington DC

Ernst explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.

Estate Wines

Ernst said that all the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines, are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.

The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.

 

Pictures: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy and Ernst Loosen at Black Salt. Indeed, the forthcoming Germany trip of Annette Schiller includes a wine tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley.

See:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Dr. L

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

Ernst Loosen in Oregon

Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Jay Somers and Ernst Loosen met years ago, and quickly realized that they shared a similar taste and passion for Pinot Noir. Their friendship led to a partnership, and in 2010, they began building a winery and vineyard in Newberg, Oregon. As winemaker for the joint venture, Jay is in charge of all winery operations. Ernst sees his role as that of an investor who both supports the growth of the brand and broadens the winery’s exposure to Old World ideas and techniques.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at the J. Christopher Winery

Loosen Christopher Wines LLC produces wines under the J. Christopher brand. The venture purchased a 40-acre property for a new vineyard and J. Christopher Winery on Hillside Drive in Newberg, Oregon. Planting of the first block of Pinot Noir began last year. The first phase of the winery construction, the barrel cellar construction, occurred before the 2010 harvest. When I visited the winery with Tim Malone, the Phase II construction had just begun. At full build-out, the winery will have a production capacity of 8000 cases of Pinot Noir and 2000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc and other white wines.

See:
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz

In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.

The Pfalz region lies between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River, directly north of France’s Alsace region. As in Alsace, the mountains protect the area from harsh Atlantic weather, making it one of the warmer and drier areas of Germany. In this climate, achieving full ripeness is possible in nearly every vintage. Mature, fully ripened fruit is the key to making concentrated dry-style wines that have enough body to balance the naturally high acidity.

Ernst Loosen in Washington State

Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.

Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA

Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.

Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland) and
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon).

Black Salt

Black Salt is the Black Restaurant Group’s popular flagship in the Palisades area, directly next to McArthur’s. It combines a terrific on-site market for fresh fish, a lively bar, the main dining room and the somewhat more intimate and elegant back room, where tasting took place. Black Salt is one of the leading fish restaurants in town. I like to go there for oyster happy hour.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Chef Jeff Black, Owner of Black Salt

Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages

Addy Bassin’s MacArthur Beverages is – with Calvert and Woodley - Washington DC's leading retailer and importer of fine wines and spirits. MacArthur Beverages was founded in 1957 by Addy & Ruth Bassin and is located at 4877 MacArthur Blvd. in Washington DC. Ruth Bassin and her two daughters are the sole owners of MacArthur Beverage. Without doubt, MacArthur Beverages has the best selection of German wine in the Washington DC area. Ask for Phil Bernstein, who is in charge of German wines at MacArthur Beverages.

The Dinner

Chef Thomas Leonard came up with an exciting menu to pair with the special wines of Ernst Loosen.

Pictures: Chef Thomas Leonard, Ernst Loosen and Phil Bernstein

Dr. L Sekt

Not well known outside of Germany, sparkling wine has a long, rich tradition in Germany, where it has been called “Sekt” since the late 1800s. Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany.

Dr. L Sparkling is 100% pure Riesling - the crisp, fruity grape that has made German wine famous for centuries. It is made using the Charmat method, which produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable way

1st Course
Kona Kampachi Duo
Sashimi - Habanero- Blood Orange Reduction & Cucumber
Quick Ceviche - Grapefruit, Melon, Sea Urchin

Dr. Loosen Red Slate Riesling Dry 2011

The 2011 Red Slate Dry has a pronounced, enveloping aroma of slate minerality. There is good impact on the palate, with a nicely lifted mid-palate and a rounded, harmonious structure.

2nd Course
Pan Roasted Icelandic Cod
Roasted Fennel, English Pea Puree, Crispy Artichokes, Black Garlic-Ramp Vinaigrette

Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2011

Wine and Spirits (93 points): Firm and delicate, this gives the sense of looking from the top of the rocky Treppchen hill, with the scent of herps and wildflowers growing between sun-warmed stones.

3rd Course
Wood Grilled Cobia
Local Chilies, Shiitakes, Watercress, Crispy Rice Cake, Coconut-Kaffir Lime Broth

Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2011

The 2011 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is #67 (and 94 points!) on the 2012 Wine Spectator Top 100 list. The tasting note from their Dec. 15 issue says: “Intense aromas and flavors of peach strudel and apple pie feature notes of custard and gooseberry. The vibrant finish echoes with long, pure glazed citrus notes. A powerful style. Drink now through 2030.

4th Course
Seared Big Eye Tuna
Confit Duck Pierogi, Caramelized Cipollini Onions, Baby Turnips, Juniper- Dried Cherry Jus

J Christopher Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010

From a very small crop in a cool vintage, the 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot has great fruit purity and a fine, clean structure. The signature of this vintage is superb balance, with bright, juicy fruit, moderate alcohol and supple tannins all working together in elegant harmony.

5th Course
Poached Apple and Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Pecan Waffle, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Apple-Calvados Syrup

Dr. Loosen Uerziger Wuerzgarten Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule 2006

David Schildknecht:  “92 points -- In comparison with its gold capsule Spätlese counterpart, the Loosen 2006 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese features fresh, “cool” strawberry and kiwi fruit, and exhibits a cut and clarity as well as a sheer juiciness, all unusual for Auslese in any vintage, let alone this one. Sassafras and other herbal allusions suggest some borrowing from the neighboring terroir of Erdener Treppchen, and this finishes its sweetness perfectly judged with ravishing delicacy and length of strawberry, melon, honey, and herbal essences. Without any selection, this parcel yielded near Beerenauslese must weight.  Plan to cellar this for up to 30 years.

Coffee & Tea Service

Gosses Gewaechs (Grand Cru) Wines

At Black Salt, Ernst did not pour Grosses Gewaechs wines, but a earlier in the week I had a chance to taste two of his Grosses Gewaechs wines.

2010 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

Würzgarten means ‘spice garden’ and this wine shows exactly that. White pepper, curry, cumin and other spices dominate the nose. Exotic fruits sweeten it up. Rose and peach petals, exotic spices and acidity showing in the long finish. The acidity is mellow and more integrated.

2010 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

From avery steep parcel of the original Erdener Treppchen  vineyard, this penetrating dry wine reflects the muscular minerality that is characteristic of the iron-rich red slate of this site. 92 Points Wine and Spirits

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ranking 12 Rieslings: Finger Lakes (USA) versus Germany

June 16, 2013, 12:30 am

≫ Next: An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

≪ Previous: Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen at Black Salt in Washington DC

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Picture: The 2 Rieslings with the Highest Overall Scores - both from the Finger Lakes Region

The Finger Lakes Wine Alliance provided me with 6 new releases, all Riesling, from the Finger Lakes region in New York State. I complemented the Finger Lakes Riesling wines with 6 German Rieslings from my cellar, which I thought would fit in terms of quality level and price point. We tasted the wines blind during a dinner at our house in McLean, Virginia, with a group of wine friends.

Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, prepared the dinner (6 courses) and also prepared tasting notes (see below).

Celebrating Finger Lakes Wines in Washington DC

This was the fifth such tasting at our house in McLean, Virginia. Here are postings on schiller-wine about earlier events.

Celebrating the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes Region, New York State, US East Coast
Celebrating the Arrival of the Finger Lakes 2010 Riesling in Washington DC, USA
Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

Riesling in the World

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Nevertheless, Australia was a bit underrepresented at the 1st International Riesling Symposium. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Finger Lakes AVA

The Finger Lakes AVA in upstate New York State encompasses seven glacial lakes, although the majority of plantings are around Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga Lakes. Most vineyards are planted on hillsides overlooking the lakes. These deep lakes help to moderate the climate, as stored heat is released from the lakes during the winter, keeping the weather mild (relative to surrounding areas) and preventing early frosts. The reflection of the sun off the lakes during summer extends the growing season. This cool-climate region is often compared to the wine-growing region of Germany, and like Germany, has had special success with Riesling.

Pictures: Finger Lakes in New York State

The Finger Lakes include 4,452 hectares of vineyards, making it New York State's largest wine growing region. New York State is with Washington State the second largest wine producer in the US, with a bit more than 10.000 hectares. Of this, 400 hectares are accounted for by Riesling.

Annette Schiller’s Tasting Notes

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley. The forthcoming Germany trip of Annette Schiller includes a wine tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley.

See:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Here are Annette Schiller’s tasting notes.

Overall Conclusion

This tasting was a very interesting show off between Finger Lake and German Rieslings with the result that the Finger Lake wines were on par with the German wines.

Pictures: The Tasters

All 12 wines tasted were very different with regard to level of sweetness and style, but all were on a surprisingly high level of quality, regardless of the different vintages and of their origins. All wines showed the Riesling’s flinty and fruity aromas, with the Finger Lake Rieslings much heavier on the floral/fruity side whereas the German Rieslings exhibited more minerality.

We tasted the 12 Rieslings in the following order.

12 Rieslings: Tasting Notes

Picture: 12 Rieslings and Jake McGuire from DC Style Report

Swedish Hill Winery 2011 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

Distinctive floral aromas on the nose, elegant interplay of fruitiness and acidity on the palate, well-structured lean body, and fresh, lingering finish.

Winzergenossenschaft Bornich, Loreley 2009, Riesling trocken, Mittelrhein, Germany

Nice bouquet of honey and yellow fruits with a hint of citrus on the nose, pronounced minerality, a mouth feel of stone and gravel is reminiscent of the Loreley rock, where the vines grow, round, firm finish.

See also:
The Wines of Loreley , Germany

Balthasar Ress 2011, Von Unserm, Riesling, Rheingau, Germany

Perfect Riesling aroma on the nose: citrus, ripe apple, peach with just a faint hint of tropical fruits, concentrated fruit, minerality, and a spirited yet stable acidity make this bone dry wine the ultimate summer wine, crisp and lingering finish.

See also:
Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Glenora Wine Cellars 2012 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

Exotic tropical and citrus flavors on the nose, pronounced sweetness with a hint if acidity, considerable minerality adds to the balance on the palate, medium bodied with a good finish.

Lakewood Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

A racy, beautiful Riesling, an attack of citrus on the nose and lots of yellow fruit flavors, a light to medium bodied, elegant wine with perfect acidity / sweetness balance, earthiness and minerality, and a crisp lingering finish.

Standing Stone Vineyards 2012 Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

A somewhat restraint bouquet of citrus, pear, and tropical fruits on the nose, considerable residual sugar on the palate, offset by a pronounced acidity, well balanced, medium bodied, mellow mouth feel and long finish.

Kuehling-Gillot 2010 Qvintera Riesling trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

Beautiful bouquet of ripe apple and peach on the nose, lively acidity and just the right hint of sweetness on the palate paired with noticeable minerality, full bodied with a long finish.

See also:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Clemens Busch 2009, Vom roten Schiefer, Riesling, Mosel, Germany

Restrained bouquet of citrus, apple, peach flavors on the nose, concentrated fruit paired with a settled sweetness, spirited acidity and earthiness achieve elegance on the palate, light bodied with a broad finish.

See also:
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Red Newt Cellars 2011, Sawmill Creek Vineyards, Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

Pronounced yellow fruit aroma and a whiff of citrus and quince on the nose, distinctive sweetness on the palate, elegant combination of fruit and minerality, opulent finish.

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2012 Red Oak Vineyard Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

Attack of honeysuckle, pear, floral aromas on the nose, pronounced sweetness and fruitiness combined with a restrained acidity on the palate leave a mellow mouth feel, exquisite finish.

Dr. Loosen 2011, Riesling Dry Red Slate, Mosel, Germany

Attack of tropical fruits, ripe peach, citrus, and also floral aromas on the nose, sweetness is elegantly balanced by a crisp acidity and minerality reflecting the wine’s slate origin, light bodied with a clean, everlasting finish.

For more on Ernst Loosen, see:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

August Kesseler 2011 Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, Germany

Notes of ripe peach, apple, citrus, and spices on the nose, the residual sugar and concentrated fruit are perfectly balanced with a stable acidity, full bodied with a crisp, very fresh, broad finish.

See also:
A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Ranking

There were 10 of us. I asked all participants to rank the 12 wines and then aggregated the ranking. The best score could have been 12 and the worst score could have been 120. The actual scores ranged between 47 and 81.

1  (47) Lakewood Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA
1  (47) Standing Stone Vineyards 2012 Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA
3  (52) August Kesseler 2011 Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, D
4  (54) Glenora Wine Cellars 2012 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA
4  (54) Kuehling-Gillot 2010 Qvintera Riesling trocken, Rheinhessen, D
6  (56) Clemens Busch 2009 “vom roten schiefer” Riesling, Mosel, D
7  (70) Dr. Loosen 2011 Riesling Dry Red Slate, Mosel, D
8  (71) Swedish Hill Winery 2011 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA
9  (72) Winzergenossenschaft Bornich 2009 Riesling trocken, Mittelrhein, D
10(73) Red Newt Cellars 2011 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA
11(77) Balthasar Ress 2011 Riesling “Von Unserm”, Rheingau, D
12(81) Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2012 Red Oak Vineyard Riesling, Finger Lakes, USA

Dinner

Annette Schiller prepared a simple, but delicious 7-course dinner.

Cucumber with Cream on Slice of German Bratwurst

Spundekaes - A Specialty from Rheinhessen and the Rheingau

Salmon and Apple-Cucumber Salad

Green Asparagus with Prosciutto and Guacamole

German Potato Salate and Bratwurst

American Artisan Cheese Selection

Fresh Strawberries and Quark in a Crepe Cone

schiller-Wine: Related Postings

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions - I have Counted Five

How does a Sweet German Riesling Become Sweet?

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

American and German Winemakers Among the 7 Winners of Trophies of Excellence of the Riesling Du Monde Competition 2010

German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer

German American Wines: (1) NV Two Worlds Pinot Noir, (2) Poet's Leap Riesling and (3) Herrmann J. Wiemer and his Finger Lakes Rieslings

German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

Christian G.E. Schiller Leads Tasting of US-American Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Celebrating the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes Region, New York State, US East Coast

Dr. Frank Wines from Finger Lakes Featured at State Luncheon for Chancellor Merkel in Washington, D.C., USA

Kruger-Rumpf (Germany) and Dr. Frank (USA) Rieslings– The Wines I Brought to the 2011 European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) Opening BYOB Party

The Wines of Loreley , Germany

Celebrating the Arrival of the Finger Lakes 2010 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA