schiller-wine

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Christine and Franz Netzl in Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum

The Fallstaff RotweinGuide 2013, a wine guide for Austrian red wine, was released in December 2012 in Vienna, Austria. In the Fallstaff RotweinGuide 2013, more than 1000 wines of almost 400 winemakers are described on 306 pages. This key reference for Austrian wine was released for the 16th time by Peter Moser. The focus of the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013 is on the 2010 vintage. The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013 awarded prizes in 11 categories.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Peter Moser in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

For previous years see:
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011
Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Austria’s Red Wine Boom

At first thought one might think of Austria’s climate as being quite cool for red wine. In the Alps and the western and northern reaches of the country this tends to be true. The eastern plains that border Hungary and Slovenia, however, are a different story. Yes, Austria has an international reputation for its white wines, but the reds have been improving. Like in Germany, in Austria there has been a revolution going on in terms of red wines in recent years. In both countries, red wine now accounts for about 1/3 of the wine production.

There are 3 key Austrian red grape varieties, although others are also grown, including international grapes. Zweigelt accounts for 9.0 % of Austria’s total production, Blaufraenkisch for 5.5 % and Blauer Portugieser 5.0 %. All other red grape varieties - including the international grapes Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as well as St. Lauren - are below 2 percent each of Austria’s wine production.

Zwiegelt: The most abundant red grape; makes good wines ranging from simple cherry fruit reds to more substantial reds destined for aging.

Blaufränkisch: Common in Burgenland, this makes spicy, sturdy, berry fruited reds which can have some tannic structure. Probably Austria’s best red grape.

Blauer Portugieser: This red grape makes soft, approachable, juicy wines mainly for early consumption. The most widely planted red grape but not for top quality wines.

St. Laurent: Came from France in the mid-19th century, and seems to have substantial Pinot Noir parentage. It makes soft, slight herby, expressive reds; it’s a bit like Pinot Noir.

See more:
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

The Fallstaff 2013 Awards

Falstaff-Sieger 2012

These are the 3 overall winners, with the highest scores (Punkte).

1. Pannobile 2010 – Weingut Anita und Hans Nittnaus, Gols (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Rosenberg 2010 – Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch, Göttlesbrunn (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Blaufränkisch Spiegel 2010 – Weingut Paul Achs, Gols (94 Falstaff-Punkte)

Weingut Anita und Hans (John) Nittnaus

The Neusiedlersee region has seen quite a bit of national and international recognition in recent years and the good work and wines of Anita und Hans (John) Nittnaus are one of the reasons, why this has happened.

Nittnaus is a very common name in the Burgenland. I believe there are at least 3 Hans Nittnaus in the Neusiedlersee, producing wine, which creates a problem for the consumer. So, one way of distinguishing themselves from the others is via their spouses (Anita) and the other one is via nicknames (John).

Weingut Anita and Hans (John) Nittnaus is located in Gols on the east side of Lake Neusiedl. The history of Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus goes back to the 17th century. Since then, the family has always been in agriculture and viticulture. The winery as you see it today was constructed in 1927 by Hans’ grandfather. Two generations later, in 1985, Anita and Hans Nittnaus took over the family business. They had met in Vienna, where they both were studying. Together they decided to continue with the family business. Anita and Hans (John) have four children.

Picture: Hans (John) Nittnaus in Rust

Today, the vineyard area totals 35 hectares, with about 90 percent planted with red wine. The plots are widely scattered. The main varieties are Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, but there is also Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The winemaking philosophy of the Nittnaus' is very simple: terroir-driven and naturally produced (in the sense of as little intervention as possible) wines of the highest quality. Since 2007, Anita and Hans (John) Nittnaus have fully switched to biodynamic viticulture.

Hans (John) Nittnaus clearly is a wine pioneer. With his cuvees he has set new standards in the Burgenland wine culture. If you would want to write a book about the red wine revolution in Austria, you could take Weingut Anita and Hans (John) Nittnaus as a case study.

See also:
Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

Vienna Insurance Group – Falstaff Reserve-Trophy 2012

This award is for wines that have spent more time aging before being released.

1. Blaufränkisch Reserve Oberer Wald 2009 – Weingut Günter und Regina Triebaumer, Rust (96 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Blaufränkisch Tannenberg 2009 – Weingut Anita und Hans Nittnaus, Gols (96 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. massive a. rot 2009 SY/ZW/ME – Weingut Artner, Höflein (96 Falstaff-Punkte)

Zweigelt-Grand-Prix 2012

1. Zweigelt Alte Reben 2011 – Weingut Paul Achs, Gols (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Zweigelt Rubin Carnuntum 2011 – Weingut Trapl, Stixneusiedl (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. All Red 2011 – Weingut Vinum Pannonia Allacher, Gols (92 Falstaff-Punkte)

Blaufränkisch

1. Blaufränkisch Spiegel 2010 – Weingut Paul Achs, Gols (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Blaufränkisch Perwolff 2010 – Weingut Krutzler, Deutsch Schützen (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Blaufränkisch Bärnreiser 2010 – Weingut Hans und Philipp Grassl, Göttlesbrunn (94 Falstaff-Punkte)

Cabernet Sauvignon

1. Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 – Weingut Erich Scheiblhofer, Andau (91 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Cabernet Sauvignon Tribun 2010 – Weingut Taferner, Göttlesbrunn (91 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Cabernet Sauvignon Aubühel 2010 – Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl, Göttlesbrunn (91 Falstaff-Punkte)

Cuvée

1. Pannobile 2010 – Weingut Anita und Hans Nittnaus, Gols (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Rosenberg 2010 – Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch, Göttlesbrunn (94 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Xur 2010 – Weingut Werner Achs, Gols (94 Falstaff-Punkte)

Merlot

1. Merlot Bärnreiser 2010 – Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl, Göttlesbrunn (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Merlot Rotundo 2010 – Weinbau Gottschuly-Grassl, Höflein (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Merlot Reserve 2010 – Weingut Anton Bauer, Feuersbrunn (92 Falstaff-Punkte)

Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl

The Netzl Estate is located in the small town of Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum. The family has been involved in wine production since 1820. Weimgut Christine and Franz Netzl is regarded as one of those responsible for the red wine boom in Austria.

The vineyard area totals 26 hectares, with holdings in the Aubühel, Bärnreiser, Haidacker, Holzweg, Kräften and Neuberg sites. 80% of the area is planted with the red varieties Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, while the remaining 20% is planted with the white varieties Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Welschriesling. A bottle-fermented sparkling wine is also produced. Annual production is around 80.000 bottles of wine, which includes the wine made from grapes on the market, equivalent to about 5 hectares.

See more:
Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria
Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Pinot Noir

1. Pinot Noir Holzspur 2010 – Weingut Johanneshof Reinisch, Tattendorf (93 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Pinot Noir Reserve 2010 – Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch, Göttlesbrunn (93 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Pinot Noir Best of 2010 – Winzerhof Landauer-Gisperg, Tattendorf (93 Falstaff-Punkte)

St. Laurent

1. St. Laurent Reserve 2010 – Weingut Hans und Philipp Grassl, Göttlesbrunn (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. St. Laurent Reserve 2010 – Weingut Juris, Gols (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. St. Laurent Zagersdorf 2010 – Weingut Rosi Schuster, St. Margarethen (92 Falstaff-Punkte)

Syrah

1. Syrah 2010 – Weingut Toni Hartl, Reisenberg (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Syrah 2010 – Weingut Erich Scheiblhofer, Andau (92 Punkte Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Syrah Schüttenberg 2010 – Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl, Göttlesbrunn (92 Punkte Falstaff-Punkte)

Zweigelt

1. Schwarz Rot 2010 – Schwarz Wein, Andau (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
2. Zweigelt Salzberg 2010 – Weingut Vinum Pannonia Allacher, Gols (92 Falstaff-Punkte)
3. Zweigelt Haidacker 2010 – Weingut Franz und Christine Netzl, Göttlesbrunn (92 Falstaff-Punkte)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Dinner with Wine Maker Gerhard Wohlmuth sen., his Wines and the Food of Steierland’s Chef Ruth Stelzer, Austria

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2010

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2011

Austria’s Best Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff WeinGuide 2012

Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011

Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron, Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland

The 5th annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore in Maryland (May 14, 2013) was a day about Maryland wine. Interesting panel discussions in the morning were followed by a luncheon with Maryland wines and a grand tasting featuring the wines of Maryland’s top winemakers in the afternoon.

Picture: At the Tremont Hotel

Thanks to Kevin Atticks, Executive Director of the Maryland Wineries Association along with Marketing Director Briana Berg and Events Director Jade Ostner, for an outstanding conference.

Wine in the USA

The USA has become the 4th largest wine producing country in the world, after France, Italy, and Spain (and the largest wine consuming country in the world). Wine is now produced in all 50 States, with California, Washington State and Oregon leading the way. However, some states outside the Northwest do not grow vitis vinifera grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay easily, and some wineries in the smaller wine-producing states buy juice or grapes from other states. For reviews of wines from all 50 states go to here for an excellent Time Magazine article.

Wine in Maryland

Blue crabs are iconic in Maryland (see below), but few wine/food aficionados know premium wines from Marylandof. In fact, Maryland has long had the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world.

Picture: Map of Maryland

As Drew Baker of Old Westminster Winery explained to Frank Morgan, a popular wine blogger, “Maryland has great potential and I believe that the quality bar is rising quickly. Soon, poorly made wines will be the exception in an otherwise great region.” Old Westminster Winery, led by the three siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli, who manage the vineyard, winemaking, and marketing, respectively, has not yet released any wines, but is already generating a buzz. Other promising newcomers include Black Ankle, Slack, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Port of Leonardtown. Add to that the Maryland classics Boordy, Basignani and Elk Run, to name a few.

Maryland’s modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of the state’s 60 plus wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains: (1) A majority of the state’ vineyards are planted in Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland. (2) The Chesapeake Bay has always been among my favorite regions, but the Eastern Shore is also a fantastic growing region. The soil is sandy and well-drained, and the climate is moderated/protected by the water, perfect for warm days and cool nights. (3) In the Southern Plain in southern Maryland it can get rather hot. And stay hot during the night. Barbera, Sangiovese, and Chardonnay dominate. (4) Western Maryland is mountainous, and while there are only two wineries, there’s a number of vineyards.

Maryland Blue Crabs

Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack. Unfortunately, Maryland’s delicious seafood was on the backburner during the conference.

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

Picture: Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Soft Shell Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay is famous for its soft-shell blue crabs. As crabs grow larger, their shells cannot expand, so they molt the exteriors and have a soft covering for a matter of days when they are vulnerable and considered usable. Crabs caught just after molting are prepared as soft shell crabs: first cutting out the gills, face, and guts; the crab is then battered in flour, egg, and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy. The entire crab is consumed, legs and all.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller eating Soft Shell Crabs

Crab Cake

Crab cakes is another delicacy. Crab Cakes are basically Hamburgers made out of crab meat. We ate it recently as a starter with tomatoes and avocado on the side.

Picture: Maryland Crab Cake

See more:
Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crab Soup

Usually I start my crab dinner with a Maryland Crab Soup. This is a kind of an Italian Minestrone with crab meat.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

Drink Local Wine 2013: The Panel Sessions

About 150 bloggers, journalists and wine lovers attended the conference.

Picture: At the Tremont Hotel

Session I 9:00 am – 9:45 am: Creating Maryland’s Wine Identity (Tremont Hotel)

Moderator: Carlo DeVito, author of East Coast Wineries: A Complete Guide from Maine to Virginia published by Rutgers University Press.

Panelists: Robert Deford, owner, Boordy Vineyards; Marguerite Thomas, author, Touring East Coast Wine Country; Dr. Joe Fiola, Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture & Natural Resources, University of Maryland.

This session took a look at Maryland’s wine industry. Dr. Fiola believes that the future of the Maryland wines lies with the Bordeaux varieties, Chambourcin, Chardonnay, Barbera, Sauvignon Blanc and Albarino.

Session II 10:00 am – 10:45 am: Drinking Local (Tremont Hotel)

Moderator: Dave McIntyre, Washington Post wine columnist, Drink Local Wine co-founder.

Panelists: Jerry Pellegrino, chef, Waterfront Kitchen; Jade Ostner, Director of Events, Maryland Wineries Association; Al Spoler, co-host, Cellar Notes/Radio Kitchen, WYPR Radio.

Do Marylanders appreciate their home-grown wine, and if not, how to get the message out.

Session III 11:00 – 11:45 am: Maryland’s New Guard (Tremont Hotel)

Moderator: Kevin Atticks, executive director, Maryland Wineries Association.

Panelists: Ed Boyce, founder, Black Ankle Vineyards; Tom Shelton, owner and winemaker, Bordeleau Vineyards & Winery; Dave Collins, co-owner, Big Cork Vineyards.

Lunch 12:00 – 1:15 pm

Session IV 1:30 – 2:15 pm: Tasting Maryland’s Future (Tremont Hotel)

Moderator: Joseph A. Fiola, Ph.D, Specialist in Viticulture and Small Fruit, University of Maryland Extension

Dr. Fiola’s viticulture and enology program concentrates testing the varieties imported from the fine winegrowing areas of the word that have climates similar to the diverse regional climates of Maryland.

He poured three pairs of wines: two whites, two reds, and two dessert wines that are made from grapes he has been conducting research trials with.

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off: 3:00 pm – 6:00 pm (The Warehouse at Camden Yards)

Picture: At The Warehouse at Camden Yards

The Twitter Taste-Off was the grand finale of the DLW Conference. Held at The Warehouse at Camden Yards, it featured 20 Maryland wineries. 425 wine enthusiasts, vintners and bloggers came to taste Maryland wines and learn more about the local industry.

“Of course, Drink Local Wines is always a social media event and our tweets and updates quickly became the leading trend on Twitter — above even Tiger Woods and his two-stroke penalty at the Masters or Kobe Bryant’s ruptured Achilles tendon,” writes DrinkLocalWine.com co-founder Dave McIntyre on his blog. “We realized something was happening when advertisements began popping up on #dlw13 and #mdwine.”

Twitter Taste-off Winners

The winners were:

White: Black Ankle for its 2011 Albarino

Picture: Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle

Red: Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards for its 2010 EVOE, a Bordeaux-style blend

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, and Michael McGarry, Sugar Loaf Vineyard, Co-Owner

Other: Millstone Cellars for its Ciderberry, a tasty cider made of Rome Beauty and Stayman Winesap apples and flavored with raspberries.

Drink Local Wine Conferences: 2009 to 20013

The Drink Local Wine goal is to spotlight wine made in the 47 states and Canada that aren't California, Washington, and Oregon. It's the brainchild of Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre and wine blogger Jeff Siegel, the Wine Curmudgeon. The current president is Michael Wangbickler (Through the Bunghole).

So far, 5 annual conferences have taken place:

in Dallas featuring Texas wine in 2009,
in Loudoun County featuring Virginia wine in 2010,
in St. Louis featuring Missouri wine in 2011,
in Denver featuring Colorado wine in 2012, and
in Baltimore featuring Maryland wine in 2013.

This was my third DLW conference; I participated in the Virginia and Missouri conferences and have written about them on schiller-wine.

For Virginia, see:
The 2010 DrinkLocalWine Conference in Virginia, US

For Missouri, see:
Drink Local Wine Conference 2011 in St. Louis: The World of Missouri Wine
Wine Producer Missouri– Once a Major Force in the US Wine Market, Then Non-existant and Now on a Rebound with French American Hybrid Grapes

Picture: Reiner Flick, Weingut Joachim Flick, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Hochheim

Weingut Joachim Flick in Floersheim-Wicker near Hochheim in the Rheingau was recently successfully FairChoice – which falls into the group of sustainable winemaking - certified. This posting profiles Weingut Joachim Flick.

“Green” Winemaking

There are many winemakers with an ecological mindset. These “green” winemakers, however, come in different colors. I recently tasted the Santa Julia wines of Familia Zuccardi, a winery that produces mass wines in Argentina with organic grapes. Argentina, in general, is very well suited for organic winemaking. The Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley produces wine according to the natural wine concept in the midst of the city of Berkeley without owning any vineyards.

Picture: Reiner Flick, Weingut Joachim Flick

Recently in Pamhagen in Austria in the stone cave below the winery with Werner Michlits of Weingut Meinklang, where Werner showed us his magic cow poop and other ingredients for biodynamic farming, I felt at the forefront of winemaking with an ecological mindset. “We practice sustainable agriculture in the vineyard” said Yann-Leon Beyer when I visited Domaine Leon Beyer in Alsace in France. The Leon Bayer bottles, however, do not carry a sustainability certificate.

For a primer on “green” winemaking see:
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Sustainable Winemaking

According to the University of California, sustainability in agriculture: “…integrates three main goals--environmental health, economic profitability, and social and economic equity. Sustainability rests on the principle that we must meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. Therefore, stewardship of both natural and human resources is of prime importance.”

Although nowhere defined by law, there are many certifications available for “Sustainable Wine” in the world, including “FairChoice” in Germany. In general, the “New World” is considerably ahead of the “Old World” in terms of sustainable practices.

Hochheim in the Rheingau

Weingut Joachim Flick is in Hochheim (Floersheim-Wicker) in the Rheingau region. Hochheim is at the eastern edge of the Rheingau, well known around the world for its Riesling wines. Moving from Hochheim to the west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition.

Picture: Map of the Rheingau

Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock. The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines in Hochheim to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Even though it belongs to the Rheingau, Hochheim is actually situated along the Main River. Its vineyards have amongst the best exposure and climate in all of the Rheingau. Hochheim is just 30 Minutes away by S-Bahn from Frankfurt am Main central railway station. Coming from Frankfurt, you arrive in vineyards and it is a beautiful walk up through the vineyards to the village.

Weingut Joachim Flick

Weingut Joachim Flick is owned and run by Reiner Flick. The vineyard area totals 19 hectares with Riesling accounting for 85%. Annual output is 12.000 cases. Weingut Joachim Flick has been a member of the VDP since 1999.

Pictures: Weingut Joachim Flick

Excellent Vineyard Portfolio

The vineyard portfolio of Weingut Joachim Flick is outstanding and includes the 2 monopolistic sites, Wickerer Nonnberg and Hochheimer Königin Victoriaberg.

Wickerer Nonnberg (solely owned) – the vineyard was mentioned for the first time, when the Abbey of Retters in the Taunus Mountains exchanged vineyards with the Abbey of Tiefenthal in the Rheingau on January 13, 1281. Later, it was owned by the Herzogtum Nassau. Since 2004, Weingut Flick owns the vineyards.

Hochheimer Königin Victoriaberg (solely leased) – since 2010, Weingut Flick leases the entire Koenigin Victoriaberg in Hochheim. Queen Victoria visited Hochheim in 1845 and was treated to a winetasting at the “nicest and best vineyard”. Five years later, the British Queen granted the owner of the vineyard the right to name the vineyard Queen Victoria Vineyard.

Picture: Hochheimer Königin Victoriaberg (in the center) and other Wines from Hochheim

See also:
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Weingut Joachim Flick Succesfully FairChoice Certified

A rigorous assessment of the approaches and methods of Weingut Joachim Flick by an independent company, DLG TestService, took place in January 2013. All requirements of the sustainability program set forth by FairChoice were met. The testing criteria include: carbon footprint management, proof of fair treatment of employees, business partners, and customers, successful operating figures, and the fulfillment of a catalog outlining ecological criteria.

Pictures: In Duesseldorf, Certification Ceremony

Professor Armin Gemmrich of the German Wine Institute for Sustainable Development at University of Heilbronn stated “at the Flick Winery, everything is in top condition and serves as a great exemplary model.” He went on “a positive point to take note of is the marginal greenhouse gas emissions through the usage of organic fertilizers. Weingut Joachim Flick entirely avoids utilizing synthetic mineral fertilizers which are produced through heavy energy usage. In a larger general frame of wine production, there are other topics at hand such as the glass bottles or Bag-in-Box which offer an area for improvement.”

Picture: FairChoice Label

Weingut Joachim Flick is the first member of the VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) to have undergone and passed the arduous and comprehensive testing.

Reiner Flick: “With the 2012 vintage, our winery is now FairChoice certified. Our conducts at the winery are ecologically compliant, socially lawful, and economically bearing for the well-being of future generations to come. The future generations are indubitably entitled to a livable existence in which the preceding generation is responsible for. Exhaustive cultivation in the vineyards yields only temporary success. As winemakers, we are completely aware that the foundation of our lives lies heavily in the vineyards.”

Headwind (Gegenwind)

Recently in Hochheim, I had the chance to taste the 2011 Gegenwind (Headwind) wine, a joint venture of Gunter Kuenstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler and Reiner Flick, Weingut Joachim Flick. This is their contribution to a citizen movement in the Frankfurt am Main area “against the unbridled exploitation of culture and nature” as Reiner Flick put it and “in particular, against the expansion of the Frankfurt Airport.”

Picture: Joachim Flick, Christian G.E. Schiller and Headwind/Gegenwind

Recently, a third landing strip was opened and the resulting increased noise in the Hochheim area from aircrafts landing at and taking off from Frankfurt Airport triggered the decision to make this wine and to contribute the proceeds to the non-profit organization Gegenwind 2011 Rhein-Main.

For more see:
Headwind (Gegenwind)– A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature Vendredi du Vin #52: Soyez Coopératif! – Vent Contraire: un Vin de Protest

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Judging at the ECOVIN Ecowinner 2012 Contest in Oppenheim, Germany

Blogging for Organic Wine – New Ways of Wine Experience: The Organic Wines of Oekoweingut Hubertushof at Prowein 2012 in Germany

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green" Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine

Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

Visiting Yann-Leon Beyer at Maison Leon Beyer in Eguisheim in Alsace

“Hoffest” (Winery Party) at Weingut Heinrich Baison in Hochheim, Rheingau - Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winner

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany dies at Age 84

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Christian G.E. Schiller Leads Tasting of US-American Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Headwind (Gegenwind)– A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

Vendredi du Vin #52: Soyez Coopératif! – Vent Contraire: un Vin de Protest

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim and Silvia Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger. Joachim Heger won the Eichelmann Best Red Wine Collection Award; Joachim Heger is also the Gault Millau WeinGuide 2013 Winemaker of the Year

See more:
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

There are 3 influential wine guides in Germany: the Eichelmann and the GaultMillau, followed by the Feinschmecker.

The 2013 Eichelmann Wine Guide Deutschland was released in November 2012.

The Eichelmann uses a scale of 1 to 5 stars. I have already reported about the 5- star-producers in the Eichelmann Wine Guide Deutschland 2013, it is a group of 28 winemakers.

Picture: Gerhard Eichelmann at the 2012 VDP.Grosses Gewaechs Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, sitting just behind me

See:
Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Here are the special awards of the Eichelmann Wine Guide Deutschland 2013.

Best White Wine Collection of the Year: Weingut Rainer Sauer (Franken)

“If you like Silvaner, go to Escherndorf and visit Rainer Sauer” said Gerhard Eichelmann.

Best Red Wine Collection of the Year: Joachim Heger and his Weingut Dr. Heger (Baden)

Gerhard Eichelmann: “Year after year, Joachim Heger makes fascinating Pinot Noir wines, both from the Ihringer Winklerberg and the Achkarrer Schlossberg. In the last few years, they had even more finesse and have become even more complex, more Burgundian.”

Best Collection of Noble-Sweet Wines of the Year: Thomas Haag and his Weingut Schloss Lieser (Mosel)

Gerhard Eichelmann: “Outstanding, fascinating wines with a lot of finesse and elegance, very complex and never ending on the palate.”

Rising Star of the Year: André Landgraf’s and his Weingut Landgraf (Saulheim, Rheinhessen)

Gerhard Eichelmann: “André Landgraf’s organic wines are a good example of the general upswing in the Rheinhessen region”.

Wine Classics (A wine of high quality, which shows year after year a clear profile)

Morstein Grosses Gewaechs Riesling of Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Philipp Wittmann in Mainz

Best Riesling 2002 (Re-tasted after 10 Years)

Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese trocken, Weingut Emrich-Schönleber (Nahe)

Best Other Red Wine 2002 (Re-tasted after 10 Years)

Lemberger trocken "S", Weingut Dautel (Württemberg)

Best Pinot Noir 2002 (Re-tasted after 10 Years)

Spätburgunder "R" Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg, Weingut Paul Fürst (Franken)

Picture: Paul Fuerst, Weingut Rudolf Fuerst, at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany. The 2009 Weingut Rudolf Fürst Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs was ranked #4 overall and was #2 of the German wines at a now famous Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Tasting in London, where German wines performed very strongly: The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Stong Performance

Previous Years’ Eichelmann Wine Guide Deutschland

Best German Wines - Eichelmann Wine Guide 2012 Awards, Germany

Wine ratings: German wine --- Eichelmann 2010

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope) in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Picture: Ernst Loosen and his Dr. L at Rasika in Washington DC

Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had a chance to meet him and taste his wines several times. A highlight was a tête-à-tête dinner at the trendy Indian fusion restaurant Rasika, where Ernst also poured his hugely popular Dr. L Riesling. Ernst Loosen is a charismatic figure and has done loads for promoting German Riesling around the world.

Picture: Rasika in Washington DC

This is the first posting in a series of 3 postings: (1) Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World, (2) Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC and (3)Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Weinrallye # 62: Not more than Euro 5

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Not More Than 5 Euros”. Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. This month's wine rally is organized by Nico Medenbach, who runs the wine blog “Drunkenmonday”.

Picture: Weinrallye

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s entry level wine, hugely popular all over the world, but virtually unknown in Germany. The lowest price according to wine searcher is $8.89, which equals about Euro 6.60 at the current exchange rate, i.e. a bit more expensive than the Euro 5.00 criterion.

Picture: Dr. L

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State. At the dinner at Rasika, we tasted and focused on Rieslings from the Mosel Valley and Pinot Noirs from Oregon.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Rasika telling a story

Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley

The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Dr. Loosen

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market. So, it was not a surprise that during his stay in Washington DC, Ernst Loosen presented also is dry Red Slate wine as well as Grosses Gewaechs wines – the ultra-premium dry wines from Germany. “But while in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewaechs wines are very high in demand. Here in the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst.

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst explained to us that his wines can be grouped into 3 quality categories.

Single Vineyard Wines

These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995). “We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Ernst said.

Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines – ultra premium dry wines from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Treppchen.

Picture: Ernst Loosen at Rasika

Ernst explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.

See:
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Estate Wines

All the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.

The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.

Dr. L

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine (more on it see below).

Ernst Loosen in Oregon

Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at the J. Christopher Winery

Jay Somers and Ernst Loosen met years ago, and quickly realized that they shared a similar taste and passion for Pinot Noir. Their friendship led to a partnership, and in 2010, they began building a winery and vineyard in Newberg, Oregon. As winemaker for the joint venture, Jay is in charge of all winery operations. Ernst sees his role as that of an investor who both supports the growth of the brand and broadens the winery’s exposure to Old World ideas and techniques.

Loosen Christopher Wines LLC produces wines under the J. Christopher brand. The venture purchased a 40-acre property for a new vineyard and J. Christopher Winery on Hillside Drive in Newberg, Oregon. Planting of the first block of Pinot Noir began last year. The first phase of the winery construction, the barrel cellar construction, occurred before the 2010 harvest. When I visited the winery with Tim Malone, the Phase II construction had just begun. At full build-out, the winery will have a production capacity of 8000 cases of Pinot Noir and 2000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc and other white wines.

See:
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz

In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.

The Pfalz region lies between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River, directly north of France’s Alsace region. As in Alsace, the mountains protect the area from harsh Atlantic weather, making it one of the warmer and drier areas of Germany. In this climate, achieving full ripeness is possible in nearly every vintage. Mature, fully ripened fruit is the key to making concentrated dry-style wines that have enough body to balance the naturally high acidity.

Ernst Loosen in Washington State

Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.

See:
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA

Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.

Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland) and
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon).

Dr. L – Ernst Loosen’s Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine produced for a global market. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

Pictures: The tête-à-tête dinner at Rasika was with Washington Post Wine Columnist Dave McIntyre and me. We were later joined by Rasika Somelier Paul Ruttiman and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy. Indeed, the forthcoming Germany trip of Annette Schiller includes a wine tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley.

See:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

The wine has 8.5% alcohol and is off-dry. The lowest price according to wine searcher is $8.89, which equals about Euro 6.60 at the current exchange rate. The average score on cellar tracker is 87.7 (of 100) points.

Here are the tasting notes of Natalie MacLean, the well known wine journalist from Canada: “ Dr. L is the exceptional entry-level Mosel Riesling made by the dynamic Ernst Loosen. If you are a Riesling newbie, this is an excellent place to begin. It shows all the bright fruitiness and refreshing acidity one should expect from the grape. Wrapped up in a very easy-drinking style, it can be enjoyed as a sipper or as a very versatile food partner. My note: This is a favorite of so many people I know and for good reason: packed with flavor, floral notes and melon essence. Light- to medium-bodied and low in alcohol. Food matches: mildly spiced seafood pasta dish.”

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Robert B. Deford, President, at Bordy Winery in Maryland

In connection with the 5th annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore in Maryland, USA (May 14, 2013), about 40 wine bloggers, columnists and writers toured wine country Maryland. I have reported about it here:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Blue crabs (see below) are iconic in Maryland. Few food and wine aficiniados, however, would point to premium wines, when talking about Maryland; instead, Maryland has the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are very successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world. As Drew Baker of the brand-new Old Westminster Winery explained to Frank Morgan, a popular wine blogger, “Maryland has great potential and I believe that the quality bar is rising quickly. Soon, poorly made wines will be the exception in an otherwise great region.” Old Westminster Winery, led by the three siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli, who manage the vineyard, winemaking, and marketing, respectively, has not yet released any wine, but is already generating a buzz. Other promising newcomers include Black Ankle, Slack, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Port of Leonardtown. Add to that the Maryland classics Boordy, Basignani and Elk Run, which are in the process of changing gears.

Vendredi du Vin #55 : "Le vin contre-pied"

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by David Faria from the “le bicéphale buveur”. The subject of this month’s vendredi du vin is: "Le vin contre-pied" - Un vin vous a dérouté, bougé vos certitudes, a pris votre palais à contre-pied...

Picture: Vendredi du Vin

Why a tour of Maryland’s wineries under this heading? Well, most people, even those who live in Maryland, would not expect to be served premium wines when going on a winery tour in Maryland. We visited 3 wineries and in each of them, we were poured premium wines, in one case made by a French winemaker. Thus, … le vin de Maryland m’ a dérouté, bougé mes certitudes, a pris mone palais à contre-pied...

Wine in the USA

To put this into perspective, the USA has become the 4th largest wine producing country in the world, after France, Italy, and Spain (and the largest wine consuming country in the world). Wine is now produced in all 50 States, with California, Washington State and Oregon leading the way. However, some states outside the Northwest do not grow vitis vinifera grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay easily, and some wineries in the smaller wine-producing states buy juice or grapes from other states. For reviews of wines from all 50 states go here for an excellent Time Magazine article.

Wine in Maryland

Maryland’s modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of Maryland’s 60 plus wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains: (1) A majority of the state’ vineyards are planted in Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland. (2) The Chesapeake Bay has always been among my favorite regions, but the Eastern Shore is also a fantastic growing region. The soil is sandy and well-drained, and the climate is moderated/protected by the water, perfect for warm days and cool nights. (3) In the Southern Plain in southern Maryland it can get rather hot. And stay hot during the night. Barbera, Sangiovese, and Chardonnay dominate. (4) Western Maryland is mountainous, and while there are only two wineries, there is a number of vineyards.

Picture: Maryland

Maryland Blue Crabs

Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack. Unfortunately, Maryland’s delicious seafood was on the backburner during the conference.

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

We began our tour by visiting Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyards.

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard is only a 45 minute drive from Washington, DC. The 92-acre farm abuts the scenic Sugarloaf Mountain conservation and recreation area. The winery is easily identifiable by its signature red barn, silo and windmill, built in the early 1900s.

Pictures: Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard

Purchased by Dan and Polly O'Donoghue in 1962, the farm has been a working farm and family retreat ever since. Today, it is owned and operated by their four children – the McGarry, McKenna and two O’Donoghue families. The transformation from a traditional farm to a vineyard broke ground in 2002. A wine making team was formed, and soon vines were planted and being nurtured. By 2005, the winery was complete and Sugar Loaf Mountain was making its first vintage.

Pictures: Dave McIntyre from the Washington Post and Michael McKenna and Michael McGarry, both Co-owners of Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard

In 2011, Benoit Pineau took over the wine-making responsibilities. He hails from France and has been educated in oenology and viticulture in Bordeaux and Toulouse. As of January, 2013 Manolo Gomez has become the official winemaker, with Benoit Pineau the consultant winemaker.

Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard specializes in Bordeaux style wines. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot; and three white varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Viognier.

The Wines we tasted:

2011 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, Pinot Grigio, $19

100% Pinot Grigio which was aged for 6 months in stainless steel. Alcohol 13.0%.

2011 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, Circe, $24

This wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, and 7% Merlot which was aged 5 months in 20% new French oak. Alcohol 12.5%.

2011 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, Comus $26

This wine is a blend of 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec which was aged 12 months in 25% French oak. Alcohol 13.0%

2010 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, Evoe! $39

This wine is a blend of 51% Cabernet Franc, 22% Petit Verdot, 16% Merlot, and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon which was aged 24 months in 25% new French oak. Alcohol 14.5%.

Black Ankle Vineyards

The second stop was Black Ankle Vineyards. We were visiting Black Ankle Vineyards to both taste wine and to eat lunch catered by the Woodberry Kitchen of Baltimore, a restaurant devoted to eating and drinking local. I will prepare a separate posting about the lunch.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyard

Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce (both former management consultants) planted their first vines in 2003 after a lengthy search looking for farms with the worst soil. They succeeded, buying a 142-acre farm on Black Ankle Road in the rolling hills of Carroll County near Mt. Airy.

Black Ankle sets the new standard for what is going on in Maryland wine. Black Ankle has won numerous awards for their wines, including recent Maryland Governor’s Cup Awards.

Ed and Sarah explained that the meager 1 1/2 feet of soil is 60 percent rock with a solid layer of rock below. Although this soil environment would be a nightmare for a farmer planting traditional agricultural crops, it proved perfect for their vision of a world-class vineyard growing vinifera grapes.

Currently, Black Ankle has 42 producing acres. Since Ed and Sarah purchased the property, they have made and applied compost in place of chemical fertilizers and they have never used herbicides of any kind. “Although we are not yet able to farm 100% organically, we are optimistic that with more research and ingenuity we will get there before too long,” say Ed and Sarah. “We have also made the decision to farm with the principles of Biodynamics. Black Ankle’s barrel room holds 300 French oak barrels. It is constructed with hay-bale walls coated with a plaster made from the farm’s earth and wood harvested from their acreage.

The business has been a bit of a juggling act for Ed and Sarah, who have kept their house in Silver Spring and, except at harvest time, alternate days at Black Ankle with working from home. They have five children, one in college and four at home.

The Wines that were poured:

2012 Black Ankle Vineyards, Gruner Veltliner – (Barrel Sample)

2011 Black Ankle Vineyards, Bedlam

This wine is a blend of Albarino, Viognier, Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, and Muscat.

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Rollings Hills

This wine is a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 8% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot which was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. Alcohol 13.6%.

2010 Black Ankle Vineyards, Leaf Stone Syrah

This wine is 100% Syrah which was aged for 18 months in 65% new French oak. Alcohol 14.6%.

NV Black Ankle Vineyards, Terra Dulce II

A fortified wine.

Boordy Vineyards

The tour concluded with a visit and tasting at Boordy Vineyards, which is the oldest commercial winery in Maryland. Boordy was founded in 1945 by Philip and Jocelyn Wagner. The Wagner’s enthusiasm for experimentation and the winery’s rapid growth eventually lead to a partnership with the Deford family who purchased Boordy in 1980. The Defords moved the winery to its present day location at their Long Green Valley farm, just north of Baltimore. The farm has since been placed in permanent preservation with the Maryland Environmental Trust, demonstrating owner Rob’s commitment to agriculture.

Pictures: Boordy Vineyards, Maryland

The winery is currently housed in the ground-floor level of a 19th century barn. Next to the barn a new similarly sized building is going up. The new building will become the home of the winery. As it is purpose-built, future wines will see more gravity and less pumps along with being raised with more accurate temperature control. The original barn will become a barrel cellar.

Boordy produces three tiers of wines: Just for Fun, Icons of Maryland and the Landmark series. The Landmark series is the very best of each vintage year; the Icons of Maryland are designed with food in mind; and the Just for Fun series offers sweet, party wines.

We only tasted Landmark wines. These wines are produced from 100% Maryland fruit of which 95% is estate fruit. The Landmark Project was begun in 2006. It follows the guidance of viticulturist Lucie Morton which initiated a complete replanting of the vineyards. The vineyards were replanted with closer spacing, 1 meter by 8 feet, averaging 1500 vines per acre for all 45 acres.

The Wines we tasted:

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark, Cabernet Franc Reserve – $25

This wine was aged for 18 months in French oak.

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark Reserve – $35

This wine is a blend of 69% Merlot, 19% Syrah, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot which were fermented separately. It was aged for 24 months in French oak.

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark, Merlot Reserve

schiller-wine: Related Postings

At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine

Schiller's World of Seafood

Picture: Thomas Schlumberger and Christian G.E. Schiller at Bistro Lepic, Washington DC

If you want to eat in Washington DC as close as possible to as you would in a restaurant in the countryside in France, you have to go to Bistro Lepic in Georgetown. Not at all fancy food, but good, basic French cuisine.

Pictures: Bistro Lepic

The restaurant is on the ground floor and on the first floor you find a nice lounge area with a bar. Currently, on Monday and Wednesday, Jazz groups are performing in the lounge and on Tuesday, between 6 and 8 am, you have a little wine tasting. This time, the wine tasting was a very special one, because the guest was Thomas Schlumberger from Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace. He presented 4 wines.

Domaines Schlumberger

Domaines Schlumberger is located in Alsace. A family vineyard established in 1810, there are currently two generations working the property side by side: Alain Beydon-Schlumberger (6th generation) and Severine and Thomas Schlumberger (7th generation).

Vineyards

The vineyard is unique in Alsace in that 70 of the 140 hectares are classified as Grand Crus. The vineyards provide the Schlumberger family with 100% of their fruit - they do not buy any fruit or unfinished wines from other growers. Because of the steep hillsides (some with slopes of 50 degrees), animals are used to work the land rather than agricultural machinery.

Pictures: Thomas Schlumberger, Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy

“We farm sustainably. We signed the Tyflo Charter in 2003. 30 hectares are in biodynamic farming. From generation to generation, the respect of nature and environment has always been an essential element of the way of life and philosophy of the family Schlumberger” said Thomas.

Vinification

“We have 120 old oak casks. They are equipped with thermoregulation systems and are the best combination between tradition and innovation. We also have 80 stainless steel vats” said Thomas.

The Schlumberg Portfolio

Les Princes Abbés: The classic range is called "Les Princes Abbes" in homage to the Princes Abbots who have maintained and made their vineyard of Guebwiller thrive for 1,000 years.

Les Grands Crus: The jewels of the Domaines Schlumberger; the Grands Crus offer 3 varieties: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer.

The grand cru classification was done in 1983 by the “Institut National des Appellations d’Origine” (INAO). Initially, only 25 Grands Crus existed, including the 4 of Guebwiller; 25 other Grands Crus were classified in 1992.

Picture: Thomas Schlumberger

Les Cuvées de Collection: Coming from Late Harvest or from Selection de Grains Nobles (noble roots), these wines are only produced in exceptional years.

History

The Schlumberg family comes from Germany. Claus Schlumberger was the first to settle in Guebwiller in the XVI century during the period of the monks “The Princes Abbés”.

Under Ernst Schlumberger (1885-1954), the phyloxera destroyed the whole vineyard. He replanted it and then enlarged the vineyard from 40 hectares to 110 hectares.

The Wines Thomas Poured

2011 Pinot Blanc Les Princes Abbés

A blend of 70% Pinot Blanc and 30% Pinot Auxerrois. Sur lee aged 7 months. Residual sugar: 2 grs/l

Lemon yellow in the glass, light green reflections, floral and fruity notes on the nose, fresh structure, citrus fruits, lime, sweet almond on the palate, good finish.

2008 Riesling Les Princes Abbés

Sur lee aged 6 to 8 months. Held in stainless steel for 12 to 18 months. Residual sugar: 2,2 grs/l

Yellow with green reflections in the glass, earthy notes with a hint of fruitiness on the nose, medium intensity on the palate with notes of candied fruits, quince, a hint of bitterness on the finish with a nice length.

2009 Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés

100% Pinot Gris. Sur lee aged 8 month. Residual sugar: 10.5 grs/l

Light yellow with straw reflections in the glass, earthy scents and a hint of fruitiness on the nose, good structure, flavors of quince, white flesh fruit and a hint of lemon on the palate, good acidity.

2007 Riesling Grand Cru Saering

Sur lee aged 8 months. Residual sugar: 3,9 grs/l

Lemon yellow in the glass with green reflections, attack of citrus fruits, candied lemon on the nose, coupled with floral hints, on the palate, aromas of lemon peel, spicy ginger, long finish.

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Château Figeac

Château Figeac is in the northwest of the Saint-Émilion appellation, neighboring Château Cheval Blanc. With 40 hectares of vineyards, it is the largest estate in Saint-Émilion. Its grand vin release price for the 2010 vintage was Euro 168 ex-negociant. I recently had the pleasure to spend a few hours at Château Figeac and tour the estate.

Château Figeac

Because of its fine gravel based soil (which is uncommon in the Right Bank), Merlot accounts only for 30 % of the plantings (which is very low by Saint Emilion standards). The Château Figeac grand vin is dominated (70%) by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in equal parts. Château Figeac is known as the most Médoc of the Ste Emilion chateaux.

Pictures: In the Vineyard (2012 Vintage)

Château Figeac is an old estate. It takes its name from a Roman called Figeacus who built a villa here. Today, one can still see a water-supply system dating from the Gallo-Roman period, foundations of buildings from the Middle Ages and defensive walls along with the remains of a Renaissance chateau incorporated into its structure.

Picture: Pomerol from a Distance

Until the late 18th century, Chateau Figeac had been in the hands of one family for almost 500 years. With almost 200 hectares, Chateau Figeac was one of the largest wine estates at the time, but parts were sold and the estate was subdivided several times until 1892, when the Manoncourt family purchased Chateau Figeac. (A sizable chunk which was purchased by the Ducasse family in 1832 formed the nucleus of what would eventually become Cheval Blanc.)

Pictures: In the Cellar

For the past 60 years, Chateau Figeac was been associated with Thierry Manoncourt, who took over the management of the property in 1946, and his wife Marie-France; Thierry Manacourt passed away in 2010. It was under his leadership that Chateau Figeac rose to the front ranks of Saint-Émilion estates. His son-in-law Comte Eric d'Aramon took over the daily running of the estate in 1988. In 1992, Thierry Manacourt divided the business between his 4 daughters, bestowing the larger share on his eldest daughter, Laure.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Chateau Figeac tends to harvest early with a view of retaining freshness. After Haut Brion and Latour, Chateau Figeac was the third estate in Bordeaux to introduce stainless steel tanks; there are now 20 temperature controlled vats, 10 in oak and 10 stainless steel. Since the mid 1970s, Figeac has been aged in 100% new oak. Even Petrus has not used 100% new oak since 1990. The time spent in new oak varies according to the vintage character. The 1997 vintage was aged 12 months, while the 2009 vintage saw new oak for 18 months.

The following wines are produced: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B), La Grange-Neuve de Figeac (second wine) and Chateau Petit-Figeac (bought in 2002 as most of the vineyard was in the middle of their Château Figeac vineyard. The wine is now made at Château Figeac). In total, the Figeac estate amounts to 54 hectares of which 40 are planted with vines. Annual production is 10 000 cases.

The family also owns two other wineries: the nearby Château La Fleur-Pourret (4,5 hectares, Chateau La Fleur Pourret was part of Chateau Figeac many years ago, also bought in 2002), and Château de Millery (just over 1 hectare), in the southern sector of St.-Emilion known as St.-Christophe des Bardes.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours

See also:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Owner: Madame Tierry Manancourt et ses enfants

DG: For many years, Madame Manancourt's son-in-law, Comte Eric d'Aramon, was the DG of Château Figeac, but he was recently replaced by Jean-Valmy Nicolas. In the press release, it was stated: “Jean-Valmy Nicolas aura notamment pour mission aux côtés de Madame Manoncourt et de sa famille de :
• mettre en place une nouvelle Direction Générale,
• impulser une nouvelle stratégie commerciale en resserrant les liens avec la place de Bordeaux,
• renforcer les moyens mis en œuvre au service du rayonnement et de la pérennité familiale de Figeac.”
As part of this effort, in March 2013, Michel Rolland signed a consulting contract with Figeac, with the aim of bringing it up to Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Winemaking: Frederic Faye, Jean Albino

Prices According to wine-searcher (in US $)

2011 106
2010 268
2009 284
2008 99
2007 103
2006 119
2005 164

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Shane Finley from Shane Wine Cellars in California

Winemaker Shane Finley from Sonoma County was in town – the Washington DC area – to present his new wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Shane Finley in 2011 in Virginia

See:
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Shane Finley and Shane Wine Cellars

Shane’s main job is Winemaker at Lynmar in the Russian River Valley. From 2006 through 2012, he made wine at Kosta Browne (winner of Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year award in 2011) while running his own small operation on the side. The quantities are small, but what we tasted was great. This is a very promising winemaker.

Pictures: Shane Finley from Shane Wine Cellars in California

Shane is also a great communicator. Well, he studied English and received a B.A. in English from the Virginia Military Institute. With that, he headed to New York City to take a corporate insurance position. It was in New York where he was bitten by the wine bag. He changed course, and worked as intern for a number of years wineries around the world. Without any formal training in wine, he started at the bottom and began to work his way up.

Pictures: Shane Finley, Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, Christian G.E. Schiller and Al McCosh, Nice Legs (Distributor of Shane Wine Cellars Wines)

He started out as a harvest intern with Copain Wines in 2001. Then, he traveled to Australia to work the 2002 harvest with Torbreck Vintners in the Barossa Valley. From there, he continued his globe-trotting and spent one year in France's Northern Rhone working for Pierre Gaillard in his Cote Rotie, Condrieu and Saint Joseph vineyards. Shane returned to California in the summer of 2003 and resumed working for Copain Wines. 2 years later, he accepted the Assistant Winemaker post at Paul Hobbs winery and in spring of 2006, Shane became Associate Winemaker at Kosta Browne Wines. At the same time, in his spare time, Shane started his own wine production - Shane Wine Cellars.

Pictures: Shane Finley, Shane Wine Cellars

The Wines Shane Poured

Grenache Blanc, CAMP 4 VINEYARD, Santa Ynez Valley, 2012 $29

Sourced from the Santa Barbara County. No new oak, no malolactic fermentation.

The immediate expression of pineapple, Meyer lemon, papaya, and floral notes leap from the glass. A translucent pale color is surrounded by vibrant acidity and focused with nectarine, peach, and stone fruit accents. The mineral finish lingers with hints of grapefruit, Asian pear, and seashells. A very fresh wine.

Rose Ma Fille Sonoma County, 2012 $22

90% Syrah and 10% Grenache. “This was barrel-fermented, had minimal skin contact and did not go through malolactic fermentation.” said Shane. Was 3 months in used oak – no new oak. Shane told us he was aiming for a Tavel style with this wine, and he's done a nice job.

A Rose which reminded me very much of the South of France, fresh, fruity, vibrant acidity with hints of citrus and strawberries on the nose, great summer wine.

Pictures: Shane Finley, Shane Wine Cellars

Pinot Noir "The Charm" Russian River 2011 $47

40% new oak; whole cluster fermentation of 15% of the grapes.

The Charm harnesses dark cherry, rose petal, raspberry, and baking spice notes. Well structured tannins mix seamlessly with supple acidity. In the mid-palate, cranberry, blueberry, plum and dark chocolate tones unfurl. The wine finishes with sandalwood, graphite, and wild berry accents.

Syrah The Villain North Coast 2011 $39

100% Syrah. Whole cluster fermentation.

An immediate attack of infused berry flavors. Ripe elements of boysenberry, blueberry, and kirsch explode from the glass. Pretty floral elements of orange blossom and white rose intermingle with lasting impressions of huckleberry and blackberries. Hints of slate and wet stone accent the potpourri of flavors. The dense and structured palate is accentuated with dark chocolate, white pepper, and lavender.

Syrah Jemrose Vineyard Bennett Valley 2009 $39

A mélange of fruit and spice flows from the glass. Heady white pepper mingles with boysenberry, plum, blueberries, and dark chocolate. Accents of tobacco leaf, violets, and bacon fat mesh with cassis, mint, and green peppercorns. The wine imbues the site. There is freshness and brightness in the glass. This is a California Syrah with a Northern Rhône bent. Asian spices, chewy tannins, and subtle brown sugar hints finish the wine.

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at Hennessey in Cognac

Cognac is a brandy named after the town of Cognac. For a brandy to bear the name Cognac - an AOC - it must meet a number of requirements, as is the case for all AOCs.

The Cognac area extends along the banks of the Charente all the way to the Atlantic coast. The entire Cognac vineyard covers around 80.000 hectares.

Jas Hennessy and Co. - or more simply Hennessy - sells about 50 million bottles of Cognac a year worldwide or more than 40 percent of the world’s Cognac, making it the world's largest Cognac producer. While there are close to 200 cognac producers, a large percentage of Cognac—90% according to one 2008 estimate —is produced by only 4 companies: Courvoisier, Hennessy, Martell, and Rémy Martin.

I had the opportunity recently to tour the Hennessy facilities at the banks of the Charente in Cognac.

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

History of Cognac

The history of Cognac is related to trade. The town of Cognac has always been linked to important international trade routes through the river Charente, which gave the small town easy access to the Atlantic Ocean. During the 16th century, the Dutch merchants used to ship salt and wine from the Southwestern parts of France to northern European countries. However, they often encountered a problem: the wine would often spoil during the long voyage. To protect the wine, the merchants began to distill it, and they named it Brandewijn or ‘burnt wine.’ This became the forerunner of Brandy.

See:
Cognac– An Introduction, France

History of Hennessy

The Hennessy cognac distillery was founded by Irishman Richard Hennessy in 1765. During the 1970s, Kilian Hennessy, a fifth generation direct descendent of Hennessy, spearheaded the company's 1971 merger with Moët et Chandon, which created Moët Hennessy. Moët Hennessy became part of Louis Vuitton in 1987, creating one of the world's largest luxury brand conglomerates, Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton or LVMH.

Moët et Chandon produces champagne, while Hennessy is into cognac. The two companies became partners in 1971 to form Moët Hennessy. In 1987, Moët Hennessy joined the Louis Vuitton group of Bernard Arnault to become part of LVMH, the world’s biggest grouping of luxury brands.

Hennessy on the Banks of the Charente River

Like most Cognac houses, Hennessy sits on the bank of the Charente River, which before trains and trucks was both a source of water for distillation and a means of transporting bottles of Cognac to the market.

Pictures: Hennessey

The Base Wine

The first step in the production of Hennessy – and of any Cognac – is to make still wine. Charente wines typically have from 7 to 8% alcohol. This wine is quite thin and acid, but good for distillation. Chaptalization is forbidden.

Cognac may be made only from a strict list of grape varieties. If it is to carry the name of one of the crus (see below) then it must be at least 90% Ugni Blanc (known in Italy as Trebbiano), Folle Blanche and Colombard. For other Cognacs, the rules are less restrictive.

There are 6 crus: (1) Grande Champagne - The most prestigious of the crus. (2) Petite Champagne - Cognacs made from a mixture of Grande and Petite Champagne (with at least 50% Grande Champagne) may be marketed as Fine Champagne. (3) Borderies - The smallest cru. Cordon Bleu by Martell is from Borderies. (4) Fins Bois. (5) Bons Bois. (6) Bois Ordinaires - Further out from the four central growth areas are the Bons Bois and the Bois Ordinaires grown regions. Generally used for high-volume production.

Hennessy produces its cognacs from the top four sub-regions of the Cognac district: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, and Fins Bois.

Distillation

Once the base wine is made, the wine is distilled. Distillation in Cognac takes place in traditionally shaped Charentais copper stills. Two distillations must be carried out; the resulting eau-de-vie is a colorless spirit of about 70% alcohol.

In the first stage, the first distillate is obtained, known as the “brouillis”. During the second stage, known as the “la bonne chauffe” the spirit is finally extracted from the liquid. Here, the distiller performs a delicate process called “cutting” by separating the “heart” from the “heads” (alcohol content is too high) and the “tails” (alcohol content is too low).

Picture: Traditionally Shaped Charentais Copper Still

Apart from its three distillers, Hennessy has 19 contracted distillers that own and operate similar equipment. A good number of the 1,400 growers distill their own production.

Aging

That task achieved, the aging process begins and continues somewhat endlessly. I say that because, although each eau de vie batch will be used, a bit at a time, for creating the various final cognac blends destined for the market, the remainder continues to age and evolve until it is all used up.

Some of the oldest batches we got to see at the cellar dated as far back as the mid 1800′s, and all have been used to some extent in the production of Hennessy’s line of cognacs.

Cognac must be aged in oak for at least two years before it can be sold to the public. As the Cognac interacts with the oak barrel and the air, it evaporates at the rate of about three percent each year, slowly losing both alcohol and water. Because the alcohol dissipates faster than the water, Cognac reaches the target 40% alcohol by volume in about four or five years.

Pictures: Aging

It takes nine liters of wine to obtain only one liter of eau de vie after 24 hours of double distillation. What’s more, because of evaporation, only 2/3 of that liter of eau de vie is left after 25 years of maturation time. After 50 years, only one-half is left.

Blending

The last step in the process is blending. Cognac is not really the product of a single distillation and aging, but a skillful blend of many carefully selected eau de vie batches of various vintages.

Down through the years since 1765, behind its closely guarded doors, the Hennessy Comité de Dégustation (tasting committee), unparalleled in the world of cognac, has been creating most unique and elegant blends, thanks to its priceless heritage: the largest and most diverse reserve of eaux-de-vie in the world. Also very special, for 7 generations now, the Comité de Dégustation has been run by the Fillioux family.

Grades

The official quality grades of Cognac are the following. The names of the grades are in English because the British market was long the primary market for cognac.

VS ("very special"), Very Special, or ✯✯✯ (three stars) designates a blend in which the youngest brandy has been stored for at least two years in cask.

VSOP ("very superior old pale") designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is stored for at least four years in a cask.

XO ("extra old") designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is stored for at least six years but on average for upwards of 20 years.

In addition the following can be mentioned:

Napoleon is a grade equal to XO in terms of minimum age, but it is generally marketed in-between VSOP and XO.

Extra designates a minimum of 6 years of age; this grade is usually older than a Napoleon or an XO.

Vieux is another grade between the official grades of VSOP and XO.

Vieille Réserve is, like the Hors d´Âge, a grade beyond XO.

Hors d'âge ("beyond age") is a designation equal to XO, but in practice the term is used by producers to market a high quality product beyond the official age scale.

Portfolio

From the more affordable VS, XO and VSOP, to the top of the line Paradis and Paradis Imperial, Hennessy has a very broad portfolio.

Picture: In the Hennessey Tasting Room

Hennessy V.S

A benchmark in the art of blending, Hennessy V.S is quintessentially Hennessy. It is the world’s most popular cognac of globally recognized quality. V.S is a blend of more than 40 eaux-de-vie.

Hennessy Black

Distinctively smooth.

Hennessy Privilege

The complex and delicate blend of around sixty eaux-de-vie is made distinctive through the subtle presence of several from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. Aged in barrels, which are free from powerful tannins, these eaux-de-vies provide Hennessy Privilege V.S.O.P with its delicate sophistication.

Hennessy X.O

X.O was created in 1870 for the personal consumption of Monsieur Maurice Hennessy, his family and friends.

At Hennessy, X.O is composed of over a hundred old eaux-de-vie, comprised of aged cognacs - some of which are over 30 years old. A long ageing in young Limousin oak barrels helps create a rich and powerful cognac thanks to the tannins in the wood.

Hennessy Paradis

In 1979, Maurice Fillioux created an outstanding blend composed of eaux-de-vie laid down by his grandfather, bringing Hennessy Paradis to life.

Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne form the basis of the Paradis blend. Some of these eaux-de-vie are preserved in the Founder's Cellar. The oldest cognacs date back to the 19th century.

Richard Hennessy

Richard Hennessy represents the soul of the company, a combined work by time and Hennessy expertise. Richard Hennessy was created by Yann Fillioux in 1996 for enlightened connoisseurs.

Richard Hennessy cognac is a blend of over a hundred eaux-de-vie, some drawn from the Founder's Cellar, created in 1774.

Its rarity and quality find full expression through the eaux-de-vie from the 1st part of the 19th century which mainly originate from Folle Blanche, a grape variety replaced by Ugni Blanc following the phylloxera crisis.

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Stuart Pigott in Frankfurt, Germany: Stuart Pigott at the Weinhalle in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung of December 9, 2012, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott published his favorite German wines and favorite German wine makers of the year – in German. This posting provides a summary in English.

For last year's list, see:
Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011)

Stuart Pigott

Stuart Pigott was born in the UK and has lived in Berlin since 1993. Stuart mostly writes in German, and focuses on German wine. Notably, he writes for the specialist magazines Feinschmecker and Weingourmet as well as the Sunday edition of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. He currently spends a lot of time in New York City. If you wan to follow him: Stuart Pigott Riesling Global

Stuart Pigott’s Favorites of 2012

Sommelier of the Year

Ivan Jakir, Restaurant "Essigbrätlein" in Nürnberg

Dry White Wine of the Year

2011er Altenberg Riesling "Großes Gewächs"
27 Euro, Weingut von Othegraven, Weinstraße 1, 54441Kanzem

Sweet Wine of the Year

2011er Bacharacher Riesling Auslese
18 Euro, Weingut Toni Jost; Oberstraße 14, 55422 Bacharach/Mittelrhein

Red Wine of the Year

2009er Pinot Noir "Marion's Vineyard"

Sparkling Wine of the Year

2004er Vintage Brut, Billecart-Salmon

Rising Star of the Year

Stefan Winter, Weingut Winter, Nahe

Winemaker of the Year

Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch.
Weingut Tesch, Naheweinstraße 99, 55450 Langenlonsheim/Nahe weingut-tesch.de

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Martin Tesch in New York City

See:
Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch, Winemaker of the Year (Germany, 2012) - Stuart Pigott/FAZ

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Ernst Loosen at Rasika in Washington DC

Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had a chance to meet him and taste his wines several times. A highlight was a tête-à-tête dinner at the trendy Indian fusion restaurant Rasika. Ernst Loosen is a charismatic figure and has done loads for promoting German Riesling around the world.

This is the second posting in a series of 3 postings: (1) Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World, (2) Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC and (3)Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

See:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State. At the dinner at Rasika, we tasted and focused on Rieslings from the Mosel Valley and Pinot Noirs from Oregon.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Rasika

Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley

The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Rasika

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market. So, it was not a surprise that during his stay in Washington DC, Ernst Loosen presented also is dry Red Slate wine as well as Grosses Gewaechs wines – the ultra-premium dry wines from Germany. “But while in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewaechs wines are very high in demand. Here in the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst.

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst explained to us that his wines can be grouped into 3 quality categories.

Single Vineyard Wines

These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995).

Pictures: Ernst Loosen at Rasika

“We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Ernst said.

Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines from a number of his grand cru vineyards, including Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat and Erdener Treppchen.

Pictures: The tête-à-tête dinner at Rasika was with Washington Post Wine Columnist Dave McIntyre and me. We were later joined by Rasika Somelier Paul Ruttiman and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy. Indeed, the forthcoming Germany trip of Annette Schiller includes a wine tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley.

See:
Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Ernst explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.

Estate Wines

Ernst said that all the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines, are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.

The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.

Dr. L

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

See more:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

Ernst Loosen in Oregon

Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller and Jay Somer's Poncho Luxurio at Portland's White Eagle Saloon

Loosen Christopher Wines LLC produces wines under the J. Christopher brand. The venture purchased a 40-acre property for a new vineyard and J. Christopher Winery on Hillside Drive in Newberg, Oregon. Planting of the first block of Pinot Noir began last year. The first phase of the winery construction, the barrel cellar construction, occurred before the 2010 harvest. When I visited the winery with Tim Malone, the Phase II construction had just begun. At full build-out, the winery will have a production capacity of 8000 cases of Pinot Noir and 2000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc and other white wines.

See:
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz

In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.

The Pfalz region lies between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River, directly north of France’s Alsace region. As in Alsace, the mountains protect the area from harsh Atlantic weather, making it one of the warmer and drier areas of Germany. In this climate, achieving full ripeness is possible in nearly every vintage. Mature, fully ripened fruit is the key to making concentrated dry-style wines that have enough body to balance the naturally high acidity.

Ernst Loosen in Washington State

Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.

Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA

Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.

Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland) and
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon).

What Ernst Poured

2011 Dr. L

This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the racy style of classic Mosel Riesling.

2011 Riesling Dry Red Slate

The 2011 Red Slate Dry has a pronounced, enveloping aroma of slate minerality. There is good impact on the palate, with a nicely lifted mid-palate and a rounded, harmonious structure.

2011 Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett

This wine comes from parcels owned by Weingut Dr. Loosen in the blue slate villages of Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen. It is bright and pure with the classic white peach fruit and floral, flinty minerality that is so typical from blue slate. A plush attack on the mid-palate leads to a deliciously firm, delicate finish. This wine makes an elegant aperitif and is an excellent match for seafood, spicy Asian cuisine and lighter dishes.

2011 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett

Wine and Spirits (93 points): Firm and delicate, this gives the sense of looking from the top of the rocky Treppchen hill, with the scent of herps and wildflowers growing between sun-warmed stones.

2010 Willamete Valley, Pinot Noir, J. Christopher Wines

From a very small crop in a cool vintage, the 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot has great fruit purity and a fine, clean structure. The signature of this vintage is superb balance, with bright, juicy fruit, moderate alcohol and supple tannins all working together in elegant harmony.

2007 Appassionata, J. Christopher Wines

The Wine Advocate: J. Christopher 2007 Pinot Noir Appassionata represents the first, 150-case lot of what proprietors Jay Somers and Ernst Loosen intend will always be released only when they feel it is drinking especially expressively. This year – a challenging one in which to inaugurate a flagship bottling – it came from Bella Vide and Abbey Ridge vineyards. The mingling of game and resinous herbs with lightly-cooked red fruits puts me a bit in mind of the South of France, even if there is certainly admirable buoyancy on exhibit. Low-toned fungal and forest floor suggestions offer more Pinot-typical themes, and faintly grainy tannins add a faint and attractive sense of chew to a finish still possessed of ample primary juiciness. I could well imagine this being worth following for several more years, though there is a faintly nutty, smoky whiff of oxidative development about it, and I expect that its tannins will easily outlast the rest of its features.

2011 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Riesling Spaetlese

Light yellow in the glass, attack of lychee, ripe pear, and honeysuckle flowers notes on the nose, good structure, silky texture with honeysuckle fruit flavors on the palate, combined with a crackling mineral undertone, long finish.

Gosses Gewaechs (Grand Cru) Wines

At Rasika, Ernst did not pour Grosses Gewaechs wines, but a day before I had a chance to taste two of his Grosses Gewaechs wines.

2010 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

Würzgarten means ‘spice garden’ and this wine shows exactly that. White pepper, curry, cumin and other spices dominate the nose. Exotic fruits sweeten it up. Rose and peach petals, exotic spices and acidity showing in the long finish. The acidity is mellow and more integrated.

2010 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

From avery steep parcel of the original Erdener Treppchen vineyard, this penetrating dry wine reflects the muscular minerality that is characteristic of the iron-rich red slate of this site. 92 Points Wine and Spirits

Rasika

Washington Post’s food critic Tom Sietsema says: “When visiting food critics solicit suggestions for where to eat, no matter what hot spot has just ignited in Washington, Rasika tops my list. “There's nothing like this in" New York/Chicago/San Francisco/Houston, my fellow mouths-for-hire all say after tasting the handiwork of chef Vikram Sunderam.”

The Food

We shared a selection of starters and a selection of main dishes.

Starters

My favorite starter was the palak chaat--fried leaves of spinach zigzagged with yogurt and tamarind.

Main Dishes

My favorite main dish was the black cod marinated in honey, dill, star anise, and vinegar.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Château Margaux in Margaux

Château Margaux in Margaux is one of the 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux in the Classification of 1855.

See:
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

History

The history of Château Margaux goes back to the 12th Century, when the property was known as La Mothe de Margaux and owned by various people of noble birth, including Edward III, King of England. It was when the Lestonnac family took charge that premium wine production gained steam. By the end of the 1600s, Château Margaux had expanded to 265 hectares, with 1/3 devoted to producing wine. The impressive First Empire style château that we see today was built by one of Bordeaux' foremost architects, Guy-Louis Combes, when Marquis of La Colonilla acquired the estate in 1804.

Pictures: Château Margaux

In 1977, the property was sold to André Mentzelopoulos – the Greek of Medoc - and the modern history of Chateau Margaux began. Château Margaux passed to his daughter, Corrine Mentzelopoulos, only a few years later, when she was still at a young age.

Pictures: Château Margaux

Château Margaux under Corrine Mentzelopoulos

Under her late father's leadership, a new cellar was built, drainage added and a long-term investment strategy made to secure the property's future. Corinne Mentzelopoulos added a second underground cellar for second-year barrels. Today, the expansion continues. British architect Norman Foster has been commissioned to redesign its cellars, create a new winemaking hall, as well as a subterranean bottle library of previous vintages to be completed by 2015.

Pictures: Château Margaux

Château Margaux

Château Margaux totals 262 hectares, with 87 hectares entitled to the Margaux appellation; 82 hectares are under vine. All four common red Bordeaux varieties are planted: Cabernets Sauvignon (75%), Cabernet Franc (3%), Merlot (20%) and Petit Verdot (2%), whereas the white vineyards are planted solely with Sauvignon Blanc.

Pictures: Château Margaux

The fruit is fermented in large 150-hectolitre oak vats and (since only very recently) stainless steel vessels. The red wines are aged between 18 and 24 months in oak barrels (constructed on-site in the Margaux cooperage), the whites up to six months.

Pictures: Château Margaux

There are typically 13,000 cases of the Grand Vin Château Margaux produced each year and 17,000 cases of the second wine, Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux. The Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux has a production of 3,000 cases and must be sold under the Bordeaux AOC as the cultivation of Sauvignon Blanc does not fall under the directives of the Margaux AOC.

A Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux

Château Margaux always attracts a steady stream of visitors. For those without an appointment, the journey down its magnificent plane-tree-lined drive ends at the bottom—halted on the gravel by vast iron railings beyond which lies what has been described as the "Versailles of the Médoc." For those lucky enough to be expected – as we were - a tour and a tasting in the château's tasting room follows.

Pictures: Toring Château Margaux with Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy.

See for the past year' s and this year's upcoming tours:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Wine Searcher Average Prices

Pictures: Tasting

Grand Vin in US$

2012 465
2011   532
2010 1148
2009 1310
2008   585
2007   552
2006   652
2005 1253

Pavillion in US$

2008   175

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

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An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Alfred Tesseron, Owner of Château Pontet-Canet at Heart's Delight 2013. For more see: Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France. The Bordeaux Tour in September 2013 organized by Annette Schiller (see below) will include an event at Pontet-Canet

Heart’s Delight is an annual four-day celebration in Washington DC, USA, bringing together winemakers, celebrity chefs, gourmands, and wine enthusiasts to raise money for the American Heart Association. The events are not cheap, but high-class and tax deductible (partly). Over the past 12 years, the events have raised over $10 million for the American Heart Association, helping to support research into the number one cause of death in the United States.

Here is an overview of what happened this year, including the main winemakers that were present in 2013.

Heart’s Delight 2013

Tuesday, April 23 was the inaugural United States of Wine tasting reception, showcasing a range of American Wines. The reception included a live auction. Price: US$ 200

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy wine tours, and Anne Cuvelier, Château Léoville Poyferré at Eola in Washington DC. Anne Cuvelier, from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Château Léoville-Poyferré in St. Julien, Bordeaux), was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Events. On the side, Anne Cuvelier organized, assisted by Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, a winemaker dinner at Eola. See: Announcement: Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola on May 1, 2013 in Washington DC. The dinner was $130 plus tax and tip and was sold out within a few days. In 2013, two wine tours by ombiasy are coming up: to Germany (in August) and to Bordeaux (in September): (1) Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013 and (2) Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Picture: Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, Director at Château Clerc Milon, which belongs to the Philippe de Rothschildgroup, at Heart's Delight 2013

Wednesday, May 1 was the United States of Wine celebration showcasing American wine, including a silent and a live auction, followed by a BYO-style collectors dinner celebration at Charlie Palmer Steak. Price: US$ 200 for the United States of Wine celebration and US$ 500 for the BYO-style collectors dinner (plus a bottle of wine)

Picture: Véronique and Bruno Laplane from Château Malartic-Lagravière at Heart's Delight 2013. The estate has belonged to the Bonnie family since 1997, when Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie bought the somewhat underperforming Classified Growth of Graves. Véronique is one of their daughters. Michel Rolland consultants.

Picture: Jean-Louis Carbonnier of Château Palmer at Bistro Cacao in Washington DC in 2012. See more: Château Palmer Vertical with Jean-Louis Carbonnier at Bistro Cacao in Washington DC, USA

Thursday, May 2 offered a series of intimate wine dinners with an international flair in private homes, restaurants, Embassies and Ambassador’s Residences with a host, chef and winemaker at each. Several ambassadors hosted a dinner, including the Ambassador of France. Other dinners took place at restaurants and private homes. Price: Ranging from US$ 2000 to US$ 400

Picture: Julianna Martinelli, Martinelli Winery, Owner and President, at Heart's Delight 2013. Julianna Martinelli is the fourth generation in her family to be involved in the wine business: her great-grandparents began growing grapes in Sonoma County in the late 1800's. The small winery is family owned and operated, and the entire family has been involved in creating its success over the years.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Claude Thibaut, Thibaut-Janisson Sparklers from Virginia. For more see: As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

The Vintner’s Dinner of Friday, May 3 was featured a retrospective of eleven years of Vintners Dinner history, including the wines of Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion, Château Latour and Château Margaux. The evening also included a live auction. The dinner was prepared by Chef Michel Rostang, Restaurant Michel Rostang, Paris. Auctioneer was Jamie Ritchie from Sotheby’s Wine. Price: US$ 15,000 for a table of 8

Picture: Dominique Baly, Owner of Château Coutet, at Heart's Delight 2013. Thomas Jefferson celebrated Château Coutet as the best Sauternes from Barsac during his ambassadorship to France. In 1855, recognized for its continued excellence, the estate was classified as a First Growth.

Saturday, May 4 began with a formal, seated Bordeaux tasting in the afternoon, followed by 2 seminars. During the Grand Tasting Reception in the evening, guests had the opportunity to bid on exclusive travel packages, dining experiences and rare and exceptional wines during the silent and live auctions. It all concluded with a VIP after party. Price: US$ 500 plus US$ 100 for the VIP after party.

Picture: Daina Paulin, Château Haut-Bailly, a Cru Classe de Graves at Heart's Delight 2013.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Rachel Martin, Boxwood Winery. For more see: Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Event Wines

A to Z and Rex Hill Winery
Barboursville Vineyards
Boxwood Winery
Château Climens
Château Coutet
Château Guiraud
Château Haut-Bailly
Château Léoville Poyferré
Château Malartic-Lagravière
Château Palmer
Château Pontet-Canet
Château Troplong Mondot
Chimney Rock Winery
Coeur de Terre Vineyard
Colby Red Wine
Delectus Winery
Domaine Drouhin Oregon
Early Mountain Vineyards
Fisher Vineyards
George Wine Company
Harlan Estate
Martinelli Winery
Meteor Vineyard
Peju Province Winery
Ramey Wine Cellars
Retour Wines
Ridge Vineyards
Tablas Creek Vineyard
Thibaut-Janisson Winery
Vino 50 Selections

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Announcement: Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola on May 1, 2013 in Washington DC

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy wine tours, Anne Cuvelier and Chef Daniel Singhofen at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Anne Cuvelier, from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Château Léoville-Poyferré in St. Julien, Bordeaux), was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Events. On the side, she organized, assisted by Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, a winemaker dinner at Eola. The dinner was $130 plus tax and tip and was sold out within a few days. Calvert Woodley Fine Wine and Spirits graciously supported and promoted this event.

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier, Chef Daniel Singhofen and Sommelier Darlin Kulla at Eola in Washington DC, USA

In 2013, two wine tours by ombiasy are coming up: to Germany (in August) and to Bordeaux (in September): (1) Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013 and (2) Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

The Cuvelier Family in the North of France, in Bordeaux and in Argentina

The story of the Cuvelier family begins in 1804 when Henri Cuvelier set out to share his great passion for fine wine with his friends of the grand bourgeoisie residing in the rich and dynamic towns of the North of France. To this aim, he created Maison de Négoce de Vins Henri Cuvelier in Haubourdin, a wine merchant company whose success continued to develop throughout the 19th century.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferréin St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

100 years later, at the beginning of the 20th century, Paul Cuvelier and his young brother Albert, decided to purchase top quality estates in the Bordeaux area. They bought Château Le Crock in 1903, then Château Camensac in 1912 (which was later sold) and finally the prestigious Château Léoville Poyferré as well as Chateau Moulin Riche in 1920. In 1947, Max Cuvelier opened a second Wine Merchant company in Bordeaux, moving nearer to the family properties.

Two of Max Cuvelier’s children have taken over the family’s activities in Bordeaux: Didier Cuvelier has been running Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Chateau Moulin-Riche and Chateau Le Crock since 1979 and Olivier Cuvelier has been managing the Wine Merchant company H. Cuvelier and Fils in Bordeaux since 1985.

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier greating Guests

The Haubourdin wine merchant company was sold in 2002. The name has remained unchanged and it continues to distribute the Cuvelier estates wines.

In 1998, the Cuvelier family started to branch out to Argentina. Bertrand Cuvelier, the father of Anne Cuvelier, accompanied Michel Rolland in his great Argentine project, which was to become the “Clos de Los Siete” group. Three years later, Jean-Guy Cuvelier decided to join his cousin Bertrand in the joint aim of building a winery and producing fine wines worthy of the family tradition in Argentina.

Château Léoville-Poyferré

The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré – one of the 3 Léoville estates that currently exist - in 1920. The 3 Léoville chateaux are the result of vast property broken up a long time ago. But up until the French Revolution, Léoville was the largest Médoc wine-growing property.

Pictures: Sommelier Darlin Kulla and his colleague from the Blue Duck Tavern, Gene Alexeyev, Annette Schiller, Anne Cuvelier and Ben Gilberti from Calvert Woodley Fine Wine and Spirits

In the beginning, the Cuveliers did not operate their chateaux themselves. This changed in 1979 with the accession of Didier Cuvelier, who at 26 became the first member of his family to take charge of Léoville – Poyferré along with Moulin Riche and Le Crock. Didier Cuvelier put Léoville – Poyferré on the map of wine lovers all over the world. Didier Cuvelier trained as a chartered accountant before passing the DUAD (a university diploma in wine tasting) in 1976.

The Grand Vin is Château Léoville-Poyferré (20.000 cases). The second wine is Pavillon de Poyferré.

Château Le Crock

The first purchase made by the Cuvelier family was their property in St. Estephe, Chateau Le Crock in 1903. Today the vineyards of Château Le Crock cover a total of 32.5 hectares and touch two of the most prestigious châteaus of the appellation, Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Montrose.

In the (annulled) 2003 Classification, Château Le Crock was a Cru Bourgeois Superieur. In the new system, in 2010, Chateau Le Crock qualified for the Cru Bourgeois Label.

Pictures: First Floor, Eola

Chateau Moulin Riche

Chateau Moulin Riche was bought in 1920 by the Cuvelier family. Château Moulin Riche has 49 acres of vines which are planted as follows: 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

Pictures: Second Floor, Eola

Eola, Chef/Owner Daniel Singhofen and Sommelier Darlin Kulla

When President Obama was elected for the second time as President of the United States of America, Todd Kliman from the monthly “Washingtonian” wrote a piece entitled “Where Barack Obama Should Eat Out During His Second Term”.

Pictures: Chef Daniel Singhofen, Eola, Washington DC

One of the recommendations was Eola: “You and Michelle have done well in this category, having already logged meals at Citronelle (now temporarily closed), Tosca, Vermilion, and Komi. The next restaurants on your list should be two Dupont Circle-area gems: Eola and Little Serow. Both are independently owned, with kitchens that are—to put it in political terms—rigorously “on message.” Eola serves a rustic version of contemporary American cooking in a charming rowhouse; Little Serow (from Komi chef Johnny Monis) is a spicy and thrilling tour of northern Thailand.”

Daniel Singhofen came to Washington DC by way of Orlando, his hometown, where he cooked at a couple of well-regarded restaurants before turning in his apron to follow his fiancée, an employee of the World Bank, north in 2007. Sommelier Darlin Kulla worked at the Blue Duck Restaurant, before joining the Eola team as the Sommelier.

For more see:
Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA
Announcement: Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola on May 1, 2013 in Washington DC

The Dinner

Amuse-bouche

Pavillion de Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2010

Wine searcher average price in US$: 36

The second wine of Léoville Poyferré - excellent.

Lamb’s Sweetbreads, fava beans, radish, morels and molasses butter

Moulin Riche, Saint-Julien 2007

Wine searcher average price in US$: 37

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc.

Red-ruby in the glass, notes of mulberry, red currant and mocha on the nose, a medium-bodied wine, flavors of dark berries, cassis, and earth on the palate, tannins are still a bit tight, firm finish.

Terrine of Wild Maine Lobster and Leeks, watercress, caviar and oyster gelee

Le Crock, Saint-Estephe 2009

Wine searcher average price in US$: 33

90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate : A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 7% petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, the wine tips the scales at 14+% alcohol. Dense ruby/purple, with notes of blueberry pie interwoven with charcoal, licorice, some chalky crushed rocks and a distinctive floral note, the wine is succulent, unctuously textured, and fleshy, with low acidity and layers of fruit. A sensational effort from this cru bourgeois, it should drink well for 15-20 more years. As I reported from barrel, this is the best Le Crock ever made. It's about time, since the family that has makes such compelling wines at Leoville-Poyferre, the Cuveliers, also own this little fantasy chateau with its beautifully landscaped grounds, sandwiched between Chateau Montrose and Cos d'Estournel.

Tomato Braised Snails, bacon, kale and puff pastry

Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2005

Wine searcher average price in US$: 136

Deep red garnet in the glass, notes of pepper, cassis and Asian spices on the nose, a mouth filling wine, with firm but suave tannins and a long finish.

Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2006

Wine searcher average price in US$: 87

Deep red garnet in the glass, ripe aromas of currant, milk chocolate and smoky oak on the nose, good structure, lush, sweet with flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate and minerals on the palate, long finish.

Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2008

Wine searcher average price in US$: 87

Deep red garnet in the glass, notes of mulberry, mocha, and spicy oak on the nose, soft on the palate, a pleasure, a very attractive wine.

Dry Aged Pekin Duck Breast, barley, ramps, wild licorice jus

Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2000

Wine searcher average price in US$: 198

Deep red garnet color in the glass, tobacco, cedar, earth, wood, chocolate nose, a big wine, with good tannins and a long finish.

Tomme de Savoie, smoked honey, caraway flatbread, cashews

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA

Announcement: Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola on May 1, 2013 in Washington DC

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Thibaud Mandet, Winemaker of the WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon

Thibaud Mandet, the winemaker of the WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, was in town (Washington DC region) and presented his wines at Open Kitchen in Falls Church.

See also:
A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon – Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne

“Passion for Pinot with a Sense of Place is what defines WillaKenzie Estate, a small family owned winery dedicated to producing Oregon wines with the highest possible expression of Willamette Valley terroir” explained Thibaud Mandet. “WillaKenzie’s Oregon Pinot Noir, Oregon Pinot Gris, Oregon Pinot Blanc as well as small amounts of Oregon Pinot Meunier, Oregon Gamay Noir and Oregon Chardonnay are all produced from fruit grown sustainably on our Willamette Valley Estate and reflect our French heritage.”

Picture: The WillaKenzie Estate

Total production is about 20.000 cases. All wines are made from estate-grown grapes. Bernard Lacroute and Ronni Lacroute are the co-owners of WillaKenzie Estate. They met as graduate students at the University of Michigan. After many years of living on the East Coast and in California, they purchased what they felt to be an ideal Pinot site in 1991: a beautiful 420-acre ranch in Yamhill County, Oregon. They have since divorced, but sharing a passion for Pinot, they continue their collaborative business partnership.

Pictures: Thibaud Mandet, Winemaker of the WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, presenting his Wines

Bernard Lacroute grew up in the Bourgogne in France. He graduated with Master’s degrees in Physics and Electrical Engineering from the French school system. From there, he went off to study Plasma Physics at the University of Michigan, where he met Ronni. After a successful career building computers, then computer companies, Bernard decided to close the loop and return to his roots. WillaKenzie Estate is his dream to make Bourgogne wines in America.

Oregon

Amity Vineyards is in the Willamette Valley, were about two-thirds of Oregon’s wineries and vineyards are. Buffered from Pacific storms on the west by the Coast Range, the valley follows the Willamette River north to south for more than a hundred miles from the Columbia River near Portland to just south of Eugene. But Oregon is not only about Willamette Valley. Oregon’s vineyards span the whole State, rising up and falling over the rolling hills and gentle valleys of more than 12,000 acres (4,858 hectares) of wine grapes. Oregon’s major wine regions are the Willamette Valley, Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, and the Columbia Gorge. Some regions straddle the border between Oregon and the States of Washington and Idaho.

Picture: Oregon's wine regions

Wine was made in Oregon in the 19th century already, when Italian and Swiss immigrants planted wine grapes and started bottling wine. Oregon's wine industry was suppressed during Prohibition. It wasn’t until1961, when Richard Sommer set up shop in southern Oregon and planted Riesling, that the modern Oregon wine industry was borne. Other pioneers include David Adelsheim, Dick Ponzi and Bill Sokol-Blosser. Then the French also came with Domaine Drouhin bringing European sophistication to Oregon. In the past 40 years, Oregon has become one of the country’s top three wine States, with 350 wineries producing an average of 5,000 cases each a year. Most of it is Pinot Noir, but there’s also Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and modest amounts of Riesling and Merlot.

Oregon produces wine on a much smaller scale than its southern neighbor California. Oregon's biggest producer ships only 125,000 cases per year and most produce under 35,000 cases. The State features many small wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. In contrast, E & J Gallo Winery, the US’ largest winery, produces about 70 million cases annually. The majority of wineries in Oregon operate their own vineyards, although some purchase grapes on the market.

Thibaud Mandet

Born in Auvergne, France, Thibaud Mandet completed his graduate diploma from the Faculté d'Oenologie de Bordeaux, then earned his postgraduate degree in bubbly wine making from Reims in Champagne. So, he learned how to make red wine and sparkling wine, then worked in Corsica and Texas, before landing at WillaKenzie Estate in 2000.

Pictures: Thibaud Mandet, Winemaker of the WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon, presenting his Wines

Winemaking

As winemaker at WillaKenzie Estate, Thibaud Mandet shares WillaKenzie's commitment to top quality in the vineyard and the winery and gentle nurturing of the wines to achieve the best expression of the Willakenzie terroir.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Thibaud Mandet, Winemaker of the WillaKenzie Estate in Oregon

Thibaud Mandet: “We combine the best traditional French methods with American innovation to craft wines that are complex, refined, and unique — wines that express the distinctive terroirs of WillaKenzie Estate and our Jory Hills Vineyard located in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Our wines are also a reflection of Oregon’s cool grape-growing climate, with elegance, ageability, and balance as their hallmarks. With every WillaKenzie wine, we focus on bringing forth intense flavors, robust structure, and round supple tannins. All of our wines are produced in limited quantities with sustainability in mind, bringing you an honest reflection of our Willamette Valley, Oregon estate.”

Open Kitchen

Open Kitchen is owned by Hue-Chan and John Karels. "Our Mission" Hue-Chan says "is to create a unique culinary gathering space that celebrates the kitchen and the table as centers of pleasure and community. Open Kitchen is…

A full-service bistro that honors the farm-to-table spirit with seasonally, ingredient-driven menu of handmade, comfort food, using fresh, local and sustainable products as much as possible.

An intimate, fully-equipped, commercial kitchen facility and dining space offering custom-designed, interactive, and engaging private events for business and social gatherings, life celebrations, and chef-instructed, design-your-own cooking classes.

Pictures: Hue-Chan Karels and Annette Schiller. wine tours by ombiasy. In 2013, two wine tours by ombiasy are coming up: to Germany (in August) and to Bordeaux (in September): (1) Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013 and (2) Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

A gourmet market and wine boutique that reflects our philosophy that there is a magical relationship between wines, foods, and human connections. An evolving concept that includes Open Kitchen’s newly launched Wine Club featuring weekly wine tastings, seasonal wine dinners, wine reward program, and wine shop with gourmet snacks and nibbles.

Amid the noise and haste of modern living, Open Kitchen aspirse to provide guests with a culinary retreat for gracious living…a place to relax, unwind and share in the joy of food, wine, and community."

Pictures: Open Kitchen

As its name suggests, the space is pretty much open, with the meal preparation going on in front of your eyes, especially if you snag a counter seat.

The decor of Open Kitchen is modern. When you enter the place, you see the "open kitchen" with the Chef and his team at work. The kitchen is surrounded by a large wooden bar. You have the option to sit at the bar, the dining bistro area, which includes pub style butcher block tables or the fully covered patio.

The Wines Thibaud Poured

Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris

Thibaud Mandet: “At WillaKenzie Estate Winery, we make our Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc white wines in the Alsatian style: lush, rich, and mouth-filling. Our ultimate goal is to produce Oregon white wines that fully express the characteristics of the fruit. For this reason, all of our white wines – with the exception of our Late Harvest Pinot Gris – are made entirely in stainless steel tanks, with no malolactic fermentation and no barrel aging. With the exception of our Late-Harvest Pinot Gris dessert wine, all of our Willamette Valley estate white wines are bottled with screwcap closures.”

Pinot Blanc 2011

Dominant notes of fresh squeezed lemon and tropical fruits give way to fragrant wisteria, jasmine, and rose petal on the nose. This bright and racy Pinot Blanc delivers lemon curd, granny smith apples, kiwi, and juicy blood oranges to the palate. A long finish brings the whole experience together with just a touch of stone fruit and minerals. US$ 27. 800 cases.

Pinot Gris 2011

Creamy pale-gold in color, with estery aromas of fresh pear blossom and juicy green apple. Tropical notes from the nose become bright Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit, cranberry, and orange peel on the palate. The entry is rich and clean building to a slightly tangy, lingering finish. US$ 27.

Pinot Noir

Thibaud Mandet: “The WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noirs are 100% Estate Grown here at our Willamette Valley winery and all are aged in French oak barrels in our underground cellar for at least one year. WillaKenzie wines typically spend another year in the bottle before release. Our goal is to produce Oregon Pinot Noirs that are complex, fragrant, and full-bodied, but with soft and silky tannins. Their styles range from very fruity, feminine, and elegant, to powerful wines with great intensity and structure. WillaKenzie Pinot Noir will improve in your cellar, with many capable of aging for 8 to 10 years and some even longer. We take special pride in our vineyard-designated Pinot Noirs. Their different flavors reflect the diversity of their vineyard locations and clonal selections. Like a family, they have much in common, yet each is distinct.”

Aliette Pinot Noir 2009

Situated on a single, gently sloping southeast-facing hill that ranges in elevation from 570 to 610 feet. The ground has a deep layer of Willakenzie soil on top of harder-to-penetrate sandstone. As a result, the vines have spread their roots deeply and rarely need irrigation. Bernard named this vineyard after his mother, Aliette.

Exceptional bouquet of dried violets, lavender, strawberry and hints of cedar. Balanced, supple and very expressive on the palate, it manages to be light and graceful yet powerful at the same time. Red currant, black cherry, raspberry, tea leaves and earth give this medium-bodied wine layers of complexity that linger on the palate. US$ 54.

Kiana Pinot Noir 2009

This vineyard is named after WillaKenzie Estate Owners Ronni and Bernard Lacroute’s granddaughter Kiana, which is Hawaiian for ‘goddess’. It is situated on a moderately sloped hill at 480 to 570 feet on a well-drained site with a south row orientation.

Intense aromas of strawberry, pie cherry and red currants. On the palate, soft tannins and vibrant acidity lead into flavors of juicy cherry and red raspberry. This elegant wine seamlessly transitions between young red fruit, delicate hints of violet and a touch of toastiness. US$ 54.

Emery Pinot Noir 2009

Named for WillaKenzie Estate Owner Bernard Lacroute’s grandfather Emery, the vineyard is situated on a south-facing bench ranging in elevation from 580 to 720 feet. This site’s layer of topsoil is deeper than in the rest of the estate, resulting in more vigorous vines.

Hints of candied violets, allspice and earth on the nose. This wine is rich, full-bodied and balanced with ample amounts of dark fruit and spice. The round mouthfeel is enlivened by juicy acidity and firmly structured tannins. Intense black fruit and spice linger on the finish. US$ 54.

Pierre Leon Pinot Noir 2009

Pierre Léon was named after WillaKenzie Estate Owner Bernard Lacroute’s father to reflect the more masculine side of the wine. Pierre Léon was one of the two vineyard designated wines that were made from the time the winery opened. Today, WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir Pierre Léon is made from grapes coming from several vineyard sites on the Estate. The primary clones used for Pinot Noir Pierre Léon are Dijon 113 and 115, but also some Dijon 114, 777 and some Wädensvil. Pinot Noir Pierre Léon continues to be a more masculine style of wine, with a firm structure and silky tannins.

Complex aromas of blackberry and red plum follow lively notes of black pepper, clove and forest floor. Red cherries and currants dominate the fruit components in the mouth while flavors of pepper and tobacco also emerge in harmony with the aromas. The texture is rich on entry and glides all the way to an impressively long, lush finish. US$ 49.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

Wine tasting: Soter Wines from Oregon at Out-of-Sight Wines in Vienna, US

Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Meeting Bill Holloran from Oregon and Tasting His Holloran and Stafford Hill Wines

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC

Visit: Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro, Oregon

Meeting American Wine Writer Paul Gregutt in Oregon, USA

Visiting Patrick Reuter and his Dominio IV Winery in McMinnville, Oregon, US

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Meeting Winemaker Dianna Lee and Tasting Her Siduri Wines and Her Novi Family Wines

Meeting Bill Holloran from Oregon and Tasting His Holloran and Stafford Hill Wines

Meeting Glenn and Liz Bartholomew from Oregon and Tasting Their Dominio IV Wines

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller and Anthony Hamilton Russell. Hamilton Russell Vineyards is a producer of outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardoannay wines in the Hemel en Aarde (Heaven and Earth) valley, just behind the seaside resort of Hermanus in Walker Bay. The 2011 Chardonnay is on of this year's 5 star wines.

For more see:
Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

South Africa is a New World wine country, with a long wine history. With about 100.000 hectares of land under vine, it accounts for 1.5% of the world's grape vineyards. Yearly production is around 10 million hectoliters, which puts the country among the top ten wine producing countries in the world.

The undisputed authority in terms of South African wine is the Platter's South African Wine Guide. The 2013 edition including ratings of more than 800 producers and brands and 7000 locally grown wines was just released.

For Platters of previous years, see:
South Africa’s Top Wines - Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide 2012
Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide 2011

Modern South Africa

I have traveled in South Africa many times in the past 3 decades, in particular during the period 1989 to 1992, when I used to live in Madagascar. When traveling in South Africa today, it quickly becomes evident that apartheid is resting in the dustbin of history. South Africa’s current President is the Zulu Jakob Zuma, who is mired in personal and political controversy. The Txosa Nelson Mandela, who had spent more than 25 years in prison during apartheid, was President in the 1990s and is now a revered elder called "Madiba" ("Papa"). South Africa successfully hosted the Soccer World Cup. The Soccer World Cup was hoped to provide a boost to the tourism industry; but indications are that the expected boost did not materialize, at least not fully. The gap between the haves and have-nots continues to be wide, but is narrowing and a black middle class is emerging. This, however, is not so much evident in the wine region, which continues to be dominated by the whites; Cape Town even has a white mayor. 99% of the vineyard area is in the hands of whites. The AIDS pandemic is taking a huge toll with the HIV infection rate at about 20 percent.

Over the course of the years, I have detected an increasing openness, pride and camaraderie among all the South Africans – white, colored or black, Boers or Brits; Indians, Jews, Zulus, Txosas or Vendas, I met. Nevertheless, this rainbow society with a share of 75% of blacks, has huge challenges to cope with.

South African Wine Industry

Unlike other New World wine regions, the South African wine industry is strongly influenced by several large wine-cooperatives, including Distel and KWV; in total, there about 60 co-operatives. In addition, there are about 25 trading companies, or negociants, which often operate wineries, but seldom own their own vineyards. Among these are SAVISA, Winecorp, Stellenbosch Vineyards and Graham Beck; Western Wines is among the trading companies that are foreign based and owned; their brand Kumala is by far South Africa’s biggest brand. Over 80% of the total crop is delivered to these large wineries by about 4000 wine growers. However, private wineries have increasingly emerged and seen an impressive growth; there are now about 600 winemakers with their own cellars, most of them in the premium wine segment.

More than half of the total production is exported. The previous Cape powers, the UK and Netherlands, are traditionally the main destinations for wines shipments; but other markets are coming up, including Sweden, Denmark, the USA, Germany and Angola.

The wine industry is firmly in the hands of the whites, both white South Africans and foreign investors. But I had the pleasure to meet Ntsiki Biyela, a female black winemaker, who is producing outstanding wines at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch. Also, the Diemersfontein wine portfolio included a line of wines that was produced in the framework of the Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) program (to promote the black community's involvement in the South African wine industry-including ownership opportunities for vineyards and wineries).

Major Achievers in Platter’s 2013

Winery of the Year

Cape Chamonix Wine Farm

Superquaffer of the Year

Muratie Melck’s Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

White Wine of the Year (Unfortified Dessert Wine)

Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest 2011 (described as “a thing of beauty”)

Red Wine of the Year

Mullineux Family Syrah 2010 (described in the guide as “an icon in the making”)

The Platter 5 Star Wines

This year’s Platter´s South Africa Wine Guide includes 62 five star wines – the crème de la crème of South Africa. Twelve wineries received Platter’s five stars for the first time, namely AA Badenhorst, Alheit, Bon Courage, Cederburg, Dalla Cia, David, Fryer’s Cove, Keets, Mvemve Raats, Ntida, Saronsberg and Con Orloff.

The Five Star wines for 2013 are:

Whites

Chardonnay

Boschendal Reserve 2011
Chamonix Reserve 2011
Hamilton Russell Vineyards 2011
Jordan CWG Auction Reserve 2011
Jordan Nine Yards 2011

Chenin Blanc

Alheit Cartology 2011
Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2011
Botanica 2011
DeMorgenzon Reserve 2010
Jean Daneel Signature 2011
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2011
Sadie Family Skurfberg 2011
Spice Route 2011

Sauvignon Blanc

Fryer’s Cove 2011
Graham Beck Pheasant’s Run 2012
Tokara Walker Bay 2012

White Blends

AA Badenhorst Family 2010
Cape Chamonix Reserve 2011
Cape Point CWG Auction Reserve 2011
David Aristargos 2011Fairview Nurok 2011
Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve 2010
Miles Mossop Saskia 2011
Nederburg Ingenuity 2011
Nederberg Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Private Bin D252 2012
Nitida Coronata Integration 2011
Rall 2011
Tokara Director’s Reserve 2011

Reds

Cabernet Franc

Raka 2009
Von Ortloff Quintessence 2008
Warwick 2009
Cabernet Sauvignon
Delaire Graff Laurence Graff Reserve 2009

Pinotage

Cape Chamonix Greywacke 2010
Kanonkop 2010

Pinot Noir

Chamonix Reserve 2011
Newton Johnson Family Vineyards 2011

Shiraz

Boschendal Cecil John Reserve 2010
Cederberg CWG Auction Reserve Teen die Hoog 2010
Delheim Vera Cruz 2009
Fable Bobbejaan 2010
Fairview Jakkalsfontein 2009
Mullineux Family Schist 2010

Raka Biography 2010
Saronsberg 2010
Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2010

Red Blends

Columella 2010

Dalla Cia Giorgio 2007
Fleur du Cap Lazlo 2008
Keets First Verse 2010
Ken Forrester The Gypsy 2009
La Motte Pierneef Shiraz Viognier 2010
MR De Compostella 2009
Nico van der Merwe Mas Nicolas Cape 2007

Méthode Cap Classiques

Bon Courage Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 2008
Villiera Monro Brut 2007

Dessert Wines

Dessert Wine Unfortified

Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2011
Fleur du Cap Noble Late Harvest 2011
Mullineux Family Straw Wine 2011
Nederburg Winemaster’s Reserve Noble Late Harvest 2011
Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest 2011

Fortified Wine

De Krans The Last Cape Vintage Reserve Port 2010

schiller-wine - Related Postings

In the Plane: Wine on South African Airways from Johannesburg to Livingstone in Zambia (Victoria Falls)

New World Wine Producer South Africa

Boekenhoutskloof– Producer of Sensational Premium Wines as well as Good Value Table Wines in Franschhoek

Lunch with Raphael Dornier in Stellenbosch

Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Devon Rocks - A Boutique Producer of Pinotage in South Africa

Wining, Dining and Relaxing with the Chocolate/Coffee Pinotage at Diemersfontein Wine and Country Estate in Wellington, South Africa

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

Marianne Wine Estate: South African Wine with a French Soul

Meeting Ntsiki Biyela at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch – South Africa’s Only Female and Black Winemaker with International Recognition

Wine, Art and Food: Donald Hess’ Glen Carlou Estate in South Africa

Riesling in South Africa

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Michael McGarry, Co-owner of Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard, with the Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard 2010 EVOE that won the best red wine award

The 5th annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore in Maryland (May 14, 2013) was a day about Maryland wine. The highlight was clearly the grand tasting of Maryland wines and twitter taste-off, in which more than 400 wine lovers participated.

Thanks to Kevin Atticks, Executive Director of the Maryland Wineries Association along with Marketing Director Briana Berg and Events Director Jade Ostner, for an outstanding conference and great twitter taste-off.

See:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA
Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA

Wine in the USA

The USA has become the 4th largest wine producing country in the world, after France, Italy, and Spain (and the largest wine consuming country in the world). Wine is now produced in all 50 States, with California, Washington State and Oregon leading the way. However, some states outside the Northwest do not grow vitis vinifera grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay easily, and some wineries in the smaller wine-producing states buy juice or grapes from other states. For reviews of wines from all 50 states go to here for an excellent Time Magazine article.

Wine in Maryland

Blue crabs are iconic in Maryland (see below), but few wine/food aficionados know premium wines from Marylandof. In fact, Maryland has long had the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off

The Twitter Taste-Off was the grand finale of the DLW Conference. Held at The Warehouse at Camden Yards, it featured 20 Maryland wineries. 425 wine enthusiasts, vintners and bloggers came to taste Maryland wines and learn more about the local industry.

“Of course, Drink Local Wines is always a social media event and our tweets and updates quickly became the leading trend on Twitter — above even Tiger Woods and his two-stroke penalty at the Masters or Kobe Bryant’s ruptured Achilles tendon,” writes DrinkLocalWine.com co-founder Dave McIntyre on his blog. “We realized something was happening when advertisements began popping up on #dlw13 and #mdwine.”

Twitter Taste-off Winners

The winners were:

White: Black Ankle for its 2011 Albarino

Red: Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard for its 2010 EVOE! $39. This wine is a blend of 51% Cabernet Franc, 22% Petit Verdot, 16% Merlot, and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon which was aged 24 months in 25% new French oak. Alcohol 14.5%.

Other: Millstone Cellars for its Ciderberry, a tasty cider made of Rome Beauty and Stayman Winesap apples and flavored with raspberries.

Black Ankle Vineyards

Black Ankle sets the new standard for what is going on in Maryland wine. Black Ankle has won numerous awards for their wines, including recent Maryland Governor’s Cup Awards.

Pictures: Black Ankle Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, with Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy and Christian G.E. Schiller in Baltimore

Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce (both former management consultants) planted their first vines in 2003 after a lengthy search looking for farms with the worst soil. They succeeded, buying a 142-acre farm on Black Ankle Road in the rolling hills of Carroll County near Mt. Airy.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Owners Sarah O’Herron and Ed Boyce, Black Ankle Vineyard

During my recent visit, Ed and Sarah explained that the meager 1 1/2 feet of soil is 60 percent rock with a solid layer of rock below. Although this soil environment would be a nightmare for a farmer planting traditional agricultural crops, it proved perfect for their vision of a world-class vineyard growing vinifera grapes.

Currently, Black Ankle has 42 producing acres. Since Ed and Sarah purchased the property, they have made and applied compost in place of chemical fertilizers and they have never used herbicides of any kind. “Although we are not yet able to farm 100% organically, we are optimistic that with more research and ingenuity we will get there before too long,” say Ed and Sarah. “We have also made the decision to farm with the principles of Biodynamics. Black Ankle’s barrel room holds 300 French oak barrels. It is constructed with hay-bale walls coated with a plaster made from the farm’s earth and wood harvested from their acreage.

The business has been a bit of a juggling act for Ed and Sarah, who have kept their house in Silver Spring and, except at harvest time, alternate days at Black Ankle with working from home. They have five children, one in college and four at home.

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard is only a 45 minute drive from Washington, DC. The 92-acre farm abuts the scenic Sugarloaf Mountain conservation and recreation area. The winery is easily identifiable by its signature red barn, silo and windmill, built in the early 1900s.

Pictures: Mike Wangbickler, President of Drink Local Wine, Michael McGarry, Co-owner of Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard, Manolo Gomez, Winemaker at Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, in Baltimore

Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard specializes in Bordeaux style wines. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot; and three white varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Viognier.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Michael McKenna, Co-owner of Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard, and Manolo Gomez and Ben Pineau, both Winemakers at Sugar Loaf Mountain Vineyard

Participating Wineries

•         Basignani Winery
•         Big Cork Vineyards
•         Black Ankle Vineyards
•         Boordy Vineyards
•         Catoctin Breeze Vineyard
•         Cygnus Wine Cellars
•         Distillery Lane Ciderworks
•         Elk Run Vineyards
•         Fiore Winery
•         Galloping Goose Vineyards
•         Knob Hall Winery
•         Linganore Winecellars / Berrywine Plantations
•         Millstone Cellars
•         Old Westminster Winery
•         Port of Leonardtown
•         Royal Rabbit Vineyards
•         Serpent Ridge Vineyard
•         Slack Winery
•         Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard
•         Thanksgiving Farm
•         The Vineyards at Dodon
•         Woodhall Wine Cellars

schiller-wine: Related Postings

At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA

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Maryland Crabs and Wine

Schiller's World of Seafood

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Peter Schmitz, Weingut Schmitz-Herges in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, having an Auslese trocken

An ultra-premium German dry wine can be labeled differently, depending on who has made the wine. Basically, you have to distinguish between 6 groups of winemakers and thus labelings: (1) The VDP non-Rheingau winemakers, (2) the VDP Rheingau winemakers, (3) the Rheingau non-VDP winemakers, (4) the zero classification winemakers, (5) the own classification winemakers and (6) all other winemakers.

The VDP is Germany’s association of elite winemakers with about 200 members, compared with say 30.000 winemakers in Germany. But the VDP accounts for a large part of the export of premium wines.

Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken

Let us start with the last group, the by far largest group. Typically, the best dry wines of one of the 30.000 or so winemaker of this group will carry the designation Spaetlese or Auslese trocken. This is a wine made of fully ripe grapes that were fully fermented. Auslese is the highest predicate, where the production of dry wines is possible, by fully fermenting the grape juice. These wines have around 13% to 14% alcohol and are dry. Typically, the grapes come from a top vineyard, but don’t have to. Before the days of Erstes Gewaechs and Grosses Gewaechs, Spaetlese trocken and Auslese trocken was the way to go, if you were interested in premium dry wines in Germany.

Example:
Weingut Schmitz-Herges, 2010 Lieserer Niederberg-Helden, Riesling Auslese trocken

See:
Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Erstes Gewaechs

The Rheingau introduced a few years ago the concept of Erste Lage. These are the best vineyards in the Rheingau. Any Rheingau winemaker, who owns an Erste Lage vineyard and who makes a top dry wine that passes the test of various regulations can name this wine an Erstes Gewaechs. Erstes Gewaechs wines are top dry wines from top vineyards in the Rheingau.

Example:
Weingut Schaefer, Hochheim, 2010 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling, Erstes Gewaechs

See:
Meeting J. Schaefer from Weingut J. Schaefer, Hochheim, Rheingau, in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Then came the VDP into the game and introduced the concept of Grosses Gewaechs. A Grosses Gewaechs is a top dry wine from the very best vineyards of the VDP members, which had been named Erste Lage until recently and, starting with the 2012 vintage, have been named Grosse Lage. Note, that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the suffix VDP.

Example:
Weingut Weil, Kiedrich, 2012 Kiedricher Graefenberg Riesling, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil in Kiedrich

For more:

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Rheingau: VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and Erstes Gewaechs

Until recently, the VDP winemakers in the Rheingau did not go along with their VDP colleagues in other regions, but they went along with their non-VDP colleagues in the Rheingau: They called their best dry wines Erstes Gewaechs. Thus, until recently, the top dry wines of VDP members in the Rheingau were called Erstes Gewaeachs, while the rest of the VDP members in the other wine regions called their top dry wines Grosses Gewaechs.

This changed with the 2012 vintage. The VDP winemakers from the Rheingau switched fronts and decided to call their best dry wines Grosses Gewaechs. So, there is now uniformity on the VDP front.

The non-VDP winemakers in the Rheingau were faced with the decision: to stick to the Erstes Gewaechs or change with the VDP members to Grosses Gewaechs. Initially, the latter was the plan. But eventually, the non-VDP winemakers in the Rheingau went in a different direction. Thus, there will be two denominations for the top dry wines in the Rheingau: VDP.Grosses Gewaechs (VDP members) and Erstes Gewaechs (non-VDP members). Roughly 90% of the top dry wines in the Rheingau will be VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and 10% Erstes Gewaechs.

Zero Classification Winemakers

Moving on, there are two more groups of winemakers, although probably less relevant for the world market. One is the group of winemakers that have abandoned any classification, following the New World approach. One of them is cult winemaker Markus Schneider in the Pfalz.

Markus Schneider markets all his wines as Qualitaetswein, without any reference to the predicate level and without any reference to the vineyard(s) were the grapes come from. Here are some of Markus Schneider’s wines: Blackprint, Rotwein Alte Reben, M Spaetburgunder, Tohuwabohu, Chardonnay, Riesling and Kaitui.

Example:
Weingut Markus Schneider, Pfalz, Kaitui 2011, Sauvignon Blanc, QbA

Picture: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, Kai Buhrfeindt, Grand Cru Weinrestaurant, Christian G.E. Schiller, Markus Schneider, Weingut Markus Schneider

See:
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Innovative Classification Winemakers

Finally, there are a number of winemakers who have introduced their own classification system. One of them is Christian Stahl in Franken.

With regard to classifying his wines, Christian Stahl markets all his wines as Qualitaetswein. And he has developed his own, innovative classification system, playing with his name Stahl (= steel). Christian Stahl groups his wines into 3 categories:

Top: Edelstahl (= precious steel)
Middle: Damaszener Stahl
Entry: Feder Stahl

Also, Christian rejects the terroir principle. You will never find a vineyard name on his bottles. Instead, he gives his wines colorful names, such as Literweise (by the liter), Rauschgift (drugs) and Rosenrot (red like a rose).

Example:
Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, 2011 Edelstahl Riesling

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christian Stahl Offenbach (Frankfurt am Main)

See:
The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

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Meeting J. Schaefer from Weingut J. Schaefer, Hochheim, Rheingau, in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Henri Lurton at CityZen in Washington DC

Henri Lurton of Château Brane-Cantenac was in town (Washington DC) for 24 hours and invited a small group of wine writers/bloggers/officials to have dinner with him at CityZen: Karen Taylor (France Magazine), Michael Besche (Commanderie de Bordeaux), and Lou Marmon (GrapeLines), Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead) and myself.

See also Aaron Nix-Gomez for his posting on the evening: “Quantity being sacrificed to quality”: A Dinner with Henri Lurton of Château Brane-Cantenac

Henri Lurton and the Lurton Family

Château Brane-Cantenac is a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux. In 1922, it was acquired by the Lurton family. In 1992, control passed to the current owner Henri Lurton.

The Lurtons are one of Bordeaux's great wine dynasties. With more than 1,000 hectares in the region, they are collectively Bordeaux's largest holder of wine-producing land. The family members own more than 20 châteaux and manage several well-known properties. They are also active in the New World and the South of France.

Picture: Henri Lurton

The Lurton family is not some centuries-old French aristocratic dynasty. They are new-comers. It all began in the 1920s with Léonce Récapet, who was a prosperous distiller and vineyard owner in the Entre Deux Mers region. His daughter married François Lurton. Their 4 children Andre, Dominique, Lucien and Simone took wine making seriously and between them began to build an empire. Lucien and André, in particular, acquired châteaux that were in a bad shape and brought them back on track. André is still running his business, while Lucien has handed over the 11 estates that he had gradually acquired to his 10 children, including Château Brane-Cantenac to Henri Lurton.

See also:
Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France
Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites
An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

Château Brane Cantenac

Originally known as Chateau Gorce, Château Brane Cantenac was one of most venerated Left Bank estates in the 1700s and 1800s. During the Gorce family’s 100-year tenure, the wines fetched prices similar to those for Chateau Brane Mouton – the precursor to Mouton Rothschild.

Château Brane Mouton owner Baron Hector de Brane sold Brane Mouton in 1833 to purchase Château Gorce and renamed it Château Brane Cantenac. In 1920, the Société des Grands Crus de France purchased Château Brane Cantenac and 5 years later, M. Récapet and his son-in-law, François Lurton, took over Château Margaux along with Château Brane Cantenac. Lucien Lurton inherited Château Brane-Cantenac in 1956. He passed it on to Henri Lurton in 1992.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, ombiasy wine tours, with Henri Lurton at In the Cellar with Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac

See more: "An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France". This was part of a trip organized by ombiasy wine tours and led by Annette Schiller. See more: "Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France". For the forthcoming wine tour to Bordeaux, which again will include a visit of Château Brane-Cantenac, see: "Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013"

Château Brane-Cantenac’s vineyard totals 94 hectares. The grape varieties are 62.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 0.5 Carmenère.

Château Brane Cantenac makes 4 wines (36.000 cases in total): The Grand Vin, the second wine Baron de Brane, an additional label named Château Notton using grapes from the Notton vineyard, a plot acquired from Château d'Angludet, and a generic Margaux wine.

Winemaking at Château Brane Cantenac

During the dinner, we talked a bit about vineyard management, vinification and aging of the Château Brane Cantenac wines.

In terms of vineyard management at Château Brane-Cantenac, important aspects include: alternating between traditional working of the soil and top soil ploughing, good canopy management, which helps to keep yields low, de-leafing at setting and three weeks before the harvest, as well as crop thinning.

Pictures: At the dinner table with Henri Lurton

Henri Lurton: “For full ripening, it is essential to do the phenolic and other tests before harvest but it is also important to actually taste the grapes to decide if they are fully ripe. My father taught me this process years ago before many people in Bordeaux made this a routine. Now, I can pretty much taste grapes from different parts of the vineyard and tell if it is fully ripe.”

In terms of grape varieties: “Like in the rest of Medoc, we rely on Cabernet Sauvignon. We are aiming at increasing the share of Cabernet Sauvignon to 70%. We are experimenting with Carmenére in a half hectare of plot, so we use about 0.5% in the blend.”

Starting with the 2010 vintage, Brane Cantenac began to use the Vistalys Optical Sorting Machine. Brane Cantenac also began employing the Air Tec Wine System, which is aimed at preventing crushing of the grapes and premature oxidation of the fruit.

Henri explained that the optical sorting line analyzes berries in real-time sorting the good from the bad using air jets based on programmable criteria. The optical sorter not only shortens the sorting time but improves the quality of the fruit in both bad and good vintages. As an example, in the 2010 vintage the destemmer let some Merlot berries with green stems through but the optical sorter was able to remove them. It helped moved things along by sorting through the large numbers of grapes in the 2011 vintage. It would have been helpful in the 1999 vintage when there were green berries in the center of some clusters which made it through. The optical sorter cannot eliminate the necessity of field sorting for it is important to leave any botrytis affected fruit in the vineyard.

Pictures: At CityZen

The fruit is fermented in a mixture of wooden, concrete, and stainless steel vats. Typically, the Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented in wood and concrete, the Cabernet Franc in wood, and the young vines in stainless steel. Henri Lurton employs vats of various sizes. These he can match to parcel sizes as well as to separate very small sections of a vineyard which have unique soil characteristics. These he marks with flags. With such an array of vats he can aim to maximize the balance of each vat.

The wine is aged in an average of 60% new, French oak for 18 months. After 18 months in barrels, the wine is racked into oak vats for fining with fresh egg whites.

Chef Eric Ziebold, Sommelier Andrew Myers and CityZen

CityZen is one of the best restaurants in town. The Washingtonian: “Some chefs can't resist seeing themselves in a magazine or on TV and are content to be faces for their restaurants instead of constant presences in the kitchen. Eric Ziebold, the chef at this sleekly plush dining room, isn't one of those publicity seekers. Every night the quietly intense Ziebold, who came up at California's French Laundry, is at work in the open kitchen. His obsession with detail means plates are gorgeous, and his creative drive means the menu changes every few months and rarely repeats; the only constant is the wooden box of Parker House rolls that arrives with main courses. Service is nearly always perfect--when you get up from the table, the hostess will likely be holding your coat.”

Pictures: Chef Eric Ziebold, Henri Lurton and Christian G.E. Schiller

Andrew Myers' sommelier career began at The Inn at Little Washington in 1997. He later returned to Washington to manage the wait staff and the wine department of Restaurant Nora. Five years later, he joined the team at CityZen. At 40 plus now, Andrew Myers remains obsessed with metal. He plays the drums in a Heavy Metal Group and is covered in tattoos that would make most head bangers proud. But that obsession is rivaled by his passion for wine.

Pictures: Sommelier Andrew Myers and Henri Lurton

Chef's Tasting Menu

For our dinner, we had the five-course tasting menu. There was also an amuse-bouche upon settling down and a sorbet as well as chocolates to finish off the evening. Three-course menu: $75. Five-course tasting menu: $110. Three-course bar menu: $50.

SOFT BOILED PATH VALLEY HEN EGG
CityZen Scrapple and Darden Ham Emulsion

HAWAIIAN SWORDFISH EN PERSILLADE
Savoy Cabbage Ribbons, Braised Rhubarb, and Dijon Mustard Broth

BRAISED OAKLEIGH RANCH VEAL SHANK
English Pea Tapenade, Julienne Snow Peas, Pea Shoot Tempura and Paloise Aïoli

SLOW COOKED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB SADDLE
Spring Garlic Stuffed Crêpe, Red Wine and Rosemary Panade

A SELECTION OF ARTISANAL CHEESES FROM OUR TROLLEY

The Wines

2012 Château Brane-Cantenac, Echantillon, Margaux

68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. Alcohol 13%.

Henri Lurton: The Merlot was excellent in the 2012 vintage. Harvest was rushed for fear of dilution and botrytis but the later did not occur. The Cabernet Franc was unusually late, it typically comes in between the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. As a result it was not included in the Grand Vin. The Carmenere was not ripe enough so it was excluded as well.

Robert Parker: A beauty from Henri Lurton, the 2012 Brane Cantenac exhibits classic notes of spring flowers intermixed with black raspberries, black currants and damp forest floor. This medium-bodied, sweet, ripe, quintessentially elegant, medium-bodied Margaux is nicely concentrated as well as sexy. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years. 90 to 92 points.

2008 Baron de Brane, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 28

58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, which was aged for 12 months in 30% new French oak. Second vin.

Notes of pepper and strawberries on the nose, medium bodied wine, good structure, black fruits with roasted coffee on the palate, nice finish.

2010 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 93

Blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol 13.5%.
Flower, black raspberry, and earth notes on the nose, silky tannins on the palate, ending with long, ripe, dark berry aromas.

2006 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Wine Searcher Average Price: 70

Blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Notes of spices, pepper and sandalwood on the nose, a full bodied wine, good structure, soft, round, creamy on the palate, with cassis and blackcurrant, has a well balanced character, lingering finish.

2005 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

Blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 107

Aaron Nix-Gomez: The nose was lovely with perfume and youthful aromas. In the mouth the wine was finely textured with some structure evident in the middle. The cool acidity caused salivation at the end followed by grip in the back of the throat. It showed a good concentration of flavors.

2000 Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc which was aged for 18 months in 60% new French oak.

Wine-searcher average price: US$ 144

Lots of tobacco, truffle, cassis and earthy scents on the nose, good structure, an elegant wine with well integrated tannins and a sweet cherry and cassis filled finish.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA