Quantcast
Channel: schiller-wine
Viewing all 2405 articles
Browse latest View live

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

Château Pape-Clément is a Cru Classé de Graves. The winery and vineyards are located in the commune of Pessac, in the larger Bordeaux City area. Château Pape-Clément belongs to the wine imperium of Bernard Magrez, which now covers about 40 estates in Bordeaux and other parts of France as well as in the rest of the world. Last September, I toured Château Pape-Clément with Winemaker Arnaud Lasisz. This was organized by Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy.

See:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Château Pape-Clément and the City of Bordeaux

The outskirts of the city of Bordeaux are the birthplace of the phenomenal Bordeaux wine boom. It was here – in the Graves - that the region first gained its reputation, as early as the 14th century – hundreds of years before Dutch wine merchants and producers drained the marshes of the Medoc. In the Middle Ages, much of the Claret - as red Bordeaux is called in the United Kingdom - shipped to London was grown within in easy distance to the Quai de Chartrons in Bordeaux.

For centuries, Graves encompassed all the vineyards south of the border with the Medoc, in a great sweep around the city of Bordeaux with the exception of the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes, Cerons and Barsac, which are nestled within the boundaries of the Graves, but are independently recognized because of their outstanding noble-sweet white wines. But in 1987, the Pessac-Leognan appellation was carved out of the northern end of the Graves, encompassing Graves’ most respected producers.  The four key producers in Pessac-Leognan are Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion (both in American hands), Laville Haut-Brion and Pape-Clement

Picture: Bordeaux City

Interestingly, these chateaux are within the city limits of Bordeaux and well within the Bordeaux beltway. This is the most urban wine area I have seen in Bordeaux and perhaps in the whole world. Indeed, the vineyards of Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement are surrounded by suburban development.

See:
In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Bernard Magrez

Bernard Magrez is a self-made man who made his fortune as the founder of the William Pitters spirits company and the low-cost red Bordeaux brand. But for the past 20 years or so, he has been involved in quite a different, more upmarket side of the business: he has acquired prestigious vineyards and wineries, first of all in Bordeaux, then in other parts of France and more recently around the world. The total count at the moment is about 40 wine estates.

See:
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France 

Château Pape Clément

Pape-Clément has one of the longest and best documented histories of all Bordeaux châteaux. The vineyards were planted in 1300 by Bernard de Groth, who later became Pope Clément V and moved the papacy to Avignon.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with Wine Maker Arnaud Lasisz at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013 

The noble de Groth family was based in Sauternes. In 1299, Bernard de Groth became Archbishop of Bordeaux. His brother (who was Archbishop of Lyon) gave him as a gift what later would become Chateau Pape Clement to be used as private residence as Archbishop of Bordeaux. Bernard de Groth lived there for 6 years. In 1305, Bernhard de Groth became Pope Clement V and felt that he should donate the property to the church.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with Wine Maker Arnaud Lasisz in the Vineyard

In the hands of the church, the Pessac estate continued as a site of viticulture for many centuries, right up until the Revolution when it was confiscated and sold off as a bien national. In 1939 the estate was bought by the Montagne family; they appointed Bernard Magrez as General Manager in 1985. It is now owned and run by Bernard Magrez.

Pictures: At Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

The vineyard area consists of 32.5 hectares, 30 of which are planted with red grapes varieties (60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot). The remaining plots are cultivated with white varieties of 45% Sauvignon blanc, 45% Sémillon and 10% Muscadelle.

Pictures: At Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

Production of the Grand Vin - Pape Clément – is: 7,000 cases of red wine and 350 cases of dry white wine. Additionally, there are 2 second wines - Le Clémentin du Pape Clément and Le Prélat du Pape Clément.

Wine Searcher Average Prices (in US$)

2011    85
2010  205
2009  166
2008  125
2007  126
2006  154
2005  214
2004  111
2003  135
2002  132

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France 

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family that owns Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux. Jim Law from Linden Vineyards and Christian G.E. Schiller

Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux) was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Event. On the side, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy organized a winemaker dinner with her at Eola on P Street in Dupont Circle in Washington DC. Anne also wanted to visit Virginia wineries. We visited 3 of the leading wineries in Virginia, all three of them intertwined with Bordeaux: Boxwood, Linden, RdV.

For more on the visits with Anne Cuvleier, see:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA (forthcoming)
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux (forthcoming)

See here for the Leoville Poyferre Dinner at Eola:
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours by Annette Schiller, see:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

This posting focuses on Linden. We visited Linden Vineyards in the early afternoon. We were guided by Jonathan Weber, who is Linden’s cellar master. Later, Shari Avenius, Linden’s General Manager and Owner/Winegrower of Avenius Vineyard and Jim Law joined us.

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier, Shari Avenius, Linden’s General Manager and Owner/Winegrower of Avenius Vineyard, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy, Linden's Cellarmaster Jonathan Weber and Christian G.E. Schiller at Linden

For more on Linden, see here:
TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont
Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia– A Profile, USA

Linden Vineyards

Jim Law, with family help, purchased what was then an abandoned hardscrabble farm in 1983. The first 6 acres were cleared and prepared for planting. The 1985 planting included Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Vidal and Seyval. The first vintage was 1987 and the first release and opening of the winery was in 1988.

Pictures: Linden Vineyards

“In 2002 we built our dream crush/press facility that we believe will put us in the position to make great wines. New sorting tables and the gentler handling of grapes have already yielded wines with more purity and finesse” said Jim.

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier from Leoville Poyferre, Shari Avenius, Linden’s General Manager and Owner/Winegrower of Avenius Vineyard, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy, Linden's Cellarmaster Jonathan Weber and Christian G.E. Schiller at Linden

Three vineyards supply all the grapes used to make Linden wines: Hardscrabble, the estate vineyard, 21 acres surrounding the winery; Boisseau, 4 acres, 7 miles west of Linden, and Avenius, 5 acres, less than one mile north of Linden Vineyards.

Jim Law

An Ohio native, Jim is the owner/winemaker of Linden Vineyards and winegrower of Hardscrabble. He studied in Europe. 2 years teaching of agriculture as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Zaire led to the desire to grow grapes.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Jim’s first vineyard job was in Indiana where he traded work for a place to live. He then got a real job in Ohio at Chalet Debonne where he learned the nuts and bolts of grape growing and cellar work. In 1981 Jim was hired to start a winery in the Shenandoah Valley where he fell in love with the area and viticultural possibilities. In the mid 1980s, while establishing Linden Vineyards, he consulted for other wineries and taught winegrowing at local community colleges.

Shari Avenius

Shari is Linden’s Director and Owner/Winegrower of Avenius Vineyard. A New York native, she went to college in Virginia. Since 1989 Shari’s background in laboratories and management has made Linden a well-oiled machine. Along with all her responsibilities at Linden, Shari planted her own eponymous vineyard in 1996.

Linden Wines

Jim Law: “I am always mindful that a wine’s first job is to complement a meal. Because of this I prefer wines that have good acidity and structure, with moderate alcohol. My inspiration comes from Europe. The vineyards are my focus. Soil, site and micro-climate are more important than grape variety. We are winegrowers and our best wines carry the vineyard designation on the label.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Many of our wines are unfined or unfiltered. We work hard in the vineyard to get as much concentration from the grape as possible. We are non-interventionists in the cellar. The result is wine with more flavor and texture. This can be at the expense of sediment or haze in the bottle. This is a risk that we feel is worth the benefit.”

Vineyard Practices

“Our vineyard practices are French inspired. For many years I traveled to California to learn techniques and philosophies in the vineyard. Eventually it became apparent that I needed to look east rather than west. In the non-Mediterranean viticultural areas of France, growers experience situations similar to ours here in the mountains of Virginia: diverse soils, erratic weather and a small scale. They have learned to micro-manage each site according to its needs. They have learned how to change vineyard practices as the growing season unfolds: hot, wet, dry, cold.”

Pictures: Jim Law in the Hardscrabble Vineyard during a Visit in May 2012

We got a tour of the Hardscrabble Vineyard by Jonathan Weber.

Pictures: Touring Hardscrabble Vineyard

Tasting Linden Wines

We started with some barrel tasting in the cave. Then we moved on and had 4 wines in the tasting room.

Avenius Chardonnay 2011

The Avenius site is known for its rocky soils and thus produces leaner wines with mineral characteristics.


Floral notes combined with lemon and a hint of vanilla on the nose, reminds me of a Chablis, fresh, lemon and mineral notes on the palate, good finish

Avenius Chardonnay 2010

I picked up citrus and tree fruit notes on the nose, very fresh (no malolactic), mineral aromas and good acidity on the palate, with an lively finish


Pictures: Tasting - Shari Avenius, Anne Cuvelier, Jim Law and Christian G.E. Schiller (and Jonothan Weber and Annette Schiller)

Hardscrabble Red 2010

Hardscrabble Vineyard is on top of the Blue Ridge at 1,200 to 1,400 feet with an eastern to southern slope. moderately shallow, well drained rocky, mineral soils give depth, structure and length. Vines planted from 1985 to 2006. Older vines planted at a density of 600 to 800 vines per acre. Younger vineyards at 1,500 to 2,500 vines per acre.


83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot  and 3% Petit Verdot.

Red fruits and cedar notes on the nose, prominent tannins with flavors of cherries, raspberries and hints of black pepper on the palate, good finish.

Hardscrabble Red 2009

64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 7% Cabernet Franc.

Jim Law: The 2009 vintage included for the first time our new steep slope plantings. We hand sort before destemming and then again afterwards to remove pink berries and stem pieces. 15% bleed. An average of 5 days cold soak. Fermentation begins naturally (no added yeast) in small one-ton fermenters. Punched down and pumped over averaging two times per day. Extensive post fermentation macerations make for a total cuvaison of 28 to 30 days. Malo in barrels. The wine was aged in new (50%) and slightly used French oak barrels for 21 months. Bottled July of 2011. Nose: Blueberry jam, pâtisserie, vanilla lift and smoky underbrush. Palate: Dried cherries, savory, very linear, energetic, and fresh with assertive, long tannins.

Leaving

Pictures: Leaving

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont

Virginia versus the World– A Blind Taste-Off, USA

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux
Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jeff Black, and all the Chefs

A crab cake is a delicious American dish that looks like a Hamburger but is composed of crab meat and various other ingredients, such as bread crumbs, milk, mayonnaise, eggs, yellow onions, and seasonings. Crab cakes are traditionally associated with the area surrounding the Chesapeake Bay, in particular the State of Maryland.

The American Institute of Wine and Food (AIWF) National Capital Area Chapter and The Source by Wolfgang Puck hosted the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA on June 9, 2013. The contest put eight of the area’s top chefs against one another in a crab cake showdown.

A jury composed of local chefs and food critics selected a winner, based on special plates prepared for the jury. Judges (from left right): Cathey Borrow (Washington Post), Chef Marjorie Meeks Bradley (Ripple) David Hagedorn (Washington Post) Betsy Apple (Washington Post) Eun Yang (Morning news anchor for NBC4/WRC-TV)

Pictures: The Judges

Guests had the chance to sample each chef’s unique take on crab cakes and vote for their favorites, as well as cruise oyster, beer and wine stations.

Pictures: Tasting

Chef Scott Drewno (Source by Wolfgang Puck) and Ris Lacoste (Ris) refereed.

Pictures: Chef Scott Drewno (Source by Wolfgang Puck) and Ris Lacoste (Ris)

The star-studded line-up of contestants was comprised of 8 chefs: Kyle Bailey (Birch and Barley), Jeff Black (Black Salt), Chris Clime (PassionFish), John Critchley (Bourbon Steak), Spike Gjerde (Woodberry Kitchen), Matt Hagan (Mussel Bar and Grille), Russell Smith (Wolfgang Puck Catering) and David Stein (Tony and Joe’s Seafood).

The Winner – Judges’ Choice: Jeff Black, Black Salt

Over the years, the Houston native Jeff Black and his wife Barbara Black, both chefs, have created a little empire comprising half a dozen establishments in D.C. and the surrounding suburbs: Addie’s, BlackSalt Restaurant and Fish Market, Black Market Bistro, Black’s Bar & Kitchen, Pearl Dive, and Black Jack—with more on the way.

Jeff Black met his future wife Barbara in New York at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.. In 1991, Jeff followed Barbara to D.C., where she had family, and got his first job working with Kinkead’s chef Bob Kinkead at now-shuttered 21 Federal. He went on to work for revered chefs Roberto Donna and Jean-Louis Palladin at Pesce before opening his first restaurant, Addie’s, in Rockville in 1995.


See also:
Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

The Winner - Popular Choice: Chris Clime, PassionFish

PassionFish is a seafood restaurant located in the Reston Town Center, 40 minutes from downtown Washington, DC. It is a sister restaurant of the popular DC Coast, TenPenh, Ceiba, and Acadiana restaurants in Washington DC. Chris Clime is the Executive Chef at PassionFish, He is a native of Virginia.


Other Participants

Matt Hagan (Mussel Bar and Grille)

Chef-restaurateur Robert Wiedmaier pays homage to his Belgian roots at Mussel Bar and Grille in Bethesda

See also:
Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA

John Critchley (Bourbon Steak)

A Michael Mina restaurant, this chic and contemporary steakhouse restaurant is located just off the lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel in Washington, D.C.


Kyle Bailey (Birch and Barley)

Birch and Barley is a Washington DC restaurant dedicated to an unparalleled collection of 555 artisanal beers.


David Stein (Tony and Joe’s Seafood)

Seafood Place at the Georgetown Waterfront. Tony Cibel, patriarch of the Oceanside Management Family of restaurants, which includes The Dancing Crab, Tony and Joe’s Seafood Place, Nick’s Riverside Grille, Kaufmanns Tavern, Cabanas and The Rockfish, is a native Washingtonian.


Assistants of Russell Smith (Wolfgang Puck Catering)

Part of the Wolfgang Puck empire in the US.


Spike Gjerde (Woodberry Kitchen)

Huffington Post: “Nestled in a long-closed mill in Baltimore's Hampden neighborhood Woodberry Kitchen is a bastion of local and organic cooking. Since opening in fall 2007, the place has won acclaim for dishes by chef and owner Spike Gjerde”. The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema enthusiastically endorsed it, writing "One part Fannie Farmer, one part Alice Waters, Woodberry Kitchen is all heart. Go, Baltimore!" In Washingtonian magazine's list of the 100 best restaurants in the region for 2012, Woodberry Kitchen is the only Baltimore spot profiled.


See also:
Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

4 Oyster Producers

Chesapeak Gold Oysters
Hooper Island, Maryland


Hollywood Oyster Company
Hollywood, Maryland


The Choptank Oyster Company
Cambridge, Maryland


Barren Island Oysters
Hoopers Island, Maryland


Maryland Blue Crabs

Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack. Unfortunately, Maryland’s delicious seafood was on the backburner during the conference.

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

Picture: Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Soft Shell Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay is famous for its soft-shell blue crabs. As crabs grow larger, their shells cannot expand, so they molt the exteriors and have a soft covering for a matter of days when they are vulnerable and considered usable. Crabs caught just after molting are prepared as soft shell crabs: first cutting out the gills, face, and guts; the crab is then battered in flour, egg, and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy. The entire crab is consumed, legs and all.


Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller eating Soft Shell Crabs

Crab Cake

Crab cakes is another delicacy. Crab Cakes are basically Hamburgers made out of crab meat. We ate it recently as a starter with tomatoes and avocado on the side.

Picture: Maryland Crab Cake

See more:
Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA 

Maryland Crab Soup

Usually I start my crab dinner with a Maryland Crab Soup. This is a kind of an Italian Minestrone with crab meat.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena

New Hampshire, US: Cheese ... Lobster and Oysters ... and Wine!

Maryland Crabs and Wine

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Oysters and Wine

West Coast Oysters and Wine with Jon Rowley in Seattle, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

In the Glass: A Rust en Vrede 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon With South African Oysters in Stellenbosch

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's World of Seafood

Oysters - and Wine - at Zuni Café in San Francisco, USA

Tasting Virginia Chesapeake Bay Oysters with Oyster Producer Travis Craxton at the Rappahannock River, USA

Rappahannock Oyster Bar at Union Station– Virginia Oysters in Washington DC, USA

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA 

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian Schiller and Ernst Loosen in Washington DC

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous will take place in Seattle during July 14-16, 2013. Riesling Rendezvous is the largest international gathering of Riesling producers and enthusiasts in the world. It features three days of tasting, discussing and learning about Riesling.

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous is sponsored by Chateau Ste. Michelle in nearby Woodinville and Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers. Dr. Loosen is owned by Ernst Loosen, who also is involved in Ste. Michelle’s Eroica Riesling collaboration.

The Riesling Rendezvous will start with a Grand Tasting on July 14th, held on the picturesque grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville from 5-8 p.m. More than 70 wineries from Australia, Austria, Canada, Germany, New Zealand, Slovakia, California, Idaho, Michigan, Oregon, New York, New Jersey and Washington will showcase the great diversity of Riesling from their regions.

The Riesling Rendezvous seminars will be staged at the Seattle Marriott Waterfront on July 15 to 16 and feature in-depth blind tastings and seminars led by distinguished speakers and producers, on topics such as Proving That Terroir Matters, The Electric Riesling Acid Test: The Effect of Sweetness & Acidity with Food, Marketing Riesling, Masters of Riesling and Riesling pairing demonstrations with cheese and smoked salmon...and more!

See also:
Coming Up in July: 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA
Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

German Winemakers

Germany will be represented by 11 elite winemakers.

A. Christmann

Weingut A. Christmann is located in Gimmeldingen in the Pfalz. It is owned and run in the 7th generation by Steffen Christmann, who is the current President of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

In 1845 Prof. Dr. Ludwig Häusser and his cousin Johann Martin founded a small winery as a hobby. During the next generations, the winery operations turned into a business. In 1894, Eduard Christmann married Henriette Häusser, the granddaughter of the founder. The estate bears the name of their son Arnold.

Picture: Steffen Christmann with Hugh Johnson in Berlin

Devotion to soil vitality and the preservation and individuality of the terroir has lead Steffen Christmann to practice organic agriculture, strict vineyard management, and severe yield reduction. In the cellar, Steffen Christmann employs long and gentle pressing with low pressure, clarification through natural sedimentation, and a slow, not too cool fermentation sometimes until as late as June with only one filtration.

Weingut A. Christmann Rieslings and Pinot Noirs are among Germany’s finest. 18.5 hectares, 70% Riesling.

Steffen Christmann will join us in Seattle.

Battenfeld-Spanier

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier is in Hohen-Sülzen (Rheinhessen) close to the city of Worms. It is run by H.O. Spanier and owned jointly by him and his wife Carolin Spanier-Gillot, also a gifted winemaker, who brought Weingut Kuehling-Gillot in Bodenheim (Rheinhessen) into the marriage.

The Spanier family has been making wine for generations. H.O. Spanier took over Weingut Spanier in 1993. Weingut Spanier was in 1997 merged with the neighboring Weingut Battenfeld to become Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier. Over the following years, H.O. Spanier singlehandedly transformed Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier into one of the most preeminent wine producers in Germany.

Picture: H.O. Spanier and Christian G.E. Schiller in Bodenheim

The vineyard area totals 18 hectares, with holdings in: Kirchenstück, Rosengarten und Sonnenberg (Hohen-Sülzen), as well as Frauenberg (Flörsheim). More than 50% of the area is planted with Riesling, as well as with Pinot Noir (20%), Pinot Blanc (8%), Silvaner, Chardonnay and other varieties. Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier is now fully biodynamic.

Although both estates continue to produce wine under their respective names – Weingut Kuehling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier - certain functions have been pooled. The tasting room and sales office for both estates is in Bodenheim at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot. As wine makers, both have stamped their wines with a unique signature, but Carolin and H.O. confirmed to me recently what I had heard from other sources: that H.O. is taking the lead in in terms of winemaking at both estates, while Carolin will be more active in terms of marketing and sales. Essentially, when it comes to the wines of Weingut Kuehling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier, they carry the signature of H.O. Spanier.

H.O. Spanier will join us in Seattle.

See more:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Clemens Busch

Weingut Clemens Busch is one of the top producers in Germany. And not only that. In a region where the humidity and extremely steep vineyards make most wine makers to rely on some level of pesticide, Clemens Busch is 100% organic/biodynamic.

In a region where noticeable residual sugar in the finished wine and low alcohol is the calling card, Clemens Busch’s focus is on dry premium Rieslings that can compete with the best dry whites in the world. But Clemens Busch also produces off-dry wines as well as powerfully complex, nobly sweet wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch at Kloster Eberbach

Weingut Clemens Busch is in Pünderich in the Mosel Valley, rather far down stream. The Busch family lives near the banks of the Mosel in a restored half- timbered house built in 1663. Because flooding can occur here, the vaulted cellar, built in the 1970s, lies nearby, on higher ground, at Clemens’s parents’ home.

The business has been run by Rita and Clemens Busch since 1986, with son Florian joining the team in 2008. Clemens is the fifth generation winemaker at this estate.

10 hectares, 95% Riesling

Clemens Busch will join us in Seattle.
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Dönnhoff

Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff is in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley. The Dönnhoff family has been making wine in this region since 1750.

A leading producer of Riesling wines in the world, including noble-sweet Rieslings. 80% of Dönnhoff's 20 hectares of vineyard holdings grow Riesling grapes, with the remaining twenty percent Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Hellmut Doennhoff in Mainz

Since 1971, Helmut Dönnhoff has been in charge. Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. He has been described by Hugh Johnson as having a "fanatical commitment to quality, and a remarkable natural talent for winemaking" and as a "superstar" of the region by Robert Parker. Helmut Doennhoff was named German Winemaker of the Year in 1999 by the Gault Millau Guide. He now works in tandem with his son Cornelius Doennhoff. 25 hectares.

Helmuth Doennhoff will join us in Seattle.

Dr. Loosen

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy and Ernst Loosen at Black Salt. Indeed, the forthcoming Germany trip of Annette Schiller includes a wine tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in the Mosel Valley.

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

Ernst Loosen will co-host the 4. Riesling Rendezvous.

See also:
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA  
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World;
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Weingut Fritz Haag

Weingut Fritz Haag is located in Brauneberg in the Mosel Valley. It was founded in 1605. It is now run and owned by Oliver Haag and his wife Jessica Haag.

Oliver’s father, Wilhelm Haag, was in charge bewtween 1957 to 2005. Wilhelm was named German Winemaker of the Year in 1994 (Gault Millau). Oliver graduated with a degree in oenology at Geisenheim College. Oliver's brother, Thomas Haag, has owned and run Weingut Schloss Lieser since 1993.

Weingut Fritz Haag owns a total of 16.5 hectares of Riesling vines around Brauneberg, with 6.5 hectares within Brauneberger Juffer and 3 hectares in the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard. Stephen Brook says that the estate's "forte lies in the superb range of sweeter styles, all produced without Süssreserve.

The average annual production is around 5,500 cases of wine, with wines produced at all Prädikat levels, as well as top level dry wines designated as Grosses Gewächs.

Oliver Haag will join us in Seattle.

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan

The Geheimer Rat von Bassermann Jordan Estate was established in the 1700s by Andreas Jordan, who had immigrated to the Pfalz from the Savoy region. When he died in 1848, his bequest was split three ways – an event known as the Jordansche Teilung (Teilung means “division” or “sharing” in German) – giving rise to Deidesheim’s three biggest wineries, which thenceforth developed independently of each other and still exist today. Today, they bear the names Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and von Winningen (Dr. Deinhard). They are now all owned and managed (management at Reichsrat von Buhl is in the process of being transferred ) by the entrepreneur Achim Niederberger. Gunther Hauck is the Managing Director and Ulrich Mell the winemaker.

49 hectares. 40,000 bottles.

Gunther Hauck will join us in Seattle.

Leitz

Weingut Josef Leitz dates back to 1744 and - like so many wineries in Germany - has passed from one generation to the next for virtually 4 centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, Weingut Josef Leitz had 3 hectares of vines and was virtually unknown among German wine connoisseurs. When you visit his winery today, you can see where Johannes Leitz comes from. The winery looks more like a regular house than the winery of a Winemaker of the Year.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Johannes Leitz at Schloss Johannisberg.

Early on, Johannes Leitz connected with Washington DC based importer Therry Theise, with a view of expanding production by pushing exports. Today, Johannes Leitz has successfully grown to 40 hectares of vineyard area and 90% of the production is sold in the export markets, notably the US.

The Gault Millau Weinguide Germany 2011 picked Johannes Leitz for Winemaker of the Year. “In the beginning not even people in Ruedesheim knew him. Now, his Riesling wines are regarded as examples of outstanding Rheingau Rieslings not only in his home town, but also in London and New” said the editor of the 2011 WeinGuide Gault Millau Deutschland, Joel Payne.

Johannes Leitz will join us in Seattle.

See also:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Maximin Grünhaus (Carl von Schubert)

The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river, about two kilometers upstream from where it joins the Mosel, and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: Abtsberg, Herrenberg, and Bruderberg. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert.

The estate was first documented in 966. The Schubert family purchased it in 1882. Since 1982, Dr. Carl von Schubert has managed the estate's vineyards. The Schlosskellerei von Schubert estate is more commonly referred to as Maximin Grünhaus.

The Abtsberg: Wines from this vineyard were originally destined for the table of the Abbot (or “Abt”) of the Abbey of St. Maximin. The site covers 35 acres, parts of which have been planted with vines for over a thousand years. The subsoil is blue Devonian slate and the hillside runs south-east to south-west, achieving a gradient of up to 70 percent.

The Herrenberg: Wines from this site were made specially for the Abbey’s choirmasters. Extending over 40 acres, the site benefits from deep soils with good water retention, over a base of red Devonian slate.

The Bruderberg: The smallest of the three Grünhaus vineyards, covering just 2.5 acres, the Bruderberg provided wine for the monks (or ‘brothers’). The site has the same Devonian slate soil as the Abtsberg next door.

Carl von Schubert will join us in Seattle.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Since 1983, Annegret Reh-Gartner’s has directed the more than 600-year-old estate, which her father Günther Reh acquired in 1978. Achieving high quality has always been the focal point of her endeavors, just as her wines have always been subject to high standards. The conscious decision to reduce the size of the estate to 36 ha (ca. 90 acres) was an important step, for it enabled the estate to work more selectively in its vineyards and further improve quality. The entire team regards each of the estate’s 12 ha (30 acres) of steep sites in the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer valleys as both a wonderful gift and a tremendous challenge. Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is one of the region’s first estates to successfully offer Grosse Gewächse wines.

Annegret Reh-Gartner has been married for more than 25 years to Gerhard Gartner, who defended two Michelin stars in his Aachen-based restaurant Gala for over 10 years. He was recognized as one of the finest chefs of Germany. After taking his final curtain call on the gourmet stage, he devoted himself to his second passion – wine.

With a history that spans more than 650 years (1349-1999), Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is one of the most traditional estates in the Mosel region. The von Kesselstatt dynasty immigrated to the electorate of Trier in the 14th century.

Four monasteries of St. Maximin and their vineyard holdings were purchased between 1854 and 1889. These remain the basis of the estate to this day.

On the Mosel: Josephshof in Graach with 8 ha (20 acres) of vines in 1858 and Domklausenhof in Piesport with 8 ha (20 acres) of vines in 1858.

On the Saar: Abteihof in Oberemmel with 21 ha (52 acres) of vines in 1889.

On the Ruwer: St. Irminenhof in Kasel with 8.5 ha (21 acres) of vines in 1854.

From 1746 until 1999, estate headquarters were in Palais Kesselstatt in Trier, one of the most beautiful baroque palaces north of the Alps. It was built between 1740 and 1746 by Johann Valentin Thomann, a student of Balthasar Neumann.

Palais Kesselstatt, with its historical vaulted cellars and idyllic courtyard, were lovingly renovated by Günther Reh after he purchased the estate. Today, it is the site of the estate’s wine pub, “Weinstube Kesselstatt.”

In 1987, after extensive reconstruction and building, the estate moved its winemaking facilities to Schloss Marienlay in the Ruwer Valley, which has also served as the estate’s headquarters since 1999.

Annegret Reh-Gartner will join us in Seattle.

Robert Weil

Weingut Robert Weil is without any doubt the Rheingau’s flagship winery and one of the top wineries in Germany. In the Feinschmecker Weinguide Deutschland ranking, Weingut Robert Weil is, along with Weingut Dr. Loosen, one of the 16 German wineries with the maximum number of 5 F’s.

Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. With 75 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Weingut Robert Weil is located in the heart of Kiedrich, a village first documented in the year 950. Kiedrich Turmberg and Kiedrich Gräfenberg, the estate’s top vineyards, are among the finest sites in the Rheingau.

The estate cultivates 70 hectares (173 acres) of vineyards, of which 100 percent are planted with Riesling. Kiedrich Turmberg and Kiedrich Gräfenberg are situated on a southwest-facing ridge and a steep cliff with inclines of up to 60 percent. Their soils consist of deep and medium-deep stony, fragmented phyllite partially mixed with loess and loam. This combination of barren stony soils, an ideal microclimate, steep inclination and southwestern exposure allows the grapes to hang on the vine for a very long time. The resulting wines are complex and rich in minerals, with great elegance and finesse.

The vineyards are cultivated in an environmentally friendly manner: organic fertilizer is used as needed; green cover is planted in alternating rows to optimize the humus content of the soil; herbicides are never used, and other plant protection measures are used only sparingly and with respect for habitat. Grapes are harvested by hand, with an extremely critical selection that involves up to 17 rounds through the vineyards.

Wilhelm Weil will join us in Seattle.

See also:

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Coming Up in July:
4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Wine Blogger Christian G.E. Schiller from schiller-wine Featured Guest of #SommChat on Twitter

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 

he Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

$
0
0
Summer of Riesling 2013

Summer of Riesling is starting today. Hundreds of restaurants in the US are celebrating the Summer of Riesling from June 21 to September 21, 2013. The restaurants agreed to feature at least three Rieslings by the glass throughout the entire summer, along with their bottle selections.

31 Days of German Riesling

As part of the Summer of Riesling, during the month of July, participating restaurants are serving at least two German Rieslings and retailers offer at least one in-store tasting.

Summer of Riesling Party in Washington DC with Annette and Christian Schiller

If you are in Washington DC on July 21, please join Annette and Christian Schiller for a "Summer of Riesling" party from 6 am to 9 am at their home in McLean, VA, 22101, 6404 Woodsong Court. Please bring a bottle of your favorite Riesling, dry, fruity-sweet, noble-sweet, from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Finger Lakes, Virginia or anywhere else in the world and rsvp to aschiller@ombiasypr.com.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Stefan Ress, Weingut Balthasar Ress (Hattenheim, Rheingau) at Kloster Eberbach. Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim is one of the stops at the forthcoming wine and culture trip to Germany, organized by Annette Schiller from ombiasy wine tours:Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch at Kloster Eberbach

See also:
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two methods applied in Germany – but neither in Austria nor Alsace - for making these sweet-style Rieslings. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it; as a result, you get a deliciously sweet and low alcohol wine. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve (sterilized juice) to achieve the desired degree of sweetness. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

Summer of Riesling

The Summer of Riesling concept was created in 2008 when Manhattan restaurateur and Riesling fanatic Paul Grieco (Hearth Restaurant, Terroir E.Vil, Terroir, Tribeca and Terroir Murray Hill) decided that during the summer the ONLY white wine that Terroir customers could get was Riesling. The following years the Summer of Riesling expanded in various ways, initially by enlisting other Manhattan wine bars as part of the celebration and adding a concert where the only alcoholic beverage available was Riesling—no beer, no spirits. In 2011 Paul took the Summer of Riesling national, with support from the International Riesling Foundation (IRF), an organization specifically created to promote Rieslings from around the world.

Paul Grieco: The Summer of Riesling

The Summer of Riesling in Paul Grieco o-tone:

What is it? - a love affair with the world's greatest grape expressed in full Technicolor.

Why? - because we must overcome this hackneyed belief that the glorious diversity of Riesling is also a fault...simply put, no grape can do what the Riesling grape can do.

Picture: Paul Grieco (Photo: Summer of Riesling)

Where? - every corner of the globe where wine is available.

When? - from June 21st to September 21st (we ain't kidding when we call it the Summer of Riesling!).

How? - by bringing everyone together and handing them a glass of Riesling and engaging them in conversation, with the thrust of the dialogue centering on:

Balance...of bone-crunching acidity and potential sweetness
Complexity...like a conversation with Jeffrey Sachs
Delicacy...as if Benjamin Millepied was dancing across your tongue
Longevity...suffice it to say, Moses lived a brief life compared to bottles of this wine
Sense of Place...even Bigfoot's footprint cannot encapsulate all the terroir that Riesling contains

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions - I have Counted Five

How does a Sweet German Riesling Become Sweet?

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

American and German Winemakers Among the 7 Winners of Trophies of Excellence of the Riesling Du Monde Competition 2010

German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer

German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

Dr. Frank Wines from Finger Lakes Featured at State Luncheon for Chancellor Merkel in Washington, D.C., USA

Celebrating the Arrival of the Finger Lakes 2010 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

Celebrating the Release of the Finger Lakes 2011 Riesling in Washington DC, USA

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC

A German Riesling Dinner at Open Kitchen in Washington DC, USA

“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA

Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace

Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

In the Glass: Hugel et Fils wines at the cuisine des emotions de Jean Luc Brendel at Riquewihr in Alsace

Visiting Yann-Leon Beyer at Maison Leon Beyer in Eguisheim in Alsace

The Wines of Domaine Lucien Albrecht and the Food of La Chaumiere in Washington DC, USA/France

The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Claude Koeberle at Bazin's on Church in Vienna, Virginia

Claude Koeberle, former famous chef and now famous winemaker, was in town (Washington DC area) and I had the pleasure of spending an evening with him at Bazin’s on Church during a winemaker dinner organized by Al McCosh, owner of Nice Legs, and Chef Patrick Bazin.

Now approaching 60, Claude Koeberle is a fascinating person. He is talkative, opinionated (“Americans grow up with sugar: that explains why they like fruit-forward wines - which do not pair well with food. Europeans grow up with olive oil and Asians with bitter tasting ingredients.”) and devoted to Pinot Noir with religious fervor (“Cabernet Sauvignon is an evil weed”).

The Early Years in Europe

Claude Koeberle has spent the early part of his life in Europe his adulthood on the other side of the Atlantic. He was born and raised in the Bourgogne. He comes from a family that owns vineyards and makes wine. Claude’s father, Paul Kœberlé, was a famous French pastry chef. Claude began his career as a chef under the tutelage of Paul Bocuse in Lyon, for many the greatest chefs of our times, although Claude does not appreciate him as much as I and my wife Annette Schiller do. His cookbook remains the bible for Annette. The cooking apprenticeship was followed by a pastry training at the side of his father. He then worked for his mentor Alain Chapel, also in Lyon. Claude Koeberle: “In my view, Alain Chapel in Lyon and Frédy Girardet in Switzerland had the greatest influence on moderne cuisine.”

Pictures: Chatting before the Dinner

From there, he moved to Paris to run “Le Vivarois” that became a 3 star restaurant in 1972, with Claude Koeberle at its helm, along with owner/chef Claude Peyrot, who “was never in the kitchen, but always with his guests in the restaurant” says Claude Koeberle. Typically, the French 3 star Michelin restaurants close for an extended period in August and Claude would always go back to the Bourgogne, to work in the wine cellar and the vineyards. This is where he learned winemaking from his mentor, Henri Jayer. 

Pictures: Getting ready for the Dinner

One summer, however, he took on a short-term assignment in Chicago in the US. And he never returned to Europe. “My mother would not talk to me for 4 years” Claude said. This is when the US career started, in 1979. Incidentally, Le Vivarois lost its third star in 1983; today, it does not exist anymore.

A Chef in the US

From Chicago, Claude moved to the West Coast to work for Wolfgang Puck. From there, other positions followed. In the early 1980s, Claude Koeberle was the pastry chef of the Les Anges in Santa Monica, where he created a much talked about chocolate cake that he called "la Mort au Chocolat" ("Death by Chocolate").

Pictures: During Dinner

Claude then made a name for himself cooking at various Los Angeles restaurants, including Ma Maison, before he disappeared into corporate anonymity with the El Torito chain for a year and a half. In the mid-1980s, Claude re-emerged as the chef/owner of 30th Street Bistro in Newport Beach. In the late 1980s, he opened Opera in Santa Monica, a chic pan-Mediterranean cuisine restaurant and Tamayo in East L.A. 

Pictures: Claude Koeberle, Patrick Bazin and Christian G.E. Schiller

Today, Claude is an investor in Le Bouchon and The French Laundry (with Thomas Keller), and a partner in Frances in San Francisco. His next project is soon to open in L.A.: Republique with Chef Walter Manzke ( Patina, Church and State, Bastide).

Pictures: Claude Koeberle and Patrick and Julia Bazin

Claude Koeberle won a James Beard Award, but he made his fortune creating the K World Cuisine, Inc.. He is also one of the driving forces behind Creative Culinary Concepts, Inc.

Soliste

After 35 years working in the kitchen in top restaurants, both in Europe and in the US, he moved on to wine. Together with longtime friend and partner, Donald Plumley and their respective spouses (Elisabeth and Beth), Claude started Soliste in 2005.

The name Soliste is derived from the special barrel or “soliste” that Burgundian winemakers reserve for their family and friends. The winemaker is Ryan Zepaltas (Zepaltas Wines and Siduri Wines).

Claude Koeberle: “A three star chef has to be driven by the desire for perfection. That’s what I have always been, in the kitchen, the vineyard and the wine cellar”. The Soliste wines are the results of this approach. Claude believes that great wines and great cuisine are very similar and must start with exceptional ingredients, farmers and vineyards. "Our quest to create wines of great finesse and complexity requires patience, tenacity, and a singular focus on uncompromising standards.”
Claude is a believer in Single Vineyard, Single Clone and Single Cooperage wines - what he calls MonoClone® and since 2009, all Pinot Noir releases have reflected this: A single clone, married with a specific site, climate and exposure, and then aged individually in a single cooperage.

Pictures: Claude Koeberle and Al McCosh, Owner of Nice Legs (Distributor)

Claude explained that the Soliste team manages its vineyards 100% regardless whether Soliste owns or leases them. Soliste wines are produced in very small quantities and are allocated through a mailing list. They are also available in upscale restaurants.

Bazin’s on Church and Patrick and Julie Bazin

Bazin's on Church is the creation of Patrick and Julie Bazin. Patrick Bazin has been one of Washington's premier chefs for the last two decades, most recently as the Executive Chef at The Occidental Grill in downtown D.C.

Picture: Bazin's on Church

His wife Julie worked for years imparting her great taste in clothing (and life) to her loyal clients at James Clothiers. Together they have created an exquisite restaurant that fully reflects their refined palates and offers an inviting dining experience.

The Winemaker  Dinner

Amuses-bouches


1st Course

Jumbo Lump Crabmeat Salad

Avocado, toasted almond, grilled pineapple vinaigrette


2012 Lune et Soleil Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County $30

Claude Koeberle: Inspired by the great late Didier Dagueneau, Lune et Soleil is crafted from a single organically farmed vineyard. The wine is 100% pressed whole clusters and aged in a 600 Liter barrique of special thick staves to minimize oxygen transfer and there is no malolactic fermentation to preserve acidity, verve and length.

Tasting Notes: The wine reveals elegant aromas of exotic white flowers, citrus blossoms, lemongrass and peppery verbena, with hints of tropical fruit, melon and green almond. The rich and delicate tropical aromas are followed seamlessly from the nose by a fresh taste of pineapple, guava, lychee and waxy fruit giving the wine fantastic vivacity. The middle palette shows great minerality and finesse, with focused aromas of stone fruit and spicy kaffir lime, moving into a long razor sharp, Sancerre like finish of flint, granite river stones and grapefruit peel.


2nd Course

Oven Roasted Wolffish 

Lemon-tarragon sauce, zucchini casserole


2010 Soliste Chardonnay L'Age D'Or, Russian River Valley $43

Tasting Notes: The wine reveals elegant aromas of baked apple and pears, vanilla, and grapefruit mingled with toasted grains and seashells. The soft and smooth aromas are followed seamlessly from the nose by a complex infusion of apple tarte tatin, quince, and lemon curd, subtly silken texture with hint of black tea leaves, sea brine, and chalk. The middle palate carries on with an impressive density, salted buttery caramel intertwined with tart citrus zest and exotic spices. The finish is all about width and acid minerality, spiked with spicy kafir lime peel, stone fruit pit, and bitter almonds.


3rd Course

Shiitake Mushroom Crusted Rockfish 

Parmesan orzo, crisp onions, mushroom jus


2010 Narcisse Soliste Forêt Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir $37

Tasting Notes: Mysterious depth and luminosity showing density and structure, dark boysenberry gemlike in the glass, a clear reflection of tannin purity. Extremely exotic aromas of bitter caramelized wild cherries, boysenberry, and earthiness interlaced with oriental spices, black tea, espresso grounds and refined scents of sous-bois (forest floor). As the wine evolves in the glass or decanter, the aromatics become more focused and linear with dark cherry compote aromatics, superbly elegant and powerful, adding bitter chocolate and black truffles. The palate delivers extraordinary texture and depth with layers of exotic spice and black tea. This is a wine of great depth, powerful, with bitter caramel dark wild cherries and spiced plums, spiked with black pepper, cocoa nibs, and vanilla fat. The mid-palate is definitely earthy (oh, Vosne Romanée here you come) laced of musty sous-bois (forest floor), black tea, anise, and dry herbal aromatics, all in superb balance and harmony. Positively refined in texture but palpably dense in tannic concentration, the finish is simply infinite.


4th Course

Beef "Two Ways" 

Braised short ribs, NY strip loin, potato puree, white truffle sauce


2009 "Out of the Shadows" Syrah $57

Winemaking: Early morning harvest brought the grapes to the winery early to keep the berries cold and sugars in control. After field sort, 20% whole clusters were reserved and the balance was destemmed. Traditional foot punch downs during a smooth fermentation provided gentle extraction while preserving the color and flavors developed during the cold soak. 100% French oak 450 liter Barriques from Burgundy were used, 19% new and the balance neutral. After 22 months in barrel we bottled in late August.

Pictures: Claude Koeberle and Christian G.E. Schiller

Tasting Notes: Visually, Out of the Shadows displays deep cassis with a dark garnet robe, a classic Syrah. On the nose there are elegant aromatics of violets, cassis, blackberry and wild plums (quetches) layered with licorice, bacon and herbal undertones. As the wine evolves in the glass or decanter, the aromatics become more voluptuous, conveying a tremendous sense of power, superbly focused and complex adding tobacco leaves, espresso and vanilla bean. On the palate, up front the wine is a muscular concentration of cassis, plums and dark wild cherries, reminiscent of freshly sundried berry compote, interlaced with licorice, mint, and sage. This would be a Beast of a wine if the tannins had not been tamed by our commitment to age the wine for 22 months in large barrels. The middle palate becomes velvety, yet incredibly rich, with a wet stone minerality that is astonishing as the smooth tannins add exotic spice and bitter chocolate. Phenomenal acidity and balance add to the wine liveliness and poise. The Finish is long, elegant, and effortless. It is a powerful caldron of tart cassis, black cherries, bitter caramel and tobacco leaves creating length, complexity and finesse.


5th Course

Blueberry-Nectarine Cake


The End


schiller-wine: Related Postings 

The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California

Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California 

Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Meeting Bill Holloran from Oregon and Tasting His Holloran and Stafford Hill Wines

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

German winemakers in the World: Robert Stemmler (USA)

Meeting Winemaker Dianna Lee and Tasting Her Siduri Wines and Her Novi Family Wines

The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany

$
0
0
Picture: The First Lady Sipping German Wine (Source: Getty Images)

President Obama spent a day in Berlin, Germany, last week - his first visit in Germany as President of the USA. The day ended with a formal dinner at Schloss Charlottenburg, where Barack and Michelle Obama got the chance to taste the excellent cuisine of 2 star Michelin Chef Tim Raue and the 5 German wines he had selected, all from Weingut Markus Schneider in the Pfalz and Weingut Dreissigacker in Rheinhessen. Tim Raue: “The 2 winemakers and I represent very well the modern Germany: Globally thinking and at home in the region.”

Picture: Berlin Brandenburger Tor

Tim Raue’s selection was a big surprise for the fans of German wine in the USA, who were closely watching what wines their President and his wife would be served: No Kabinett, no Spaetlese, no Auslese, no Mosel wine among the selected wines – the wines that are so popular in the US! So, what wines did Chancelor Merkel serve President Obama and what wines did she not serve President Obama?

Picture: Markus Schneider, Tim Raue and Wife, Joachim Dreissigacker in Front of Schloss Charlottenburg (Source: Belvini.de Weinversand)

See also:
State Dinner at the White House: Chancellor Merkel Dined and Wined with President Obama - The Wines they Drank and the Wines they did not Drink

The Wines

Five wines were served - 3 wines from Weingut Dreissigacker and 2 wines from Weingut Markus Schneider. Tim Raue: “The wines of Jochen Dreissigacker and Markus Schneider have been served for years in my restaurant. They are modern German wines, aromatic and juicy, yet elegant; they go very well with my food and were very appropriate for the occasion.”

Picture: The Wines (Source: Belvini.de Weinversand)

2011 Dreissigacker Riesling Sekttrocken (Euro 12.50, Belvini.de)

2012 Markus Schneider Weissburgunder trocken (Euro 8.40)

2012 Markus Schneider Katui Sauvignon Blanc trocken (Euro 9.90)

2009 Dreissigacker WUNDERWERK Spätburgunder trocken (Euro 21.50)

2011 Dreissigacker Bechtheimer Heiligkreuz Rieslaner Beerenauslese (Euro 23.50)

Jochen Dreissigacker and Markus Schneider were very proud that their wines were selected: “Our wines are being poured all over the world – in Dubai, Norway, South Africa and of course in the United States. Our wines have not yet been served in the White House. But with the dinner at Schloss Charlottenburg we hopefully got a bit closer to that. We hope that President Obama liked our wines. German wines can compete with the best wines in the world.”

The Guests

President Obama’s sister and the Dallas Mavericks’s Captain Dirk Nowitzky were among the 250 guests.

Pictures: Dirk Nowitzky Chatting with President Obama (Source: Reuters)

The Food

Tim Raue: “In putting together the menu, I let myself inspire by my home town Berlin. Therefore I served “Kabeljau (cod) mit Schmorgurken, Königsberger Klopse (meatballs) und Bienenstich (a cake).”

Weißer Spargel (White Asparagus) und Zitronenschaum mit Saiblingskaviar und Sauerampfer,

Kabeljau (Cod) mit Schmorgurken, Creme von Staudensellerie und Estragon,

Königsberger Klopse (Meetballs) vom Kalb, Muskatblütenbrösel, Rote Bete-Apfel-Salat und Stampfkartoffeln sowie

Bienenstich mit Aprikosensorbet (Cake with Sorbet)

Pictures: The Menu (Source: Die Welt - Armin Akhtar)

Tim Raue

One of Germany’s top chef’s, Tim Raue, was long associated with the cooking of Hotel Adlon in Berlin; in 2010, the Chef de Cuisine left the prestigious hotel and together with his wife opened up their own restaurant. The Asian inspired Restaurant Tim Raue, which is located in the district of Kreuzberg just around the corner from Checkpoint Charlie, quickly earned its first and recently its second Michelin star and became the talk of the town. Besides the avant-garde take on Asian cuisine, it’s the Chef himself who draws people into the restaurant. Tim Raue is both passionate and easy-going but is his personal story has been everything but easy; before finding his calling in cooking, Tim Raue had a rough childhood and was a member in a street gang in Berlin Kreuzberg.

Weingut Dreissigacker

Joachim Dreissigacker: “A few years ago, when the time came for me to take over the family vineyard and realize my own ideas and vision, I made a decision. I wanted to take something good and make it truly excellent, to transform good flavour into an exciting experience, and elevate pleasant wines to an inspiring experience. In all that I did, I worked with the unique mineral composition of our vineyards, the local climate and microclimate and harnessed my deep passion for winemaking. Ecology, sustainability and the respectful use of the existing resources has gradually changed the face of our vineyards. Imagination and pragmatism were my daily helpers in my search for the perfect vine. Since I started cultivating the vineyards, several of my wines have attracted a certain interest. This is a source of great pleasure to me, as it keeps me inspired, keen and courageous in my mission to create exciting, multi-facetted wines of exceptional quality that will fascinate wine enthusiasts.”

Weingut Markus Schneider

Weingut Markus Schneider is a new winery, founded only a few years ago. Wine maker Markus Schneider is one of Germany’s shooting stars, who has made himself a name within a short period with innovative, non-traditional wines, in particular new-world-style red wines.

Weingut Markus Schneider is in Ellerstadt in the Pfalz. Markus Schneider learned how to make wine at Weingut Dr. Buerklin-Wolf in the Pfalz from 1991 to 1994. His father - Klaus Schneider – had grown grapes for many years as a member of the local wine cooperative, before leaving the wine co-operative and founding his own winery in 1990, with the view of setting up a winery for his son Markus. Four years later, Markus took over and 1994 was the first vintage made by and bottled under the name of Markus Schneider. In the following years, Markus Schneider increasingly shifted to making blends, based on international grape varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Merlot, that were a novelty for Germany.

Picture: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, Kai Buhrfeindt, Grand Cru Weinrestaurant, Christian G.E. Schiller, Markus Schneider, Weingut Markus Schneider in Frankfurt am Main

At the same time, the wines were marketed with non-traditional, modern labels and wine names; these wines became increasingly appealing for young and hip wine consumers. Markus Schneider markets all his wines as QbA, without any reference to the predicate level (that have been dominating the German wine classification for decades) and without any reference to the vineyard(s) were the grapes come from (moving away from the terroir principle that has become increasingly important for tradional German wine producers). Here are some of Markus Schneider’s wines: Blackprint, Rotwein Alte Reben, M Spaetburgunder, Tohuwabohu, Chardonnay, Riesling and Kaitui.

In 2003, Markus Schneider was voted Newcomer of the Year by the Feinschmecker and in 2006, Discovery of the Year. Within only a few years, Markus Schneider had shot to the top echelons of the German wine industry and established a solid position. Since 2007, Weingut Markus Schneider is in the 3 (out of 5) grapes category of Gault Millau.

See also:
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties– Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

What Angela Merkel Served

A German Sekt: 2011 Dreissigacker Riesling Sekt brut

Not well known outside of Germany, sparkling wine has a long, rich tradition in Germany, where it has been called “Sekt” since the late 1800s. Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range.

Picture: The Table of President Obama and Chancellor Merkel (Source: Getty Imgages)

Increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but).

See also:
German Wine Basics: Sekt
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France
German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

A German Pinot Noir: 2009 Dreissigacker WUNDERWERK Spätburgunder trocken

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly starts to take note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Today, Germany is the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir (called Spaetburgunder in Germany), after France and the US, with more planted than Australia and New Zealand combined. However, despite being the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir, the country exports just over 1% of its production.

See also:
One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden
German Pinot Noirs are increasingly coming to the US Market
The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance

Except for the Dessert Wine, only Dry/Trocken Wines

Except for the dessert wines, all wines were dry. No wonder: Today, wine loving Germans drink dry. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market.

Picture: Angela Merkel and Michelle Obama Sipping German Wine (Source: Reuters)

See also:
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

The Wines Angela Merkel Did not Serve

No Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese

Tim Raue did not select any Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese wines. These are fruity-sweet wines, typically with a low alcohol content. These are the wines the large majority of German wine lovers in the USA associate with Germany and would have expected to be served at the dinner with American President. When you go to the trendy restaurant Spruce in San Francisco, which has won many awards for its exceptional German wine portfolio, these are the wines you find there.

No Mosel Wines

There were no wines from the Mosel Valley, many American wine lovers equate with German wine. No Dr. Loosen, JJ Pruem, Egon Mueller, Fritz Haag, to name a few of the icons from the Mosel Valley. I guess, Tim Raue wanted to make the point that there is much more than the wines from the Mosel Valley in Germany.

No VDP Producers

I think none of my many American wine friends has ever heard of Markus Schneider or Dreissigacker. No wonder, they are not members of the VDP, the German elite winemaker association with 200 or so members. German exports of premium wines are clearly in the hands of the VDP; they account for a large share of German wine exports. Again, I guess, Tim Raue wanted to make the point that there is much more out there than the 200 names of the VDP.

Overall, there are about 30.000 winemakers in Germany and many of them produce excellent wines. Markus Schneider will never become a member of the VDP, given his approach to wine making and marketing. He is not mainstream enough to be able to fit into the VDP framework. Dressigacker, on the other hand, is already in line to be accepted by the VDP. It is just a matter of time.

See also:
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

No Wines from the Region

Finally, Chancellor Merkel, who was born in former West-Germany but grew up in the former GDR, could have served wines from the two wine regions that are in the vicinity of Berlin and that used to belong to the GDR: Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut. These are emerging wine regions as the production of premium wines had come to a halt under socialism. There are a number of talented winemakers, but almost nothing is exported. These are small wine growing areas, the demand in the cities of Dresden, Leipzig, Berlin, Weimar, Erfurt for these wines by the visiting tourists as well as by the locals is high. Thus, prices of the wines from these areas tend to be not competitive, both in the rest of Germany and the international market.

See:
Weingut Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany
Weingut Lützkendorf in Saale Unstrut in Germany
Visiting Andre Gussek and his Weingut Winzerhof Gussek in Saale Unstrut, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling and Co World Tour 2010 in New York

In the Glass: 2009 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken and 2009 Riesling Kiedricher Graefenberg Spaetlese, both Weingut R. Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

German Wine Basics: Sekt

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France

German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Weingut Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany

Weingut Lützkendorf in Saale Unstrut in Germany

Visiting Andre Gussek and his Weingut Winzerhof Gussek in Saale Unstrut, Germany 

Kick-off of the “Summer of Riesling 2013” with Chef Driss Zahidi, a (German) Dr. Loosen, an (Austrian) Tegernseehof and an (Alsatian) Trimbach Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Virginia, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Chef Chef Driss Zahidi at Le Mediterranean Bistro

In the US, June 21 was the Kick-off Day of the Summer of Riesling 2013 that runs until September 21. Hundreds of restaurants in the US are celebrating the Summer of Riesling with special Riesling offerings on their wine menus. Annette Schiller (Ombiasy Wine Tours) and I decided to kick-off the event at Le Mediterranean Bistro, a new restaurant that Chef Driss Zahidi opened just a few weeks ago in the Washington DC area. We were joined by 5 friends and our son-in-law Chris. We had a fantastic evening with Chef Driss Zahidi’s outstanding French food and Rieslings from Dr. Loosen, Trimbach and Tegernseehof.

Summer of Riesling 2013

What is the Summer of Riesling? The Summer of Riesling concept was created in 2008 when Manhattan restaurateur and Riesling fanatic Paul Grieco (Hearth Restaurant, Terroir E.Vil, Terroir, Tribeca and Terroir Murray Hill) decided that during the summer the ONLY white wine that Terroir customers could get was Riesling. The following years the Summer of Riesling expanded in various ways, initially by enlisting other Manhattan wine bars as part of the celebration. In 2011 Paul took the Summer of Riesling to the national level. Here is a link to the restaurants in the US and elsewhere that are participating in the 2013 Summer of Riesling.

Picture: A (German) Dr. Loosen, an (Austrian) Tegernseehof and an (Alsatian) Trimbach Riesling at Le Mediterranean Bistro in Virginia, USA

See more:
Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

Le Mediterranean Bistro

Le Mediterranean Bistro is located right in the center of old Town Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC area. Opening the door to the restaurant, I immediately was enveloped by a very positive vibe; a cosy, intimate French Bistro, which brought back good memories from the days when I lived in Paris in the 7th arrondissement. You could mistake Le Mediterranean Bistro for a bistro in Paris.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

Chef Driss Zahidi

Le Mediterranean Bistro is the fulfillment of a dream that Chef Driss Zahidi, whom we know for many years, carried along since he arrived in this country more than 10 years ago. Chef Driss was born in Casablanca, Morocco in 1974, the eldest of five children, and he became his mother’s steadfast helper in the kitchen. In 1988 he graduated with a master’s degree in Physics Option Thermal Energy from a university in France. Yet, he never worked in that field. Instead, he pursued a career as a chef. Chef Driss Zahidi never attended culinary school but his chemistry background has proven very helpful when connecting the dots between cuisines from his native Morocco, Spain, Italy and France as he has perfected his skills as a chef.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidi, Zakaria Echchami and the Large Blackboard

When he moved to the US in 2000, Driss got a job with Le Petit Mistral in McLean, which featured Provencal cuisine in an upscale French dining atmosphere. It was there, were our ways crossed: I as a lover of French food and Driss as a line chef of Le Petit Mistral. His next stages were the Corner Bistro (Executive Chef), just next to Le Petit Mistral, the celebrated Evo Bistro (Co-owner and Executive Chef) and Bistro Vivant (Executive Chef). Now, he has opened Le Mediterranean Bistro, where he is fully in charge and sole owner.

Still talk of the town (in McLean) is the Corner Bistro, now closed, a small Tapas restaurant and wine bar, with Chef Driss Zahidi in the back and womanizer Sidney Sakho in the front. Here, Driss impressed with his native North African twist on traditional Tapas classics. At celebrated Evo Bistro, Chef Driss Zahidi’s cooking earned him top billings from the Washington Post and other regional publications. At newly opened Bistro Vivant, he helped to set the new French bistro on a successful path.

See:
Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

The Setting

Now: Le Mediterranean Bistro - in the former Persian restaurant Sabzi space- with 55 seats. Le Mediterranean Bistro does not have a bar, where you can hang around for happy hour or eat when you are by yourself.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

There is a big chalkboard of specials on the wall, similar to the one of Chef Driss’ previous gig, Bistro Vivant in McLean.

Pictures: Le Mediterranean Bistro in Fairfax, in the larger Washington DC Area

The bistro’s small crew includes Driss’ brother, Hicham, who used to work at Evo Bistro and also at Bistro Vivant with Driss.

The Wines

The wine list is mostly French, but also includes other areas, starting from around $30 up to $300 per bottle. It is an excellent selection. Some of the wines can be ordered by the glass. Our focus that evening was on the Rieslings that we brought along, but we later shifted to a Chablis, a Gigondas, both for around $60, and a Linden Claret for $58 (from Virginia).

See on Linden:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

The Food

The food is classic French bistro food, with Mediterranean and Moroccan flair. Chef Patron Driss Zahidi: “I am aiming for an elegant and unsurpassed modern French cuisine by using the very finest seasonal ingredients and employing both classic and modern techniques. I work with local farmers to get the best and freshest ingredients.”

Fuad Issa: "I have known Driss for ten years, I continue to be amazed by his creativity and his ability to balance different subtle flavors." Annette Schiller: “I loved the flavors, the combination of spices - the menu leaves my mouth watering for more.”

What we Ate

Starters

Drunken Kiss Oysters


Onion Soup: Five onions soup with gruyere cheese


Escargots


Main Courses

Scallops Provencal: With tomato, capers, olives, basil and Chablis


Alaskan Halibut: With saffron, cauliflower and beurre blanc


Sole Meuniere


Lamb Chops: In black olive sauce with spinach


Ravioli: Butternut squash ravioli with mushrooms and sage cream


Desserts

Tiramisu


Crème Brûlée


Chocolate Ice-cream


Other Tempting Suggestions

Oeuf Pôche Meurette: Poached Organic Amish egg in a red wine sauce, mushroom duxelle, caramelized onions and bacon

Salade Lyonnaise: Frisée lettuce, Lardon, poached egg, bacon vinaigrette & toasted brioche

Terrine De Foie De Volaille: Chicken liver mousse served with toasted brioche and pickled beets
Octopus Kebab: Grilled octopus served with fennel relish and niçoise tapenade

Nouilles aux Fruits de Mer: House made tagliatelle with langoustine, scallops, mussels, razor clams in creamy sauce
Loup de Mer: Mediterranean Sea Bass in papillote with braised fennel, tomato and scallions

Dajaj Tagine “Cooked Sous Vide”: Moroccan style seasoned Virginia Amish Chicken breast with preserved lemon, red olives and onions in saffron jus

Lamb Shank: Moroccan style braised lamb shank with tagine spices, served with couscous, baby carrots and turnips & rich lamb jus

Onglet Steak Minute: Sautéed hanger steak served with oxtail potato galette and mushroom & horseradish nage

Steak au Poivre: Dry aged Local NY strip loin steak served with local farms spring vegetables and green peppercorn sauce

3 Dry Rieslings from Germany, Alsace and Austria

We started the evening with 3 Rieslings:

NV Dr L Sparkling Wine Riesling from Weingut Dr. Loosen in Germany

See more on Dr. Loosen:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

The upcoming Ombiasy Wine and Culture Tour to Germany will include a stop at Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen with Erni Loosen:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013




2009 Riesling from Domaine Trimbach in Alsace

See more on Domaine Trimbach:
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace



2010 Riesling from Weingut Tegernseehof in Austria

See more on Tergernseehof (KWSelection)
“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA
Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA


Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two methods applied in Germany – but neither in Austria nor Alsace - for making these sweet-style Rieslings. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it; as a result, you get a deliciously sweet and low alcohol wine. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve (sterilized juice) to achieve the desired degree of sweetness. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

Pictures: Chef Driss Zahidid and his Happy Guests

Summer of Riesling Party in Washington DC with Annette and Christian Schiller

If you are in Washington DC on July 21, please join Annette and Christian Schiller for a "Summer of Riesling" party from 6 pm to 9 pm at their home in McLean, VA. Please bring a bottle of your favorite Riesling, dry, fruity-sweet, noble-sweet, from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Finger Lakes, Virginia or anywhere else in the world and rsvp to aschiller@ombiasypr.com.

Picture: Chef Driss Zahidi and Christian G.E.Schiller at Evo Bistro, a few Years ago

See:
Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions - I have Counted Five

How does a Sweet German Riesling Become Sweet?

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC

Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace

“Wine Ambassador” Klaus Wittauer Presented Austrian Wines at the Embassy of Austria in Washington DC, USA

Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Dennis Cakebread and his Wines, Napa Valley, at EVO Bistro, Virginia

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Christian G.E. Schiller and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia

Anne Cuvelier from the Cuvelier family (that owns, inter alia, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux) was in town (Washington DC) for the Heart’s Delight Event. On the side, Annette Schiller from wine tours by ombiasy organized a winemaker dinner with her at Eola on P Street in Dupont Circle in Washington DC. Anne also wanted to visit Virginia wineries. We visited 3 of the leading wineries in Virginia, all three of them intertwined with Bordeaux: Boxwood, Linden, RdV.

For more on the visits with Anne Cuvleier, see:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux (forthcoming)

See here for the Leoville Poyferre Dinner at Eola:
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

For upcoming ombiasy wine tours by Annette Schiller, see:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

In the Barrel Cave: Vintage 2012

We stared with the 2012 vintage. These wines are currently in barrels and not yet blended. That gave us the opportunity to taste different grape varieties at this very early stage of winemaking. In Boxwood’s barrel cave, barrels lie atop rocks that serve as humidity controls, and the room was constructed underground to help in maintaining a constant temperature of 55 to 65 degrees.

Pictures: Tasting in the Barrel Cave

The Merlot was soft and smooth with notes of cassis and cherries and some hints of vanilla. The Cabernet Franc was clean with characteristic pepper notes. The Petit Verdot was inky with concentrated plum flavors. The Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited lovely flavors of black cherries and also a bit of plum.

In the Tank Room: Vintage 2011

From the barrel cave, Rachel led us to the tank room, where the 2011 vintage, already blended, was resting.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tank Room

In 2011, September rainfall and little sunshine raised concerns of botrytis and sour rot; therefore, Boxwood opted for selective harvesting. Clusters that contained over 50% rot were not collected, and salvageable clusters were sorted berry by berry. The result? Lower yields but clean fruit.

2011 Topiary

Topiary is the St. Emilion-style blend with Cabernet Franc as the primary grape.

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry and garden herbs on the nose, on the palate silky with firm tannins, good finish with strawberry and spice flavors. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

2011 Boxwood

Boxwood is the Medoc-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon as the primary grape.

Deep purple in the glass, notes of blackberry, dark plum, cigar box, with some anise on the nose, silky smooth with round tannins on the palate, intense finish of dark fruits. This blend was already aged in French oak barrels for twelve months, and upon bottling it should continue to develop quite nicely.

In the Tasting Room: Vintage 2010

We then went to the tasting area, to try the 2010 Boxwood and Topiary, which are already bottled.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

2010 Topiary

61% Cabernet Franc 39% Merlot

Garnet in the glass, notes of strawberry, pepper, tobacco on the nose, lush dark fruit on the palate and with a subtle pepper flavor.

Boxwood 2010

56% Cabernet Sauvignon 43% Merlot 7% Petit Verdot

Full bodied with well-structured ripe tannins, blackberry dominates the palate with a long and smooth finish.

In the Library: Vintage 2007

We also tried the 2007 vintage, which according to Rachel was the first true vintage for Boxwood. 2006 was the first, but she does not count these wines.

2007 Topiary

Plum and red berry on the nose, broad mouth feel, nice blue fruits and cassis with a little leather on the palate, finishes with ripe tannins.

2007 Boxwood

Notes of blackberry, cassis, and dried cherry, coupled with a pinch of saddle leather on the nose, a lovely concentrated wine, with low acids, big fruit, and low-to-medium tannins.

Pictures: Tasting in the Tasting Room

Boxwood Winery

The Boxwood Winery is located in Middleburg in the midst of picturesque Loudoun County in Virginia in the US. It is owned by John Kent Cooke, a former owner and president of the NFL Washington Redskins. Boxwood aims high: to make premium red wines with Bordeaux grape varieties and a distinct Virginia expression. Boxwood produces 5,000 cases per year.

John Kent Cook bought the estate in 2001 and commissioned renowned architect Hugh Jacobsen - with the advice of Dr. Richard Vine, Professor of Enology at Purdue University - to design a modern winery that agrees with its surroundings. The result – completed in 2005 - is a stunning four-part complex, filled with high-quality, high-tech streamlined inner workings.

The center is a reception room with a circular stainless steel tasting bar.

This space overlooks the circular cave that is totally underground and fitted with a dome ceiling. The cave fits 255 (currently housing 75) French oak barrels arranged in concentric circles.

The third structure, on the same level of the other three, is the chai with 12 stainless steel fermentation tanks.

The fourth structure houses the bottling plant and case storage.

The 170-acre property once served as a horse farm, owned in the early 1900s by General Billy Mitchell (otherwise known as the father of the Air Force) who lived there until his death.

Pictures:Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferréin St. Julien. For more see: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Vineyards

Sixteen acres of grapes are planted on the property. The vineyard is monitored by a GPS custom designed system to record viticultural practices. Currently, 8 varieties of grapes grown: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Malbec, and Carmenere.

Wine Making Approach

The Estate grown grapes are hand harvested, brought to the winery and sorted. After being destemmed on the press pad, the whole, uncrushed grapes go through a temperature-controlled, whole-berry fermentation in the stainless steel tanks. “When berries are not crushed, wine ferments little by little, which adds to the complexity” explained wine maker Adam McTaggert over lunch. Then “punch-downs, pumpovers, and delestage are performed.” Once fermentation is complete, the wine is pumped through stainless steel pipes into 100 percent French oak barrels nestled in the hillside cave room. Malolactic fermentation takes place in the barrels. After aging for up to a year, the wine is pumped to the bottling room, where Italian machinery fills, corks, and labels the bottles on the premises.

Rachel Martin

Rachel Martin, Executive Vice President of the winery and the owners’ daughter, oversees the vineyard, winery, and national and international sales. No stranger to the wine business, Rachel studied Viticulture and Enology at Napa Valley College and Sensory Evaluation at the University of Bordeaux (School of Enology).

Pictures: Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville- Poyferre in Bordeaux, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin at Boxwood Winery in Virginia, USA

Rachel is Boxwood’s world ambassador and her relaxed and inviting presence immediately put guests as ease. “We want Virginia wine to be on the international playing field,” she enthuses, but notes, “You’ve got to start at home. You have to increase your quality for your local consumer.”

Stephane Derenoncourt

John Kent Cooke brought famed French flying winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt to consult with Boxwood. Stéphane Derenoncourt is entirely self-taught. He and his wife now work with a populous portfolio of estates in Bordeaux and elsewhere, including Domaine de Chevalier, Canon-la-Gaffelière, Smith Haut Lafitte, Prieuré-Lichine and Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. In June 2008, Derenoncourt and Vignerons Consultants were hired by Francis Ford Coppola to work on the Napa Valley property Rubicon Estate Winery.

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

Vineyard Walk, Wine Tasting in the Vineyard and Lunch in the Tarara Tank Cellar with Wine Maker Jordan Harris, Tarara Winery, USA 

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Rutger de Vink and his RdV Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Visiting Jim Law and his Linden Vineyards with Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux, USA

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

A Sparkling Wine for the Summer: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling – A German Sekt from Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany

$
0
0
Picture: Ernst Loosen with a Glass of Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Dr. L Sparkling is 100% pure Riesling - the crisp, fruity grape that has made German wine famous for centuries. It is made using the Charmat method, which produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable wayRecently, Ernst Loosen was in town (Washington DC) and I had several opportunities to meet up with him. I bought several cases of his wines, including a J. Christopher Pinot Noir, a wine he makes in collaboration with Somers in Oregon, and his Dr. L Riesling Sparkling, a wonderful German Sekt for the summer at a very attractive price.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with a Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

For the upcoming ombiasy wine tour to Germany, which will include a visit of Weingut Dr. Loosen and a tasting with Ernst Loosen, see: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Weinrallye #64: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer

This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Sparkling Summer Wine”. Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany.

Picture: Weinrallye #64

This month's wine rally is organized by Thorsten Jordan with a little help from his friends). The theme is: A Sparkling Wine for the Summer. I have chosen to write about the Dr. L Riesling Sparkling from Weingut Dr. Loosen.

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Ernst Loosen

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

See:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA 
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

Ernst Loosen makes both a still and a sparkling Dr. L.

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine produced for a global market. It is made by Ernst and Thomas Loosen (Loosen Bros.). Ernst explained: “Dr. L comes exclusively from traditional vineyards with steep slopes and slate soil. This introductory, non-estate wine embodies the elegant and racy style of classic Mosel Riesling. By working closely with growers on long-term contract, we are able to assure excellent quality in every vintage.”

Dr. L Riesling Sparkling is the sparkling sibling of the (still) Dr. L. It is like the Dr. L 100% pure Riesling. It is made using the Charmat method, where the second fermentation is done in a pressurized tank to keep the bubbles in the wine. This method produces bright, clean sparkling wines in a more affordable way, which makes it possible to offer this charming bubbler at a very nice everyday price.

Picture: Dr. L Riesling Sparkling

As is usual with Riesling — especially from a cool climate like Germany’s — a juicy touch of sweetness was left in the wine to balance the naturally brisk acidity. What you end up with is a refreshing, fruit-driven sparkler that’s a pleasure to drink any time. It’s a great choice for summer parties on the lawn, a Wednesday evening at home, or any time you need a little sparkle in your life.

Alcohol: 12.0% Residual sweetness: 27.8 grams/liter Total acidity: 6.4 grams/liter pH: 3.06

Sekt – German Sparkling Wine

Not well known outside of Germany, sparkling wine has a long, rich tradition in Germany, where it has been called “Sekt” since the late 1800s. Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

There is a dozen or so large Sekt houses. They produce more than 2.000.000 bottles each annually. Most of these large Sekt houses were established in the 1800s. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the champagne houses, the large Sekt houses have all moved to the charmat method as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the champagne houses, Sekt houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from winemakers.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

The smaller Sekt houses, like the large Sekt houses, do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from winemakers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Finally, increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but).

See also:
German Wine Basics: Sekt
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France
German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany’s 2011 VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru - Wines Released. Notes from the Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein 

Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC

German Wine Basics: Sekt

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France

German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

Italian Natural Wines

$
0
0
Picture: Vendredi du Vin #57 - Vini Naturali d'Italia

Italian Wine

Italy is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 liters per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.

Picture: The Wine Regions of Italy

Vendredi du Vin #57: Italian Natural Wines

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Patrick Böttcher, a manager of a pharmacy in Brussels, Belgium. The subject is: Italina Natural Wine: “Petit rappel, les italiens définissent leurs vins comme naturels s'ils sont issus de sols respectueux de la nature, et s'ils sont fait en respect avec l'artisanat historique tout en intervenant un minimum afin de conserver les marques de leur fruit et de leur terroir. S'ils ont effectivement souvent très peu de soufre embarqué, il n'y apas de règle absolue, juste du bon sens.”

My contribution is a bit broader than Italian natural wines. After a short primer of different concepts of “green” winemaking, including natural I profile “Agricola Querciabella” is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers

Here is Patrick Patrick Böttcher’s List of Italian Natural Wine Producers: “Bon comme on est sympa et qu'on sait que vous allez caler, voici une liste de gentils vignerons dont nous vous conseillons absolument les quilles : Luca Roagna, Belotti, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Augusto Cappellano, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Trinchero, Sylvio Morando, Villa Terlina, Elisabetta Foradori, Musella, Corte Sant'Alda, Tenuta Grillo, Lo Zerbone, La Stoppa, Denavolo, Tenuta di valgiano, Podere le Boncie, Pacina, Colombaia, Fonterenza, Stella di Campalto, Montevertine, Pian dell'Orino, Paradiso di Manfredi, Fattoria di Caspri, Massa Vecchia, Podere Sanguineto, Le Coste, Emilio Pepe, Cantina Giardino, Ca del Noce, Lamoresca, COS, Occhipinti, Frank Cornelissen, Paolo Bea, et tous les inspirés de la Slovénie voisine, Gravner, Princic, Radikon, Vodopivec... et j'en oublie, forcément !!!!!”

Natural and Other Green Concepts of Winemaking

What are natural wines? Generally, the idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. Natural wines are part of a group of wines that I would call “green wines”, wines made with an ecological concept in mind. There are several different concepts of “green wines”.

Organic: Organic generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals.

Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.

Unfortunately, there is no agreement on what organic wine making as opposed to organic wine growing means. The main issue is the use of sulfur in the fermentation process. In the US, organic winemakers are not allowed to add sulfites during winemaking; an organic wine is a wine with basically zero sulfur. In Europe, sulfites are allowed to be added during fermentation and an organic wine typically contains a modest amount of sulfur.

Biodynamic: Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner. In his 1924 lectures, he viewed the farm as an entire living ecosystem starting with the soil which is treated as a living organism and receives special applications to enhance its health.

Sustainable: Sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Sustainable farmers may farm largely organically or biodynamically but have flexibility to choose what works best for their individual property; they may also focus on energy and water conservation, use of renewable resources and other issues.

Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for nature. For example, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization. Natural wines are minimalist wines produced with as little intervention as possible.

Vegan: Vegan refers to the process of "finning" the wine. Proteins, spent yeasts and small organic matter in wines are sometimes eliminated from wines with fining agents made from animal products. Fish bladders, egg whites, milk proteins and even bull’s blood (not allowed in the US or France) are all used as fining agents. As an alternative, Bentonite, a specific type of clay, is used for clarification in vegan wines. It’s important to note that vegan or vegetarian wines may or may not be made from organic grapes.

Fair trade: Fair trade wines first came onto the market the US in 2007, following trends in coffee, tea and produce. Fair trade refers to the conditions and wages paid to employees of the winery; it guarantees employees a fair and "livable" wage for their product. Fair Trade certification of wine has been around since 2003 in Europe. The certification means that wineries met certain standards for living wages, environmental sustainability and community improvement. Oakland's TransFair USA just announced that it has begun certifying Fair Trade wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa for the American market.

Carbon footprint: The carbon neutral label comes from a different angle: global warming. All economic activites have a carbon footprint, including wine making. Carbon neutral wineries are trying to make a contribution to the general efforts of reducing the emission of carbon dioxide. A major aspect of carbon neutrality however is outside the control of wineries. It is the transport of the wine from the winery to the consumer. For example, the carbon dioxide emission of a Bordeaux send to New York City by ship is lower than that of a California wine transported on the road.

Water footprint: A new thing is water footprint, reflecting the concern that the planet is moving into a period where water becomes more and more scarce.

For more, see:
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Agricola Querciabella

From the Chianti Classico DOCG region in Tuscany, Agricola Querciabella has become known among wine lovers for taking the concept of premium wines to the extreme. Agricola Querciabella is a leading winemaker in the Super Tuscan movement, i.e. ultra-premium wines sold as IGT wine as the wines are made outside of the DOCG regulations. Second, Agricola Querciabella has become a leading winemaker in the cruelty-free biodynamic movement, i.e. the 100% vegan approach to biodynamic winemaking.

Agricola Querciabella was founded in 1974 by Giuseppe Castiglioni, a wine connoisseur and fine wine collector from Milan, who had made a fortune in the construction business, including in Mexico. Giuseppe Castiglioni initially planted vines as a hobby, but soon set about authoring with his Camartina—the flagship wine of Querciabella - a Super-Tuscan success story.

Money was not an issue when Giuseppe Castiglioni bought a run down estate in the Greve region. His main concern was to make wines that could match with the fine French wines from Bordeaux and Bourgogne that he liked to drink so much. The shift to vegan biodynamic winemaking was engineered by his son, Sebastiano Castiglioni, who took over the management of the estate in the 1990s. Under Sebastiano Castiglioni leadership, the trend of perfection is still the utmost priority.

Only the best of everything is used, like stainless steel tanks with computer control, peristaltic pumps, 100% natural yeast and only the finest of the fine oak barrels. Quality is something that the Castiglionis do not compromise upon. Also, over time, they established an elite winemaking cadre, including winemaker Guido de Santi and famed consultant and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Giorgio Fragiacomo from Agricola Querciabella at a Tasting at

Agricola Querciabella Portfolio

Agricola Querciabella produces four wines from its vineyards located in the Chianti Classico zone:

Pictures: Giorgio Fragiacomo and his Querciabella Wines

Batàr, a blend of Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay; Camartina, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese; Palafreno, a monovarietal Merlot; and Querciabella, a Chianti Classico DOCG made of 100% Sangiovese. From the vineyards in coastal Maremma, Querciabella produces Mongrana, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s first contribution to the Super-Tuscan movement. Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan genre. While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring Cabernet.

Batàr is Querciabella’s high-level Tuscan white, inspired by the white grand cru wines of the Bourgogne. Initially, Batàr was a Pinot Blanc and Pinot Grigio blend. Today, it is a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend. Its stylistic orientation altered with the 1998 vintage, when the use of new oak was reduced, bringing Batàr within much closer range of its Burgundian archetype.

The portfolio’s penultimate wine, Palafreno, is monovarietal Merlot, debuting with the 2000 vintage. Its vinification regimen entails a fairly lengthy maceration period of 18 days and aging in 100 percent French oak (60% new and 40% first passage) for approximately 18 months.

For more, see:
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

Natural Wine Bars: Terroir in San Francisco, Terroirs in London and La Cremerie in Paris

The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

FairChoice Certified Wine in Germany: Weingut Joachim Flick in the Rheingau

Judging at the ECOVIN Ecowinner 2012 Contest in Oppenheim, Germany

Blogging for Organic Wine – New Ways of Wine Experience: The Organic Wines of Oekoweingut Hubertushof at Prowein 2012 in Germany 

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey and Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green" Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine

Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco

Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines

Headwind (Gegenwind)– A Protest Wine against the Unbridled Exploitation of Culture and Nature

Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

$
0
0
Picture: Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and Daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent and Christian G.E. Schiller

Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent, was in town (Washington DC) and guided us through a tasting of her families smashing 2010 Burgundies during a winemaker dinner at the newly opened at Range in the Washington DC area.

Domaine A-F Gros

The Gros family has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1830′s. The Domaine A-F Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A-F Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.

Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros

Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Today, after the purchase of more vineyards, the husband and wife domaines work alongside each other and present a treasure of appellations from both the Cote du Nuits and Cote du Beaune. Their vineyards are mainly in Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune and Pommard villages and the Hautes Côtes. Francois is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.

Pictures: Sommelier Kathy Morgan, Al McCosh, Owner of Nice Legs, the Distributer, and Christian Schiller

Former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier. 

For other dinners organised by Al McCosh, see:
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.

Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.

Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid 30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).

Pictures: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours, Caroline Parent-Gros and Christian G.E. Schiller

For upcoming Ombiasy Wine Tours, see:
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider. "When you are a Pinot Angel, you ride freely in elegance and tradition. Not just anyone can handle this" says
Caroline Parent-Gros.

Pictures: Caroline Parent-Gros

Range by Chef Bryan Voltaggio

Tom Sietsema from the Washington Post: “Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from “Top Chef” alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley.

Pictures: Range

Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range, the first foray into Washington by Voltaggio, whose three establishments in Frederick -- Volt, Lunchbox and Family Meal -- draw food enthusiasts from across the region. Part of the fuss stems from the chef’s celebrity and part of the attention is explained by the reality: Despite all the money and the stomachs in the area, Friendship Heights is poor when it comes to choice places to dine.

The big surprise after four dinners: The hype is justified. Range, backed by chef de cuisine Matt Hill from Charlie Palmer Steak, is a terrific restaurant much of the time. ...

The menu, no surprise, is long and varied. The left side of the script focuses on raw seafood, charcuterie, cheese, salads and pasta; the right column is devoted to pizza, grilled meats and fish, pan-roasted items and vegetable dishes. …

Pictures: Range

The prime seats are those to the left of the bar, a curved stretch with floor-to-ceiling windows that look into the atrium on one side and with a view of the cooking stations -- “a chef’s playground,” Voltaggio calls them -- on the other. The expanse in the back feels more like an overflow room. Range’s cream-colored seats and muted palette let the food shine; a retail shop with Voltaggio-approved kitchen equipment feels as if Williams-Sonoma crashed the party.

Take advantage of the sterling credentials of the sommeliers. Keith Goldston and more recently Kathy Morgan clearly enjoy sharing the stories behind their liquid wares, which call to both the haves and the have-not-as-muches with a broad range of wines and prices. France is particularly well represented."

Vintage 2010

We tasted vintage 2010 wines. Caroline Parent: “2010 could be compared to 2002 with its structure and tannins. Small volume (-30 to 50%). 2010 will be a complex wine representative of big Burgundy wines to be aged. It is a collection vintage.

Picture: Getting Ready

What we Ate and Drank

Pictures: The Dinner Table

Grilled king salmon, pork belly, corn, porcini, summer truffle


2010 Domaine A-F Gros Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (US$42.99)

From a parcel located on a very well exposed small hill with the forest behind, which protects it from strong winds. The vines are planted so they follow the slope and contours of the small hill. This layout permits vines to be planted on steep slopes without the risk of erosion of the soil. Generous and robust, full-bodied and round, it combines engaging berry aromas with real strength. This is a lovely wine and a good step up from most regular Bourgogne.

Jancis Robinson: Meat juice, bit of blood, whip-smart acid. Great fruit, but not quite so complex as the basic Bourgogne rouge. 16 Points


Yukon gold potato gnocchi, braised pork, guanciale, young garlic


2010 Domaine A-F Gros Savigny-le-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Clos des Guettes (US$72.99)

A-F Gros is an excellent source for this wine on the upper slope facing south. Superb freshness on the nose and palate. Displays great minerality and acidity. Lovely vibrant palate with fine tannins and excellent length. This appellation has received Burghound’s Sweet Spot award for the last five vintages.

Jancis Robinson: Minty, herbal notes and a really attractive grip on the finish. Nutmeg spice, redcurrant – all sorts going on in here. Ably shows Pinot's breadth. 17 Points


Bobo farm squab, foie gras spinach emulsion


2010 Domaine A-F Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes (US$79.99)

Boucherottes is located near the Pommard border but surprisingly produces a fruity style of wine without hard tannins. The earth here is supple, very fine and quite red in color. The yield from the old vines here is very small. The regularity of this cru is quite remarkable. Red-blue pinot fruit of serious style and body. A very smart wine from Beaune, a commune that is starting to produce some very exciting wines at reasonable prices. Like all good reds from Beaune this merits some time in the cellar.

Jancis Robinson: Wonderful red fruit clarity with that Burgundy savouriness and the perfect dose of oak. Debonair, classy and poised. 17.5 Points


Roseda farms beef, stuffed morels, chicory


2010 Domaine A-F Gros Chambolle-Musigny (US$79.99)

From vineyards totaling 39 acres, divided into several parcels with different localities: Frémières, Le Pas de Chat, Derrière le Four, Les Athets. The parcels are fermented together. Lovely depth of colour. An aromatic nose leads to a rich, softer, rounder palate typical of the appellation (when compared to Pommard or Beaune). Still retains the minerality that makes 2010 so special. A really lovely example of what Chambolle should produce.

Jancis Robinson: Juicy red fruit, quite primary and juvenile. Enjoyable. 16.5+ Points


Pleasant ridge reserve, beets, lemon, thyme


2010 Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole (US$85.99)

From a parcel of 35 ares. One of the strengths of the A-F Gros range are the three Vosne-Romanee Lieu-dits. Clos de la Fontaine is a beautifully balanced wine with all the spice you would expect from Vosne-omanee. Not a big wine but one that expresses the style and class of Vosne-Romanee with its bright, mineral infused flavours of berry and earth.

Jancis Robinson: Syrupy red cherry fruit, gentle tannins, bit of forest floor, supple and light with charming daintiness. 17 Points


schiller-wine: Related Postings 

The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California

Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California 

Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US

The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon

Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA

Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013

Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013

BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 – Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany

$
0
0
Pictures: Martin Zwick and Christian G.E. Schiller in Wiesbaden and Brandenburger Tor, Berlin

The BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013 took place in May 1013 in Berlin, Germany, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 30 wines were included in the tasting. They were blind-tasted by a group of sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers. Winemaker Andi Schneider from the Nahe Valley attended as special guest.

“Gutsriesling” is a combination of Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Riesling: Rated were wines that fulfilled the two criteria – being a Gutswein and a Riesling (from Germany).

This was the second BerlinGutsrieslingCup. See here for last year’s results:
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Gutswein

What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

For more background information, see:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups

Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. While the BerlinGutsrieslingCup reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings of VDP Estates, the BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s their dry grand cru (Grosses Gewaechs) Rieslings. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewaechs wines of the previous year.

This year, Martin Zwick also organized for the first time (in June) a BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. I will post about it on schiller-wine.

See more:
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

2013 Gutsriesling Ranking

1. A.J. Adam
2. Keller "Edition Pinard de Picard"
3. Bürklin-Wolf
4. Keller
5. Geltz-Zilliken
6. Scultetus-Brüssel
7. Julian Haart
8. Wittmann
9. Knewitz
10. Fritz Haag
11. Schäfer-Fröhlich
12. Karl Schaefer feinherb
13. Dönnhoff
14. Andi Schneider
15. Emrich-Schönleber
16. Bassermann-Jordan
17. Battenfeld-Spanier

Picture: H.O. Spanier and Christian G.E. Schiller in Bodenheim

See more:
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

18. Krebs
19. Seehof
20. Fürst
21. Christmann
22. Thörle

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim.

For more on Winzerhof Thoerle see: Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

23. Kühling-Gillot
24. Van Volxem
25. ***
26. Rebholz
27. Karl Schaefer trocken
28. Breuer Sauvage
29. Schloss Johannisberg
30. von Winning

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012

Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany 

The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

My wife Annette Schiller and I had seen the Rolling Stones in the Festhalle in Frankfurt am Main, Germany in the early 1970’s, when we were not yet married, not to talk about children and grandchildren. Now, 40 years or so later, with 4 children and 2 ½ grandchildren (the ½ due any day), we went back to the Stones to see them in the Verizon Center in Washington DC. We started the evening with a light dinner and Riesling at Proof, arguably the best wine bar in town, including a 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, and concluded the evening at Bistro Francais in Georgetown, one of the few places in DC where you can have a decent dinner at midnight.

Proof

Proof is in the Penn Quarter, i.e. in walking distance to the Verizon Center where the Rolling Stones played. I am always debating with myself, if Proof is a wine bar or a wine-centered restaurant. In any case, if you are looking for a more substantial fare along with a premium wine, check out Proof - known for its numerous small plates but also for its eclectic selection of creative modern cuisine. Its wine list is outstanding, containing over 40 by-the-glass selections and 1,000 different bottles, reaching up into the highest price and quality levels. Proof’s wine list is one of the best, if not the best in town. Proof also offers a bring-your-own wine option for a corkage fee of $35.

Pictures: Proof in Washington DC

Sommelier Joe Quinn

Joe Quinn is the Sommelier. Joe was a part of the opening waitstaff at Proof; in the summer of 2010 he became a sommelier at Proof and at sister restaurant Estadio.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, Christian Schiller and Proof Sommelier Joe Quinn

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Summer of Riesling at Proof

I had made an early reservation (5:30 pm). Proof participates in the “Summer of Riesling 2013” (Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States) and had 3 Rieslings by the glass on the list: (1) Merkelbach, Uerziger Wuerzgarten, Spaetlese, (2) Doennhoff Riesling and Efeste Evergreen Vineyard Riesling. We chose the Doennhoff and the Efeste, both very nice, crisp, refreshing wines, with the Washington State Riesling being the driest wine.

We then had some light food – salumi and a salmon tartar - with our 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, Meddersheimer Paradiesgarten, Winzergenossenschaft Meddersheim.

Pictures: Light Dinner at Proof

Meddersheim is in the Nahe Valley. There are 5 wine producers, including the large co-operative, where I bought a case of this wine many years ago. The Paradiesgarten is a “Grosslage” combining different single vineyards. Don’t confuse it with “Grosse Lage” – the absolute top single vineyards in the VDP classification.

Picture: 1976 Riesling Spaetlese Trocken, Meddersheimer Paradiesgarten, Winzergenossenschaft Meddersheim.

The 1976 Riesling presented itself as a senior citizen that is still going very strong. Dark golden in the glass, intense notes of honeysuckle and vanilla on the nose, still good acidity, did stay too long in the mouth, but was very pleasant wine. And the history and memories!

Picture: C&A

Andrew Myers

Leaving Proof, we bumped into CityZen Sommelier Andy Myers. I had seen him a few weeks ago at the occasion of a tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen. Andrew Myers is one of the great Rock ‘n’ Roll cum Wine Experts in town. Let me quote from an earlier posting: Andrew Myers' sommelier career began at The Inn at Little Washington in 1997. He later returned to Washington to manage the wait staff and the wine department of Restaurant Nora. Five years later, he joined the team at CityZen. At 40 plus now, Andrew Myers remains obsessed with metal. He plays the drums in a Heavy Metal Group and is covered in tattoos that would make most head bangers proud. But that obsession is rivaled by his passion for wine.

Picture: Andrew Meyers, Joe Quinn and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

The Rolling Stones Live

The Rolling Stones

The Rolling Stones were formed in London in 1962. I got my first LP – Around and Around (released in 1964) – in 1965. The first line-up had Brian Jones (who died in 1969) on guitar and harmonica, Mick Jagger on lead vocals and harmonica, Keith Richards on guitar and backing vocals, Bill Wyman (who left in 1993) on bass and Charlie Watts on drums. Ronnie Wood (who had been with the Birds, the Jeff Beck Group and the Faces before) joined in 1975, replacing Mick Taylor (who had followed Jones).

Pictures: The Rolling Stones

50 & Counting Tour started in November 2012, preceded by two club gigs in Paris. The Washington DC show was the final show in the US. We paid US$ 941.72 for 2 tickets, including service and delivery fee.

Picture: Ticket

Washington DC Concert

It was a very memorable concert. Sold out. Most of the people, including Annette, were standing and dancing through out the 2 hours plus concert.

Picture: Before the Show

Brian Ives (Radio.com): “So, was it the last time the Rolling Stones will perform in the U.S.?

Watching the band at the last U.S. stop on their 50 & Counting Tour Monday night (June 24) at the Verizon Center in Washington, D.C., there was no indication that they may pack it in. In fact, depending on your perspective (and your age) their two-hour show either defied or defined what is possible for a band whose members are all AARP age. Which is to say, they are still the best rock and roll band in the world on a good night. And Monday was certainly that: a very good night.
They opened with their 1965 hit “Get Off Of My Cloud”; the audience (of very mixed ages, by the way) responded by getting off of their seats, barely sitting down for the rest of the night. After that, there was a false start — proving that for all their slick professionalism, the Stones aren’t too over-rehearsed — and then “It’s Only Rock And Roll (But I Like It).”

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

After that came “Paint It Black.” Charlie Watts, subdued as ever, pounded the drums — but it was all in the wrists. He remains one of the coolest but least attention-hungry drummers in rock and roll. “Gimme Shelter” followed, featuring the group’s powerful backing singer, Lisa Fischer (featured in the documentary Twenty Feet From Stardom, about support vocalists) sharing the spotlight with Mick Jagger. Earlier in the tour, Mary J. Blige and Lady Gaga took the iconic Merry Clayton vocal part in the song, but Fischer proved that she owns that song as much as anyone. She’s a reminder that you don’t have to be famous — or want to be — to be great. (The same goes for the band’s other backing singer, Bernard Fowler.) Meanwhile, the formidable guitar team of Keith Richards and Ron Wood demonstrated how they “weave” around each other, their distinct styles complementing the other’s: Richards’ stabbing at his instrument blending with Wood’s more fluid style.

After “Shelter,” Jagger welcomed the audience, noting that the band first came to Washington, D.C. in 1965, mentioning that back then, First Lady Ladybird Johnson used to come to see the band. “I don’t think President Obama is here tonight,” he said. “But I’m sure he’s listening in!”

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

Jagger then got behind an electric piano for a relatively rare track, “Worried About You” from 1981′s Tattoo You. His falsetto might not be quite what it was three decades ago, but the song nonetheless was one of the highlights of a night that had many.

Each night on this tour the band takes an online poll to decide the “fan’s choice” song, and tonight’s winner was “Street Fighting Man.” (For those keeping score, it beat out “Rocks Off,” “Just My Imagination,” “You Got Me Rocking” and “Live With Me.”) That was followed by one of the band’s funkiest numbers, “Emotional Rescue,” and again, Mick’s falsetto did the job.

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

The one-two punch of their new songs — “Doom And Gloom” and “One More Shot” — from last year’s compilation GRRR! were next. For the record, the new songs didn’t lead to a bathroom/beer line exodus, which is often the case at concerts by veteran acts (and has been the case with the Stones in the past). Both songs showed that they still have some new contributions to make to their unbelievable songbook.

“Honky Tonk Woman” followed, and then Jagger introduced the band before leaving the stage, giving the mic up to Richards, who joked, as he always does, “It’s good to be here — it’s good to be anywhere!” (Actually, given the chemicals that he’s ingested over the decades, he’s probably not joking.) After an emotional “You Got The Silver,” Richards rocked through “Before They Make Me Run,” a song that features one of his loveliest lyrics: “See my taillights fading/There’s not a dry eye in the house.”

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

Most shows on this tour have featured big-name celebrity guests — Carrie Underwood, John Mayer, Gwen Stefani, Katy Perry, Taylor Swift. They’ve been fun, but they also seem a bit forced. The one guest fans seem to appreciate the most is the one who could probably walk down the street without being recognized: former guitarist Mick Taylor. As he has done for most of the tour, he joined the band for “Midnight Rambler,” an epic guitar throwdown that also saw Jagger blasting through his harmonica going toe to toe with his former bandmate. It’s enough to make Stones fans wonder why he ever quit the band in the first place.

On “Miss You,” longtime touring bassist Daryl Jones plunked a deep groove on the song, bringing it a bit further into disco territory. A sweet moment during the song came when Jagger seemed like he was looking for something and Richards grabbed his shoulder and handed him his harmonica, mid-song.

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

A few of their biggest hits followed: “Start Me Up,” “Tumbling Dice,” and “Brown Sugar,” the last of which featured longtime sax player Bobby Keys replicating his original part on the song. As a drum loop from “Sympathy For The Devil” played, the band returned to the stage for the encore. Longtime touring pianist Chuck Leavell took the lead, giving the song a more gospel sound, before Jagger brought it back to sinister territory by hitting the stage armed with a feathered boa cloak and those six famous words: “Please allow me to introduce myself.”

They were joined by the Washington Chorus for “You Can’t Always Get What You Want,” giving it the presentation it has always deserved (they select a different local choir at every stop on the tour for that song). And then, arguably their two most iconic hits: “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” and “(I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction,” joined once again by Mick Taylor.

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC

Could it actually have been the proverbial last time? With Mick and Keith turning 70 later this year (Charlie is already there), it seems like a possibility.

After the show, fans gathered at the arena’s garage exit, watching the band’s black SUV convoy leave the building. As their taillights, in fact, faded down the street, most were no doubt hoping that that wouldn’t be band’s last goodbye. But if it was, they went out on top.”

Pictures: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC - the End

Here is the full set list:

Get Off of my Cloud - It's Only Rock'n'Roll - Paint it Black - Gimme Shelter - Worried About You - Street Fighting Man (request winner) - Emotional Rescue - Doom and Gloom - One More Shot - Honky Tonk Woman - You got the Silver - Before they Make me Run - Midnight Rambler - Miss You - Start Me Up - Tumbling Dice - Brown Sugar - Sympathy for the Devil - Encore: You Can't Always Get What You Want - Jumping Jack Flash - Satisfaction

In Washington DC after the Show 

We got back to Proof at 11:15 pm or so. The restaurant had closed already, but there were some people at the bar. Proof, like most other restaurants are closing at 11:00 pm or even earlier. Your best bet in situations like this are: Café Milano in Georgetown, Old Ebitt Grill next to the White House or Bistro Francais in Georgetown (in order of my preference).

You can eat at Café Milano until around 2:00 pm; it varies a bit throughout the week; Old Ebitt Grill is open until 2:00 and serves Happy Hour Oysters after 11:00 pm (Old Ebitt Grill reminds me a lot of La Coupole in Paris, which is open until 4:00 pm); Bistro Francaise is open every night until 3:00 pm.

We opted for Bistro Francais.

Night Comment on Facebook

Annette Schiller: Just got home after the really great Stones concert: what a beautiful evening: a full moon, perfect weather, great wines and food at Proof and the fantastic rhythm of Mick Jagger, Ron Woods, Keith Richards and Charlie Watts. Sometimes it has its advantages to get older.

Picture: Rolling Stones Show 2013 in Washington DC - the End

schiller-wine: Related Postings  

Summer of Riesling 2013 and 31 Days of German Riesling 2013 in the United States

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

The Karthäuserhof in the Mosel Valley: An Eventful History – From Grenoble in France to New York City in the US

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

$
0
0
Pictures: The 2013 Riesling Road Trip in Washington DC, USA, with the Wine Bar on Wheels

Between June 19 and June 27, 2013, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott went with a specially-designed "wine bar on wheels" on a Riesling Road Trip from the US West Coast to the US East Coast – from Los Angeles to New York City. For most of the trip, Stuart Pigott was accompanied by Paul Grieco from Hearth Restaurant and Terroir Wine Bars in NYC, except for the initial days (to Phoenix/Arizona), when Chris Miller, the Beverage Director at Spago in Beverly Hills, was with Stuart.

Kicking off at Spago in Los Angeles, the Riesling and Co mobile bar made stops in various culinary hot spots. At each location, Stuart and Paul hosted an intimate German wine tasting and seminar on the mobile bar. Attendees include prominent members of the wine trade, from sommeliers and beverage directors to retailers and wine media. The tour culminated in New York City for Wines of Germany’s annual Riesling and Co in Chelsea, with top winemakers in attendance to showcase the 2012 vintage.

Pictures: Stuart Pigott and Paul Grieco having a Beer before the Tasting

Stuart Pigott in his announcement: “The Riesling Road Trip is a coast to coast journey to promote German Riesling organized by Wines of Germany in New York Wine City commissioned by the German Wine Institute back in Mainz/Germany. Venice Beach is our official starting point and Manhattan the official finishing line around lunchtime June 27th. Yes, that is fast and I’ll be a little amazed if we make it on time, not least because one of our vehicles is a 20ft shipping container remodeled as a mobile tasting room.”

See more:
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)

Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC

The Riesling Road Trip hit Washington DC in the late evening of June 26. From 10:30 to 11:15pm, Paul and Stuart led a tasting of 5 German Rieslings in their small mobile wine bar in front of Oyamel in the Penn Quarter. Annette Schiller and I joined a small group of mostly sommeliers for the amazing tasting inside the mobile tasting truck.

Pictures: The Wine Bar on Wheels pulling up at Oyamel

Tasting 5 Rieslings

In tasting 5 wines, Paul and Stuart emphasized German Riesling’s enormous diversity from feather light to granite density and from bone dry to honey sweet. Stuart Pigott: “That’s something Chardonnay simply cannot match wherever it comes from.”

Pictures: The Wines

2011 Kuehling-Gillot, Riesling, Trocken, Rheinhessen

See more: 
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

2012 Pfeffingen, Riesling, Trocken, Pfalz

2011 Kruger-Rumpf, Muensterer Pittersberg, Riesling Trocken, Nahe

See more:
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany 

2003 Dr. Loosen, Bernkasteler Lay, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

See more:
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

2006 S. A. Pruem, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Auslese, Mosel

Dry and Fruity-sweet Rieslings

We tasted 3 dry and 2 fruity-sweet Rieslings. The latter two were prime examples for Germany’s low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel that are so popular around the world. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Dr. Loosen, JJ Pruem, Egon Mueller, to name a few, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market. “But while in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewaechs wines are very high in demand. Here in the US, it is the other way around” says Ernst Loosen.

See more:
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Pictures: The Tasting

Riesling in the World and in Germany

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Pictures: The Tasting

German Wine Classification Systems

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Indeed, for dry wines the pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has been completely eliminated in the VDP classification system.

Following Bourgogne, the classification system of the VDP comprises 4 quality layers:

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

See more:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Pictures: The Tasting

13 German Wine Regions

There are 13 German wine regions.

Five large regions - Rheinhessen 26000 hectares, Pfalz 23000 hectares, Baden 16000 hectares, Wuerttemberg 12000 hectares, Mosel 10000 hectares.

Three medium-size regions - Franken 6000 hectares, Nahe 4000 hectares, Rheingau 3000 hectares.

Five small regions - Saale Unstrut 700 hectares, Sachsen 500 hectares, Hessische Bergstrasse 500 hectares, Mittelrhein 500 hectares, Ahr 300 hectares.

Pictures: Paul Grieco at the Tasting

The German Wine Industry

Germany has 48.009 winemakers (Winzer) and a vineyard area of 102.000 hectares. Large wineries are rare to find, except for the wine co-operatives. In this concept, “winemaker” does not stand for making or even bottling wine, but stands for growing vines and producing grapes. In some areas of Germany, like Baden and Wuerttemberg, 80% of the so called winemakers deliver their grapes to a wine cooperative.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy, Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott

See also:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Almost 90% of the winemakers operate with less than 5 hectares of vineyard area. There are only about 6.000 wineries with more than 5 hectares of land. Excluding wine-cooperatives, there are only 10 wineries in Germany with more than 100 hectares of land.

Compared with an estimated vineyard area of 7.000.000 hectares in the world, Germany accounts for only a bit more than 1% of world production. The big 3 are Spain, France and Italy with a combined vineyard area of 3.000.000 hectares.

See more:
The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

1.International Riesling Symposium

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

A Firework of Flavors at Komi, the Best Restaurant in Town (Washington DC, USA)

$
0
0
Picture: Chef Johnny Monis and his Team (Source: Komi Website)

Komi is arguably the best restaurant in town (Washington DC, USA). Komi serves a set multi-course dinner for $135 per person, beginning with a series of mezzethakia – small, light dishes – and progressing to heartier flavors, including pasta and a family-style entrée, followed by desserts.

Komi is open Tuesday-Saturday. Reservations are difficult to get. You must call at noon, exactly one month before your chosen date. My friend Gunther, who in the meantime has returned to Germany, had managed to get a 5:30 pm reservation for himself and asked me if I was up for joining him. I did and spent a memorable evening with Gunther, while my wife Annette was visiting our daughter Katharina in Nepal.

Little Serow - Chef Johnny Monis' recently opened tiny northern Thai place - is next door and Johnny also spends time there during the evening. Little Serow is on the Washingtonian's list of 100 Best Restaurants 2013 - also no menu, prix fixe ($45) and no reservations; you queue up for a slot at 5:30pm and they call or text you when a table becomes free.

To do a posting on Komi is not easy: photos are not allowed, no written menu (but they send you one after the dinner) - the courses are announced only as they are delivered.


Bistronomics Cuisine

In a way, I would classify Komi as a bistronomics restaurant. Bistronomics food is generally referred to as high-end cuisine served at reasonable prices in a nice bistro-style outlet. A smart mix of economy, variety and seasonality. In Paris, bistronomics include Frenchie, Saturne, Le Chateaubriand, Rino, Yam’Tcha, La Bigarrade and Passage 53.  Le Chateaubriand is on the famous San Pellegrino Top 50  Restaurants in the World list. In Frankfurt, Germany, André Rickert at Weinsinn is showcasing bistronomic food.

See:
The 2010 World's Best 50 Restaurants
Lunch and Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Other bistronomics restaurants in Washington DC include Eola (which charges US$75 for five courses plus a series of small bites), Obeliske (which charges $72 for an Italian set multi-course dinner, just opposite of Eola) and Rouge 24 (which has a range of offers, from $75 to $135 for a 24 course menu).

See:
Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA 
Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

The Setting

Komi is a small place with only a handful of tables (mostly fours), with a half-open kitchen in the back. The interior is simple, warm, understated. With only the front window providing any real glimpse of sunlight, lighting is provided by candles on the walls and small lights hiding around the ceiling. Instead of Liszt, you hear Bright Eyes and Wilco. Flowers are absent from the table. Diners may be dressed as if for casual Friday at the office.

Picture: The Restaurant (Source: foodlushblog.com)

The service at Komi is impeccable. Each course comes out to you in seamless timing; your table is constantly cleaned and re-set with new utensils, plates, and glasses.

The Food

Chef Johnny Monis invokes the Greek food and flavors he grew up with as a child both in the area, and by visiting his family in the Greek islands. Each course is a bit of a surprise. Each course delivers new flavor profiles that are equally enticing. Many of the courses are only a bite or two. Chef Johnny Monis is a master of one-bite works of art.

The Wines

Do not expect an extensive wine list with expensive, world class wines. The focus is more on niche wines, unusual wines in the entry and medium price level. The wine list at Proof, also in Washington DC, for example, is just the opposite: Pages and pages of world class wines from Bourgogne, Bordeaux, Napa Valley and elsewhere. I love to study the wine menu and choose my wine when I go to a top restaurant. Not possible at Komi.


Gunther and I opted for the accompanying flight for $70. The wine pairings menu was generous and consisted of interesting wines, but not of premium or even ultra premium wines, which I would prefer for the extraordinary food.

See:
Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

The Menu

Here is what we ate.


Trout Roe: The first course was an amuse bouche of steamed brioche, crème fraiche, and salmon roe.  Perfectly light but with some nice flavor. It did the job of an amuse-bouche: announced how the meal was going to go - interesting flavor combinations painted with a Mediterranean palette.

Picture: Trout Roe (Source: Yelp - Pui ying S.)

Spanakopita: The spanakopita was another one-bite wonder.  Due to its liquid center, the waiter recommended to eat it in one bite. It was lightly fried with spinach and feta cheese. There is a burst of flavor that elicits surprise and delight.

Sea Bream

Suzuki

Scallop: A two ways dish with scallops; the first was shaved scallop topped with rhubarb and served on an oyster shell, the second preparation was diced scallop formed together with coconut milk cream.

Asparagus

Quail Egg

Sourdough

Foie Gras

Dates: The marscapone stuffed dates topped with sea salt are a Komi classic. They come out piping hot. The salt adds a nice texture to the soft consistency of the date, and it also cuts the sweetness of the flavors.

Picture: Date (Source: Komi Twitter Account)

Salt Cod

Ravioli: The pasta course. It was an excellent intermediary dish - hearty yet a perfectly small portion to keep you hungry for the heavier dish to come. The noodles were thick and eggy, and the sauce was delicious with a touch of spice.

Katsikaki: The main course was a roasted goat, served with hot pita and lovely Mediterranean accoutrements: tzatziki, red onion mostarda, red peppers, and a sea salt. The goat had a crispy layer on top, but was also moist and fell off the bone quite easily.

Picture: Katsikaki (Source: Yelp - Michael U)

Sorbet

Loukoumades

Chocolates

Lollipop: The feast's finale is another Johnny Monis’ signature - house-made lollipops.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Tête-à-tête Dinner with Henri Lurton, Owner of Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855 in Margaux, at CityZen in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 World's Best 50 Restaurants

Dinner with Wine Maker Gerhard Wohlmuth sen., his Wines and the Food of Steierland’s Chef Ruth Stelzer, Austria

Schiller's World of Seafood

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA 

Foie Gras Around the World

Dinner in McLean, Virginia - What We Ate and Drank

Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

Sea, Sand, Soul and Sakafo, and Whales and Wine – At Princesse Bora Lodge on Ile Sainte Marie in the Indian Ocean

Dinner at Plum in Oakland, California - Sister Restaurant of Coi, #58 on the 2012 San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants List

Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

The 2010 World's Best Restaurants

In the glass: Hugel et Fils wines at the cuisine des emotions de Jean Luc Brendel at Riquewihr in Alsace

A Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Oysters - and Wine - at Zuni Café in San Francisco, USA

Lunch and Beaujolais at Weinsinn in Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

$
0
0
Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller eating Soft Shell Crabs

Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack.

Bluecrab.info: “My definition of a crab house is any restaurant that serves hot steamed Maryland-style hard shell crabs. You know that you're in a crab house as soon as you walk through the door, the smell of steamed crabs is in the air and you hear the sound of wooden mallets banging against crab and table as hungry diners crack into the succulent claws. As you look around you see paper-covered tables with trays of cooked bright orange crabs, mounds of discarded shells, pitchers of ice cold beer, shakers of Old Bay seafood seasoning, and bottles of apple cider vinegar. And, yes, there's the occasional basket of piping hot shell-on spiced shrimp! Ah, the memories... there's nothing quite like the atmosphere of a genuine Chesapeake Bay crab house.

Crab Shacks in the Washington Area

Here are my favorites in or close to the Washington DC area:

Washington DC City Area

The Dancing Crab - 4611 Wisconsin Ave, NW, Washington, DC (202) 244-1882. The family owned restaurant is a classic.

Bethesda Crab House - 4958 Bethesda Ave, Bethesda, Maryland (301) 652-3382. There's a large outdoor patio available weather permitting.

Ernie's Original Crab House - 1743 King Street Alexandria, Virginia. (703) 836-0046. Located in the heart of Old Town Alexandria. Offers traditional Chesapeake Bay seafood dishes including steamed crabs.

The Quarterdeck - 1200 Fort Myer Drive, Arlington, VA 22209, (703) 528-2722, Open Daily 11:30a.m. - 2a.m. A fixture of the Fort Meyer Heights neighborhood for over 30 years providing a relaxed atmosphere perfect for family dining.

Maine Avenue Seafood Market: You can pick up live crabs to steam at home or buy some already steamed at the Washington DC seafood market on Maine Avenue at the Potomac River. It is a fascinating place. 1100 Maine Ave.

Outside Washington DC City Area

Jimmy Cantler's: Be prepared for long waits on the weekends, but the tranquil riverside setting in Annapolis is worth it. About 45 minutes from Washington DC. 458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis.

Tim’s Rivershore Restaurant and Crabhouse: a favorite place for Harley riders and RocknRoll lovers on the western shores of the Potomac, about 1 hour south of Washington DC. 1510 Cherryhill Road, Dumfries

Captain Billy’s Crab House - 11495 Popes Creek Rd, Newburg, MD ‎ About 1 ½ hours from Washington DC on the Potomoc eastern shore.

Visiter: “And if you are looking for a Maryland crab experience, this is your place. Everyone is dressed down. There is nothing fancy. Less than 5 minutes after you order, your food is hot and ret' ta' go. You get a plastic bucket, a laminated menu and the best dang crabs MD has to offer. You are presented with only male crabs (unless you ask for a mix) Tip: Female Crabmeat is sweeter. Your drinks will be refilled, your crabs will be plentiful.”

Happy Harbor - 533 Deale Road, Deale, MD 20751, (410) 867-0949. A little dive located on the water, bar on one side, restaurant on the other. About 1 hour drive from Washington DC, on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay.

Stoney’s– 3 locations in Calvert County, Maryland: Broomes Island, Kingfisher’s and Solomons Pier. About 1 ½ hours from Washington DC on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay. Famous for its crab cakes.

Stoney’s: “We have since grown to a family of three restaurants and continue to serve the best that the Washington D.C. area has to offer. Our menus do not stop with crab cakes but also offer a variety of steaks, seafoods, appetizers, and salads. Each location offers stunning views of the Chesapeake Bay and whether you are looking for an upscale dinner or a casual happy hour, you will find that Stoney’s is the place to go.

Beyond Bay Bridge

These are all places where you have to cross the Chesapeake Bay. The Bay Bridge is about 1 hour drive from Washington DC.

Harris Crab House & Seafood Restaurant - 433 N Kent Narrows Way Grasonville, MD 21638 (410) 827-9500. Well worth the drive in Grasonville, overlooking the Kent Narrows

Fisherman's Crab Deck - 3032 Kent Narrow Way S Grasonville, MD 21638 (410) 827-6666. Also in Grasonville.

Waterman’s Crab House - Rock Hall. 10 nautical miles north of the Bay Bridge but 11/2 hours by car in weekend traffic.

Visitor: “Waterman's has been around for a long time, recently having expanded (again) to an indoor, rather plain restaurant seating perhaps a 100 or so and two enormous outdoor wooden decks with a sit down 20 seat bar and bandstand across from it, flanked on either side by the decks which are directly over the water.”

Visitor: “This afternoon, eighty degrees and sunny with only a few puffy clouds in the sky, both decks were mobbed with several hundred middle aged, full bellied, Rolex wristed crab eaters often accompanied with partners with big hair and a lot of gold. The six member band crooned Wilson Pickett, James Brown and a bit of Lloyd Price while mallets and pitchers were hammered and quaffed repeatedly. Almost every brown paper topped picnic table had a plastic garbage can at the side of it. It seemed everyone was eating crabs. This is as close to Heaven as I have ever felt in the state of Maryland.”

Visitor: “We liked Waterman's-a LOT! I would take this over Cantler's or Stoney's in a heartbeat! The setting is just truly fantastic. While not great crab cakes and a bit more expensive than other places on the Eastern Shore, this is a real find. I would suggest that Chesapeake Living magazine may be right: this may be my favorite crab house in Maryland. I would go elsewhere for crab cakes (Narrows) and perhaps for dinner (Suicide Bridge, Jerry's in Lanham). But for hard shells and to sit out on an incredibly scenic deck with a bit of Smokey Robinson in the background while hammering over the water, this IS what the Good Life is all about!”

Crab Claw in St. Michael's

Pictures: Crab Claw in St. Michaels

Schooners on the Creek in Oxford

Suicide Bridge - 6304 Suicide Bridge Rd Hurlock, MD 21643‎ (410) 943-4689 11:00 am – 10:00 pm. Waterfront dining overlooking Cabin Creek. In the Easton/Cambridge area.

Maryland Blue Crabs

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

Picture: Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Soft Shell Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay is famous for its soft-shell blue crabs. As crabs grow larger, their shells cannot expand, so they molt the exteriors and have a soft covering for a matter of days when they are vulnerable and considered usable. Crabs caught just after molting are prepared as soft shell crabs: first cutting out the gills, face, and guts; the crab is then battered in flour, egg, and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy. The entire crab is consumed, legs and all.


Picture: Soft Shell Crab

Crab Cake

Crab cakes is another delicacy. Crab Cakes are basically Hamburgers made out of crab meat. We ate it recently as a starter with tomatoes and avocado on the side.

Picture: Maryland Crab Cake

See more:
Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crab Soup

Usually I start my crab dinner with a Maryland Crab Soup. This is a kind of an Italian Minestrone with crab meat.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

Maryland Wine

Blue crabs are iconic in Maryland. Few food and wine aficiniados, however, would point to premium wines, when talking about Maryland; instead, Maryland has the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are very successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world. As Drew Baker of the brand-new Old Westminster Winery explained to Frank Morgan, a popular wine blogger, “Maryland has great potential and I believe that the quality bar is rising quickly. Soon, poorly made wines will be the exception in an otherwise great region.” Old Westminster Winery, led by the three siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli, who manage the vineyard, winemaking, and marketing, respectively, has not yet released any wine, but is already generating a buzz. Other promising newcomers include Black Ankle, Slack, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Port of Leonardtown. Add to that the Maryland classics Boordy, Basignani and Elk Run, which are in the process of changing gears.

Maryland’s modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of Maryland’s 60 plus wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains: (1) A majority of the state’ vineyards are planted in Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland. (2) The Chesapeake Bay has always been among my favorite regions, but the Eastern Shore is also a fantastic growing region. The soil is sandy and well-drained, and the climate is moderated/protected by the water, perfect for warm days and cool nights. (3) In the Southern Plain in southern Maryland it can get rather hot. And stay hot during the night. Barbera, Sangiovese, and Chardonnay dominate. (4) Western Maryland is mountainous, and while there are only two wineries, there is a number of vineyards.

I have written extensively about a number of Maryland wineries, see:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA 
Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA
Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA
Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

Schiller’s Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series. Here is a full list of all Schiller’s favorites postings so far.

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary

Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California 

Boordy Winery in Maryland - A Profile, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Robert B. Deford, President, at Boordy Winery in Maryland

Blue crabs are iconic in Maryland. Few food and wine aficiniados, however, would point to premium wines, when talking about Maryland; instead, Maryland has the reputation of being a mediocre wine producer. But Maryland winemakers are very successfully changing that. Increasingly, winemakers in Maryland are moving away from fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete with the best wines in the world. As Drew Baker of the brand-new Old Westminster Winery explained to Frank Morgan, a popular wine blogger, “Maryland has great potential and I believe that the quality bar is rising quickly. Soon, poorly made wines will be the exception in an otherwise great region.”

Pictures: Robert B. Deford, President, at Boordy Winery in Maryland and his Son Phin Deford

Old Westminster Winery, led by the three siblings Drew, Lisa, and Ashli, who manage the vineyard, winemaking, and marketing, respectively, has not yet released any wine, but is already generating a buzz. Other promising newcomers include Black Ankle, Slack, Sugar Loaf Mountain and Port of Leonardtown. Add to that the Maryland classics Boordy, Basignani and Elk Run, which are in the process of changing gears.

See also:
At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA
Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA
Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA 

This is a posting in a series of 3 profiles of Maryland wineries:
Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in Maryland - A Profile, USA
Boordy Vineyards in Maryland - A Profile, USA
Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland - A Profile, USA

Boordy Vineyards

Boordy Vineyards is the oldest commercial winery in Maryland. Boordy was founded in 1945 by Philip and Jocelyn Wagner. The Wagner’s enthusiasm for experimentation and the winery’s rapid growth eventually lead to a partnership with the Deford family who purchased  Boordy in 1980. The Defords moved the winery to its present day location at their Long Green Valley farm, just north of Baltimore. The farm has since been placed in permanent preservation with the Maryland Environmental Trust, demonstrating owner Rob’s commitment to agriculture.

Pictures: Boordy Vineyards, Maryland

The winery is currently housed in the ground-floor level of a 19th century barn. Next to the barn a new similarly sized building is going up.  The new building will become the home of the winery.  As it is purpose-built, future wines will see more gravity and less pumps along with being raised with more accurate temperature control.  The original barn will become a barrel cellar.

Boordy Wine Portfolio

Boordy produces three tiers of wines: Just for Fun, Icons of Maryland and the Landmark series.  The Landmark series is the very best of each vintage year; the Icons of Maryland are designed with food in mind; and the Just for Fun series offers sweet, party wines.

At a recent visit at Boordy with Aaron Nix-Gomez from Hogshead (Aaron took and published notes, see below) and other wine writers, we only tasted Landmark wines. These wines are produced from 100% Maryland fruit of which 95% is estate fruit.  The Landmark Project was begun in 2006. It follows the guidance of viticulturist Lucie Morton which initiated a complete replanting of the vineyards.  The vineyards were replanted with closer spacing, 1 meter by 8 feet, averaging 1500 vines per acre for all 45 acres.

The Wines I Tasted

Picture: Landmark Wines

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark, Cabernet Franc Reserve – $25

Aged for 18 months in French oak.

Hogshead: There were concentrated aromas of black fruit and violets.  The wine had a weighty mouth feel, power, and an inky finish.  Nice. 

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark Reserve – $35

Blend of 69% Merlot, 19% Syrah, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot which were fermented separately. Aged for 24 months in French oak.

Hogshead:The nose was light with racy blue and black fruit.  There was good fruit in the mouth along with concentrated drying tannins.  There were racy, weighty flavors in the finish.  The drying tannins mixed with vintage perfume in the finish.  The aftertaste brought some spicy, citric tannins.  This could benefit from a few years of age.

Pictures: Boordy Wine Cellars

2010 Boordy Vineyards, Landmark, Merlot Reserve

Hogshead: This had a nose of low-lying perfumed berries.  There was more structure to this wine with expansive almost grainy, blue and black fruit.  It had focused and a powerful structure at the end.  This needs age.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

At the Fifth Annual Drink Local Wine Conference in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off - Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Maryland, USA

Touring Wine Country Maryland, USA

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Maryland Crabs and Wine

Schiller's World of Seafood

Chef Spike Gjerde's Farm-to-Table Food of Woodberry Kitchen and Sarah O’Herron's and Ed Boyce's Premium Organic Wines of Black Ankle Vineyards, Maryland, USA

Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA 

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

$
0
0
Pictures: Christian G.E. Schillr with Paul Grieco at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City and the Night before with Stuart Pigott  at the Riesling Road Trip Stop in Washington DC

Stuart Pigott’s and Paul Grieco’s Riesling Road Trip from June 19 to 27, 2013, began in LA and culminated in NYC with the Annual Riesling and Co tasting on June 27. The 2013 Riesling and Co tasting took place in the trendy Chelsea district. It was a trade show - no consumers.There were 33 tables. At a number of tables, the winemaker himself or herself, or the owner were present and poured the wines. At other tables, the wines were poured by the importer, representing the Weingut. In addition, the "wine bar on wheels" of the Riesling Road Trip had been parked in the tasting hall and you could enjoy there matured wines with Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott.

Pictures: 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting at Cedarlake in New York City

This posting, following some background information and German wine and Riesling in particular, profiles my favorite winemakers and importers/distributors at the 2013 Riesling and Co tasting.

See for the 2010 Riesling and Co tasting in New York City:
Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

See for the 2013 Riesling Road Trip:
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two methods applied in Germany – but neither in Austria nor Alsace - for making these sweet-style Rieslings. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it; as a result, you get a deliciously sweet and low alcohol wine. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve (sterilized juice) to achieve the desired degree of sweetness. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

See more:
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Pictures: The 2013 Riesling Road Trip in Washington DC, USA, with the Wine Bar on Wheels

Riesling in the World and in Germany

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

German Wine Classification Systems

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Indeed, for dry wines the pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has been completely eliminated in the VDP classification system.

Following Bourgogne, the classification system of the VDP comprises 4 quality layers:

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

See more:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

13 German Wine Regions

There are 13 German wine regions.

Five large regions - Rheinhessen 26000 hectares, Pfalz 23000 hectares, Baden 16000 hectares, Wuerttemberg 12000 hectares, Mosel 10000 hectares.

Three medium-size regions - Franken 6000 hectares, Nahe 4000 hectares, Rheingau 3000 hectares.

Five small regions - Saale Unstrut 700 hectares, Sachsen 500 hectares, Hessische Bergstrasse 500 hectares, Mittelrhein 500 hectares, Ahr 300 hectares.

Pictures: The 2013 Riesling Road Trip Bar in Wheels at Cedarlake in New York City

The German Wine Industry

Germany has 48.009 winemakers (Winzer) and a vineyard area of 102.000 hectares. Large wineries are rare to find, except for the wine co-operatives. In this concept, “winemaker” does not stand for making or even bottling wine, but stands for growing vines and producing grapes. In some areas of Germany, like Baden and Wuerttemberg, 80% of the so called winemakers deliver their grapes to a wine cooperative.

Almost 90% of the winemakers operate with less than 5 hectares of vineyard area. There are only about 6.000 wineries with more than 5 hectares of land. Excluding wine-cooperatives, there are only 10 wineries in Germany with more than 100 hectares of land.

Compared with an estimated vineyard area of 7.000.000 hectares in the world, Germany accounts for only a bit more than 1% of world production. The big 3 are Spain, France and Italy with a combined vineyard area of 3.000.000 hectares.

See more:
The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

Pictures: At the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City

Schiller’s Favorites

Schloss Reinhartshausen - Rheingau

A famous Riesling producer in the Rheingau with a long history. Schloss Reinhartshausen has recently been sold to a mass-wine producer in the Pfalz and its VDP membership has been terminated. We will have to wait and see how things develop there.

See also:
Rhine Wine – The Weingut Schloss Rheinhartshausen Wines of the Mariannenaue Island in the Rhine River, Germany

Weingut Dr. Heger – Baden (21 ha)

Owner and winemaker Joachim Heger is the Gault Millau WeinGuide 2013 Winemaker of the Year. Joachim Heger also won the Eichelmann Best Red Wine Collection Award in 2013. Gerhard Eichelmann: “Year after year, Joachim Heger makes fascinating Pinot Noir wines, both from the Ihringer Winklerberg and the Achkarrer Schlossberg. In the last few years, they had even more finesse and have become even more complex, more Burgundian.”

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim and Silvia Heger at Kloster Eberbach in Germany

See more:
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Rudi Wiest – Importer, California

Rudi Wiest is among the leading importers of German wine into the US, with a focus on VDP producers and increasingly on dry wines.

Weingut Kruger Rumpf – Nahe (25 ha)

“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” says winemaker Georg Rumpf. Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.

The wines were presented by Stefan Rumpf.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy and Stefan Rumpf in New York City

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

See:
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Winesellers/Vinnicombe - Importer

Valerie Lynch-Giroux from Winesellers presented the wines of the portfolio of Derek Vinnicombe, including Weingut G.A. Schneider, Weingut Fitz-Ritter, Weingut Dr. Fischer and Weingut Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Mueller-Burggraf).

See:
3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider– and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA
Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch 
Visit: Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany - for Upcoming German Wine Society Tasting in Washington DC, USA 

Maximin Gruenhaus - Schlosskellerei C. von Schubert – Mosel (30 ha)

The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the tiny Ruwer river, about two kilometers upstream from where it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert.

The wines were presented by Joachim von Schubert, son of Carl von Schubert. Dr. Loosen Bros. is importing the mostly fruity sweet and noble sweet Maximin Gruenhaus wines from the Ruwer Valley.

Picture: Joachim von Schubert at the Tasting

Weingut Dr. Loosen – Mosel (20)

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy in Washington DC

See also:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

On Weingut Dr. Loosen, see:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Weingut Robert Weil – Rheingau (80 ha)

Founded in 1875, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich is the Rheingau’s #1 estate and one of Germany’s best. Today, Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. 80 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking. Dr. Loosen Bros. is importing the Weil wines.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in Kiedrich

See also:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Weingut Selbach-Oster – Mosel (21 ha)

Weingut Selbach-Oster can trace wine-growing in the family back to the year 1661. The Selbach-Oster vineyards are located on some of the best vineyard land in the heart of the Mosel wine country called "Mittelmosel": Zeltingen (with Sonnenuhr, Schlossberg and Himmelreich), Wehlen (with Sonnenuhr), Graacher (with Domprobst and Himmelreich) and Bernkastel (with Badstube). In their cellars, they still use the traditional "Fuder" barrel made from old German oak to prevent woody flavors from masking the purity of fruit and soil flavor. A "Fuder" holds 1000 liters. They balance between stainless steel and a few fiberglass tanks with a maximum size of 3000 liters per unit, ensuring low temperatures during fermentation and with it, the preservation of freshness and delicacy of aroma.

Johannes Seelbach presented the mostly fruity-sweet Riesling wines.

Pictures: Johannes Seelbach and Paul Grieco at the Tasting

Weingut St. Urbanshof – Mosel (33 ha)

Weingut St. Urbans Hof was first established in 1947 by Nicolaus Weis who was awarded the prestigious title “Oekonomierat” (Chancellor of Agriculture) in 1969 and title became part of the winery name, St. Urbans Hof Oekonomierat Nic. Weis Weingut. Today, Nikolaus (Nik) Peter Weis is the third generation owner and manager of the estate which totals nearly 33 hectares making it the second largest family owned wine estate in the Mosel Saar Ruwer wine growing region.

Valckenberg - Importer

P.J. Valckenberg is: (1) an importer of German wines into the US, (2) an importer of old and new world wines into Germany, (3) a producer of sparkling and still wine in Germany, (4) a distributer of imported and own wines in Germany, and (5) an exporter of German wine to many countries.

The focus of Valckenberg’s US wine portfolio is on winemakers with a long tradition. It does not include any of the new generation of innovative, young winemakers, for example from Rheinhessen, but relies on well respected, top-level winemakers with a long tradition, sometimes going back several centuries.

See:
Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines

Weingut Weegmueller – Pfalz (15 ha)

Wine Blogger Heike Larson: “The womanly art of making wine. Or: Girls Rule! Certainly at this winery. Stefanie Weegmüller-Scherr, very down-to-earth and all big smiles, is the gifted winemaker of the estate. For 25 years now, she has been among the first women to set foot in the male-dominated winemaking industry. Her sister Gabriele is completing her by taking care of all marketing matters. She is the hospitality manager and I can witness, she does this well!"

Gabriele Weegmueller presented the exclusively dry wines, jointly with importer Greg Moore from the Moore Brothers.

Picture: Gabriele Weegmueller and Christian G.E. Schiller at the Tasting

Weingut von Winning – Pfalz (50 ha)

Deidesheim's heydays came at the beginning of the 19th century when estate owner Andreas Jordan was the first to produce high quality wines according to strict selection rules, and the first to introduce the Spätlese in Palatinate. When Andreas Jordan died in 1848, his enormous estate was split into three, a procedure which has become famous under the name "the Jordan Division." By it, the estates of Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and Dr. Deinhard were formed, all of which became famous on their own. In 1848, the winery bore the owner's name, Dr. Deinhard. When the owner died, the winery was taken over by his daughter and her husband, Captain Leopold von Winning, with the resulting change in name. The early 20th century was a golden age for von Winning, which also became one of the founders of VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates. Later, with the owners changing once more, the winery became known as Dr. Deinhard again. Since 2007, the winery belongs to the group of Achim Niederberger and since 2009 carries again the name von Winning.

Weingut Gunderloch – Rheinhessen (23 ha)

It all started in 1890, when the banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the Gunderloch manor house in Nackenheim. Today, the Estate is still in the hands of the Gunderloch family.

When Carl Gunderlocho died in 1935, the estate passed first to Gunderloch's granddaughter Elizabeth Usinger and her husband. They remained at the helm until 1965, when their son Carl Otto took on the management of the estate. Today it is his eldest daughter, Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger and her husband, Fritz Hasselbach that are in charge. Fritz Hasselbach is a highly accredited winemaker and responsible for the wine. But there are already the next 2 Gunderloch generations waiting.

Fritz Hasselbach presented the 6 Weingut Gunderloch wines; 3 of them dry and 3 fruity-sweet.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller and Fritz Hasselbach at the Tasting

See:
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Weingut Georg Breuer – Rheingau (33 ha)

Weingut Georg Breuer was founded in 1880 by Peter Breuer, partner of the German wine shipping firm Scholl & Hillebrand. Today, the estate is managed by Heinrich Breuer und Theresa Breuer, the daughter of the late Bernhard Breuer. Riesling dominates with some 26 hectares of vines; the other varieties are Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Co-author of authoritative books on Germany's wine regions and credited to a great degree with restoring Riesling's respectability in world markets, the late Bernhard Breuer was highly regarded internationally and worked tirelessly in defense of German viticultural integrity.

Teresa Breuer presented the mostly dry wines.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Theresa Breuer and Christian G.E. Schiller at the Tasting in New York City

Weingut Eva Fricke – Rheingau (4.5 ha)

Eva Fricke is the Falstaff 2013 Newcomer of the Year. From 2004 to 2011, Eva Fricke was the Operations Manager at Weingut Josef Leitz. Eva Fricke, was born and grew up in Bremen in Northern Germany, produced her first own wine in 2006, from particularly steep slopes in Lorch. Since 2008 Eva Fricke lives and works at the Koetherhof in Kiedrich, where her winery is located.

In presenting the Falstaff Award to Eva, fellow winemaker Roman Niewodniczanski pulled his imaginary hat to Eva Fricke's performance, establishing from scratch one of the most exciting wineries in the region. He is "utterly blown away" by her Rieslings.

Picture: Eva Fricke and Christian G.E. Schiller in Ruedesheim, Germany

See:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Domaene Schloss Johannisberg – Rheingau (35 ha)

The outstanding position which Schloss Johannisberg has captured, not only for the Rheingau but for German wine in general, is apparent through its majestic setting on a hill high above the Rhine close to Rüdesheim. A view which fascinated Goethe: “… Johannisberg thrones over all”. The wine harvest was documented for the first time in 817. The Mainz Benedictine monks began to build a monastery, which was later consecrated to John the Baptist, in 1096. The grand Schloss originated in 1716 and was later gifted to the Metternich Winneburg house by Austrian Emperor Franz I. Von Harbsburg. A royalty of the harvest is still to be paid to the Harbsburg family till today, till 1940 in wine since than in money.

Schloss Johannisberg is the oldest Riesling-Estate of the world. The Spätlese (late harvest) wines were invented here in 1775 when a courier came back late from the owner and nobel rot had infected and concentrated the Riesling grapes.



Picture: Schloss Johannisberg

Weingut Leitz - Rheingau (40 ha)

Weingut Josef Leitz dates back to 1744 and - like so many wineries in Germany - has passed from one generation to the next for virtually 4 centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, Weingut Josef Leitz had 3 hectares of vines and was virtually unknown among German wine connoisseurs. Early on, Johannes Leitz connected with Washington DC based importer Therry Theise, with a view of expanding production by pushing exports. Today, Johannes Leitz has successfully grown to 40 hectares of vineyard area and 90% of the production is sold in the export markets, notably the US.

The Gault Millau Weinguide Germany 2011 picked Johannes Leitz for Winemaker of the Year. “In the beginning not even people in Ruedesheim knew him. Now, his Riesling wines are regarded as examples of outstanding Rheingau Rieslings not only in his home town, but also in London and New” said the editor of the 2011 WeinGuide Gault Millau Deutschland, Joel Payne.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joseph Leitz at the Tasting in New York City

See also:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Domdechant Werner – Rheingau (13.5 ha)

As a founding member of the "Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim" (Winebrotherhood Hochheim), the Domdechant Werner'sches Weingut in Hochheim is close to my heart. The Domdechant Werner Estate cultivates 13.5 ha of vines, 98% of which are planted with Riesling and 2% Spätburgunder. It produces wines of all styles, ranging from dry to lusciously sweet wines. Some 60-70% of the wines are exported to about 25 countries around the world, making the estate a "global player" on a small scale.

In 1780, the father of Dr. Franz Werner, the renowned Domdechant (dean) of the Cathedral of Mainz, acquired from the Count York the Hochheim wine estate. Domdechant Werner is credited with having saved the Cathedral from being demolished during the French Revolution and was responsible for its reconstruction. The Estate is now owned by Dr. Franz Werner Michel, the seventh generation of the founding family. The eighth (and possibly ninth) generation is now on the scene, as Dr. Michel's daughter, Catharina Mauritz, mother of three sons, has also become involved in the Estate's management.

Picture: Weingut Domdechant Werner 

See also:
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

Rhine Wine – The Weingut Schloss Rheinhartshausen Wines of the Mariannenaue Island in the Rhine River, Germany

Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World 

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines

Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider– and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA

Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch

Visit: Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany - for Upcoming German Wine Society Tasting in Washington DC, USA

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

The Label of 2010 Château Mouton-Rothschild Designed by Jeff Koons from New York City, Bordeaux

$
0
0
Pictures: Jeff Koons' 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild Label

Each year, the esteemed French wine house chooses a master artist to create a label. This year's offering, the 2010 vintage, features Jeff Koons, who is based in New York City.

Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac

The Château Mouton-Rothschild vineyard totals 84 hectares. In terms of red grapes, 80% is Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. There is also Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, for the estate's white wine.

The wine is fermented in oak vats (they are one of the last châteaux in the Médoc to use them) and then aged in new oak casks.

Pictures: Château Mouton-Rothschild in Pauillac

Wine Searcher Average Prices (in US$):

2011:   523
2010: 1095
2009: 1128
2005:   877
2000: 1573

Baron Philippe de Rothschild

The birth of Château Mouton-Rothschild took place in 1853, when Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild - from the English line of the Rothschild family - purchased the estate - which was called Château Brane-Mouton - and renamed it using his name. The estate was in English hands in the 15th century but returned to French hands after the 100 Years War.

It was under Baron Philippe de Rothschild - who was only 20 years old, when he gained control of the property - that winemaking and wineselling at Château Mouton-Rothschild – and in general in Bordeaux – changed drastically.

Picture: Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Source: New York Times)

The Baron was the first Bordeaux winemaker to insist on bottling all his wine at the estate. This new practice created a need for more storage at the property. In 1926, the Baron constructed the famous Grand Chai, the majestic 100-meter first year cellar, which has become a major attraction for visitors to Mouton.

The now famous series of labels designed by artists started in 1945.

In the 1930s, long before the idea of second wines had become standard practice, the Baron created a second wine for Mouton, Cadet de Mouton. It quickly became Mouton Cadet, first a blended wine, then a branded wine (again the first of its kind in Bordeaux) and is today the largest selling French branded wine in the world.

Finally, in 1973, Mouton was elevated to premier grand cru en 1855. The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was largely based market prices. It was established by the negociants of Bordeaux. Despite the market prices for their wines equaling that of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild was excluded from premier grand cru status, possibly because the estate was not in French ownership.

The Portfolio

Like Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild is now a mix of privately-owned chateaux, international joint ventures and commercial branded wines:

Château Mouton-Rothschild (grand vin)

Petit Mouton (second wine): 6,000 cases

Château d’Armailhac: In 1933, the Baron purchased a neighboring vineyard, Château Mouton d’Armailhacq. The property was renamed Château d’Armailhac in 1989 by his wife, the Baroness Philippine. Part of the reason for the purchase was, the estate came with a Bordeaux negociant firm which eventually became known as Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A. 17,000 cases.

Château Clerc Milon: 13,000 cases

Mouton Cadet: Bordeaux’s oldest and largest branded wine, with 15 million bottles sold each year across 150 countries.

Opus One: In 1980, the Baron entered into a joint venture with Robert Mondavi to create Opus One Winery in Oakville, California, now co-owned with Constellation Brands.  25,000 cases.

Almaviva: In 1997, Château Mouton Rothschild teamed up with Concha y Toro of Chile to produce a quality Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine in a new winery built in Chile's Maipo Valley. 10,000 cases.

Owner: Baronness Philippine - Married to French theater director and actor, Jacques Sereys in 1961 – now divorced. Three children, Camille, born in 1961, Philippe, born in 1963, and Julien, born in 1971. Her personal wealth is estimated at €190 million by Le Nouvel Economiste.

Picture: Baronness Philippine de Rothschild and Jeff Koons

Château Mouton-Rothschild in Pauillac and Mayor Amschel Rothschild in Frankfurt am Main

The roots of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild  – and the Rothschild empire in general – are in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Towards the end of the 18th century Mayer Amschel Rothschild, a money changer from Frankfurt am Main, born in 1744, had five sons and decided to install them in the five major European centers of the time.

* Amschel Mayer Rothschild (1773–1855): Frankfurt - died childless, passed to sons of Salomon and Calmann
* Salomon Mayer Rothschild (1774–1855): Vienna
* Nathan Mayer Rothschild (1777–1836): London
* Calmann Mayer Rothschild (1788–1855): Naples
* Jakob (James) Mayer Rothschild (1792–1868): Paris

Picture: The House of the Rothschilds in Frankfurt am Main

The Rothschild brothers became one of the major forces in the far reaching changes that swept through Europe, while their father had not been allowed to purchase land outside of the Frankfurt am Main ghetto. During the 19th century, they were the bankers to monarchs and governments, bankers to Napoleon’s Europe and then in the industrial area the builders of the modern economy through their investment in railways.Baron Philippe, who died in 1988, belongs to the London branch of the large Rothschild family.

See:
(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire

Labels Designed by Artists

The custom of having an artist design each year the label of the Mouton Rothschild wine goes back to the year 1924, when Chateau Mouton Rothschild was ready to release its first vintage bottled at the Chateau itself.

Until then, wineries sent their wine in casks to wine merchants in the city of Bordeaux, who then undertook the responsibility of stocking the casks for the two-year aging process, before bottling the wines. Although labels had been in use since the middle of the 19th century, they served merely to provide basic information about the wine contained in the bottle--or what, at any rate, was supposed to be in the bottle.

Rothschild commissioned for the occasion the popular poster designer Jean Carlu to design a label. Carlu's cubist-inspired label shocked the wine community--Philippe Rothschild was to scrap the label design only two years later--but nonetheless succeeded in calling worldwide attention to the new era of Rothschild wines. In the years leading up to the World War II, the Rothschild chateau continued to experiment with its wine labels.

France's capitulation to the Nazi invaders and the installation of the collaborative Vichy government nearly spelled disaster to the Rothschild wine business. The chateau itself was occupied by the Nazis and made a German headquarters, while the Vichy government placed operations of the vineyard under its agricultural department's control. Philippe Rothschild and his family were captured--Rothschild's wife was killed in a Nazi death camp--but Philippe Rothschild managed to escape, finally joining up to fight with the Free French army under General Charles de Gaulle.

Returning to his chateau after the war, Philippe Rothschild decided to allow his first post-war vintage to celebrate the Allied victory. Rothschild asked friend Philippe Julian to design a new label for the 1945 vintage. Based on Churchill's famed V-sign, the label sparked a new era for Mouton Rothschild.

Philippe Rothschild, who had already been among the pioneers in recognizing the marketing potential of a wine's label, now decided that the label for each year's vintage was to feature an original piece of artwork--commissioned from Rothschild's circle of friends, only some of whom were artists. Yet all received the same payment: five cases from that year's vintage, plus five cases chosen from the Rothschild cellars.

In 1955, the Rothschild label took on a still more serious role. That year's label featured a design from famed painted Georges Braque. From then on, the Rothschild labels were to become a showcase for the world's top contemporary artists, featuring, among others, drawing and paintings from Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Henry Moore, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, and later artists such as Keith Haring, Balthus, and others.

Jeff Koon’s Label for the 2010 Vintage

Jeff Koons has combined the classical 'House of the Venus Marina III', a fresco from ancient Roman Pompeii, with a silver line drawing depicting a sailing boat and a sun.

Dubbed the Willy Wonka of art, New York-based Koons has spent the past 30 years dividing opinion with his avant-garde scupltures.

Pictures: Jeff Koons and his Art

His 'tulips' - a large steel and chromium bouquet of multi-coloured tulips - which was sold for US$33,682,500 at Christie's New York in November 2012, made him the world's most expensive living artist.

In 1991, he married the Hungarian porn star and Italian politician La Cicciolina, a union which was dissolved shortly afterwards. His Made in Heaven series was a set of enormous canvasses, exhibited at Tate Modern, graphically depicting the couple consummating their marriage.

Robert Parker on 2010 Mouton Rothschild

"Only 49% of the production made it into the 2010 Mouton Rothschild, which has a strikingly beautiful label by Jeffrey Koons. This is a truly great wine, with a very high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) and the other 6% Merlot. At 13.9% natural alcohol, Mouton's director, Philippe Dhalluin, has clearly produced another 50- to 60-year wine that has a chance at perfection in about 15 years time, when I suspect this wine will be rounding into drinking condition. It is dense, rich and full-bodied, with the classic Mouton creme de cassis, forest floor, licorice and floral notes, but also some blueberry and hints of subtle espresso and mulberry. The wine has more minerality and precision than the rich, extravagantly opulent 2009, and while that may please some, others will have their patience tested as they wait and wait for this compelling Mouton Rothschild to hit full maturity." Score: 98+ Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (205), March 2013

"The 2010 Mouton possesses the highest level of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) of any wine this estate has produced. Combined with 6% Merlot, the wine achieved 13.9% natural alcohol. Under director Philippe Dalhuin, the harvest was accomplished between September 28 and October 13, and only 49% of the crop made it into this powerful effort. Reminiscent of the 1986, it is a 50-60 year wine that is not meant for consumers looking for near-term gratification. This backward, tannic, full-bodied, exceptionally promising 2010 reveals enormous weight along with extravagant levels of precise, fresh boysenberry and creme de cassis fruit. The abundant minerality is due no doubt to the fresh acidity. In need of at least 15 years of cellaring, it will undoubtedly remain an infant at age 25 (as does the 1986)." Score: 97-100 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (194), May 2011

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

The label of 2007 Chateau Mouton Rothschild designed by Bernar Venet

(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire

The Emerging Wine Giant China - Mouton Cadet Bar Opening

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
Viewing all 2405 articles
Browse latest View live


<script src="https://jsc.adskeeper.com/r/s/rssing.com.1596347.js" async> </script>