We left the right bank, crossed the Dordogne river and went to the Entre-Deux-Mers region. We visited one of the so-called “Petits Châteaux” and realized that there are excellent wines made in Bordeaux by many of the not so known châteaux.
The average wine searcher price for Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers, is US$ 13. Château Reynier is one of the hundreds and hundreds of so-called petits châteaux in Bordeaux that produce excellent wines for little money. These petits châteaux can struggle to make their voices heard on the market.
In the case of Château Reynier, it is a bit different, because the estate is owned and run by Marc and Agnès Lurton. The Lurtons are Bordeaux’s first family, at the helm of scores of châteaux across the region and, increasingly, the world.
Marc Lurton was our host.
We started the visit with a vineyard walk that ended at the underground wine cellar where the wines are aged. We went back to the chai, where Marc gave us a university-style presentation with a white board on how his wines are produced. The visit ended with a tasting.
Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers
Château Reynier, together with Château Bouchet and Château Tour de Boisset, has 99 acres of vineyards on clay-limestone slopes and is owned and managed by Marc and Agnès Lurton, descendants of a great Bordeaux wine making and wine merchant family.
Marc’s grandfather bought the estates in 1901. When Marc – an œnologist trained at Bordeaux University - inherited the estate in 1997 he undertook major improvements: modernization of the wine making facilities, investment in bottling line and labelling equipment, installation of a system to protect the vine from frost in the spring, installation of natural waste-water treatment plant, restoration of the underground stone quarries for ageing the wine in oak barrels, replanting the vines to bring them up to date with modern norms, a work that continues until today. In 2012 Marc started working towards organic certification for a part of the vineyard.
Welcome
Unravelling the Dynasty
Stephen Brook August 21, 2008
The Lurtons are Bordeaux’s first family, at the helm of scores of châteaux across the region and, increasingly, the world.
Whenever a member of the Lurton family is joined in matrimony, you can be certain that there will be a swift issue of children – sometimes as many as ten of them. That, and the family’s ardent Catholicism, explains the ubiquity of this family across the face of Bordeaux, especially since most Lurtons have pursued careers in the wine business. They are everywhere: in Margaux and Moulis, in Pessac-Léognan and Sauternes, in the Entre-Deux-Mers. Between them, they own some 800ha (hectares), and have created their own distribution systems for the wines. In the beginning there was Léonce Récapet, who wasn’t a Lurton at all and was a distiller by trade. His daughter Denise married François Lurton. She died young, in 1934, and her father outlived her, dying at a ripe old age in 1943. Before her death she had given birth to four children: André (born in 1924), Lucien (1925), Simone, (1929), and Dominique (1932). Simone and her children played nopart in the wine business, but her three brothers emphatically did.
Vineyard Tour
Bordeaux Pioneers
André Lurton was born at the grand family base of Château Bonnet at Grézillac in the northern reaches of the Entre-Deux-Mers, and it remains his home.
When I stayed there almost 20 years ago, its interior appeared scarcely altered since the 19th century, and André seemed to like it that way. Over the years he developed Bonnet into a very large estate specifically geared to produce substantial quantities of wine at a fair price. The white in particular is a dependable staple on Bordeaux wine lists. The octogenarian has never fought shy of innovation, and introduced screwcaps for Bonnet’s white wines when most other producers were gasping with horror at the suggestion. But his real achievement lies elsewhere, in the northern Graves. Here he acquired a number of properties, notably La Louvière, Rochemorin and Couhins-Lurton, which he renovated. In 1965, when he bought La Louvière, the Graves was something of a backwater with just a few properties (Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Haut-Bailly, Domaine de Chevalier, and Carbonnieux) widely known. André was well aware of the exceptional terroir of this area; the finest wines had always come from the north, and he campaigned long and hard to unite its properties under a new appellation. With fierce determination, he fought many legal objections and tribunals until 1987, when the new Pessac-Léognan AC came into being. All the classified growths of the Graves lie within its boundaries. He also waged war against an urban development that would have led to the destruction of hundreds of hectares of vineyards. The Pessac-Léognan appellation has thrived, and the vineyards have expanded from a mere 500ha to their present 1,500ha. André was also hired to manage Dauzac in Margaux and he and his daughter Christine Lurton-De Caix have transformed this once obscure property into a source of excellent, and – for a classified growth – inexpensive wines. André Lurton is feisty and combative. He may not be universally loved in Bordeaux, but he is universally respected, and the other proprietors of Pessac- Léognan are well aware of how much they owe to his vision and tenacity. Back in the 1920s, François Lurton had bought Brane-Cantenac in Margaux and a sizeable share in Château Margaux, which he later exchanged for Clos Fourtet in St-Emilion. After his death in 1971, his four children inherited his properties, and the Margaux estates went to Lucien Lurton, who lived at Brane- Cantenac. He was soon acquiring other properties: Durfort-Vivens and Desmirail in Margaux, Bouscaut in the Graves, Climens and Doisy-Dubroca in Barsac, and more besides. Lucien was an efficient steward of his portfolio, but the estates were run on commercial lines, with many of the vineyards machine-harvested and cropped at yields higher than would be considered acceptable today. Nonetheless at some properties, such as Climens, the highest standards were maintained.
Tour of the Barrel Cellar
Weighty Inheritance
In 1992, when in his late sixties, Lucien chose not only to retire but hand over the running of his estates to his 10 children. Edwige Lurton is co-owner of Brane-Cantenac, a Margaux classed growth run by her brother Henri, who isa trained oenologist. Since the late 1990s the quality of its wines has soared. Third growth Desmirail was turned over to Denis Lurton, who has also overseen considerable improvements in quality, even though the wines are little known. Marie-Laure Lurton, also an oenologist, looks after Villegorge (Haut- Médoc), as well as two other properties, Duplessis in Moulis and La Tour de Bessan in Margaux. Quality remains sound rather then exceptional at this trio, but she has the least interesting terroirs. Gonzague Lurton inherited Margaux second-growth Durfort-Vivens. The property was in poor shape and it has been a lengthy task to restore its cellars and its reputation. The wine is controversial, as Gonzague insists on making it in a restrained, elegant style. He is the most reserved, even shy, of the siblings, but holds strong views on such issues as the probity of tasting samples during en primeur week, and isn’t afraid to express them.
While president of the Margaux Syndicat, he spearheaded the campaign against a new super-highway that would have vandalised the vineyards of Margaux. Plans for the new road have now been shelved. As for his wine, in some years Durfort-Vivens can be undernourished and it has yet to seem entirely worthy of its exalted secondgrowth status. (Gonzague married into another Bordeaux dynasty, the Merlauts, and his wife Claire Villars runs her own portfolio of fine properties: the two classified growths of La Ferrière in Margaux and Haut-Bages-Libéral in Pauillac, as well as La Gurgue in Margaux.) Lucien’s daughter Brigitte Lurton moved into Bouscaut in what became Pessac-Léognan, and also ran Climens. Family disputes in the 1990s led to her departure and she subsequently moved to Spain to pursue new interests in the Rueda region. Her sister Sophie Lurton- Congombles took over Bouscaut and she and husband Laurent Congombles have been steadily improving the quality of what used to be rather lean, pinched whites and red. Meanwhile the youngest of the siblings, Bérénice Lurton, took over at Climens. Despite her youth, she has proved fanatical in her devotion to the property, crafting the wine barrel by barrel and successfully increasing prices so as to allow her to pursue a perfectionist course in the vineyard as well as winery. Until very recently, she was also the owner of the medieval Château de Camarsac in the Entre-Deux-Mers, where she produced agreeable and inexpensive red wines. Today the property is being run by her brother Thierry, who has relinquished his share in Brane-Cantenac. Finally, there are two properties run by the most eccentric of the Lurton siblings, Louis. He used to make the wines at Bouscaut and is now responsible for the tiny Barsac second growth of Doisy-Dubroca and for Haut-Nouchet in Pessac-Léognan, both farmed organically. I find the wines inconsistent, indeed highly irregular both in quality and style. But Louis Lurton pursues his own path, unfazed by adverse criticism.
Tour of the Tank Cellar
Branching Out
The youngest of François Lurton’s children, Dominique, has handed over his properties in the Entre-Deux-Mers to two of his four children. Marc Lurton runs Château Reynier, not far from Château Bonnet; its wines are sound and reliable. Marc’s brother Pierre lives at Château Marjosse, which produces decent, unspectacular and fairly priced wines. Pierre used to run Clos Fourtet in St-Emilion in the 1980s, but is now better known as the genial, astute director of two first growths: Cheval Blanc and Yquem. When he gets up in the morning, he jokes, he must decide whether to turn left or right when leaving his driveway, all depending on whether his presence is needed more at Cheval Blanc or Yquem. By the time business mogul Bernard Arnault of LVMH, acquired Yquem in 1999, Pierre Lurton was already working for him as the experienced director of Cheval Blanc, so it seemed obvious to Arnault that he should run the newly acquired first growth as well. The development of the Mendoza joint venture, Cheval des Andes, has been another of his responsibilities. Pierre, following Lurton tradition, has six children waiting in the wings. His professional life is as hectic as his family life, requiring constant travel and promotion of these great wines. His uncle André has set an even more fecund example, with a total of seven children, mostly daughters who are not involved in the wine business. His sons Jacques and François probably felt there were already too many Lurtons in Bordeaux, especially their formidable father, so in the 1980s they carved a career for themselves as flying winemakers, with Jacques taking care of production and François looking after sales. Soon they began buying vineyards and building wineries and, by the early 2000s, were operating on a large scale in many parts of the world. In Mendoza, they were one of the first wineries to open in the outstanding Uco Valley, where their flagship wines are Gran Lurton Cabernet and Piedra Negra Malbec; in Toro, north of Madrid, their bodega has released a series of rich fleshy red wines; in Chile their Araucano estate produces superband costly Carmenère. But in 2007 Jacques left the company, which was renamed Domaines François Lurton. Jacques now runs his own properties in Australia and Entre-Deux-Mers and is acting as an exclusively white-wine consultant to a few estates that interest him. Family is the link between the Lurtons, yet they seem surprisingly different. François Lurton may be a chip off the old block, but if you saw Henri, Gonzague, and Sophie in the same room, you would not immediately suppose they were siblings. What they have in common is not just DNA but an immersion in wine from an early age. The Lurtons, of whatever generation, are not dabblers or dilettantes. Wine matters to them – and we are all their beneficiaries.
Tasting
Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France
Tour and Tasting at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction
Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update
Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Clos Puy Arnaud with Owner Thierry Valette, Appellation Côtes de Castillon - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch at Restaurant L’Atelier de Candale in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Cellar Tasting at Tertre-Rôtebœuf with Owner/ Winemaker François Mitjavile, Appellation Saint-Emilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
Vineyard Tour in a Golf Cart and Tasting at Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Dassault with the Managing Director, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Gourmet Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Couvent des Jacobins, Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
3 Days and Nights in the Spectacular Medieval Town of Saint-Émilion - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lecture and Tasting at Château Reynier with Owner/ Winemaker Marc Lurton, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Coutet, Premier Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Sauternes, with the General Manager - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch at Restaurant L’Entrecœur in Preignac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé Appellation Pessac-Léognan - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Lunch at Restaurant Le Bord d’Eau in Fronsac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château de la Rivière, Appellation Canon-Fronsac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)
L’Herbe: Visit of an Oyster Farmer - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Winery Tour and Vertical Tasting at Château Cos d’Estournel, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Estèphe - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Cos d’Estournel, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Managing Director Aymeric de Gironde - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Lunch at La Maison d’Estournel in Saint-Éstèphe - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Phélan-Ségur in Saint-Éstèphe, with Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Phélan-Ségur, with General Manager Véronique Dausse and Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Ferrière, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Margaux - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac, with Nicolas Glumineau, Managing Director - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac, with Nicolas Glumineau, Managing Director - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Massive (16 Vintages) Tasting of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande with MD/ Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA
Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France
Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Gruaud-Larose, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Saint-Julien - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Winery Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages, 5ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Picnic-style Lunch at Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Appellation Margaux - Bordeaux Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Sophie Schÿler, Owner of Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, for a Wine Pairing Luncheon at Evo Bistro in McLean, with the Wines of RdV and Clemens Busch, USA/ France/ Germany
Dinner in the Private Quarters of the Château Bouscaut, Grand Cru Classé de Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, with Owner Sophie Lurton Cogombles and Winemaker/ Owner/ Husband Laurent Cogombles
Winery Tour and Dinner at Château Bouscaut, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Owner Sophie Cogombles-Lurton and her Husband Laurent Cogombles - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Antinori is the most famous name in Italian wine and the influence of Piero Antinori in the last 25 years has been nothing short of revolutionary. Antinori's flagship wine, Tignanello, first appeared in 1971 and caused a sensation by its use Cabernet Sauvignon in the Sangiovese blend and with its practice of ageing in small French barriques. Antinori was accused of vinous treachery and treason but soon barrique-aged blends of Sangiovese and Cabernet began appearing all across Tuscany.
Solaia is a Cabernet-dominated blend, which, like Tignanello, is from the Santa Cristina estate and is stunningly rich. Tenuta Belvedere is in Bolgheri on the Mediterranean coast .
The Guado al Tasso estate is also part of the small, prestigiousBolgheri DOC zone which has been famous for its Rosé wines since the Seventies: along with the white wines made here, they were awarded the DOC in 1984, which was extended to the reds in 1994. The area is now best-known and admired for its outstanding red wines, the so-called Super-Tuscans. The estate covers over 1,000 hectares, 300 of which are planted with vineyards, and the rest with wheat, sunflowers and olives
Tenuta Guado al Tasso was part of feudal lands of about 4,048 hectares along about 7km of coast and belonged to the Della Gherardesca family, whose roots in this region date back to over 1,200 years ago. In the Thirties the land was inherited by Carlotta della Gherardesca Antinori - mother of Piero Antinori - and her sister, who was married to Mario Incisa della Rocchetta (who took possession of the nearby Tenuta San Guido). There were seven castles on the estate, four of which are still standing, and 86 watchtowers, built 1000 years ago to protect the family from Saracen invaders from the African coast.
There are currently 300 hectares of vineyards at Tenuta Guado al Tasso, situated at an altitude of 45-60m a.s.l. on various types of soil. The varieties planted are Vermentino (a grape variety native to the coastal area of Liguria and northern Tuscany, which has also flourished for many years in Corsica and Sardinia), Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. There are also small quantities of other varieties including Cabernet Franc.
Many ideas and resources have been invested in the Guado al Tasso estate, for constant research into improved quality: as a result, a nursery for rooted cuttings was created here in 1994, mainly for the propagation of Vermentino, but also to produce the best possible selections of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for use in other Antinori estates.
The mitigating influence of the Mediterranean prevents drastic temperature variations and the vines flower and ripen early, thanks to the stable, fairly warm microclimate with its extraordinary light during the final phases of ripening. Thanks to the microclimate of the "Bolgheri amphitheatre", harvesting takes place early here, about two weeks before the Chianti harvest.
The Guado al Tasso estate makes Scalabrone (Bolgheri Rosato DOC) from Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah, Vermentino di Bolgheri DOC, a monovarietal Vermentino (made for the first time in 1996) and since 1990, the Guado al Tasso Bolgheri DOC Superiore from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes.