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Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Pictures: Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Chinese Painting in the Reception Area of the Renovated Winery

We started the day with a tour and tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé. Owner Henri Lurton was our host. Frome there, we drove over to Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé for a tour, tasting and a pique-nique style lunch with matching Kirwan wines at the château. Owner Natalie Schyler-Thierry was our host. The last stop of the day was at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois. Winemaker Labenne, from the family that used to own the estate, was our host. We ended the day at Hotel/Restaurant Le Vignoble-France et Angleterre in Pauillac.

Pictures: Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler

Château Kirwan is a 3ième Grand Cru Classé producer in the Appellation Margaux that exists since the late 17th century. We toured Château Kirwan and had a tasting in one of the rooms of the renovated winery. We had a gorgeous view of the Château Kirwan vineyard from ther. We then moved to another room of the renovated winery where we sat down and enjoyed a pique-nique style lunch with matching Kirwan wines.

Owner Natalie Schyler was our host for the tour, tasting and lunch.

Pictures: The Historic Family Residence of Château Kirwan

Château Kirwan

The property is located in the commune of Cantenac and consists of a beautiful 18th century château and 35 hectares of vineyards. The wine is typically a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The grapes are hand-harvested and then fermented in temperature-controlled, concrete tanks. The wine is then matured in oak barriques (30-50% new) for 18 months. It is bottled after a light fining and filtration. Its second wine is called Les Charmes de Kirwan. Château Kirwan produces on average 16,000 cases per year.

Pictures: Sophie Schyler Pouring at the 2016 UGC Tasting in Washington DC and at a Private Dinner with Annette and Christian Schiller and Marlene and Charles Bullfighter Reddoor following the Tasting. See: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on the 2016 North America Tour - Schiller’s Favorites

Pictures: Sophie Schÿler of Château Kirwan, Annette Schiller of ombiasy PR and WineTours and Chef/ Owner  Driss Zahidi of Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia, at Evo Bistro. See: Sophie Schÿler, Owner of Château Kirwan, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, Margaux, for a Wine Pairing Luncheon at Evo Bistro in McLean, with the Wines of RdV and Clemens Busch, USA/ France/ Germany

History

The history of this estate, built all in one piece, begins with the famous English merchant Sir John Collingwood, one of the first négociants in history.

For nearly a century he reigned over the noble "de Lasalle" land, acquired in 1751 and adjoining the Ganet property. On this estate with its 40 acres (16 hectares) of vines, he watched the dazzling rise of Bordeaux wines, highly esteemed by His Majesty in London. This craze was particularly beneficial for the noble growths of Cantenac, Margaux, which became the most renowned Médoc wines. Fit to age and to grow finer over the years, they sold for a considerable price.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

Settling in the region, Mark Kirwan - an Irishman from a family of merchants - became part of the estate's history by marrying one of the daughters of Sir John Collingwood. In 1760 he inherited the estate, already renowned in Europe.

Taking the reins, he united the "de Lasalle" and Ganet lands, building a one-storey Charterhouse and lending his name to the vineyard so that merchants would be better able to identify and market the wines.

Thomas Jefferson, then Ambassador of the United States in France, visited the Bordeaux vineyards in May 1787. He was not only the future president of the United States, but the greatest emissary of Bordeaux wines. In his travel diary and his book "Jefferson on Wine", he elevated Kirwan wine - then spelled "Quirouen" - to second classified growth, making it much more recognizable on the far shores of the Atlantic.

The heirs of the Kirwan family sold the estate in 1827 , in the midst of a severe economic crisis after the upheavals of the Revolution and the First Empire.

Pictures: The New Gate of the Renovated Winery by Russian Artists Kinga and Anatoly Stolnikoff

The wine's notoriety was confirmed by brokers in the Bordeaux financial market who were ordered by Napoleon III to select the finest samples of Médoc for the 1855 World's Fair. This official ranking placed Kirwan at the head of Médoc Third Great Growths, once again highlighting the exceptional and authentic character of its terroir.

After a period of instability, the owner of Château Kirwan and mayor of Bordeaux Camille Godard left the estate to the city, which used it for a time as a hotel and reception venue. It then became the property of the Schÿler family, whose family trading house had already been distributing the wine for several years. The Schÿler family traces it roots back to the Hanseatic League through d'Armand Schÿler fourth generation of the merchant family that settled in Bordeaux in 1739. His son Mark maintained the estate's commercial activities in Northern Europe and opened Central European markets thanks to a first-rate "art-deco" advertising campaign.

During the second half of the 20th century his grandson Jean Henri expanded into the North American and Japanese markets. He passed away November 2016 at the age of 85.

Today the châteaux is managed by the next generation Yann, Natalie and Sophie Schyler.

Recently Chateau Kirwan completed a renovation of the wine making facilities. Importantly, the stainless steel vats were replaced with concrete tanks.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Barry Bros & Rudd: Château Kirwan

Château Kirwan is a 3ème Cru Classé Margaux property that has hit form in the last decade after years of producing wine not meriting its Cru Classé status. Kirwan takes its name from its Irish proprietor who was, rather unfortunately, guillotined in 1792.

Since 1925 Kirwan has been owned by the négociant firm, Schröder and Schÿler. The property is located in the commune of Cantenac and consists of a beautiful 18th century château and 35 hectares of vineyards.

The wine is typically a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The grapes are hand-harvested and then fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. The wine is then matured in oak barriques (30-50% new) for 18 months. It is bottled after a light fining and filtration.

Michel Rolland has been consulting at Kirwan since the early 90s and the wines are now aromatically richer and have more grip and body, as well as displaying much more depth of fruit.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar

Tasting

Before lunch, we stopped in one of the tasting rooms of the renovated wine cellar for a tasting. We enjoyed the 2004 Château Kirwan and the great view very much.

Pictures: Tasting with Natalie Schyler

Lunch

We then moved to another room of the renovated winery where we sat down and enjoyed a pique-nique style lunch with matching Kirwan wines.

Pictures: Pique-nique style lunch withNa talie Schyler and matching Kirwan wines

The Wines we Tasted

2004 Château Kirwan

wine-searcher average price in US$: 62

Aromas of cedar, spice box, incense, burning embers, black currants, and new wood jump from the glass of this full-bodied, structured effort. Behaving more like a Pauillac than a Margaux, it is a long, concentrated, powerful wine meant for long aging. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Score: 90 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (171), June 2007


2016 Schröder & Schÿler Signatures en Bordeaux Blanc

This is a negotiont wine by Schröder & Schÿler.

wine-searcher average price in US$: 20


1996 Château Kirwan

wine-searcher average price in US$: 104

Readers should note that this property has significantly improved the quality of its wines, and now deserves a serious look in nearly every vintage. The 1996 Kirwan is a highly-extracted, rich, medium-bodied wine with a deep ruby/purple color, and ripe cassis fruit intermixed with a touch of new oak, prunes, and spice. The wine has come together nicely since I first tasted it from cask. It appears to be an excellent, nearly outstanding effort. There is moderate tannin in the finish, so give this beefy, rich, muscular wine 6-7 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. (4/1999) Robert Parker's Wine Advocate


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Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

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Pictures: Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Pictures: Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron. See: At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dear Wine Lovers,

this mail is to let you know that I was able to organize 2 fantastic wine maker dinners with top classified Bordeaux Châteaux - Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe and Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan - with two exceptional chefs in the Washington DC area.

Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, at BToo

Please welcome Sofia from the Tesseron family (owners, managers, winemakers of Château Lafon-Rochet) on May, 7, 2018 at 6.30 pm for a fabulous dinner meticulously prepared by chef Bertrand Chemel at restaurant 2941 in Falls Church. The dinner is at $ 170 incl. tax and gratuity, showcasing the phenomenal wines of Château Lafon-Rochet. Located in Saint-Estèphe, nestled between two legendary classified growths, Cos d’Estournel and Lafite Rothschild, Château Lafon-Rochet has the distinction of being one of five Chateau in Saint-Estèphe to be included in the 1855 Classifaction of the Médoc. With its origins dating back to the 16th century, Lafon-Rochet has exhibited the outstanding quality in winemaking to stand the test of time.

For the menu and to sign up see here: https://www.giftrocker.com/secure/Order/?h=652e7ff1

Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, at 2941

Please welcome Daina, right hand of the owner family and managers of Château Haut-Bailly, on May 8, 2018 at 6.30 pm for an exclusive dinner chef Bart Vandeale prepared to match the fantastic Haut-Bailly wines at restaurant Btoo in Washington DC. The dinner is $ 143 incl. tax and gratuity and focusses on the outstanding wines of Château Haut-Bailly. Haut-Bailly has the distinction of being one of the only 16 Chateaux in Pessac-Léognan to be included in the 1959 Grand Cru Classé Classifaction of the Graves region. For over four centuries Haut-Bailly defended its reputation as producer of superb quality.

For the menu and to sign up see here: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/celebrate-with-us-our-5th-anniversary-and-chef-barts-birthday-tickets-45148315828?ref=enivtefor001&invite=MTQyMjg0NTQvY3NjaGlsbGVyQHNjaGlsbGVyLXdpbmUuY29tLzA%3D&utm_source=eb_email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=inviteformalv2&utm_term=attend

Ombiasy 2018 Winetour to Bordeaux

Both châteaux are very close to my heart and I cherish the friendship with the people at the châteaux. As many of you know I organize wine tours to Bordeaux. Every year I somewhat change the itinerary. However a visit to Lafon-Rochet and the final winepairing dinner at Haut-Bailly is a MUST and I am very much looking forward to these visits in September of this year. here is the itinerary: https://ombiasypr.com/index.php/wine-tours/bordeaux/bordeaux-itinerary

Looking forward to sharing phenomenal Bordeaux wines with you on May 7th and May 8th,

CHEERS

Annette

Pictures: Chef Bertrand Chemel of 2941 with Annette and Christian Schiller. See:  Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Chef Bart Vandaele at BToo on 14th Street, Washington DC, NW. See: JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

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At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

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Pictures: Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron. See: At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Pictures: Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dear Wine Lovers,

this mail is to let you know that I was able to organize 2 fantastic wine maker dinners with top classified Bordeaux Châteaux - Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe and Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan - with two exceptional chefs in the Washington DC area.

Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, at BToo

Please welcome Sofia from the Tesseron family (owners, managers, winemakers of Château Lafon-Rochet) on May, 7, 2018 at 6.30 pm for a fabulous dinner meticulously prepared by chef Bertrand Chemel at restaurant 2941 in Falls Church. The dinner is at $ 170 incl. tax and gratuity, showcasing the phenomenal wines of Château Lafon-Rochet. Located in Saint-Estèphe, nestled between two legendary classified growths, Cos d’Estournel and Lafite Rothschild, Château Lafon-Rochet has the distinction of being one of five Chateau in Saint-Estèphe to be included in the 1855 Classifaction of the Médoc. With its origins dating back to the 16th century, Lafon-Rochet has exhibited the outstanding quality in winemaking to stand the test of time.

For the menu and to sign up see here: https://www.giftrocker.com/secure/Order/?h=652e7ff1

Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan, at 2941

Please welcome Daina, right hand of the owner family and managers of Château Haut-Bailly, on May 8, 2018 at 6.30 pm for an exclusive dinner chef Bart Vandeale prepared to match the fantastic Haut-Bailly wines at restaurant Btoo in Washington DC. The dinner is $ 143 incl. tax and gratuity and focusses on the outstanding wines of Château Haut-Bailly. Haut-Bailly has the distinction of being one of the only 16 Chateaux in Pessac-Léognan to be included in the 1959 Grand Cru Classé Classifaction of the Graves region. For over four centuries Haut-Bailly defended its reputation as producer of superb quality.

For the menu and to sign up see here: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/celebrate-with-us-our-5th-anniversary-and-chef-barts-birthday-tickets-45148315828?ref=enivtefor001&invite=MTQyMjg0NTQvY3NjaGlsbGVyQHNjaGlsbGVyLXdpbmUuY29tLzA%3D&utm_source=eb_email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=inviteformalv2&utm_term=attend

Ombiasy 2018 Winetour to Bordeaux

Both châteaux are very close to my heart and I cherish the friendship with the people at the châteaux. As many of you know I organize wine tours to Bordeaux. Every year I somewhat change the itinerary. However a visit to Lafon-Rochet and the final winepairing dinner at Haut-Bailly is a MUST and I am very much looking forward to these visits in September of this year. here is the itinerary: https://ombiasypr.com/index.php/wine-tours/bordeaux/bordeaux-itinerary

Looking forward to sharing phenomenal Bordeaux wines with you on May 7th and May 8th,

CHEERS

Annette

Pictures: Chef Bertrand Chemel of 2941 with Annette and Christian Schiller. See:  Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Chef Bart Vandaele at BToo on 14th Street, Washington DC, NW. See: JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France 

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

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Picture: Annette Schiller in Gevrey-Chambertin/ Burgundy

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September):

May 12 - May 20: Southern Germany and Alsace: Discover Germany's stunning Pinot-Noirs, white Burgundy grapes, Rieslings, compare the different wine styles of Germany and Alsace, indulge in beautiful, medieval wine villages, enjoy culinary highlights in both Germany and Alsace. For details see ombiasy WineTours

June 11 - June 21: From Berlin to Frankfurt: Discover Germany's internationally rather unknown wine regions east of Frankfurt, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Württemberg, Franken, expect gorgeous Pinot-Blancs, Silvaner, Lemberger, attend performances at world-renowned theater houses, delve deep into the unique culture and history of the once divided Germany. For details see ombiasy WineTours

September 04 - September 13: Immersion in Bordeaux: Taste first-class wines in Saint-Emilion, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, Pessac-Léognan, Sauterne, enjoy exquisite wine pairing lunches and dinners at world-famous Châteaux, witness the art of making a barrique, visit an oyster farmer, get the full Bordeaux experience. For details see ombiasy WineTours

September 20 - September 30: From Lyon to Paris: Visit premium Domaines in Beaujolais, Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Chablis, Champagne, discover historical gems such as the Château de Clos de Vougeot, Hospice de Beaune, Abbey de Cîteaux, experience French hospitality and genuine Burgundian cuisine. For details see ombiasy WineTours

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

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Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac

Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac is one of the most stunning estates in Bordeaux. It is currently owned by the insurance company AXA Millésimes.

We had a gorgeous lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron. This was preceeded by a winery tour and a tasting. This posting covers the first part of the visit: The tour and tasting. A separate posting will cover the lunch.

Nicolas Santier, responsable du développement réceptif et tourisme, was our host. During the tour, we were welcomed by Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac

Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Longueville Baron (often referred to as Pichon Baron) in Pauillac is one of 15 Deuxièmes Crus in the Classification of 1855. It was once part of a larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan, along with Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. In 1850 the estate was divided into the two current Pichon estates facing each other as one enters Pauillac along the D2 highway.

Pictures: Sorting at at Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Baron stayed in the de Pichon Longueville family until 1933 when the last surviving family member sold it to Jean Bouteiller, member of a family well-known in the Bordeaux wine scene. His heirs did not manage to keep the quality of the wines and in 1987 the estate was bought by AXA Millésimes. With the new owner, reconstruction of the fermenting room and cellars, and renovation of the château itself, began in 1988.

Pictures: With Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director

Excellent terroir across from the 1st growth Latour property, stretching south bordering the Léoville estates in Saint-Julien gives the wines elegance, balance, and finesse. Château Pichon Baron's 73 hectares are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (35%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then macerated for 20-30 days, and fermented at 28-32 °C in temperature controlled stainless steel vats of varying sizes. The wine is transferred into oak barrels for aging after finishing its malolactic fermentation.

The estate also produces a second wine, Les Tourelles de Longueville. Les Griffons de Pichon Baron is the estate's latest addition.

The property is currently managed by Christian Seely.

Pictures: In the Tank Cellar of  Château Pichon Longueville Baron

The AXA Wine Portfolio

Château Pichon Baron, 2nd Cru Classé Pauillac, France
Château Suduiraut, 1er Cru Classé Sauternes, France
Château Petit-Village, Pomerol, France
Château Pibran, Pauillac, France
Domaine de l’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, France
Domaine Disznókö, Tokaj, Hongrie
Quinta do Noval, Douro, Portugal
AXA also owns one of the larger Bordeaux wine negociant companies, Compagnie Medocaine.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar of  Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Tasting

We tasted all 3 wines. The 2016 and 2015 vintages were from barrel, the others from bottle. I have put the wine searcher average prices in US$ in brackets.

Pictures: Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac

2016 Les Griffons De Pichon Baron US$49

Les Griffons de Pichon Baron has a pure, direct character. The blend’s grapes come primarily from gravelly plots of land near the Gironde estuary, a beneficial environment for Cabernet Sauvignon. Les Griffons offers a vigorous, fresh tasting experience. It is full-bodied and bursting with energy. It can be cellared for over 20 years, or enjoyed right away.


2016 Les Tourelles de Longueville US$42

 Named after the turrets that embellish the château, Les Tourelles de Longueville embodies the charm of the estate. The grapes used in this wine’s blend are primarily from the Sainte Anne plot, mostly planted with Merlot, giving it a distinctive personality. Les Tourelles de Longueville is alluring, voluptuous, and a delight for the senses. It is an introduction to the Pichon Baron spirit. It can be enjoyed young, or cellared for 15 years or more.

2016 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$161

96-98 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - The 2016 Pichon-Longueville Baron is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot picked between 3 and 18 October at 39 hectoliters per hectare for estate (therefore the Grand Vin will be less). It is matured in 80% new oak and 20% one year old for 18 months. It has a very intense, extremely pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and graphite notes; it is a straight-down-the-fairway Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with a very tensile opening, that seam of graphite penetrating the black fruit. There is a wonderful structure here, unapologetically classic in style with just the right amount of austerity on the aristocratic finish. The aftertaste is incredibly long, lingering after two or three minutes in the mouth. This is a majestic Pichon-Baron and it may well to surpass both the 2009 or 2010. (NM) (4/2017)


2015 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$160

97 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2015 Pichon-Longueville Baron is enticingly scented of chocolate-covered cherries, crushed red currants and mulberries with touches of baking spices, potpourri and bay leaves plus a hint of fallen leaves. Sumptuously elegant, refreshing and medium-bodied with gorgeous, expressive, perfumed red fruits and very fine, very firm tannins, it has a persistent, perfumed finish. Its remarkable intensity, freshness and very firm frame suggest a long-lived Pichon Baron, which should cellar gracefully for 30+ years. (LPB) (2/2018)


2010 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$234

97 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - Administrator Christian Seeley thinks the 2010 is the greatest Pichon Longueville Baron he has ever made, equaling some of the estate’s colossal wines from vintages such as 1989 and 1990. It was certainly showing well when I stopped by the chateau in January. Opaque purple, with loads of charcoal, licorice, incense and some exotic Asian spices along with abundant cassis liqueur, blackberry and hints of roasted coffee and spring flowers, it is full-bodied and opulent, with relatively high tannins, but they have sweetened up considerably and seem less aggressive than they did from barrel. The oak is clearly pushed to the background by the wine's wealth of fruit, glycerin and full-bodied texture. This sensational Pichon Longueville Baron needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and should keep 30+ years. (RP) 97+ (2/2013)


2009 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$209

98 Robert Parker - Revealing incredible quality and performing better than it did from barrel, the 2009 appears to be the greatest Pichon Longueville Baron since the 1990 and 1989. An amazing opaque blue/purple color is followed by scents of spring flowers, graphite, smoky charcoal, incense, blackberries, blueberries and hints of coffee and chocolate. Incredibly intense, pure and flawlessly constructed with extravagant layers of fruit and richness, this offering has developed beautifully under the management of Christian Seeley. It is a voluptuous, opulent Pichon Longueville Baron that may eclipse anything they have made in the past. This brilliant wine should be at its peak between 2018 and 2045. Hedonists Gazette, August 2014


Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Following the tour and tasting, we walked over to the chateau for lunch. I will report about it in a separate posting.

Pictures: Walking over for Lunch

Pictures: Lunch

Bye-bye

Thanks to Nicolas Santier and Jean-Rene Matignon for the tour and the outstandng tasting. It was wonderful.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director of Château Pichon Longueville Baron, at Ripple in Washington DC. See: Winemaker Dinner with Jean-René Matignon (Château Pichon Longueville Baron) and Pierre Montégut (Château Suduiraut) at Ripple in Washington DC, USA/France

Pictures: See: Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron with Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

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Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

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Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

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How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

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Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

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Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

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Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Annette Schiller Presented "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Carl Willner, President of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

Annette Schiller presented - mainly German, but also French, Austrian and Italian - abbey wines at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) on April 20, 2018. 39 interested wine lovers joined Annette and me.

Invitation

Dear German Wine Society Members and Guests: You are in for a very special treat: “Abbey Wines”.

This tasting (and seminar) by our own Annette Schiller will show the decisive impact the monasteries and the monks starting in medieval times had on developing viticultural knowledge in Germany and elsewhere.

Annette Schiller is well known to the GWS community through previous wine tastings and her ombiasy wine tours to Bordeaux, Burgundy and Germany. She has visited almost all of the estates she will present on one or more of her tours and has intimate knowledge of these producers.

Annette will present 12 wines – 8 from Germany, 2 from France, 1 from Austria, 1 from Italy (Alto Aldige) – that are still produced in monasteries. Some monasteries have been secularized and taken over by government entities, some are now in private hands, others are still today run by monks or sisters. The highlight will be the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot from the Côte d'Or which retails for about US$ 180. In 1336 the monks of Cîteaux – owners of the vineyard site Clos de Vougeot – were the first to notice that different plots gave different wines and therefore laid the earliest foundation of the vineyard classification system.

The monasteries were always a center of intellectual curiosity and thirst for knowledge. The monasteries had huge holdings on farmland and vineyards - mostly gifts of rich aristocrats who at the end of their lives thought to buy a stairway to heaven. The monks had to work in agriculture to sustain their living. Therefore the monks not only focused on religious studies but also on studying better methods in farming and viticulture. The monks were also instrumental in spreading the art of viticulture to other parts of Europe by establishing daughter monasteries all over Europe. Without their work viticulture would not have developed the way it did and would not have become a part of fine living as we know it today throughout the world.

DATE: Friday, April 20th, Doors open at 7:00 pm; tasting begins at 7:30 pm. Please make reservations by April 16, 2018.

VENUE: Harbour Square Club Room, 500 N St SW, Washington, DC. Marilyn Scarbrough has reserved a few parking spaces, but we cannot guarantee these will be available. The Waterfront Metro Station is nearby.

COST: $40 for members, $47 for non-members.

Cheese and charcuterie will be served. Alcohol consumption can lead to intoxication. GWS members and guests should use public transportation, rely on a designated driver or taxi, or taste the wines rather than finish them.

If you have any questions, please email Christian Schiller at cschiller@schiller-wine.com or Annette Schiller at aschiller@ombiasypr.com

Pictures: Annette Schiller Presenting "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

The Wines

We poured 12 wines - 8 from Germany, 2 from France, 1 from Austria, 1 from Italy (Alto Aldige)- that are still produced in monasteries. Some monasteries have been secularized and taken over by government entities, some are now in private hands, others are still today run by monks or sisters.

Pictures: Annette Schiller Presenting "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

2015 Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Markgraf von Baden, Bodensee, Baden

Picture: 2015 Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Markgraf von Baden, Bodensee, Baden

Mighty Schloss Salem, with today 110 hectares of vineyards, was originally an abbey, founded by Cistercian monks in 1134 in the small village of Salmansweiler. The monks named the abbey Salem - the place of peace. Over the years, it became a gigantic monastery complex with large agricultural estates run by the monks. The Cistercian monks came from the Bourgogne and they brought the traditions of winemaking to Lake Constance.

The church lost the Salem Abbey in 1802, when under Napoleon’s secularization, Europe was reorganized. Abbey Salem passed into the hand of the ruler of Baden, the Margrave of Baden, and became Schloss Salem.

The original base of the House of Baden is Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, with 25 hectares of vineyard land. These were the only vineyards of the von Baden family until they received the Lake Constance vineyards as part of Napoleon’s secularization. The von Baden family gave the Federal State of Baden and the wine growing area Baden their names. They were the rulers for about 1000 years.

Salem used to be a wine-producing abbey in the Lake Constance Area in the South of Germany until Napoleon gave it to the ruler of Baden, Markgraf von Baden, about 200 years ago. The Markgraf converted it to a castle and continued to make excellent wines.

Pictures: Visit of Schloss Salem, Kirche Birnau and Weingut Markgraf von Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

2015 Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Pinot Noir, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France

Picture: 2015 Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion, Pinot Noir, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France

The highlight of the tasting was the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot from Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion which retails for about US$ 180. In 1336 the monks of Cîteaux – owners of the vineyard site Clos de Vougeot – were the first to notice that different plots gave different wines and therefore laid the earliest foundation of the vineyard classification system.

The monasteries were always a center of intellectual curiosity and thirst for knowledge. The monasteries had huge holdings on farmland and vineyards - mostly gifts of rich aristocrats who at the end of their lives thought to buy a stairway to heaven. The monks had to work in agriculture to sustain their living. Therefore the monks not only focused on religious studies but also on studying better methods in farming and viticulture. The monks were also instrumental in spreading the art of viticulture to other parts of Europe by establishing daughter monasteries all over Europe. Without their work viticulture would not have developed the way it did and would not have become a part of fine living as we know it today throughout the world.

Today, the Clos de Vougeotis shared among 83 land owners, one of which is Domaine Armelle et Benrard Rion.


Pictures: Arriving at Château du Clos de Vougeot. See: Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Domaine Rion is in Vosne Romanée, on the Route National. Domaine Rion was founded in 1880 by Pierre Rion. His son Louis substantially enlarged the domaine. In 1952, the domaine was divided between his 2 sons. The older one, Marcel, stayed in Vosne Romanée. In 1973, Marcel's son Bernard Rion joined Domaine Rion and is now with his wife Armelle the "senior" generation at the domaine.

Since 2006, their daughter Alice has been working at the domaine. The husband of Alice, Louis, joined her in 2010. His focus is the work in the vineyard. Since 2015, Nelly, the oldest of the 3 daughters of Armelle and Bernard, came back to the Domaine and takes care mainly of the marketing.

Pictures: At Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Bourgogne. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

NV Crémant, Brut, von Hövel, Mosel

Picture: NV Crémant, Brut, von Hövel, Mosel

The 21-hectare von Hövel estate operates out of a manor house that was completed in the 12th century, where it initially served as an abbey retreat for the famous wine monastery of St. Maximin in Trier. Located in Konz-Oberemmel in a side valley of the Saar, the old cellar is today as it was over 800 years ago. The winery was inducted into what is now the von Kunow family in 1806 when it was purchased by Emmerich Grach—son of a well-to-do chandler and the great-great grandfather to Max von Kunow (the estate’s current proprietor), after Napoleon secularized the vineyards of the Saar and Mosel from the churches and monasteries.

Pictures: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

2017 Grauburgunder, Klosterhof Töplitz, Brandenburg, Saale-Unstrut

Picture: 2017 Grauburgunder, Klosterhof Töplitz, Brandenburg, Saale-Unstrut

Weingut Klosterhof Töplitz is an organic estate in the Berlin Region, founded by Klaus Wolenski, who is a career changer. He is now assisted by his daughter Lara Wolenski-Ross. Weingut Klosterhof Töplitz vineyard area totals 22 hectares.

It was the Cistercians from Lehnin Abbey who brought the wine to Töplitz more than 600 years ago. Then as now it is the sunny location and the water all around, which ensure the optimal microclimate for winemaking. Lehnin Abbey was founded in 1180 by Cistercian monks and secularized during the Protestant Reformation in 1542.

2016 Grüner Veltliner, Stift Klosterneuburg, Wachau, Austria

Picture: 2016 Grüner Veltliner, Stift Klosterneuburg, Wachau, Austria

Weingut Stift Klosterneuberg is the winemaking operation of the historic Augustinian Monastery in the town of Klosterneuberg located in the north-western suburbs of Vienna.

At 900 years old it is one of the oldest and most well-respected wine producers in Austria. The monastery is traditionally associated with viticulture, scholarship and art. It has an extensive library, enormous wine cellars and the famous Verduner Altar (1181) by Nicholaus of Verdun.

Today, the Monastery owns vineyards in Klosterneuberg itself and also in Vienna, both growing predominantly white grapes, while grapes for red wines are grown at Tattendorf in Thermenregion.

2016 Eiscktaler Sylvaner, Kloster Neustift, Alto Aldige, Italy

Picture: 2016 Eiscktaler Sylvaner, Kloster Neustift, Alto Aldige, Italy

The Italian wine comes Weingut Kloster Neustift Novacella, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy. Weingut Kloster Neustift has been making wine for more than 850 years. The abbey owns and manages some vineyards of its own but also buys fruit from local growers.

The abbey itself is open to visitors and located in the northernmost region of Italy, Alto Adige, in the Alps, just south of Brenner Pass and Austria. This region is bilingual, but most people speak German as a first language. The property is a working, active abbey established in 1142 and currently contains a boarding school for almost 100 children and an Educational Conference Center. The Augustinian Abbey supports itself and cares for its parishes through the cultivation and sale of herbs and fruit, the Abbazia di Novacella wines and tourism to the Abbey, which encompasses the history-rich monastery and grounds, museum, gift shop and more.

2016 Riesling, Abtei Sankt Hildegard, Rheingau

Picture: 2016 Riesling, Abtei Sankt Hildegard, Rheingau

Abtei St. Hildegard is a community of Benedictine nuns in Rüdesheim, Germany. Founded by Hildegard of Bingen in 1165, it was dissolved in 1804, but restored, with new buildings, in 1904. The currently about 100 nuns produce wine and crafts. The nunnery belongs to the Beuronese Congregation within the Benedictine Confederation.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Sister Thekla Baumgart of Klosterweingut Sankt Hildegard

2016 Steinberger, Riesling, Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

Picture: 2016 Steinberger, Riesling, Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

Steinberger Riesling trocken of Weingut Kloster Eberbach - Hessische Staatsweingüter is the classic "abbey wine" from Germany.

The Steinberg is a 32.4 hectares (80 acres) wall-enclosed vineyard in walking distance of the Eberbach Abbey in the Rheingau. It is one of the most famous German vineyards.

The favorite site of the monks, they built a 4 meter (13ft) wall around the vineyard to keep out thieves. This and its Cistercian heritage give Steinberg a distinct similarity to the famed Clos De Vougeot in Bourgogne in neigbouring France. The name Steinberg is German for "stony hill" after Stein = stone and Berg = mountain or hill.

The Steinberg is one of handful single vineyard sites in Germany which for reasons of historical significance have dispensation from having to include a village name together with the vineyard's name, so the wines from the Steinberg are simply labelled Steinberger.

The Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine River. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive.

The Abbey, including its vineyards, was secularised under Napoleon in 1803. The new owner was the Duke of Nassau. Then, from 1866, Prussia became the owner of the Abbey and its vineyards. Finally, in 1945 after World War II, the Federal State of Hessen took it over.

Most of the vineyard holdings of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach date back to the days, when Cistercian monks founded the Eberbach Abbey. The vineyards of the Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe.

Pictures: Tour of  Weingut Kloster Eberbach and Steinberg Vineyard. See: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

2016 Riesling, Réserve, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France

Picture: 2016 Riesling, Réserve, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France

Domaine Weinbach is located just outside the castle-crowned town of Kaysersberg, the birthplace of 1952 Nobel Peace Prize winner Albert Schweitzer.

Domaine Weinbach is a former monastery built in 1612 by capucines monks, who made wine already on the Clos. During the French Revolution, the monastery was seized and sold as a national property. In 1898, it was acquired by the Faller brothers. The Faller brothers left it to their son and nephew Théo. He, a prominent figure in Alsace winegrowing, was devoted to Domaine Weinbach all his life and developed, expanded and enhanced it.

After Théo’s death in 1979, the winery was managed by his widow Colette and their two daughters, Laurence and Catherine, who continued the commitment to quality.

Much of the credit of course has to go to her daughters Catharine and Laurence Faller. The latter studied chemical engineering, then took enology courses in Toulouse and Beaune. She even did a stint in California in 1989. In 1993, she returned to Domaine Weinbach and began assuming some of the winemaking duties. By 1996, she was making many of the winemaking decisions, and in 1998 she was given free rein as winemaker.

In 2014, Laurence died at age 47 from a tragic heart attack and in 2015 Colette passed away at age 87 in February 2015.

Catherine Faller, married to a dentist, now runs Domaine Weinbach with her sons Théo and Eddy. Ghislain Berthiot, who worked with Laurence for many years, continues to be in charge of winemaking.

Domaine Weinbach comprises 27 hectares. Although all the bottles of Domaine Weinbach bear the name of the Clos des Capucins, only a small number originate from the Clos itself. The rest come from the Faller's other holdings, including in their Grand Cru sites. Domaine Weinbach wines also come from vineyards they have leased and cultivate themselves.

Schlossberg is probably the most significant site, being the first vineyard in Alsace to have Grand Cru status approved in 1975. Furstentum is a south-southeast facing Grand Cru site, nestled in the Kaysersberg Valley to the northeast of Schlossberg. The vines in Grand Cru Mambourg, like Furstentum, are a recent purchase for the Faller Family. The nearby Altenbourg lieu-dit provides Pinot Gris as well as Gewurztraminer.

Pictures: At Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catherine Faller: Tasting and Tour – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: Christian Schiller and the Late Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach. See: Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace

Picture: Christian Schiller and Catherine Faller in Virginia. See: Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia

2015 Saalhäuser Pinot-Blanc, Kloster Pforta, Saale-Unstrut

Picture: 2015 Saalhäuser Pinot-Blanc, Kloster Pforta, Saale-Unstrut

Kloster Pforta is one of 5 big wineries in Germany that are owned by the Government. See: The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany http://schiller-wine.blogspot.de/2011/06/role-of-government-government-owned.html

Its origins date back to the Pforta Abbey, founded in 1137 also by Cistercian monks. Pforta Abbey soon had a reputation as the richest abbey in medieval Thüringen, with vineyard holdings in 192 communes, totaling at least 250 hectares. The vineyards were located on slopes above the Saale river.

During the period of reformation, Duke Moritz von Sachsen transformed the abbey into a college. Some of the vineyards were transferred to private growers, who had to share the yield with the Duke von Sachsen.

As a result of the Vienna Congress in 1814, the Kingdom of Sachsen lost Pforta to the Kingdom of Prussia. Prussia converted Pforta into a wine estate and wine research institute. After World War II, it became the socialist co-operative VEG Weinbau Naumburg in East-Germany, with 120 hectares of land. After the breakdown of the socialist system in East Germany in 1989, Pforta was in the hands of the privatization organization Treuhand for a couple of years, but not privatized and became the Landesweingut Kloster Pforta of the Federal State of Sachsen-Anhalt.

Pictures: At Weingut Kloster Pforta. See: Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

2016 Riesling, Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Rheinhessen

Picture: 2016 Riesling, Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Rheinhessen

Those who were at the JJPrüm winemaker dinner with "Herr Prüm" Wilhelm Steifensand (former owner of P. J. Valckenberg who recently married Katharina Prüm) at B Too a few weeks ago tasted the 2015 Weingut Liebfraustift Riesling dry. We had this wine again at the "Abbey Wines" tasting of the German Wine Society - Washington DC. Weingut Liebfraustift has become the home of Wilhelm Steifensand and Katharina Prüm, with their adorable baby. When Wilhelm Steifensand sold the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House, he kept its crwown jewel, Weingut Liebfraustift in Worms.

After the Dutch merchant Peter Joseph Valckenberg had founded the P.J.Valckenberg Wine Merchant House in 1786, 2 decades later in 1808, P. J. Valckenberg moved on to producing wine and established Weingut Liebfrauenstift, by buying the remaining part of the Capuchin Monastery Liebfrauenstift in Worms and most of the vineyards surrounding the Liebfrauenkirche in Worms, in the wake of secularization.

The Capuchin Monastery Liebfrauenstift and the gothic Liebfrauenkirche, which Capucin monks had build in the 1400s, had always been an important stopping point along the pilgrim route to Santiago di Compostela in north-west Spain. Pilgrims are said to have very much liked the wine produced by the monks and compared it to the “milk of Our Dear Lady” - thus Liebfraumilch was born!

Weingut Liebfrauenstift is located in Rheinessen, Germany. Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück is the centerpiece of the estate. In the fifteenth century, Capuchin monks from the Liebfrauenstift monastery started cultivating the famous Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück single vineyard site, which is now the centerpiece of this estate.

Four hundred years later, in 1808, Peter Joseph Valckenberg was able to purchase the monastery and a main portion of the vineyard when it was put up for sale by Napoleon. Current owner, Wilhelm Steifensand, a direct descendant of Peter Joseph Valckenberg, lives with his family in the former monastery and now owns the majority (90%) of Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück, from which all of the estate’s wines are grown. The estate is committed to continuing the grand heritage of this property and returning it to the prominence it once held. Historically, wines from this vineyard were so prized they garnered the same prices as First Growth Bordeaux.

Picture: The Liebfrauenkirche in Worms with Valckenberg's Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstueck. See: Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines

Pictures: Wilhelm Steifensand with Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller at BToo. See: JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Pictures: Tasting with Amei Prüm at Weingut JJ Prüm. See: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

2014 Riesling Goldtröpfchen GG, Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel

Picture: 2014 Riesling Goldtröpfchen GG, Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel

First documented in 1349, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is one of the most traditional estates in the Mosel region. The von Kesselstatt dynasty immigrated to the electorate of Trier in the 14th century.

Following secularization by Napoleon in 1802, the von Kesselstadt family purchased between 1854 and 1889 four monasteries of St. Maximin Abbey and their vineyard holdings.

Since 1983, Annegret Reh-Gartner’s has directed the estate, which her father Günther Reh acquired in 1978.

Today, the estate today cultivates 36 hectares of vineyard land, consecrated exclusively to Riesling. Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt is unique in that its vineyards are equally divided among the three river valleys that form the Mosel appellation: the Mosel River valley itself, and the valleys of its two contributories, the Saar and Ruwer Rivers.

Pictures: At Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt in Morscheid, Mosel with the late Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner and her Husband Gerhard Gartner, a former 2-star Michelin Chef. See:Lunch and Wine Tasting at Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in Morscheid, Mosel with Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

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Very First State Dinner at the Trump White House for French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte, USA/ France

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Picture: Very First State Dinner at the Trump White House for French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte (Photo: Der Spiegel)

The Trump White House hosted its very first state dinner for French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte on Tuesday, April 24, 2018. Donald Trump was the first president since Calvin Coolidge in the 1920s to end his first year in office without hosting a foreign leader on a state visit. The first visit of a ruling monarch for a dinner at the White House was in 1874 with King David Kalakaua of the Sandwich Islands as the honored guest. It wasn’t until President Dwight D. Eisenhower that the modern protocol of the State Dinner was established, with the visit of South Korea’s president in 1954.

The Setting

The colour scheme was cream and gold and the dinner service consisted of china used by the Bill Clinton and George W Bush administrations. A White House statement said: “The first lady chose the Bush china with the green color palette to complement the spring green and white flowers that will be featured in the state dining room.”  The china is by-partisan, even if the guest list isn't.

Pictures: The State Dining Room at the White House Set for the State Dinner (Photos: AP/ Manuel Balce Ceneta)

The Meal

The dinner consisted of only 3 courses. The meal was prepared by White House executive chef Cristeta Comerford.

The meal started with a goat cheese gateau with tomato jam, buttermilk biscuit crumbles, and lettuces from the White House garden.

The main course was a rack of spring lamb and Carolina gold rice jambalaya cooked in the tradition of New Orleans, a city founded by the French.

For dessert: a nectarine tart infused with White House honey and crème fraîche.

The Wines

Domaine Serene Chardonnay “Evenstad Reserve” 2015

The wine is the product of American and French collaboration — a combination of French plants from Dijon that thrive in the volcanic Oregon soil and colder temperatures. The wine was aged in 40 percent French oak barrels for more than 12 months.

Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2014

Picture: Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2014

This wine uses the motto “French soul–Oregon soil.” The grapes at Domaine Drouhin are harvested and sorted by hand and fermented in French Oak barrels.

Schramsberg Demi-Sec “Crémant” NV

Schramsberg Demi-Sec “Crémant” has been served in the White House for official and ceremonial events many times over the years. The subtle sweetness and creamy effervescence of the 2014 vintage is the perfect accompaniment for a nectarine tart.

Schramsberg: We are honored that the Schramsberg Cremant Demi-sec will be served this evening at the White House at the State Dinner for French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte. This marks the 36th time Schramsberg has been served at a U.S. state dinner and the 87th time at a U.S. state function since 1972 and the "Toast to Peace" in China.

Schramsberg – A Leading Sparkling Wine Producer Founded by a German

In 1826, in the small town of Pfeddersheim Germany, along the Rhine River, Jacob Schram was born. He came from a winemaking family. When he was sixteen, the young Schram immigrated to New York. He was educated in the trade of barbering, and in 1852 sailed across the Caribbean, crossed-over the Panama Isthmus, and continued up to San Francisco. He spent the next several years barbering, eventually moving his way north, to the Napa Valley.

In 1859 he married Annie Christine Weaver, also from Germany, and they started a family. For several years he continued to barber full time. Never far from his thoughts were his homeland and his roots in the vinelands of Germany. In 1862, Jacob purchased a large piece of land on the mountainsides of the Napa Valley. He was going to be a part of the emerging efforts by many fellow German countrymen in the Napa Valley to make wine; thus Schramsberg was born.

See: American Wines with German Roots

Entertainment

Entertainment was provided by the Washington National Opera from the Kennedy Center.

The Guest List

In a break with tradition, Trump did not invited Democratic members of Congress or journalists to the state dinner. There were around 150 guests in the state dining room – fewer than the hundreds of guests Barack Obama used to entertain in a tented pavilion erected on the south lawn.

Among those joining the main guests of honor were Apple CEO Tim Cook, who brought as his guest former Obama EPA Administrator Lisa Jackson, statesman Henry Kissinger, Chief Justice John Roberts, media mogul Rubert Murdoch, managing director of the IMF Christine Lagarde and the president's daughter and son-in-law Ivanka Trump and Jared Kushner.

Pictures: State Dinner at the Trump White House for French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte (Photos: Der Spiegel)

Comments by Jessica Sidman

Jessica Sidman, Washingtonian: When Trump has dined with world leaders in the past, the food has been more often an accommodation of his tastes than a gesture of diplomacy. At a dinner at Mar-a-Lago with Chinese President Xi Jinping last April, the menu included pan-seared Dover sole, dry-aged prime New York strip steak, and chocolate cake—Trump’s favorites. Was it a power move meant to assert dominance? A reinforcement of “America First” messaging? Or the President simply being selfish?

Usually world leaders go out of their way to appeal to likes and dislikes of their foreign guests, not the other way around. Japan Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, for example, took Trump for cheeseburgers during a visit to Tokyo last fall. (Tellingly, Trump was not once spotted with chopsticks during that 12-day, five-nation Asia tour.)

Perhaps because it’s an official, formal state dinner, the White House’s French fête showcases an understanding for the politics of food. There’s no steak and chocolate cake just because that’s what Trump likes. (We can’t imagine the President requesting his lamb with cipollini soubise.) Rather, the First Lady and her team have thoughtfully put together a menu that reflects the transatlantic partnership. That goes for the wine, too. The Chardonnay is made from French grapes aged in French oak barrels in Oregon, while a Pinot Noir uses the slogan “French soul, Oregon soil.”
The menu draws from red states.

Between the buttermilk biscuit crumbles and jambalaya, the dishes clearly have a little bit of a Southern undertone. Coincidence that Trump dominated the vote in that part of the country?
No celebrity chefs this time.

The Obama White House was a magnet for big food-world names. Restaurant industry titans like Rick Bayless, Marcus Samuelsson, Anita Lo, and Mario Batali all collaborated on state dinner menus. This time, White House executive chef Cristeta Comerford won’t be working with any celebrity chefs. It’s hard to imagine many who would jump at the opportunity, especially after the fallout between José Andrés—the unofficial godfather of DC dining—and Trump’s Pennsylvania Avenue hotel.

If the Trumps were going to choose any outside name to consult on the state dinner menu, it likely would have been Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The celebrity toque operates a French-American restaurant in Trump Tower, and also catered there the First Couple’s wedding. Then again, who needs a fancy restaurant chef? Trump calls the White House the “greatest restaurant” in DC.

Side Dinner in Paris and Washington DC

The evening before the state dinner, the Trumps and the Macrons had a private dinner at Mount Vernon on the banks of the Potomac river and visited the tomb of George Washington.

Last July, President Donald Trump and first lady Melania Trump dined with French President Emmanuel Macron and Brigitte Macron at their invitation inside the famous Le Jules Verne restaurant in the Eiffel Tower, with sweeping views of Paris laid out in front of them.

Picture: The Trumps and the Macrons at Mount Vernon and at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower on 13 July 2017 (Photos: President Macron and Kevin Lamarque/REUTERS)

3-day Program

Upon arrival on Monday, April 23, 2018, the two couples plant a tree, a gift from the Macrons, together on the south lawn. The sapling, a European sessile oak about 4.5ft tall, comes from Belleau Woods, where more than 9,000 American marines died in a first world war battle nearly 100 years ago.

Pictures: Arrival Ceremony at the White House (Pictures: CBSN and AFP)

In the evening, the Macrons took a tour of historic monuments in Washington DC, before going to Mount Vernon, where the Trumps and the Macrons had a private dinner on the banks of the Potomac river and visit the tomb of George Washington.

On Tuesday morning, President Trump and the First Lady hosted a state arrival ceremony on the south lawn including the traditional “review of the troops”. There were meetings and a joint press conference during the day.

President Macron also addressed a joint session of Congress on Wednesday.

Picture: Address to the Congress (Photo: Emmanuel Macron/ twitter)

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Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

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Picture: Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac is one of the most stunning estates in Bordeaux. It is currently owned by the insurance company AXA Millésimes.

We had a gorgeous wine lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron. This was preceeded by a vineyard and winery tour and a tasting. This posting covers the lunch. I already reported about the first part of the visit: Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Nicolas Santier, responsable du développement réceptif et tourisme, was our host. During the tour, we were welcomed by Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director.

Picture: Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac

Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Longueville Baron (often referred to as Pichon Baron) in Pauillac is one of 15 Deuxièmes Crus in the Classification of 1855. It was once part of a larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan, along with Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. In 1850 the estate was divided into the two current Pichon estates facing each other as one enters Pauillac along the D2 highway.

Château Pichon Baron stayed in the de Pichon-Longueville family until 1933 when the last surviving family member sold it to Jean Bouteiller, member of a family well-known in the Bordeaux wine scene. His heirs did not manage to keep the quality of the wines and in 1987 the estate was bought by AXA Millésimes. With the new owner, reconstruction of the fermenting room and cellars, and renovation of the château itself, began in 1988.

Pictures: With Jean-René Matignon, Technical Director, at the Sorting Table

Excellent terroir across from the 1st growth Latour property, stretching south bordering the Léoville estates in Saint-Julien gives the wines elegance, balance, and finesse. Château Pichon Baron's 73 hectares are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (35%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then macerated for 20-30 days, and fermented at 28-32 °C in temperature controlled stainless steel vats of varying sizes. The wine is transferred into oak barrels for aging after finishing its malolactic fermentation.

The estate also produces a second wine, Les Tourelles de Longueville. Les Griffons de Pichon Baron is the estate's latest addition.

The property is currently managed by Christian Seely.

Pictures: In the Cellar of  Château Pichon Longueville Baron

The AXA Wine Portfolio

Château Pichon Baron, 2nd Cru Classé Pauillac, France
Château Suduiraut, 1er Cru Classé Sauternes, France
Château Petit-Village, Pomerol, France
Château Pibran, Pauillac, France
Domaine de l’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges, France
Domaine Disznókö, Tokaj, Hongrie
Quinta do Noval, Douro, Portugal
AXA also owns one of the larger Bordeaux wine negociant companies, Compagnie Medocaine.

Tasting

We tasted all 3 wines. The 2016 and 2015 vintages were from barrel, the others from bottle. I have put the wine searcher average prices in US$.in brackets.

Pictures: Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac

2016 Les Griffons De Pichon Baron US$49
2016 Les Tourelles de Longueville US$42
2016 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$161
2015 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$160
2010 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$234
2009 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$209

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron

Following the tour and tasting, we walked over to the chateau for lunch.

Picture: Walking over to the Château

Champagne Reception

We started off with a Champagne reception in the private rooms of Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron.

Pictures: Champagne Reception

Lunch

We than proceed for lunch to the dining room.

Pictures: Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Lunch Wines

I have added the wine-searcher average prices in US$.

NV Champagne Agrapart&Fils Terroir Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut US$65

2014 S de Suduiraut US$39


2006 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$136
2004 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$139
1990 Château Pichon Longueville Baron US$354


2010 Château de Suduiraut 1er Cru Classé Sauternes US$82


Bye-bye

Thanks Nicolas Santier for a wonderful lunch.

Pictures: Bye-bye.

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Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2017

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Picture: The Winners of the Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2017 - Maximilian von Kunow, Weingut von Hövel, Amelie von Schubert, Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, and Franz-Josef Eifel, Weingut Franz-Josef Eifel (Photo: Feinschmecker/ Facebook)

The results of the Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2017 - Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings - were published in the February 2018 issue of Der Feinschmecker, Germany's leading gourmet journal.

Der Feinschmecker: The Riesling Cup 2017 goes to the winery Franz-Josef Eifel (Mosel) for the 2016 Trittenheimer Apotheke Alte Reben Riesling trocken and the winery Maximin Grünhaus (Mosel/ Ruwer) for the 2016 Abstberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs - because of equality of points both wineries share first place. In third place follows the winery von Hövel (Mosel/ Saar) with the 2016 Saar Riesling trocken. Congratulations!

Picture: Feinschmecker Riesling Cup

The Award Ceremony - Feinschmecker-Gala des Rieslings - took place in the Grandhotel Bayerischer Hof in Munich on November 18, 2017.

Picture: Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2017 Award Ceremony in Munich

Dry Riesling in Germany

There are approximately 47,000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany—with 22,500 hectares—accounts for about half of the total. From a global perspective, Riesling is a niche grape variety, accounting for less than 1% of world wine production. From a global perspective, it is the fruity-sweet style (with the fermentation stopped so that the wine remains sweet and the level of alcohol low) and the rare noble-sweet style (lusciously sweet wines due to noble rot or frost in the vineyard) that are receiving the attention of the connoisseurs of premium wines.

Pictures: Cellar Visit, Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, with Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dry Riesling has played a minor role in the world of wine, but this is changing. The Rieslings from Alsace and Austria, both considerably smaller producers of Riesling than Germany (Alsace produces approximately 15% and Austria approximately 7% of what Germany produces), have always been in the dry category (although the Rieslings from Alsace have shown a trend toward an increasing level of remaining sweetness in the wine over the past decades), and, importantly, Germany, the dominating Riesling force in the world, has undergone a major trans-formation in the past 40 years: The fruity-sweet Rieslings have been crowded out from the wine lists in Germany, while the “dry wave”—“Trockenwelle”—has swept the country. When you go to a wine bar, wine store, or restaurant in say Frankfurt, Berlin, or Munich, it is very difficult to find a fruity-sweet Riesling. The wine lists are dominated by dry Riesling.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Max von Kunow, Johannes Hasselbach, Alwin Jurtschitsch and Christian G.E. Schiller at BToo. See:Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, USA/Germany

Pictures: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

The Top 15 Wines

01 2016 Trittenheimer Apotheke Alte Reben Riesling trocken Franz-Josef Eifel (Mosel) Euro 18
01 2016 Abstberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs Maximin Grünhaus (Mosel/ Ruwer) Euro 27,90

03 2016 Saar Riesling trocken von Hövel (Mosel/ Saar) Euro 10,80

04 2016 Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Spätlese trocken Jul. Ferd. Kimich (Pfalz) Euro12,30
04 2016 Blauschiefer Riesling trocken Dr. Loosen (Mosel) Euro 10.60

06 2016 Chara*** Riesling trocken Alexander Laible (Baden) Euro 15

07 2016 Alte Reben Riesling Spätlese trocken Karthäuserhof (Mosel/ Ruwer) Euro 15,90
07 2016 Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling trocken Korrell (Nahe) Euro 18
07 2016 Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Grosses Gewächs Schloss Saarstein (Mosel/ Saar) Euro 28,50
07 2016 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken Robert Weil (Rheingau) Euro 25,94

11 2016 Maximin Herrenberg Erste Lage Riesling trocken Carl Loewen (Mosel) Euro 19,90

12 2016 Steeger St. Jost Erste Lage Riesling trocken Toni Jost (Mittelrhein) Euro 14

13 2016 Rosengewächs Riesling trocken August Kesseler (Rheingau) Euro 30
13 2016 Oberhäuser Kieselberg Riesling Spätlese trocken Sitzius (Nahe) Euro 7,80

15 2016 Lorcher Pfaffenwies Riesling Erstes Gewächs Altenkirch (Rheingau) Euro 19,50
15 2016 Kaseler Nieschen Auf den Mauern Riesling Grosses Gewächs Erben von Beulwitz (Mosel/ Ruwer) Euro 19,50

Pictures: The 15 Riesling Cup 2017 Wines in Der Feinschmecker, Heft 2, Februar 2018

Previous Feinschmecker Riesling Cup Winners

For previous years, see on schiller-wine:

Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings - Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2015: Dönnhoff Rules! The Nahe Rules!
Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2014
Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2013
Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Best Dry Rieslings - Feinschmecker Riesling Cup 2011
The 11 Top German Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker German Riesling Cup 2010 (Vintage 2009)
The 13 Top German Dry Rieslings – Feinschmecker German Riesling Cup 2009 (Vintage 2008)
Riesling Cup 2009 - Germany's Top Dry 2007 Rieslings

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

Cellar Visit, Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, with Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, USA/Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

UPCOMING Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: May1, 2018)

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Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller in Bordeaux

Below is a list of the wine tours, wine dinners and wine tastings planned by Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine for the coming months.

For questions concerning the ombiasy wine tours please consult the ombiasy website.

For all other events please send me (cschiller@schiller-wine.com) or Annette (aschiller@ombiasypr.com) an e-mail.

May 2018

Washington DC, Monday, May 7: Winemaker Dinner with Sofia Gorse of Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé at Restaurant 2941 Fairview Park Dr, Falls Church, VA 22042. See: Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel and Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

Washington DC, Tuesday May 8: Winemaker Dinner with Diana Paulin of Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé at Restaurant BToo in Washington DC. See: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, and Chef Dieter Samyn at BToo in Washington DC, USA and Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

Germany and Alsace, May 12 - May 20: 2018 Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: ombiasy WineTours and UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

June 2018

Germany, June 12 - June 21: 2018 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: ombiasy WineTours and UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

July 2018

August 2018

McLean, Virginia, August: Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in McLean. See: Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2017)

September 2018

Frankfurt, Germany, September: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt - Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2017. See: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Bordeaux, France, September 4 - 13: 2018 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: ombiasy WineTours and UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Bourgogne, France, September 20 - 30: 2018 Burgundy Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: ombiasy WineTours and UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

October 2018

Rhône Valley, France, October 15 - 24: 2018 Rhône Valley Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: ombiasy WineTours and UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Washington DC, Friday October 26: German Wine Basics - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

November 2018

Buffalo, New York State, November 1 - 4: Germany, Burgundy and Alsace Tastings at the National Conference of the American Wine Society led by Annette Schiller. See: American Wine Society and The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Session 1: A Journey through the Rhône Valley
Session 2: "Abbey Wines": The Importance of the Monasteries for the Development of Viticulture
Session 3: Pinot Noir in Burgundy/ France and Germany

Washington DC, Tuesday, November 6: German Wines in the 21st Century - Tasting at the Washington DC Wine and Cheese Seminar, led by Annette Schiller

Washington DC, Friday, November 16: Wine Tasting with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter). See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

December 2018

January 2019

Frankfurt, Germany: Tasting Aged American Red Wines (Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot)


schiller-wine: Related Postings

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, and Chef Dieter Samyn at BToo in Washington DC, USA

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2017)

Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France  

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Pictures: Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, Sauternes,  Première Grand Cru Classé en 1855

On the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasyPR&WineTours we always visit one producer in the Sauternes Region. This time it was Château Climens.

We had arranged this visit at the National Conference of the American Wine Society 2016: Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens & Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist, at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles

Picures: Bérénice Lurton, Château Climens, Pouring and at the ombiasy WineTours Booth of Annette Schiller at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California. See: The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Château Climens

The estate was founded in 1547 by Guirault Roborel. In 1855, in the year Château Climens was classified a Premier Cru, Henri Gounouilhou, owner of an influential Bordeaux daily newspaper, bought the property. He used his influence in the media to boost the public’s recognition of Château Climens. Additionallly, Henri Gounouilhou improved the quality of the Climens wines to such a degree that Château Climens for some years challenged Château d'Yquem as the top estate in Sauternes. The vintages 1929, 1947 and 1949 were described by Alexis Lichine to surpass Château d'Yquem as "lighter, with less vinosity and body, yet miraculously subtle."

Pictures: Arriving at Château Climens

In 1971, Lucien Lurton bought the estate, along with Château Doisy-Dubroca. It has been run by his daughter, Bérénice Lurton, since 1992. The Lurton family has done a wonderful job, continuing to improve on the already excellent quality reached under Gouonouilhou’s ownership. One specific step taken by the Lurton family was to remove all Muscadelle vines. Thus, today the 30 hectare estate is composed of 100% Semillon, unlike most Sauternes estates that incorporate a small portion of Sauvignon Blanc. There is one only vineyard and it is unchanged since growing of grapes started in the 16th century.

Château Climens also produces a second wine named Cypres de Climens. Château Climens is located in the south of the Barsac appellation, just outside the small village of La Pinesse.

Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château Climens

Winemaking

The poor limestone soil and damp morning weather is exactly how the estate got its name. When Climens is translated from the local dialect, it means unfertile, poor land.

The average age of the vines is 35 years. Yields are low, averaging 12 hectoliters per hectare. In some years the yield can drop as low as 8 hectoliters per hectare. This makes for an intensely aromatic and concentrated wine.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Climens

During the entire harvest period each day’s harvest is sent to the winery where it will be vinified separately. The fermentation is controlled at 27 degrees Celsius and will last between 15 and 21 days. Once the ideal level of alcohol is reached (13.5%), the wine receives a thermal shock, quickly dropping the temperature down to 3 degrees Celsius, which halts the fermentation. The wine is then sent to barrel where it will be aged in 30% new oak. After 22 months of aging, the tasting team will taste all the individual wines and decide on two separate blends. The first and superior blend will be destined for the first label, Château Climens. The second tier blend, although still high in quality, will be bottled as the second label, Cyprès de Climens. About 30,000 bottles of the first label are produced and between 10,000 and 15,000 bottles of the second label.

Noble Rot

At Château Climens the mornings are humid with fog and the afternoons are sunny. This provides the perfect conditions for the development of the botrytis cinerea. In order for all of the botrytised grapes to be harvested, the estate will conduct between 5 and 6 runs through the vineyard, each lasting 3 to 8 days, to ensure that only the botrytis infected grapes are picked.

Picture: Noble Rot

Biodynamic

Château Climens is the first classified noble-sweet wine estate in Bordeaux to go biodynamic, with the assistance of Jean-Michel and Corinne Comme, who also consult for Château Pontet-Canet. Château Climens is aiming to be certified iodynamic in 2014.

Bérénice Lurton: “I believe passionately that biodynamics is the right way for us to go. We want to go back to our roots at Climens and help our wines find their own balance. Biodynamics brings life and vibrancy to the wines.”

Biodynamics can be difficult in the Bordeaux region. It is not the warmest area and there is a large amount of humidity from the Atlantic Ocean as well as the large rivers. So various vineyard problems have to be treated such as mildew and millederange.

Pictures: Drying Horsetail, Bracken, Bay Leaves and other Plants for Biodynamic Treatment

Tasting

During the tasting Bérénice Lurton, with a combination of charm and knowledge, conveyed the philosophy of Château Climens, seeking to create wines which reflect the terroir from which they are produced, and the desire of Château Climens to produce, above all, wines of elegance and finesse rather than sweet wines of power and weight.

Pictures: Tasting Lurton at Château Climens

2011 Cyprès de Climens US$51

2008 Château Climens US$99

Elegant, floral scented Climens with a gentle texture and lightness on the palate. Fresh and lifted and much earlier drinking than the 2009 and 2010. Tasted in: Bordeaux, France. Maturity: Drink. 90/100 Jeannie Cho Lee Tasted: 04-Jan-2014

2005 Château Climens US$122

Tasted blind at the 10-Year On Tasting in Sauternes. The 2005 Château Climens just soars from the glass with layers of clear honey, marmalade, nectarine and minerals all beautifully carved. The palate is medium-bodied with fresh, vibrant honeyed fruit that builds and builds in the mouth in tandem with a killer line of acidity. Even though it is a convincing, great Climens, you also have the impression that it is only just beginning to show what it is capable of. Bérénice Lurton and her team excelled in this vintage and it comes strongly recommended! 97/100 Neil Martin eRobertParker.com #219 Jun 2015

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller with Bérénice Lurton at Château Climens. See: Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Bye-bye

Pictures: Bye-bye

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Tour at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France   
 

Falstaff Newcomer of the Year 2018: Angelina and Kilian Franzen of Weingut Franzen in Bremm/ Mosel

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Picture: Angelina and Kilian Franzen of Weingut Franzen in Bremm/ Mosel Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

Falstaff Newcomer of the Year: Weingut Franzen, Mosel

Weingut Franzen, owned by Angelina and Kilian Franzen, is in the village of Bremm in the Mosel valley. The vineyard area totals 10 hectares, mostly on very steep slopes, with holdings in the Calmont (Bremm) and Frauenberg (Neef) sites. Riesling accounts for 80% and Pinot Blanc for 10%. Primarily dry wines have been produced here since 1980. When botrytised grapes with a must weight of at least 100 °Oechsle are available, these are used to produce high-quality sweet Auslese wines. The Riesling wines are matured exclusively in stainless steel tanks, while the Pinot varieties are matured in barriques. Natural yeasts were used exclusively for the first time in the 2003 vintage, and none of the wines are fined. The estate is a member of the Bernkasteler Ring and of the Vereinigung Winzer an der Terrassenmosel.

Picture: The Nominees - Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018, with Ursula Haslauer and Ulrich Sauter (both Falstaff) Photo: Falstaff/ Alois Müller

US Importer: Schatzi Wines

Schatzi Wines: Franzen is exactly in between Winningen where Knebel is, and Bernkastel in the Middle Mosel, but the estate is still part of the Mosel Terraces. This is a young family working the steepest site in all of Europe, the Bremmer Calmont. The estate is run by Kilian and Angelina Franzen, both in their 20s. Kilian’s father, Ulrich, had a dream to restore and replant the Bremmer Calmont, which had fallen down over the decades. In the 1800s, the entire Calmont was planted with riesling, but over time, younger generations did not want to work in the steep sites and gave up the vineyards. By 1980, the only vineyards left on the Calmont were vineyards down by the road along the Mosel and the entire mountain was covered in roses and wild vines. In 1999, Ulrich decided to start buying up as much Calmont as he could. He had to research the town records to figure out who owned which piece and over the course of three years, he was able to purchase 112 contiguous parcels, from 112 different owners from Australia to China to the US. This gave him 1.2 ha in the heart of the Calmont, an amphitheater-shaped section near the center of the mountain, facing south. Kilian and Angelina make nearly all dry wine, but they made a kabinett for the first time in the 2015 vintage (it is in stock now). They have 5.8 ha in the Calmont, but also a few hectares in the Neefer Frauenberg, which is also a great site, though less dramatic. The grapes are crushed by feet in large boxes and macerated for 2-4 hours. Then they are pressed, and settled for 12 hours prior to fermentation. All ambient yeast ferments here, and nearly all the wines go through malo.

Picture: Kilian Franzen with Annette Schiller at the 2017 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach. See: Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Mosel Fine Wines: Weingut Franzen

Mosel Fine Wines: One of the highlights of this year’s Auction by the Bernkasteler Ring was undoubtedly the 2015er Bremmer Calmont Kabinett by Weingut Reinhold Franzen. Not only is it a gorgeously well-balanced Kabinett, but it proved an absolute bargain as it went for €13* per bottle!

The Weingut Reinhold Franzen has become a household name for delicately intense but still hugely elegant dry Riesling from its coveted holdings in the Bremmer Calmont and Neefer Frauenberg. We highlighted their superb 2013er Bremmer Calmont Riesling GK GG, one of the finest dry Mosel Riesling in 2013, as wine of the month last year.

So how come that we now put forward a Kabinett by this Estate? When asking Kilian Franzen, who has been at the helm of this Estate together with his wife Angelina since 2012, he simply laughed: “Yes, you may be surprised … because we were too! In fact, this tank of Bremmer Calmont simply stopped its fermentation at just above 50 g/l of residual sugar. We could have tampered with the wine, inoculate it with other tanks, etc. But this is not the way that we want to do things. So we waited and eventually cleared and filtered it as it was. And Ta-Da, there you have our first Kabinett. And you know what? Angelina and I both love it!”

The wine came from the upper part of “their” part of the Bremmer Calmont, the allegedly steepest vineyard in Europe. Their sector is called Fachkaul (pictured here below) and was classified in the highest categories on the Prussian Taxation map in the 19th century.

The Bremmer Calmont is so steep that one can only work it with the help of a monorail track. Around 2000, Kilian’s father Ulrich Franzen, who tragically died in a vineyard accident in 2010, decided to go against the flow. Instead of expanding in “easy to tend” vineyards, he decide to revive part of the super-steep original Calmont. He painstakingly consolidated a 1.5 ha vineyard in the Fachkaul ... by acquiring no less than 112 different parcels! This allowed him to revive the vineyard and, at the same time, to justify the investment into a monorail track to make it economically viable.

Today, Kilian and Angelina Franzen reap the benefits from so much foresight. They were able to harvest this 2015er Kabinett at a low 85° Oechsle in the upper and cooler part of the Fachkaul. This Kabinett proves simply delightful as it is packed with flavors yet retains true Kabinett style. The sweetness is there but already beautifully mingling with the dry extracts and the acidity.

We adore their dry wines and would hate seeing less being produced. But this Kabinett would be a very good reason to do so!

The German Portfolio of Schatzi Wines

The German Portfolio of Schatzi Wines comprises currently 10 producers. Six of them, we have already visited on an ombiasy tour or will visit later this year.

Benedikt Baltes - We will visit Weingut Benedikt Baltes on the forthcoming Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Dr. Heger - See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dreissigacker - See: Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Franzen

Heinrich Spindler

Julia Bertram - See: The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

Karl Haidle - We will visit Weingut Karl Haidle on the forthcoming Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See: Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Knebel

Leitz - See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

von Hövel - See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies

For the eightth time, the Falstaff Trophies Deutschland were awarded. The wine/food/travel journal Falstaff has been around for a number of years, issued in Vienna, Austria, and reporting about wine, food and travel from an Austrian perspective, for Austria-based readers. Seven years ago, Falstaff expanded into the German wine and food scene and started to issue a German version of Falstaff in addition to the well established Austrian version. As part of its expansion, Falstaff has created the annual Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies, to be awarded to German wine personalities.

For previous years, see:

Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2017
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2016
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2015
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2014
Best German Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2013
Best German Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2012
Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2011

Picture: Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

Best German Winemakers: Falstaff Wine Trophies 2018

Sebastian Fürst of Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Franken, is Falstaff Winemaker of the Year 2018, Germany

Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours




Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: Annette Schiller with Ralph Doerfler and his Parents

About an hour away by car from Bordeaux City is the Bassin d'Arcachon. The Bassin d’Arcachon is one of the most beautiful regions in France. This region is a perfect mix of the earthy traditions of the Landes region and the seaside joys of the Atlantic coast of France. It has a special atmosphere with stunning landscapes and culinary traditions.

On the Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, for the first time, we spent a night at the Bassin d'Arcachon.

We started that day in Saint-Emilion. We drove through the rolling hills of the “Entre Deux Mers” wine region to the Sauternes region to visit Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé. We had lunch at  the 1-Michelin starred Restaurant Claude Darroze, followed by a visit of Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave. We left at 4:30pm to drive to Arcachon, where we had dinner and stayed overnight. The next morning we took the ferry to the other side of the Bay d’Arcachon to arrive in Cap Ferret, the little oyster farm town on the tip of the strip of land that shelters the Bassin d’Arcachon from the open waters of the Atlantic. Our bus and driver was waiting for us in Cap Ferret and took us to Grand-Piquey, where we visited the Earl Ostrea Chanca oyster farm of Ralph Doerfler, including oyster tasting. We had lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. During lunch we could watch the water to recede and the oyster banks to emerge. Some of us walked to the oyster banks after lunch to take a closer look. At 4:00, we left Cap Ferret and drove to Margaux, were we had dinner and stayed overnight at the Hotel Relais de Margaux.

This posting covers in detail the visit of  the Earl Ostrea Chanca oyster farm of Ralph Doerfler, including oyster tasting.

The Bassin d'Arcachon

The Bassin d'Arcachon is a bay of the Atlantic Ocean on the southwest coast of France, located just a few kilometres away from Bordeaux. The bay covers an area of 150 km² at high tide and 40 km² at low tide. Just south of the entrance is the Great Dune of Pyla. Nearly in the middle of the bay is a very particular island: L'île aux Oiseaux (Isle of the Birds).

Cap Ferret is a narrow strip of land between the Bay of Arcachon and the Atlantic Ocean where numerous no frills wooden oyster shacks line the beach (cabanes de pecheurs). The menu simply lists different kinds of oysters and their prices. It’s here that a large part of France’s 130,000-ton oyster harvest is produced. Cap Ferret is a fishing village with numerous oyster and seafood places.

Pictures: The Bassin d'Arcachon

Raphael Doerfler, Earl Ostrea Chanca

We visited Raphael Doerfler in Grand Piquey. He explained to us his oyster farming operation, followed by an oyster tasting.

Raphael Doerfler
Earl Ostrea Chanca
Cabane 22
54 allee du Grand piquey
33950 Lege Cap-Ferret
ostreachanca@orange.fr

Pictures: Earl Ostrea Chanca, Cabane 22, 54 allee du Grand piquey, 33950 Lege Cap-Ferret

Oysters in the World

I distinguish 4 types of oysters.

The Pacific

Originally from Japan, the Pacific or Japanese oyster is the most widely cultured oyster in the world. It accounts for 75% of world production. In France, it has crowded out the Belon and now accounts for 99% of oyster production there. Gone are the days of the Belon in Paris. The Pacific oysters are marketed under a variety of names, often denoting their growing area. The Kumamoto is one of the most famous Pacific oysters. I tend to think of a Pacific oyster as a creamy oyster, with a mineral note.

Pictures: Arriving

The Olympia

The Olympia is a very small oyster seldom exceeding 2 inches. For comparison, in Massachusetts, oysters must be a minimum of 3 inches to be sold. Olympia is a native American oyster, which once flourished on the West Coast, before the Pacific took over. Olympias are hard to find today as they grow very slowly and are difficult to transport. They hold very little liquid and dry out quickly. The Olympia has a very full flavor with a distinct aftertaste.

The Atlantic

Another American native, there are many varieties of Atlantic oysters, such as the Malpeque from Prince Edward Island in Canada and the Blue Point from Long Island in New York State. Bluepoints were originally named for Blue Point, Long Island but now the term is generally applied to any Atlantic oyster two four inches long. These two are now the most common restaurant oysters in the US. Also called Eastern oyster, the Atlantic has a thick, elongated shell that ranges from 2 to 5 inches across. It's found along the Atlantic seaboard and the Gulf of Mexico in the US.

The Belon

The Belon, or European Flat, is Europe’s native oyster. The Belons are round and shallow. That’s why they are called Flats. They are also not very liquid and dry out fast. They have a long history. They used to grow in Brittany, Normandy, England, Spain, Holland, Greece and the Black See. But a disease is wiping them out worldwide. The Flats from the Belon river in Brittany were at some point the connoisseur’s top choice and the name was soon adopted by all oyster growers, a bit like the Blue Points from Long Island. The Belon oyster grows in limited quantity in Maine on the rocks of the Damariscotta river bed.

See:
Schiller's World of Seafood
Oysters and Wine

Pictures: Touring

An Oyster’s Life Story

Raphael Doerfler explained to us in detail how an oyster is produced. The World of Oysters Blog has a nice write-up of this subject (on November29, 2006), which I am copying.

“Hello, my name is Fine de Claire. I was born in the estuary of the Seudre on the Atlantic coast. I never knew my parents. My friends explained, that they don’t know their parents either. Now I know why: my mother ejected millions of eggs in the water, my father millions of sperms; one egg and one sperm found together and I’m the result of that meeting. I understand that my parents couldn’t manage raising so many children. After a few months my foster-father found me in the cold water and decided to pick me up.

Pictures: At the Bay

He put me in a net with others of my size and he laid us down on benches in the sea. Every time the tide was going out I was out of water during a few hours. Then the water came back and I filtered the fresh water in my gills so that I could catch plankton. In one hour I was able to filter up to 5 liters. At my first birthday I developed the ability to produce sperms on my own. In May, June, Jule and August, when the temperature of the water had risen I ejected my sperms in the hope they would conquer the eggs of the nice looking female next to me. In my second year on the bench I experienced a weird transformation. I became a female and my darling became a male. This change of sexes was possible because we are Hermaphrodites and we adept to the circumstances of our environment. That means, if we could capture sufficiently plankton so we have the energy to produce eggs we become women. Otherwise we are forced to be man. In my third year my foster-father came back to collect me and my friends. He said, that we had grown enough (8-14 cm long) and that we would receive a purification in another location. I asked myself why, because we felt very well in the brackish water and I still wanted to father many descendants with my partner(s) during the next 20 or 30 summers that we were still supposed to live. Against our will, we were placed into basins that had been dug out artificially and that were filled constantly with a mixture of sea and freshwater. There I became green because of a special alga that was in the water. After a few weeks we were taken out of the nets and put into different boxes according to our size. During the next days everything went very fast. We were washed and brushed, put into baskets, made a journey in a truck, and arrived at the market of La Rochelle. I became thirsty because I was out of water since 2 days. Finally 3 young boys came and chose me and 11 friends of mine.”

Pictures: Oyster Tasting

Oysters in France

99% of all oysters produced in France today are Pacific oysters, referred to in the French market as "Huître creuse" or simply as "Creuses". Another colloquial name for the Pacific oyster is "Japonaise". The Belon oyster, the classic oyster of France, which is hard to find, is called "Huître plate" or simply "Plate". The French oyster business traditionally starts booming between Christmas and New Year's Day. About 50% of the annual oyster production is consumed during this time.

From North to South there are seven distinct growing regions in France: Normandy, North-Brittany, South-Brittany, West-Central, Marennes-Oléron, Arcachon, and the Mediterranean. Although some of these areas are far more famous than others, they all produce excellent oysters.

L'Affinage en Claires

The Bassin de Marennes-Oléron in the Poitou-Charentes region has been famed for its oyster production since Roman times, thanks in large part to the claire oysters, reared in the shallow claires (oyster beds) set in to the coastline, which allows a more rounded mineral flavor to develop.

More than 80% of all the "claire refined" oysters in France come from the Bassin de Marennes-Oléron. Oysters that have not spent any time in claires are called huîtres de parc (park oysters). They originate directly from the growing areas right by the ocean. These oysters have a typical ocean flavor, which many oyster lovers simply love.

The claire refined oysters have not only spent a varying amount of time in claires, but also in varying oyster population densities. The shallow brackish water in these claires is very rich in phytoplankton, microscopic algae, the favorite food of oysters. The shallow brackish water also changes the "oceany" taste of the typical park oysters over by the sea to a more sweetish, aromatic, and rich flavor.

Oysters that were cared for in claires have special names. There are four varieties: pousses en claire, which are grown entirely in the claires from naissins (new-borns), and - in descending price order - fines de claires vertes, spéciales de claires and fines de claires, which are all matured in the claires for varying times.

Fines de claires have been refined for about a month in claires; about 30 to 40 oysters will share a space of one square meter.

Spéciales de claires have spent about two to four months in claires; only about 5 to 10 oysters share an area of one square meter.

Fines de claires vertes come into contact with navicule bleue algae, which give the oyster’s yellow gills their distinctive green tint.

Arcachon

The Arcachon basin produced wild oysters in ancient times. Today it has become an important breeding center, supplying spats (oyster larvae) to most of France's oyster-farming basins. Thus, the oyster industry of Arcachon is two-fold: growing oysters for the market and growing seed oysters for oyster growers elsewhere. The Arcachon basin and Marennes-Oléron region are the only regions in France where oysters reproduce naturally – in all other areas, young oysters are brought in from these two regions.

The flavors of oysters found around Arcachon range from the aroma of fresh vegetables and citrus fruit of Cap-Ferret oysters, to the rather sweet milkiness of those from the Arguin sandbank, to the vegetal/mineral tang of those from the Ile aux Oiseaux.

Those from the Ile aux Oiseaux owe their reputation to the plankton they consume during their fattening phase and to their greenish color acquired in claires, as in Marennes-Oléron.

Generally, many growers of Arcachon improve their oysters in a form of claire, which serves to cleanse the oysters of any impurities and keep them fresh.

Pictures: Shucking Oysters during a Previous Visit

Calibres

French Oysters are classified and sold depending on the size and weight. Pacific oysters and European oysters are rated differently:

Pacific oysters:

5 - "P": Petit (small)
4 and 3 - "M": Moyen (medium)
2 - "G": Grand (large)
1 and 0 - "TG": Très Grand (very large)

European oysters:

4 - "P": Petit (small)
3,2, and 1 - "M": Moyen (medium)
0 - "G": Grand (large)
00 - "TG": Très Grand (very large)

Pictures: French Oysters are Classified and Sold Depending on the Size and Weight

Oyster Banks

We did not really see the oyster banks when we visited Raphael Doerfler in Grand Piquey. But a couple of hours later during lunch at the Pinasse Café, we had a gorgious view of the oyster banks in front of Pinasse Café. We could go there when the water receded.

Pictures: At the Oyster Banks

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Tour at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France




Top 10: German Spätburgunder/ Pinot Noir 2015 - Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

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Picture: Stephan Knipser, Weingut Knipser, and Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst, with Christian Schiller in Mainz/ Germany. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Red Wine Revolution in Germany

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Jancis Robinson on the Rise of German Pinot Noir (Financial Times)

A couple of days ago, Jancis Robinson released an article in the Financial Times on the rise of Pinot Noir in Germany. For the full article, go here. Below you find the first few chapters of Jancis' article:

Which countries grow the most Pinot Noir, the red burgundy grape? Not surprisingly, France wins gold in this particular championship, its total vastly boosted by the amount of Pinot Noir grown in Champagne. And thanks to the 2004 film Sideways, American demand for the grape has soared so much that the US takes silver.

But the bronze medal for growing Pinot Noir nowadays goes to Germany. Just one German region, Baden in the south-west, grows about as much Pinot Noir as the world’s fourth most important Pinot grower, New Zealand.

Partly thanks to warmer summers, and partly because of German consumers’ increasing partiality for red wine, Germany’s total area of Pinot Noir vines almost doubled in the 20 years to 2006. This total, encompassing a great mix of different clones and varied soils, has since remained fairly stable at about a third of all German vineyards.

Such is German enthusiasm for their Spätburgunder, as Pinot Noir is known there, that we don’t see huge quantities on export markets, but I seize every opportunity I can to taste it, because it seems to me that the average quality has risen enormously over the past five to 10 years. And, while Spätburgunders from renowned producers are rarely cheap, burgundy prices are now almost ludicrously high, so alternatives to red burgundy have become increasingly attractive.

Top 10: German Spätburgunder/ Pinot Noir 2015 - Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

96 Points

Weingut Knipser/ Pfalz RdP Barrique 96 Points
Weingut Rudolf Fürst/ Franken Bürgstadter Hundsrück Grosses Gewächs GG 96 Points Euro 108
Weingut Bernhard Huber/ Baden Malterdinger Wildenstein Grosses Gewächs  GG 96 Points Euro 49

Pictures: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

95 Points

Weingut Rudolf Fürst/Franken Klingenberger Schlossberg Grosses Gewächs GG 95 Points Euro 67
Weingut Bernhard Huber/Baden Hecklinger Schlossberg Grosses Gewächs  GG 95 Points Euro 59

Pictures:Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, Sebastian Fürst and Christian Schiller at Weingut Rudolf Fürst. See: Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Joel B. Payne and Sebastian Fürst at the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Award Ceremony. See: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

94 Points

Weingut Knipser/ Pfalz Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad 94 Points
Weingut Koch/ Palz Hainfelder Letten Grande Réserve BK 94 Points Euro 50
Weingut Uli Metzger/Pfalz Arthos  Euro 38
Weingut Bernhard Huber/Baden Malterdinger Bienenberg Grosses Gewächs GG 94 Points Euro 44
Weingut Jean Stodden/ Ahr Lange Goldkapsel 94 Points Euro 85

Pictures: Tasting with Alexander Stodden, Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr. See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released on Friday, November 24, 2017. I participated in the presentation of the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 in Mainz, Germany. The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 is at the same time a new and an old German wine guide.

Picture: Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

2 days after the publication of the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, on Monday, November 27, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released. The Gault Millau WeinGuide 2018 was published by Zabert + Sandmann, which had aquired the license for the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland in June 2017 from the Christian Verlag. The latter had published the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland for many years.

The Gault MillauWeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather by a newly established team of tasters, all of them highly regarded, led by Editor-in-Chief Britta Wiegelmann. Previously, she was Editor-in-Chief of the Vinum Wine Journal. She took over the position from Joel B. Payne, who had been the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Editor-in-Chief (earlier with Armin Diel) since it was first published in 1994.

Joel B. Payne - along with his Deputy Carsten S. Henn - stayed with the Christian Verlag, managed to bring on board the Vinum Journal and decided to continue publishing a wine guide under a new name: The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland was borne.

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather Joel B. Payne, Editor-in-Chief, and Carsten Henn, Deputy Editor-in-Chief, with the same team that put togather and rated the wines and winemakers of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017, published 12 months ago. The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 looks very much like the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 except for the color of the cover, which is red and no longer green. Also, the winemakers do not receive 1 to 5 grapes anymore but 1 to 5 stars.

Joel B. Payne made clear that he sees the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 as an update of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 and in a row with the previous 24 issues of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland, the production of which he led as Editor-in-Chief. Red is now the new Green, said Joel B. Payne at the presentation of the Vinum Weinguide Deutschland 2018 (which is red), while the cover of the Gault Millau Millau WeinGuide Deutschland has been green during the past 24 years and continues to be green.

Picture: Joel B. Payne Being Interviewed

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland  2018 reviews on about 1000 pages more than 12.000 wines of 1000 wineries. Its rating symbol is a star and Germany’s best winemakers are awarded one to five stars. The wines are rated on the 1 to 100 scale.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA
Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

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Winemaker Dinner with Sebastian Fürst, Weingut Fürst, Franken, at Schaumahl, Offenbach/ Frankfurt, 16 Points Gault Millau, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Picture: Plateau de Fruits de Mer at Pinasse Café

About an hour away by car from Bordeaux City is the Bassin d'Arcachon. The Bassin d’Arcachon is one of the most beautiful regions in France. This region is a perfect mix of the earthy traditions of the Landes region and the seaside joys of the Atlantic coast of France. It has a special atmosphere with stunning landscapes and culinary traditions.

On the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours, we always spent one day at the Bassin d'Arcachon. Our favorite place for lunch is Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. If we are lucky - and this time we were lucky - during lunch you can watch the water recede and the oyster banks emerge. Some of us walked to the oyster banks after lunch to take a closer look.

The Bassin d'Arcachon

The Bassin d'Arcachon is a bay of the Atlantic Ocean on the southwest coast of France, located just a few kilometres away from Bordeaux. The bay covers an area of 150 km² at high tide and 40 km² at low tide. Just south of the entrance is the Great Dune of Pyla. Nearly in the middle of the bay is a very particular island: L'île aux Oiseaux (Isle of the Birds).

Cap Ferret is a narrow strip of land between the Bay of Arcachon and the Atlantic Ocean where numerous no frills wooden oyster shacks line the beach (cabanes de pecheurs). The menu simply lists different kinds of oysters and their prices. It’s here that a large part of France’s 130,000-ton oyster harvest is produced. Cap Ferret is a fishing village with numerous oyster and seafood places.

Pictures: The Bassin d'Arcachon

Lunch at Pinasse Café

2 B avenue de l Ocean | Cap Ferret, 33970, Lege-Cap-Ferret, France

A "pinasse" describes a small sail boat design which served French oystermen for centuries as an important work boat. They were about 20 to 30 feet long, narrow, flat bottomed, with a round stern, usually equipped with one mast (occasionally also two), no jib, a center board at times and a rudder, with plenty carrying capacity for oysters. If the oystermen happened to get stuck in a prolonged wind lull, they could return to shore by paddle.

Pictures: Lunch at Pinasse Café

Oyster Banks in Front of the Pinasse Café

From the Pinasse Café you have a good view of the oyster banks in front of Pinasse Café. You can even go there when the water recedes.

Pictures: At the Oyster Banks

Restaurant Chez Hortense

With the group, we always have lunch at Pinasse Café, for a number of reasons, including the more central location and the view of the oyster banks. Another fine seafood place is Restaurant Chez Hortense, closer to the tip of Cap Ferret.

Avenue du Semaphore, 33950, Lege-Cap-Ferret, France

Picture: Lunch at Chez Hortense in Cap Ferret, with 4th Generation Owner Bernadette Lescarret

Paris Match: Face à eux, les plus belles vues : l’île aux Oiseaux, le banc d’Arguin, la dune du Pilat. Et, pour lieu de rendez-vous, Chez Hortense, une institution. On n’y respire pas seulement l’iode mais aussi l’Histoire. Au départ, il y eut Hortense Lescarret, qui ouvrit l’établissement à la fin de la Première Guerre mondiale. Depuis, quatre générations se sont succédé, dont la dernière représentante est Bernadette, sans aucun doute une des femmes les plus connues de la commune. Impossible de la louper, dans une robe à fleurs multicolore. Auprès d’elle, François et Olivier, ses deux fils, et Frédéric, son neveu. Midi et soir, la terrasse affiche complet. Les tables sont réservées dix jours à l’avance.

Pictures: At Chez Hortense

lexpress.com: Bernadette Lescarret, la patronne de Chez Hortense. Qui ne connaît pas Chez Hortense n'est pas... du bassin d'Arcachon ! Cette institution de Cap-Ferret a vu quatre générations d'habitués se succéder. Aux fourneaux, les troisième et quatrième générations des Crampé oeuvrent de concert : Bernadette Lescarret, 60 ans, ses fils François, 35 ans, en cuisine, et Olivier, 30 ans, en salle, ainsi que son neveu Frédéric, 40 ans. C'est en 1914 qu' Hortense Crampé (grand-mère de Bernadette) rachète avec son mari l'hôtel-restaurant de la pointe de Cap-Ferret. Attaqué par l'érosion, l'hôtel s'effondre en 1936. Pour rouvrir à quelques mètres de là deux ans plus tard. On y sert moules, huîtres rôties au foie gras et poissons grillés, dans une atmosphère familiale.

Pictures: Langoustines, Oysters on the Half Shell and Moules avec des Frites

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

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Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

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Winemaker Dinner with Château Lafon Rochet at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, with Sofia Poniatowski and Chef Bertrand Chemel, USA/ Bordeaux

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Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Château Lafon Rochet at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, with Sofia Poniatowski and Chef Bertrand Chemel, USA/ Bordeaux

Sofia Poniatowski of the Tesseron family that owns Château Lafon-Rochet was in town (Washington DC) - for the Heart's Delight events - and Annette Schiller was able to organize a winemaker dinner with her at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia.

Pictures: Arriving at Restaurant 2941

The wine-pairing dinner with Michel Tesseron in his private dining room at Château Lafon-Rochet was the highlight of the 2016 ombiasy tour to Bordeaux. See: At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Picture: Getting Ready - Annette Schiller and Sofia Poniatowski

In terms of Château Lafon-Rochet winemaker dinners in Washington DC, this was the second one Annette organized. The first one was with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet and the wines of Château Lafon-Rochet a few years ago at BToo: Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet atChef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Pictures: Champagne Reception

Finally, on the evening following the Château Lafon-Rochet winemaker dinner at Restaurant 2941, there was another Bordeaux winemaker dinner in the Washington DC area, organized by Annette Schiller: Winemaker Dinner with Château Haut-Bailly at BToo in Washington DC, with Diana Paulin and Chef Bart Vandaele, USA/ Bordeaux

Pictures: Sofia Poniatowski and Chef Bertrand Chemel

Invitation

Please welcome Sofia from the Tesseron family (owners, managers, winemakers of Château Lafon-Rochet) on May, 7, 2018 at 6.30 pm for a fabulous dinner meticulously prepared by chef Bertrand Chemel at restaurant 2941 in Falls Church.

The dinner is at $ 170 incl. tax and gratuity, showcasing the phenomenal wines of Château Lafon-Rochet (vintages 2014, 2010, 2005,1996 and a 2005 Château Rieussec, Sauterne).

Located in Saint-Estèphe, nestled between two legendary classified growths, Cos d’Estournel and Lafite Rothschild, Château Lafon-Rochet has the distinction of being one of five Chateau in Saint-Estèphe to be included in the 1855 Classifaction of the Médoc. With its origins dating back to the 16th century, Lafon-Rochet has exhibited the outstanding quality in winemaking to stand the test of time.

Pictures: Welcome and Opening Remarks - Sommelier Jonathan Schuyler, Sofia Poniatowski and Annette Schiller

Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet features some of the finest vineyards in the world. It is situated in the small appellation Saint-Estèphe and is sandwiched between two prominent neighbors: Cos-d’Estournel on the other side of the street and Lafite-Rothschild, separated only by a small dirt track, and visible across the vineyard that belongs to Lafon-Rochet. Since the 16th century this Château makes excellent wines and had been in the hands of the Lafon family for almost 300 years.

In 1895 the phylloxera disaster forced the family to sell Château Lafon-Rochet. A period of a rapid succession of several disinterested owners followed until Guy Tesseron (who also bought Château Pontet-Canet) acquired the château in the 1960s. He and then his son Michel brought Lafon-Rochet back to its former glory. The new generation is now at the helm and Basile Tesseron is energetically pursuing quality control.

Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are currently at the helm of Château Lafon-Rochet.

History

Lafon-Rochet’s history dates back to the 17th century. The property was then known as the Domaine Rochet and belonged to Antoinette Guillemotes who renamed the estate Château Lafon-Rochet after her marriage with Etienne de Lafon..

Over the 150 years that followed, Etienne de Lafon’s heirs not only maintained the estate and coped with the various diseases and economic difficulties from which the vineyard suffered but also enabled Lafon-Rochet to enter the 1855 classification of the Grands crus du Médoc (the Great Growths of the Medoc).

At the dawn of the 20th century financial difficulties resurfaced and so new owners took over the Château. Thus began a long period of instability until the Tesseron family took over the estate in 1960.

When in 1960 Guy Tesseron, a master of old Cognac, took over the property, he had to start from scratch and rebuild the whole property. Thus began Château Lafon Rochet’s rebirth.

First he concentrated on the renovation of the fermenting room and the wine storehouse before tackling the mansion itself. He decided to demolish the whole building and create a new family home for Lafon-Rochet. The plans were for an elegant Chartreuse, which was quite unusual at the time.

It took almost ten years to restore the château, the vineyard and infrastructures. This fresh start finally paid off in 1966. As the young Michel Tesseron recalls it was the first time that Lafon-Rochet was able to present a wine worthy of Quatrième Grand cru – fourth growth. The following year, 1967, was a great vintage paving the way for 1970, one of Lafon-Rochet’s most memorable vintages. In 1975 Guy Tesseron also took over Château Pontet-Canet, then a few years later Château Malescasse.

Until 1999 the family jointly managed Château Pontet-Canet and Château Lafon-Rochet but lost the Château Malescasse, so dear to Michel Tesseron. As part of the re-organization, Alfred and his brother Gerard Tesseron took over Pontet-Canet, while Michel and his sister Princess Caroline Poniatowski took over Lafon-Rochet. Michel spontaneously turned towards the Château “jaune”, so-called since he repainted it sunshine yellow in 2000.

Pictures: With Owners Basile and Michel Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclerq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet at Château Lafon-Rochet

Michel and Basile Tesseron

Before joining the family business in 1987, Michel Tesseron worked in in Cognac, then in Bordeaux for Barton & Guestier, and for the négociants Chantecaille.

In 2007, Basile Tesseron joined his father in order to continue the work started by his grandfather, who had already initiated the young Basile into the subtleties of the aromas and flavours of cognac.

With passion, humour and ambition, Basile pursued the work of his predecessors enabling Lafon-Rochet to live on through the centuries. He began by redesigning the vat room of the property, reviving the quest for excellence and quality in keeping with the exceptional terroir and the human and family values that have punctuated 5 centuries of adventure.

Basile Tesseron took over with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Vineyards and Winemaking

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Basile Tesseron, Directeur Technique Lucas Leclercq and Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet are steering Château Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of Basile’s uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

As far as winemaking is concerned, the wine cellar has been completely renovated. Importantly, Basile and Michel Tesseron decided to go the route of stainless steel tanks and concrete vats. To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate now has 18 stainless steel tanks and 18 concrete vats in different sizes and shapes for fermentation. The wine is aged for 9 months in new oak and for another 9 month in used oak.

The grand vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases). The second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases).

Pictures: The Dinner, with Sofia Poniatowski

2941 Restaurant

EaterDC: 2941 manages to strike a balance between elegant and casual, and between straightforward and elaborate cooking. Chef Bertrand Chemel's skills are evident in dishes such as a paella soup, and broccoli raviolini with smoked pioppini mushroom. Diners can have a snack at the bar, an a la carte meal, or a full tasting menu. It's all available in a picturesque setting by a lake and waterfall in Falls Church, Virginia.

Picture: 2941 Restaurant

Executive Chef Bertrand Chemel

In an area of the country until recently confined to strip malls and burger joints, Chef Bertrand Chemel brings a welcome dose of Gallic flair at 2941. An Auvergne boy born-and-raised, it was no surprise, then, when Chemel fell into his first job in a kitchen. At 14, he found himself sweeping the flour from the floors of the bakery and pastry shop next to his grandmother’s house. An obsession was born.

He would soon be under the wing of renowned chef Michel Gaudin at his eponymous destination restaurant in Megève, France. The two fell in quickly and Gaudin became his mentor, sending Chemel to Geneva’s Hotel du Rhône for training. Aptly, this small nation known mostly for being neutral, and making nifty portable knives, would be that all-important exposure to international cuisines. He also spent time at La Bastide St-Antoine in Grasse, France, and at the Savoy Hotel in London.

If Gaudin was Chemel’s first mentor, Daniel Boulud was his stateside guru after his move to the US . It was from this master of French-cuisine-for-Americans that Chemel honed his culinary style. He began as a line cook in 1999 at Daniel and with a stop along the way as Laurent Tourondel’s sous chef at Cello, he eventually landed at Café Boulud in 2003.

The sleekly modern 2941 where Chemel has found his own resting spot is an astonishingly idyllic place where you have to avoid bumping into Rodin sculptures and Dalis in the herb garden where Chemel plucks his aromatics daily—an appropriate venue for the contemporary Gallic fare that he interprets through the lens of Americana, and Virginia’s bounty.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller, with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Château Lafon-Rochet Winemaker Dinner

Monday May 7, 2018
2941 Restaurant
Five-Course Tasting Menu | $170 All Inclusive

Pictures: The Tables

Reception
Canapés
Ossau Iraty cheese canelé
Hamachi crudo, caviar, kalamansi foam
Radish & smoked whipped butter
Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV


First Course
Crispy Bacon Meurette
Bordeaux poached quail egg, ramps, mushroom, charred carrot
Pelerins de Lafon-Rochet (2014)


Second Course
Braised Beef Cheeks
grilled Portobello, mushroom risotto, baby watercress
Château Lafon-Rochet (2010)


Third Course
Elysian Lamb Loin
caramelized fennel, eggplant, romano beans, rosemary jus
Château Lafon-Rochet (2005)


Fourth Course
Grilled Venison Loin
marjoram pomme purée, roasted tomato on the vine
Château Lafon-Rochet (1996)


Dessert
Millefeuille
berries, vanilla cream, puff pastry, yuzu ice cream
Château Rieussec, Sauternes (2005)


Executive Chef, Bertrand Chemel
​Pastry Chef, Nicholas Pine

The Wines

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV

wine-searcher average price in US$: 54

Billecart-Salmon is a medium-sized champagne house in Mareuil-sur-Ay, France. Founded in 1818 with the marriage of Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, it is one of the few to remain family owned.


Pelerins de Lafon-Rochet (2014)

wine-searcher average price in US$: 32


Château Lafon-Rochet (2010)

wine-searcher average price in US$: 65

I had some bottle variation with this blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The 2010 from Lafon Rochet seemed slightly restrained and closed down on the three occasions I tasted it in Bordeaux. Dense black/ruby, it displays sweet tannin, excellent purity, fresh fruit and a very primary, almost grapy style with lots of fruit, but at the same time, a somewhat monolithic character. It should turn out fine, but it certainly needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring and should drink well for up to two decades.

The property is owned by the Tesseron family and run by the newest generation, son Basile, who is converting the estate to biodynamic farming a la his uncle, Alfred Tesseron at Pontet Canet.
Score: 90+ Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (204), March 2013


Château Lafon-Rochet (2005)

wine-searcher average price in US$: 84

Dense ruby/purple and still youthful and exuberant, with oodles of cassis and incense, the 2005 Lafon-Rochet is medium to full-bodied, with ripe tannin and a long finish. Just becoming approachable. 91 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (219), June 2015


Château Lafon-Rochet (1996)

wine-searcher average price in US$: 90


Château Rieussec, Sauternes (2005)

Château Rieussec is Premier Cru Classé of 1855. Belonging to the Sauternes appellation in Gironde, in the region of Graves, the winery is located in the commune of Fargues.

The Rieussec estate was the property of the monks of Carmes de Langon until the French revolution, when the church property was confiscated by the state and auctioned off. Today, it is owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild, the owners of Château Lafite Rothschild. The Rothschilds invested in a new cellar in 1989, and strove to increase quality by better selection of the grapes, which also led to reduced production in the 1990s.

The vineyards of Château Rieussec total 93 hectares and border on those of Château d'Yquem in the west. They are planted to 90% Sémillon, 7% Sauvignon and 3% Muscadelle. Four wines are produced, of which three from the Sauternes appellation: the classified growth Château Rieussec, the second wine Carmes de Rieussec, and Château de Cosse. Furthermore, a dry white wine from the Bordeaux AOC, is produced under the name « R » de Rieussec, using a blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% new oak.

Château Rieussec is aged from 16 to 26 months in barrel, depending on the vintage, typically using 55% new barrels.

Average total production is around 10 000 cases annually, of which about 6 000 cases Château Rieussec. There was no production in 1993 and half the average production in 2000.


Closing Remarks and Thank You

Thanks Sofia, Annette and Bertrand for a great evening, with the world class wines of Château Lafon-Rochetand the world class food of Chef Bertrand Chemel.

Pictures: Thank You

Going Home

Bye-bye and good night. The dinner took place in the "Waterfall Room" of Restaurant 2941 and on our way home we had the opportunity to take another look at the wonderful waterfall.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Château Lafon-Rochet and OmbiasyPR & WineTours

Château Lafon-Rochet belongs to the 2 or 3 dozens of Bordeaux châteaux to which we have a closer relationship than to others.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Basile Tesseron, Owner, in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

One of the first winemaker dinners that Annette organized in Washington DC was with Anaïs Maillet and the wines of Château Lafon-Rochet at BToo on 14th Street NW.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Château LAFON-ROCHET’s winemaker Anaïs Maillet at B Too in Washington DC (Picture: Charlie Adler). See:  Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France (2014)

I still have good memories of a winemaker dinner at the French Embassy in Washington DC a number of years ago, hosted by Château Lafon-Rochet owner Basile Tesseron.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Basile Tesseron. See: Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basile Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France (2012)

A year ago, Michel Tesseron treated the ombiasy tour group to a very special dinner in the private quarters of Château Lafon-Rochet.

Pictures: Dinner with Michel Tesseron. See:  At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Postscriptum

Virginia top winemaker Chris Pearmund was among the guests and he used the event to propose to his charming wife-to-be. All the best to the two of you!!!

Pictures: Chris Pearmund and his Fiancée, with Sofia Poniatowski

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France 

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basile Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France (2012)

Dining with Côte de Beaune Winemaker Pascal Maillard, Domaine Maillard Père et Fils, at Restaurant 2941 in Virginia, USA

Wining and Dining with a Princess: Wine Pairing Dinner with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, USA

Jean-Michel Guillon from Gevry-Chambertin in Washington DC: Winemaker Dinner at 2941 Restaurant with Chef Bertrand Chemel

Top 10 Riesling Spätlese 2016 - Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Germany

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Florian Lauer, Weingut Peter Lauer in New York City. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

The German Spätlese Rieslings listed below have 4 things in common: They are abnormally low in terms of alcohol, they are noticably sweet in the glass, they are at least at the Spätlese level in terms of the German Wine Law of 1971 and they were made by interrupting the fermentation in the cellar.

The latter is extremely important. Without the intervention of the winemaker, the wines listed would be dry. Such wines are generally labeled fruity-sweet. By contrast, noble sweet wines - Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein - have so much sugar in the grapes at harvest that it is impossible to ferment the must to complete dryness.

In the German Wine Law of 1971 - the fundamental basis for classifying German wine - a Spätlese is defined by the sugar content of the grapes at the point of harvest. The Germans use the Öchsle scale to measure the sweetness of the grapes. Grapes with a certain Öchsle level are classified as Spätlese. They have more sugar in the grapes than Kabinett and less than Auslese. All these wines - Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese - if not stopped by the winemaker, would be trocken/ dry wines: Kabinett trocken, Spätlese trocken and Auslese trocken.

The Kabinett trocken, Spätlese trocken and Auslese trocken concepts are disappearing in Germany as part of the move to a terroir-driven classification of wines. Typically, the predicates Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese are only being used when the fermentation was interrupted by the winemaker to produce a low-alcohol, sweet-style wine.

These wines are quite unique and have their fans all over the world.

See also:

Normally, Wine is Dry. But there are Many Sweet Wines in the World. How is Sweet Wine Made?
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Top 10 Riesling Spätlese 2016 - Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Germany

95 Points

2016 Weingut Peter Lauer Schodener Saarfeilser -24- Riesling Spätlese
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Kettnacher Euchariusberg -14 - Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Franz-Josef Eifel Trittenheimer Apotheke Goldstückchen Riesling Spätlese
2016 Hofgut Falkenstein Kettnacher Euchariusberg -6 - Riesling Spätlese

Weingut Peter Lauer

Pictures: Best Riesling Spätlese: Weingut Peter Lauer Schodener Saarfeilser -24- 2016 (Saar)

94 Points

2016 Weingut Weiser-Künstler Enkirchner Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Melsheimer Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Schäf Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Franz-Josef Eifel Trittenheimer Apotheke Alte Reben Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Max Ferdinand Richter Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
2016 Weingut Kühling-Gillot Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Spätlese

Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn

Picture: Christian Schiller and Peter Jakob Kühn in Kiedrich, Rheingau, see: Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller with Peter Jakob Kühn in Berlin

Pictures: One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released on Friday, November 24, 2017. I participated in the presentation of the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 in Mainz, Germany. The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 is at the same time a new and an old German wine guide.

Picture: Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018

2 days after the publication of the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, on Monday, November 27, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was released. The Gault Millau WeinGuide 2018 was published by Zabert + Sandmann, which had aquired the license for the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland in June 2017 from the Christian Verlag. The latter had published the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland for many years.

The Gault MillauWeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather by a newly established team of tasters, all of them highly regarded, led by Editor-in-Chief Britta Wiegelmann. Previously, she was Editor-in-Chief of the Vinum Wine Journal. She took over the position from Joel B. Payne, who had been the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Editor-in-Chief (earlier with Armin Diel) since it was first published in 1994.

Joel B. Payne - along with his Deputy Carsten S. Henn - stayed with the Christian Verlag, managed to bring on board the Vinum Journal and decided to continue publishing a wine guide under a new name: The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland was borne.

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 was put togather Joel B. Payne, Editor-in-Chief, and Carsten Henn, Deputy Editor-in-Chief, with the same team that put togather and rated the wines and winemakers of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017, published 12 months ago. The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 looks very much like the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 except for the color of the cover, which is red and no longer green. Also, the winemakers do not receive 1 to 5 grapes anymore but 1 to 5 stars.

Joel B. Payne made clear that he sees the Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 as an update of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 and in a row with the previous 24 issues of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland, the production of which he led as Editor-in-Chief. Red is now the new Green, said Joel B. Payne at the presentation of the Vinum Weinguide Deutschland 2018 (which is red), while the cover of the Gault Millau Millau WeinGuide Deutschland has been green during the past 24 years and continues to be green.

Picture: Joel B. Payne Being Interviewed

The Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 reviews on about 1000 pages more than 12.000 wines of 1000 wineries. Its rating symbol is a star and Germany’s best winemakers are awarded one to five stars. The wines are rated on the 1 to 100 scale.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX upcoming tours April

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Vinum WeinGuide Deutschland 2018 Awards: The Award Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Normally, Wine is Dry. But there are Many Sweet Wines in the World. How is Sweet Wine Made?

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany


Winemaker Dinner with Château Haut-Bailly at BToo in Washington DC, with Daina Paulin and Chef Bart Vandaele, USA/ Bordeaux

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Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Château Haut-Bailly at BToo in Washington DC, with Daina Paulin, Annette Schiller, Chef Bart Vandaele and Christian Schiller

Daina Paulin of Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, was in town (Washington DC) and Annette Schiller/ ombiasy WineTours was able to organize a winemaker dinner at BToo, with Daina and the world class wines of Château Haut-Bailly and Chef Bart Vandaele and his American/ Belgian/ French fusion cooking.

Picture: BToo in Washington DC

Invitation

Please welcome Daina, right hand of the owner family and managers of Château Haut-Bailly, on May 8, 2018 at 6.30 pm for an exclusive dinner chef Bart Vandeale prepared to match the fantastic Haut-Bailly wines at restaurant Btoo in Washington DC.

The dinner is at $ 143 incl. tax and gratuity and focusses on the outstanding wines of Château Haut-Bailly (La Parde 2012, 2014, 2012, 2008).

Pictures: Preparations - Chef Bart Vandaele and Annette Schiller

Château Haut-Bailly has the distinction of being one of the only 16 Chateaux in Pessac-Léognan to be included in the 1959 Grand Cru Classé Classifaction of the Graves region. For over four centuries Château Haut-Bailly defended its reputation as producer of wines of superb quality.

Pictures: In the Kitchen - BToo Executive Chef Bart Vandaele and Chef de Cuisine Alex Flores

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly is a Graves Cru Classé estate that has really hit form in the last 5-7 years. It is located in the commune of Léognan, which is usually more associated with white wine production. Just a stone’s throw away from the city of Bordeaux and our hotel, Château Haut-Bailly, one of the most prestigious Cru Classé de Graves, sits majestically in a 30 hectare vineyard at the heart of the Graves region on the left bank of the river Garonne. Neighboring estates include Château Malartic-Lagravière, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Carbonnieux. The estate's second wine is named Le Parde de Haut-Bailly.

At Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than five centuries. Like many Bordeaux estates, the property changed owners multiple times over the centuries. However, three owner families put their mark on the estate.

First, in 1630 it was bought by the Le Bailly family which eventually gave the estate its name. In those days the château had about 80 acres under vine, roughly the same as today. There were many ups and downs during the centuries and by the 1950s the estate was in a sorry state.

Pictures: Visiting Château Haut-Bailly with Daina Paulin. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Second, a wine merchant from Belgium, Daniel Sanders, bought the château in 1955 and started intensive renovations. His efforts proofed him right and Château Haut-Bailly was one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates.

Finally, in 1998, Elisabeth and Robert G. Wilmers – he an American banker, she French – bought Château Haut-Bailly and spared no expenses to invest in the vineyards, winery, and the château to give the estate the possibility to keep producing top quality wines. Robert G. Wilmers passed away in 2017.

Today, Château Haut-Bailly is managed by Véronique Sanders, fourth generation of the Sanders family.

Robert G. Wilmers (1934 - 2017)

In 1998 Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by the late Robert G. Wilmers, Chairman and CEO of the M & T Bank based in Buffalo, New York. As a lover of Bordeaux Grands Crus, his dream came true when he became the owner at Haut-Bailly. He spent much of his childhood and professional life in Belgium. Hugely conscious of Haut-Bailly’s history yet eager to ensure continuity and modernity, he entrusted in 1998 Haut-Bailly’s management to Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of Jean Sanders. Robert G. Wilmers passed last year.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Daina Paulin and the late Robert G. Wilmers in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo on 14th Street in Washington DC, NW, is a leading restaurant in the Nation's Capital. Annette Schiller and I love to go to winemaker dinners at BToo and organize ourselves winemaker dinners there. The food of Belga Cafe/ BToo Executive Chef Bart Vandaele is always most creative and delicious. Chef Bart is a fun guy to hang around with and guide us through the evening. And BToo has a separate room in the basement that is perfect for special events like winemaker dinners. Recently, Alex Flores has become the Chef de Cuisine of BToo.

Picture: Fuad Issa, Annette Schiller, Bart M. Vandaele, Christian Schiller, Laurant Lala, Elite Wines, Etienne Verdier, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard and Greet De Keyser, Bart M. Vandaele's Partner. See: Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

Sekt Reception

The evening started with a German Sekt Reception. Chef Bart poured F.B. Schönleber, Riesling, Extra Brut, Rheingau, Méthode Champenoise, 2013, courtesy of Annette Schiller, and offered spectacular amuses bouches.

Pictures: Sekt Reception

Welcome and Opening

Following the Sekt Reception, Chef Bart Vandaele welcomed the guests, Annette Schiller introduced Daine Paulin and talked about the F.B. Schönleber Riesling Sekt, and Daine Paulin talked about Château Haut-Bailly.

Pictures: Chef Bart Vandaele, Annette Schiller and Daine Paulin

The Dinner

The dinner was fabulous. Chef Bart joined us for each course to explain it and Daine walked from table to table to talk about her wines.

Pictures: The Dinner

The Menu


Reception

Amuse Bouche
Foie Gras Lollipop with speculoos cookie
Scallop Tartare with avocado and cucumber
King Crab with curry flan and kafir lime
F:B. Schönleber, Riesling, Extra Brut, Rheingau, Méthode Champenoise, 2013


First Course

Jambon Persillé
Ham&parsley terrine, Belgian mustard, endive, bittersweet vinaigrette
La Parde de Haut Bailly, 2012


Second Course

Braised oxtail ravioli, gulf shrimp, wild mushroom, green garlic, braising broth
Château Haut-Bailly 2014


Third Course

Venison loin, spring peas, blodd sausage croquette, rhurbarb, pommes pailles
Château Haut-Bailly 2012


Fourth Course

3-year-ol Durch Gouda, cherry balsamic, pooped grains
Château Haut-Bailly 2008


Fifth Course

Surprise Birthday dessert
Gonet Medeville Extra Brut Rose Premier Cru Champagne NV


The Wines

Château Haut-Bailly Portfolio

Château Haut-Bailly has 28 hectares of vineyards which are very well sited on high, gravelly ground just east of Léognan village. In total the estate produces 150,000 bottles annually. Approximately 50% of production from the property is Grand Vin, 30% is second and 20% is third wine, although this will depend on the vintage.

Grand Vin: Château Haut-Bailly

The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in 26 concrete tanks of different sizes. The wines are aged for 18 months in new (about 50%) and used barrique barrels. There are 3 different cellars for barrel aging.

La Parde de Haut-Bailly

The estate's second wine is La Parde de Haut-Bailly, produced since 1967, but under the name Domaine de la Parde until 1979. It is aged in barrels for 12 months.

Pessac-Léognan by Chateau Haut-Bailly

The property’s third wine, "Pessac-Léognan," which bears the same name as its appellation, was created in 1987. It comes from young vines – an accessible wine that has spent less time in barrel and can be enjoyed young.

Rosé de Haut-Bailly

Since 2004, Château Haut-Bailly has produced a ‘rosé de saignée’ when the conditions allow.

The Wines Rinata Gafarova Poured

Pictures: Rinata Gafarova - Preparing

F:B. Schönleber, Riesling, Extra Brut, Rheingau, Méthode Champenoise, 2013

wine-searcher average price in US$: 24


Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

Pictures: Bernd and Ralf Schönleber. See also: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

La Parde de Haut Bailly, 2012

wine-searcher average price in US$: 32


Château Haut-Bailly was one of the first to produce a second wine in 1967. Originated from the same plots and made with the same winemaking techniques as the first label, La Parde Haut-Bailly is subject to the same draconian selection controls. Over time, it has developed its own personality, displaying a pleasant silky texture on the palate and achieving a style of elegance and refinement. Although its softness and forward aroma mean it can be drunk sooner than Château Haut-Bailly, it also has good aging potential (5 to 8 years).

Château Haut-Bailly 2014

wine-searcher average price in US$: 83


96 points Vinous - The 2014 Haut-Bailly has turned out beautifully. Dark, sumptuous and expressive, the 2014 exudes depth and finesse. Ample and resonant on the palate, with striking depth, the 2014 possesses exceptional balance and class. Hints of smoke, tobacco and licorice infuse the deep, creamy finish. (AG) (2/2017)

95 points James Suckling - A very well-made, modern wine with ripe cherry and cassis notes but rather discrete oak. The bright fruit and lively acidity balance the moderately dry tannins very well, and the finish is long and quite complex. Compacted. Needs time to open. Beautiful. (2/2017)
95 points Wine Enthusiast

94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - The 2014 Haut Bailly has a charming, quite intense bouquet with layers of blackberry, raspberry coulis, black olive and melted tar scents that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, harmonious and focused with superb density and precision towards the finish. This is a classy number and alongside Domaine de Chevalier, it is one of the standouts from the appellation in this vintage. (NM) (3/2017)

Château Haut-Bailly 2012

wine-searcher average price in US$: 92


Château Haut-Bailly 2008

wine-searcher average price in US$: 106

The Wine Advocate - "A candidate for the -wine of the vintage,- the 2008 Haut-Bailly possesses incredible complexity. Tell-tale notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, damp earth, black cherries and black currants intermixed with a hint of subtle barbecue smoke are present in this classic, quintessential Graves. Medium-bodied with an emerging, precocious complexity, it is a super-pure, beautifully textured, long wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years. Bravo!"


Gonet Medeville Extra Brut Rose Premier Cru Champagne NV


Julie and Xavier Gonet-Médeville are, in many ways, the first couple of French wines. Both hail from storied winemaking families: Julie’s family is famous for its incomparable Chateau Gilette, and Xavier comes from a long line of Champagne growers in Le Mesnil. Leading a new generation of winemakers, they bring their family knowledge, methods and passion to the many wines they now make together.In 2000, when his family’s plots were being divided, Xavier opted for a modest collection of the highest quality 1er and Grand Cru vineyards with a goal of producing only the most exquisite, small-production Champagnes. Champagne Gonet-Médeville’s Pinot Noir (Bisseuil and Ambonnay) and Chardonnay (Mesnil-Sur-Oger) are farmed organically, and each parcel is vinified separately to emphasize its individual terroir. There is no malolactic fermentation, and dosage is minute. Julie and Xavier’s resulting Champagnes are very elegant, delicate, festive and easy to drink.

Thanks

Bart Vandaele thanked Rinata Gafarova and Chef de Cuisine Alex Flores.

Pictures: Bart Vandaele, Rinata Gafarova, Alex Flores

Happy Birthday Chef Bart and BToo

At the end of the dinner, we celebrated Chef Bart Vandaele's and a guest's Birthday as well as the 5th Anniversary of BToo.

Pictures: Happy Birthday Chef Bart and BToo

4 Wine-pairing Dinners at Château Haut-Bailly with Diana Paulin

This winemaker dinner at BToo was our 5th dinner with Daina Paulin, with the previous 4 dinners all at Château Haut-Bailly in the private dining room. A wine-pairing dinner with Daina Paulin in the private dining room of Château Haut-Bailly has been the grande finale of the ombiasy Bordeaux tours during the past years and we were very happy to receive Daina this time in Washington DC at one of our favorite restaurants, BToo. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Pictures: Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot and Host Daina Paulin. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Other BToo/ Ombiasy Winemaker Dinners

Last month, the April winemaker dinner at BToo was also a joint ombiasy WineTours/ BToo event, with the German winemaker Christian L. Stahl pouring his bone-dry wines from Franken. See: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, and Chef Dieter Samyn at BToo in Washington DC, USA

In terms of Bordeaux winemaker dinners at BToo, this was the second one Annette organized. The first one was with Anaïs Maillet and the wines of Château Lafon-Rochet a few years ago. See: Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Finally, on the evening before the Château Haut-Bailly winemaker dinner at BToo, there was a Château Lafon Rochet winemaker dinner at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, also organized by Annette Schiller. See: Winemaker Dinner with Château Lafon Rochet at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, with Sofia Poniatowski and Chef Bertrand Chemel, USA/ Bordeaux

Bye-bye

Bye-bye and good night.

Pictures: Bye-bye and Good Night - Bart Vandaele, Mark Dreyfoos, Daina Paulin, Annette and Christian Schiller

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Invitation: TWO !!!!! Exceptional Bordeaux Winemaker Dinners: Lafon-Rochet, May 7, and Haut-Bailly, May 8, 2018, Washington DC, USA

Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Winemaker Dinner with Château Lafon Rochet at Restaurant 2941 in Northern Virginia, with Sofia Poniatowski and Chef Bertrand Chemel, USA/ Bordeaux

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Picture: At Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

A very special stop during the 2017 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours was the one at Cooperage Berger et Fils. Until very recently, and for a long time, the company was a family-company, run and owned by René Berger and his wife Valérie Berger. Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil was recently acquired by the TFF Group.

When I first visited Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil the company was still owned and run by the Berger family. Valérie Berger was our guide and we met René Berger durng the tour. At that time the web site of Cooperage Berger & Fils contained a very detailed description of the whole barrel making process, which I used for my block posting.

In this posting, I kept the text of René and Valérie Berger. The pictures are from the 2017 Tour.

The Managing Director of Cooperage Berger & Fils was our guide.

TFF Group

TFF Group, formerly Tonnellerie Frany detacois Freres SA, is a France-based company that manufactures and distributes oak barrels. The Company has four core businesses: stave milling, cooperage, cask manufacturing and oak wine-aging products. The Company has operating units in France, the United States, Spain, Hungary, South Africa, China, New Zealand, Australia and Ireland.

Cooperage Berger and Fils

René Berger: My passion was born from that of my father and grandfather. I am the proud descendant of a family of coopers, based in the Médoc, a truly exceptional land, since the beginning of the last century. From a very young age, these two men breathed into me the love of manual work and craftsmanship. They raised me in the pure artisanal tradition of master coopers, passing down their ancestral savoir-faire. It was therefore a natural conclusion that I should become a cooper in my turn.

Picture: Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

When my father passed away in 1991, my first aim was to preserve and perpetuate his work, transmitting the craftsman’s skills to my own children. My mother’s full support was very important to me then, as it is now. It was also important to me to fight against an increasing standardization of production within the profession.

Picture: Welcome

Making a Barrel

The Managing Director of Cooperage Berger & Fils took us through the whole process of producing a wine barrel.

Valérie Berger: A wine barrel is made up of staves which have been shaped into a bulging cylinder, and flat heads or ends. The staves are held in place by metal hoops. Six to eight hoops encircle the barrel spaced along the length. It takes approximately eight man hours to produce a single wine barrel.

Selection of the Oak

Valérie Berger: We choose the wood for our barrels with the help of well-known professionals, selecting slow-growing French Haute Futaie oak trees which become fine grain timber.

French oak is considered to be the most desirable wood for making wine barrels. Most French Oak comes from one or more of the forests planted in the days of Napoleon for ship building. Five of those forests are primarily used for wine barrel making: Allier, Limousin, Nevers, Trancais and Vosges forests. American Oak is considered to have too much influence on the content of the barrels. But usage is on the rise as the larger influence is sometimes desired and as American barrels are substantially less expensive than the French barrels. Hungarian Oak is also being used for barrel making.

Pictures: Natural Seasoning for 36 Months

The Stavemaker’s Work

Valérie Berger: To achieve the best blends, we acquire stave wood coming from different forests in the centre of France. For the same reason, we work in collaboration with different stave makers in the various areas ensuring a diversification in our supplies. Since 2003 we have developed a partnership with one of them who now prepares staves exclusively for the Tonnellerie Berger.

The selection of the stave wood is extremely important because it essentially determines the quality of the finished product. Wood is selected based on many criteria, including tree shape and growing conditions. These factors determine the textural variety of wood fibers, the fineness of grain and tannin content. Tight grain and fine tannin content are found only in the best wood.

Coding the Wood

Valérie Berger: Each pallet is coded by computer on arrival at our cooperage in Vertheuil, thus allowing the traceability of the barrel. The staves are then carefully stacked in the timber yard.

Natural Seasoning for 36 Months

Valérie Berger: Following the coding the staves are washed and then dried in the open air for at least 3 years in our 16,000 M2 timber yard. The wood will free itself of its harsh tannins and will gain the maturity and complexity necessary for the making of a great barrel.

Preparation of the Wood

Valérie Berger: Pallets of staves will be selected according to their origin, and assembled to create a personalized blend corresponding to the needs and wishes of each customer.

Pictures: Assembling

Assembling

Valérie Berger: Once selected, the staves are prepared and then assembled on a pattern table where the cooper “raises the barrel”, forming a daisy shape. The wood fibres are softened by pre-heating. Then comes the hooping that, thanks to the effects of fire and water, transforms the daisy into a barrel.

Pictures: Assembling

Toasting

Valérie Berger: The crucial stage of our art. Only the complete mastery of wood and fire makes the difference between a simple container and an exceptional barrel ready to age the wine. The “bousinage”, adapted to respect the particularities requested by each client, exults and nuances the aromas expressed by the wood. The hand-crafted nature of our cooperage enables us to create a tailor-made barrel for each and every one of our customers.

Pictures: Toasting

Hand-fitting, Marking and Scalding

Valérie Berger: The barrel heads are then individually fitted and each barrel is stamped to ensure traceability. A code records the origin and blend of the wood. An impermeability test is carried out by scalding. 10 litres of water heated to 70° C is pumped at high pressure into the barrel which is moved around so that the water is in contact with the whole surface of the inside of the barrel. This process allows us to check for possible leaks but also to collect test water to be analysed for each finished barrel in the aim of receiving the “Excell Inspection” certificate.

Pictures: Finishing

Finishing

Valérie Berger: At this stage we take great care of the aesthetic appearance of our barrel. They are thus sandpapered or hand-scraped for customers who prefer the “guistrage” finish. And the final galvanized steel hoops replace the assembly hoops. And last of all, according to the type of barrel, pine bars held in place by chestnut pegs are set on the heads for the Château Ferré, and four chestnut hoops, bound with a type of wicker are installed for the Bordelaise Traditionnelle. This last step is carried out only by very experienced craftsmen. It is a true heritage of ancestral expertise that can only be mastered after years of practice.

Picture: Barrels Ready to be Filled with Wine

While on the tour I detected on the wall a list of the orders Cooperage Berger et Fils was working on while we were there. This was an impressive list and included, interestingly, Boxwood Winery and RdV Estate, two highly regarded wine producers in Virginia.

Picture: Orders including from Boxwood Winery and RdV Estate in Virginia

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with GM/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé en 1855 - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze, 1 Star Michelin, in Langon, with Jean-Charles Darroze - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)

Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac with Henri Luston, Owner - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Lunch, Tasting and Tour at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Grand Cru Classé St-Estèphe, with Vineyard Manager Anaïs Maillet - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

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Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France

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Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Tour at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Champagne, Sekt, Cava, Pét-Nat ...: Sparkling Wines around the World - A Primer

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Picture: Sparkling Wines of the World. See: Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

Sparkling wine is a wine with significant levels of carbon dioxide in it, making it fizzy. Sparkling wines are made all over the world. The best known sparkling wine is Champagne, which is exclusively produced in the Champagne Region of France.

Production Methods

There are several methods for producing sparkling wine. The key difference is how the carbon dioxide gets into the wine. The carbon dioxide may result from (1) fermentation in a bottle, (2) a second fermentation in a large tank that can withstand the pressures involved (Charmat process), the typical method used for good quality sparklers, and (3) an injection of carbon dioxide, the method used for cheap mass sparklers.

First, the Méthode Champenoise is the most laborious and expensive means of producing sparkling wine. It consists of 2 fermentations of the wine. The first fermentation is the primary fermentation in barrel or tank, just like any other wine to produce the base wine. Following bottling, the introduction of additional yeast and sugar triggers a second fermentation in the bottle that the wine will eventually be sold in. It is this second fermentation that generates the carbon dioxide bubbles responsible for the pop and sparkle.

After the second fermenation, the wine is aged on the lees, the sediment of dead yeast cells that are still in the bottle, for an extended period. The longer the interval of ageing on the lees lasts, the finer the bead of the mousseux.

At this stage, the Champagne is marred by an hazy appearance. Until Anton Mueller, the German cellar master of Veuve Clicquot, invented the system of remuage (riddling), this a how sparkling wine was when opening the bottle. It necessary to either decant the sparkling wine before serving it or to leave it in the glass for some time so the sediment could settle before drinking the Champagne.

Mueller’s remuage (riddling) technique of maneuvering the sediment to the neck of the bottle and then ejecting it revolutionized sparkling wine drinking and remains a key elemement in the Méthode Champenoise production of sparkling wine until today.

The system centers around wooden racks into which the bottles are placed neck first at an angle of 45 degrees. Each day the bottles are turned and tilted so that the bottle points further downwards with each day, the process gradually bringing all the sediment into the neck right behind the cork. The sediment is then frozen to form a "plug" which is then being removed (dégorgement).

Today, maneuvering the sediment to the neck of the bottle can be accomplished far more speedily with gyropallets: 500 or more bottles lie in a cage-like rack, and will be turned at regular intervals in the course of far fewer days, so that the yeasts collect themselves in the neck of the bottles.

Then the spent yeasts are removed. After chilling the bottles, the neck is frozen, and the cap removed. The pressure in the bottle forces out the ice containing the lees, and the bottle is quickly corked to maintain the carbon dioxide in solution. Some liqueur de dosage is added to achieve the desired level of sweetness.

After adjusting the level of fill and setting the sweetness, the bottle is corked, caged and labeled; the sparkler is clear --- without any sediment. Importantly, the amount of sugar added after degorgement determines the sweetness level of the sparkler.

Second, the transversage method is identical to the Méthode Champenoise, except for the disgorgement. After the secondary fermentation is complete and the wine has spent the desired amount of time in bottle on the lees, the individual bottles are not riddled but transferred (hence the name) under counter-pressure into a larger tank. The wine is then filtered, liqueur de dosage added, and filled back into new bottles for sale. This means of production is relevant above all to the bottling of special formats (Jereboam, Rehoboam, etc.). Advantage: the bottles do not have to be riddled, but the indication "bottle fermented" is permissible.

Third, the Charmat Method was developed in the early 1900s. In contrast to the Méthode Champenoise, the second fermenation does not take place in individuell bottles but in large tanks. The base wines are collected in a large, high-pressure tank, sugar and yeast is added to the tank, the second fermenation takes place in the tank, the now sparkling wine is filtered, liqueur de dosage added, and bottled via a counter-pressure bottler. Importantly, there is no aging on the lees.

Fourth, the Méthode Ancestrale is by far the oldest method of making sparkling wine and preceded the traditional method by almost 200 years, or possibly even more. The Méthode Ancestrale involves only one fermentation, which is stopped and then allowed to re-start when the wine is bottled. A single fermentaion starts in tank or barrel and finishes in the bottle. The winemaker bottles the wine  in the middle of its fermenation.

Generally, the last step in the Méthode Ancestrale is the same as in the Méthode Champenoise: Maneuvering the sediment to the neck of the bottle and then ejecting it. But sometimes this step is avoided, which leaves an hazy appearance. There is no harm in this; the dead yeast, or lees, can improve the flavor and texture and also can act as an antioxidant. But you might want to keep the bottle standing up so the sediment settles.

The Méthode Ancestrale generally produces wines with low alcohol content and low pressure.

Fifth, the carbonation method takes the base wine and injects gas in the same way that, for example, coca-cola is made.There is only one fermentation (to produce the base wine) and the corbon dioxide is just added.

Pictures: Mark P. Barth Hand Riddling. See: Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Degrees of Pressure

Fully-sparkling wines, such as Champagne, are generally sold with 5 to 6 atmospheres of pressure in the bottle. This is nearly twice the pressure found in an automobile tire. European Union regulations define a sparkling wine as any wine with an excess of 3 atmospheres in pressure. These include German Schaumwein (Sekt), Spanish Espumoso, Italian Spumante and French Crémant or Mousseux wines.

Semi-sparkling wines are defined as those with between 1 and 2.5 atmospheres of pressures and include German Perlwein (Sekt), French Vin Pétillant and Italian Vino Frizzante. Many of the semi-sparkling wines are produced with the carbonation method or the Charmat Method. 

For the production methods involving a second fermentation, the amount of pressure in the wine is determined by the amount of sugar added for the second fermentation, with more sugar and sufficient yeast producing increased amount of carbon dioxide gas and thus pressure in the wine.

For the Méthode Ancestrale, the amount of sugar and yeast left in the fermenting wine, when the wine is bottled, determines the pressure in the finished wine. Generally, such sparkling wines have a low pressure.

Finally, as fot the carbonation method, the pressure depends on how much carbon dioxide is added.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Classification of Sweetness

Brut Nature/  Brut Zero: Bone-dry - 0-6 grams/ residual sugar.
Brut: Dry - 0-12 grams/liter residual sugar.
Extra Dry/ Extra Sec: Off dry - 12-17 grams/liter residual sugar.
Sec: Noticeably sweet - 17-32 grams/liter residual sugar.
Demi-Sec: Sweet. 32-50 grams/liter residual sugar.
Doux: Sweetest. 50+ grams/liter residual sugar.

Picture: Visit of a Small, Premium Sekt Producer: Sektkellerei Bardong in the Rheingau, Germany – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Bottle Size

Piccolo (0,2 l)
Demi or Filette (0,375 l)
Imperial (0,75 l)
Magnum (1,5 l)
Jeroboam  (3 l)
Rehoboam (4,5 l)
Methusalem (6 l)
Salmanassar (9 l)
Balthasar (12 l)
Nebukadnezar (15 l)
Melchior or Goliath (18 l)
Sovereign or Souverain (25,5 l)
Primat (27 l)
Melchisedech (30 l)

Picture: Annette Schiller tasting Ca'Salina Prosecco at Ca'Salina with Owner Gregorio Bartolin in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region. See: Visiting the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy

Pét Nat (Pétillant Naturel)

Pét-Nat is the new kid on the block when it comes to sparkling wine. Literally “naturally sparkling” it is abbreviated to Pét-Nat.  It has “natural” in its name, which is enough right there to make it buzzy. Pét-Nats are hands-off sparklers made in the Méthode Ancestrale. Pét-Nats stand for authentic craftsmanship in mostly small quantities and for a natural handling of wine. You can find them now all over the world by trendy, hands-off winemakers.

The Méthode Ancestrale is the common element for all Pét Nats that you find in the market. Other aspects may vary. Most Pét-Nat producers work their vineyards according to organic or even biodynamic methods. Often, Pét Nats are Orange Sparkling Wines,i.e. until bottling they are fermented on the mash (with the skin). Generally, there is no removal of  the spent yeasts, thus Pét Nats tend to be marred by an hazy appearance.

The Pét-Nats also have less pressure, with an often less pronounced perlage (semi-sparkling). Their pressure in the bottle is usually 2.5-3 bar, while Champagne comes in at 5-6 bar. The alcohol content is also often lower than in other sparkling wines.

Pét Nats tend to be dry but they don't have to be. Most Pét Nats I have had were dry, but they can also have some residual sweetness. The Clairette de Die from the Rhône Valley is always semi-dry. A light filtration of the fermenting wine before it is bottled leave only a few active yeasts in the wine and the sugar does not fully ferment.

The packaging also often differs in one important detail: Champagne is closed with the characteristic, large corks. Pét-nats, on the other hand, are usually crowned with a modest crown cork – similar to a bottle of beer or cider.

France

Champagne

Blending is the hallmark of Champagne, with most Champagnes being the assembled product of several vineyards and vintages (non-vintage, NV). In Champagne, there are over 19,000 vineyard owners, only 5,000 of which are Champagne producers. The rest sell their grapes to the various Champagne houses, negociants and co-operatives.

Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne. Champagne may be either Blanc de Noirs (made from red grapes), Blanc de Blancs (made from white grapes, most often Chardonnay - A famous example is Ruinart) or Rose, either by adding red wine to a white blend or sometimes by fermenting the juice in contact with the skins.

Champagne's AOC regulations require that NV Champagne cannot legally be sold until it has aged on the lees in the bottle for at least 15 months and vintage Champagne be aged for three years. Most top producers exceed the requirement for vintage Champagne, holding bottles on the lees for 6 to 8 years.

See:
Champagne– An Introduction, France
Visit and Tasting at Champagne Jean Josselin, a Grower Champagne House in Gyé­ sur­ Seine – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagne House AR Lenoble in Epernay, with Christian Holthausen - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Types of Champagne

The type of Champagne producer can be identified from the abbreviations followed by the official number on the bottle:

NM: Négociant manipulant. These companies (including the majority of the larger brands, such as: Ayala, Billecart-Salmon, Bollinger, Canard-Duchêne, Deutz, Heidsieck & Co., Henriot, Krug, Lanson, Laurent-Perrier, Moët et Chandon, Mumm, Perrier-Jouët, Joseph Perrier, Piper Heidsieck, Pol Roger, Pommery, Louis Roederer, Ruinart, Salon, Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot) buy grapes (hence négociant) and make Champagne themselves (hence manipulant).

CM: Coopérative de manipulation. Cooperatives that make Champagne from the growers who are members, with all the grapes pooled together.

RM: Récoltant manipulant. (Also known as Grower Champagne) A grower that makes Champagne from its own grapes.

RC: Récoltant coopérateur. A co-operative member selling Champagne produced by the co-operative under his or her own name and label.

SR: Société de récoltants. An association of growers making a shared Champagne but who are not a co-operative.

ND: Négociant-Distributeur. . A wine merchant selling Champagne under his own name, but not producing it.

MA: Marque auxiliaire or Marque d'acheteur. Increasingly common, such wines are essentially own-brand Champagnes, bottled for specific retailers under a specific label (usually owned by the retailer), usually produced by a co-operative.

Pictures: Jean Pierre Josselin, Annette Schiller and Gisela Leon. See: Visit and Tasting at Champagne Jean Josselin, a Grower Champagne House in Gyé­ sur­ Seine – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Cuvée de Prestige

The Cuvée de Prestige is the top of a producer's range. Famous examples include Louis Roederer's Cristal, Laurent-Perrier's Grand Siècle, Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, Duval-Leroy's Cuvée Femme and Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. The first prestige cuvée was Moët & Chandon's Dom Pérignon, launched in 1936 with the 1921 vintage. Then came Taittinger's Comtes de Champagne (first vintage 1952), and Laurent-Perrier's Grand Siècle 'La Cuvée' in 1960, a blend of three vintages (1952, 1953, and 1955) and Perrier Jouet's 'La Belle Epoque'.

History

Champagne first gained world renown because of its association with the French Court. Royalty from throughout Europe spread the message of the unique sparkling wine from Champagne and its association with luxury and power in the 17th, 18th and 19th century.

The Ruinart Champagne House was the first Champagne House founded in 1729, soon followed by Taittinger (1734), Moët et Chandon (1743), Veuve Clicquot (1772) and others.

See:
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)
Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Crémant

Crémant is a sparkling wine produced in the Méthode Champenoise in France, but not a Champagne. Currently, there are eight appellations in France for sparkling wine which include the designation Crémant in their name:

Crémant d'Alsace
Crémant de Bordeaux
Crémant de Bourgogne
Crémant de Die
Crémant du Jura
Crémant de Limoux
Crémant de Loire
Crémant de Savoie

As a new development in the EU, the Crémant designation has started to appear outside of France, including in Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany.

Spain

Under Spanish Denominación de Origen laws, Cava can be produced in six wine regions (mostly Catalonia) and must be made according to the Traditional Method with second fermentation in the bottle and uses a selection of the grapes Macabeu, Parellada, Xarel·lo, Chardonnay, Pinot noir, and Subirat. Despite being a traditional Champagne grape, Chardonnay was not used in the production of Cava until the 1980s.

Italy

Sparkling wines are made throughout Italy but the Italian sparkling wines most widely seen on the world market are the Franciacorta from Lombardy, Asti from Piedmont, Lambrusco from Emilia and Prosecco from Veneto. Though Franciacorta wines are made according to the traditional method, most Italian sparkling wines, in particular Asti and most Prosecco, are made with the Charmat method.

Franciacorta

Unlike the Champagne region, which can look back to several centuries of fame, Franciacorta’s history is very short. It started only 50 years ago, when Franco Ziliani produced a couple of thousand bottles of a sparkling wine for the Guido Berlucchi winery, which sold very well. It sold so well, that over night, the region of Franciacorta was born and the well-equipped and architecturally varied wineries we know today sprang up within a short period of time to establish the region. Franco Ziliani and Guido Berlucchi are considered to be the fathers of Franciacorta. The name Franciacorta comes from the latin Franchae Curtes, or Monastery-controlled courts that were, thanks to the power of the Church, exempt from the taxes of nearby Brescia.

See:
The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy
The Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta, Italy
The 1 Star Michelin Food of Chef Stefano Cerveni from the due colombe Ristorante and the Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta - Wining and Dining at il Mosnel, Italy

Prosecco

Prosecco,  just as Champagne in neighboring France, is a regional application. Only wine produced in the official Prosecco production zone can be labeled as Prosecco. It can be spumante (sparkling wine), frizzante (semi-sparkling wine), or tranquillo (still wine), depending on the perlage. It is made from Glera grapes, formerly known also as Prosecco, but other grape varieties may be included. The name is derived from that of the Italian village of Prosecco near Trieste, where the grape may have originated.

Prosecco DOC is produced in nine provinces spanning the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. Prosecco Superiore DOCG comes in two varieties: Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG, which can only be made in the Treviso province of Veneto on the hills between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene (north of Treviso), and the smaller Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG, produced near the town of Asolo.

Today, Prosecco has two faces: inside the DOCG territory wines are more and more complex, refined and, inevitably, costly. In the DOC part, simplicity is the goal, yields are higher, and costs are low thanks to mechanisation (flat terrain, no steep hills), all produced in the  Charmat Method.

Prosecco is the main ingredient of the Bellini cocktail and can be a less expensive substitute for Champagne. It is also a key ingredient of spritz, a cocktail popular in northern Italy.

See:
Visiting the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy
Italy's Prosecco

Pictures: At Astoria Vini in the Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy. See: Visiting the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy

Germany

Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. 500 million of the 2 billion bottles of sparkling wine produced in the world is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt. Sekt is made in all German wine regions. All of the 5 production methods are used.

There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt Houses, which only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts.

The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range and made by using the Charmat Method, while the Sekts of smaller estates and winemakers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range, made according to the Méthode Champenoise.

At the top, premium and ultra-premium Sekts are made according to the Méthode Champenoise. To indicate that it is made like Champagne the label says "Traditionelle Flachengährung"/ Traditional Method. One of the rquirements is that it has aged on the lees in the bottle for at least 9 months on the lees.

"Winzersekt" is what is called "Grower Champagne" in Champagne, i.e. the grapes come from the producer's vineyard.

A Winzersekt is always a Deutscher Sekt/ Qualitätsschaumwein b.A. (bestimmter Anbaugebiete), a quality sparkling wine from a protected designation of origin wine region. Regional grape varieties like Riesling, Silvaner, and Pinot Noir are used.

Picture: Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

On the other side of the quality spectrum, you find just "Sekt" on the label, made at least partially from imported wines from Italy, Spain and France. If it says "Deutscher Sekt", the grapes are all from Germany.

There are also lots of semi-sparkling wines (Perlwein), which can range from really cheap to excellent quality wines.

German production of sparkling wines dates back to the early 1800s, when G. C. Kessler & Co. was founded by Georg Christian Kessler, who had previously worked at the Champagne House Veuve Clicquot. Also, many (French) Champagne Houses have German origins, such as Bollinger, Mumm, Taitinger.

See:
German Wine Basics: Sekt
Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralp and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Visit of a Small, Premium Sekt Producer: Sektkellerei Bardong in the Rheingau, Germany – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Pictures: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

England

Production of premium sparklers in England – were vine growing conditions are not that different from the Champagne region - started in the 1960s. Today, there are over 100 producers of sparkling wines.

See:
Nyetimber's Classic Cuvee 2003 from England has been Crowned Champion of Worldwide Sparkling Wines

USA

The United States is an important producer of sparkling wine and has agreed to no longer call its sparklers Champagne, although there is a grandfathering clause. In the US, the history of producing quality sparkling wine goes back to the Korbel brothers, who immigrated from Bohemia on the 1850s. The last decades of the 1900s have seen a wave of foreign investments from some of France’s most prominent Champagne Houses, including Moët et Chandon, Louis Roederer and Taittinger.

See:
As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA
German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US

Picture: Francis, Anton and Joseph Korbel, founders of the Korbel Champagne Cellars in California (Source: Korbel). See: German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

UPCOMING Ombiasy Wine Tours in 2018 to Germany and Alsace (May/ June) and to Bordeaux and Burgundy-Champagne (September)

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at Champagne Jean Josselin, a Grower Champagne House in Gyé­ sur­ Seine – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagne House AR Lenoble in Epernay, with Christian Holthausen - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralp and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Barth Primus is Germany's First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Base Wine

As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

Visit and Tasting at Champagne Jean Josselin, a Grower Champagne House in Gyé­ sur­ Seine – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US

The Amazing Champagnes of the St. Pancras Grand Champagne Bar in London– But no English or Other Sparklers

Champagne in Russia

Barth Primus is Germany's First Sekt Made with an Erstes Gewaechs Base Wine

In the Glass: Volker Raumland Sekt Estate - The Discovery of the Year, Eichelmann 2010

German Wine Basics: Sekt

Nyetimber's Classic Cuvee 2003 from England has been Crowned Champion of Worldwide Sparkling Wines

Visiting Rotkaeppchen-Mumm - the Second Largest Producer of Sparkling Wine in the World - in Freyburg (Saale-Unstrut), Germany

Saint Valentine's Day: French Champagne, German Sekt or Virginia Sparkler!

The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy

The Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta, Italy

The 1 Star Michelin Food of Chef Stefano Cerveni from the due colombe Ristorante and the Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta - Wining and Dining at il Mosnel, Italy

German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US

German Wine Makers in the World: Anton Mueller Invented the Remuage Technique Revolutionizing Sparkling Wine Drinking, 1800s, France

German Wine Makers in the World: Eduard Werle --- Owner of the Veuve Cliquot Champagne house (France)

German Wine Makers in the World: Robert Alwin Schlumberger--the Father of Austrian Sekt (Austria)

Visiting the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Region, Italy

Italy's Prosecco

As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont 
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