schiller-wine

Pictures: Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

With the visit of Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, we honored the Germans' affinity with the bubbly stuff. Did you know that the Germans are world champions in sparkling wine consumption? And that “Rotkäppchen” in Freyburg, in the Saale-Unstrut region is the world’s second largest sparkling wine producer after Freixenet? And that there are many top rated Sekt producers in Germany?

Our visit took us to one of the top notch Sekt (the German word for sparkling wine) producers. According to several life style and wine magazines Sekthaus Raumland is the best of the best.

Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland were our hosts.

Pictures: At Sekthaus Raumland

Sekthaus Raumland

Sekthaus Raumland was founded in 1984 by Volker and Heide-Rose Raumland, after Volker Raumland had finished his oenologie studies at the University of Geisenheim. Initially, Sekthaus Raumland was mostly making Sekt for other German wineries, but right from the beginning only in the méthode traditionnelle.

Picture: Welcome

The top product of the Raumland portfolio is called Triumvirat. It is a cuvée from the single vineyard Dalsheimer Bürgel, which extends just west of the center of Dalsheim. It is made up of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.

Heide-Rose Raumland is from Weingut Wöhrwag in Stuttgart. Her brother Hans-Peter studied togather Volker Raumland in Geisenheim. They have 2 daughters, Marie-Luise and Katharina.

Picture: Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland with their 2 Daughters Marie-Luise and Katharina

Vineyards

Today Sekthaus Raumlan has 10 hectares of vineyards in the Flörsheim-Dalsheim area and produces Sekt in the méthode traditionnelle on par with the quality of the best Champagnes. His philosophy: no mass production, top quality, “small but beautiful”, first class base wines, at least 36 months on the lease. Since 2002 his wine and Sekt estate is certified “AB” for biological agriculture.

Raumland grows his fruit in three different vineyards:

(1) Dalsheim, Rheinhessen with 4.1 ha which is also home base for the estate. These vineyards are planted to Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay;

(2) Hohen-Sülzen, Rheinhessen with 1.5 ha planted 100% to Pinot Noir and

(3) Bockenheim, Pfalz with 4.0 ha located 5km to the south of Dalsheim which is also Volker’s hometown. Riesling from these vineyards is used for Sekt whereas miscellaneous red wine varieties are vinified as still wine.

How Volker Raumland Makes his Sekts

(1) Very careful and painstaking hand selection. The grapes are placed in small 15 kg boxes to assure that none of the fruit is scarred or damaged. Grapes are picked at 75 to 80 Oechlse, the optimum must weight for sparkling wine.

(2) Whole cluster pressing to preserve fruit aromas, no maceration, no mashing and no pumping of the juice.

(3) The “Champagne press program” with a duration of four hours, involves careful segmentation of the juice. The separation involves the first run (5%), the middle run or “heart” (50%) and the last run or taille (10%). To control phenolics the press is stopped after the last run. These figures coincide with champagne where 67% of the juice is used. First run and last run juices are used for the basic Sekts such as Cuvée Marie - Luise and Cuvée Katharina (named after the Raumland’s daughters) as are lower quality portions of the middle run. The better part of the middle run is used for the Prestige varietal Cuvées and the very best for the Grand Cuvee Triumvirat.

(4) The exception to the above is using the Saignée process by bleeding off prefermentation juice to make the Rose Prestige Cuvee (10% Pinot Noir) gathering juice for the Rose Prestige Cuvee (100% Pinot Noir).

(5) The time laps between harvest and the start of fermentation is a maximum of three days. Because of the earlier harvest for champagne grapes, fermentation starts already in September and often goes past November. The Pinot varietals and Chardonnay also go through a malolactic fermentation which lasts anywhere from two to six weeks depending on the PH of the wine ( high PH- fast malolactic, low PH- slow malolactic).

(6) After completion of the fermentation the wine is left on the fine yeast for maximum benefit. The wines are filtered and cold stabilized before Tirage. Tirage involves adding .24 gm/l of sugar and cultured Champagne yeast (sourced from Epernay in Champagne) and capping the bottles with a crown cork. This then starts yet another fermentation capturing CO2 which develops a pressure of six bars in the bottle. They are stored horizontally for maximum yeast contact for a minimum of 12 months to 12 years, depending on the quality of the Sekt.

(7) Four weeks before the Sekt is finished the bottles are hand riddled. After disgorgement a 1.0% dosage of a high quality wine is added to the prestige cuvees and 1/2% dosage to the Tête de Cuvee Triumvirat. The best quality dosage goes to the highest quality Sekt.

(8) The Sekts are stored in a four stories deep cellar to achieve optimum ripeness and “pin point” mousse. The Sekts are continuously monitored and tasted to assure optimum quality. All Sekts, including older vintages are freshly disgorged before they leave the estate.

Pictures: Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Sekt in Germany

Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world, which is not well know around the world. Germans drink lot of sparkling wines, although in general less quality-conscious than the French. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany, roughly 500 million bottles. Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range.

There is a dozen or so large Sekt houses. Most of these large Sekt houses were established in the 1800s. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the champagne houses, the large Sekt houses have all moved to the charmat method as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the champagne houses, Sekt houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from winemakers.

The smaller Sekt houses, like the large Sekt houses, do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from winemakers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Increasingly, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little or not dosage (brut or extra but). While the first fermentation typically takes place at the winery, the second fermentation is often not in the cellar of the winemaker but in the cellar of a Sekt house that bottle-ferments for other wineries.

Raumland belongs to the third group but is kind of unique in Germany. Raumland makes a bit of still wine but is clearly focusing on his world class Sekts. The Raumland Sekts are like Champagnes, without copying them, feels the Eichelmann 2010.

Pictures: Heide-Rose Raumland

Raumland in the US: Rudi Wiest Selections

In the US, Raumland is available through Rudi Wiest Selections.

Rudi Wiest: Simply the finest sparkling wine producer in Germany. Founded in 1990 by Volker Raumland whose heart and soul is invested in making great Sekt. Every year, year in year out Volker produces 3 to 5 of the top 10 sparkling wines in Germany according to the Gault-Millau/German Wine Guide. His basic cuvees carry the names of his daughters – Cuvee Marie-Louise (100% Pinot Noir) – benchmark of refinement and purity, Cuvee Katherina Blanc de Noir (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) more power, more structure, dense and creamy with a touch of oak. The above Sekts rival and easily surpass NV Champagnes and offer better pricing. His top selections are sensational sparkling wines that keep pace with the best Tête de Cuvees in Champagne. The estate uses organic vineyard practices. Production is 7,000 cases annually.

Pictures: Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Jamie Goode and Treve Ring Explore Sekt, Germany's Sparkling Wine - Raumland

Jamie Goode and Treve Ring: Raumland focuses solely on traditional method sparkling wine. It seems that the best Sekt producers are the ones who just do fizz, because it requires a particular way of thinking.

Whereas some Sekt producers are looking to make fruity sparkling wines that express that side of Riesling, Raumland is looking to make something more complex, and more akin to vintage Champagne. He has planted mainly Pinot Noir, along with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, though also works with Riesling and Pinot Blanc. ‘I hate primary fruit in sparkling,’ says Raumland, ‘and I love the toast and bread notes from long ageing on the lees.’ His wines have a minimum 3 years on the lees for first tier. Prestige is minimum 6 years on the lees, while his vintage level is 10 years on the lees or more. He adds, ‘We are a young company but we are still very traditional.’ Raumland is critically considered to be one of the top quality Sekt producers in Germany.

What we Tasted

Tradition

NV Raumland Riesling Brut
NV Raumland Cuvée Marie-Louise Brut

Wine Curmudgeon (Posted 14 Sep 2015): German sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne style? How much wine geekier does it get? Not much, but the Raumland Marie-Luise is well worth the trouble to find and the price you will pay.

The amazing thing about the Raumland Marie-Luise ($40, sample, 12%) is not that it’s well made, but that it’s such a value, even at $40. I’ve tasted Champagne (before the boycott) at that price and even $20 more that wasn’t as pleasurable to drink — mass market plonk at high-end prices. The Raumland is made with pinot noir, astonishing in itself given the rarity and inconsistency of German pinot, but even more so given the wine’s subtlety and style. This is not an oaky, yeasty sparkling bomb, but a wine with fine, tight bubbles, hints of berry fruit, an almost spice-like aroma, and bone dry.

Highly recommended, though it may be difficult to find. If you can, serve it on its own (chilled, of course) or with seafood and chicken. We had it with a shrimp boil during the infamous wine samples dinner, and the Raumland was gone in minutes. This is also a fine gift for any open-minded sparkling wine drinker.

NV Raumland Cuvée Katharina Brut

Jamie Goode: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with some oak in the base wine fermentation. Very pure, direct nose. Lovely pear and apple fruit character here with a touch of toastiness. Some warm herbal notes. Ripe and fruity with a bit of toasty development. Nice fruit expression.

Treve Ring: Salty, with fine earth, savoury biscuit and cherry notes hallmarking this Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier blend. Cherry and pear dominate, and a fine line of acid holds the whole taught to the toasty finish. Lovely balance. Disgorged march 2016. 89/100

Prestige

2012 Raumland Rosé Prestige Brut
2010 Raumland Pinot Prestige Brut
2008 Raumland Riesling Prestige Brut

Jamie Goode: The malolactic stopped half-way, so we have 10.2 g of acid and 6 g of residual sugar here. Single vineyard in Pfalz. Limestone soils. Linear, pure and tight with astonishing acidity. Subtle waxy hints indicate the age of the wine, with a hint of cheese and toast, but the driving force is piercing lemony fruit. Tangy and bright with some ripe apple notes, too. So distinctive. 91/100

2009 Raumland Blanc de Blanc Prestige Brut
2011 Raumland Chardonnay Prestige Brut

2009 Raumland IX Triumvirat - Grande Cuvée Brut

Jamie Goode: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, first made in 2001. Less than 3 g/l sugar and acidity around 7. 6 years on lees, 6 months on cork. Some of the wine is fermented in barrels, mostly barriques, but also some 350 litre barrels. Lively, powerful, pithy and a bit waxy with very bold citrus and pear notes, as well as honey and almond notes. Very linear with good acidity. Has real precision and depth with some red cherry and pear on the finish. 91/100

Treve Ring: The Triumvirat Grand Cuvee is a brut blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, and a premium bottling from Raumland. Light smoke, light biscuit and fennel is broken by crunchy acidity and large flake sea salt. The palate leads with lox and toasty spice before introducing light cherry and red pear, finishing with a raspy, almost assertive acidity. Fermented in barriques and barrels before more than 7 years on the lees, this could pass for a decent supermarket-bottled Champagne in a blind tasting. 91/100

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland for a most enjoyable tasting of your world class sparklers.

Picture: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

The annual “New German Vintage Tasting" of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) around February/March/April, led by Phil Bernstein, is always a highlight for the German wine aficionados in the Washington DC area. Phil Bernstein is very entertaining and knowledgeable about German wine. He is in charge of German wines at MacArthur Beverages, one of the best German wine retailers in the country.

This year again, we had a full house, with 71 people having signed up and paid US45/ US$55 (members/ non-members) for the tasting. Thank you very much Phil for a great event.

Pictures: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

Invitation

Phil Bernstein, German wine buyer, MacArthur Beverages: I'd like to invite you to attend my yearly new vintage tasting with the German Wine Society. We've selected some of the best wines of the vintage and for those of you that haven't attended; this is always a fun event. We keep it light and have lots of great back and forth banter. The wines are the stars of the show, and if you're not too familiar with German wine, this will be a great learning opportunity. If you haven't already heard, 2016 is a fantastic vintage for the great Rieslings of Germany-you do not want to miss this! -Phil Bernstein, German wine buyer, MacArthur Beverages

Picture: Invitation

German Wine Society: Dear German Wine Society Members and Guests, Every year we host a tasting to try wines from the new vintage, with a focus on Riesling. Our host is Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages, one of the leading retailers of German Riesling in the country. The new vintage is 2016, which David Schildknecht found “deliciously drinkable” and Terry Theise describes as “nearly perfect”, providing “repeated inputs of joy, sheer joy, and grinning, giddy, animal joy.” Please join us as we try the wines and write our own reviews.

Sekt, Grosses Gewächs (GG), Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese

MacArthur's German wine portfolio represents very well the traditional, classic German wine selection in the US market: Heavy on wines from the Mosel region, heavy on Riesling and heavy on wines with residual sweetness. Accordingly, except for the Sekt, all the wines we tasted were Rieslings, 6 of the 12 wines were from the Mosel region. 8 fruity-sweet Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese wines were at the center of the tasting. Preceeding the Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese flights, Phil poured a Sekt and a Grosses Gewächs (GG) flight. The 2 GGs were by far the most expensive wines of the tasting.

Pictures: The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: Vintage 2016 Tasting with Phil Bernstein

As in previous years, Phil Bernstein did not present any red wines. Indeed, the MacArthur portfolio includes only a negligible number of red wines. Yet, about 1/3 of the Germany’s wine output is red wine. Germany has become one of the leading Pinot Noir producers in the world. At a recent Decanter (the British wine journal) tasting of Pinot Noirs around the world excluding Burgundy, a German Pinot Noir from the Ahr region (Weingut Jean Stodden) was selected as the best wine. But the US market is very slow in discovering what Germany now has to offer in terms of premium and ultra-premium red wines. German red wines are difficult to find in the US. Hopefully, this will change.

As in previous years, Phil Bernstein showed only Rieslings. Yet, Riesling accounts for only 1/3 of the German white wine production. 2/3 is accounted for by other grape varieties. Among the non-Riesling grape varieties, Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) are increasingly being planted. Why bother with these other grape varieties, many German wine lovers in the US say. But Germany has become the #1 Pinot Blanc producer in the world and the #2 Pinot Gris producer in the world (as well as the #3 Pinot Noir producer in the world).

Pictures: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) President Carl Willner and David Wendler, Event Organizer

Stephen Bitterolf contra Phil Bernstein, New York contra Washington DC, and German Wines in the 21 Century

A few weeks ago, at Stephen Bitterolf's Rieslingfeier Vintage 2016 Grand Tasting in New York, the 44 wines poured were quite different from the wines Phil Bernstein poured: The large majority were dry wines (27 wines). Only 17 wines were fruity-sweet Kabinett and Spätlese wines. 6 of the 13 winemakers present poured only dry wines. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

World class Mosel producer Constantin Richter says: "NYC is not DC. As Germany is a predominantly dry country with a few emerging sweet spots, the US remains a predominantly sweet country with a few emerging dry spots (mainly the New York, Chicago and San Francisco areas)".

A few months ago, at the Annual Meeting of the American Wine Society, Annette Schiller led a tasting seminar that she called "German Wines in the 21st Century" (See: German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)). At this tasting, she poured 4 German wines: 2 red wines and 4 white wines, all dry and only one a Riesling.

Pictures: Phil Bernstein

ombiasy WineTours

Most of the winemakers presented by Phil Bernstein I know personally and have visited their wineries on an ombiasy Germany wine tour. Annette Schiller offers 3 wine tours to Germany: Germany-North, Germany-East and Germany-South. See:

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Picture: Annette Schiller, Phil Bernstein and Christian Schiller. See: The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

Tasting

Most of the wines were available at the tasting for a special price, which I put in parentheses.

Pictures: Tasting

Vintage 2016 in Germany (Terry Theise)

Terry Theise (See: Therry Theise’s Best German Wines and Winemakers– Vintage 2016): ... 2016 does not appear to have a dark side. At least where I tasted, it is almost never not delicious, almost never ungainly, unbalanced or unappealing. I can hardly remember a more adorable vintage. I don’t know where I’d place it on some grid of profundity or Solemn Importance. Neither do I care. I was too blasted by repeated inputs of joy, sheer joy, grinning, giddy, animal joy. But, not merely animal. Because this vintage can address the most humane, civilized, decent and grateful parts of us. It never clamors or fusses for our attention. It never preens or puts on some gaudy show. It doesn’t get its freak on because it doesn’t seem to have a freak at all. It is, instead, calmly and serenely delicious. Actually, fucking delicious. It is a medium-weight vintage and its weight is elegantly and gracefully dispersed. It is graceful overall, and also lithe, limber and lissome. It is strong when it needs to be, but it measures its strength judiciously and with restraint. It shows every aspect of superb German Riesling, but doesn’t emphasize any at the expense of the others....

Starter: Sekt - Messmer Rosé Brut

2010 Messmer Spätburgunder Sekt Rosé Brut (US$42)

Weingut Herbert Messmer
Pfalz
28 hectares
40% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder, 10% Pinot Blanc, 10% Pinot Gris
All dry
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes
VDP

Sekt in Germany: Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt Houses that only make Sekt and (iii) wine makers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt Houses tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range.

See also: German Wine Basics: Sekt

Weingut Messmer was founded in 1960 when Herbert Messmer purchased the historical estate and took over the vineyards and winery. In 1984, the winery was taken over by son Gregor Messmer. Weingut Messmer is nestled in the forested slopes of the Haardt Mountains in the southern Pfalz. Vineyard area: 25 hectares. Annual production: 26,700 cases.

Picture: Martin Messmer, Wei ngut Herbert Messmer,in Berlin. See: Chinese Food and German Wine at the Hot Spot in Berlin: 5 VDP Winemakers Pour their Wines

Terry Theise: Without question the most wacked-out gorgeous weirdo-wine in this offering. The base wine ferments in used barrique and ages six months before tirage. It spends three-plus years on the lees and emerges as a serious wine that tastes for all the world like a Vilmart Cuvée Rubis, without quite the elegance and polish of the Champagne. Hibiscus and rhubarb jelly, echoes of wood, a finishing kiss of rosewater. Defeat even the most cocky blind taster! Amaze your somm pals! Put something on your list that no one else has, or even dreamed of! And finally, serve a three-eyed alien wine that’s not only without flaws: it also tastes good! As the wine is disgorged as-needed every few months, this final contingent has had really long lees time— four-plus years. We bought all the rest of it; the wine is indelible and amazing.

Flight #1: Two of the vintage’s best dry wines - Schäfer Fröhlich Felseneck Grosses Gewächs (GG) and Rebholz Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs (GG)

Like last year, a Grosses Gewächs (GG) flight figured prominently in Phil Bernstein’s tasting. GGs is the new category of ultra-premium wines dry wines of VDP producers, the association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany.

What is a GG? In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach. With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

To qualify for the Grosses Gewächs label, a number of criteria need to be respected. (i) The fruit has to come from a Grosse Lage vineyard. (ii) At harvest, the grapes need to be at least at Spätlese level in terms of the sugar content. (iii) Only certain – typical - grape varieties are allowed, including Riesling and Spätburgunder. (iv) Further restrictions apply: there are yield restrictions; only hand picking of grapes is permitted and harvest must be late in the autumn.

2016 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Kastanienbusch, Riesling, trocken, GG (US$97)

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz

Pfalz
23 hectares
40% Riesling, 20% Spätburgunder, 15% Pinot Blanc
All dry
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: The Table of Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz, at the Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York City, with Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Hansjörg Rebholz. See: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2016 Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich, Felseneck, Riesling, trocken, GG (US$80)

Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich
Nahe
21 hectares
85% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Christian Schiller and Tim Fröhlich in Wiesbaden

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Flight #2: Two of Germany’s top young guns - Carl Loewen Maximiner Herrenberg Kabinett and Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Kabinett

2016 Weingut Carl Loewen Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Kabinett (US$22)

Weingut Carl Loewen
Mosel
15 hectares
96% Riesling
Mainly sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes

Terry Theise: Ungrafted, planted 1903—terribly young, I know—and it sits upslope from the Maximiner Herrenberg, whence the 1896 bottlings arise. It reminds me of a Merkelbach wine only richer, or like Christoffel but not so glossy, not so formed. Ginger and quince, an endless call-and-response among Spring flowers, wild herbs, licorice and key lime. I know you won’t mind my pointing out that if you were offered a wine from a great vineyard from ungrafted 113-year old vines, and that wine came from France, Italy or Spain, you would pay a fuckload more money for it. You don’t mind if I say that, do you?

2016 Weingut Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Kabinett (US$25)

Weingut Dönnhoff
Nahe
28 hectares
80% Riesling, 20% Pinot Blanc and Gris
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Christian Schiller with Helmut Dönnhoff, Weingut Hermann Dönnhoff

Picture: Annette Schiller, Helmut Dönnhoff and daughter Christina Dönnhoff (Weingut Dönnhoff) and Didier Cuevlier (Chateau Leoville Poyferre) at Weingut Dr. Robert Weil

Pictures: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Flight #3: Two of the vintage’s best Kabinetts - AJ Adam Hofberg Kabinett and Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett

2016 Weingut AJ Adam Dhron Hofberg Kabinett (US$30)

Weingut AJ Adam
Mosel
5 hectares
100% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 3/5 grapes

2016 Weingut Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett (US25)

Weingut Vollenweider
Mosel
5 hectares
100% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 4/5 grapes

Flight #4: JJ Prum ‘nuff said! - JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett and JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese

2016 Weingut JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (US$33)
2016 Weingut JJ Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (US$40)

Weingut JJ Prüm
Mosel
20 hectares
100% Riesling
Only sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Justerini and Brooks (UK): Manfred Prüm runs one of the Mosel’s, if not the whole of Germany’s, most revered and respected Estates. It is also amongst the most enigmatic as no-one has yet made it down to his mysterious cellars. Manfred is certainly one of the world’s more eccentric wine producers and a tasting in his drawing room with him is always enjoyable and entertaining. In the Sonnenuhr of Wehlen he owns a portion of one of the Mittel Mosel’s top vineyards. Its steep south-facing dark slate slopes tend to result in deeply flavoured, mineral yet rich and smoky wines. In addition, he manipulates some plots in the next door Himmelreich of Graacher which produces engaging wines with fresh acidities that are slightly softer and earlier maturing. These are unashamedly classic, exciting and long-lived wines produced predominantly in stainless tanks to avoid the addition of too much sulphur, though a small proportion of wooden casks are retained, however, depending on the vintage. They are bottled later than most Mosel and often take a few years in bottle before showing the true character, but patience will be rewarded!

Pictures: Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Picture: Christian Schiller with Katharina Pruem at Wegmans in Virginia. See: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Picture: Annette Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem, at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich

Flight #5: Super Spatlese - Schäfer Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese GK and Keller Abtserde Spätlese

2016 Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese GK (US$50)

Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich
Nahe
21 hectares
85% Riesling
Both dry and sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

2016 Weingut Keller Abtserde Spätlese

Weingut Keller
Rheinhessen
16 hectares
60% Riesling, 30% Pinot Noir, Blanc and Gris
Riesling G-Max is the most expensive dry white wine in Germany
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 5/5 grapes (18 producers)
VDP

Picture: Annette Schiller and Klaus Peter Keller, Weingut Keller. See: VDP.Rheinhessen Invited to a Gala Dinner: The World Class Wines of the VDP.Rheinhessen Winemakers and the World Class Food of Philipp Stein (1 Star Michelin, Favorite), with Klaus Peter Keller, Philipp Wittmann, H.O.Spanier, Caroline Gillot-Spanier and Other Rheinhessen Stars

Picture: Annette Schiller,Julia and Klaus Peter Keller at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York, see: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Flight #6: Yet another Selbach masterpiece - Selbach Oster Schlossberg Riesling Schmitt

2016 Weingut Selbach Oster Schlossberg Riesling Schmitt (US$53)

Weingut Selbach Oster
Mosel
22 hectares
97% Riesling
Mainly sweet-style wines
Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018: 4/5 grapes

Picture: Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach. See: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Picture: Johannes and Barbara Selbach, Weingut Selbach Oster, and Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, in New York at the 2015 Rieslingfeier.

Picture: Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach Oster, and Riesling Guru Paul Grieco in New York City at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting. See: Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Johannes Selbach in New York. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

Previous Years'“New German Vintage” Tastings of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter)

For previous years, see:

The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: 2015 German Vintage Tasting with Phil Bernstein, USA

Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages Presents the new Vintage (2014) to the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA/ Germany

German Riesling - What the American Market Wants: Vintage 2013 Tasting with German Wine Expert Phil Bernstein, MacArthur Beverages, Washington DC

The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

German Wine: Tasting with Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages the 2011 Vintage in Washington DC, USA

The 2010 Vintage Tasting of the German Wine Society (Aaron Nix-Gomez)

Phil Bernstein’s Third Annual German Riesling Tasting with the German Wine Society, Washington DC Chapter - Rieslings With a Touch of Sweetness

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

German Wines in the 21st Century - A Tasting Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller (ombiasyPR & WineTours)

Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

German Wine Basics: Sekt

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

VDP.Rheinhessen Invited to a Gala Dinner: The World Class Wines of the VDP.Rheinhessen Winemakers and the World Class Food of Philipp Stein (1 Star Michelin, Favorite), with Klaus Peter Keller, Philipp Wittmann, H.O.Spanier, Caroline Gillot-Spanier and Other Rheinhessen Stars

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Chinese Food and German Wine at the Hot Spot in Berlin: 5 VDP Winemakers Pour their Wines

Picture: Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Groebe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Groebe

We started the day with a tasting at Germany's #1 sparkling wine producer, Sekthaus Raumland, in Flörsheim-Dalsheim/ Rheinhessen, followed by a visit of Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen/ Rheinhessen. We had lunch at Metzger und Gasthaus Deutsches Haus in Westhofen. After lunch we went to Weingut Groebe, just opposite to Weingut Wittmann. We stayed overnight at the Hilton in Mainz.

We had a light dinner and more wine at Ladendorfs Weinhaus in Mainz. Roland Ladendorf's wine tavern has by far the best selection of German premium and ultra-premium wines among the many wine taverns in Mainz. Roland is a wine expert.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Fritz Groebe at Kloster Eberbach (2012)

At Weingut Groebe, Fritz Groebe showed us the winemaking facilities before sitting down in the stylish family room for a tasting of Weingut Groebe wines, accompagnied by delicious home-made food, including Spundekäs.

Picture: Weingut Groebe

Weingut Groebe

Weingut Groebe has as a long tradition. it was founded in the early 1600s. Weingut Groebe ist in Westhofen/ Rheinhessen, opposite to Weingut Wittmann. The estate used to be split between Biebesheim (headquarter, bottling line, warehouse) and Westhofen (vineyards and fermentation cellar). Friedrich Groebe built a new production hall in 2012 and moved everything next to his vineyard.

Pictures: Arriving

Today, the vineyard area totals 8 hectares, including holdings in the famous Aulerde, Kirchspiel, Morstein and Steingrube. Two-thirds of the area is planted with Riesling, the remainder with Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Silvaner, Scheurebe and Portugieser.

Fritz Groebe believes that good wine needs philosophy and craftsmanship, but not technology.

Along these lines, organic vineyard practices are followed, including the use of cover crops. No herbicides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers are used. Due to strong pruning of the vines in spring, the renunciation of mineral fertilization and the similar natural greening of the rows of vines, a competition arises in the vineyard. The vine suffers and searches for its food in the deeper layers of the soil.

Musts undergo spontaneous fermentation, with slow, cool fermentation being a hallmark. The wines are matured along traditional lines, exclusively in large oak vats (Stückfässer.

The wines are marketed in three ranges: Grosse Lage wines (Grosses Gewächs and sweet predicate wines from Spätlese level upwards), village wines (from Westhofen) and estate wines (Groebe á la Carte).

Weingut Groebe is a member of the VDP (Verband deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter), the association of about 200 German elite producers.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Groebe

VDP: Weingut K.F. Groebe

Weingut K.F. Groebe has been in the family's hands for more than 250 years. Friedrich and Manuela Groebe cultivate nearly nine hectares of vines in Westhofen, concentrated in renowned sites such as AULERDE, KIRCHSPIEL and MORSTEIN. 2012 saw WEINGUT K.F. GROEBE return to its traditional home of Westhofen. Friedrich Groebe’s signature wine style reflects his own distinctive mix of organic cultivation, spontaneous fermentation and barrel aging. The winemaker's pride and joy: long-lived, nobly sweet Rieslings of international repute. His wines undergo an extended maturation on the lees before being bottled. Patience, intuition and attention are the keys to managing maturation, not unnecessary interventions or high tech solutions. This approach gives Groebe the flexibility for targeted stylistic exploration, with an eye toward better expression of the individual vintage and the larger German Riesling tradition. It requires an unflagging pioneer spirit, yet opens up the freedom to create wines entirely in line with his own confident vision.

Weingut Groebe at a Glance

Owner: Friedrich Groebe

Winemaker: Friedrich Groebe

Outside Manager: Friedrich Groebe

VDP member since 2000

Bottle production: 55 000

Grape varieties: 70% Riesling, 10% Silvaner, 10% Grauburgunder, 8% Spätburgunder and others
Soil: Lössboden mit Gehängelehm & tonigen, kiesigen Sanden im Untergrund (Aulerde), Kalksteinverwitterungsboden & Tonmergel (Kirchspiel, Morstein)

Vineyards: AULERDE, Westhofen. VDP.GROSSE LAGE, MORSTEIN, Westhofen, VDP.GROSSE LAGE, KIRCHSPIEL, Westhofen, VDP.GROSSE LAGE

Tasting

After the winery tour, we sat down in the stylish family room for a tasting of Weingut Groebe wines, accompagnied by delicious home-made food, including Spundekäs.

Pictures: Tasting with Fritz Groebe

The Wines we Tasted

2016 Weingut Groebe Riesling 1763

2016 Weingut Groebe Westhofener Riesling trocken

2016 Weingut Groebe Westhofener Riesling Alte Reben

2015 Weingut Groebe Aulerde Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewächs

2012 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling VDP.Grosses Gewächs

2003 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

2004 Weingut Groebe Kirchspiel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

Bye-bye

Thanks Fritz for a wonderful afternoon with you and your wines.

Picture: Bye-bye

Evening: Mainz

After the visit of Weingut Groebe, we drove to Mainz and checked in at the Hilton for the night. We went to Ladendorfs Weinhaus, Roland Ladendorf's wine tavern has by far the best selection of German premium and ultra-premium wines among the many wine taverns in Mainz. Roland is a wine expert. We had another Kirchspiel Riesling GG - this time from Weingut KP Keller.

Picture: The Mainz Cathedral

Picture: Hilton Mainz

Picture: Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau. See: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Dear German Wine Society Members and Guests:

You are in for a very special treat: “Abbey Wines”.

This tasting (and seminar) by our own Annette Schiller will show the decisive impact the monasteries and the monks starting in medieval times had on developing viticultural knowledge in Germany and elsewhere.

Annette Schiller is well known to the GWS community through previous wine tastings and her ombiasy wine tours to Bordeaux, Burgundy and Germany. She has visited almost all of the estates she will present on one or more of her tours and has intimate knowledge of these producers.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Sister Thekla Baumgart of Klosterweingut Sankt Hildegard

Annette will present 12 wines – 8 from Germany, 2 from France, 1 from Austria, 1 from Italy (Alto Aldige) – that are still produced in monasteries. Some monasteries have been secularized and taken over by government entities, some are now in private hands, others are still today run by monks or sisters. The highlight will be the Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot from the Côte d'Or which retails for about US$ 180. In 1336 the monks of Cîteaux – owners of the vineyard site Clos de Vougeot – were the first to notice that different plots gave different wines and therefore laid the earliest foundation of the vineyard classification system.

The monasteries were always a center of intellectual curiosity and thirst for knowledge. The monasteries had huge holdings on farmland and vineyards - mostly gifts of rich aristocrats who at the end of their lives thought to buy a stairway to heaven. The monks had to work in agriculture to sustain their living. Therefore the monks not only focused on religious studies but also on studying better methods in farming and viticulture. The monks were also instrumental in spreading the art of viticulture to other parts of Europe by establishing daughter monasteries all over Europe. Without their work viticulture would not have developed the way it did and would not have become a part of fine living as we know it today throughout the world.

Pictures: Arriving at Château du Clos de Vougeot. See: Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The wines:

01) 2015 Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Markgraf von Baden, Bodensee, Baden

02) 2015 Clos de Vougeot, Pinot Noir, Grand Cru, Burgundy, France

03) NV Crémant, Brut, von Hövel, Mosel

04) 2017 Grauburgunder, Klosterhof Töplitz, Brandenburg, Saale-Unstrut

05) 2015 Saalhäuser Pinot-Blanc, Kloster Pforta, Saale-Unstrut

06) 2016 Eisacktaler Sylvaner, Kloster Neustift, Alto Aldige, Italy

07) 2016 Grüner Veltliner, Stift Klosterneuburg, Wachau, Austria

08) 2016 Riesling, Abtei Sankt Hildegard, Rheingau

09) 2016 Riesling, Weingut Liebfrauenstift, Rheinhessen

10) 2016 Steinberger, Riesling, Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

11) 2016 Riesling, Réserve, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, France

12) 2014 Riesling Goldtröpfchen GG, Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt, Mosel

Picture: Annette Schiller with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow at Weingut von Hövel, a Former Monastery (Mosel). See: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

DATE: Friday, April 20th, Doors open at 7:00 pm; tasting begins at 7:30 pm. Please make reservations by April 16, 2018.

VENUE: Harbour Square Club Room, 500 N St SW, Washington, DC. Marilyn Scarbrough has reserved a few parking spaces, but we cannot guarantee these will be available. The Waterfront Metro Station is nearby.

COST: $40 for members, $47 for non-members.

Cheese and charcuterie will be served. Alcohol consumption can lead to intoxication. GWS members and guests should use public transportation, rely on a designated driver or taxi, or taste the wines rather than finish them.

If you have any questions, please email Christian Schiller at cschiller@schiller-wine.com or Annette Schiller at aschiller@ombiasypr.com

Attendance will need to be limited to 46 people. Make your reservation early.

Paying by PayPal: http://germanwinesocietydc.org/shop/

Paying by check: Mail your check, made out to the ‘German Wine Society’, along with the completed form below, to:

Joseph L. Aguiar

2501 Calvert St NW
Apt 501
Washington, DC 20008

GERMAN WINE SOCIETY Abbey Wines – April 20, 2018, 7:00pm

Member(s) Name__________________________________

Non-Member(s) Name______________________________

Email__________________________________________

Telephone_______________________________________

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (March 1, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Hövel, Saar, with Owner/ Winemaker Maximilian von Kunow - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, was in town (Washington DC) and presented his sparklers at a winemaker dinner at Brasserie Beck. Partner-Chef Brian McBride composed a delicious dinner. The dinner was hosted by zachysDC.

Maison Ruinart

Ruinart is the oldest established Champagne House, exclusively producing Champagne since 1729. Founded by Nicolas Ruinart in Reims/ Champagne, Maison Rinart is today owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA.

An entrepreneur, Nicolas Ruinart realized the ambitions of his uncle, Dom Thierry Ruinart: to make Ruinart an authentic Champagne House. In the period immediately following the 1728 edict of Louis XV, which authorized the transport of wine in bottles, the house was established. Prior to this edict, wine could only be transported in barrels, which made it impossible to send Champagne to distant markets, and confined consumption primarily to its area of production.

Nicolas Ruinart founded the House of Ruinart on September 1, 1729. The first delivery of “wine with bubbles” went out in January, 1730. At first the sparkling wine was a business gift for cloth purchasers, as Dom Ruinart’s brother was a cloth merchant, but 6 years later Maison Ruinart terminated its cloth selling activities due to success in the Champagne business. Since then, the Maison has kept the standards of excellence of its founders.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Founded in 1729, but in 1946 Maison Ruinart was on the verge of disappearing. The two World Wars had not been kind. They owned a mere 17 hectares of vineyard, had a meager 800 cases of wine in their cellars, and just two customers, both in Paris – the grand restaurant, Maxime’s, and an up-scale cathouse, Le Sphinx. Rebuilding was slow, and the Ruinart family, lacking resources, concentrated on the domestic market where today it’s a respected brand. It also ranks somewhere in the mid-teens in world sales, but is barely known in America.

Now owned by the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, it has been overshadowed by company's larger names: Dom Pérignon, Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. This is not necessarily an oversight – with it’s distinctive style and small production it’s not suited to the high profile marketing efforts deployed by the marquis names, “Five years ago we were barely in the US market” Frédéric Panaïotis explained during the dinner.

Not wanting to be too dependent on the French market, they have recently launched an expansion of their American presence. A discrete expansion. No supermarkets or nightclubs, and they’re steering well clear of Vegas. What they’re aiming for is placement in select restaurants and specialty wine shops, the sort of outlets that afford exposure to discerning consumers with sophisticated, developed palates who pay more attention to what’s in the bottle than on the label.

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Owner-Chef Robert Wiedmaier at Brasserie Beck

Ruinart's cellars, acquired in 1768, are amongst the largest in the region, and are Gallo-Roman in origin. Like most Champagne cellars, they are the product of ancient chalk mining, and extend 38 metres below the ground and are 8 km long. The chalk helps to keep the cellars at a constant 11 degrees Celsius. The chalk pits were classified as a historic monument in 1931.

There’s a dominance of Chardonnay in the house style, elegance outweighing power. Ruinart’s prestige cuvée range is Dom Ruinart, which includes a Blanc de Blanc made from Grand Cru Chardonnay and a Rosé. The Ruinart bottle is inspired by the first champagne bottles of the 18th century.

Champagne produces about 300 million bottles of Champagne each year. Ruinart 2.5 million; Bollinger 2.5 million; Dom Perignon 5 millio; Krug 500,000 bottles; Laurent Perrier 7 million; Louis Roederer 3.2 million; Moet & Chandon 26 million; Taittinger 5 million; Veuve Clicquot 10 million.

Frédéric Panaïotis

Frédéric Panaïotis was borne and grew up in Reims/ Champagne. He graduated from ENSA Montpellier and INSEAD. Frédéric Panaïotis worked at Scharffenberger Cellars in California and for 12 years at Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. He joined Ruinart in 2007 as Chef de Caves.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Frédéric Panaïotis

Interview of Frédéric Panaïotis with Adam Lechmere
Posted Tuesday, 28-Apr-2015

How did you get into wine?

I was raised in Champagne – my grandparents had vineyards. I picked grapes to earn a bit of money, and loved to see the way the wine was made, but I had no intention of going into the wine business. Until I was 18 I wanted to be a vet. I loved animals, and I wanted to be a very specific vet, in a zoo, to work with tigers, lions, elephants – all the big animals.

You were serious about that as a career?

Yes, but it was difficult to study as a vet in France and my teacher told me I should do biology as a backup, so I went to the Institut National Agronomique in Paris. Then I had to make a choice, so I was debating between fish farming and genetics and then, at Christmas 1984 or 85, when I was 21, my uncle opened a bottle of 1976 Richebourg from Gros. That was my first "wow" wine. It was amazing. So I went back to school in Paris and found there was a winemaking course, and I thought: "That's what I want to do." Not only for the products, but for the people as well. I knew that was the environment I wanted to be in.

So the wine that got you started was a Burgundy. When did you decide you wanted to make Champagne?

Never! I wanted to get away from my region. My dream was to be in Bordeaux or some place in the sun. I went to work in California [at Scharffenberger], in Minervois, and in the Rhône Valley, but eventually I ended up back in Champagne, which I don't regret at all.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

What do you find most rewarding about making Champagne?

In terms of winemaking, the complexity of the process is very interesting. Understanding the second fermentation phase, the anticipation. Every year is so different, yet we have to make 95 per cent of the wines the same as the year before. I find that challenge very exciting. And I also like the fact that you are less important than the house. If I ask you who made the 2002 you would have no idea, and I know that in 2030 my name will be forgotten. The winemaker just has to maintain the consistency of the style. And that's it.

But – mentioning no names – there are some showmen in Champagne?

Of course. We have to travel, and talk about the wines. But my colleagues are no different to me. I can guarantee they all consider themselves secondary to the house. Look at Richard Geoffroy [the celebrated chef de cave of Ruinart's sister house Dom Pérignon]. He absolutely embodies the style. He even looks like a monk – you couldn't get any closer to Dom Pérignon than that.

Ruinart has always been the most modest of Champagne houses, hasn't it?

That's both true and not true. In France, it was the Champagne everyone has heard of – in a poll last year of 1600 people, they asked what is their ideal Champagne. Ruinart was number one by far. It was named spontaneously by 57 percent of people, before [Veuve] Clicquot, and then Roederer.

And abroad?

Historically, Ruinart was really damaged in the First World War, then the Depression and the Second World War. When Bertrand Mure took over [in 1947] he had no money, no stock, a few vineyards and no cash, so he looked to France to revive the market. Export was less than 30 percent of sales until a few years ago, while most Champagne houses are 90 percent export.

What about the US market?

It's responding very well – it's about three per cent of sales so there is a lot of room to grow, but we don't want to be in Costco or the big chains. We want to be with the right accounts in the right states. Some cities respond better than others – Las Vegas, for example, isn't doing well. Despite the fact they have the highest number of Master Sommeliers in the world, the average knowledge of consumers is not very high. Americans are not very adventurous so they will go for Dom Pérignon or Clicquot before Ruinart.

Can you talk a bit about recent vintages in Champagne – which are the best and worst?

There are no great vintages, only great bottles. Seriously – in Champagne we are worried about global warming, but it's helped us in a way. That, plus our knowledge of the vineyard, and the knowledge of winemaking. We used to be able to have a vintage three years out of 10, but now it's more like one year in 10 that you can't make a vintage. Maybe it's lowered the value of the idea of vintage.

Pictures: Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Ruinart was the odd one out in 2012. Most houses considered it excellent but you didn't. Why was that?

2012 remains a mystery to me. The Chardonnay grapes were the best I have ever seen in my life; mature, healthy, great yield, everything was perfect. But when we tasted in October I thought there was something wrong with my nose, as the wine wasn't expressing anything. We were very disappointed by it. Everyone said what a fantastic vintage it was, and I thought I must have messed up something. So we didn't make anything that year.

Is there anywhere else you could make sparkling wine as well as in Champagne?

There are cool-climate regions where you can make sparkling wine as good as most Champagnes, but with the great regions of the world there is often a level where you can't compete. You can find excellent sparkling wine but there is no wine to match the quality of the prestige cuvée.

Is that terroir or winemaking expertise?

It's terroir: soil and climate, and collective knowledge. It's not the technique – you can have the best winemaker in the world but if you haven't got the land you can't make great wine. It's the grasp of the land and how to interpret it. That takes many years and it can't be replicated.

Do you think you're going to stay in Champagne for the rest of your career?

When you join a company like Ruinart you stay there. I told my boss, if you want me to stay I will stay – I'll stay until 2029 and drink those 1929 bottles. If I have to move, I've thought about making my own wine, not necessarily Champagne, but in a place where it’s easy to sell – the hardest part is selling, not making. I don't want to kill the romance but I'm pragmatic.

When you're not making wine, what do you do to relax?

I'm a free diving instructor – I haven't been exercising recently but, a few years ago, I could stay down for five minutes. A lot of it is in here [taps head]. You have to be super-relaxed and zen. I don't compete at the top level – they go down 100 meters and I can do 36m. That's not bad. It's the depth of the Crayères [the famous chalk cellars] at Ruinart.

Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart

Canapé

Buckweat Blini, Crème Fraîche, Trout Roe

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs

First Course

Pan Seared Maine Scallops
Red & Yellow Pepper Coulis
Aged Sherry Shallot Essence

NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs Magnum

Second Course

Pan Seared Duck Breast
Caramelized Onions, Soubise
Wild Rice Cake, Tarragon Essence

NV Ruinart Rosé

Third Course

Ossau Iraty, Sheep's Milk
Mâche & Green Apple Salad

2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

Chef Brian McBride

Zachy's/ Ruinart Dinner

Zachy's: Earlier this week, we joined Ruinart’s Chef de Cave, Frederic Panaiotis, to taste through the current releases of Blanc de Blancs, Brut Rosé, and 2006 Dom Ruinart Brut. As we’ve come to expect with Ruinart, each bottle demonstrated the characteristic obsession with vivacity and purity that is the hallmark of this remarkable house. And while all the wines were extraordinary, the 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs stole the show, and top critics around the world are in agreement:

97+ Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous: “The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I tasted point to a Dom Ruinart that is quite a bit more polished and sophisticated than it often is at this stage”

95 Points, James Suckling: “Exquisite, precise and powerful, with plenty of upfront appeal. This has a toasty edge to the nose with brioche and lemon citrus. The palate delivers a smoothly finished texture and sizzling acid finish. A bright, driving 2006. Drink now.”

And the non-vintage wines are not to be overlooked either. With an emphasis on mineral-driven Chardonnay, Ruinart’s NV wines balance brightness and purity with structured, chalky complexity. They remain some of the greatest values and most interesting wines in big house Champagne. “Stylised and uncompromising.... Not for mainstream palates, perhaps, but should satisfy most ardent fizzophiles.” (Richard Hemming, MW)

Don’t miss out on this chance to stock up on some of the greatest Champagnes for spring!

2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut - Sale price: $149.99

97 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A statuesque Champagne, firm and finely knit, with a beautiful array of baked white peach, almond biscotti, pastry cream and crystallized honey flavors riding the silky mousse. A rich and smoky note of toasted brioche echoes on the chiseled finish. Drink now through 2031." 11/17

Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut (375ml) - Sale price: $52.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16

Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut - Sale price: $64.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16

Ruinart - Blanc de Blancs Brut (1.5L) - Sale price: $172.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A finely knit Champagne, this is driven by smoky minerality and layered with a subtle mix of lemon curd, biscuit, Acacia blossom and white peach puree. Long and vibrant on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. 5,232 cases imported." 10/16

Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne (375ml) - Sale price: $49.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17

Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne - Sale price: $68.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17

Ruinart - Brut Rosé Champagne (1.5L) - Sale price: $187.99

92 Points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator: "A fresh and focused rosé Champagne, with a satiny mousse and a subtle streak of smoke underscoring the well-knit flavors of white raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, pastry cream and candied orange zest. Drink now through 2021." 11/17

Brasserie Beck/ Gayot

Brasserie Beck Restaurant Review: Beautiful people cluster at the door, at the bar, and on every available inch of floor space, drinking, nibbling, chatting, and possibly waiting for their seating. What’s the draw? Robert Wiedmaier’s cooking, a delightful and beguiling composite of Belgian and French flavors served forth with American sparkle. The second of his DC restaurants, Brasserie Beck offers topnotch DC dining from the fresh mussels poached in a broth accented with wine, curry, garlic and fennel. You’ll want plenty of the fresh, hot bread for soaking up the poaching broth---either that or a straw. We also suggest the braised pork belly, a wedge of creamy pork roasted until tender and melty. But for starters, nothing tops the roulade of duck confit, a supremely rich offering of braised duck leg meat stirred with pâté and crisped just before serving. Entrées hit all the high marks, from coq au vin and grilled beef steak with green peppercorns to roasted rabbit loin and crispy skate wing, plus a seafood bonanza platter with lobster, oysters, clams and shrimp. But our favorite will always be the choucroute “en croute,” a dish of flaky pastry, pork, sauerkraut and seasonings baked until just fragrant, and ready to devour. Wiedmaier is renowned for his desserts, but none can trump his caramel-rich pear tarte Tatin, a triumph of sweetness over calories. On the other hand, wouldn’t a wedge of caramel cheesecake satisfy the inner glutton? And to top it all, check out the 100 or so Belgian beers on hand.

Pictures: Brasserie Beck

Partner-Chef Brian McBride

Brian McBride, a Newark native, landed his first job as a chef at the Empress Room at the Hyatt in Cambridge, then at the cutting edge of the hot trend that became known as Asian Fusion. After a while, his career with Hyatt brought him to London. A brief break from Hyatt for 3 years found him working in Cuernavaca, Mexico at Las Mañanitas, a Relais & Châteaux property, creating authentic Mexican cuisine. Returning to the Hyatt, he opened The Park Hyatt Washington, DC in 1986 - and stayed on for 26 years, the last 20 of which he served as executive chef, overseeing food service throughout the hotel. He created the celebrated Blue Duck Tavern that took Washington by storm.

Picture: Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

For over the course of all those years, he formed a close bond with fellow chef Robert Wiedmaier, whose career paralleled his own in the Washington hotel world before Wiedmaier opened Marcel's, the #1 restaurant in town, according to Zagat. The friendly rivalry between Marcel's and Blue Duck Tavern for top spot melted away in 2011, when Brian McBride joined Robert Wiedmaier as Partner-Chef.

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Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken.

Juliusspital is Germany’s second largest winery with 180 hectares under vines in the most renowned sites of Franken, and one of the always top rated wineries. The appeal of the wines lies in their fascinating diversity. This winery is part of the charitable foundation Juliusspital, which was founded more than 430 years ago by the Prince-Bishop of Würzburg, Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn, and still today comprises among other institutions a hospital, a hospice, and care facilities for the elderly and the poor. In order to equip the foundation with the necessary financial means Julius Echter founded, among other business entities, a winery to guarantee steady income. The beautiful historical cellars with the old traditional wooden casks are still in use for fermentation and aging.

Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Juliusspital Foundation

Weingut Juliusspital is Germany’s second largest winery with 177 hectares under vines in the most renowned sites of Franken, and one of the always top rated wineries. Weingut Juliusspital is a member of the VDP – the association of about 200 German elite winemakers.

Weingut Juliusspital is a very special winery in that it is owned by and part of the charitable Juliusspital Foundation, which was founded in 1576 by the Prince-Bishop of Würzburg, Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn.

At the center of the Juliusspital Foundation are a hospital, an assisted living home for elderly people and a hospice. This has been so for more than 400 years. Today, the buildings of the Juliusspital Foundation comprise many modern buildings but also very impressive and well maintained historical buildings.

As to the latter, the Fürstenbau, a palatial building, designed by the architect Antonio Petrini built in the Barock style with its historical cellar vaults, its garden pavilion and the fountain statues of Jacob van der Auvera, make the Juliusspital a unique monument of art and culture at the heart of the city of Würzburg. The historical cellars, which we had the opportunity to visit, with the old traditional wooden casks, are still in use for fermentation and aging.

Pictures: Juliusspital Foundation

Pictures: Fürstenbau

Weingut Juliusspital

Since its establishment, the profits of the Weingut Juliusspital have contributed to the financing of the social services of the Juliusspital Foundation. In addition to the vineyard land, the Juliusspital Foundation also owns farm land and forests.

Vineyards: 177 ha (437 acres) all over Franken
Annual production: 1.4 million bottles - all screwcap
Average yield: 63 hl per ha (25 hl per acre)
10% export
60% Bocksbeutel bottles
Grape Varieties: 40 % Silvaner, 25 % Riesling, 6 % Müller-Thurgau

Pictures: In the Cellar

Vineyards and Soil Types

Muschelkalk (shelly limestone): Wines from our sites in Würzburg, Randersacker, Thüngersheim, Volkach and Escherndorf are influenced by medium and upper Muschelkalk. They are elegant, have a fine fruity taste and intense minerality.

Keuper: The deep, dark, fine-grained gypsum Keuper soil around Iphofen and Rödelsee produces a well-defined wine with a herbaceous character and long cellar life.

Red Sandstone: Near Bürgstadt on the Lower Main, the soils are shallow and stony. They are characterised as “fervid”. Fruity, elegant red wines with a pleasant tannin level are produced from the vines grown here.

The top sitesof Weingut Juliusspital are: Würzburger Stein, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg, Volkacher Karthäuser, Randersackerer Pfülben, Rödelseer Küchenmeister and Escherndorfer Lump.

10 percent of the Weingut Juliusspital vineyards are organic.

Tasting

The tour ended with a tasting in one of the rooms of the cellar.

Pictures: Tasting

Here are the wines we tasted:

2016 Juliusspital Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein
2016 WürzburgerMüller-Thurgau trocken VDP.Ortswein
2016 Würzburger Abtsleite Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Ihöfer Kronsberg Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2016 Würzburger Stein Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2015 Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner trocken VDP.Grosse Lage GG
2015 Volkacher Karthäuser Weisser Burgunder trocken VDP.Grosse Lage GG

Lunch at the Juliusspital Tavern

Following the tour and tasting, we walked over to the Juliusspital wine tavern and had lunch there.

Pictures: Lunch at the Juliusspital Wine Tavern

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

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Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

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Pictures: Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Rhône Valley, Presented his Portfolio at at the French Embassy in Washington DC

Jean-Luc Colombo was in town (Washington DC) and I had the chance to participate in a tasting with Jean-Luc at the French Embassy in Washington DC, at the invitation of Patrick Lachaussée, Premier Councel.

Following the tasting, there was a Gala Dinner at the French Embassy - Goût de France/ Good France - with 220 guests. The dinner was prepared by 13 Washington DC star chefs. Goût de France/Good France is an annual fund-raising event organized by the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs and held worldwide to celebrate French gourmet cooking.

Jean Luc Colombo was the guest of honor at the 2018 Washington DC Goût de France/ Good France dinner.

Picture: Invitation

Dear All,

I would like to share with you this invitation to participate in an exceptional and exclusive wine tasting of some fine vintages from the Rhone Valley, in the presence of the world-acclaimed winemaker, Jean-Luc Colombo.

Jean-Luc Colombo is a man of warmth, energy, and passion with an insatiable appetite for the good things in life. His dedication to fine food and wine took root early and came from his mother, a talented chef in Marseille. The long and joyful hours spent as a small boy assisting her in the kitchen later made him an excellent cook too. Jean-Luc’s subsequent decision to graduate as an oenologist and create wines which would match his mother’s cuisine was inevitable!

With his wife Anne, also an oenologist, he created the “Centre of Oenology of Côtes du Rhône” in Cornas in 1984, and has ever since been a consulting winemaker for some of the best “Domaines” in the Rhône Valley, Provence and Bordeaux.

Jean-Luc’s fulfillment of a childhood dream came with the purchase of his first vineyard, a small plot of old vines planted on a granite hillside overlooking the village of Cornas. The 1987 release of Jean-Luc’s first vintage of Cornas “Les Ruchets” was a great success and became the first in a long series of vintages of what is universally regarded as Colombo’s iconic wine. Throughout the years following his rise, Jean-Luc has remained true to his passion for winemaking and constant to his guiding principle, that is respect for nature and the unique qualities of each and every terroir.

As world-acclaimed winemaker, Jean-Luc is also well-known for his conviviality, generosity and to ably defend the rich cultural heritage of French gastronomy. Jean-Luc and Anne have given their love for good food and good wine to their daughter Laure who Joined the family domaine in 2010. Laure serves as viticulturist, oenologist and world traveler. She is full of life and brings delicacy, sensitivity, freshness and authenticity !

We are looking forward to seeing you as this exceptional and exclusive wine tasting.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Jean-Luc Colombo at the French Embassy in Washington DC

Palm Bay International/ Jean-Luc Colombo

The wines of Jean-Luc Colombo are imported into the USA by Palm Bay International.

Palm Bay International: What happens when you combine a creative, adventurous spirit with an unbridled passion for wines of quality and character? For lovers of fine wines from France's Rhône Valley, the answer is simple: Jean-Luc Colombo.

1984: A devotee of the Syrah grape, Jean-Luc was convinced that the northern Rhône appellation of Cornas offered enormous potential for producing stellar quality Syrah. Following his conviction, he opened his own wine laboratory in Cornas and developed a thriving reputation as a wine consultant, breathing new life into the then-obscure wines of Cornas.

JLC Vineyard: Shortly after, Colombo began purchasing his own vineyards first in Cornas then throughout the Rhône Valley and Languedoc - leading to the establishment in 1994 of Vins Jean-Luc Colombo. In 2003, Colombo enhanced his ventures by returning to his roots near Marseille and purchasing vineyards to produce the now highly-successful Cape Bleue Rosé.

Jean-Luc Colombo is one of the most progressive and influential winemakers of his generation and is nicknamed “The Winemaking Wizard of the Rhone.”

Based in The Rhône Valley: In addition to running Vins Jean-Luc Colombo, Colombo continues his consulting practice, advising approximately 100 producers throughout the Rhône Valley, Switzerland and southern France. His wife, Anne, who is closely involved in the production of the Cornas wines, manages the consulting practice.

In 2010, Laure Colombo, Anne and Jean-Luc's daughter, joined the family business. An avid world traveler, Laure studied viticulture in Bordeaux and also holds a Masters degree in Oenology from Montpellier University. She now works alongside her parents and is already making a name for herself as one of the Rhône's rising stars.

"Jean-Luc Colombo has become one of the stars of Cornas. Well-known as an oenologist for dozens of Rhone Valley clients, Colombo has had a positive influence in the Rhone, undoubtedly improving the quality of many estate's wines. As for his own wines, there are usually three cuvees of Cornas. In ascending order of quality they are: Les Terres Brulees, Les Ruchets (from a specific vineyard), and La Louvee (formerly known as cuvee JLC) ." (Wine Advocate)

"One of the most influential figure in Rhone wine making in the last 20 years has been the Bordeaux-trained enologue Jean Luc Colombo, who advises many a grower on his wine making and has built up his own Estate at Cornas. Colombo's wines demonstrated what he preaches: they are impeccably vinified, richly fruity and heavily oaked wines without rough edges." (James Turnbull)

"Top 100 Wineries of the Year 2008" (Wine & Spirits Magazine)

"A Cornas wine comparable to the best grand crus" (Le Monde)

"Jean-Luc Colombo shakes up the Rhone Valley. A Cornas wine which is among the best wines." (Le Figaro)

"With his eloquence, his appetite for life, and his incredible ability to realize countless ideas, Jean-Luc Colombo is one of the most endearing characters of the French wineries" (Bettane et Dessauve)

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Jean-Luc Colombo at the French Embassy in Washington DC

Wine Spectator/ Winemaker Talk: Jean-Luc Colombo
Posted: April 26, 2007

Wine Spectator: Winemaker Jean-Luc Colombo, 50, jokes that he's a bit of a Rhône outcast since he relies on modern techniques in one of France's most traditional wine regions. At the same time, it's hard to imagine where the Rhône would be without him, since Colombo was among the first to travel outside the area and not only aggressively market his own wines, but also tell the story of the entire region. Colombo grew up in a family of cooks, so he knew about food and wine early on, but at first he chose to be a pharmacist instead. It was a short-lived career move; he purchased his parcels of vines in the 247-acre Cornas region in 1986. From that humble start, he now makes his small-production, sought-after Cornas cuvées (Terres Brûlées, Les Ruchets and La Louvée), as well as a range of other wines, mostly from purchased grapes, reaching all the way down the valley to a $9 Côtes du Rhône.

Colombo has even begun to make wines from the Côte Bleue, near Marseilles, from old and neglected vines he found in a national park. The project is near to his heart since it brings him back closer to where he grew up. In addition, Colombo remains in high demand as a consultant, in and out of the Rhône Valley. But wherever he works, his focus remains squarely on making wines that work well with food. He took a quick break between tastings and consulting appointments to talk about his inspirations and his own influence on Rhône winemaking.

Pictures: Maps of the Rhône Valley, the Northern Rhône Valley and Cornas

Wine Spectator: How did you first get interested in winemaking?

Jean-Luc Colombo: I was first interested in the taste of wine. My mother was a chef--I grew up in a kitchen environment, with a grandmother and a mother who were great promoters of the culinary tradition of Marseille. Not all winemakers have a passion for food, but because everyone in the family was a chef, all we talked about was food. Then, I really discovered enology during my pharmaceutical studies. I got a pharmacy license, and decided to open a lab. The lab was [similar] to winemaking.

WS: What makes Cornas so different from the rest of the Rhône Valley?

JLC: Cornas is part of the Northern Rhône hillsides, which is where Syrah comes from, and where Syrah gives its greatest expression. At the same time, the hills of Cornas benefit from Mediterranean influences, which bring a lot of character to the wine.

WS: And your wines from Côte Bleue?

JLC: That's very different from Cornas. Cornas is the best landscape and soils for Syrah--it's very porous. So we can have a good Syrah with a lot of aromas of flowers like lilac and iris. With the fruit it's black currant or licorice. But the Côte Bleue is more for Mourvèdre and Syrah because the land is chalk. It's also a peninsula--almost like an island. You have the huge Lake of Berre, maybe a 30-mile circle, and then south is the sea. It's almost like Long Island. When you're there it's always cool. Not cold, not hot. So the Côte Bleue is a very good terroir to grow Syrah and Mourvèdre. The taste of the grape is never too mature--it's always 13.5 percent alcohol. We never get 15 percent. There is no residual sugar, and we don't use irrigation, because we have the humidity on the leaves.

WS: You've joked sometimes that you're the most hated and loved winemaker in the Rhône. Why?

JLC: Well, when I arrived in the Northern Rhône, techniques were very old-fashioned, and I shook some habits (I use new oak, destemming, green harvest). Obviously, this did not please a few narrow-minded winemakers. Conversely, I did get credit because I contributed to improving today's wine quality and also because I myself invested a great deal to promote the wines of the area.

WS: Who have been some of your greatest influences?

JLC: When I discovered enology I read Le Gout du Vin, by the great Bordeaux enologist Emile Peynaud. In the early years of my career, I also got to meet Michel Rolland, who showed me the importance of the role of the consultant, when most enologists were only interested in analysis.

Pictures: Jean-Luc Colombo, Patrick Lachaussée, Premier Councel at the French Embassy in Washington DC, and the Goût de France Washington DC Star Chefs Bertrand Chemel – 2941; Mark Courseille – Café Descartes; Alvin Dela Cruz – Westend Bistro; Xavier Deshayes – Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center; Mark Furstenberg – Bread Furst; Sébastien Giannini – St. Régis Hotel; Jon Krinn – Clarity; Frederic Loraschi – Frederic Loraschi Chocolate; Cédric Maupillier – Convivial; Claudio Pirollo – Et Voilà!; Nicholas Stefanelli – Masseria; Robert Wiedmaier – Marcel's, Brasserie Beck, Siren

WS: What would you say is the main difference between someone like you and Rolland?

JLC: We share common ideas, but we have always worked in different wine regions, either different by size or notoriety. I'm very close to the thinking of Michel Rolland--I work like him, he works like me--and we are very close. He's a good friend.

But maybe the difference is I think more about the food [that goes with the wine]. The food 40 years ago and 20 years ago and five years ago is different. But the wine [has always been] the same. I love the fruit of the grape. When you eat the grape in September, the taste is of blueberry, blackberry and strawberry, and I like to find the taste of the grape in the wine, in the glass. I try to have the fruit in the bottle, in that glass of wine.

WS: How do you get that?

JLC: We need to be very clean. Clean cellar, clean barrel. You need to wash your hands, wash the baskets. Simple, but in fact, it's very difficult to be clean.

WS: What are some of your favorite things to cook and eat with your wines?

JLC: Very simple things. Like a truffle with a T-bone and marrow. Maybe not in summer … but very good in winter or autumn. Cornas is also much better with venison. And of course, Lièvre à la Royale, which is stuffed and braised rabbit. There is a very famous recipe--it's cooked for a long, long, long time, maybe 18 hours. The stuffing is truffle, foie gras, a lot of spice and good fleur de sel. Usually the hare is like a big sausage. You cut the hare in slices. It's the best! In the U.S. it's very difficult to find, but one chef who cooks it very well is Didier Virot at Aix. It's wonderful. It's a food to dream, because it takes so long to make.

WS: What is your favorite non-European wine?

JLC: Ridge, by winemaker Paul Draper. Usually you have to like the wine and drink it and you get pleasure, and that's it. The winemaking is good when you get pleasure in the glass. But when you know the guy--and we enjoy sharing food and wine with him--or the philosophy of the person, it is much better. I like him very much because he's very knowledgeable and he knows food and wine.

The Wines we Tasted

2016 Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Les Abeilles

80% Clairette, 20% Roussanne
winer-searcher average price in US$: 13

2016 Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, La Redonne

70% Viognier, 30% Roussanne

2015 Jean-Luc Colombo, Condrieu, Amour de Dieu

100% Viognier
winer-searcher average price in US$: 45

2016 Jean-Luc Colombo, Saint Péray, La Belle de Mai

60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne

2017 Jean-Luc Colombo, Rosé, Cape Bleue, IGP Vins de Méditerrannée

Syrah Mouvédre Blend

2017 Jean-Luc Colombo, Rosé, La Dame de Rouet, AOC Coteaux d'aix en Provence

40% Syrah, 40% Cinsault, 20% Grenache

2016 Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Rouge, Les Abeilles

60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mouvedre

2016 Jean-Luc Colombo, Les Collines des Laure

100% Syrah
80% from Cornas and the remainder from Saint-Joseph and Crozes Hermitage

2015 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Terres Brûlées

100% Syrah

2015 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Les Ruchets
2010 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Les Ruchets
2006 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Les Ruchets

100% Syrah
This is Jean-Luc Colombo's signature wine
winer-searcher average price in US$: 79

2015 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, La Louvée
2012 Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, La Louvée

100% Syrah
Aged 22 months in new and used oak
0.8 hectares
winer-searcher average price in US$: 87

2015 Jean Luc Colombo, Cornas, Vallon d'Aigle

100% Syrah
A micro blend with only 4 barrels produced, this is the Qissential expression of Jean-Luc's savoir faire in Cornas
Aged 22 months in new and used oak
0.3 hectares
winer-searcher average price in US$: 228

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Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

New Year’s Eve at Château des Fines Roches in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France

Understanding the Wines of the Rhône Valley: The Classification - AOC/ Vin de Pay/ Vin de France

Winemaker Dinner with David Reynaud, Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhone Valley, at Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC, USA/ France

Winemaker Dinner with Alice Rion and Louis Hamman, Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion, Vosne Romanée, Bourgogne, at the French Embassy/ Restaurant Le Café Descartes in Washington DC, USA/ France

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller in Bordeaux

Below is a list of the wine tours, wine dinners and wine tastings planned by Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine for the coming months.

For questions concerning the ombiasy wine tours please consult the ombiasy website.

For all other events please send me (cschiller@schiller-wine.com) or Annette (aschiller@ombiasypr.com) an e-mail.

April 2018

Washington DC, Thursday April 5: Winemaker Dinner with Christian Stahl of Winzerhof Stahl/ Franken at Restaurant BToo. See: Invitation: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franconia, Germany, at BToo in Washington DC, USA - Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 6:30 pm

McLean, Virginia, Friday April 6: Affordable Bordeaux - Tasting at the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter) lead by Annette Schiller

Washington DC, Saturday April 14: DC Wine Fest, ombiasy booth with Annette and Christian Schiller

Washington DC, Friday April 20: Abbey Wines - Tasting at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) lead by Annette Schiller. See: Invitation: Annette Schiller Presents "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA - Friday, April 20th, 2018

May 2018

Washington DC, Monday, May 7: Winemaker Dinner with Sofia Gorse of Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls/ Virginia

Washington DC, Tuesday May 8: Winemaker Dinner with Diana Paulin of Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé at Restaurant BToo in Washington DC

Germany and Alsace, May 12 - May 20: 2018 Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours

June 2018

Germany, June 12 - June 21: 2018 Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours

July 2018

August 2018

McLean, Virginia, August: Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in McLean

September 2018

Frankfurt, Germany, September: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt - Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2017

Bordeaux, France, September 4 - 13: 2018 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Bourgogne, France, September 20 - 30: 2018 Burgundy Tour by ombiasy WineTours

October 2018

Rhône Valley, France, October 15 - 24: 2018 Rhône Valley Tour by ombiasy WineTours

November 2018

Buffalo, New York State, November 1 - 4: Germany, Burgundy and Alsace Tastings at the National Conference of the American Wine Society lead by Annette Schiller

December 2018

2019

Germany, 2019: 2019 Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Invitation: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franconia, Germany, at BToo in Washington DC, USA - Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 6:30 pm

Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society, USA/ France

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Invitation: Annette Schiller Presents "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA - Friday, April 20th, 2018

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2017)

Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Rhône Valley Tour December 2017: From Lyon to Avignon - Wine, Food, Culture, History

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Picture: In the Vineyards of the Rüdesheimer Berg with Weingut Leitz Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer

Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer was our host. He first showed us the new Weingut Leitz winemaking facilities. We then tasted a few - including some very interesting - wines in the new tasting room. Finally, Manfred took us on a tour of the famous Grosse Lage vineyards of Johannes Leitz in the Rüdesheimer Berg; during the amazing vineyard tour, we tasted 4 GGs.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Leitz, with Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer

The Leitz Family’s viticulture history goes back to 1744 and has been passed on from one generation to the next for almost four centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, the winery had 3 hectares of vineyards and was unknown among German wine connoisseurs. Under the leadership of Johannes “Josi” Leitz, the winery grew in size to 60 hectares.Johannes Leitz owns 40 hectares and buys the fruit of 20 hectares. Overwhelmingly his vineyards are planted with Riesling.

Johannes Leitz was able to acquire top Riesling sites in the famous Rüdesheimer Berg vineyards - Berg Schloßberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rotland, on the mountain slopes above Rüdesheim facing the south. Unusual for a German winery, Josi exports 90% of his wines with the US the most important market for mayn years. Recently, Sweden has taken over the #1 spot.

Picture: Johannes Leitz, Winemaker of the Year 2011, see also: Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Rüdesheim in the Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions.

Picture: Rheingau

Rüdesheim lies at the western corner, when the Rhine turns to the north again. In fact, it sits at the beginning of the famous Rhine Gorge and is thereby part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Coming from Frankfurt (in the east), we had to pass through the whole Rheingau region, which, however, took us just half an hour.

Pictures: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller, Johannes Leitz and his Wife at Kloster Eberbach, GermanyAnnette Schiller and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller and Johannes Leitz at Weingut Leitz. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Schatzi Wines

The wines of Johannes Leitz are sold in the US by Schatzi Wines, a relatively new importer. Kevin Pike is the CEO of Schatzi Wines. Before creating Schatzi Wines, Kevin Pike was for many years the National Director of the Terry Theise portfolio (Michael Skurnik). Early one, Johannes Leitz connected with Terry Theise and accounted during the peak period for 25% of the Terry Theise Germany portfolio, which comprises about 20 German producers, including such heavyweights as Dönnhoff, Selbach-Oster, von Winning, Diel, to name a few.

The German portfolio of Schatzi Wines comprises Leitz (Rheingau), Dreissigacker (Rheinhessen), Dr. Heger (Baden), von Hövel (Mosel), Heinrich Spindler (Pfalz), Knebel (Mosel), Franzen (Mosel), Benedikt Baltes (Franken), Julia Bertram (Ahr) and Karl Haidle (Württemberg).

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Johannes Leitz, Markus Schneider from Weingut Markus Schneider (Pfalz), Kilian Franzen from Weingut Franzen (Mosel), Jochen Dreissigacker from Weingut Dreissigacker (Rheinhessen), Matthias Knebel from Weingut Knebel (Mosel) and Kevin Pike, Owner of Schatzi Wines, at the 2017 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach/ Germany. See: Riesling Gala 2017 at Eberbach Monastery in the Rheingau: A Riesling Feast in a Breathtaking Historic Setting, Germany

Schatzi Wines: Weingut Josef Leitz

Schatzi Wines: Under the direction of Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz has earned the reputation of being one of Rheingau’s top growers and moreover, one of the finest producers in Germany. Since taking over his family estate in 1985, Johannes has grown his holdings from 2.6 hectares to over 40, most of which are Grand Cru sites on the slopes of the Rüdesheimer Berg. Once the home of some of the world’s most sought after and expensive wines, the region fell to mediocrity in the years following the Second World War. Josi has made it his life’s work to reclaim the intrinsic quality of his native terroir and introduce the world to the true potential of the Rheingau.

Pictures: At Weingut Leitz with Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer

The Rheingau is a small region, stretching only 20 miles from east to west. It is marked by a course change in the Rhein River’s flow to the North Sea from its origins in the Swiss Alps. As the Rhein flows north along the eastern edge of the Pfalz and Rheinhessen, it runs directly into the Taunus Mountain range which has a subsoil comprised of pure crystalline quartzite. Rivers, no matter how mighty, are lazy and the Rhine has yet to break through the quartz infrastructure surrounding the town of Mainz. At Mainz, the Rhein turns west and the 30 km stretch between Mainz and Rüdesheim makes up the majority of the Rheingau. Even though the region is further north than the middle Mosel, its south facing slopes get hotter than the narrow Mosel Valley which therefore provides important diurnal temperature variation.

Leitz’s estate vineyards lie entirely on the westernmost part of the Rheingau on the Rüdesheimer Berg—a steep, south-facing hillside of extremely old slate and quartzite—planted entirely to riesling, encompassing the Grand Crus of Schlossberg, Rottland, and Roseneck. Leitz trains his vines in a single-cane, cordon system to improve the quality and character of the fruit, differing from the majority of Rheingau growers where the practice has long been to prioritize yield via a double-cane system. Johannes is a firm believer that the crucial work of the vigneron takes place in the vineyards. Focused on farming as sustainably as possible and working by hand, the grueling hours of labor on the ultra-steep slopes allow these ancient vineyards to reach their maximum potential.

After harvest, Josi is equally focused on working gently in the press house and ageing the wines on their gross lees. Johannes selects bottle closures to reflect, and more crucially serve, the individual cellar practices employed for each wine; Stelvin closures are used for wines raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness while wines raised in cask are bottled under cork to allow for a long development in the cellar.

Picture: Jochen Dreissigacker, Weingut Dreissigacker, Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut von Winning, Andreas Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz, at the Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City. See: Rieslingfeier 2018 in New York City: Gränd Tasting and Gala Dinner

Tasting at Weingut Leitz - Tasting Room

After touring the new winemaking facilitie of Weingut Leitz, we tasted a few - including some very interesting - wines in the new tasting room.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Leitz

The Wines

NV Weingut Leitz Eins Zwei Dry Zero Riesling

The Leitz EINS-ZWEI-ZERO offers an original character that is clean and fresh with notes of lime and citrus; surprisingly rhubarb and a little hint of red apples on an underlying mineral foundation. The finish is dry and relatively long. Of course, an alcohol-free wine never will give the same depth, structure and weight as a wine with alcohol, but here it is close to it and it is simply an alcohol-free wine tasting wine. Impressive. We recommend to pair EINS-ZWEI-ZERO with gratinated crostini, cauliflower and goat’s cheese & butter, as well as with an Asian chicken casserole.

2016 Weingut Leitz Eins Zwei 3 Riesling

2016 Weingut Leitz Riesling Trocken

This wine is a blend of discernible, clear Riesling fruit with a mature peach aroma and hints of pear, hay and marigold. Grapefruit, lemon, pineapple and iodine, not to mention discreet traces of slate round out the fragrance. Smooth on the palate, this wine boasts a poised fruit acidity with an inherent creamy effect. Extremely fine, salty components add a distinctive third dimension to the taste experience. The Rüdesheimer Riesling is an ideal accompaniment to meals that majestically comes into its own just as much with a dish such as vitello tonnato, Wiener schnitzel and roast chicken as with roast beef and fried potatoes.

2016 Weingut Leitz Magic Mountain Riesling Trocken

Magic Mountain is cheerful and light, dense and intensive at one and the same time. Its fragrance represents the interplay of a mature lemon aroma and orange peel with green pepper, strong yeasty notes and a hint of a mineral, salty sea breeze. The clearly discernible Riesling fruit is soft and silky on the palate, the fruit acidity has a sense of calm and melds elegantly with the wine’s filigree, enchantingly aromatic extract. It goes well with chicken fricassee with asparagus and capers, roast corn-fed chicken with chanterelle mushrooms, veal medallions with cream of morel, and grilled sea bream with salsa verde or lemon butter.

2016 Weingut Leitz Sylvaner Trocken Alte Reben

2016 Weingut Leitz Kirchenpfad Rüdesheim Riesling Kabinett Off-dry

The Kirchenpfad Kabinett shows very elegant flavour of ripe apples and pears beside exotic hints of exotic fruits, such as lychee, papaya, mango and passion fruit. The grapes for this Kabinett were harvested in the first week of October 2016 and have been pressed very gently directly after arriving in our press house. The Rüdesheimer Kirchenpfad is a GROSSE LAGE, so we have, beside the possibility to create a GG, an excellent potential for an off-dry Kabinett. It´s yeasty zest is so typical for the 2016 portfolio and also very easy to detect - it provides with the opulent fruit a sensation of smell. On the palate this sensation of smell turns into a sensation of taste, with an interaction of ripe and sweet apples, a slight exotic impression and you will discover that the vintage shows up in that wonderful combination of ripeness and well embedded acidity. Due to the slightly extended fermentation you will detect the very elegant flavours of yeast easily beside the harmonious fruit. We recommend to pair this Kabinett with a rich Sushi-combination, sesame oil, ginger and sweet wasabi sauce, or with a light sweet mango chutney and Macadamia nut crusted Mahi Mahi.

2016 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Trocken VDP.Erste Lage

2016 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreut Riesling Spätlese Sweet VDP.Erste Lage

The site "Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz" is located to the east of our town where you will find the gentle hills with profound loess and loam soils, good content of chalk that secure even in hot years a sufficient water supply. The vines are bearing enduring and fruitful wines. The Magdalenenkreuz Spätlese has a savoury nose with fruity hints of ripe apples and pear; as well as an exotic trace of grapefruit, orange and quince. The perception of taste creates in conjunction with the exceptional play of fruit and acidity a very unique exaltation and withal an intense finish. Beside these expressive scents of fruit, subtle mineral hints are joining this sappy Riesling-variation. The Spätlese shows how simple a Riesling is able to compete with substantial dishes and offers a wealth of possible combinations. We enjoy this wine with Curry, peach slices, with a condimental Biryani-chicken, or on its own with dark chocolate.

2009 Weingut Leitz/ Becker Geisenheimer Rothenberg Spätburgunder

This Pinot Noir is produced in cooperation with the redwine-winery Friedrich Becker from Schweigen/Palatinate. The grapes were fermented at the Leitz winery and the wine is placed in wooden barrels; blended and bottled unfiltered at the Becker winery. The Pinot Noir of Johannes Leitz and Friedrich Becker has a scent of red cherries and strawberries with a touch of mint combined with a pleasant and reluctant impact of oak. You will find also black truffle, tea and noble spicery. On the palate there is fresh ripe acidity with smooth tannins. The Rothenberg fits very well with venison with cranberries, turkey with parsley root, Steak frites.

Tasting at Weingut Leitz - Rüdesheimer Berg

Following the tour of and tasting at the winemaking facilities of Weingut Leitz, Manfred took us on a tour of the famous Grosse Lage vineyards of Johannes Leitz in the Rüdesheimer Berg; during the amazing vineyard tour, we tasted 4 GGs.

Pictures: Touring the Rüdesheimer Berg with Weingut Leitz Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer

Pictures: Touring the Rüdesheimer Berg with Johannes Leitz on a Previuos Visit. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

What we Tasted with Weingut Leitz Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer

2015 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels “Terrassen” GG Trocken

Schatzi Wines: The Kaisersteinfels (1.2 ha) is the last terraced vineyard in the Rheingau, except for a .3 ha portion of Rottland. The vineyard never underwent Flurbereinigung in the 1960s—a legal rectification of vineyard holdings meant to reunite parcels that were splintered as a result of the Napoleonic Code inheritance law. This site was basically abandoned as a result of the aforementioned, coupled by it's location; Kaisersteinfels lies just beneath the tree line at the top of the mountain, overlooking the confluence of the Nahe and Rhine Rivers. Being at a higher altitude, the fruit ripens exceptionally late and is often the last vineyard to be picked. The soil is nearly an equal mix of quartzite and red slate and the oldest vines exceed 70 years of age.

2015 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck “Katerloch” GG Trocken

Schatzi Wines: The "Katerloch," or “Devil’s Hole,” is the amphitheater portion of the mountain that appears as though it was carved out of the slope of the Rüdesheimer Berg. These are some of Leitz’s steepest holdings alongside Schlossberg, with up to 65° inclines. Katerloch is always the coolest and leanest of the GG’s, typically expressing aromas of lime citrus, fennel and wintergreen alongside firm acid structure.

2015 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland “Hinterhaus” GG Trocken

Schatzi Wines: "Hinterhaus," or “back yard,” is situated directly behind the heart of the village. This is always the first of the Rüdesheimer Berg sites to ripen because it is at the base of the mountain, catches the reflection off the Rhine and is comprised of slate soil, known for it's ability to retain heat. Rottland is recognized for its exotic yellow fruit and distinctive mineral structure. It is Leitz’s most full- bodied riesling of the dry range.

Stuart Pigott/ www.jamessuckling.com: 2015 BERG ROTTLAND GG - 93 points: Leitz´s BERG ROTTLAND has more ripe peachy fruit than any other wine from the Berg (mountain) sites of Rüdesheim in this vintage. That gives it a unique juiciness that makes it immediately appealing.Moderate acidity in this context.

2015 Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg "Ehrenfels" Riesling GG Trocken

Schatzi Wines: The Ehrenfels are the iconic castle ruins that sit atop the Rüdesheimer Berg's western edge. The 40+ year-old vines produce small berries with high concentration. The Ehrenfels Grosses Gewächs combines power and elegance; it isn’t as tropical as the Hinterhaus, nor as floral as the Katerloch and is right behind Rottland in terms of masculinity.

International Wine Challenge 2017 - 4 times Trophy GOLD: 2015 BERG SCHLOSSBERG GG: Decandent exotic tropical and floral notes. Vibrant limey mid-palate. Finishes with clarity and precision. - Rüdesheimer Trophy, Rheingau Trophy, German White Trophy, International Riesling Trophy

Bye-bye

Thanks Manfred for a great tour and tastings.

Picture: Bye-bye and Thanks

Finishing the 4 Leitz GGs

The following day, we spent the evening and stayed overnight at Steigenberger Hotel in Bad Neuenahr. Excellent spa facilities using the hot springs of the spa town Bad Neuenahr and the location at the Kurpark near the banks of the Ahr river make this hotel very special. The evening was free for us to explore the charming spa town which is famous for its hot springs. We ended up re-tasting the 4 Weingut Johannes Leitz GGs that we had tasted in the Rüdesheimer Berg a few days ago with Leitz Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer.

Picture: Bradt Travel Guide Madagascar (12th Edition)

The 12th edition of the Bradt Travel Guide “Madagascar” (first published in 1988) was published in 2017. The 12th edition of the Bradt Travel Guide “Madagascar” contains a box entitled “Choosing Malagasy Wine”, which I was asked to draft by Daniel Austin and Hilary Brandt, the authors of the 12th edition. The box is based on an earlier posting on schiller-wine: The Wines of Madagascar

Picture: Choosing Malagasy Wine - Christian Schiller

Here is the box.

It is not well known in the rest of the world that Madagascar produces wine. Typically, it tends to be of good table wine quality, not more. The main grape varieties are traditionally Petit Bouchet, Villardin, Chambourcin and Varousset for vins rouge (reds) and the Couderc Blanc for vins blanc (whites). Little known in the world of fine wine, these so-called French-American hybrid grape varieties have the advantage of being robust, but do not match the Vitis vinifera varieties – like Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir – for elegance and refinement. Vitis vinifera varieties dominate worldwide wine consumption, but there is increasing interest in French-American hybrids in the 'green' movement.

Currently seven producers in Madagascar make wine with French-American hybrid grapes. Each winemaker produces one or more brands, each of which typically comes as vin rouge, vin gris (white wine made from red grapes), vin rosé and vin blanc. In addition, you find vin blanc moelleux, a white wine with noticeable remaining sweetness. All these wines are non-vintage (NV) wines.

Antsirabe Viticulteur-Encaveur Chan Fao Tong, a first-wave Chinese winemaker, currently produces Madagascar's best (and most expensive) wine from hybrid grapes: NV Grand Cru d'Antsirabe. It comes as Rouge Alicante (medium bodied), Rouge Seyve Villard (earthy), Rose Viala (good summer wine), Gris de Gris (goes well with Malagasy food) and Blanc Couderc (medium bodied, dry).

Another interesting wine producer is Lazan'i Betsilio, a large co-operative created in Fianarantsoa in 1971. Supported by Swiss development aid, they used to make the best wine of the country. Quality has suffered since that funding project was terminated, but they are now trying hard to get back on track, with some success. Lazan'i Betsilio offers one wine, NV Haute Matsiatra, which comes as Rouge (medium bodied), Rouge Primeur (lighter), Gris (my favorite Malagasy food wine), Blanc (dry, fruity) and Blanc Moelleux (medium sweet white).

In a new development, there is now one winery that is radically different from the others. Owned and run by Pâquerette and Jean Allimant, Clos Nomena exclusively uses noble Vitis vinifera grapes. From 2001, they set up a five-year experimental vineyard in Ambalavao and the four grape varieties that showed the most promising results were selected to be grown commercially. With the first wines released in 2011, Clos Nomena's portfolio now includes a Blanc Sec (dry, fruity, crisp), a Rose (great aperitif wine), and a Rouge (medium bodied, elegant, lingering finish). They are available in Tana's top restaurants and some special shops but at considerably higher prices than traditional Malagasy wines.

Dr. Christian Schiller is a member of the International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers and runs a daily wine blog (http://schiller-wine.blogspot.co.uk). He previously was the IMF resident representative in Madagascar and continues to visit regularly.

The box was initially published in the 11th edition of the Bradt Travel Guide “Madagascar” (first published in 1988) in 2014. See: Choosing Malagasy Wine, in: Bradt Travel Guide Madagascar (Author: Christian G.E. Schiller)

Picture: Bradt Travel Guide Madagascar (11th Edition)

Picture: Choosing Malagasy Wine - Christian Schiller

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

A Comprehensive Guide - in Alphabetical Order - to the Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

A Comprehensive Guide – Ordered by the Number of Stars - to the Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

The Wines of Madagascar

Wining and Dining in Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar – Christian G.E. Schiller’s Private List of Restaurants in Antananarivo

The Wines of Madagascar - Good and Interesting Table Wines

Christian G.E.Schiller’s Private List of Restaurants in Antananarivo That Serve Malagasy Wine

Clos Nomena: Taking the Wine of Madagascar to New Heights

Fine Wine and Fine Oysters in Madagascar: Oysters from Fort Dauphin and Wine from Clos Nomena

Restaurant and Hotel AKOA– An Oasis of Tranquility in the Buzzing Third World City Antananarivo in Madagascar

Tsiky– Charming Restaurant in Antananarivo, Madagascar, Serving Good Food and Malagasy Wines

Sea, Sand, Soul and Sakafo, and Whales and Wine – At Princesse Bora Lodge on Ile Sainte Marie in the Indian Ocean

Foie Gras and Lazan’i Betsileo at Restaurant Villa Vanille in Antananarivo, Madagascar

Foie Gras in Madagascar

Choosing Malagasy Wine, in: Bradt Travel Guide Madagascar (Author: Christian G.E. Schiller)

Picture: Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

The tour and tasting at B was the last visit of the day that began at Château Léoville-Poyferré, Appellation Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé in the morning. After Château Léoville-Poyferré, we enjoyed a tour and tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, followed by a wine-pairing lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron.

At Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, we toured the estate and tasted 4 wines with General Manager Philippe Blanc.

Pictures: The Historic Château Beychevelle

Château Beychevelle

This historic château is one of the largest properties in Bordeaux. The château was constructed in 1565 by Bishop François of Foix-Candale and is well-known as the “Versailles of the Médoc” with its beautiful architecture, exquisite interior, and magnificent park.

A sequence of illustrious, noble proprietors enlarged the buildings and made the garden into one of the most spectacular in the Bordelais.

Pictures: The New Winery of Château Beychevelle

In 1875 Château Beychevelle was purchased by Armand Heine, the cousin of the famous German poet Heinrich Heine, who is best known outside of Germany for his lyric poetry which was set to music by composers such as Robert Schumann and Franz Schubert.

Since 1986 the property belongs to the Grands Millésimes de France. Manager has since been Aymar de Bailleux. A huge renovation project was underway for several years and finished in 2016. The new cellars are surrounded by glass walls.

Pictures: The New Reception Area of Château Beychevelle

Vineyard

Château Beychevelle has 250 hectares of land, about 90 of which are planted with vines. The rest consists of grassland where Limousin cows graze, and of pine forests, poplar, ash and walnut trees.

The vines have an average age of 30 years and are closely planted, with densities of 8,300 to 10,000 vines per hectare; they have developed substantial root systems, enabling them to draw nutrients from deep in the soil, and to cope with the sometimes difficult weather conditions, such as when there are droughts in the summer.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

The vineyard is planted with the Médoc’s four traditional grape varieties: 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.

The heart of the vineyard is located on two plateaus of deep Garonne gravel from the Gunzian period, on the edge of the Gironde, providing ideal conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon. These are the famous gravelly hilltops of the Médoc, close to the Gironde, which offer the best conditions for the classic Bordeaux varietals. Returning the sun’s warmth during the night, and draining away excess rain water, the vines are able to flourish and the grapes ripen perfectly. The resulting deep red wines are well-balanced and generous, offering power tempered by a silky texture.

Pictures: Getting Ready for Harvest

New Winery

Château Beychevelle’s new winery has been custom-made to suit the vineyard, with every vine having a place in a plot-by-plot vinification process, that enables each terroir to express its full complexity and depth.

More spacious, and with an improved layout, the new facilities also permit a gentle transfer of the grapes by gravity, very precise temperature control, and extractions adjusted to the characteristics of each vat.

Combining innovation and tradition, the winery is a perfect reflection of Château Beychevelle’s “haute-couture” expertise.

Pictures: Tour of the New Winery

The Wines

Château Beychevelle
Grand Cru Classé

Ever since it was first produced, and down through the various vintages, Château Beychevelle has reflected the elegance and finesse of Saint Julien's finest terroirs.Graceful and complex, with a tremendous aromatic richness, Château Beychevelle is made from the best plots in the vineyard and undergoes a rigorous selection process.It reveals its character after about ten years, and can be kept for several decades, depending on the vintage.

Aging and fining: In French oak barrels for 18 months, with 50% in new oak barrels. The wine is then fined with egg whites, with traditional racking by candle light.

40 000 to 50 000 cases

Pictures: Barrel Cellar Tour

Amiral de Beychevelle
Château Beychevelle's Second Wine

The rigorous selection process undergone by the grand vin results in the creation of its younger brother, Amiral de Beychevelle.Despite being made from young vines, Amiral de Beychevelle benefits from the same growing techniques, meticulous sorting, and traditional barrel ageing.It has the same elegance and finesse as its older brother, but reveals its character more quickly, offering wine-enthusiasts the full vivacity of its youth. It can be kept for up to fifteen years, depending on the vintage.

Aging and fining: In French oak barrels for 12 months, with 30% in new oak barrels. The wine is then fined with egg whites, with traditional racking by candle light.

Pictures: Tasting with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Brulières de Beychevelle

Brulières de Beychevelle's 12 hectares of vines are 5 km from Beychevelle's vineyard; being further from the Gironde estuary, they benefit from a cooler climate.The vineyard is in the Haut-Médoc appellation and has been managed organically since 2008.Brulières' blend consists of just two grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.Vinified and aged in a separate winery, it is produced with the same level of care as Château Beychevelle and Amiral de Beychevelle.

The Wines we Tasted

2011 Amiral de Beychevelle

Wine-searcher a verage price in US$: 48

Nose of black fruit and spices. Delicious, full-flavoured attack and an elegant finish.

2009 Brulières de Beychevelle

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 35

Floral, fresh fruit bouquet. The palate is rounded and flavourful with tobacco and black fruit. Good length.

2011 Château Beychevelle Grand Cru Classé

I always love tasting at this Château. Philippe Blanc, head honcho, is so down to earth and matter of fact you can’t help but trust him. I asked him if he was happy with his 2011. “It’s not 2009 or 2010, but it’s in the top 50% of wines we have made in the last decade. Try it – you tell me”. He is right.

Not as flamboyant as the last two years, however it has real density and sweetness that other wines are lacking this year. Sumptuous, plump and really attractive with an excellent and lengthy finish, I seriously think it is more attractive than their 2005. Great work Mr White! Simon Staples, Asia Fine Wine Director

2009 Château Beychevelle Grand Cru Classé

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 119

The finest Beychevelle since the 2003 and probably since the 1982, Beychevelle's 2009 is opaque purple in color, with a beautiful, floral nose intermixed with black currant fruit, licorice, cedar wood and Christmas fruitcake. Full-bodied yet still elegant and pure, this wine has velvety tannins, a broad, savory mouthfeel, and a very long finish. There is plenty of tannin behind the extravagant fruit, glycerin and texture of this wine, but it is largely concealed. This wine could actually turn out to be even better than my relatively conservative tasting note. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2042. Score: 93 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (199), March 2012

Picture: ProWein 2018 (Photo: ProWein)

At the recent staging of ProWein 2018, International Trade Fair for Wines and Spirits, over 6,870 exhibitors from 64 countries (2017: 6,615 exhibitors from 62 nations) provided a unique global overview of the current wine and spirits ranges at the fairgrounds in Düsseldorf, Germany. More than 60,000 trade visitors (2017: 58,500) participated to place orders and gather information. With these figure, ProWein again reached top results and confirmed its status as the No.1 international trade fair for this sector. “Whoever has made their passion for wines and spirits their profession simply cannot afford to miss ProWein in Düsseldorf,” commented Hans Werner Reinhard, Managing Director of Messe Düsseldorf.

Picture: Number of Exhibitors at ProWein 2018 by Country

The high international attendance and quality was again a trademark of ProWein 2018. Every second trade visitor came from countries other than Germany – from a total of 133 nations. Over 70% of the trade visitors were from top or middle management. Almost 85% of all visitors regard ProWein above all as an order platform, 90% appreciate the concentrated networking and for 95% ProWein is a key source of information. This year most visitors were especially interested in the new vintages from Germany, France and Italy. ProWein 2018 received top scores overall: every second attendee found new suppliers and two thirds gathered helpful information on trends and innovations. About 95% stated that they completely achieved their goals at the trade fair.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf, Germany. See: Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf, Germany – Schiller’s Impressions

Worldwide Unique Line-Up

The 6,870 exhibitors from 64 nations gave trade visitors the opportunity to explore the complete worldwide line-up of wines and spirits over three days. The major wine-growing countries such as Italy (1,700 exhibitors), France (1,550 exhibitors) and Germany (990 exhibitors) were represented alongside producers from overseas (700 exhibitors) from the U.S., South Africa, Argentina, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. A focal theme this year was the wine country Germany. Released in time for the trade fair was the special publication “Wine made in Germany” highlighting all 13 German wine-growing regions and the German exhibitors with their tasting programs. Monika Reule, General Manager of the German Wine Institute (DWI), commented: “At this year’s ProWein, trade visitors from at home and abroad took an avid interest in wines from German wine-growing regions. Especially the lighter but highly refined 2017 vintage white wines were received very well since they are in line with consumers’ current taste. This is why German exhibitors take positive stock as the trade fair draws to a close. They especially praised the highly professional trade fair audience.”

At the spirits segment of ProWein, about 400 exhibitors from 30 nations presented their specialties such as exquisite brandies, whiskey, cognac, single malt, grappa and exotic cachaça.

New: Craft Drinks

With the heading “same but different”, ProWein offered the trendy craft theme an ideal platform where 76 exhibitors from 15 countries presented hand-picked beers, spirits and ciders. “Our new offering was received extremely well. This shows we have our finger on the pulse of the industry and have succeeded in staging this theme. We are on the right track and look forward to expanding the concept even further,” said Marius Berlemann, Global Head Wine & Spirits and Director of ProWein.

The broad range on offer in the organic wine segment was also popular. Visitors were able to meet with all relevant organic growers’ associations from Germany, Italy and France as well as numerous individual exhibitors from all over the world – overall about 300 producers. Additional information was provided by the special show Organic World and the leading German organic associations Bioland, Demeter and Ecovin offered advice complete with a matching gastronomic concept in the Organic Lounge.

Pictures: An "Altbier" at the Ürige in the Evening - Düsseldorf is a Beer City. See: Beer at Prowein in Düsseldorf? Yes: Altbier at Zum Uerige, Germany

Information Source

ProWein is not only renowned as the leading order platform for the sector but also as an important information source. About 500 information events and numerous guided tastings were organized at the exhibitors’ stands and at the ProWein Forum. Themes included Champagne, spirits, craft drinks, organic and bio-dynamic wines, maturity and potential, food and wine pairings as well as marketing, logistics and retail. About 70 events dealt with the focal theme “Wine made in Germany”.

ProWein as a Trend Platform

ProWein’s new trend scouts shared current and future trends with trade fair visitors at the ProWein Forum. The products at ProWein 2018 showed a trend towards light, uncomplicated wines with a focus on terroir as well as for wines from climatic regions such as Denmark, Poland and Great Britain where 20 years ago growing quality wines was impossible.

ProWein goes City

Complementing the trade only atmosphere of ProWein were the 110 “ProWein goes City” wine and spirits events organized for the public and trade at restaurants, hotels or specialist retail stores in the city of Düsseldorf. The spectrum ranged from a Slovenian wine evening and a wine author’s reading to a kitchen party with first-class vintners.

Upcoming ProWein Trade Fairs

In 2019, ProWein will be held from March 17 – 19 in Düsseldorf, Germany. The next event in Messe Düsseldorf’s wine trade fair portfolio will be ProWine Asia from April 24 – 27, 2018 in Singapore, followed by ProWine China in Shanghai from November 13 – 15, 2018. For further information on visiting or exhibiting at any of these events, contact Messe Düsseldorf North America, 150 North Michigan Avenue, Suite 2920, Chicago, IL 60601. Telephone: (312) 781-5180; Fax: (312) 781-5188; E-mail: info@mdna.com; Visit www.prowein.com and http://www.mdna.com; Follow us on twitter at http://twitter.com/FoodBev_MDNA

For hotel and travel information, contact TTI Travel, Inc. at (866) 674-3476; Fax: (212) 674-3477; E-mail: info@ttitravel.net; www.traveltradeint.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/ProWein.tradefair
Twitter: https://twitter.com/ProWein

Press Contact:Anne Meerboth-Maltz
Tel. (312) 781-5185
Fax (312) 781-5188
Email: ameerboth@mdna.com

Messe Düsseldorf North America
150 North Michigan Avenue
Suite 2920
Chicago, IL 60601

(Prowein Press Release March 20, 2018)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf, Germany – Schiller’s Impressions

Beer and Wine Producer Belgium

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl and Chef Dieter Samyn, BToo

Owner and winemaker Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, was in town (Washington DC). Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, organized a winemaker dinner with him at the trendy BToo Restaurant on 14th Street NW.

40 German wine lovers had a great time with the excellent wines of Christian L. Stahl and the super food of Chef Dieter Samyn. The amazing Belgian/ French/ American food of Chef Dieter Symyn went very well with the bone-dry Franken wines of Christian L. Stahl.

Invitation

Dear Wine Folks,

you are in for a very special treat. Please join me on April 5, 2018 for a one-of-a-kind wine pairing dinner with Christian Stahl from Germany. Christian belongs to the wild generation of young wine makers in Germany who clearly want to renounce wine folklore, who clearly want to work with grape varieties true to their region, who clearly want to produce only upper premium quality wines.

Christian’s wines appeal to the demanding palate and to the ambitious gastronomy (Christian himself is also a brilliant chef!). And I do not need to mention that the menu Bart and Dieter created to match the wines will be outstanding!

For this dinner don’t think “Riesling”. Yes, I personally love German Rieslings, but there is more to German wine than Riesling. The majority of the 13 wine regions in Germany are not just “Riesling”. Christian Stahl makes wine in Franken. The Franken region straddles along the Main River (yes, that’s the river that you see when you land at Frankfurt am Main airport). The Main is with more than 320 miles the longest river lying entirely in Germany, going from East to West and flowing into the Rhine River in Mainz. This river rivals the beauty of the Mosel River with its many twist and turns and horseshoe bends. The Franken wine region starts just 60 miles east of Frankfurt Airport and is an easy 45 minute ride on the Autobahn. On your next stop over in Frankfurt - take a break and check it out!

Signature grape in Franken is the “Silvaner”. Silvaner is an ancient variety originally from Central Europe in Transylvania. During the 30-year war, around the mid 17-hundreds the grape came to the Franken region in Germany. Christian Stahl produces extremely racy, excitingly sleek Silvaner that can age very well.

Christian also focuses on two other unique German varieties: Müller-Thurgau and Scheurebe. Müller-Thurgau is a crossing of Riesling with Madeleine-Royale created in the late 19-hundreds. Christian understands to bring out the sexiness of the grape and to make a Müller-Thurgau that will keep you thinking about it. Scheurebe was created in 1916 by viticulturist Dr. Scheu. It is often regarded as the German answer of Sauvignon-Blanc. He crossed Riesling with Bouquet Blanc and created a grape that brings out wines with a lively acidity and intense, captivating aromas of lemongrass, papaya, passion fruit.

See you at the dinner.

CHEERS
Annette

US$69.69 per person (excluding tax and gratuity)

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, at BToo in Washington DC, USA, with Chef Dieter Samyn

Winzerhof Stahl

With 3/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2018, Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, belongs to the elite of winemakers in Germany. Winzerhof Stahl is in Franken. Like so many other colleagues from this region, Christian L. Stahl’s Franken wines are virtually unknown outside of Germany.

Within Germany, however, Christian has shown a very strong performance. When Christian Stahl took over the winery of his parents about 10 years ago, the vineyard area totaled 2 hectares. Within a decade, he has gone to 20 hectares. When Christian Stahl took over, the winery was not even mentioned in Germany’s wine guides, like the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. Within a decade, he has gone from 0/5 to 3/5 grapes. Christian got the second grape in 2012 and the third grape in 2014.

Dry, Fresh, Crisp White Wines

All of the wines of Winzerhof Stahl are bone-dry. He does not produce any sweet-style (fruity-sweet or noble-sweet) wines. Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a German wine in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. German wines as a rule are dry wines.

Steffen Christmann, the President of the VDP, the German elite wine maker association, estimates that 95% of German wine beyond a price point of Euro 15 is dry. Christian Witte, Domain Administrator of Schloss Johannisberg, says that 85% of the wines he exports to the US are sweet-style. This was 95% 10 years ago. Thus, with his bone-dry wines, Christian L. Stahl is in a niche in the American market, but in a rapidly expanding niche as the world discovers German dry wine.

Wine Classification

Christian Stahl belongs to the group of German winemakers, who go their own way in terms of classifying and naming their wines. Also, he does not sell his wines in the traditional Bocksbeutel bottle, as most of his colleagues do in Franken, but in regular bottles, as in the rest of Germany. Right from the beginning when he took over, he has been using screw caps only.

With regard to classifying his wines, Christian disregards the German (standard) classification of 1971 and markets all his wines as Qualitätswein b.A. But he is not in the group of winemakers, who have instead adopted the VDP approach to classify their wines. He has developed his own, innovative classification system, playing with his name Stahl (= steel).

Christian Stahl groups his wines into 3 categories:

Top: Edel STAHL (= precious steel)
Middle: DAMASZENER STAHL
Entry: feder STAHL

Winzerhof Stahl

Winzerhof Stahl is located in Auernhofen in the Franken wine area. Winemaking is only a recent activity in the Stahl family. Until the mid-1980s, Winzerhof Stahl did not exist. The Stahl family was doing farming and did not make any wine. Christian’s father then decided to acquire vineyards and to shift to winemaking. Today, the vineyard area totals 20 hectares. Winzerhof Stahl also includes a wine restaurant with 200 seats; the food there is at the highest level, as are the Winzerhof Stahl wines.

Pictures: At Winzerhof Stahl

Christian L. Stahl

Born in 1978, Christian has been in charge of Winzerhof Stahl since 2005. He started his education at Weingut Stein in Würzburg (apprenticeship) in 1999, then spent some time with the biodynamic winemaker Jakob-Peter Kühn in the Rheingau and finished his studies with a Diploma at the Geisenheim University.

Picture: The Stahl Family (facebook)

The Menu

Pictures: The Menu

Welcome

Headcheese
Sparkling wine, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Secco

First Couse

Foie gras lollipop, cherries, speculoos cookies
Rosé, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Second Course

Cured seabass, avocado and cucumber, Persian lemon
Silvaner, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Third Course

White Asparagus, morel mushroom, slow poached egg
Müller-Thurgau, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Fourth Course

Faroe Island Salmon, ramps, griddled fiddlehead fern
Hasennest Steep Slope, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Müller Thurgau, Premier Cru

Fifth Course

Almond Cake, passion-mango sorbet, lemon thyme
Scheurebe, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

The Dinner Wines

We enjoyed 6 wines, all (except for the last wine which we had with the dessert) bone-dry, non-Riesling and very affordable.

Sparkling wine, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Secco

Not well known in the world, but Germany is the largest market for sparkling wine in the world. 1 out of 4 bottles of sparkling wine produced around the globe is consumed in Germany. The Germans love bubblies.

50% Scheurebe and 50% Riesling. Brut. A lightly sparkling wine, i.e. the carbon dioxide pressure is much less than in a regular sparkling wine. It is almost a still wine which is a bit fizzy. Delicious.

Rosé, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

A lovely floral, bright, silky roséthat is great for sipping! ...

Silvaner, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Silvaner (primarily grown in Alsace and Germany) is the signature grape of Franken. In Alsace, it is one of the four grape varieties that can be used to produce Alsace Grand Cru wine, although only in one vineyard, Zotzenberg. Subtle in aroma and mild in acidity. Well done Christian.

Müller-Thurgau, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Müller-Thurgau is a white grape variety that was created by Hermann Müller from the Swiss Canton of Thurgau in 1882. It is a crossing of Riesling and Madeleine Royale.

Hasennest Steep Slope, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016 Müller Thurgau, Premier Cru

This Müller-Thurgau comes from the Hasennest (rabbit nest), one of Christian's best vineyards.

Scheurebe, Winzerhof Stahl, 2016

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo

Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo on 14th Street in Washington DC, NW, is a leading restaurant in the Nation's Capital. Annette Schiller and I love to go to winemaker dinners at BToo and organize ouerselves winemaker dinners there. The food of BToo Chef Dieter Samyn and Belga Cafe/ BToo Executive Chef Bart Vandaele is always most creative and delicious.

Pictures: BToo on 14th Street, Washington DC, NW

Chef Bart is a fun guy to hang around with and guide us through the evening. And BToo has a separate room in the basement that is perfect for special events like winemaker dinners.

Picture: Fuad Issa, Annette Schiller, Bart M. Vandaele, Christian Schiller, Laurant Lala, Elite Wines, Etienne Verdier, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard and Greet De Keyser, Bart M. Vandaele's Partner. See: Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

Chef Dieter Samyn

Dieter Samyn was born and raised in Belgium. As a graduate of the Hotelschool Ter duinen, after several internships at Michelin starred restaurants in France, Spain and Belgium, he started working for Alain Ducasse, a 3 star Michelin chef, where he worked at Le Louis XV, Le Plaza Athenee and Spoon. From there he went to Peter Goossens, another 3 star Michelin chef located in Belgium, where he worked with for 4 years. In 2013, he joint Chef Bart at B Too.

Pictures: Winemaker Christian L. Stahl and Chef Dieter Samyn

Christian L. Stahl in the US

Christian has been coming to the US since 2016. His first tasting in the US in January 2016 at Cleveland Park Fine Wines and Liquor Store. See: Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

Pictures: Christian L. and Simone Stahl at Cleveland Park Fine Wines and Liquor Store in Washington DC, with Importer Chris Bartha, General Manager Anthony Quinn and Christian Schiller.

Later in the year, when Christian came for the second time, he was our guest of honor at our Riesling Party 2016, where he presented his wines. See: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

Pictures: Christian Stahl at Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia

In January 2017 Annette organized a winemaker dinner with him at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia. See: Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl at Evo Bistro in McLean, VA

Before the dinner, Annette and Christian Schiller, had invited to a reception with Christian L. Stahl had their private home. We had Rappahanock oysters from Virginia and Stahl wine. They paired very well. See: Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Pictures: Oysters and Stahl Wines

Later in the year, we visited Christian L. Stahl at the Winzerhof Stahl in Franken and experienced first hand that Christian is not only a gifted winemaker but also a Highly talented chef. Those who came on the Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 will definitely remember the out-of-this-world lunch Christian cooked for us at Winzerhof Stahl. See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Lunch at Winzerhof Stahl, with Chef Christian L. Stahl. See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy

I had met Christian some time ago in Germany at the top Restaurant SchauMahl in Frankfurt/ Germany, were he came for a winemaker dinner.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller with Christian Stahl in Frankfurt. See: The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

Anthony Quinn's Impressions

Anthony Quinn on Facebook: Great evening and one that we are thrilled to continue here tonight at Cleveland Park Wine & Spirits join us all Cleveland Park Business Association Cleveland Park in the City Cleveland Park Life with Christian Stahl the owner-winemaker-chef of his own Christian L. Stahl wines in #Franken #Germany 5-8PM, taste here, #freewinetasting enjoy relax smile grin laugh, languish and linger and long and love yourselves, where you are, the moment, ALL! Five wines to taste tonight : 1) Bes of Silvaner 2) Spark sparkling 3) Pink dry rose 4) Muller Thurghau and the 5) Summertime blend of #Bacchus #MullerThurgau and #Silvaner - YES si oui Prosit to one and to all.

Picture: Christian L. Stahl and Anthony Quinn

Thank you Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller for with B Too restaurant on 14th Street NW Washington DC, we rocked it too, so much happiness, so much joy, everyone pleased, circulating around, one glorious family and community of those that took the time to come and be a part of this 5-course meal last night, with five of Christian's wines. Christian spoke soooooo well in English ( just imagine what he could have done in German ?!?! It does beg the question as he, too made reference to that, and he told so many great jokes and stories and drew us all in, with Annette later filling in more precise specifics about the grapes. ). A grand event, I was thrilled and honored to be there, to be included, met Richard and Marta from Brasil, McCall from North Carolina, Raymond ( that would buy but would not drive back into DC to get the wines ), Thomas, Al, Albert, Martin, Tom, Reinhard - and so many others -... COME JOIN US tonight, 202-363-4265 call if you have any questions! Cheers all! #DrinkGermanWeine!

Bye-bye

Many thanks for a great evening.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Christian Stahl

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

Picture: Wine Pairing Lunch and Tour at Weingut Louis Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Owners Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Our final stop on the Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 was in Nierstein, south of Mainz, at Weingut Louis Guntrum. L. Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum were our hosts.

Pictures: Welcome

"Guntrum is back" writes Stuart Pigott in his latest review of the Rheinhessen region. The Guntrum family makes wine has been making wine since 1648. Today, L. Konstantin Guntrum produces about 70.000 cases of wine annually with own fruit from its vinyards totalling 11 hectares (8.000 cases) and with purchased fruit ( 62.000 cases). In its haydays of its almost 400 years of history, the Guntrum family used to own 280 hectares of vineyard land.

Pictures: Recent Stuart Pigott and Robert Parker Ratings of Weingut Louis Guntrum

In addition to its world class wines, Weingut Louis Guntrum was also known for making more affordable wine and selling it all over the world. The current generation, Louis Konstantin and his wife, is clearly refocussing on quality and does this very successfully as Stuart Pigott is testifying in his lates Rheinhessen report on JamesSuckling.com. On my recent flight from Frankfurt to Washington DC, I was served as Louis Guntrum wine in Business Class.

Picture: Ombiasy Germany-South and Alsace Wine Tour 2017

We started the visit with a glass of sparkling wine in the courtyard of Weingut Louis Guntrum, overlooking the part of the Rhine River where during World War II U.S.General Patton crossed the river. Following a most interesting tour of the large and old cellar we sat down with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum for a tasting with a light lunch, which Stephanie Guntrum had prepared for us. Konstantin opened a number of very special wines for us, including the wine the Guntrums served at their wedding and a noble sweet wine from 1976, the year Annette and I got married.

Pictures: Starting with a Sekt

History

The Guntrum family started to make wine in 1648 and has been involved in wine production ever since. The Guntrums were French Huguenots who fled France to escape Catholic oppression.

The 8th generation, Louis Jean George Guntrum, built today's estate building in 1923. It impresses with its stunning location right on the banks of the Rhine river between Nierstein and Oppenheim.

Today, Weingut Louis Guntrum is owned and managed by the 11th generation, Louis Konstantin Guntrum and his wife Stephanie Guntrum.

During the French Revolution, the Guntrum family fled across the Rhine river and temporarily relocated in Bensheim. In 1909, Louis Guntrum returned to Nierstein and established the Louis Guntrum estate as it is known today.

In February 1945, during World War II, U.S.General Patton occupied the winery and the family mansion, having crossed the Rhein river directly at the Louis Guntrum estate.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Louis Guntrum

Overall production is about 70.000 cases of wine, of which 62.000 cases are produced by purchasing fruit and 8.000 cases from own grapes.

The vineyard area totals 11 hectares in the following sites: Niersteiner Bergkirche, Heiligenbaum, Hipping, Ölberg, Orbel, Paterberg and Pettental; as well as in the Oppenheimer Herrenberg, Kreuz, Sackträger and Schützenhütte.

Riesling is the most important grape variety accounting for 40%. Other grape varieties include Silvaner, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Silvaner, Gewürztraminer.

Pictures: Stephanie and Konstantin Wedding Barrel and Wine (2003)

Wine-pairing Lunch

After the tour of the winery we enjoyed a family-style wine pairing lunch, which was prepared by Stephanie Guntrum.

Pictures: Wine-pairing Lunch

The Food

We had a light, delicious lunch prepared by Stephanie Guntrum.

Quiche Lorraine with Mixed Leaf Lettuces

Apple Tarte with Fresh, Whipped Cream

The Wines

2016 Louis Guntrum PERLfein - Louis Guntrum Secco Euro 6.50

2003 Stephanie and Konstantin Wedding Wine

2016 Louis Guntrum Nierstein Silvaner trocken Euro10

2015 Louis Guntrum Oppenheim Sackträger Riesling trocken Euro15

87 points Falstaff 2016

2012 Louis Guntrum Nierstein Hipping Riesling Louis Guntrum Grosses Gewächs Euro25

89 points Falstaff 2016

Falstaff 2017: The Grosses Gewächs wines of Louis Guntrum are getting close to the top wines of the region.

Louis Guntrum Grosses Gewächs is a trademark of Weingut Louis Guntrum as opposed to the VDP.Grosses Gewächs of the VDP, which can only be used by members of the VDP.

The Hipping is a famous VDP. Grosse Lage. Konstantin explained that his parcel is right between those of Weingut Gunderloch and Weingut Schätzel, both members of the VDP. He applies to his winemaking process in the vineyard and in the cellar the same strict rules the VDP producers are obliged to follow..

2014 Louis Guntrum Pinot Noir Réserve Euro30

89 points Meiningers Rotweipreis 2016

2015 Louis Guntrum Nierstein Bergkirche Riesling Kabinett Euro9

45 g/ l RS

84 points Gault Millau 2017

1976 Louis Guntrum Dienheimer Falkenberg Riesling Auslese Euro175

Annette and I got married in 1976. Thank you for this very special wine.

Louis Guntrum Riesling in Business Class/ Lufthansa

On the way back to the USA I could enjoy more Louis Guntrum wines on the Lufthansa flight Frankfurt to Washington DC. In Lufhansa business class there is always one dry German wine among the selection of 6 wines. This time it was a Louis Guntrum Riesling!

Picture: Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter)

At the April 2018 event of the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter), Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR & WineTours, provided an introduction to Bordeaux.

The focus was on good value Bordeaux wines. The American Wine Society charged US$25 for this event, including wine and food. As a result, the focus was not on the ultra-premium wines of world class Bordeaux producers that are known all over the world. The wines Annette poured were mostly in the US$20 to US40 range.

Annette led a similar tasting about a year ago at the John Marshall Chapter of the American Wine Society. See: Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society, USA/ France

Pictures: Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society (John Marshall Chapter), USA

Almost all of the wines Annette presented were from producers we know personnally and have visited on a Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours. Annette Schiller organizes wine tours to Germany, Burgundy, the Rhône Valley and Bordeaux.

See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Picture: Annette Schiller at the 2016 American Wine Society National Conference. See: The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Invitation

BORDEAUX - the name is synonymous with the wines of legend: the 1crus such as Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, which costa thousand $ or more a bottle. Howeve there is an ocean of wines from lesser known Châteaux and the second and third wines of famous Châteaux, that do not at all break the bank and are of stellar quality. Annette Schiller, who leads tours to the Bordeaux wine region, has 10 wines selected for this event from all important Bordeaux appellations: Médoc, Saint-Emilion, Graves, Sauterne, and she will show us that there are a lot of excellent, very affordable Bordeaux wines on the American market.

See you there.

Angela Grant
American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter)

Pictures: Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter)

Best Value Wines

All wines were "best value" wines, for a variety of reasons:

First, 3 wines were petit château wines (Château Haut-Sorillon, Château Beauséjour and Château Les Arromans) - wines made by the 7.500 or so no-name Bordeaux producers that are not in the limelight but make excellent wines at reasonable prices.

Second, there was 1 Cru Bourgeois wine (Clos du Moulin). Generally, Cru Bourgeois wines are "good value" wines..

Third, 2 wines were the second wines of world-renowned, classified producers: La Parde de Haut Bailly is the second wine of Château Haut Bailly. Les Griffons de Pichon Baron is one of the 3 wines of Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

Fourth, 2 wines were the little brother of a world-renowned, classified Bordeaux producer (Château Daugay/ Château Angélus and Clos des Lunes/ Domaine de Chevalier ).

Fifth, we had 2 grands vins of classified producers (Château Lafon-Rochet and Château Doisy-Védrines). Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. Château Doisy-Védrines, the largest of the Doisy estates and a 2éme Cru Classé Barsac property.

The prices below are including taxes and freight.

Rouge

2016 Château Haut-Sorillon, Bordeaux Superieur
Trader Joe`s (US$9.53)

Picture: 2016 Château Haut-Sorillon, Bordeaux Superieur

Château Haut-Sorillon is not one of the 300 or so winemakers in Bordeaux that produce a premium Bordeaux which sells en primeur for 50 to 500 Euros per bottle. No, Château Haut-Sorillon is one of the other 7.500 producers or so that are not in the limelight and that make so called petit château Bordeaux wines. These producers have to struggle against the competition of wines from all over the world, including the New World. In my view, many of these petit château Bordeaux producers, such as Château Haut-Sorillon, offer very good value for the price.

2014 Château Beauséjour, Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion
www.moraswines.com (US$25.90)

Picture: 2014 Château Beauséjour, Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion

Château Beauséjour is another petit château Bordeaux producers, located in one of the Saint-Emilion satelite regions, Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion. We always visit Château Beauséjouron the ombiasy tour and have lunch there. For centuries Château Beauséjour (and Château Langais) have been in the possession of the Dupuy family. Since 1947 Gérard’s father Alain has been convinced that the best wines stem from vineyards and cellars that are managed acroecologically, in harmony with the ecosystem. Since 1996 the château is certified organic by “Ecocert”.

Recently, Château Beauséjour wines have become available in the US.

Pictures: At Château Beauséjour. See: Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: Sommelier Moez Ben Achour and former Chef de Cuisine Paul Stearman from Marcel's, one of the Top Restaurants in Washington DC, Tasting with the Wines of Gérard Dupuy. See: From Millésime Bio in Montpellier, France, to Bistro Bis in Washington DC, USA: Gérard Dupuy and his Château Beausejour Wines in AOC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion

2012 Château Daugay, Grand Cru, Saint-Émilion
MacArthur Beverages, DC (US$27.48)

Picture: 2012 Château Daugay, Grand Cru, Saint-Émilion

Château Daugay is linked through ownership to Château Angélus. In fact, there was a period where the vineyards of Château Daugay were part of Château Angélus. Château Daugay is owned by the Grenié-de Boüard family that co-owns Château Angélus. Château Angélus is one of the only four (Angelus, Ausonne, Cheval Blanc, Pavie) wine producing estates classified as premier grand cru classé A in the Saint-Emilion appellation.

Jacques and Christian de Boüard de Laforest ran Château Angelus until 1985, when Hubert de Boüard de Laforest took over. He was joined in 1987 by Jean-Bernard Grenié, then by Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal in 2012. Looking ahead, Angélus is henceforward helmed by Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, soon to be joined by her cousin Thierry Grenié-de Boüard. Both represent the eighth generation of the Boüard de Laforest family.

Pictures: Jean-Bernard Grenié, Annette Schiller, Panos Kakaviatos and Christian Schiller in Washington DC. See: Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Château Angélus and Château Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: At Château Angelus. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2010 Château Clos du Moulin, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc
Sherry Lehman, NYC (US$19.95)

Picture: 2010 Château Moulin, Cru Bourgeois, Médoc

Château Clos du Moulin is located in Bégadan, way up in the North of the Médoc. It is owned and operated by Stefan Paeffgen, a career changer who holds a Doctorate in agricultural science. In another life he worked in the agriculture industry in his home country Germany and in Scandinavia. He always had a passion for the wines of the Médoc and at age 46, he was at a crossroad and made the decision to go back to practical agriculture. He searched for a winery and finally settled in Bégadan, north of St.-Estèphe. Today, his Vignobles Paeffgen comprise 4 châteaux: Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus as well as Château Clos du Moulin and Château Moulin de Lestagne.

When we visit him, we always stay for the evening and have a charcuterie and cheese dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen.

The roots of Château Clos du Moulin can be traced back to the 19th century. The Boyer family, the former owner, used to live there. Château Clos du Moulin is also a Cru Bourgeois in the original classification of 1932. The Cru Bourgeois status was however lost in 2003. Stephan Paeffgen was successful in regaining it in 2011, after he had taken over.

11 hectares in St. Christoly and Couqueques. 45.000 – 56.000 bottles. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot.

Pictures: Wine Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Clos du Moulin, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2012 La Parde de Haut Bailly, Pessac
www.mycanals.com (US$29.15)

Picture: 2012 La Parde de Haut Bailly, Pessac

La Parde de Haut Bailly is the second wine of Château Haut Bailly. Château Haut-Bailly is in the Pessac-Leognan appellation, classified as a Graves Cru Classé. The estate was established in the 16th century but got its name in the 17th century, when it was purchased by Firmin Le Bailly, a Parisian banker. It was bought and sold numerous times during the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. Today it is owned by the family of the late Robert G. Wilmers, an American banker who passed away in 2017.

Picture: Annette Schiller with Daina Paulin and Robert G. Wilmers, Owner, in New York, See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Picture: Champagne Reception at Château Haut-Bailly with our charming host, Diana Paulin. See. Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2014 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Pauillac
www.grapesthewineco.com (US$40.32)

Picture: 2014 Les Griffons de Pichon Baron, Pauillac

Les Griffons de Pichon Baron is one of the 3 wines of Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé.

Pictures: Tour at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé. See: Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Pictures: Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé. See: Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

2014 Château Lafon Rochet, Saint-Éstèphe
MacArthur Beverages, DC (US$42.31)

Picture: 2014 Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Éstèphe

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Owner Basile Tesseron in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Pictures: Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Pictures: At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Blanc

2015 Château Les Arromans, Entre-Deux-Mers, Blanc
Rodman's, Washington DC (US$13.20)

Picture: 2015 Château Les Arromans, Entre-Deux-Mers, Blanc

Château Les Arromans is a petit château Bordeaux producer. Joel Duffau is owner and winemaker. The wines of Joel Duffau are widely available in the Washingtin DC area.

Picture: With Owners/ Winemakers Joel and Sandrine Duffau. See: Entre-Deux-Mers Wines and Alsatian Cuisine: Lunch at L‘Auberge Chez Francois with Winemaker Joel Duffau and Chef Jacques Haeringer, USA/ France

Pictures: Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

2015 Clos des Lunes, Lune Blanche, Blanc, Bordeaux
The Vineyard, McLean (US$18.00)

2015 Clos des Lunes, Lune Blanche, Blanc, Bordeaux

Clos des Lunes in the Sauternes Region was founded a little before 2012, its debut vintage, by Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, in Pessac Leognan. His son Hugo manages the estate on a day-to-day basis and the same winemaking team that makes Chevalier's rarefied bottles is responsible for Clos des Lunes' portfolio of three white wines (Lune d'Or, Lune d'Argent, Lune Blanche).

"With Lune d’Or, our ambitions are extremely high. Everything comes down to a meticulous selection that produces a very small quantity of just 20 barrels each year. This wine sits alongside the world’s greatest.

Lune d’Argent is the heart of Clos des Lunes’ production. We firmly believe in the future of this legendary terroir and its truly original style. With a touch of French oak, the Sémillon is dense and rich, the Sauvignon Blanc refined and precise. This cuvée of dry white wine promises to convey all the magic of Sauternes.

Lune Blanche provides ultimate refreshment. Soft and harmonious, it is not matured in oak and intended to be enjoyed in its youth. It offers vivacious, pure ripe fruit that will bring pleasure to all occasions."

This is Clos des Lunes "entry-level" cuvée. 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Olivier Bernard advises to "drink young, on the fruit," so Lune Blanche should be enjoyed at peak from now up to 2019.

There is also La Petite Lune, Blanc and Rouge. La Petite Lune is a collaborative effort of the Bernard and Stéphane Derenoncourt. The grapes are bought from selective producers. The wine is made at Domaine de Chaevalier by the Domaine de Chevalier team.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Olivier and Hugo Bernard, Owners of Domaine de Chevalier, in New York. See: Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Pictures: With Owner Olivier Bernard in the Cellar. See: Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Noble Sweet

2013 Château Doisy-Védrines, 2éme Cru Class, Sauternes
Total Wine McLean (US$31.76)

2013 Château Doisy-Védrines, 2éme Cru Class, Sauternes

Berry Bros. & Rudd: Château Doisy-Védrines,the largest of the Doisy estates and a 2éme Cru Classé Barsac property has been owned by the Castéja family since 1946. The family also own Batailley and Trotte Vieille.

Doisy-Védrines's 27 hectares of vineyards are situated on the highest plateau in Barsac and are planted with 80% Sémillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle. The grapes are picked in several "tries" and the yields are painfully low, even by Sauternes standards. Fermentation starts in temperature-controlled, stainless steel vats for around a week before the must is transferred to 100% new oak barriques. The wine remains in barrique for 18-20 months.

Doisy-Védrines is one of the richest and most full-bodied wines in Barsac and it significantly uses the Sauternes AC rather than the Barsac one. It needs at least 5 years of bottle ageing and the best vintages will keep for up to 25 years.

Picture: Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society (Northern Virginia Chapter) - 10 Wines

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

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Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

From Millésime Bio in Montpellier, France, to Bistro Bis in Washington DC, USA: Gérard Dupuy and his Château Beausejour Wines in AOC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Château Angélus and Château Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Clos du Moulin, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Vintage 2014 in Bottle: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) on 2017 North America Tour in New York - Schiller’s Favorites

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Entre-Deux-Mers Wines and Alsatian Cuisine: Lunch at L‘Auberge Chez Francois with Winemaker Joel Duffau and Chef Jacques Haeringer, USA/ France

Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

A Visit of the Vineyards of Alsace– Presented by Annette Schiller at the John Marshall Chapter of the American Wine Society, USA/ France

Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society (John Marshall Chapter), USA

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Picture: Vintage 1953 - Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé and Annette Schiller

Château Malartic-Lagravière came into existence when Count Hippolyte de Maurès de Malartic, an illustrious servant to the Kings of France, bought the Domaine Lagravière. Malartic-Lagravière was always recognized for its outstanding terroir and the wines always had an excellent reputation. In the Graves classification of 1953 Château Malartic-Lagravière was one of the only six wine producing estates being awarded with the Cru Classé status for both, its red and white wines. Throughout the centuries the château changed hands several times, and one could witness some ups and downs.

I quote Chris Kissack: “If we are to single out one figure responsible for the revitalisation of Château Malartic-Lagravière it is Alfred-Alexandre Bonnie”. The bonnie family purchased the château in 1966 and undertook major renovations, in particular in the cellar, to bring the château up to modern wine making technics. Today Jean-Jacques Bonnie - Alexandre’s son - and his wife Séverine are the ones in charge of the property.

Pictures: Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

History

Domaine de Lagravière, recognized since time immemorial for its excellent terroir, was purchased at the end of the eighteenth century by the family of Count Hippolyte de Maurès de Malartic. Serving the armies of the Kings of France, this Admiral fought against the English on the many seas of the world, showing special bravery in 1756 during the battle of Quebec.

The estate was then bought in 1850 by Madame Arnaud Ricard, who added the name Malartic to that of Lagravière as a tribute to the former owners.

After land reorganisation and the acquisition of some small plots, the estate took on the form which it was to keep until the 1950s.

The Marly family were the last of the Ricard ancestry to run the Château. Of particular note, Jacques Marly was estate manager from 1947 to 1990.

Having enjoyed an excellent reputation from the beginning of the nineteenth century, Château Malartic-Lagravière was one of only six properties in Bordeaux to enter the 1953 Graves classification for both its red and white wines.

At the end of 1996, the Château entered a new era with the arrival of the Bonnie familly.

Pictures: Welcome - Annette Schiller and Jean-Jacques Bonnie

Bonnie Family

Today, the taste for adventure still runs through the veins of those that shape its destiny.

After a brief period under the stewardship of champagne maker Laurent-Perrier, a new course was set in late 1996 when Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie bought the estate.

Beginning in 1997, this Belgian couple embarked on an extensive programme of changes. Assisted from 2003 by their son Jean-Jacques and his wife Séverine, and joined by their eldest daughter, Véronique and husband Bruno in 2008, the Château is in good hands!

Their top priority is to instil quality at all levels: the care lavished on the vines is worthy of the estate’s superb viticultural heritage and the ultra efficient wine making facilities installed in 1997 are still among the most sophisticated in Bordeaux.

The cellars, function rooms, Château and park provide a superb setting that reflects the high quality of the wines.

As a result of all these efforts, Malartic-Lagravière has regained the splendour that earned its wines their international reputation…and the adventure is now a family affair!

Pictures: Getting Ready for the Harvest 2017 at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Terroir

Château Malartic-Lagravière is situated on a high terrace that has been deeply etched by the Eau Blanche stream and its tributaries. It sits on 8-meter-deep deposits of gravelly soil dating from the Quaternary period.

The evocative name of ‘Lagravière’ underlines the great quality manifest in the soils of this vineyard, reputed for its location on the finest gravel hillock in Léognan.

Whilst the layer of gravel makes for excellent surface drainage, the shell-rich limestone sub-soil, made up of fossils from warm seas and veins of clay, store large amounts of water. This ensures an adequate supply for the vine, even during the most severe droughts.

The permeable soil, perfect amounts of sunshine and limited vulnerability to the vagaries of the weather are all favourable factors. These have been further enhanced by the ‘sur mesure’ – tailored approach to the management of the vines that has been pursued by the Bonnie family ever since their arrival.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

Vinification

Designed with architect Bernard Mazières in 1998, the winery was one of the first to adopt a grape transport system entirely by gravity: after manual harvests and double sorting on vibrating tables, grapes are transported to the vats and then to the barrels only by gravity.

The vat room is also highly innovative. Its octagonal layout houses 20 stainless steel vats and 10 wooden ones, all conical and temperature-controlled. Being small, each one can accommodate the fruit from specific plots for individual vinification.

Pictures: In the Tank Cellar

Aging

After blending, the wine is left to age in a 1200-barrel capacity air-conditioned cellar with controlled humidity levels. 25 to 35% of the barrels are replaced every year with new ones from the best coopers.

A smaller 200-barrel capacity cellar is reserved for the white wines.

The tasting room is located between the two cellars and it is here, with the greatest of care, that the blending is carried out. With the advice of oenologist Michel Rolland, the owners and the cellar master create a blend that will give appropriate structure to the complexity and elegance that characterizes the wines of Malartic-Lagravière, thereby producing wines with a potential to age.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar

Malartic-Lagravière at a Glance

Size 46ha of red grapes (45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot) and 7ha of white (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Sémillon)

Owners Alfred-Alexandre and Michèle Bonnie

Run by Siblings Jean-Jacques Bonnie and Véronique Bonnie-Laplane, with their partners Séverine Bonnie and Bruno Laplane

Consultant Michel Rolland since 1998. Today he oversees both red and white wines, though the whites were first directed by Denis Dubourdieu and Athanase Fakorellis (whose last vintage was 2012).

Second wine La Réserve de Malartic (65% of production) Other properties Château Gazin- Rocquencourt (Pessac- Léognan), DiamAndes (Argentina)

The Historic Residence of Château Malartic Lagravière

The historic residence dates from the 1850s. It is a family house where Michèle and Alfred like to entertain and receive their friends.

The entrance with its Italian tiles faces the winter garden whose soft light makes it a delightful place to pause. The two lounges, with their large fireplaces, and the dining rooms have been designed to combine family life with receptions.

Pictures: The Historic Residence of Château Malartic Lagravière

Lunch at the Historic Residence of Château Malartic Lagravière

We had lunch at the historic residence of Château Malartic Lagravière, prepared by the chef of the Bonnie family.

The Food

The Bonnie Family Chef

The Wines

2014 La Reserve de Malartic Blanc

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 21

2012 La Reserve de Malartic Rouge

Wine-searcher average price in US$: 22

Pictures: Christian Schiller at the New Maxwell Park Wine Bar in Washington DC, USA

Washington DC has a fantastic wine bar scene. See: Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA (2017)

During the second half of last year, 5 new wine bars opened in Washington DC: Maxwell Park, Dio, The Dabney Cellar, Primrose, and Little Pearl.

Fritz Hahn (in the Washington Post on January 11, 2018) and Alicia Cypress (in Seven Fifty Daily on March 19, 2018) reviewed the new wine bars.

Alicia Cypress (Seven Fifty Daily - March 19, 2018): A revolution is happening in the nation’s capital that has nothing to do with the government. During the past decade, the city once known for stodgy steakhouses and one-note wine lists has witnessed a flourishing restaurant scene that’s now as vibrant as its revitalized neighborhoods. For some time now, Washington, D.C., has been filling up with Michelin-starred restaurants, innovative cuisine, and wine lists that go beyond big Napa Cabs and traditional Bordeaux and Burgundies. And there’s an almost palpable momentum to the speed with which new wine-focused establishments are popping up around the city.

In the latter half of 2017, five new neighborhood wine bars opened: Maxwell Park, Dio, The Dabney Cellar, Primrose, and Little Pearl. Places like District Winery—from the owners of New York’s Brooklyn Winery—and City Winery, which has locations in New York, Boston, Atlanta, Chicago, and Nashville, also recently planted their urban-winemaking flags in D.C. The proprietors of the new wine bars say that they were pleasantly surprised to see so many similar businesses opening all at once, but each pointed to D.C.’s friendly alcohol laws, its growing millennial population, and the presence of an increasing number of importers in the area as reasons to set up shop there.

I visited the new wine bars:

Dio's wine list is funky, with only natural, hands-off wines from all over the world. The wines are not served in proper wine but juice glasses. The food is charcuterie and cheese.

Primrose serves exclusively French natural wines. The food is classical French bistro food. I like the Steak Frites.

Maxwell Park has quickly become a go-to spot for industry professionals. The themed wine menu of about 30 selections changes monthly.

The Dabney Cellar belongs to the Michelin-starred Dabney Restaurant. The wine menu is more classic than ultra-trendy. The food includes a selection of oysters.

Little Pearl, from the team behind the Michelin-starred Pineapple and Pearls and Rose’s Luxury, is coffee shop during the day and wine bar after 5:30pm. The focus is on two dozen, mostly natural wines by the glass and a short, snacky food menu.

Washington DC now also has a cider bar: Anxo

The Dabney Cellar

Fritz Hahn: This gem of a bar, hidden below the Dabney restaurant inside a 19th-century rowhouse’s brick-walled basement, meets all the criteria for a date-night destination. It’s cozy, but not too crowded. Lively, but not so loud you can’t have a conversation.

Dabney chef Jeremiah Langhorne and partner Alex Zink were inspired by trips to Paris and Montreal, where cellar bars act as a waiting area for restaurants or as a place to grab a late-night snack. Upstairs, at the Michelin-starred restaurant, Langhorne works his magic cooking regional ingredients over an open hearth. Downstairs, plates are covered with gorgeous, paper-thin slices of Tennessee ham from Bob Woods’s Hamery; seasonal, regional cheeses; and expertly shucked Chesapeake and Atlantic oysters from small producers. “Fundamentally and philosophically,” Zink says, the Dabney and its wine cellar share a sensibility, but downstairs, “the lights are low and the music’s louder.”

About 25 wines are available by the glass in the basement, and the wine list is reprinted every day. One staple: “wines that pair well with oysters and beautiful cheese,” says Zink, who’s the beverage director for both levels. The menu is more classic than ultra-trendy, with well-chosen wines from the Loire, Italy and, on one recent visit, a blend from Delaplane’s extraordinary, award-winning RdV Vineyards.

Although the Dabney Cellar’s down a slightly treacherous flight of stone stairs, with no sign other than a frosted-glass window, it has become popular since its early-December debut. There are only 30 seats, and the bar opens at 6 p.m. If you show up after 7, there’s probably going to be a wait.

On busy nights, expect to be told to come back for an update in 30 or 45 minutes. “We wanted to keep it more casual, and we don’t know how long people are going to stay,” Zink says. “Some people are grabbing a bite pre-dinner. Some people settle in with a bottle of wine and put together a dinner.”

Once you get a seat, you’ll just want to settle in and stay.

1222 Ninth St. NW
Wednesday - Saturday open

Maxwell Park

Alicia Cypress: Kroll made a name for himself in D.C.’s wine community while working at the Neighborhood Restaurant Group and Proof before opening Maxwell Park last June with his two partners, local somms Niki Lang and Daniel Runnerstrom. Their corner bar in D.C.’s Shaw neighborhood is a T-shirt-and-jeans kind of place and has quickly become a go-to spot for local residents and industry professionals.

Kroll’s goal was to open a “pure” wine bar in which more than 80 percent of sales would come strictly from the wine. He’s been able to achieve this by means of a significant by-the-glass list and by limiting the food menu to small plates.

Pictures: At Maxwell Park with Brent Kroll and Niki Lang

“I wanted to design a [wine bar] where you look around and everyone is drinking wine, there’s a wall of glasses, there’s just wine all over the place—there’s a giant selection that rotates all the time,” Kroll says. “What’s funny is, I did the most ambitious thing I could possibly think about in rotating wine, and our regulars are still waiting for the next theme, still waiting for the next month, when we change about 40 different wines, because they want to keep trying something new, and that’s what I think a wine bar should do … We should keep people engaged with what we’re onto next.”

1336 Ninth St. NW

Primrose

Fritz Hahn: The first time you sit at Primrose’s zinc bar, you might need to be reminded to look at the wine list. The scene is mesmerizing, transporting you to a quirkily hip Parisian bistro with its pressed-tin ceiling above robin’s-egg-blue walls, gleaming hardwood communal tables and lamps swaddled with ostrich feathers.

Primrose is the first restaurant from veteran sommelier Sebastian Zutant — the nattily dressed guy who’s been behind the wine lists at Komi, Proof and the Red Hen — and his wife, Lauren Winter, who’s made a mark on the District with her bar and restaurant designs for Tail Up Goat, Calico and Tiger Fork. Together, they’ve created a wine-focused modern French bistro — “not super rustic, a little updated,” Zutant says — serving classic dishes such as coq au vin and a vegetarian French onion soup, while pouring natural wines — a somewhat ambiguous term that may refer to wines that are organic, use indigenous yeast, remain unfiltered, or a combination of all three — from France and a smaller selection of cocktails.

Zutant, who roams the room as the sommelier, describes the list of 14 wines by the glass as “always shifting. I’ve changed the wines by the glass list five times, and we’ve been open for a month.”

His menu mixes small French producers and some of his own creations produced at Virginia’s Early Mountain Vineyards and sold under the label Lightwell Survey. “I’ve gotten really dedicated to the idea that I can pour stuff no one else can get,” he says. On this list, he’s into the poulsard, a minerally, salty red with an edge from France’s Jura region, and soft, easy-drinking cinsault from Languedoc. You may not recognize the style (or the grapes) right away, but Zutant’s selection — and his enthusiasm — make everything effortlessly approachable.

Primrose is a bar that invites lingering — whether you’re splitting an order of pâté and sipping a few lesser-known wines, or settling in for a full meal. “We just wanted to open this little dreamland and have people get excited about some geeky wines,” Zutant says.

So far, it’s working.

3000 12th St. NE

See also: Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Dio

Alicia Cypress: Stacey Khoury-Diaz, the owner of Dio, which opened last September, says that her childhood in Sonoma, California—as well as coming from an agricultural background rather than being a formally trained sommelier—are what make her natural wine bar unique. “It’s a different approach than formal sommeliers,” she says. “I grew up in wine country, and my exposure to wine wasn’t based on learning [and wasn’t] necessarily a passion; it was just a part of life and ingrained into everything we did. It was our economy, it was our culture, it was our social life.”

Located in D.C.’s H Street NE corridor, Dio draws on the neighborhood’s large millennial population. In the few years it took Khoury-Diaz to open the bar, she says she saw a “complete 180” in how the community and industry viewed the natural wines she was advocating for and making the focus of her bar.

“When I first met with distributors before Dio was open … there was a lot of reservation, a lot of hesitation from people in the industry,” Khoury-Diaz says. “[They asked,] ‘Can you really develop a full program around just this kind of wine?’ … There’s definitely been a change in the way they’re selling natural wines and the way they speak about them, and they see a lot more promise than they did before.”

904 H St. NE

See also:
Winemaker Dinner with David Reynaud, Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhone Valley, at Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC, USA/ France
Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines … A Primer for “Green” Wines

Little Pearl

Fritz Hahn: Little Pearl, from the team behind the Michelin-starred Pineapple and Pearls and Rose’s Luxury, is two businesses in one. Stop into the converted carriage house at the Hill Center between 8 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., and you’ll be greeted with breakfast wraps, gluten-free cinnamon toast and caffeinated beverages. But return after 5:30 p.m., and the lights are lower and the music is funkier. The focus is now on two dozen wines by the glass and a short, snacky menu that features a savory okonomiyaki spring roll — the traditional Japanese pancake that’s rolled and sliced like maki — and a rich, moreish smoked onion dip with crackling house-fried potato chips.

The wine list is less funky than some others, with familiar styles and regions, but even so, it’s embracing the natural movement: That flinty cabernet franc from the Loire? Organic and unfiltered with vineyard yeast. The cabernet sauvignon/syrah blend from Napa is organic and sustainable, even if the menu doesn’t boast about it. (Also winning points, and making this prime territory for a baby shower: two non-alcoholic sparkling “wines” from Germany’s Jörg Geiger.) If you’re anticipating a nice tax break — or celebrating a special night out — go right for the menu’s “Special Moments” section. It sounds like a line from Kay Jewelers, but it features a handful of special reserve wines, such as a nine-year-old chardonnay from Burgundy ($32).

Your enjoyment may depend on where you sit: The solarium-style dining room, with its glass walls and ceiling, becomes clatteringly loud when full on weekends, while the seven-seat coffee counter-turned-bar at the front is more laid-back and comfortable.

921 Pennsylvania Ave. SE
Sun + Mon closed

Anxo

Inspired by the pintxo bars of San Sebastian, the lively main level of the Truxton Circle location is perfect for walk-in guests during all operating hours. Bite-sized snacks called pintxos (PEEN-CHOs) are offered as the perfect compliment to the most extensive cider list in the world. No reservations required; full menu is available.

Forty-nine seats upstairs are reserved for dining guests, including the nine-seat service bar. Walk-ins are accommodated when possible but reservations are recommended on busy nights and can be made up to three weeks in advance.

Zagat: At this innovative Basque cider house in Truxton Circle NW, a dizzying array of artisan ciders (some fermented on-site) are served by the glass and the bottle, accompanied by Spanish pintxos, cured meats and steak and seafood dishes. The handsome rustic-industrial setting is dominated by a huge wooden cask, and enhanced with blue-patterned walls, weathered brick and wood detailing.

300 Florida Ave. NW

See also: Cider in the World and Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann

Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen has been in the hands of the Wittmann family since 1663. Attachment to the native soil runs deep and in order to leave a legacy of healthy soil and vines the vineyards are farmed biodynamically. The old vaulted underground cellar with its consistent temperature provides the perfect conditions for the wine to ferment spontaneously with its own natural yeast in wooden casks. The 30 hectares of vineyards are planted primarily with Riesling. Because of the almost mediterranean climate in southern Rheinhessen, the Burgundy grapes also have a long tradition in viticulture.

Pictures: At Weingut Wittmann

Philipp Wittmann, the current owner, regularly gets awards for his wines. Philipp Wittmann is married to Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann, who owns and runs her own winery in the Mosel. Eva was at her estate in the Mosel Valley during our visit of Weingut Wittmann.

The visit of Weingut Wittmann took place during the 2017 harvest. The new wines were already fermenting in the cellar. When we arrived, Philipp Wittmann was working in the cellar. He welcomed us in the old vaulted underground cellar and talked a bit with us. However, for security reasons (CO2) we could not stay long with him in the cellar.

We toured the impressive wine cellar and had a tasting in the modern tasting room.

Pictures: Philipp Wittmann - Welcome!

Weingut Wittmann

For several centuries the Wittmanns have been wine farmers in the town of Westhofen, in the southern part of Rheinhessen. Today, Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann (who herself is a gifted winemaker who also owns and runs her own winery in the Mosel valley) and Philipp’s parents Günter and Elisabeth Wittmann divide the tasks running the 25 hectare estate.

Philipp Wittmann: The Wittmanns and their ancestors have been wine-growers in the old market town of Westhofen, in southern Rheinhessen, where the first documented of viticulture in the family dates from 1663. Today’s estate developed from this long tradition over the course of centuries. The length of an estate’s viticultural tradition really says nothing about the quality of an estate’s wines. Perhaps, though, it does say something about the bond one has with the piece of land that one cultivates. Since 1990, we have cultivated our vineyards according to controlled ecological guidelines, and since 2004, biodynamically. By doing so, our soil will remain healthy for future generations, too.

Pictures: In the Barrel Cellar with Philip Wittmann

Vineyards

Riesling is the dominant grape of choice but also the Pinot varietals (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris) and Silvaner have a long tradition in Westhofen. Philipp makes many wines, but the estate is famous for its 4 Grosse Lage sites and the Grosses Gewächs wines it produces there: Morstein, Kirchspie, Brunnenhäuschen and Aulerde. Morstein GG is seen as Phillip Wittmann’s his greatest wine but each of them is special in their own way.

Phillip Wittmann: Aulerde is our warmest site. Westhofen's southern to southeastern vineyard slopes rise from the glacial valley of the Rhine to the rim of a high plateau. The Aulerde vineyard lies at the foot of the protective eastern and southeastern slopes of the Kirchspiel site. The vines here are facing slightly south. The upper layers of a small portion of Aulerde are heavy clayish marl with only a very small amount of limestone. The subsoil contains clayish or gravelly sand (it is only here that we grow our Riesling vines). However, most of the site consists of meter-high layers of loess.

The Kirchspiel site opens toward the Rhine like an amphitheater. Its southern and southeastern exposure protects the vines from cold westerly winds – and accounts for the excellent microclimate of the vineyard. The soil structure is similar to that of the Morstein site, marked by clayish marl interspersed with limestone. Limestone is the predominant component of the subsoil, too.

Picture: VDP.Rheinhessen President Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, and VDP.Rheinhessen Vice-President H.O. Spanier, Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Kühling-Gillot, with Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours

The Brunnenhäuschen site is situated east of Morstein and above the Steingrube site. Due to its altitude, grapes ripen slowly and harvesting usually takes place after a very long growing season. The finest portion of Brunnenhäuschen is in the old parcel known as “Abtserde.” We cultivate half a hectare (1.2 acres) of Riesling here. This site is marked by clayish marl that is rich in limestone. Due to a high iron oxide content, parts of the soil are reddish in color, also referred to as “terra rossa.” The subsoil is interspersed with large limestone rocks.

Morstein is situated on the south-facing slope that stretches from Gundersheim to Westhofen. The subsoil consists of massive limestone rocks. The first documented mention of the site dates from 1282. Today, we own about 4 ha (10 acres) in the best (southeastern exposure) parcel of this vineyard. The upper layer of soil is primarily heavy clayish marl interspersed with limestone. The subsoil is also heavy and marked by layers of limestone that help circulate water. This ensures that the vines are well supplied with nutrients and minerals, and accounts for the mineral character of our Morstein wines.

Pictures: Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, with Annette and Christian Schiller at Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf. See: Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf, Germany – Schiller’s Impressions

Picture: Günter and Philipp Wittmann

Loosen Bros./ USA

In the US, Weingut Wittmann is imported by Loosen Bros./ USA, the wine import company of Ernst Loosen and his brother.

Loosen Bros./ USA: A (bio)dynamic Family Estate in Germany's Rheinhessen Region.

The Wittmann family has been growing grapes and producing wine in the small Rheinhessen village of Westhofen since 1663. Today, the estate cultivates 62 acres of vines in the rolling limestone hills found in the southern part of the region, just west of the Rhine river valley. They have been pioneers in developing the full-bodied, well-balanced style of dry wines for which the region has become known. And they were early adopters of organic (1990) and biodynamic (2004) viticulture.

Riesling is the dominant grape variety, accounting for 65% of the estate’s vineyard area. They also produce the three Pinot varieties (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir), as well as Silvaner. In addition, small quantities of Scheurebe, Chardonnay and some minor varieties are grown.

The estate has as its foundation the pursuit of balanced wines that have tension, depth and intensity, but at the same time fresh and elegant. Philipp Wittmann looks for natural balance in the vineyards, in order to slow the ripening process and harvest grapes that have fully developed flavors, but are not overripe. The Wittmann family has developed a deep bond with the land they cultivate. This respect for nature and commitment to quality earned Philipp Germany’s Winemaker of the Year 2014.

See: Weingut Wittmann now with Dr. Loosen Imports in the USA

Pictures: Tasting

The Wines we Tasted

2016 Weingut Wittmann Silvaner trocken
2016 Weingut Wittmann Riesling trocken
2015 Weingut Wittmann Westhofener Silvaner trocken

2016 Weingut Wittmann Aulerde Riesling GG trocken

Robertparker.com “The Wine Advocat °233” (Stephan Reinhardt) Oktober 31st, 2017: 92 points, Aulerde Riesling GG 2016: “The 2016 Aulerde Riesling GG is purer, fresher and more mineral than ever before. Coming from deep and coolish marly soils and vines planted in 1951, this is a flinty/smoky and lemony Riesling with stunning purity and a coolish character. Pure, fresh and intense on the silky-textured palate, this is a well-structured, intense but still elegant dry Riesling with ripe fruit flavors, fine grippy tannins and lingering salinity. One of the finest Aulerede GGs I can remember.” Drink 2018-2032

2016 Weingut Wittmann Kirchspiel Riesling GG trocken

Robertparker.com “The Wine Advocat °233” (Stephan Reinhardt) Oktober 31st, 2017: 92 points, Kirchspiel Riesling GG 2016: “From an east-facing, very calcareous grand cru that gives more spicy rather than fruity flavors, the intensely yellow colored 2016 Kirchspiel Riesling GG offers a pure, chalky and spicy nose with concentrated, ripe Riesling aromas intermixed with crushed stones. Full-bodied, intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a juicy, silky and elegant Riesling with stimulating concentration and salinity. Very fine and complex. An impressive Riesling from chalk.”

2016 Weingut Wittmann Morstein Riesling GG trocken

Robertparker.com “The Wine Advocat °233” (Stephan Reinhardt) Oktober 31st, 2017: 94 points, Morstein Riesling GG 2016: “The 2016 Morstein Riesling GG is super clear, fresh and intense but also pure, fine and chalky on the nose, indicating remarkable finesse and complexity. The attack on the palate is really fresh if not piquant, the wine pure, fresh and mineral, with almost no flesh but lots of salt and minerals as well as fine, juicy tannins. Still terribly young but precise and well-defined, this is an endlessly salty and stimulating Morstein for a long-distance run. Gorgeous and very promising in its finesse, elegance and purity. A classic from late-ripening grapes. Great, great finesse here and a very long, pure finish.” Drink 2020-2040

Picture: Annette Schiller, Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann in Pfaffenheim, Alsace, and Chef Bart Vandaele at Belga Café

Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann in Pfaffenheim, Alsace, was in town (Washington DC). Annette Schiller and I had the chance to enjoy his wines and his company twice.

We attended a fun winemaker dinner with Jean-Claude at Bart Vandaele's trendy Belga Café. A couple of days later, Jean-Claude was in McLean, Virginia, to present his wines at The Vineyard Wine Store.

We will see him again in a few weeks in Pfaffenheim, Alsace, on the Germany-South and Alsace Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours. See: Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Domaine Rieflé-Landmann

Viticulture has been a Rieflé family affair for 6 generations, since 1850. From the 1980s, Annick and Jean-Claude Rieflé were at the helm. They were joined at the domaine by their sons, Thomas and Paul, in 2009 and 2010, respectively. Thomas manages the vineyard and Paul is in charge of sales and marketing. Recently, the Rieflé family took over the vineyards of Seppi Landmann and renamed the estate to Domaine Rieflé-Landmann. The vineyard area totals 23 hectares, including a plot in the Grand Cru vineyard Steinert.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller, Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann in Pfaffenheim, Alsace, and Chef Bart Vandaele at Belga Café

Domaine Rieflé-Landmann (Stephan Reinhard/ Robert Parker)

Stephan Reinhard (Robert Parker's Wine Advocate): Domaine Rieflé-Landmann is the new name of the former Domaine Rieflé, which is located in a beautiful old winemaker's house that was built in Pfaffenheim, Southern Alsace, in 1609. That's because the Rieflé family took over the vineyards from the vigneron and bon vivant Seppi Landmann, a living legend who started his late winemaking career in 1982 without owning a winery. Landmann had rented a cellar in Soultzmatt where he produced some remarkably good, if not mythic wines beyond all traditions (Cuvée Sophie Marceau, Cuvée Erotique, Hors La Loi, Vallée Noble, Grand Cru Zinnkoepflé...). His personal brand still exists (otherwise he would not have sold his vineyards) so that's why the renamed Domaine Rieflé-Landmann markets its wines under two different signatures: the well established Domaine Rieflé and the Seppi Landmann brand.

Pictures: Reception

The family, today represented by the young brothers Thomas (who cares for the vineyards) and Paul Rieflé (who does all the marketing things and showed me the vineyards and the wines), farms 79 different blocks adding up to 23 hectares (57 acres). The vines are located close to the winery in Pfaffenheim and Rouffach and, since Landmann sold his vines, also in Westhalten and Soultzmatt. They are classified for six different appellations: Crémant d'Alsace, Alsace, Alsace Côte de Rouffach, Alsace Vallée Noble, Alsace Grand Cru Steinert and Alsace Grand Cru Zinnkoepflé. Paul hopes that the lieu-dits of Pfaffenheim -- Bergweingarten (a small single vineyard within the Côte de Rouffach and adjacent to the Grand Cru Steinert which is, and always was, planted 90% with Gewurztraminer) and Bihl (east of the village) -- will receive Premier Cru status one day.

The Rieflé brothers share a humanist and socially responsible approach to winemaking. Faced with the realities of a global market, they took inspiration from the famous quote by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: "We do not inherit the Earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children."

Since years, the domaine farmed their vineyards organically and with the recently released 2014 vintage, Rieflé-Landmann is an AB-certified organic wine producer. Unusual enough yet visionary, perhaps the manual work is outsourced to a local association for professional reintegration, what Paul Rieflé calls "a part of our humanist approach and support for the local community." It also "engenders a strong identity which cannot be delocalized, and which is a guarantee of sustainability in a rapidly changing world," Paul believes.

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann, Alsace, at Bart Vandaele's Belga Café on Capitol Hill in Washington DC, USA/ Alsace

The domaine produces a wide but well structured range of wines -- variety wines for every day, villages wines for more ambitious wine lovers and the grands crus and late harvested wines for hedonists -- that reflect the originality of the Alsatian wine culture and the specific terroirs. The most prominent single vineyard of the former Domaine Rieflé is the Grand Cru Steinert which overlooks the village of Pfaffenheim, in which the family holds 65 ares. It is based on an oolitic limestone massif, which is scarcely covered by topsoil in several places. Whereas Riesling is planted on the uppermost part of the cru, Pinot Gris likes it halfway down on the flattest parts. To stress the influence of the terroir, Rieflé produced a blend of Riesling and Pinot Gris under the Grand Cru Steinert appellation in 2014; whereas in 2013 the Seppi Landmann Grand Cru Zinnkoepflé was already an assemblage of four varieties. Will this be the future at Rieflé-Landmann: selling terroir instead of varieties? This would be courageous and pioneering.

Although by far I did not taste all the wines produced at Rieflé-Landmann -- curious to taste the Bergweingarten once -- the wine quality is very good if not excellent, whereas the prices are still extremely fair. This is a very promising domaine to discover and some of the wines should (or will) be available in the US.

The Dinner at Belga Café

Chef Bart M. Vandaele, Belga Café and BToo

Bart M. Vandaele is one of the best chefs in Washington DC. He started out as the chef of the EU Ambassador to the US before opening Belga Café on the Hill, behind the Capitol. He then opened B Too on 14th Street NW, which is much larger and bit more casual than the Belga Café.

Picture: Fuad Issa, Annette Schiller, Bart M. Vandaele, Christian Schiller, Laurant Lala, Etienne Verdier, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard and Greet De Keyser, Bart M. Vandaele's Partner. See: Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

bravo: Bart Vandaele eats, breathes, and sleeps restaurants and food. With a rambunctious personality and flare for strong opinions, Bart loves to share his passions for Belgian cuisine, Belgian beer, and Belgian culture. He is the Executive Chef and Owner of Belga Café, a restaurant in Washington, DC specializing in Belgian food and beer, and the upcoming B Too. Bart began culinary school at age 12, externing at Michelin-starred Au Vigneron, and moving on to work at renowned Belgian restaurants including Piet Huysentruyt and Restaurant Scholteshof, which earned two Michelin stars during his tenure as Sous Chef.

Pictures: Chef Bart Vandaele in Action

Bart moved to DC in 1997 to serve as Executive Chef to the Ambassador to the European Union, followed by the Dutch Embassy. In 2006, Bart won StarChef.com's “Rising Star Chef” award, and in 2007 he prepared the Belgian Beer Lover’s Degustation at the James Beard House. He was also knighted in the order of Leopold II in 2009. Bart’s cooking is a combination of rustic and refined, playful yet soulful.

The Dinner

Reception

Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Blanc Brut Domaine Rieflé NV

First

Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Blanc Brut Domaine Rieflé NV
Tarte Flambée Waffle

Second

Pinot Blanc Domaine Rieflé 2015
House made Boudin Blanc
Green cabbage/ Juniper/ Green apple

Third

Riesling Steinert Grand Cru Domaine Rieflé 2014
Hudson Valley foie gras bouillon
Tortellini of butternut/ Chervil

Fourth

Pinot Noir L'Étoffe Domaine Rieflé 2016
Hay smoked squab breast
Morel mushrooms/ Green peas/ Spring onions/ squab confit

Fifth

Pinot Gris Steinert Grand Cru Domaine Rieflé 2011
Chimay beer cheese & red endive salad

Sixth

Crémant d'Alsace Domaine Rieflé
Petite surprise aux chocolate Belge

The Wines

Crémant d'Alsace Blanc de Blanc Brut Domaine Rieflé NV

Crémant is a sparkling wine produced in the Méthode Champenoise in France, but not a Champagne. Currently, there are eight appellations in France for sparkling wine which include the designation Crémant in their name: Crémant d'Alsace, Crémant de Bordeaux, Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Die, Crémant du Jura, Crémant de Limoux, Crémant de Loire, Crémant de Savoie.

As a new development in the EU, the Crémant designation has started to appear outside of France, including in Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany.

This Crémant Brut, made from 40% Pinot Blanc, 40% Auxerrois, 10% Pinot Gris and 10% Auxerrois is floral and delicately fruity on the nose with notes of brioche. It is generous on the palate, with fine bubbles and a sugar dosage which remains discreet.

Pinot Blanc Domaine Rieflé 2015

This Pinot Blanc displays summery notes of yellow stone fruits and flowers. Aromas of ripe peach and apricot are underpinned by good acidity making this a fresh and fruity wine with a very
pleasant texture on the palate.

Alcohol: 13%
Acidity: 5,95 g/l (tartric)
Residual sugar: 1.7 g

Riesling Steinert Grand Cru Domaine Rieflé 2014

The Grand Cru Steinert vineyard lies 13km south of Colmar and overlooks the village of Pfaffenheim. It sits just below the Schauenberg mountain, known as the mountain of contemplation, which is considered to be an important place of natural energy.

Steinert literally refers to the stony nature of the terroir. It lies opposite the Alsace plain, the Rhine and the Black Forest and faces towards the rising sun. The hard, homogeneous, dry and filtering soil sits directly on the oolithic limestone bedrock which is partially visible on the surface. Oolites are small spherical grains, shaped like fish eggs, that were formed on the surface of the rocks by marine microfossils. Wines from the Steinert vineyards are characterised by their powerful structure combined with a subtle finesse and underlying menthol notes.

Domaine Rieflé has 65 ares of vines on this terroir. Riesling is planted on the uppermost part of the parcel and Pinot Gris half-way down on the flattest parts.

Alcohol: 12°
Acidity : 9,6 g/l (tartric)
Residual sugar: 8 g

Pinot Noir L'Étoffe Domaine Rieflé 2016

Forbes: White grapes are typically what first jump to mind when we think of Alsace – Riesling in particular, plus Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat make up about 90% of their plantings. Pinot Noir, however, counts for the other 10% and its numbers have slowly been growing in recent years; it is the only red variety in the region and is now the fifth most planted grape overall.

What accounts for its recent emergence? Winemakers point to climate change (which enables the grapes to reach consistent phenolic ripeness), and the next generation’s intentionally broad experience globally before returning to their home region to succeed their parents in the vineyard and the cellar. Technically, it’s the region’s clay and limestone soils that are responsible for Alsatian Pinot’s light to medium body, red fruit aromas, vibrant acidity, and fresh tannins.

It is a silky red wine, with soft tannins and red fruits flavours. 100% Pinot Noir.

Alcohol: 13%
Acidity: 5.3 g/l (tartric)
Residual sugar: 0 g/l

Pinot Gris Steinert Grand Cru Domaine Rieflé 2011

This Grand Cru Steinert Pinot Gris opens up with an expressive bouquet of zesty yellow fruits such as pineapple and mango. Although smooth in texture, the limestone terroir imparts a fresh and acidic structure, which is accentuated by candied notes of quince and fig on the end palate.

The perfect partner for foie gras but you can also try it with a generously garnished tuna steak or with desserts such as pineapple fritters or crème brûlée.

Alcohol: 14.5%
Residual Sugar: 39.1 g/l
Tartaric Acid: 5.9 g/l

Crémant d'Alsace Domaine Rieflé

The Crémant parcels are generally situated on deep, predominantly sedimentary loess soils which produce very ripe grapes (particularly in Drotfeld).

This Crémant Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and offers zesty, small red fruits on the nose. It is generous on the palate, has fine bubbles and a sugar dosage which remains discreet.

The Tasting at The Vineyard in McLean, Virginia

A few days after the dinner at Belga Café, we met Jean-Claude Rieflé again at a tasting in one of Northern Virginia's leading winestores, The Vineyard in McLean.

Invitation

Come taste Alsatian wines with Domaine Rieflé owner and winemaker Jean-Claude and hear about his family's history as well as their current humanist and socially responsible approach to winemaking including their endeavour into organic agriculture.

The Rieflé family is deeply rooted in the history and culture of the Rhine. The domaine's very identity is inspired by the spirit of its beautiful winemaker’s house which was built in PFAFFENHEIM in 1609. It sits next to a magnificent church with a 13th century choir, the quintessence of Roman architecture. Six generations have built the family's winemaking tradition since it began in 1850.

Pictures: Tasting with Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann, Alsace, at The Vineyard in McLean, Virginia

The Wines Jean-Claude Rieflé Poured

Rieflé Crémant d'Alsace Brut, Alsace, France
Retail: $26.99
Our Price:18.99

Rieflé Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé, Alsace, France
Retail: $26.99
Our Price:18.99

2011 Rieflé Grand Cru Pinot Gris Steinert, Alsace, France
Retail: $39.99
Our Price:28.99

2014 Rieflé Grand Cru Riesling Steinert, Alsace, France
Retail: $39.99
Our Price:28.99

2016 Rieflé Pinot Noir, Alsace, France
Retail: $26.99
Our Price: 18.99

The Godfather of Alsace

Following his stay in the Washington DC/ Northern Virginia area, Jean-Claude travelled to Salt Lake in Utah and then further to the West Coast. On April 19th, he will be at Fig&Thistle in San Francisco.

We will see him again in a few weeks in Pfaffenheim, Alsace on the Germany-South and Alsace Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours. See: Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Winemaker Dinners with Chef Bart Vandaele

Annette Schiller and I have participated in several winemaker dinners at BToo and Belga Café during the past years (see below). In fact, Annette Schiller has organized a number of winemaker events/ dinners at BToo. And, there is a winemaker dinner organized by Annette with Daina Paulin of Château Bailly coming up on May 8th, 2018. See: Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018).

See:

Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, and Chef Dieter Samyn at BToo in Washington DC, USA

Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA

Winemaker Dinner with Château LAFON-ROCHET Wines and Winemaker Anaïs Maillet at Chef Bart Vandaele’s Hipp B Too Restaurant in Washington DC, US/France

Weingut Gunderloch– The New Generation: Owner Johannes Hasselbach in Washington DC, US

The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria

Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US

See also:

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Winemaker Dinner with David Reynaud, Domaine les Bruyeres, Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhône Valley, at Chef Bart Vandaele's BToo in Washington DC, USA/ France

Post-Rieslingfeier and Pre-Big Glou Dinner with 3 Top Winemakers from Germany at BToo in Washington DC: Clemens Busch, Immich-Batterieberg and Koehler-Ruprecht, USA

Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France

A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Pictures: Ombiasy WineTours at DC Wine Fest Spring 2018 Edition in Washington DC, USA

The DC Wine Fest took place on April 14, 2018, at Longview Gallery on 9th Street in Washington, DC, NW.

Annette and Christian Schiller had an Ombiasy WineTours booth at the DC Wine Fest Spring 2018 Edition. We promoted the ombiasy tours to France and Germany and poured 2 wines:

From France, a 2016 Château la Mothe du Barry Bordeaux Superieur.
From Germany, a 2016 Winzerhof Stahl Hasennest Müller Thurgau trocken.

More than 1000 people paid US$35/60 (VIP) to attend one of the 3 sessions. VIP ticket holder were admitted an hour earlier to their session. Session 1: 1-3pm; Session 2: 4:30-6:30pm; Session 3: 8:00-10:00pm.

DC Wine Fest: "Introducing the DC Wine Fest, an elevated wine tasting experience that aims to stimulate all of your senses. Come throw back some great food, take in some art, and enjoy live music performances, while tasting some of the best varietals from all over the world.

You’ll have the chance to sample wine to your heart's content, enjoy great food, check out the art on exhibit, and listen to some talented musicians.

All wine tastings are included in your ticket. We believe in responsible alcohol service. You can sample wine tastings during your session time until and unless you show visible signs of intoxication, at which point service stops.

VIP admission means you’ll gain early access one hour before the crowd, so you’ll have more time to sample and meet producers face-to-face. That is the only difference between VIP and General Admission tickets."

Annette Schiller's Ombiasy WineTours Booth

The Ombiasy WineTours booth was in the front room, right next to the music.

Picture: Ombiasy WineTours Booth with Annette Schiller

Pouring and Talking about the Tours

The crowd was young and overwhelmingly female.

Pictures: Annette Schiller Talking about the Ombiasy Tours and Pouring Wine

Bordeaux and Franken Wines

We poured 2 wines:

From France, a 2016 Château la Mothe du Barry Bordeaux Superieur.
From Germany, a 2016 Winzerhof Stahl Hasennest Müller Thurgau trocken.

Pictures: Bordeaux and Franken Wines

Winzerhof Stahl in Franken

Winzerhof Stahl is located in Auernhofen in the Franken wine area. Winemaking is only a recent activity in the Stahl family. Until the mid-1980s, Winzerhof Stahl did not exist. The Stahl family was doing farming and did not make any wine. Christian’s father then decided to acquire vineyards and to shift to winemaking. Today, the vineyard area totals 20 hectares. Winzerhof Stahl also includes a wine restaurant with 200 seats; the food there is at the highest level, as are the Winzerhof Stahl wines.

Born in 1978, Christian has been in charge of Winzerhof Stahl since 2005. He started his education at Weingut Stein in Würzburg (apprenticeship) in 1999, then spent some time with the biodynamic winemaker Jakob-Peter Kühn in the Rheingau and finished his studies with a Diploma at the Geisenheim University.

We visited Christian Stahl on the German-East Tour last year and had lunch at Winzerhof Stahl.

See:
Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History
Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy

Pictures: Lunch at Winzerhof Stahl, with Chef Christian L. Stahl.

Château La Mothe du Barry

Joël and Sandrine Duffau took over Château La Mothe du Barry vineyard in Moulon, the family home (nine generations of winegrowers), in 1985. The vines are planted ont the clay & limestone slopes of the village, a terroir the the Merlot grapes thrives on. From his studies and work palcements in France and abroad (Burgendy, Beaujolais, Rioja, California…) Joël retained his natural curiosity and a taste for discovering all things new which enable him, vintage after vintage, to evolve in his winegrowing and winemaking techniques.

This, in turn allows him to produce ever more expressive wines, of which the Cuvée le Barry praised every year in several wine guides. His other wines are also renowed for their quality, like his Entre-Deux-Mers, produced from vines palnted on boulbene ( finesiliceous soil) terroirs, situated in Naujean et Postiac (white grape varieties absolutely love boulbene terroirs!)

It’s because of Joël's passion for this terroir, so typicla of Entre-Deux-Mers area, but also because of his motivation to go back Nature and its core values that he started the process of converting to organic viticulture in 2009. The certification is obtained for all Bordeaux Superieur and Bordeaux Clairet with the vintage 2013.

We visited Joël and Sandrine Duffau on last year's Bordeaux Tour.

See:
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau at Château La Mothe du Barry and Château Les Arromans in the Heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers Region - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Pictures: Tasting with Joël and Sandrine Duffau the Wines of Château La Mothe du Barry at Château La Mothe Du Barry

Longview Gallery

Long View Gallery opened in 2006 as a small, Washington D.C. gallery focused mainly on local artists. Today it is still an art gallery but also operates as a venue for private functions such as the DC Wine Fest.

Pictures: At Longview Gallery

Music

There was live music.

Pictures: Music at DC Wine Fest

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017

Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund

JJ Prüm Winemaker Dinner at BToo in Washington DC/ USA, with Wilhelm Steifensand ("Herr Prüm") and Chef Bart Vandaele

Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

Entre-Deux-Mers Wines and Alsatian Cuisine: Lunch at L‘Auberge Chez Francois with Winemaker Joel Duffau and Chef Jacques Haeringer, USA/ France

The Wines from Entre Deux Mers Winemaker Joel Duffau

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Presented: 2016 German Vintage Tasting with Phil Bernstein of MacArthur Beverages, Washington DC, USA

Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Groebe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Groebe - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Invitation: Annette Schiller Presents "Abbey Wines" at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), USA - Friday, April 20th, 2018

Ruinart Dinner with Frédéric Panaïotis, Chef de Cave of Maison Ruinart, at Brasserie Beck, Washington DC, with Partner-Chef Brian McBride, USA

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Jean-Luc Colombo, Cornas, Rhône Valley, Presented his Portfolio at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Upcoming Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: April 2, 2018)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Cellar Master Manfred Zuffer – Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Choosing Malagasy Wine, in: Bradt Travel Guide Madagascar (Author: Christian G.E. Schiller)

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France

Prowein 2018 Strengthens Leading Position, Germany

Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Germany, and Chef Dieter Samyn at BToo in Washington DC, USA

Guntrum is Back (Stuart Pigott/ James Suckling): Wine Pairing Lunch and Tour at Weingut Louis Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Owners Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Best Value of Bordeaux Tasting with Annette Schiller at the American Wine Society, USA/ France

Lunch and Tour at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller's Favorites: New Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Winemaker Dinner with Jean-Claude Rieflé of Domaine Rieflé-Landmann, Alsace, at Bart Vandaele's Belga Café on Capitol Hill in Washington DC, USA/ Alsace

Ombiasy WineTours at DC Wine Fest Spring 2018 Edition, USA