Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Meinrad Perler, Agriloro SA

As part of the 2014 Digitul Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland, I explored the wines of Ticino during a post-conference press trip. This posting – Agriloro SA in Ticino, Switzerland: Dinner with Owner Meinrad Perler and Winery Tour - is the ninth in a series of postings (see below) emanating from my visit of Ticino.

See also:
Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland
Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Brivio Vini SA and Gialdi Vini SA in Mendrisio, Ticono, with Guido Brivio, Switzerland
Polenta and Ticino Wine at Grotto Bundi in Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting Cantina Kopp von der Crone Visini and Tasting with Barbara von der Crone and Paolo Visini in Barbengo, Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting (and Tasting the Wines of) Tamborini SA and Lunch with Valentina Tamborini, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland
Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland
Visit of (and Wine Tasting at) Vinattieri Ticinesi, Ticino, Switzerland
Agriloro SA in Ticino, Switzerland: Dinner with Owner Meinrad Perler and Winery Tour
Lunch at Ristorante Montalbano in Stabio, Switzerland

We met Meinrad Perler, the owner of Agriloro SA, twice during the tour. First, we had dinner with him, where we had a chance to taste his wines and talk with him about his wines, and second, during a quick stop at Agriloro SA, where Meinrad Perler showed us his new, impressive winemaking facility

Agriloro SA

Meinrad Perler is the son of a farmer in western, French-speaking Switzerland who initially went into banking, after having studied economics in London in the UK. When that career soured, he turned to his passion, winemaking, settling in Mendrisio. “It’s not the ideal location, too much rain in the wrong seasons, and hot, dry summers,” Meinrad Perler said. Still, the climate has not prevented him, in his late 70s now, from creating a world class winery with an annual production of 210,000 bottles a year and becoming Switzerland’s Winemaker of the Year in 2010.

Meinrad Perler’s wine journey started about 35 years ago, in 1981, when he bought Tenimento dell’Ör. Initially, all the grapes were sold to the co-operative. In 1994, Agriloro SA started to bottle (12.000 bottles).

Agriloro SA grows more than 2 dozens of different grape varieties. 3/4 are red grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdon, Pinot Noir and Syrah) and 1/4 white grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Chasselas, Petite Arvine, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc.

Agriolo SA comprises 2 estates, the Tenimento dell’Ör in Arzo and the Tenimento la Prella in Genestrerio, totaling 22 hectares. Agrilor SA produces single variety varieties wines as well as cuvees, made in stainless steel and barrique. The Sotto Bosco, for example, is blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamaret and Cabernet Franc. The Casimiro also contains exotic grape varieties like Marselan, Arinarnoa and Carmenere. The white wines too are made either in stainless steel or barrique and are single variety wines and assemblages. Overall, 1/3 of the wines are made in stainless steel and 2/3 in barrique.

In terms of sales, 20% goes to restaurants, 40% to retail and 40% is sold directly to consumers. About half od the visitors of the winery are from the German-speaking part of Switzerland. 

Dinner with Meinrad Perler

Meinrad Perler invited us for dinner at Albergo Svizzero, where we had a wonderful evening with his outstanding wines.

Pictures: Dinner with Francesco Tettamanti (who effective February 1, 2015, has become Deputy Managing Director of Agriloro SA) and Meinrad Perler

The Food of Chef Maurizio De Pedro

Albergo Svizzero: The love and passion for the restaurant industry that Renato Bordogna, who has been for over 30 years in charge of the Albergo Svizzero, offers customers, makes the restaurant a point of reference for gourmets. The choice is wide, based on quality and freshness of wholesome seasonal ingredients. Our young chef, Maurizio De Pedro, offers our customers his experience gained working for Gualtiero Marchesi and in famous Italian “Michelin star” restaurants.

Pictures: Francesco Tettamanti, Meinrad Perler, Director Renato Bordogna, Maurizio de Pedro and Christian G.E. Schiller at Albergo Svizzero

Pictures: 4 Courses Dinner Prepared by Chef Maurizio de Pedro

Pictures: Director Renato Bordogna and Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours

The Agriloro SA Wines

The Agriloro SA Wines we had at the Dinner.


2011 Cardonnay Tenimento dell’Ör

2012 Granito Tenimento dell’Ör - 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Pinot Gris


2011 Casimiro - IGT, Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Arinarnoa, Petit Verdot, Gamaret, Tannat, Marselan, Egiodola, Carmenere, maceration for about 20 days, aging for over 2 years in barrique, 50% new and 50% used

2007 Merlot Riserva Tenimento dell’Ör - Ticino DOC, 100% Merlot, long maceration in oak vats, aging in new oak barrels for 24 months

2011 Merlot Riserva Tenimento la Prella- Ticino DOC, 100% Merlot, 20 months in barrique


2009 Sottobosco

2008 Sottobosco - Red Ticino DOC, Merlot 75%, Cabernet Sauvignon 17%, 7% Gamaret, Carminoir 1%, the grapes come from the vineyards of the Tenimento dell’Ör in Arzo and of the Tenimento la Prella in Genestrerio., the grapes are vinified separately, maceration over 20 days in wood, aging for about 2 years in barriques of which 60% new and 40% second passage


2007 Syrah -Ticino DOC, 20 months in barrique

Agriloro SA Tour

We toured the impressive new winemaking facility of Agriloro SA on the following day.

Pictures: Touring Agriloro SA with Meinrad Perler

Bye-bye

Thanks Meinrad Perler for hosting us.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Meinrad Perler

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

The 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland 

The Wines of Weingut Saxer, a Winemaker in the German-speaking part of Switzerland

The Wines of Switzerland– Grand Tasting with (and Introduction to Swiss Wines by) Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz 

Pictures: Standing: Johannes Weber, Hofgut Falkenstein, Mosel (Saar), Christian Vogt, Weingut Karthäuserhof, Mosel (Ruwer), Klaus Peter Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mose,Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, Mosel (Saar)
Sitting: Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Julia Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
Eva Fricke, Weingut Eva Fricke, Rheingau
Not on the Picture: Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut Von Winning, Pfalz, Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Mosel (Saar)

Rieslingfeier is an annual two-day event in New York City that celebrates German Riesling. The cornerstone event is the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, very likely the greatest German wine "BYOB" dinner in the world, with both winemakers and guests bringing special bottles from their cellars to share. Side events, specialized seminars and retail tastings round out the yearly Rieslingfeier program. Rieslingfeier is orchestrated by Stephen Bitterolf of the vom Boden wine importing company.

This year, Rieslingfeier took place on the Friday, January 30 and Saturday, January 31. 11 winemakers attended, all belonging to the elite of German winemakers.

This posting, focusing on the 11 winemakers, who flew in from Germany, is part of a series covering the 2015 Rieslingfeier. Here is a list of all postings:

Coming-up: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA
The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 – Riesling Crawl, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 – Gala Dinner, USA

Most of the photos are mine. I also used a few photos which Roman Niewodniczanski of Weingut Van Volxem put on his facebook page. Thank you very much Roman.Here is a list of all postings:

Winemakers

All winemakers gave one seminar, poured their wines at a New York wine store during the Riesling Crawl and hosted 11 Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner guests at their table. Some of the winemakers attended the Rieslingfeier Welcome Party and some for them had side events before and after the Rieslingfeier core events.

Hofgut Falkenstein

Attending winemaker: Johannes Weber
Country, region: Germany, Mosel (Saar)

The Weber family farms about 8 hectares of mainly old Riesling vines (over 40% ungrafted) in a remote side valley of the Saar. Erich Weber and his wife, Marita, built up the property of the then-dilapidated Falkensteiner Hof (established in 1901) from scratch. In those days, Erich was one of the only organic growers in the region. The winemaking is old school; all the wines are vinified with ambient yeasts in old oak Fuder.

Picture: Rieslingfeier Seminar

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, with David Schildknecht

Their top vineyard sites are located on various south-to-southwest-facing hillsides, including the once highly rated Krettnacher Euchariusberg and Niedermenniger Herrenberg. The soil is primarily gray slate, which is typical for the Saar. The father-and-son team of Erich and Johannes Weber believe in low yields (one cane per vine) to produce light-bodied dry, off-dry and nobly sweet wines.

Seminar: Saar Diversity - with Hofgut Falkenstein, Van Volxem, Zilliken. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Rieslng Crawl: Johannes Weber (Hofgut Falkenstein) - Chambers Street Wines, 148 Chambers Street

Eva Fricke

Attending winemaker: Eva Fricke
Country, region: Germany, Rheingau

Eva Fricke does not come from the Rheingau, yet she may be part of the story of how the region saves itself. The Rheingau is perhaps the most famous winemaking region in Germany. However, over the last few decades the great names of centuries past seem to have lost something essential. There seems to be an unspoken philosophy of “good enough” and a complacency that has mired even some of the legends of this region. Leave it to an upstart from Saxony, a strong-minded winemaker with a few hectares in Kiedrich and Lorch, to try and change this trajectory.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Welcome Party, with Christian G.E. Schiller

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

After studying widely (in Australia, Bordeaux, the Piedmont, Spain) Eva returned to Germany to focus on the Rheingau. She worked with J.B. Becker and then with Johannes Leitz where she was the vineyard and operations manager. 2006 was the first vintage of her estate – microscopic quantities were produced. Still, she has quickly established a reputation in Germany and abroad with wines that have the textural breadth of Rheingau Rieslings, yet with uncommon rigor, focus, mineral.

Seminar: Terroir, Riesling and the Rhein - with Eva Fricke, Keller, Leitz. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Eva Fricke and Johannes Leitz - Union Square Wines, 140 Fourth Avenue at 13th Street

Immich-Batterieberg

Attending winemaker: Gernot Kollmann
Country, region: Germany, Mosel

One of Germany’s most erudite young winemakers, Gernot Kollmann has followed impressive turns at Van Volxem and Knebel with his current position, stewarding the once-dormant Immich-Batterieberg to the forefront of Mosel wine. Located in Enkirch, on the lower part of the Mittelmosel, its name and Jugendstil label refer to the Batterieberg or "demolition hill," a steep cliff face of solid slate blasted to rubble by Carl August Immich in the mid-1800s to make it cultivable.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Welcome Party, with Annette and Christian Schiller

Picture: Rieslingfeier Seminar

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, with Annette Schiller

The estate’s vineyards are located in Enkirch and the lineup (Batterieberg, Ellergrub, Steffensberg and Zweppwingert) recalls a previous legendary era in German wine, when all four were among the highest-ranked sites in the Clotten's 1897 viticultural tax map for the Prussian government. Grapes are hand-picked at extremely low yields and vinified close to dry in a combination of used barriques and stainless steel, utilizing exclusively ambient yeasts and minimal amounts of sulfur. Many of Kollmann's techniques would be familiar to Immich's 19th-century forebears, yet he is moving the estate squarely forward while staying rooted in tradition. The wines are compellingly vibrant and quintessentially terroir-driven.

Seminar: Riesling Reborn – with Immich-Betterieberg, with Van Volxem, Von Winning. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Andreas Hütwohl (Von Winning) and Gernot Kollmann (Immich-Batterieberg) - Crush Wines & Spirits, 153 East 57th Street

Karthäuserhof

Attending winemaker: Christian Vogt
Country, region: Germany, Mosel (Ruwer)

Winemaking here surely goes back to Roman times, though the “official” founding of the estate was in 1335. Napolean secularized the region in 1811 and the property was auctioned off in Paris. Miraculously, the family that bought the estate over 200 years ago still owns it. This is one of the oldest and most prestigious estates in Germany. Karthäuserhof is located in the Ruwer Valley; it is one of the smallest winemaking regions in Germany with around 200 hectares under vine. The vocabulary of the Ruwer includes the notes common to Riesling, the stone and citrus fruit, yet these are not the core of the matter. At their heart, Ruwer wines are about the forest.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Welcome Party, with Annette and Christian Schiller

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Crawl

Since vintage 2008, Christian Vogt has been in charge of the winemaking at Karthäuserhof. Christian worked closely with the legendary, retired winemaker Ludwig Breiling for a number of years – indeed Breiling still consults and there have been few significant changes either in vineyard work or cellar management. While the estate is well known for their Prädikat wines, uniquely, Karthäuserhof is equally as famous for its dry Rieslings.

Seminar: What is a Kabinett? - with Karthäuserhof, Egon Müller, Selbach-Oster. Moderators: John Gilman and Stephen Bitterolf

Riesling Crawl: Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof) - Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway

Keller

Attending winemakers: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller
Country, region: Germany, Rheinhessen

Founded in the late 18th century, there can be no doubt that winemaker Klaus Peter Keller and his wife, Julia, have brought this family estate to a pinnacle of German winemaking. In the last decade, they have refocused the winery on dry Riesling and have become a critical force in the renaissance of dry Riesling in Germany. Few estates have achieved the level of critical praise or have inspired such a fanatical following (a double-magnum of 2009 G-Max recently auctioned for nearly 4,000 euros, an unprecedented price for a dry German Riesling). Jancis Robinson, writing in the Financial Times, called Keller’s wines the “German Montrachets.” The German wine review Gault Millau has given Keller basically every award out there including "Producer of the Year,""Collection of the Year" and in 2007, "Dry Riesling of the Year.”

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Side Event at Le Bernadin

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Crawl

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

Located in the southern Rheinhessen, the home of Liebfraumilch and other ponderous horrors, the Keller’s home village of Flörsheim-Dalsheim is an unlikely hot spot for German winemaking. Yet, in the Middle Ages these were some of the most storied vineyards in Germany; the wines of Morstein, Hubacker, Kirchspiel and the Abtserde (currently considered a subplot of the Brunnenhäuschen) were all reserved for the top church officials, including the Bishop of Worms himself. Keller has almost single-handedly brought these sites back to fame (this time, a fame that far surpasses the clergy in Worms); these are statuesque wines, forceful and dense with a polished fruit yet, above all else, they flaunt their minerality and dance across the palate.

Seminar: Terroir, Riesling and the Rhein - with Eva Fricke, Keller, Leitz. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Klaus Peter Keller - Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street

Side events: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller told me that they presented their wines to a group of sommeliers on Thursday, January 30 at Thomas Keller’s Per Se Restaurant, followed by a winemaker dinner jointly with Egon Müller at Eric Rippert’s Le Bernadin on Friday, January 31.

Josef Leitz

Attending winemaker: Johannes Leitz
Country, region: Germany, Rheingau

Johannes “Josie” Leitz has become one of the more important winemakers in the Rheingau. Once the most celebrated and esteemed of German winemaking regions, the Rheingau has in the late 20th century and early 21st century been dominated by mediocrity. Josie and a new generation of younger growers (see Eva Fricke) are trying to change this.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, with Paul Grieco, Eva Fricke

Josie has grown the estate from just under 3 hectares to around 40 hectares and in so doing has established some of the most popular bottlings in the U.S. While the savvy marketing, with names like “Dragonstone,” “Eins, Zwei, Dry” and “Leitz Out” has helped, the quality in the bottle is undeniable. And while Leitz may be best known for these more popular bottlings, the estate produces a range of single-vineyard Rieslings from celebrated sites such as Berg Schlossberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rottland that are among the best being made in the Rheingau.

Seminar: Terroir, Riesling and the Rhein - with Eva Fricke, Keller, Leitz. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Eva Fricke and Johannes Leitz - Union Square Wines, 140 Fourth Avenue at 13th Street

Egon Müller

Attending winemaker: Egon Müller
Country, region: Germany, Mosel (Saar)

This is perhaps the most vaunted estate in Germany – as the wine writer John Gilman has put it, this is “the DRC of Germany.” The history of the estate as we know it today begins in the late 19th century with Egon Müller I – it was he who cemented the reputation of greatness at exhibits such as the 1900 Exhibition Universelle et Internationale in Paris. Egon Müller II ran the estate for only a few years, dying in a tractor accident in the vineyard in 1941. Egon Müller III returned from England as a prisoner of war in 1945 – this was his first harvest and he managed to bring in only 1,200 liters from 7.4 hectares. Egon Müller III died in 2001, though his son Egon Müller IV had been working at the estate since 1985 and has since continued the legacy of greatness.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Side Event at Le Bernadin

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Crawl, with Christian Schiller

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner, with Michael Skurnik

The focus at the estate is Prädikat wines – Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese and (gulp) BAs and TBAs. These are widely considered to be among the greatest white wines in the world, with a combination of intensity, fine-ness and elegance that is simply incomparable.

Seminar: What is a Kabinett? - with Karthäuserhof, Egon Müller, Selbach-Oster. Moderators: John Gilman and Stephen Bitterolf

Riesling Crawl: Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken - Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street

Side event: Winemaker dinner jointly with Klaus Peter Keller at Eric Rippert’s Le Bernadin on Friday, January 31.

Selbach-Oster

Attending winemakers: Johannes & Barbara Selbach
Country, region: Germany, Mosel

Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara, with the increasing help of son Sebastian and daughter Hannah, manage their vineyards and winery with passion and respect for the estate’s traditions. A full 50% of their 21 hectares are on their original rootstocks. Top sites include Zeltinger Himmelreich, Schlossberg and Sonnenuhr as well as Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher Himmelreich and Domprobst. These vineyards of weathered Devonian slate are on a steep, contiguous slope facing south-south west and represent some of the most prestigious sites in all of the Middle Mosel.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Crawl, with Christian Schiller

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

The Selbach-Oster’s heritage in the area dates to the 1660’s: Selbach’s ancestors shipped their estate wines along the Mosel in their steamship, the wine carried in oak barrels made by cooper Matthias Oster, the great-grandfather on the paternal side of the family. Thus, the winery developed as both a top estate producing some of the region’s best wine, and also as a négociant and brokerage firm, consolidating the production of smaller growers. Johannes has slowly been reviving the use of traditional oak Fuder in his cellar, bringing in new large casks every few years. Vinification is carried out in a combination of Fuder and stainless steel, and predominantly with wild yeasts.

Seminar: What is a Kabinett? - with Karthäuserhof, Egon Müller, Selbach-Oster. Moderators: John Gilman and Stephen Bitterolf

Riesling Crawl: Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof) - Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway

Van Volxem

Attending winemaker: Roman Niewodniczanski
Country, region: Germany, Mosel (Saar)

Charismatic Roman Niewodniczanski first purchased the celebrated Van Volxem estate in 1999, with an eye toward returning to the era at the turn of the 20h century when German Riesling was valued higher than even the most prized Bordeaux and Burgundy. He’s connected himself directly with that time by studying the period in-depth and purchasing plots in the Saar’s most exceptional sites, all of which were then considered the highest caliber. Roman has a stunning collection of old vines, many still on their own rootstock and some over 100 years old. From these he produces fantastically-textured, subtle wines of terroir, all finishing dry or off-dry as was once typical in the Saar.

Picture: Riesling Seminar

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

Today Van Volxem is comprised of 63 hectares, including choice parcels in the Kanzemer Altenberg, Gottesfuß, Wiltinger Kupp, and the Scharzhofberg. The wines are moderate in alcohol, rich in acidity and structurally dense and complex. Committed to making natural wine in sense of traditional German Naturwein, – i.e., Roman eschews over-manipulation, preferring to let his historic terroirs speak for themselves. These are heady, ethereal wines of contemplation and are among the most unique on the Saar.

Seminar: Saar Diversity - with Hofgut Falkenstein, Van Volxem, Zilliken. Moderator: David Schildknecht
Seminar: Riesling Reborn – with Immich-Betterieberg, with Van Volxem, Von Winning. Moderator: David
Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Roman Niewodniczanski - Back Label Wine Merchants, 111 West 20th Street

Von Winning

Attending Winemaker: Andreas Hütwohl
Country, region: Germany, Pfalz

Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in the Grand Cru sites of Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg. Andreas Huetwöhl and Stefan Attman work in tandem to craft the wines of the estate – every decision is informed by passion for the Pfalz terroir and experiences at estates in the Côte d’Or and abroad. For example, the estate’s newer vines are planted at a very high vine density – 9,500 vines per hectare, as opposed to the more typical less than 5,000. This creates competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots to grow deep, and naturally reducing yields. The vineyards are planted to a single-cane trellising system, prevalent in Burgundy, and Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500-liter French barrels. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.

Picture: Rieslingfeier Seminar

The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, a natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity-flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.

Seminar: Riesling Reborn – with Immich-Betterieberg, with Van Volxem, Von Winning. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Andreas Hütwohl (Von Winning) and Gernot Kollmann (Immich-Batterieberg) - Crush Wines & Spirits, 153 East 57th Street

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken

Attending winemaker: Hanno Zilliken
Country, region: Germany, Mosel (Saar)

Hanno Zilliken is a living legend in the Mosel. Taking over the estate with the baroque, botrytis-inflected 1976 vintage, the wines of Zilliken have epitomized the lightness and elegance of Saar Riesling for well over 30 years. The 1983s are masterpieces of this complex vintage, the 1990s and 1997s remain young and fresh. There are many who feel the 2005 vintage marked Hanno’s crowning achievement; this is a legendary collection. Yet, the best of Zilliken may still be to come; Hanno’s daughter, Dorothee, has been working with her father since 2007 and is in a great position to continue the estate.

Picture: Rieslingfeier Seminar

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Crawl

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

Geltz Zilliken has exceptional holdings in the Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein and one of the most impressive, deepest and coldest cellars in the Mosel. Few have descended into this multi-level cellar and forgotten the experience. Zilliken is one of the few German winemakers to exclusively use old wooden Fuder in the fermentation and elevage of the wines – the estate has about 80 Fuder in the vaulted cellar. Most famous for their sweet dessert wines, this is an estate that has in recent years begun to show a keen sense of balance with their dry Rieslings.

Seminar: Saar Diversity - with Hofgut Falkenstein, Van Volxem, Zilliken. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Riesling Crawl: Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken - Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street

Stephen Bitterolf

Rieslingfeier was founded in 2012 by Stephen Bitterolf, a passionate advocate for Germany's culture of winemaking. He was the Wine Director at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York where he helped develop one of the largest German wine programs in the country before founding his own import company, vom Boden.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf, Johannes Leitz, Eva Fricke

Picture: Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), David Weitzenhoffer (Importer) and Stephen Bitterolf

Joining

Annette Schiller, who organizes wines tours (ombiasyPR and WineTours), and Christian Schiller, who blogs on schiller-wine, joined the 2015 celebration of German Riesling. We were happy to meet the participating German elite winemakers. Many of them we know personally. Some of them we call our friends.

The visit of Weingut Selbach-Oster was one of the highlights of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014). The 3 forthcoming Germany Wine Tours in 2015 include tastings with Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Klaus Peter and Julia Keller, Weingut Keller and Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in addition to many other elite wine producers, including some not yet well known outside of Germany.

See:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Johannes Leitz and his Wife at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Picture: Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014 at Weingut Selbach-Oster with Johannes Selbach

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, with Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in Frankfurt, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim– Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany  

Picture: Beate Klingenmeier Welcomes the Group at Weingut Dr. Heger

The visit of Weingut Dr. Heger comprised a cellar tour and a tasting of the outstanding Weingut Dr. Heger wines in the modern tasting room of Weingut Dr. Heger, led by We were received by the charming and passionate Beate Klingenmeier, who is an important personality in Germany’s wine industry: She founded Vinissima, an association of professional women of the German’s wine industry.

The Dr. Heger estate lies in the Kaiserstuhl (literally: emperor’s chair), a small volcanic group of hills in the Upper Rhine Valley in southwest Germany, northwest of Freiburg. Joachim Heger’s hometown of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. So, while some fine Riesling and Silvaner gets made here, it is really Pinot country.

Picture: Weingut Dr. Heger

The Dr. Heger estate is a member of the Association of German Predicate Wine Estates (Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter or VDP). Joachim Heger of Weingut Dr. Heger is the winemaker of the year - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013.

History

Weingut Dr. Heger was established in 1935 by the grandfather of Joachim Heger, the rural doctor, Dr. Max Heger. His passion for wine and everything to do with wine was kindled by his patients, who were primarily wine growers, as well as his knowledge that the best conditions for wine growing were on the Kaiserstuhl in the south-western tip of Germany. Because of this, he bought prime areas of the well known sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg.

From 1949 to the end of the 1980s, Dr. Heger‘s son Wolfgang Heger ran the estate. Joachim Heger took over responsibility for winemaking in 1981, and, together with his wife Silvia, for the winery in 1992.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim Heger

Vineyards

The main vineyards are: Freiburger Schlossberg (lively, nervy penetrating wines), Achkarrer Schlossberg (more forward, showy with lots of body and soil character), and Ihringer Winklerberg (finer, more elegant requiring more time).

The 21 hectares of vineyards are predominantly planted with Pinots Gris, Blanc and Noir, along with some Riesling and Silvaner, as well as the aromatic varieties Muscat, Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer, which all thrive wonderfully here. In a move toward organic winemaking, Weingut Dr. Heger has retained Claude Bourguignon, the famed French agronomist, as a consultant.

Cellar

In the cellar, Joachim Heger maintains the old tradition of using big wooden barrels to vinify the wines of the Pinot family, whilst using stainless steel for Riesling. 95% of wines are fermented dry.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Dr. Heger

Grape Varieties

Riesling (20%) - Joachim Heger: Our single vineyard sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg provide optimum conditions for the king of white wines. The weathered volcanic bedrock gives Riesling the mineral compounds it needs to be able to produce its fruity and richly aromatic bouquet and on the palate this Riesling shows typical varietal flavors. In this southerly wine producing region of Baden acidity is generally less pronounced than in the more northerly Riesling regions and this makes the wines fuller in body and more opulent.

Grauburgunder (10%) – Jochaim Heger: The Pinot Gris wines from Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg are characterised by a certain minerality, which gives elegance and finesse, despite the wines’ full body. Thanks to the richness of extract, typical of this grape variety, it is also possible to ferment and mature the wines in barriques as well as large oak casks.

Weissburgunder (10%) – Joachim Heger: The Pinot Blanc’s rich array of fine, fruity aromas come wonderfully to the fore when grown on the soils of the Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg. The bouquet suggests mirabelle plums and green apples and on the palate these continue, together with nuances of yellow pear. If the grapes are harvested at Spätlese oechsle levels, then they are also suitable for fermenting and maturing in barriques or large oak casks.

Silvaner (15%) – Joachim Heger: Ihringen is famous for its long tradition of producing Silvaner and, as a single location, it still has the largest vineyard area planted to Silvaner in Germany. In 1900 the proportion of this ancient variety here was around 70%. The elegantly fruity notes, delicate aromas of pear and gentle acidity are a perfect representation of the terroir of the Ihringen volcanic soils.

Spaetburgunder (20%) – Joachim Heger: The pale-fleshed variety Pinot Noir ripens to optimum maturity in the very warm sites of Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg, thereby giving this typical ruby red color. The color must be obtained from the grape skins and this occurs during the classic fermentation on the skins, a method which not only takes a lot of time, but which is also a lot of work. The red wines are rich with concentrated extract, intensified by maturation in barriques. These wines are also characterized by their long ageing potential.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger

Weinhaus Heger and Weingut Fischer

In 1986, Joachim Heger started Weinhaus Heger. The vines are in the Thuniberg area and are under long-term lease contracts to Joachim Heger and are maintained by Weinhaus Heger. The wines are vinified in the cellar of Weingut Dr. Heger. The wines always offer great value.

In addition to the original Dr. Heger wine estate and Weinhaus Heger, Joachim and Silvia Heger’s sphere of influence also includes Weingut Fischer in Nimburg-Bottingen since 1997. Here, Joachim Heger produces fine wines with typical Baden opulence.

The Wines we Tasted


2013 Heger Weissburgunder oktav Kabinett trocken – made by Heger, i.e. with purchased grapes.

2013 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Weissburgunder VDP.Erste Lage trocken – fermented and aged in large barrel, 0.1 gr RS.

2012 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Gras im Ofen Grauburgunder VDP.Grosse Lage GG – Gras im Ofen is a Gewann, a new concept being introduced in Germany right now, Gewann is like a lieu-dit in Bourgogne, i.e. a small geographical area bearing a traditional name.

2012 Dr. Heger Achkarrer Schlossberg Grauburgunder VDP.Grosse Lage GG Barrique trocken

2011 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Mimus Spätburgunder Barrique trocken – 15 months in new barrique, Wolfgang Heger, Joachim Heger’s father, was called Mimus as a child, when Jochim Heger took over the estate, he dedicated this wine to his father, so that his memory lives on. The 2011 Mimus was a very dense wine, with aromas of red fruit and spices. Its finish was long and very pleasant with some peppermint notes.

2011 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder VDP.Grosse Lage Barrique trocken
A keeper for many years to come.


2013 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Muskateller VDP.Erste Lage mild

2008 Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Ruländer Beerenauslese edesüss

New US Importer: Schatzi Wines

In the US, Weingut Dr. Heger is available through Schatzi-Wines, a new wine importer, led by the
former Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik National Sales Director Kevin Pike and German star winemaker Johannes Leitz.

The German wine market in the US was shaken a bit when Kevin Pike, who had been managing the Terry Theise selection at Skurnik Wines for more than 10 years, left Skurnik to create his own import company, Schatzi Wines. With him left Johannes Leitz, who had one of the largest, if not the larget account in the Terry Theise German wine portfolio.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with US Importer Kevin Pike, Schatzi Wines

Kevin Pike: After 13 years of running a large national wine sales division, I was inspired to work with a more direct and focused import model. In partnership with my closest friend, Johannes Leitz, I started Schatzi Wines in 2014—a company that reflects our collective business ideals. Schatzi is dedicated to working alongside growers to bring great wines to the market. Currently, the portfolio consists of Leitz (Rheingau), Dreissigacker (Rheinhessen), Dr. Heger (Baden) and R. Pouillon (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ).

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: Collette Faller and Christian G.E. Schiller at Domaine Weinbach in December 2010

Colette Faller of Domaine Weinbach passed away at age 87 in February 2015. This comes less than a year after in May 2014, her daughter Laurence died from a tragic heart attack.

Colette Faller took over the domaine in 1979 after the death of her husband Théo. For the last 2 decades, she worked closely with her daughters Laurence and Catherine Faller, in charge respectively of winemaking and sales.

Catherine Faller, married to a dentist, will now run Domaine Weinbach with her sons Théo and Eddy. Ghislain Berthiot, who worked with Laurence for many years, will continue to be in charge of winemaking.

I visited Domaine Weinbach a few years ago with my wife Annette Schiller. We spent a couple of hours with Collete Faller tasting wines with her in the dining room of her charming, antiques-filled country home, where family mementos and photographs of her late husband stood on an old china cabinet. You could feel through the pictures and the furniture the history of the place. She was a fascinating woman. She also showed us around the winery. Catharine dropped by several times.

Initially, Collete Faller was wearing regular clothes, but when I talked about taking pictures, she disappeared and came back dressed stylishly.

Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Colette Faller, "a robust, vivacious woman of extraordinary charm and vision, has turned out a dazzling succession of profound Rieslings, Gewurtztraminers, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blancs and dry Muscats from her surrounding vineyards."

Much of the credit of course has to go to her daughters Catharine and Laurence Faller. The latter studied chemical engineering, then took enology courses in Toulouse and Beaune. She even did a stint in California in 1989. In 1993, she returned to Domaine Weinbach and began assuming some of the winemaking duties. By 1996, she was making many of the winemaking decisions, and in 1998 she was given free rein as winemaker.

Domaine Weinbach

Domaine Weinbach is located just outside the castle-crowned town of Kaysersberg, the birthplace of 1952 Nobel Peace Prize winner Albert Schweitzer.

Kaysersberg with its ancient buildings, Germanic half-timbered gingerbread houses and cobblestoned streets, is a magical place surrounded by some of Alsace's finest vineyards. Among them are Weinbach's Monopole Vineyard Clos des Capucins and the Grand Crus Schlossberg and Furstenstum, which have major holdings owned or controlled by the Fallers.

Pictures: Domaine Weinbach

The Domaine Weinbach is a former monastery built in 1612 by capucines monks, who made wine already on the Clos. During the French Revolution, the monastery was seized and sold as a national property. In 1898, it was acquired by the Faller brothers. The Faller brothers left it to their son and nephew Théo. He, a prominent figure in Alsace winegrowing, was devoted to Domaine Weinbach all his life and developed, expanded and enhanced it. Since his death in 1979, his wife Colette Faller and their two daughters Catherine and Laurence have carried on Théo's passion for the great wines of Alsace and his unrelenting commitment to delivering excellence.

Domaine Weinbach omprises 27 hectares. Although all the bottles of Domaine Weinbach bear the name of the Clos des Capucins, only a small number originate from the Clos itself. The rest come from the Faller's other holdings, including in their Grand Cru sites. Domaine Weinbach wines also come from vineyards they have leased and cultivate themselves.

Pictures: Collette Faller and Christian G.E. Schiller at Domaine Weinbach in December 2010

Schlossberg is probably the most significant site, being the first vineyard in Alsace to have Grand Cru status approved in 1975. Furstentum is a south-southeast facing Grand Cru site, nestled in the Kaysersberg Valley to the northeast of Schlossberg. The vines in Grand Cru Mambourg, like Furstentum, are a recent purchase for the Faller Family. The nearby Altenbourg lieu-dit provides Pinot Gris as well as Gewurztraminer.

Winemaking Philosophy

Laurence Faller believed in minimal intervention in the winemaking process. The grapes are harvested by hand and whole-cluster pressed in horizontal pneumatic presses. The wines are fermented under the action of the indigenous yeast and aged in the same old upright oval casks that range in size from 3,000- to 6,000-liter capacity, then usually bottled after about seven months. The wines usually do not undergo malolactic fermentation.

Picture: In the Cellar of Domaine Weinberg with Colette Faller

The Domaine Weinbach Wine Portfolio

Riesling

The Riesling range starts with the Riesling Cuvée Théo, sourced from the Clos des Capucins, where Theo rests. The Riesling (and the Gewurtztraminer) that grow there bear his name.

The Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg originates from the upper slopes of the Grand Cru Schlossberg vineyard. There are three further special cuvées from the Grand Cru Schlossberg: (1) Riesling Cuvée Ste Catherine, from the lower slopes of Schlossberg; the grapes are picked late (some time around the 25th of November, day of Sainte Catherine) so that they can enjoy the late autumn sun, (2) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine which comes from old vines on the mid-slope in Schlossberg, and (3) Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine L’Inedit. "L'Inédit means the original one and is from the most beautiful plots. It is only produced when Riesling reaches an exceptional maturity” told us Colette Faller.


The Domaine Weinbachs Riesling wines have a fine and delicate fruitiness; they are racy, nervy, dry but at the same time they are mature and long on the palate. “Riesling holds a special place in our vineyards and in our hearts” said Colette Faller.

Tokay Pinot Gris

The Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Ste Catherine is sourced from old vines in the Clos des Capucins.

The other Pinot Gris cuvées come from lieu-dit Altenbourg. The Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Laurence is sourced from vines in the lower part of the Altenbourg vineyard, whereas the Tokay Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence comes from the main part of the Altenbourg plot.

Gewürztraminer

As the Riesling, the Gewurztraminer Cuvée Théo originates from the Clos des Capucins. The remaining Gewuerztraminer cuvées are predominantly from Altenbourg again. The Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence comes from the foot of the lieu-dit, and the Gewurztraminer Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence comes from the main part of the Altenbourg plot.

In addition, there is also the Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum Cuvée Laurence which comes from Grand Cru Furstentum.

Colette Faller said “with wonderful aromas of rose, gilly-flower, jasmine, spices, crystallized citrus fruit… with velvety bodies, they are sumptuous as an aperitif, with exotic food, smoked salmon or even with cheese, especially with French cheeses such as Munster or Roquefort.”

Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Noir

There is a Sylvaner Réserve from the Clos des Capucins. “The Sylvaner is good with cooked pork meats, oysters, fish. It is also a thirst-quenching wine“ said Colette Faller.

The Pinot Réserve is a blend of fruit from the Clos des Capucins and from vines at the foot of the Altenbourg lieu-dit.

The Muscat Réserve is a blend from the Clos des Capucins and the marly limestone soil at the foot of the Altembourg. “Dry, with an incomparable fruitiness, it really gives the impression of biting a raisin. It can be a wonderful aperitif and goes really well with asparagus and lightly spiced dishes” said Colette Faller.

The Pinot Noir Réserve is sourced from the Clos des Capucins and Schlossberg.

Vendanges Tardives, Sélection de Grains Nobles and Quintessences de Grains Nobles

There are also Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles cuvees. However, many regard the greatest wines to be the Quintessences de Grains Nobles. “They are exceptional wines, remarkable because of their great aromatical complexity, of their rare concentration and their perfect balance” said Colette Faller.

The Quintessences de Grains Nobles are extremely rare nectars, produced in tiny quantities in only a few vintages. The word Quintessence was invented in Domaine Weinbach; it was used the first time to describe a sumptuous cuvée of the 1983 vintage.

Catherine Faller

The fate of Domaine Weinbach is now in the hands of Catherine Faller and her two sons. All the best Catharine.

Picture: Winzerhof Töhrle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen

For many years, Rheinhessen was a wine region that was not in the front row when it came to premium wines in Germany. And Germany was not in the front row when it came to red premium wines in the world. Both has changed dramatically in recent years.

As to Rheinhessen, the undisputed leaders of that development are Klaus Peter Keller and Philip Wittmann. Close behind the leading duo is a group of mostly young and ambitious winemakers who also produce outstanding wines. Two of them are the Thörle brothers Johannes and Christoph at the family-owned Weingut Thörle in the town of Saulheim, assisted by their parents Rudolf and Ute.

As to red wine, 30 years ago, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, we are well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. One of the wineries that now produces award winning red wines in Germany is Weingut Thörle.

See:
The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen

The tasting at Weingut Thörle was one of the highlights of the German-North Wine Tour by ombiasy 2014. The tasting was led by Ute Thörle

Weingut Thörle

Weingut Thörle is a family owned and operated winery in Rheinhessen in the town of Saulheim, with Johannes Thörle in the driver seat, when it comes to wine making, and brother Christoph leading on the marketing and sale side. Parents Rudolf and Ute continue to be involved, father Rudolph in the wine cellar and mother Ute in sales and marketing. The family owns 15 hectares in the Hölle, Schlossberg and Probstey vineyards in the Saulheim wine region.

Pictures: Tasting with Ute Thörle

A few years ago I wrote a posting about Weingut Thörle under the title: "The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen." Indeed, Weingut Thöerle is a rapidly rising wine producer. Take, as an example, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland, Germany’s leading wine guide. In the 2011 guide, they were awarded the third grape; in the year before, they had received the second grape. 4 years earlier they had not even been mentioned in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. In an extremely short period of time, Weingut Thoerle went from nowhere to 3 grapes.

Tim Atkin organized a Pinot Noir “Germany Versus Rest of World” Tasting in London in October 2011, at which the German wines performed extremely well: 7 of the top 13 wines of the 40 Pinot Noirs from around the world were German Spaetburgunder wines. This tasting has a good chance of becoming a miles post in the ongoing process of international recognition of Germany as a producer of premium red wines. The best ranked German Pinot Noir was the 2008 Weingut Thörle Spätburgunder Hölle; it was ranked #3 overall and #1 of the German Pinot Noirs.

Picture: Quick Cellar Tour with Ute Thörle

This time, we did not visit the impressive wine cellar. “We have old “Stückfaesser” and “Halbstückfässer” as well as 90 barrique barrels” said Ute Thörle. Apart from the Gutsweine, all Weingut Thoerle wines are spontaneously fermented. Also, we did not have a chance to take a look at the vineyards. “Most people think that the vineyards of Saulheim are flat and dull. This is wrong. Between our vineyards there is a difference of up to 100 meters and we also have different soil types” said Ute Thörle.

What we Tasted


2011 Blanc et Noir Sekt brut Methode chanpenoise


2013 Riesling Gutswein trocken
2013 Saulheimer Riesling Kalkstein trocken
2013 Hölle Riesling trocken
2013 Saulheimer Silvaner Kalkstein trocken
2013 Probstey Silvaner trocken

2012 Saulheimer Frühburgunder trocken
2012 Saulheimer Spätburgunder trocken
2012 Hölle Spätburgunder trocken

The last wines was the wine (vintage 2008) that won at the Tim Atkins tasting: “I wanted to make a Pinot Noir that expresses the climating conditions of Germany – not a thick, juicy wine, but an elegant, Burgundian cool climate Pinot Noir” commented Johannes at a previous visit. “The grapes come from the Hoelle vineyard parcel we bought a few years ago. The vineyard was planted 35 years ago. The grapes were harvested a sugar content of 95 to 98 Oechsle. We tried to let the grapes not become overly ripe.” Christoph added.

Weingut Thoerle Wines in the US

Thoerle wines are imported into the US by Ingenium Wines: “Ingenium Wines is a national importer based in Huntsville, AL. We focus on small production European wineries that overdeliver on value at very reasonable price points. Every wine in our portfolio is important to us and we take great pride in representing these wines.”

Here are the wines that are currently on offer in the US.

2011 Pinot Gris

Vinification: After very a very selective harvest the grapes were lightly squeezed and sat in the cellar for 20 hours in its juice. 92% were raised in stainless steel tanks and 8% in barrique. The juice fermented for 6 weeks with natural yeast. After 4 months of sur lies the wine was bottled.

Tasting notes: On the nose the wine reveals yellow and exotic fruits. The wine is creamy with fantastic minerality. It has a very long finish.

2011 Riesling

Vinification: After very a very selective harvest the grapes were lightly squeezed and sat in the cellar for 16 hours in its juice. The juice fermented for 6 weeks with natural yeast. After 4 months of sur lies the wine was bottled.

Tasting notes: Herbal on the nose with aromas of peach, apples and citrus. The wine has great almost salty minerality. A very serious, dry Riesling.

2011 Pinot Blanc

Vinfication: After very a very selective harvest the grapes were lightly squeezed and sat in the cellar for 18 hours in its juice. 94% were raised in stainless steel tanks and 6% in barrique. The juice fermented for 6 weeks with natural yeast. After 4 months of sur lies the wine was bottled.

Tasting notes: On the nose yellow fruits, citrus and apples. Great acidity with a creamy touch.

Pictures: Johannes Thoerle, Christian G.E. Schiller, Christoph Thoerle and Annette Schiller, at a previous event

2011 Riesling Limestone

Vinification: After sorting the grapes several times the grapes were lightly squeezed and sat in the cellar for 24 hours in its juice. 75% were raised in stainless steel tanks and 25% in barrique. The juice fermented for 6 weeks with natural yeast. After 6 months of sur lies the wine was bottled.

Tasting note: On the nose the wine reveals ripe apricots and peaches. The wine is herby and creamy with beautiful minerality and a long finish.

Will Lyons, Wall Street Journal, included this wine in his recent selection of "three elegant wines" -  "for everyday drinking": "When it's at its best, German Riesling can compete with any wine in the world. This is an exceptional example, with a floral-, perhaps apricot, flavoured nose. Sharp and dry, with a long, saline crispiness."

Bye-bye

Thanks Ute Thörle for a wonderful tasting.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Weingut Thörle)

The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Picture: Ben Gilberti, Calvert and Woodley , Panos Kakaviatos, Wine Chronicles, and Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, at the Vintage 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Wines Tastingat Ripple in Washington DC

When our friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. I have already reported about an impressive vertical tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron wines with Jean-Rene Matignon at trendy Restaurant Ripple - Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, provided the tasting notes: Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron with Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos

This posting is about a tasting of 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils wines with fellow wine lovers, merchants and bloggers, again at Restaurant Ripple. And as in the case of the Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Annette Schiller provided the tasting notes, ahead of her first wine tour by ombiasy to the Bourgogne later this year. In addition to the ten 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils wines, provided by Bouchard Père et Fils US Importer Henriot, participants brought older vintages of Bouchard Père et Fils wines and some Champagnes to start with. Annette’s tasting notes comprise the older vintages and the bubblies as well.

Pictures: Ripple

Let me quote Panos Kakaviatos (Panos already reported on the event on his web site - 2012: Bouchard kicks ass. Older vintages, too.): This year, on 14 January, our group included a mix of trade representatives – including sommeliers and wine merchants David and Maria Denton, wine tour organizer Annette Schiller, Ben Giliberti of Calvert Woodley and Tim O’Rourke of Weygandt; wine bloggers like Christian Schiller and active wine forum writers such as Howard Cooper, who has been my Burgundy guru for several years now, and Kevin Shin, who is a member of the Grand Jury Europeen. And some of Washington D.C.’s most avid (and enthusiastic) wine buyers including Chris Bublitz, who shares my passion in particular for Bordeaux, and Ken Barr among others.

Bouchard Père et Fils

Bouchard Père et Fils is a large wine grower and négociant, based in Beaune, in the Côte de Beaune. Bouchard Père et Fils was established as a cloth merchant by Michel Bouchard in Volnay in 1731.

Starting in 1746, his son Joseph Bouchard began selling wines and acquiring vineyards. Over several generations, Bouchard Père et Fils has assembled one of the finest portfolios in Bourgogne of 130 hectares of vineyard in the heart of the Côte d’Or – 12 of them classified as Grand Cru and 74 as Premier Cru, including: Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Clos Vougeot, Chambertin, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus, Volnay Caillerets, Meursault Perrières. Particularly noteworthy are high proportions of the two Grands Crus Le Montrachet (1.1 ha) and Chevalier-Montrachet (2.3 ha). Bouchard Père et Fils is since 1820 installed at Château de Beaune in the heart of Beaune (Monument Historique), with a vast cellar. In 1995, the Bouchard family sold Bouchard Père et Fils to Joseph Henriot in the Champagne.

Pictures: The Tasting

Henriot

The Henriot Family has been in Champagne since the 16th Century. In 1808, Apolline Henriot, one of the many famous widows of the Champagne region, decided to sell their wines under the Champagne Henriot label, hitherto only reserved for family and friends. Today, Henriot Champagne can be found around the world.

When Etienne Henriot died in 1957, his son, Joseph Henriot, also a trained agronomist, gradually took over the reins of the family company from 1962. Joseph Henriot, a successful businessman, also became President of Charles Heidsieck, then Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin. In 1995, Joseph Henriot bought Bouchard Père et Fils.

Since 1999, Stanislas Henriot, son of Joseph Henriot, gradually took over the management of the House and was President from 2004 to 2010. He was responsible for turning Henriot Champagne from a relatively unknown Champagne House outside of France to a global player. Notably, he set up a subsidiary in the US that imports and sells, inter alia, Henriot Champagne and Bouchard Père et Fils wines.

The Tasting

The tasting notes were provided by Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Jean-Nicolas Méo, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, see: Tasting the Wines of Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne, with Owner Jean-Nicolas Méo, France

Champagnes

For warming up, some Champagnes, provided by Tim O’Rourke, Weygandt Wines.

NV J.L. Vergnon Champagne Rosémotion Brut de Brut, Grand Cru, Champagne, France

This rosé champagne started off with an intense bouquet of almonds, marzipan. On the palate the nutty, creamy impression stayed, but the fine bubbles gave it elegance and finesse. This grower Champagne sells for 60 $.

2008 J.L. Vergnon Champagne Confidence Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, Champagne, France

This had much less intensity on the nose but had a gorgeous, crisp, apple flavor on the palate. The high acidity was counterbalanced with a hint of sweetness and the Champagne just had lots of structure. This sells for 100 $.

2008 Nicolas Maillart Champagne Blanc de Noirs, Les Francs de Pied, Extra Brut, 1er Cru, Champagne, France

The nose was funky, musky. Unfortunately this particular bottle was a bit off. The Champagne was better on the palate. Bone dry, high acidity with nice red fruit flavors. 139 $ in the stores.


Bouchard Père & Fils Tasting: Vintage 2012

The 2012 Burgundy Vintage

2012 was a very strange year in Burgundy. The blossom season and the months up to end of June were cold, wet, and miserable.

Parts of Burgundy were affected by extensive damage from hail, but the weather turned beautiful in July and stayed warm, sunny, and dry until harvest. I quote Clive Coates for the overall assessment: “In the end – quality-wise- 2012 has turned out, not merely “all right”, but really very good indeed, if not perhaps even very fine. I have already heard the wines referred to as “classic”. There are some who regard the potential of 2012 reds as superior to anything recent, and that includes 2010, 2009, 2005 and other years.”


2012 Bouchard Père & Fils Whites

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune Clos Saint-Landry (Monopole), 1er cru, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France


Ripe pear, vanilla, on the nose. On the palate, a distinctive butterscotch flavor with a nice sweetness / acidity balance gravitating more to the sweet side. This is a medium-bodied wine with good concentration. For my personal preference it lacked a bit of tension.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Meursault, Les Clous, Village, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France


Intense Chardonnay bouquet on the nose, lots of fruit and also floral notes made the wine very appealing. On the palate high acidity paired with floral flavors gave it tension, and a lively expression. This medium- to full-bodied wine also had a nice medium length finish.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Meursault, Genevrières, 1er cru, Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France


A gorgeous wine! Great characteristic fruity, floral Chardonnay bouquet with just a hint of oak. A full-bodied wine with a perfect acidity level. Some great spicy aromas paired with floral flavors and ripe fruit aromas gave it tension and liveliness. A voluptuous wine with a long lasting finish.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils Reds

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Gevrey-Chambertin, Village, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy. France


This bottle had been opened 10 hours before the tasting, and by the time of tasting the nose was expressive with ripe, dark berry and cherry fruit notes, minerals, and earthiness. On the palate, a very pleasant velvety mouthfeel with the tannins and the sweetness of very ripe berry aromas beautifully integrated. A really great, well-balanced wine with a lot of finesse.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Aloxe-Corton, Village, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France


On the nose, nice red fruit flavors, not as ripe and pronounced as the previous bottle. A good structure with pronounced tannins, which gave the wine a bit of a rustic impression, which lingered on in the finish. In general this wine was a step down from the Gevrey-Chambertin.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Marconnets, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France


A bit restrained on the nose, but lovely dark fruit aromas with some earthy, mushroomy notes and a hint of oak. This is a full-bodied wine with a good tannin structure, nice fruit flavors on the palate and a good, memorable finish.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Clos de la Mousse (“lieu dit”, Monopole), Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France


A step up from the Marconnets. Intense red fruit flavors on the nose. An elegant wine with a velvety mouthfeel and lots of power, but at the same time expressing harmony between pronounced tannins, acidity, and delicious fruit aromas.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France


Superb ripe, dark berry fruit, spices, oak on the nose. Almost, but really only almost! jammy like a New World wine. A very intense, rich, complex wine but with a surprising delicacy and impressive, perfect balance between tannins, fruit, acidity, power, only achieved in the Old World. A voluptuous, delicious wine already very good to drink now.

2012 Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay, 1er cru, Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France


Exquisite berry and cherry fruit and spice aromas on the nose. On the palate this wine comes across as much more restraint than the previous one. It also has a perfect harmony between structure and elegance but is more austere and less playful than the “Jésus”. An equally delicious wine but of very different character.

Older Vintages Bouchard Père & Fils

2009 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Beaune du Château, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France

Very, almost overripe, ripe fruit, predominantly cherry flavor on the nose, typical 2009, the hot vintage smell! On the palate the ripeness flavor lingers on. The tannins were not very pronounced, but the wine had an overall good structure. It remained somewhat closed, and would have benefited from opening the bottle much earlier. But overall I enjoyed the wine, since I like mature wines in general.

2005 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Beaune du Château, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France

This wine was gorgeous! The nose, the palate, a terrific wine with still a lot of aging potential. Gorgeous fruit, cherry aromas, caramel, wet leaves on the nose, beautifully integrated tannins, perfect acidity, and delicious fruit flavors on the palate, a sound structure, and a memorable, medium length finish.

2006 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France

Unfortunately this bottle was flawed. Very funky smell, strange taste, just off.

2005 Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune, 1er cru, Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France

Excellent wine! Ripe cherry fruit on the nose, some caramel, some pine. Fantastic texture. Surprisingly youthful on the palate with great layers of fruit, good tannins, and pronounced acidity. This is a rich, beautiful wine, and who would have thought in a blind tasting that this was 10 years old! In comparison with the already very open 2012 we had earlier, this wine was still somewhat closed and not as accessible than the 2012.

2002 Bouchard Père & Fils, Volnay, 1er cru, Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. France

An excellent wine too! A bit lighter than the previous one with a slightly leaner body. Gorgeous cherry fruit and hints of floral notes on the nose. Very young feel -still, with strong tannins and acidity on the palate, yet with a pronounced ripeness which gives this wine tension.

2006 Bouchard Père & Fils, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France

This wine was in a different league than all the others! A bewitching nose of red fruits, floral aromas, caramel, spices. A robust intense palate, yet very polished with strong acidity, tannins, minerality, fruit - juicy. A big wine, very complex , but smooth and elegant with a never ending finish.

Perfect finish for this great evening!

Thanks

Thanks Panos Kakaviatos and Henriot for a wonderful tasting.


schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Tasting the Wines of Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne, with Owner Jean-Nicolas Méo, France

Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron with Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

A 16-Vintage Château Calon Ségur Vertical Tasting in Washington DC, with Wine Writer Panos Kakaviatos and Laurent Dufau, Managing Director, USA/Bordeaux

A Vertical Blind Tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton with Lilian Barton-Sartorius in Washington DC, USA

A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos  

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, Francesco Tettamanti, Director of Ticinowine, Carla Maset from Italy (who took nice pictures some of which I am using in this posting) and Matthias Schmidt, our Guide

As part of the 2014 Digitul Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland, I explored the wines of Ticino during a post-conference press trip. This posting – Lunch at Montalbano Restaurant in Stabio, Ticino, Switzerland - is the tenth and last one in a series of postings (see below) emanating from my visit of Ticino.

See also:
Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland
Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Brivio Vini SA and Gialdi Vini SA in Mendrisio, Ticono, with Guido Brivio, Switzerland
Polenta and Ticino Wine at Grotto Bundi in Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting Cantina Kopp von der Crone Visini and Tasting with Barbara von der Crone and Paolo Visini in Barbengo, Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting (and Tasting the Wines of) Tamborini SA and Lunch with Valentina Tamborini, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland
Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland
Visit of (and Wine Tasting at) Vinattieri Ticinesi, Ticino, Switzerland
Agriloro SA in Ticino, Switzerland: Dinner with Owner Meinrad Perler and Winery Tour
Lunch at Ristorante Montalbano in Stabio, Switzerland

Wine Producer Switzerland

Switzerland is a small wine producer with about 15 000 hectares of vineyards only. This is about 15 percent of Germany’s total winegrowing area and a bit more than 1 percent of that of Spain. Only less than 2% of the wine is exported, mainly to Germany.

Switzerland's particular situation - in between four wine-producing nations (France, Italy, Germany and Austria) and itself divided into four different areas with different languages and traditions - has resulted in an extreme diversity of its wines.

Picture: Map of Switzerland

Switzerland has an extensive range of grape varieties. Among the white grapes, the Chasselas is the most widespread. Müller-Thurgau, cultivated above all in the German speaking part of Switzerland, and Sylvaner are also popular. The main red grape varieties are Pinot Noir, which can be found in all the wine-producing regions of Switzerland, and Gamay, which predominates in the Valais; Merlot has found a second home in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland, the Ticino.

Ticino

Ticino is a quite distinct winemaking zone in Switzerland, totaling 1000 hectares. The canton Ticino (and the wine region Tecino) is divided into two regions by the dividing line of the Monte Ceneri Pass: Sopraceneri in the north and Sottoceneri in the south. The Sopraceneri soils are rather stony with a full complement of silt and sand, while the Sottoceneri soils are limestone and deep, rich clays. Ticino's climate is Mediterranean.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Lugano

There are a total of about 3600 grape growers in Ticino and 200 or so winemakers, including a co-operative. The 200 or so winemakers range from pure negociant-type producer (who buy all the grapes the use for their wine) to winemakers that only use their own grapes for making wine. Vineyards are generally small, steep plots of between 3 ha and 6 ha and yields are at 70 hl/ha. 15 winemakers account for about 80% of the total production. The co-op produces 1 million bottles annually.

Merlot is the dominant grape variety. The Ticino Merlot ranges from easy drinking, including white, Merlots to ultra-premium Merlots that can compete with the best in the world (including Bordeaux) and cost US$50 to US$150 per bottle.

Montalbano Restaurant in Stabio

Les ambassadeurs.ch: If you wish to discover the best of Ticino cuisine, we recommend a dinner at the Montalbano restaurant in Stabio. The establishment is located in an 18th century colonial style mansion set in a vineyard estate 20 kilometres south of Lugano. Its owner, Claudio Croci Torti, loves to spoil his guests with seasonal cuisine and delicious regional specialities: Ticino black truffles, smoked fish,asparagus, aromatic herbs, authentic products and fine wines. If you appreciate the charm of local traditions, you will certainly not regret your visit to the “Montalbano”.

Pictures: At Montalbano Restaurant in Stabio

Reception

Pictures: Reception

The Wines

Here are the wines we had for lunch.


The Lunch


Guancialetto di Maialino lessato e servitor tiepido su bagnetto verde alla Piemontese


Riso Carnaroli in risotto al vino rosso e radicchio


Sorbetto all’uva Americana con il suo distillate


Caffe

Bye-bye

Thanks for a great lunch and bye-bye.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Owner Claudio Croci Torti

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

The 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland 

The Wines of Weingut Saxer, a Winemaker in the German-speaking part of Switzerland

The Wines of Switzerland– Grand Tasting with (and Introduction to Swiss Wines by) Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz

Picture: Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner: At the Sorting Table

The visit of Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner was a very special and most entertaining one. First, it was our last stop at a winery in Baden, before driving over to Alsace in France and onto the Pfalz region, in Germany again. Second, on that day, not only our group arrived at the winery, but also grapes from the 2014 harvest and we could have a first hand look at the sorting of the grapes.

Third, Karl-Heinz Johner spends half the time in New Zealand, where he has established another winery – Johner Estate – a few years ago. Thus we did not only have the privilege of tasting the Weingut Johner wines (from Baden/Germany), but also the Johner Estate wines (from New Zealand). Finally, we were hosted by both the senior boss – Karl-Heinz Johner – and the junior boss – Patrick Johner; with the latter, Annette and I spent the 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference in Monteux in Switzerland a few weeks after our visit at Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner

Patrick and Karl-Heinz Johner

Karl-Heinz Johner’s live as a winemaker is a bit unusual. After having received his oenology degree at the well-known Geisenheim University in Germany, Karl-Heinz Johner spent the first 10 years or so of his professional career making wine in Kent, UK. In fact, he was one of the first, if not the first, to produce English sparkler, which are increasingly gaining international recognition. He then returned to Germany in 1985, created Weingut Karl Heinz Johner and started to make wine in Germany. From the outset, Karl Heinz Johner worked with barrique barrels, which was unusual at the time. These wines were considered by the German wine establishment as so far away from what German wine should be at the time that they could not be marketed as Qualitäts- or Preaedikatswein but only as table wines. Then, he got a bit bored in Germany and decided to venture into winemaking in the New World. He created Johner Estate in New Zealand and now spends a lot of the time there, while he still keeps an eye on Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner in Germany.

Pictures: At the Sorting Table with Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner

Patrick followed in his father’s footsteps. He was born in the UK and speaks beautiful English. He studied, as his father, winemaking at the Geisenheim University. He then did internships in the Bourgogne and Australia and travelled with his father around the world to eventually establish Johner Estate in New Zealand. He now got married, has a family with young children and is grounded in Germany. He runs Weingut Karl Heinz Johner in Baden as well as the sale operations of the two Johner wineries in Germany. Stuart Pigott included Patrick Johner in his recently published list of the 111 most promising young German winemakers.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Weingut Karl Heinz Johner

Weingut Karl Heinz Johner is in Bischoffingen in the Kaiserstuhl area in the Baden wine region in Germany. The vineyard area totals 16,5 hectares, and is planted with Pinot Noir(5,8 ha), Pinot Gris (4,1 ha), Pinot Blanc (3,5 ha), Müller-Thurgau (1,9 ha), Chardonnay (0,4 ha) and Sauvignon Blanc (0,4 ha).

Pictures: In the Tasting Room

Weingut Karl Heinz Johner has its own classification system. There are no references on the label to vineyard sites. All wines are either table wines or QbA (Qualitaetswein besonderer Anbaugebiete). The best wines come as reserve bottling, marketed as „SJ” (Selektion Johner). All wines are bottled with a screw-cap closure. Patrick Johner is now mainly responsible for the wines of Weingut Karl Heinz Johner.

Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner is a 3 (out of 5) grapes producer in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland ranking. Annual production is around 100.000 bottles of wine.

The Johner Estate in New Zealand

One of the wine success stories in the past couple of decades is New Zealand. New Zealand’s wine makers have penetrated the global wine market with stunning Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines, but also with other grape varieties and sparklers. Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are New Zealand’s flagship grapes. New Zealand is a relatively small wine country, at about 10% of Germany’s wine output or 2% of France’s output, the world’s largest wine producer.

Pictures: Tasting with Karl-Heinz, Irene and Patrick Johner

The Johner Estate was established in 2001 by Karl Heinz and Patrick Johner. It is outside of Masterton in the northern Wairarapa Valley. Wairarapa is a young wine growing region north of Wellington over the Rimutaka Hills.

The Johners have planted 8 ha of various Pinot Noir clones, originally selected in Burgundy, 3 ha of Sauvignon Blanc and a further hectare of 10 trial Varieties ranging from Pinot Gris to Syrah.

What Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner Poured

Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner

White Wine

2013 Rivaner Euro 8
2013 Lössmännle Euro 8
2013 Grauer Burgunder Euro 12
2012 Sauvignon Blanc Euro 16
2013 Weisser Burgunder and Chardonnay Euro 16 80% Weisser Burgunder 20% Chardonnay
2011 Chardonnay SJ Euro 25
2012 Weisser Burgunder SJ Euro 25


2012 Chardonnay SJ
2013 Weisser Burgunder SJ
2013 Grauburgunder SJ


Red Wine

2011 Blauer Spätburgunder Euro 18
2011 Pinot Noir Bischoffinger Steinbuck Euro 25
2011 Blauer Spätburgunder SJ Euro 50


Johner Estate

2014 Sauginon Blanc Euro 10
2013 Sauvignon Blanc Gladstone Euro 15


2013 Pinot Noir Wairarapa Euro 12
2013 Pinot Noir Gladstone Euro 18


Bye-bye

Thank you very much for a most entertaining tasting and winery tour.


DWCC

A couple of months later at the Digitale Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland with Patrick Johner.


schiller-wine: Related Postings (Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner and Johner Estate)

Visiting Winemaker and Web 2.0 Guru Patrick Johner - Weingut Karl Heinz Johner and Johner Estate - in Baden, Germany

Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2012/2014

German Wine Makers in the World: Karl Heinz Johner in New Zealand

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: Riesling Crawl in New York City

Rieslingfeier is an annual two-day event in New York City that celebrates German Riesling. It is comprised of 3 main elements: First, the cornerstone event is the very fancy Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner. Second, the seminar series provide an educational component. Third, the Riesling Crawl allows you to meet the participating winemakers at wine stores and talk with them and taste their wines – free of charge.

Picture: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller, OmbiasyPR and WineTours and Sommelier Paul Grieco (Terroir, Summer of Riesling) at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York City

This year, Rieslingfeier took place on the Friday, January 30 and Saturday, January 31. 11 winemakers attended, all belonging to the elite of German winemakers, including world stars like Klaus Peter Keller, Egon Müller and Johannes Leitz.

7 wine stores participated in the Riesling Crawl 2015. My guess is that the list of participating retail stores is a very good list, when it comes to buying German Riesling in New York City.

This posting is part of a series covering the 2015 Rieslingfeier; it focuses on the Riesling Crawls and the participating wine stores. Here is a list of all postings:

Coming-up: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA
The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 – Gala Dinner, USA
Lunch at Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City, USA

Rieslingfeier 2015: Riesling Crawl

Riesling Crawl, Saturday, January 31, 2015, 12:30PM to 4:30PM - Organizer Stephen Bitterolf: The Riesling Crawl is a free and open-to-the-public tasting pairing 11 of Germany’s greatest winemakers with several of New York’s top German wine retailers. This year we've divided the crawl into two distinct sessions (in an effort to make more time for the seminars). We have tried as best as possible to locate the tastings within as close a proximity to each other as possible. Each year this event attracts hundreds of German wine fans from around the U.S. – this year we’ll have more participating winemakers than ever before and expect this to be the best edition yet. These tastings will focus largely on current-vintage releases but there will likely be a surprise or two along the way. So break out your NYC subway map and get ready.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf, Johannes Leitz, Eva Fricke

Astor Wines & Spirits

Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street - Egon Müller IV and Hanno Zilliken

Astor Wines & Spirits: a Village institution for 60 years. Astor’s huge, well-curated selection of 4,000 wines, spirits, and sakés rests in its temperature-controlled, green–powered building on Lafayette and East 4th Streets.

Pictures: At  Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street with Egon Müller IV and Hanno Zilliken

Chambers Street Wines

Chambers Street Wines, 148 Chambers Street - Johannes Weber (Hofgut Falkenstein)

Chambers Street Wines: Chambers Street Wines opened in June 2001, the product of David Lillie's and Jamie Wolff's idea that New York might support a shop that indulged their love for naturally made wines from artisanal small producers. There are very, very few brand names here. We choose wines that express their origins, the talent and commitment of the growers and winemakers, and the inherent quality of the vintage.

Flatiron Wines & Spirits

Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway - Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof)

Flatiron Wines & Spirits: Our mission is to enrich the wine lives of our customers by providing a new and diverse source of artisanal wines at a convenient location in the heart of Manhattan – steps from the Union Square Green Market and Eataly. Our pricing is fair, our service is excellent, and our passion for wine is intense!

Pictures: At  Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway with Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof)

Black Label Wine Merchants

Back Label Wine Merchants, 111 West 20th Street - Roman Niewodniczanski

Edible Manhattan: Black Label Wine Merchants and Stinky BKLYN have joined forces to create a massive wine and cheese shop at 20th and 6th. The beloved Brooklyn cheese shop, which has been open for a decade in Cobble Hill, brought their cheese across the river earlier this month to pair up with Black Label’s incredible wine selection in a 3,000 square foot location. The final product is a dream come true, complete with ten beer, cider and kombucha taps, a tasting room, live music and plenty of local spirits.

Picture:  At Back Label Wine Merchants, 111 West 20th Street with Roman Niewodniczanski

Crush Wines & Spirits

Crush Wines & Spirits, 153 East 57th Street - Andreas Hütwohl (Von Winning) and Gernot Kollmann (Immich-Batterieberg)

Crush Wines & Spirits: We are committed to helping you find wines that fit your taste, whether you enjoy an occasional glass of Chardonnay or want to learn more about new and different wines in our elegant tasting room or informative classes. More than a beautiful space that caters to the experienced wine drinker or passionate collector, Crush is a resource for all of our guests to discover their new favorite wine.

Moore Brothers Wine Company

Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street - Klaus Peter Keller

Moore Brothers Wine Company: In 1996, Greg Moore, the Sommelier / General Manager of Le Bec-Fin, and his brother David, a wine retailer, opened Moore Brothers Wine Company, offering a collection of personally selected wine in a small store in Pennsauken, New Jersey. Now there are three stores, serving New Jersey, Delaware, and New York, presenting small-farm, naturally-produced, artisan wines primarily from the “Old World.” The wines are selected via a direct, personal relationship with many of the finest producers in their respective regions, shipped in temperature-controlled containers, and presented in a friendly, comfortable retail environment which serves over sixty-thousand enthusiastic customers.

Pictures: At Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street with Klaus Peter Keller and David Schildknecht

Union Square Wines

Union Square Wines, 140 Fourth Avenue at 13th Street - Eva Fricke & Johannes Leitz

Zagat: Vinophiles return again and again to the super and superbly edited selection (some 2,500 labels) at this spacious, classy wine emporium off Union Square that has earned a loyal following among frequent buyers who can rack up points with purchases and use Enomatic wine cards to get free tastings; some report gouge-level prices, but others citing case discounts, a well-educated staff and amazing events.

Schiller’ Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France 
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA  
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar   

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim– Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany   

Picture: Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim, with Frank Schuber and Roland Gillot

The visit of Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim, Rheinhessen, was a pure tasting event, but an extensive one: We had the chance to taste the wines Weingut Kühling Gillot as well as of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier. Both estates are owned by the winemaker couple Caroline Gillot-Spanier and H.O. Spanier.

Pictures: Weingut Kuehling-Gillot in Bodenheim

The tasting was led by Sommelier Frank Schuber; Roland Gillot, Caroline’s father, joined us for a short period. Caroline Gillot-Spanier and H.O. Spanier were in Berlin for a major VDP event.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Frank Schuber at a Dinner in Frankfurt

Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier

The Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier is in Hohen-Sülzen (Wonnegau area) close to the city of Worms in Southern Rheinhessen. The Spanier family has been making wine for generations. The vineyard area totals 18 hectares, with holdings in: Kirchenstück, Rosengarten und Sonnenberg (Hohen-Sülzen), as well as Frauenberg (Flörsheim). More than 50% of the area is planted with Riesling, as well as with Pinot Noir (20%), Pinot Blanc (8%), Silvaner, Chardonnay and other varieties.

Annual production is around 70.000 bottles of wine. The estate is a member of the VDP association. H. O. Spanier has been a member of the ECOVIN organic growers association since 1996. Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier is now fully biodynamic.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller and H.O.Spanier in Mainz

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot is in Bodenheim (Nierstein area) in Rheinhessen in Germany. In its present form, it came about by marriage in 1970 of Caroline Spanier-Gillot’s parents. It has over 200 years of history behind it through the Kühling and Gillot families.

Over the years, the estate has acquired some of the best sites in Germany on the Rhine Terrace and added an architectural gem: its unique park and Art Deco pavilion, and stylish reception hall, tasting room, and vinothek. These have proved popular for a wide variety of events, including our tasting.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Caroline Spanier-Gillot in Bodenheim.

The vineyard area of Weingut Kuehling-Gillot totals 11 hectares, with holdings in: Burgweg (Bodenheim), Kreuz and Sackträger (Oppenheim), Ölberg and Pettental (Nierstein) and Rothenberg (Nackenheim). Grape varieties planted are Riesling (4,3 ha), Pinot Noir (0,9 ha), Pinot Gris (0,8 ha), Portugieser (0,8 ha), Chardonnay (0,5 ha) and Scheurebe (0,4 ha).

Annual production is around 70.000 bottles of wine. The estate is a member of the VDP association. Caroline Spanier-Gillot is a member of Message in a Bottle and Vinissima. Weingut Kuehling-Gillot is now fully biodynamic.

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot owns five Grosse Lagen (Grand Cru) sites. These are: Spätburgunder Bodenheim Burgweg, grown on sandy marl limestone; Riesling Nackenheim Rothenberg, grown on red slate; Riesling Nierstein Pettenthal, grown on red slate; Riesling Nierstein Ölberg, grown on red slate; and Spätburgunder Oppenheim Kreuz, grown on shell limestone/loess.

Pictures: Tasting

Biodynamic Wine Making

Carolin and H.O. are very much into “green winemaking”. They share a comitment to leaving a legacy of healthy soil and great wines. To that end, when it comes to the vineyard, they employ biodynamic methods and constantly strive to maintain healthy soils with the capacity to sustain vines. As for making the wine in the cellar, they share the philosophy of what H. O. calls “controlled laissez faire”.

Pictures: Roland Gillot Joining

Pooling

Although both estates continue to produce wine under their respective names – Weingut Kuehling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier - certain functions have been pooled. The tasting room and sales office for both estates is in Bodenheim at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot. As wine makers, both have stamped their wines with a unique signature, but H.O. is taking the lead in in terms of winemaking at both estates. Essentially, when it comes to the wines of Weingut Kuehling-Gillot and Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier, they carry the signature of H.O. Spanier.

The Wines we Tasted

BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Grüner Sylvaner Trocken VDP.Gutswein Euro 9.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Hohen-Sülzen Grüner Sylvaner Trocken VDP.Ortswein Euro 15.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Weissburgunder Trocken VDP.Gutswein Euro 9.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Hohen-Sülzen Weissburgunder Trocken VDP.Ortswein Euro 15.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Riesling Trocken VDP.Gutswein Euro 9.50
Kühling-Gillot 2013 Riesling Trocken VDP.Gutswein Euro 9.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Riesling Hohen-Sülzen VDP.Ortswein Euro 16.50
Kühling-Gillot 2013 Nackenheim Riesling Trocken VDP.Ortswein Euro 16.50


BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Mölsheim Riesling Trocken VDP.Ortswein Euro 19.50
Kühling-Gillot 2013 Nierstein Riesling Riesling Trocken VDP.Ortswein Euro 16.50
Kühling-Gillot 2013 Ölberg Riesling GG VDP.GrosseLage Euro 33.50
BattenfeldSpanier 2013 Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgot GG VDP. GrosseLage Euro 39.50


Lunch at the Bootshaus in Mainz

After the tasting we returned to Mainz for lunch at Frank Buchholz' Bootshaus. This is the second restaurant of Michelin-starred Chef Frank Buchholz.

Picture: Lunch at Bootshaus

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier)

Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany  

Picture:  Marc and Laurence Pasquet, Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller, and Other Guests

“Marc Pasquet’s wines are not in the class of Château Petrus, but they do not cost as much as Château Petrus” said owner Laurent Janowsky of Del Ray Café, when he introduced his guest of honor, Marc Pasquet. Marc Pasquet and his wife Laurence make what is called “Petit Château Bordeaux” wines, i.e. good Bordeaux wines at affordable prices.

Picture: Del Ray Café in Alexandria

Frank J. Prial (New York Times): Everyone knows about the first growths, even people who never drink wine: Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Yquem, maybe a couple of more. They're the superstars of the wine world. But they are not Bordeaux, any more than Romanee-Conti is Burgundy or Ridge Vineyards is California. In a good year, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild may produce 160,000 bottles of wine. In the same year, all of Bordeaux may produce 500 million bottles.

There are thousands of these Petit Château winemakers in Bordeaux, who make excellent wines for little money. And Marc Pasquet is one of them. His wines are widely available in the greater Washington DC area.

Marc Pasquet was in the greater Washington DC area for a week “to work the market”. Part of this effort was the winemaker dinner at Del Ray Café, which Annette Schiller and I attended.

We were about 20 guests and enjoyed very much the wines of Marc Pasquet and the menu prepared by Executive Chief of Del Ray Café Vincent Damman and his team. The dinner was excellent: Simple, but well thought through and very tasty; and very well presented.

Overall, it was a marvelous, joyful evening, and, at US$89 including tax and tip, reasonably priced.

Marc Pasquet and Château Mondésir-Gazin 

Marc Pasquet and his wife Laurence hail from the Bretagne region in the northern part of France, known for cheese and seafood, but not for wine. Marc used to be a photographer. His passion for wine brought him to the Bordeaux region, where he learnt the art of winemaking in St. Estephe on the left bank, before establishing his own winery on the right bank..

Picture: Marc and Laurence Pasquet

In 1990, Marc and Laurence, encouraged by the optimism and faith of their families, took the plunge and bought land and a winery in the Bourg area.

Laurence and Marc Pasquet: Situated in Plassac, this estate is called after two hillside vineyard parcels – “Gazin”, facing directly south, and “Mondésir”, overlooking the Gironde estuary. The natural beauty of this landscape and the extremely high quality of these terroirs, incited us to acquire this property in 1990. Over the past 25 years, we have been unrelentingly committed to the elaboration of wines fully expressing the characteristics of this microclimate.

Pictures: Marc Pasquet

Laurence and Marc Pasquet explained further: Château Mondésir-Gazin is situated along the Gironde. The estuary regulates the climate, thereby limiting certain excessive weather conditions such as frost and hail.

The vines are 5 to 50 years old. Merlot is the chief variety, however an important proportion of the estate is also planted with Malbec, thereby reinforcing the special character of the location’s wines.

The latest plantation, representing 3 hectares, comprises 7,400 rootstock per hectare. This high density is an essential element in the production of top quality grapes.

Pictures: Laurence and Marc Pasquet and Christian G.E. Schiller

The tilled parcels are treated without the use of chemical weed killers, pesticides and insecticides. We also limit the use of sulphites during the maturation of our offerings. These growing choices are environmentally friendly and allow us to provide customers with healthy wines.

The extremely flattened shape of the vats offers a large contact surface between the marc and the juice. As a result, the future wine is gently extracted. Big open vats make it possible to carry out cap pumping (a technique pushing the marc into the juice).

Maturing: There is a cellar for the first year of ageing and one for the second year. The estate favors a long maturation period (22 months), instead of using a lot of new oak (limited to a third of the barrels).

Del Ray Café

Del Ray Café is owned and run by the French/American couple Margaret and Laurent Janowsky. They met in the mid-1990s, supposedly when they were both walking their dogs. “She was an accountant. He was a restaurant manager. She was the daughter of Patsy Ticer, the then Mayor of Alexandria. He was from the Alsace region of Eastern France and had immigrated to America.”

Pictures: Laurent Janowsky

Bitches Who Brunch: The Del Ray Cafe is a neighborhood gem. It’s in two-story white house just off Mount Vernon (Del Ray’s Main Street). It looks like a house that Grandma converted into a restaurant 50 years ago but kept in impeccable shape. It’s got a screened-in porch, window boxes full of pretty flowers, a lovely garden, even a Christmas tree in the front yard. Inside, it’s all wooden floors and wooden tables, kitchen tchotkes on the walls. You feel like you’re walking into someone’s house, only to be seated upstairs at a big table by the window and handed a menu that is decidedly French. Also resembling Grandma’s house: The food is all natural and organic. Oh, and the restaurant is completely peanut-free, for you allergic folks.

Reception

We started out with a reception in a first floor room.

Hors d’Oeuvres

Château Mondésir, Côtes de Bordeaux, 2011 US$16.50

100% Merlot. A deep ruby color, this full-bodied wine has loads of black fruit, spicy plum, vanilla, pine wood box and blackcurrant. On the palate, there is harmonious black fruit with notes of licorice, black currants, oak, and minerality. It has a supple finish with definite length in the mouth. Excellent with grilled steak.

Pictures: Reception

Dinner

The dinner was in the second floor. We were sitting at 3 tables. Annette had the privilege to sit next to Marc Pascquet.

Pictures: Dinner

First Course

Gascony Salad
with Gizzards, Walnuts and a Raspberry Vinaigrette

Château Haut Mondésir, Côtes de Bourg, 2010, US$30

90% Merlot, 10% Malbec. 18-20 months in oak barrels. Thickly textured, deeply colored, & scented with dark ripe fruit, spices, oak, licorice. Wrapped in an incredible balance and harmony, full-bodied, full-flavored.

Decanter Magazine 91 Dark fruit and chocolate, liquorish notes on the nose. Spicy barrel-aged bouquet supported by Mediterranean body and ripe tannic structure. A certain complexity evident. Plummy aftertaste retains freshness. Lashings of fruit. Characterful, with firm, fresh finish.

Pictures: First Course

Second Course

Veal Cheeks on a Wild Mushroom Cheesy Polenta
with a Veal Reduction Sauce

Château Mondésir-Gazin, 2010 US$30

65% Merlot, 35% Malbec. This wine shows a dark color, intense & profound nose of black fruits, spices, cedar, lead pencil, and spicy oak, in which it ages for 18 months, in 33% new barrels. More of the same flavors on the palate, in a full-bodied style, extremely round, juicy, & supple, with a tightly knit yet very ripe structure and concentration. Superb finish with hints of licorice.

Wine Spectator 89 This has a dusting of cocoa, but the fruit is fleshy and pure, with a caressing feel to the steeped plum and blackberry notes, which then give way to bay leaf and sage on the finish. Offers good chalky grip. Drink now through 2016. 2,000 cases made. –JM

Pictures: Second Course

Third Course

Tournedos of Black Angus Beef à la Bordelaise

Château Gontey, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2010 US$37.50

80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. From a small 3 ha estate located near Pomerol. Aged for 18 months in 1/3 new oak. Very ripe, deeply colored; intense jammy berry fruit, spices, sweet oak tones, cedar, showing amazing structure, gorgeous concentration, and great balance.

Pictures: Third Course

Dessert

Miniatures

Picture: Minatures

Importer and Distributor: Elite Wines

In 2002, Laurent Michel Givry, a native of Toulouse, France and a veteran of the wine industry, started Elite Wines with small, eclectic, and yet good valued wines from France and Spain. Right from the beginning, he was very successful with his concept. Today, the portfolio includes a large number of French and Spanish wines as well as Australian, New Zealand, Argentine, Chilean, German and American wines.

OmbiasyPR and WineTours: Looking forward to Going Back to Bordeaux

Annette Schiller owns and runs ombiasyPR and WineTours, focusing on wine tours to Germany and France. The 2015 program includes a tour to Bordeaux.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Marc Pasquet in at Del Ray Café

September 15 - September 24, 2015: BORDEAUX (USD 4,995 per person / dbl occupancy) - Spend 10 days in Bordeaux! ”Bordeaux” embodies more than just wine. In France the interplay of wine and food is very important and plays an integral part of our journey through the Bordeaux wine region. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of the region as well as our personal ties to many of the players in the Bordeaux wine scene, we will visit many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to feel what Bordeaux is all about. In a nutshell: this is an on ground Bordeaux wine class.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Corinne Chevrier-Loriaud at Château Bel-Air la Royère in Bordeaux

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
 

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller and Steven Kent with Hubert Trimbach at Maison Trimbach

The Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) included a visit of a French winery - Maison Trimbach in Alsace. When you look at the map, Alsace is just opposite of the Baden region on the other side of the Rhein Valley and below (south of) the Pfalz region, which is also on the western side of the Rhein Valley. So, being in the south of Baden with a number of wineries in the Pfalz as next leg of the trip, Annette had included a night in Alsace coupled with a visit of Domaine Trimbach and a dinner in an Alsatian brasserie. Good thought!

Picture: Arriving at Maison Trimbach

It was very interesting to taste the Trimbach wines and compare them with the German wines. Even wines of the same grape variety are distinctively different. This is due to different terroir but in a large part to the different philosophy of winemaking in Germany and Alsace. In a nutshell: the modern German winemaking aims at elegant, fruity, crisp, perfectly balanced wines whereas the Alsatian winemaker wants body, boldness and strength for the wines to accompany the hearty Alsatian food.

This “detour” gave us the opportunity to explore the small, picture-perfect, medieval Alsatian village of Ribeauvillé. We had a memorable dinner at a local brasserie, eating typical Alsatian food and drinking Alsatian wines.

Jean, Pierre, Anne and Hubert Trimbach

Trimbach is one of the big names of Alsace. Outside of Alsace many people associate Domaine Trimbach with the face of Jean Trimbach. Because it is him, who tours the world and promotes and sells the Trimbach wines around the world (with 85% of Maison Trimbach wines exported), while his brother Pierre Trimbach stays in Ribeauvillé in the winery and looks after the winemaking. So, I have enjoyed a number of evening with Jean Trimbach and his wines in Washington DC, as well as a tour and tasting at the winery in Ribeauvillé with Jean Trimbach.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller with Jean Trimbach at Open Kitchen, Virginia, USA

This time, Jean was travelling as was his nice, Anne Trimbach, Pierre’s daughter, the oldest member of the 13th generation, who is working alongside Jean and also travelling around the world, and we were hosted by a very competent Domaine Trimbach employee. But Jean’s uncle, Hubert Trimbach from the 11th generation, dropped by and we had a chance to chat with one of the Trimbach family members. His brother, Bernard Trimbach, father of Jean and Pierre Trimbach retired in 2008, when Anne Trimbach joined the team.

Maison Trimbach

Maison Trimbach’s wine-making history goes back to 1626, when Jean Trimbach was recognized as a citizen of Riquewihr in Alsace. From then on, the Maison Trimbach became renowned for its wines. However, it was not until the turn to the 20th century, when, under the leadership of Frédéric-Emile Trimbach, business really took off. Since then, Maison Trimbach has remained a family run business, based in Ribeauville, just a few miles north of Riquewihr, were it all began almost 400 years ago.

Maison Trimbach is very export-oriented with more than 85 percent of the production being exported. It is both a domaine and negociant, thus it produces wine sourced from own vineyards (40 hectares) and from lease contracts (60 hectares).

Winemaking Philosophy

Maison Trimbach's vineyards are all situated around Ribeauvillé, where the soils are mainly limestone. The best sites include the Grands Crus Rosacker, Osterberg and Geisberg, but as indicated above, Maison Trimbach is one of the winemakers in Alsace that are staying away from the Grand Cru AOC system, while Maison Trimbach’s Clos Ste Hune, a Grand Cru, is arguably the finest wine of Alsace. In terms of grape varieties, the emphasis is on Riesling, but Maison Trimbach also grows all other classic Alsatian grape varieties, such as Gewuerztraminer.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Maison Trimbach

Jean explains Trimbach’s wine making philosophy: “In the vineyard, the vines are cared for with a restricted approach to the use of chemicals, including insecticides and fertilizers. We ferment at 20 to 21 degrees Celsius in stainless steel tanks and large, wooden barrels. It does not really matter, if a wine is fermented in a tank or a barrel. It is more a question of fitting our needs with what is available. The barrels are smaller than the tanks and therefore the wines we produce in smaller quantities tend to end up in the wooden barrels. We never use new oak. We never do malolactic fermentation. As a rule, we bottle very early to preserve the freshness and the fruitiness. This is what Alsace is all about. The wine then matures in the bottle. The same principle as vintage port. We release wine often only 5 years later. Sometimes we wait up to 10 years.”

The Trimbachs let their wines age in the bottles in the cellar during several years before they release them on the market, especially the grand cru wines, such as the Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile. Wines are tasted frequently and released when deemed appropriate.

The Maison Trimbach Wine Portfolio

The Trimbach wines come in 4 quality groups: (i) the Classic range, (ii) the Reserve range, (iii) the Reserve Personelle range and (iv) the Prestige and Collection wines.

Trimbach Classic: This is the Trimbach entry level range. These wines represent the traditional, dry, crisp Alsace white wine style and come as Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Silvaner, Gewuerztraminer and Riesling.

Trimbach Reserve: The Reserve wines are made from sections with mostly old vines. These are more complex wines than the Classic wines and can age longer. The Reserve wines come as Muscat, Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, and Pinot Gris. Maison Trimbach is not particularly known for red wines, but they do produce a Pinot Noir Reserve as well as a Pinot Noir Reserve Personelle.

Pictures: Tasting Trimbach Wines with Hubert Trimbach

Trimbach Reserve Personelle: The wines of the Reserve Personelle range are from the best terroirs of the estate and not produced every year. These wines will keep for years. There are 3 Reserve Personelle wines: (1) the Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, (2) the Gewurztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre and (3) the Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. They are clearly recognizable because of their golden labels. The Cuvée Frédéric Emile is probably the best known Trimbach wine. It is one of the finest wines of Alsace, if not one of the world's greatest white wines.

Trimbach Prestige and Collection Wines: This group comprises (1) the Riesling "Clos Sainte Hune", (2) the Vendanges Tardives wines and (3) the Sélection de Grains Nobles wines, made from Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewuerztraminer. The Clos Sainte Hune is an exceptional terroir, exclusively planted with Riesling, located in the heart of the Grand Cru Rosacker, in Hunawihr. This Clos totals 1.67 hectares and has been in the propriety of the Trimbach family for more than 200 years.

The Wines we Tasted

2013 Muscat Reserve Euro 12,40
2012 Riesling Classic Euro 11,40
2011 Riesling Reserve Euro 15,05
2011 Riesling Reserve Vieilles Vignes Euro 17,25
2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile Euro 41,00


2009 Riesling Clos Sainte Hune Euro 133,00
2008 Pinot Gris Reserve Pesonnelle Euro 24,25
2007 Gewürztraminer Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Euro 30,65
2007 Gewürtztraminer Vendage Tardive Euro 34,30
2007 Gewürtztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles Hors choix Euro 113,00

Alsace

Alsace is one of the several world class French wine regions, which produces many excellent still and sparkling, red and white wines, but above all it is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines. They tend to be different from those in the other parts of France: Higher in acidity, sometimes really sour, but always a pleasant experience to have them in the glass. And they go very well with the Alsatian food, which is also unique in France. The famous choucroute you find only there in France. But of course, you find it also in neighboring Germany, for example in Frankfurt am Main. Compared with Germany, which also is famous for its world class dry wines, Alsace wines tend to be drier, more full-bodied and higher in alcohol. Finally, sweeter white wines and red wines play only a minor role in Alsace, but they have a very good sparkling wine, the Cremant d’Alsace.

Pictures: Arriving at our Hotel in the Center of Ribeauvillé

Alsace sits in the northeast corner of France, sheltered by the Vosges mountains to the west and hard against the German border to the east. The vineyards reach from around Wissembourg in the north to Mulhouse, 70 miles south. Some 12 million cases are produced annually from 32,000 acres of vineyards.

Alsace is a fascinating amalgam of the German and French. The end of the 30 Years’ War in 1648 gave Alsace to France. In 1871, at the end of the Franco-Prussian War, Alsace was taken by Germany. After World War I, it was once more part of France — until 1940, when Germany reclaimed it. With the defeat of the Nazis in 1945, Alsace became French yet again — and so it has remained. Wine production in Alsace traces its beginnings to the early centuries of the Roman Empire, when the Romans conquered Alsace and introduced wine.

Pictures: Strolling through Ribeauvillé with Ellen Kirch

One of the most intriguing characteristics of Alsace wines is that they are bottled under their varietal names, unlike virtually all other French wines. Four grape varieties are considered to be the best:(i) Riesling – like in Germany, the most celebrated grape; (ii) Muscat – often used to produce sweet wines in France, the Alsace version is bone-dry; (iii) Pinot Gris and (iv) Gewurztraminer – Alsace's signature grape. Three other white grape varieties are also grown: (i) Sylvaner – A high-yielding grape, producing a refreshing wine, often used for blends, (ii) Pinot Blanc and (iii) Chardonnay – used only for sparkling wine. In addition, Alsace does have a little red wine made from the Burgundy grape, Pinot Noir. The Alsatian red wines tend to be quite lightweight, but can be delicious and interesting.

Dinner in Alsace

We ended the day witth a relxed dinner at a local brasserie.


schiller-wine: Related Postings (Domaine Trimbach)

A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France (2014)

Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA (2013)

Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace (2011)

With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC (2011)

Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC (2010)

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: At Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau

Some of the events of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) focused exclusively on wine. Others focused on other aspects, notably art, history and food. The visit of the Eberbach Abbey was one of those, where wine was important, but art and history were at the center.

The visit at Kloster Eberbach comprised 3 elements: Lunch at the Tavern of Kloster Eberbach, a guided tour of the abbey and a wine tasting.

Following the visit of Kloster Eberbach, we walked about a mile to the famous Steinberg vineyard, where we took a quick look at the new winery of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and sat down in the Steinberg vineyard with many other Sunday visitors from the Greater Frankfurt am Main area and had a couple of glasses of wine from the Steinberg vineyard. I will report in a separate posting about the visit of the Steinberg vineyard.

Picture: Arriving at Kloster Eberbach

Kloster Eberbach

The Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine river.

Today, the Eberbach Abbey is a large State-owned winery (the State of Hessen is its proprietor) and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive.

Pictures: Kloster Eberbach

Most of the vineyard holdings of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach date back to the 12th centuries, when Cistercian monks founded the Eberbach Abbey. The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe.

The Abbey, including its vineyards, was secularised under Napoleon in 1803. The new owner was the Duke of Nassau. Then, from 1866, Prussia became the owner of the Abbey and its vineyards. Finally, in 1945 after World War II, the Federal State of Hessen took it over.

Pictures: Lunch at Kloster Eberbach

We got an in-depth tour of the Abbey, including the visit of the old monk’s dormitory where every year the famous auction of premium German wines takes place. A very special treat was a peek into the treasure chamber, where century old wine bottles are still stored and where the movie “The Name of the Rose” with Sean Connery was filmed in 1986.

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach

The Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach serves as an umbrella organization for seven individual wine estates, including 3 wine producing facilities and cellars:

The Bensheim Estate is the only one located in the Hessische Bergstraße wine-growing region. Grand Duke of Hessen-Darmstadt founded this Estate in 1904, the vineyard holdings total 38 hectares. The main grape variety planted is Riesling (25 ha), as well as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Pictures: A Tour of Kloster Eberbach

The red wine Estate Assmannshausen at the western edge of the Rheingau has a vineyard area of 27 hectares in the Höllenberg site, of which 25 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir. These two Estates do their own bottling, and market the wines under their own names.

 Pictures: Old Presses

The Hattenheim Estate (50 ha vineyard area in the Engelmannsberg, Siegelsberg and Marcobrunn sites).

The Hochheim Estate.

The Rauenthal Estate (48 ha in the Baiken and Wülfen sites).

The Rüdesheim Estate (23 ha in the Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland and Berg Schlossberg sites).

The Steinberg (32 ha, a monopole holding).

The total vineyard area of the 7 estates comes to more than 200 hectares, of which 85% are planted with Riesling, 10% with Pinot Noir and 5% with other varieties.

Pictures: Wine Tasting at Kloster Eberbach, including a 1971 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese

A few years ago, the Hessische Staatsweingüter built a new winemaking facility and celler just outside the wall of Steinberg, the Steinbergkeller. The Steinbergkeller – a state of the art winery - was a very controversial project. It was constructed for several 100 million Euro.

Next Stop: Steinberg Vineyard

Following the visit of Kloster Eberbach, we walked about a mile to the famous Steinberg vineyard, where we took a quick look at the new winery of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and sat down in the Steinberg vineyard with many other Sunday visitors from the Greater Frankfurt am Main area and had a couple of glasses of wine from the Steinberg vineyard.

Picture: Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Kloster Eberbach)

Riesling Gala 2014 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany

In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany

Steinberger Riesling 1893 from Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Germany to San Francisco in California, USA

Picture: Winemaker Vincent Bottreau, Maison Bouchard Aîne & Fils, Annette Schiller, ombiasyOR and WineTours, and Sommelier Hilaire L. Creamer, L'Auberge Chez François

A few weeks ago, Annette Schiller and I enjoyed a massive Bouchard Père et Fils wine tasting, organized by Panos Kakaviatos at Ripple in Washington DC. I have provided a write-up of the event, with extensive tasting notes by Annette Schiller, here:
Vintage 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Tasting at Ripple in Washington DC, USA – With Tasting Notes by Annette Schiller

This time, it was again a Bouchard tasting. However, we did not taste as many wines and they were not Bouchard Père et Fils wines, but wines of Bouchard Aîne & Fils. The 2 Bourgogne wine producers Bouchard Père et Fils and Bouchard Aîne & Fils have similar names and the same roots, but are now completely independent of each other.

Further, this time, the tasting was part of a delicious, elaborate dinner prepared by the team of Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his team at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls. Chef Jacques was on vacation, but the dinner was nevertheless excellent. Typical, classic French food at a very high level.

Also, this time, the winemaker was present and talked extensively about the Bouchard Aîne & Fils wines he presented.

Again, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, provided the tasting notes for this posting and I did the rest.

Bouchard Aîne & Fils

Bouchard Aîne & Fils is a large negociant, based in Beaune, in the Côte de Beaune. Bouchard Aîne & Fils and Bouchard Père et Fils have the same roots: the company was established as a cloth merchant by Michel Bouchard in Volnay in 1731. Starting in 1746, his son Joseph Bouchard began selling wines and acquiring vineyards.

Pictures: Winemaker Dinner with Vincent Bottreau and his Maison Bouchard Aîne & Fils Wines at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, USA

The split-up came in the early 1800s, when Antoine-Philibert-Joseph Bouchard broke up with his oldest son, Joseph-Théodore. In 1813, Joseph-Théodore Bouchard married the daughter of Simon Maire, who was a negociant in Beaune. The Bouchard family affaires were divided in 1828, with Joseph-Théodore Bouchard talking over one part (and calling it Bouchard Aîne & Fils) and his brother Bernard Bouchard talking over the other part (and keeping the name Bouchard Père et Fils).

While the latter over time assembled one of the finest portfolios in Bourgogne of 130 hectares of vineyard in the heart of the Côte d’Or – 12 of them classified as Grand Cru and 74 as Premier Cru, including: Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Corton, Corton-Charlemagne, Clos Vougeot, Chambertin, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus, Volnay Caillerets, Meursault Perrières - Bouchard Aîne & Fils always remained a negociant.

In 1993, Bouchard Aîne & Fils was sold to the Boisset family. In 1995, Bouchard Père et Fils was sold to Joseph Henriot in the Champagne.

Bouchard Aîné & Fils in Beaune

The history of Bouchard Aîné & Fils in Beaune is inextricably linked with that of Burgundy wine and the town of Beaune itself. The Hôtel du Conseiller du Roy, built in 1743, is a jewel of Burgundian architecture and houses the headquarters of Bouchard Aîné & Fils. It is located just a five-minute walk from the town’s famous Hospices de Beaune. At the time it was built, it was the town’s first residence to be built outside the city walls. The Hôtel du Conseiller du Roy opens the doors to its cellars for one-of-a-kind tours and tastings, known as the Tour of the Five Senses.

Picture:  Hôtel du Conseiller du Roy

Boisset

Bouchard Aîné & Fils is part of the Boisset portfolio. The Boisset family business (Boisset - La Famille des Grands Vins), based at Nuits-Saint-Georges in Burgundy, is France's third largest wine group, and Burgundy's largest wine producer. In the US (Boisset Family Estates), it is one of the top 25 wine producers.

Jean-Charles Boisset is President of Boisset - La Famille des Grands Vins. Decanter magazine has recognized Jean-Charles #24 among its "Power List" of the most influential people in the world of wine. Jean-Charles Boisset is married to Gina Gallo, granddaughter of Julio Gallo of E & J Gallo Winery, America’s largest winery, and the world's second-biggest wine company after Constellation. They have 2 children (twin girls).

The Boisset Family Estates in the US include: Raymond Vineyards, Napa Valley, DeLoach Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma.

The Boisset Family Estates in France include: Domaine de la Vougeraie, Premeaux-Prissey, Jean-Claude Boisset, Nuits-St.-Georges, Bouchard Aîné & Fils, Beaune, J. Moreau & Fils, Chablis, Mommessin, Beaujolais, Louis Bouillot, Nuits-St.-Georges, Ropiteau, Meursault, Fortant, Sete.

Winemaker Vincent Bottreau: From Technology to Oenology!

In the 18th century, the Bouchard family moved from the world of fabric to the world of wine. In the 21st century, the Bouchard Aîné & Fils has a winemaker who moved from the digital world to the universe of all things wine.

Pictures: Vincent Bottreau, Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller

A few years ago, Vincent Bottreau made his own career shift into vine and wine. This former telecommunications engineer who registered 15 patents and had several scientific papers published, had always been passionate about Bourgogne wines, and proved this when he obtained his a BPREA qualification in wine and oenology in Beaune, followed by a DNO from Dijon, coming top of his class in 2013. After experiencing several vintages in South Africa as well as in a range of reputed Burgundy estates, Vincent, who favors balanced, forthright wines, took over the reins at Bouchard Aîné & Fils in 2014.

The Dinner


Chef Jacques' Hors d’oeuvres
Assorted Housemade Patés, Norwegian Smoked Salmon, Parmesan Puff Pastry Straws
Bouchard Pouilly Fuisse 2010


Napoléon of Virginia Smoked Trout
Bouchard Savigny Les Beaune Blanc 2012


Rockfish Mousseline with Salmon Caviar, Quenelle of Carrot Purée and Broccoli Florets with Chardonnay Reduction
Bouchard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Macharelles 2012


Grilled Medallion of Ahi Tuna with Fried Leeks, Green Peppercorn Sauce
Bouchard Fixin "La Maziere" 2012
Bouchard Pommard 1er Cru Les Charmots 2012


Classic Baked Alaska


Tasting Notes (Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours)

The tasting notes were provided by Annette Schiller from ombiasyPR and WineTours. The ombiasyPR and WineTours 2015 program includes 3 tours to Germany (East, South, North) and 1 tour to Bordeaux. See: 4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South, Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

The 2016 program also includes a wine tour to Bourgogne. In fact, we will tour Bourgogne in 2015, but with a specific group (Wine Brotherhood Hochheim). This tour will be repeated in 2016 and open for anybody, who would like to come along.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Vincent Bottreau

Bouchard Aîné & Fils Pouilly-Fussé 2010

Very aromatic on the nose, floral notes paired with mineral notes. This is due to the fact that the clone of the Chardonnay grapes used for this wine differs somewhat from the rest: old vines with a hint of Muscat, which explains the pronounced aromatic on the nose. Despite being aged in 20% new oak barrels, no overbearing oak on the nose and the palate. This five year old wine came together beautifully. A full-bodied, elegant, harmonious wine with a wonderful finish.


Bouchard Aîné & Fils Savigny Les Beaune Blanc 2012

A very nice, fruity Chardonnay with hints of lemon, herbs on the nose, yet still restraint. Will need some more time to fully open up. The fermentation started out in stainless steel, then aged for 10 months in 15% new oak. Still a bit oaky on the nose, but on the palate aromas, oak, minerality, and acidity were already nicely integrated. The finish was moderately long.


Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Macharelles 2012

A beautiful nose of white fruit, floral notes with a hint of pastries. This wine was in French oak -25% new oak- for 16 months. There was no stirring on the lease to avoid heaviness. The oak is moderate on the nose as well as on the palate. A beautiful, creamy Chardonnay with a lot of finesse and a very good finish.


Bouchard Aîné & Fils Bouchard Fixin “La Maziere” 2012

A very nice nose of dark berry fruits, cherry, a bit of wet leaves, fur. Maceration in large wooden vats as long as possible, starting out with cold maceration to give the juice some nice color, temperature was gradually increased to start the fermentation, after first fermentation a pneumatic press was used to remove the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing for 10 months in French oak with 25% new oak. On the palate the wine was dense, with pronounces tannins and acidity that were already nicely balanced.


Bouchard Aîné & Fils Bouchard Pommard 1er Cru Les Charmots 2012

On the nose the wine showed the typical Pinot-Noir characteristics: black ripe fruit, cherry, a bit of spice, some leather. The vinification process was similar to the previous wine. Fermentation took 22 days and the wine aged for 12 months in French oak with 40% new oak. However the terroir differs from the previous wine and the vines are much older, which lets the wine develop in a different direction. A strong backbone with pronounced tannins, well integrated fruit and acidity gave the wine a velvety, rich mouthfeel. The finish was long and delicious.


Jacques E. Haeringer and L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia

L’Auberge Chez Francois is an extraordinary place in the hills outside of Washington DC. It was founded by François Haeringer in the heart of Washington DC in 1954. Today, L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls is much the same as when François first opened it - family-run, with Jacques’ brother Paul as the restaurant's sommelier and Jacques as Chef de Cuisine. L'Auberge Chez François is on the top 50 list of "Best Overall" Restaurants in US, as voted by users of the Open Table reservation system.

Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Vincent Bottreau and his Maison Bouchard Aîne & Fils Wines at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, USA


Chef Jacques is one of America’s most respected culinary personalities. His menus feature classic Alsatian and French cuisine reinterpreted for American palates. While his father Francois used to say that the chef has to stay in the kitchen, Chef Jacques is very present in the restaurant. He clearly enjoys talking about food and to communicate with his guests. He is great fun to listen to. No wonder that Jacques can be found sharing his cooking secrets on radio and television programs across the country.

Jacques is also a great writer and his articles have been featured in such journals as Gourmet, Wine and Spirits,and Cosmopolitan. Finally, Jacques is the author of “Two for Tonight,” a collection of recipes that inspire romance through food and togetherness, and the “Chez François Cookbook,” the bible of classic Alsatian cuisine featuring some of the restaurant’s most popular recipes.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013  

Leo Hillinger Wines and Alsatian Food with Hillinger’s Michael Hoeffken and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer at L’Auberge Chez François in Virginia, USA

Domaine Weinbach Wines and Alsatian Food with Winemaker Catherine Faller, Alsace, and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer, Virginia

Anton Bauer and his Wines and Chef Jacques E. Haeringer and his Food at L'Auberge Chez François in Great Falls, Virginia, with Klaus Wittauer of Kwselection, USA

Vintage 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Tasting at Ripple in Washington DC, USA – With Tasting Notes by Annette Schiller 

Picture: Wine Tasting with Stefan Traub at Weingut Künstler in Hochheim

While I were drinking wine for dinner at home with my parents, I got serious about wine, when I studied and taught at the University of Mainz in Mainz between 1973 and 1983. I was joined on that path by my then girlfriend and later wife Annette, who I met and got married to in Mainz.

Picture: Gunter Künstler and Annette Schiller in Wiesbaden

Picture: Gunter Künstler and Christian Schiller in Hattenheim

Picture: The Late Franz Künstler and Annette Schiller in Hochheim

Hochheim, where Weingut Franz Künstler is based, is very close to Mainz and my wife and I developed a special relationship with the winemakers of Hochheim, when we lived in Mainz. That was boosted by the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim – a wine brotherhood – whose founding members Franz Künstler, my wife and I are.

Against this background, the visit of Weingut Künstler in Hochheim during the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) was a very special one. Gunter Künstler, who currently runs and owns Weingut Künstler, was not around but in Berlin at a major VDP event.

We were ably hosted by Stefan Traub and we met winemaker Rolf Schlegel in the vineyard during our vineyard visit.

We started out with a walk in the vineyard, just across the street of the Künstler Estate. Stefan then showed us around in the winery, where they were just bottling. The visit ended with an amazing tasting of the Künstler wines.

Hochheim

Hochheim is at the eastern edge of the Rheingau, well know around the world for its Riesling wines. Moving from Hochheim to the west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines in Hochheim to take back to his estate in Virginia.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour

Weingut Franz Künstler

Weingut Franz Künstler is one of Germany’s world class wine producers. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking. The estate is currently owned and run by Gunter Künstler, who took over from his father Franz a number of years ago. Basically, until the late 1980s Franz was in charge and from the early 1990s on, the Künstler wines were made by Gunter. Before founding his own winery in 1965, Franz Künstler worked for other wineries in Hochheim for 15 years.

The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Künstler wines and there is quite a number of Künstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.

Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim (12 hectares). A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Künstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive.

Most recently, Gunter Künstler started a cooperation with a winemaker in Rüdesheim and began to offer wines from vineyards in Rüdesheim. This cooperation, however, is coming to an end.

The vineyard area totals 40 hectares in the Domdechaney, Herrnberg, Hölle, Kirchenstück, Reichestal, Stein and Stielweg (Hochheim) as well as Weiß Erd (Kostheim), excluding vineyards in Rüdesheim. Riesling accounts for the bulk of it (33 hectares) but there is also Spätburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaking: Gunter Künstler, Rolf Schregel
Marketing: Gregor Breuer, Monika Künstler, Stefan Traub
Production: 20000 cases

Pictures: Wine Tasting

The Wines we Tasted

In the USA, Gunter Künstler just changed the importer (I reported about this here: ) and is now part of the Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Portfolio. We tasted the wines on the list below ... and a few more.


2009 Riesling Sekt brut
2013 Hochheimer Stilweg Riesling Alte Reben trocken
2012 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Alte Reben trocken
2013 Kostheimer Weiss Erd Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2013 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2008 Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Erstes Gewächs trocken
2012 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG trocken
2013 Grüner Veltliner trocken
2012 Chardonnay Kalkstein
2013 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Künstler)

Weingut Franz Kuenstler, Hochheim, Rheingau, Joins Terry Theise Portfolio, USA/Germany

Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84

Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany

Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma

World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Picture: Annette Schiller and Friedrich Becker sen.

The winetasting at Weingut Friedrich Becker in Schweigen at the French-German border was the first event of a series of events in the Pfalz during the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014).

Weingut Friedrich Becker is currently run and owned by Friedrich Becker sen. and Friedrich Becker jun. We bumped into the 2 Friedrichs while Friedrich Becker jun. was maneuvering with a fork-lift truck and his father, Friedrich Becker sen., directing him. The tasting was ably conducted by one of the winery staff members.

Weingut Friedrich Becker

Weingut Becker is in Schweigen in the Pfalz, right at the French/German border. In fact, 2/3 of the vineyards of Weingut Friedrich Becker are in an area that today belongs to France.

Weingut Becker is what it is today because of Friedrich Becker sen. He took over from his father in 1973. Right from the start, he stopped selling the grapes to the local co-op and started bottling and selling his own wines. He also started to use barriques for his Spätburgunder, in parallel with Dr. Heger, Fürst, Johner and Meyer-Näkel and others.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Friedrich Beckerin Schweigen

In 2005, Friedrich Becker jun. took over the estate and the winemaking, while his father continues to oversee the outside vineyard work.

Today, Weingut Becker is one of the best producers in the Pfalz and one of the best Pinot Noir producers in Germany. The best Becker Pinot Noirs compare favorably with the best Burgundy has to offer.

The Vineyards

The vineyards totals 18 hectares. Unusually, about 2/3 of the vineyards are located in what is now France.

Becker's top vineyards are the Kammerberg and the Sankt Paul vineyards, both of which have a solid foundation of limestone, Pinot Noir's preferred soil. The Kammerberg, a steep single vineyard near Wissembourg, was recovered by Friedrich Becker sen. in 1966.

The St. Paul vineyard was cultivated in the 14th century by the Cistercians of Wissembourg. The site had since become overgrown but the Beckers uprooted trees and bushes in early 2000 and replanted the vineyard. St. Paul Pinots are released two years and the Kammerberg Pinots three years after the vintage.

Dr. Vino (Wine Blogger in New York, USA): Although his vineyards span two countries, Germany and France, they are really only one kilometer apart. Friedrich, known as Fritz, told me yesterday that the vineyards have been in his family for six generations. During that time, the border has, ahem, changed several times and 1945 left them straddling two sovereign nation states. Today, about two-thirds of Becker’s 35 acres of vineyards are in Alsace with the remainder, as well as, the winery lying in Pfalz, specifically the town of Schweigen.

Today, in an integrated Europe, the border doesn’t really mean much. Fritz can dart between them with ease: “you don’t even notice it” he told me. But he said that for his father it was more of a hassle several decades ago when he would have to show his passport to cross the border each time he wanted to go check sugar levels in the grapes. The French border guards didn’t always make it easy, he said, since they often weren’t from the liminal zone that is the Rhine region and resented Germans still having holdings on the French side.

But is the Becker wine “German” if it is technically grown in France? Yes, Fritz said, thanks to a 1955 accord that grants them and five other vineyards that right. In exchange, the French got water rights to the springs of Schweigen and some lumber rights from the local forest. A deal that turned water into wine; I like.

Pictures: Chatting with Friedrich Becker sen. and Friedrich Becker jun.

Focus on Burgundian Grapes

60% of the vineyards are planted with the Burgundy grapes and Chardonnay; 22 % with Riesling and the rest with Silvaner, Muskateller, Traminer, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, and Portugieser.

In a recent interview, Friedrich Becker jun. was asked: You focus more on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Why the focus on more Burgundian grapes than traditional German varietals?

Friedrich Becker jun.: That’s got a lot to do with our history as our winery is very close to the French border. We are 200 meters from the border of “Today’s France” as my grandfather would say! We are just north of Alsace and curiously, 80 per cent of the vineyards we own are actually in France. It’s regulated by a state treaty between France and Germany so we are allowed to do this as our family has owned the vineyards for more than 200 years and as the Alsace has changed hands so many times in those 200 years this is the outcome! But more than 800 years ago the monks planted the traditional French varietals in the area and this is why we still use them to this day. You know the church has always known the best places to plant grapes and our soils are limestone, much like the soils of Burgundy thus we continue to focus on what grows best.

But you also grow Riesling and many more varieties? Friedrich Becker jun.: Yes, we make wines from other varieties too, but we are talking about very small amounts. The winery is still 70 per cent Pinot Noir, roughly 15 per cent Pinot Gris, 5 per cent Pinot Blanc and then the rest – so it’s really a very small percentage. My grandfather was a co-operative winemaker from 1940 to 1973 as our town was completely destroyed in the war. So when he came home after the war there was nothing left – cellar gone, winery gone, house gone, so they had to start from scratch. The winemakers in our town founded a co-operative to get the business of winemaking going again. So when my father took over in 1973 we were left with all this abundance of varieties. But these days, everything we plant is Pinot Noir.

Tasting

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Friedrich Becker

2013 Weissburgunder trocken Gutswein
2013 Chardonnay trocken Gutswein
2011 "In der Enggasse" Weisser Burgunder trocken Selektionswein
2013 "Kalkmergel" Grauer Burgunder trocken Selektionswein
2011 Spätburgunder "B" trocken Rotwein
2011 Spätburgunder "Schweigener" trocken Rotwein
2011 Spätburgunder "Rechtenbacher" trocken Rotwein
2009 Spätburgunder "Kalkgestein" trocken Rotwein
2011 Spätburgunder "Heydenreich" Lagenrotwein

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Weingut Dr. Heger in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tours by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Karl-Heinz Johner in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Karl-Heinz and Patrick Johner – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

At Maison Trimbach in Alsace with Hubert Trimbach – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: Cornelius Dönnhoff and Stuart Pigott at the Frankfurter Allgemeine Awards Ceremony (Photo: Cornelius Dönnhoff)

A few months ago, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott published in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung his favorite German wines and favorite German wine makers of the year – in German (Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung, 23. November 2014, Nr.47, Seite 54-55). I have already reported about Stuart Pigott’s favorites here:

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

This posting focusses on his selection for Winemaker of the Year: Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff.

Picture: Cornelius Dönnhoff with Sebastian Fürst, Anna-Barbara Acham, Christian L. Stahl, Stuart Pigott, Christian Witte, Alex Gysler and Achim von Oetinger at Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg at the Frankfurter Allgemeine Awards Ceremony (Photo: Cornelius Dönnhoff)

Stuart Pigott

Stuart Pigott was born in the UK and Berlin-based for the past 20 years or so. During this period, he emerged as the leading German wine writer, mostly writing in German, and focusing on German wine. Notably, he now regularly writes for the specialist magazines Feinschmecker and Weingourmet as well as the Sunday edition of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. He also produced a TV series on German wine.

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

A few years ago, Stuart Pigott started to spend a lot of time in New York City, turning his attention to the global world of Riesling. His first major output of the move to New York City is a major book about Riesling in the world, which was published in June 2014: The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story.

If you wan to follow him: Stuart Pigott Riesling Global

See also:
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Winzer des Jahres – Winemaker of the Year: Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut H. Dönnhoff, Oberhausen/Nahe

Stuart Pigott’s Winemaker of the Year is Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe region. Cornelius Dönnhoff, the son of Riesling legend Hellmut Dönnhoff has been at the helm of this prestigious German Riesling producer for a couple of years.

At first sight, this award should not come as a surprise. Snooth, for example, recently listed Weingut H. Dönnhoff as one of the top 10 Riesling producers in the world. At the same time, however, the highly regarded Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland deleted Weingut Dönnhoff from the prestigious 5/5 grapes group in its 2015 edition. The rumor was that the demotion was triggered by the handing over of the primary responsibility for the wines from father Hellmut Dönnhoff to son Cornelius Dönnhoff. Stuart Pigott argues – and I fully agree with him - that the demotion was completely unjustified: "To make a winery famous is a great job, but to take over a world-famous wine estate from his father and keep it at the highest level is much more difficult. And this is exactly what Cornelius Dönnhoff has achieved to do in an impressive way. His dry and sweet Riesling wines are among the best white wines in the world.”

Picture: Liebling des Jahres 2014 (Photo: Cornelius Dönnhoff)

Stuart Pigott wrote about it (in German): Nun wurde vor kurzer Zeit bekannt, dass Helmuts Sohn Cornelius (oben in Central Otago/Neuseeland) schon seit einigen Jahren hinter den Dönnhoff-Weinen steckt. Seit 2007 ist er für den Keller des Guts und viel mehr verantwortlich. Lange haben viele Mitglieder der deutschen Weinszene diesen Fakt verdrängt, weil sie an ihrem „heiligen Helmut“ festhalten wollten. Nach und nach mussten sie die tatsächliche Situation im Gut wahrnehmen und das war offensichtlich ein ziemlicher Schock. Aus der Sicht vieler Gegner ist Cornelius Dönnhoff das Problem, weil er nie wie sein Vater werden kann. Das ist natürlich gehässiger Unfug!

Auch „sachliche“ Argumente werden von manchen Gegner vorgebracht. Sie deuten mit dem großen Zeigefinger auf die angeblich glatten und/oder technokratischen Dönnhoff-Rieslinge. Das starke Wachstum des Guts seit der Jahrhundertwende wird als Bestätigung für diese Behauptung genommen. Doch nur wenn man gewollt die Dönnhoff-Weine im Vergleich mit misslungenen „Natural Wines“, die nur stinkig und ruppig schmecken, stellt, wirken sie „glatt“ oder „technokratisch“, bzw. reintönig und geschliffen. In der gegenwärtigen Weinszene gilt „Authentizität“ über Alles, auch wenn es stinkt und beißt! Urig auf Teufel komm raus waren die Dönnhoff-Rieslinge aber nie. Feinheit und Eleganz sind die Ziele von Cornelius, genauso wie sie es für seinen Vater Helmut waren.

Der Hauptunterschied zwischen den Weinen von Vater und Sohn erwächst aus der Klimaerwärmung. Während der 1970er, ‚80er und weit in den ‚90er Jahre musste Helmut um reife Trauben kämpfen. Heutzutage ist das aber kein großes Problem mehr. Das ist der Grund, warum die Weine von Cornelius oft etwas voller und einen Tick weicher in der Säure schmecken als die seines Vater. Aber auch dieser Umstand ist für die Gegner schlichtweg falsch; für sie muss Alles beim Alten bleiben.

Weingut Dönnhoff

The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region over 200 years ago, and after establishing a modest farm slowly evolved into a full-fledged wine estate. Helmut Dönnhoff took over from his father in 1971. Since 2007, Cornelius Dönnhoff has taken the lead in making the wines at Weingut Dönnhoff.

Picture: Cornelius and Helmut Dönnhoff and Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch, at the Second International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau in Germany

Their holdings represent some of the best in the Nahe and all of Germany:

Oberhäuser Leistenberg, the oldest vineyard held by the family, has slate soils and produces fruity wines with elegant acidity.

The Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg is a very old site with porphyry soil.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, perhaps the most famous of all the Nahe vineyards, is a slate vineyard with many conglomerates of volcanic rocks, mostly porphyry and melaphyr.

The Oberhäuser Brücke, the smallest vineyard in the Nahe, is a tiny parcel saddled on the Nahe River that Dönnhoff owns in entirety. The Brücke has grey slate covered by loess-clay and the vines ripen even later here than in the Hermannshöhle due to large diurnal temperature swings along the river.

The Norheimer Dellchen is a steep terraced vineyard in a rocky hollow with porphyry and slate soil. Norheimer Kirscheck sits on a steep south slope of slate soil and produces delicately fruity wines with spice and race.

The Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl vineyard has perfect drainage due its topsoil of pebbles over loam soil; characteristic are wines with a mineralic elegance. Due to the water table that flows beneath the vineyard’s soil the Krötenpfhul has always been farmed organically, even before it was held by Dönnhoff.

Pictures: Helmut Doennhoff Receiving the Ombiasy Group. Annette Schiller’s 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy included a tasting at Weingut Doennhoff with Helmut Dönnhoff.

For more on the Wine Tours by ombiasy, see:

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Although the Nahe is a dry region, the vineyards are not watered as to encourage deep rooted vines. The soil is covered with organic material like straw and compost to preserve water and to avoid evaporation and erosion in heavy rains. The vines are all grown on wire frames, low to the ground to benefit from the warmth of the stoney topsoil, and at a density of approx. 6000 vines per hectare.

80% of Dönnhoff's of vineyard holdings grow Riesling grapes, with the remaining 20% Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Grapes are always picked by hand over 2-3 passes through each vineyardand and are pressed as soon as possible – within 3 hours of picking. Wines are fermented in traditional German casks (1200 L Stückfass and 2400 L Doppelsrück) as well as stainless steel.

•Vineyard area: 25 hectares
•Annual production: 17,000 cases

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

New Generation – The 111 Best Young German Winemakers (A Listing by Stuart Pigott)

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, at the Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Rieslingfeier is an annual two-day event in New York City that celebrates German Riesling. The cornerstone event is the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner.

Inspired by Daniel Johnnes’ famous Burgundy fête “La Paulée,” it is very likely the greatest German wine "BYOB" dinner in the world, with both winemakers and guests bringing special bottles from their cellars to share.

Side events, specialized seminars and retail tastings round out the yearly Rieslingfeier program. Rieslingfeier is orchestrated by Stephen Bitterolf of the vom Boden wine importing company.

This year, Rieslingfeier took place on the Friday, January 30 and Saturday, January 31. 11 winemakers attended, all belonging to the elite of German winemakers, including world stars like Klaus Peter Keller, Egon Müller and Johannes Leitz.

This posting is part of a series covering the 2015 Rieslingfeier; it focuses on the Gala Dinner.

Here is a list of all postings:

Coming-up: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA
The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City– Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
The Gala Dinner of the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Lunch at Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York City, USA 

Most of the photos are mine. I also used a few photos which Roman Niewodniczanski of Weingut Van Volxem put on his facebook page. Thank you very much Roman.

Rieslingfeier (Rieslingfire) Gala Dinner 2015

While a warehouse complex went up in flames next door to the restaurant and hundreds of New York City firefighters were fighting against the fire and the freezing temperatures, the most spectacular Riesling Party of North America took place at the trendy Reynard in the Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn, on Saturday, January 31. About 100 wine freaks made the pilgrimage from across the country to NYC to be with 11 top German producers, leading wine and food journalists, importers, and sommeliers to enjoy a casual dinner and Riesling rarities. In fact, earlier in the day, there was the real possibilty that the Rieslingfeier would become a Rieslingfire and needed to be cancelled or moved to another location.

Picture: Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn - Rieslingfeier and Rieslingfire

There were 11 tables with 1 winemaker and 10 guests at each table. The five course meal was customized by Reynard’s Chef Sean Rembold to pair with dry and off-dry Riesling. The wine service was presided over by Rieslingfeier Chef Sommelier Raj Vaidya along with a group of the country's top sommeliers.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf Opening the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

My wife Annette Schiller was sitting at the table of Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, while I was sitting at the table of Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz. At each table, about 20 wines were served. At my table, Paul Grieco (Hearth / Terroirs) and Juliette Pope (Gramercy Tavern) were pouring the wines.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner - the Tables of Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Klaus Peter  Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Mosel (Saar), Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, Mosel (Saar) and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Rheingau

All the wines were outstanding, but some of them were out of this world. You could walk to other tables and taste the wines poured there. Guests and winemakers also walked around and shared the wines with other people.

Picture: David Schildknecht and Annette Schiller

Picture: Johannes and Barbara Selbach and Annette Schiller

Picture: Annette Schiller, Julia Keller, Klaus Peter Keller

Picture: Germany-based Retailer Timo Seiwert and Klaus Peter and Julia Keller

Picture: Egon Müller Pouring

Picture: Klaus Peter Keller Pouring G Max 2012

Picture: Dan Weber (Schatzi Wines), Eva Fricke, Johannes Leitz, Paul Grieco

Picture: Egon Müller and Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem

Picture: Volker Donabaum (Importer), Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar)and Paul Grieco

Picture: Somlier Aldo Sohm (Le Bernadin/Aldo Sohm Wine Bar) and Christian Schiller

Reception

Picture: Reception

Dinner


FLUKE TARTARE Capers, Mustard, Cured Egg Yolk


PICKLED HERRING Potato, Crème Fraiche, Trout Roe


WILD MUSHROOM DUMPLINGS Prosciutto, Pea Shoots, Horseradish


GUINEA HEN Stuffed Cabbage, Golden Raisin


BIO URCHRÜTER, COW, CH, PERSILLE DE CHEVRE, GOAT, FR, Chestnuts, Honey, Black Pepper


Rieslingfeier Charity Auction

This year, there was for the first time a live charity auction during the dinner, with all proceeds going to benefit City Harvest. Each attending winemaker contributed a very special bottle. The wines were organized into three lots.

Pictures: The Auction

Lot 1: 40 Years of Moselle, 1959-1999: 1999 Falkenstein Euchariusberg Auslese, 1983 Zilliken Rausch Beerenauslese, 1976 Selbach-Oster Domprobst Auslese, 1959 Immich-Batterieberg Auslese

Lot 2: Rheingau, Ruwer and Saar: 2002 Leitz Kirchenpfad Beerenauslese, 1999 Karthäuserhof Auslese #23, 1993 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Beerenauslese

Lot 3: Dry Riesling Rarities: 2008 Von Winning Jesuitgarten, 2006 Keller G-Max, 2006 Eva Fricke Krone Auslese Trocken, 2011 Van Volxem Gottesfuss 1.5L

Lot 1 was auction off for US$ 3400, Lot 2 for US$ 2600 and Lot 3 for US$ 2400.

Winemakers

Picture: Standing: Johannes Weber, Hofgut Falkenstein, Mosel (Saar), Christian Vogt, Weingut Karthäuserhof, Mosel (Ruwer), Klaus Peter  Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mose,Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, Mosel (Saar)
Sitting: Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Julia Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
Eva Fricke, Weingut Eva Fricke, Rheingau
Not on the Picture: Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut Von Winning, Pfalz, Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Mosel (Saar)

Sommeliers

Picture: The Sommeliers

Rieslingfeier Chef Sommelier Raj Vaidya (Daniel), Andrew Algren (Alinea, Chicago), Ryan Arnold (LEYE, Chicago), Bryn Birkhahn (Pearl & Ash), Michelle Biscieglia (Blue Hill), Levi Dalton (I'll Drink to That), Michael Engelmann (The Modern), Raphael Ginsburg (Ai Fiori), Paul Grieco (Hearth / Terroirs), Michael Madrigale (Bar Boulud / Boulud Sud), Laura Maniec (Corkbuzz), Thomas Pastuszak (NoMad), Juliette Pope (Gramercy Tavern), Eric Railsback (Lieu Dit Winery), Jarred Roth (Riverpark), Michael Scaffidi (Union Square Cafe), Amanda Smeltz (Roberta's and Blanca), Michele Smith (Brooklyn Fare), Aldo Sohm (Le Bernardin / Aldo Sohm Wine Bar), Jeff Taylor (Betony), Mia Van de Water (North End Grill), Dustin Wilson (Eleven Madison Park), Hristo Zisovski (AltaMarea)

Stephen Bitterolf

Rieslingfeier was founded in 2012 by Stephen Bitterolf, a passionate advocate for Germany's culture of winemaking. He was the Wine Director at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York where he helped develop one of the largest German wine programs in the country before founding his own import company, vom Boden.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf, Johannes Leitz, Eva Fricke

Picture: Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), David Weitzenhoffer (Importer) and Stephen Bitterolf

OmbiasyPR and Wine Tours

Annette Schiller, who organizes wines tours (ombiasyPR and WineTours), and Christian Schiller, who blogs on schiller-wine, joined the 2015 celebration of German Riesling. We were happy to meet the participating German elite winemakers. Many of them we know personally. Some of them we call our friends.

The visit of Weingut Selbach-Oster was one of the highlights of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014). The 3 forthcoming Germany Wine Tours in 2015 include tastings with Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Klaus Peter and Julia Keller, Weingut Keller and Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in addition to many other elite wine producers, including some not yet well known outside of Germany.

See:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Johannes Leitz and his Wife at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Picture: Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014 at Weingut Selbach-Oster with Johannes Selbach

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, with Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in Frankfurt, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Coming-up: Wine & Art Tour to Saale-Unstrut - Saxony - Franken - Württemberg: Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (June 11 - June 20, 2015)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim– Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany   

Picture: At Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel with Sandra Kühn-Quenter

Annette Schiller likes to include “green” winemakers in her Germany tours in order to also show this side of German winemaking culture. In general, Germany is a rather “green” society, with even a Green Party in German parliaments and governments. The Prime Minister of the State Government of Baden Württemberg, for instance, is a very popular State prime Minister and member of the Green Party.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn

Peter Jakob Kühn is clearly one of Germany’s star winemakers when it comes to making wine with an ecological mindset. He was not around when we visited (but was with other winemakers we visited at about the same time, including Gunter Künstler, H.O. Spanier, Caroline Spanier-Gillot, to name a few, in Berlin at an important VDP presentation). But Sandra Kühn-Quenter, of the next (12.) generation, was around and she ably led the winetasting. She graduated – as her brother Peter Bernhard Kühn, who is taking the lead in the 12. Generation at Weingut Klaus Peter Kühn – from the prestigious Geisenheim University with a Master in Winemaking. At least for now, she stepped a bit back to take care of her 2 children Johann and Philipp.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn

Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn

Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn is in Oestrich in the Rheingau. Founded by Jacobus Kühn in 1786, the estate is run by Peter Jakob and Angela Kühn. They are the eleventh generation of winemakers in the Kühn family. The twelve generation – Peter Bernhard, Sandra and Katrin – are about to take over.

The Kühns own 20 hectares of vineyard in the Doosberg and Lenchen (Oestrich), St. Nikolaus (Mittelheim), as well as in the Hendelberg and Jungfer (Hallgarten). The vineyards are planted on natural south-facing slopes along the Right Bank of the Rhein at an altitude of 70 meters, and are well protected against the cool borealis by the foothills of the Taunus Mountains. Riesling accounts for 90%, with the rest accounted for by Spaetburgunder.

Pictures: Sekt Reception with Sandra Kühn-Quenter

Peter Jakob and Angela Kühn: “Our wine estate was founded around the start of the 18th century and remains a family business to this day. Run in the 11th generation by us, Peter Jakob and Angela Kühn – our three children already work alongside us, continuing the family tradition. Only by maintaining our philosophy and through the knowledge that quality and sustainability are inseparable, has our winery survived through the centuries. On this basis we decided in 2004, to achieve a certification as ecological, biodynamic winery. The expectation we set in our own quality also manifests itself in our memberships in the VDP (Prädikat Wine Estates), Demeter, the association for organic agriculture based on anthroposophical principles, and the association of international biodynamical wineries: “La Renaissance des Appellations“.

Nothing determines the future quality of the wine as thoroughly as the work processes that take place in the vineyards throughout the year. The most important task of these processes is, to strengthen the vines through our biodynamical work in such a way, so that they can grow healthily and stress-free. The basis for this is provided by eco-dynamic agriculture: plentiful varieties of cover crops create a healthy environment, organic compost enriches and structures the soil, and herbal extracts strengthen the vines. Additionally our workflow is organized according to natural biorhythms. That is as sound as a strong heartbeat and maintains the living balance of our vineyards. For lively wines can only emerge from vital vines – and that you can experience in the flavor.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Sandra Kühn-Quenter

On our estate we work wholeheartedly and hands-on, on the manufacture of natural, unpolluted wines of top quality. Ranging from the classical ripening process in the “Rheingauer Halbstück” (600 litre barrel) to wines that mature in amphoras – our range is wide.

All our wines ferment spontaneously on their own yeast and are given plenty of time to unfold their natural character. The wide spread practice to speed up fermentation artificially, or to „correct“ wines through a variety of means, is inconceivable for us. We count on a selectively harvested, healthy grape base and total calm during the maturing process.

Pictures: Tasting with Sandra Kühn-Quenter

What Others say about Weingut Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn

Gault Millau 2013: “In its current 2013 edition, the wine guide Gault Millau awards us four out of five possible grapes. A wonderful confirmation of our continuous striving for top-quality: “from basic to ambrosial sweet … the Kühn family have served us with the most homogenous wine collection in the whole of the Rheingau.”

Eichelmann 2013 - Deutschlands Weine: In Gerhard Eichelmann`s wine guide we have for years been rated amongst the best winemakers in Germany with his top rating of 5 stars.

Pictures: Sandra Kühn-Quenter Explaining Bio-dynamic Winemaking

Der Feinschmecker 2013: The prestigious Journal „Der Feinschmecker“ now awards us with 4 of 5 possible “Gourmet-Points”.

Wein-Plus.eu: In the online wine guide “Wein-Plus.eu” our vintage 2011 is nominated as the “Wein-Plus collection of the year”.”

Tasting Wines

We went through a series of wines.


2011 Riesling Brut Sekt
2013 Jacobus VDP.Gutswein
2013 Oestrich Quarzir Riesling VDP.Ortswein
2013 Klosterberg Riesling VDP.Erste Lage
2011 Doosberg Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG
2012 Sankt Nicolaus Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage GG
2013 Lenchen Riesling VDP.Grosse Lage Beerenauslese – Interestingly, this wine from the 2013 vintage was available as Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese and Beerenauslese

Kühn Wines in the USA

The Kühn web site lists 2 sources for their wines in the USA: Domaine Select Wine Estates, which has an impressive list of Kühn wines (with detailed information) on their web site, and Petit Pois Corporation, which has a shorter list with mainly sweet-style wines on their web site. A good source for Kühn wines is also Moore Brothers in New York, which currently shows the following 3 wines on their web site. I am copying their wine notes.

Hallgarten Riesling Rheinschiefer Trocken Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn 2013 US$ 27

Peter Kühn, who farms eighteen hectares of gently sloping clay-limestone vineyards in Oestrich, Hallgarten, and Mittelheim, represents the eleventh generation of Kühns to grow wine in the Rheingau. He was already a leader of the “Rheingau Renaissance” of the 1990s, having created one of the top estates in Germany, when he completed the transformation to organic viticulture in 2004. Four years ago he became a member of Demeter, the organization that certifies biodynamic farms, and today is the single most rigorous practitioner of biodynamic viticulture I know in Germany. From Peter and Angela's small holdings in the Hendelberg vineyard in the nearby village of Hallgarten, the wine shows dense layered aromas, layered with the scents of slate, and a refined mouthfeel. Peter says it is "like the transition from Classical to Romantic - a 'Schubert' for drinking."

2006 Peter Jakob Kuhn Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Beerenauslese (half bottle) US$ 135

The Rhine turns westward just past Mainz, flowing along a 30-kilometer crescent-shaped stretch of warm, southerly exposed vineyards that have been a center of German wine production since Roman times. It was in the Rheingau that Riesling's potential was first realized and developed. Peter and Angela Kühn, at their biodynamically farmed 15-hectare estate in Oestreich, honor this tradition with finely honed Riesling of the first order. Lenchen is located a stone's throw from the fabled Schloss Vollrads, and benefits from similar exposure and soil (rich clay and gravelly loam). The finest parcels lie nearest to the Pfingstbach, a tiny creek running down the hill through a shallow hollow that provides just enough moisture to encourage healthy botrytis on the ripe clusters of Riesling grown there. Peter Kühn's monumental Beerenauslese is a spectacular miracle of nature, combining lush tropical fruit aromatics with the characteristic lime citrus of the best Oestricher wines.

2013 Peter Jakob Kuhn Riesling Trocken Jacobus US$ 23

In the glass, this sapid dry Riesling has a limpid, deep yellow-green color, with an attractive nose that suggests lemon grass, kaffir lime, walnut oil, and freshly sliced green apples. On the palate the wine is generous, dry, and refreshing, unfolding like a peacock’s tail with flavors that echo the nose, adding white grapefruit, dried honeycomb, lemon verbena, and juniper, all seasoned with a combination of palpable saline minerality and mouthwatering acidity, depth, and cut.

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Sandra for a great tasting.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Künstler– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)