Quantcast
Channel: schiller-wine
Viewing all 2244 articles
Browse latest View live

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Achim von Oetinger, Weingut Achim von Oetinger, at Schloss Johannisberg - Achim von Oetinger is Stuart Pigott's Discovery of the Year 2014

A few weeks ago, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott published in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung his favorite German wines and favorite German wine makers of the year – in German. Below please find his list of favorites. I am also adding part of his comments (in German) as well as my comments (in English).

For last years' lists, see:
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2013)
Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)
Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011) 

Stuart Pigott

Stuart Pigott was born in the UK and Berlin-based for the past 20 years or so. During this period, he emerged as the leading German wine writer, mostly writing in German, and focusing on German wine. Notably, he now regularly writes for the specialist magazines Feinschmecker and Weingourmet as well as the Sunday edition of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. He also produced a TV series on German wine.

Picture: Stuart Pigott and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC

A few years ago, Stuart Pigott started to spend a lot of time in New York City, turning his attention to the global world of Riesling. His first major output of the move to New York City is a major book about Riesling in the world, which was published in June 2014: The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story.

If you wan to follow him: Stuart Pigott Riesling Global

See also:
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USAIf you want to follow him: Stuart Pigott Riesling Global

Stuart Pigott’s Favorites of 2014

Winzer des Jahres – Winemaker of the Year: Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut H. Dönnhoff, Oberhausen/Nahe

Stuart Pigott: Ein Weingut weltberühmt zu machen ist eine große Aufgabe, aber ein weltberühmtes Weingut vom Vater zu übernehmen und weiter auf dem höchsten Niveau zu führen ist sehr viel schwieriger. Genau das ist Cornelius Dönnhoff auf beeindruckende Weise gelungen. Er ist seit 2007 für den Keller des Familienweinguts verantwortlich; sowohl seine trockenen als auch seine süßen Riesling-Weine sind mindestens so gut wie die seines Vaters Helmut und gehören zu den besten Weißweinen der Welt. Auch aus dem schwierigen Jahrgang 2013 glänzen die trockenen Riesling „Großen Gewächse“ ebenso wie der wesentlich günstigere Gutsriesling. Wie sein Vater ist Cornelius von den enorm vielfältigen natürlichen Aromen der Riesling-Weine aus den Steillagen der mittleren Nahe fasziniert. Für beide Generationen geht Feinheit vor Power, aber Cornelius arbeitet in einer Situation, die inzwischen stark von der Klimaerwärmung geprägt ist, und seine Weine sind konsequenterweise ein wenig kräftiger im Körper und weicher in der Säure als die seines Vaters. Das sorgt für Kritik, wovon er sich aber nicht irritieren lässt. Jeder Riesling-Wein dieses Weinguts ist zu empfehlen; besonders markant sind die Weine aus der Lage Felsenberg (Porphyrboden), wohingegen die Weine aus den Lagen Dellchen und Hermannshöhle (Schieferböden) hochfein und subtil ausfallen (sowohl trockene „Große Gewächse“ als auch süße Spätlesen).

Picture: Managing Director Christian Witte of Weingut Schloss Johannisberg and Weingut G.H. von Mumm, Owner  Annegret Reh-Gartner, Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt, and Winemaker Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff, at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Christian Schiller: To include Cornelius Dönnhoff in his list, was obviously a reaction to the downgrading of Weingut Dönnhoff in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. Generally considered one of the best Riesling producers in the world, to the surprise of many , including myself and Stuart Pigott, Weingut Dönnhoff lost its 5 (out of 5) grapes status in the 2015 Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. The rumor was that the demotion was triggered by the handing over of the primary responsibility for the wines from father Hellmut Dönnhoff to son Cornelius Dönnhoff. Stuart argues that the demotion was completely unjustified: "To make a winery famous is a great job, but to take over a world-famous wine estate from his father and keep it at the highest level is much more difficult. And this is exactly what Cornelius Dönnhoff has achieved to do in an impressive way. His dry and sweet Riesling wines are among the best white wines in the world.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff

See:
 Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012
Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Sommelier des Jahres – Sommelier of the Year: Marco Franzelin vom Restaurant „Vendôme“ im Schlosshotel Bensberg, Bergisch Gladbach

Aufsteiger-Winzer des Jahres – Rising Star of the Year: Anna-Barbara Acham, Weingut Acham-Magin, Forst/Pfalz

Stuart Pigott: Nicht alle begabten Winzer oder Winzerinnen streben nach Ruhm. Anna-Barbara Acham hat sich stattdessen lange Jahre und intensiv der Perfektionierung der Riesling-Weine ihres Pfälzer Heimatorts gewidmet. Als sie damit während der achtziger Jahre im Familienweingut begann, ging es dem Winzerdorf Forst an der Weinstraße nicht besonders gut. Die Kluft zwischen dem großen Ruf des bei Touristen beliebten Ortes und der tatsächlichen Qualität, die sich im Glas der Besucher fand, war oft ausgesprochen groß. Obwohl sie recht schnell für einige sehr gute Weine in der Branche Lob und Anerkennung erfuhr - trockener Riesling war vom ersten Tag an ihre große Wein-Liebe -, war Anna-Barbara Acham damit nicht zufrieden, sondern betrachtete dies nur als kleinen Anfang auf ihrem ambitionierten Weg. Immer weiter trieb sie ihre unermüdliche Suche nach dem Ausdruck im Wein, der Forst im 19. Jahrhundert berühmt gemacht hat. Im Zuge dessen stellte sie das kleine Weingut im Jahr 2005 auf ökologischen Weinbau um, wodurch ihre Weine deutlich an Charakter gewannen.

Winzer-Entdeckung des Jahres – Discovery of the Year: Achim von Oetinger, Weingut zum Jungen Oetinger

Stuart Pigott: Neue Winzer-Talente assoziiert man nicht unbedingt mit dem traditionslastigen Rheingau, sondern eher mit dem aufstrebenden Weinbaugebiet Rheinhessen am gegenüberliegenden Rheinufer. Doch Achim von Oetinger beweist, dass auch der historische Rheingau sich neu erfinden kann. Mit den jüngsten Jahrgängen hat Achim von Oetinger einen neuen Rheingau-Riesling-Typ entwickelt, der ansprechende, aber keinesfalls laute Fruchtaromatik mit lebhafter Säurefrische und Tiefe verbindet. Die Arbeit an der neuen Weinstilistik ist noch nicht am Ende, aber seine trockenen „Großen Gewächse“ aus dem Jahr 2013 gehören sämtlich zur Jahrgangsspitze am Rhein. Von Achim von Oetinger werden wir noch viel hören.

Christian Schiller: A winemaker from the Rheingau is the Discovery of the Year! Not so long ago, people were often talking about “the underperforming Rheingau”, but recently are more talking about the “comeback of the Rheingau”. One of the dynamic, young winemakers, who is contributing to this change in perception, is Achim von Oetinger, Weingut von Oetinger, with his 12 hectares in Erbach.

Stuart Pigott tweeted from the 2014 Grosses Gewächs Pre-release Tasting in Wiesbaden, Germany: ‏@PigottRiesling: discovery! Congrats to Achim von Oetinger(Erbach/Rheingau) for 3 delicious dry #Riesling GGs. Prinz, Weil + Kuenstler also top!

Achim von Oetinger presented 3 wines: Marcobrunn, Siegelsberg and Hohenrain. I liked in particular the Marcobrunn: superb balance of fruit and acid, with some minerality and a very long finish. Unfortunately, the wines of Achim von Oetinger are not available in the US. Achim says, he is too small for exporting to the US. We have to convince him of the opposite. He can do it!

Picture: Achim von Oettinger, Weingut von Oettinger, Eltville-Erbach,  Michael Staedter, Weingut Chat Sauvage, Johannisberg, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Wiesbaden

Süßwein des Jahres – Sweet Wine of the Year: 2013er Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese „Grünlack

Stuart Pigott: Kein Weingut in Deutschland hat eine längere ununterbrochene Tradition für Süßweine als Schloss Johannisberg im Rheingau, nämlich seit 1775. Doch ist auch beim Wein Tradition keinesfalls Garantie für hohe Qualität. Die kommt nur zustande, wenn Menschen das Potential der Weinberge durch perfekte und daher aufwendige Weinbergpflege in hochwertige Trauben umsetzen, diese Qualität dann im Keller bewahren und sich langsam entfalten lassen. Christian Witte und seinem Team ist genau das mit ihrem 2013er Riesling Spätlese „Grünlack“ gelungen; dieser Wein spiegelt tatsächlich voll und ganz die Süßwein-Tradition des Hauses wider. Hier sind nicht nur helle, fruchtige Aromen wie Pfirsich, Zitrus und frische Ananas zu spüren, sondern auch dunkle, würzige Noten. Das Spiel zwischen diesen beiden Seiten im „Hintergrund“ des Weins unterstreicht das „vordergründige“ Spiel zwischen natürlicher Süße und Säure: Das Ergebnis ist ein nahezu perfektes Beispiel dieser prototypisch deutschen Art von Riesling, die inzwischen so viele Nachahmer überall auf dem Planeten Wein gefunden hat.

Picture: At Schloss Johannisberg with Estate Director Christian Witte

Christian Schiller: Weingut Schloss Johannisberg has been making wine for over 900 years. The winery is most noted for its claim to have "discovered" the Spätlese wine, late harvest wine. This, however, is contested by the Hungarians; they claim that the late harvest was discovered in the Tokaji region.

Wine making in the Schloss Johannisberg vineyards started long before the castle was build, during the reign of Charlemagne. The hill became known as Johannisberg (John's mountain) in the 1100s, when a Romanesque basilica in honor of John the Baptist was built on the hill. The Chateau that we see today was built in the 1700s by the Prince-Abbot of Fulda. In 1720 he planted Riesling vines, making it the oldest Riesling vineyard in the world.

The estate changed hands several times during the Napoleonic Wars, but in 1816 the Holy Roman Emperor, Francis II, gave it to the Austrian statesman Prince von Metternich to thank him for his great services. The estate is in the hands of the Oetker family today.

The vineyard Schloss Johannisberg is also a single vineyard designation (Einzellage) in its own right. Like the Steinberg, it is one of a handful historic German vineyards which do not have to display a village name on the label. Thus, the vineyard designation on the label is Schloß Johannisberger. There are currently about 35 hectares (86 acres) of vineyard.

The Oetker family also owns the renown Weingut G.H. von Mumm, also in Johannisberg. Weingut G.H. von Mumm is jointly managed with Weingut Schloss Johannisberg by Christian Witte and his team.

See:
A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany

Rotwein des Jahres – Red Wine of the Year: 2012er Schlossberg Spätburgunder „Großes Gewächs“, Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadt/Franken

Stuart Pigott: Weinbau ist eine langwierige Sache, die Pflege der Reben oft eine generationsübergreifende Aufgabe. Im Februar 2004 kauften Paul und Monika Fürst 1,3 Hektar steilste Weinberge in der historischen Terrassenlage Klingenberger Schlossberg, wo sie zwei Drittel der Reben roden mussten, weil ihr Zustand so schlecht war. Mit Hilfe von Sohn Sebastian wurde 2004 und 2006 mühsam neu gepflanzt. Dieser Wein stammt jedoch vorwiegend aus dem einem Drittel an erhaltenen alten Spätburgunder-Reben im ummauerten Kernbereich der Lage. Der 2012er Schlossberg besticht durch sensationelle Seidigkeit; die Trauben haben optimale Reife erreicht, so dass die große Kraft des Weins nahezu perfekt im Hintergrund bleibt. Oft wird bei jungen Weinen dieser Sorte die Seidigkeit von den Gerbstoffen komprimiert. Doch Spätburgunder-Rotweine mit wenig Gerbstoff schmecken zwar weich, aber kaum spannend. Sebastian Fürst ist im Klingenberger Schlossberg die Quadratur dieses Spätburgunder-Kreises gelungen. Zu beziehen ist der Wein unter anderem bei „Wein & Glas“ in Berlin.

Picture: Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Guiseppe Lauria, Gault Millau, at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau (2014)

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Christian Schiller: There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Beste Preis-Leistung des Jahres – Best Price Quality Ratio of the Year: 2013er Weißburgunder trocken, Weingut Gysler, Alzey-Weinheim/Rheinhessen

Stuart Pigott: Obwohl 2013 in Deutschland eine Reihe beeindruckender Spitzenweine gewachsen sind, war dies alles andere als ein toller Jahrgang für Alltagsweine. Meist fehlt den Weinen eine stimmige Balance, weil sie zu säurebetont sind oder sie gelegentlich, wenn die Säure im Keller zu stark reduziert wurde, zu weich und konturlos schmecken. Die Vielschichtigkeit und Eleganz von Alex Gyslers Basisweinen 2013 war eine große Seltenheit für diese Preiskategorie. Obwohl jeder seiner trockenen Weißweine sehr gelungen ist, sticht der Weißburgunder mit seiner komplexen, feinen Art noch hervor. Was will man mehr von einem Alltagswein, der auch im Handel deutlich unter zehn Euro kostet? Übrigens handelt es sich um einen Wein aus biodynamischem (Demeter-)Anbau, was den Preis noch erstaunlicher macht, da diese Art des Weinbaus weit aufwendiger ist als die konventionelle. 

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Alexander Gysler, Weingut Gysler, in Washington DC

Christian Schiller: Alexander Gysler is on Stuart Pigott’s list “New Generation – The 111 Best Young German Winemakers”. His wines are available in the USA through Michael Skurnik/Terry Theise.

See:
New Generation – The 111 Best Young German Winemakers (A Listing by Stuart Pigott)

Trockener Weißwein des Jahres – Dry White Wine of the Year: 2013er Ohligsberg Riesling „Großes Gewächs“, Weingut Reinhold Haart, Piesport

Stuart Pigott: Auf Grund seiner ausgeprägten Säure ist 2013 kein Jahrgang der Kuschel- oder Schmuseweine, sondern einer, in dem Größe mit Spannung verbunden ist. Wo die Säure allerdings erfolgreich gebändigt wurde, verbindet sich diese geschmackliche Spannung mit großartigen Aromen und viel Kraft. Johannes Haarts 2013er Ohligsberg Riesling „Großes Gewächs“ besticht mit ausgeprägtem Zitrusduft, einem Hauch exotischer Früchte sowie konzentrierter, rassiger Brillanz. Dieser trockene Riesling aus noch recht unbekannter Spitzenlage an der Mosel ist ein Paradebeispiel der positiven Seite von 2013; leider gab es davon nur ein „Fuder“-Holzfass (1000 Liter). Diese Knappheit ist ebenfalls typisch für das Jahr. Wie der Ohligsberg Riesling Spätlese trocken von Johannes’ Vater Theo (1993) wird auch dieses Meisterwerk noch nach zwanzig Jahren beeindrucken.

Christian Schiller: Without question a surprise as Weingut Reinhold Haart is not really known for its ultra-premium dry wines, but very much known for its outstanding fruity-sweet and noble-sweet Rieslings. In general, the Mosel region is more a marginal region when it comes to ultra-premium dry German wines. Other regions - Nahe, Pfalz, Rheingau, Rheinhessen - are the leaders for ultra-premium dry wines in Germany. 

See also:
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

Innovation des Jahres – Innovation of the Year: 2013 Scheurebe trocken „Zweimännerwein“, Winzerhof Stahl, Auernhofen

Stuart Pigott: Der Name Christian Stahl ist eng mit der oft als banal abgetanen Müller-Thurgau-Traube verbunden, und das mit gutem Recht. Sein trockener Müller-Thurgau aus der Lage Hasennest ist einer der ausdrucksstärksten und originellsten Weine aus dieser Traube nicht nur in Deutschland, sondern auf der ganzen Welt. Stahl ist aber immer auf der Suche nach neuen Aufgaben und Herausforderungen. Trockene Scheurebe aus Franken hat einen gewissen Ruf innerhalb des Gebiets, ist aber außerhalb noch ziemlich verkannt. Das hat Christian Stahl genauso stark gereizt wie die geschmackliche Besonderheiten der Sorte. 2011 hat er erstmals diesen neuen, hocharomatischen - von weißen Johannisbeeren bis zu reifer Grapefruit - und extrem saftigen trockenen Weißwein erzeugt und mit dem schwierigen Jahrgang 2013 dann voll ins Schwarze getroffen. Dies ist ein Spitzenwein, der vielschichtig und tief ist, aber trotzdem nicht schwierig zu verstehen. Und der noch dazu eine gewisse Leichtigkeit hat, welche die Hand des Trinkers immer wieder zurück zum Glas zieht. Das ist der rote Faden, der alle Stahl-Weine verbindet.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christian Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, in Frankfurt, Germany

Christian Schiller: Well deserved. Winzerhof Stahl is located in Auernhofen in the Franken wine area. Winemaking is only a recent activity in the Stahl family. Until the mid-1980s, Winzerhof Stahl did not exist. The Stahl family was doing farming and did not make any wine. Christian’s father then decided to acquire vineyards and to shift to winemaking.

Today, the vineyard area totals 25 hectares, including 10 hectares under a long term lease contract. Winzerhof Stahl also includes a wine tavern/restaurant with 200 seats.

Christian has been in charge of Winzerhof Stahl since 2005. He started his education at Weingut Stein in Würzburg (apprenticeship), then spent some time with the biodynamic winemaker Jakob-Peter Kühn in the Rheingau and finished his studies with a Diploma at the Geisenheim University.

Christian Stahl belongs to the group of German winemakers, who go their own way in terms of classifying and naming their wines. Also, he does not sell his wines in the traditional Bocksbeutel bottle, as most of his colleagues do in Franken, but in regular bottles, as in the rest of Germany. Right from the beginning when he took over, he has been using screw caps only. He also produces brandies and liqueurs.

With regard to classifying his wines, Christian disregards the German (standard) classification of 1971 and markets all his wines as Qualitaetswein b.A. But he is not in the group of winemakers, who have instead adopted the VDP approach to classify their wines. He has developed his own, innovative classification system, playing with his name Stahl (= steel).

Also, Christian rejects the terroir principle. You will never find a vineyard name on his bottles. Instead he gives his wines colorful names, such as Literweise (by the liter), Rauschgift (drugs) and Rosenrot (red like a rose).

See:
The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2013)

Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2012)

Best German Wine and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (2011) 

Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USAIf you want to follow him: Stuart Pigott Riesling Global

Top 10 Riesling Producers in the World– Snooth 2012

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

New Generation – The 111 Best Young German Winemakers (A Listing by Stuart Pigott)

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany



New German Arrivals from Rudi Wiest Selections at MacArthur Beverages, with Nancy Peach and Phil Bernstein, Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Nancy Peach Pouring Rudi Wiest Selections Wines at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Rudi Wiest is the Grand Seigneur of German wine in the United States and his import company Rudi Wiest Selections a leading importer of fine German wines in the United States market.

The new Northeast Sales Manager of Rudi Wiest Selections, Nancy Peach (since September 2014), came to Washington DC and introduced us at MacArthur Beverages to 7 new arrivals from Germany. The wines Nancy Peach poured were selected by MacArthur Beverages’ Phil Bernstein, one of the greatest German wine experts in the region and perhaps in the whole country. Reflecting the taste of Phil and most of his clients at MacArthur Beverages, the white wines were all Kabinett and Spätlese wines, i.e. wines with a noticeable level of residual sweetness, although the Rudi Wiest Selections portfolio is particularly known for being strong in terms of dry wines.

Pictures: Nancy Peach, Phil Bernstein and Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours

Rudi Wiest Selections

Rudi Wiest can look back to almost 50 years of bringing fine German wine to the United States market. Based on the West Coast, Rudi Wiest Selections boasts an impressive portfolio of about 20 German world class winemakers, all of them members of the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers. Thomas Haag of Weingut Schloss Lieser, for instance, is the Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau).

Becker: Pfalz
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm: Mosel
Fürst: Franken
Gunderloch: Rheinhessen
Joh Jos Prüm: Mosel
Meyer-Näkel: Ahr
Mönchhof: Mosel
Pfeffingen: Pfalz
Raumland (Sekt): Rheinhessen
Rebholz: Pfalz
Reinhold Haart: Mosel
Schäfer-Fröhlich: Nahe
Schloss Lieser: Mosel
Schnaitmann: Württemberg
Schloss Schönborn: Rheingau
Schloss Hallburg: Franken
von Buhl: Pfalz
von Hövel: Mosel
Wagner Stempel: Rheinhessen
Wirsching: Franken
Zilliken: Mosel

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Rudi Wiest in Wiesbaden, Germany

Nancy Peach has been selling wines for many years, including for 5 years as National Director of Valkenberg International. She is a former MW student. At the tasting, Nancy displayed strong knowledge of German wine. Coupled with her charm, we enjoyed a very entertaining tasting, which was well attended.

Picture: Nancy Peach, Phil Bernstein and Christian G.E. Schiller

Tasting Notes by Phil Bernstein and Annette Schiller

We started with a Rose, moved on to a few white Kabinett and Spätlese wines, and finished with a red wine.

The tasting notes below were prepared by MacArthur Beverages’ Phil Bernstein and by Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours.

Annette visited both Weingut Rebholz and Weingut Becker on her Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) and Weingut Mönchhof on her German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy (2013). For information on the wine tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015, which include several of the German winemakers in the Rudi Wiest Selections portfolio, go to ombiasyPR or the German section of the MacArthur Beverages website.

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Picture: Annette Schiller, Phil Bernstein and Christian G.E. Schiller at Last Year's Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) 

See:
The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

WINE # 1: 2013 Rebholz, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), dry, Rosé, Pfalz $26.99

Phil Bernstein: A very unique wine for sure. From the Pfalz region, this is 100% organic Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) from limestone soils. Bone-dry with excellent acidity (and a beautiful salmon color to boot) this is a Rose that could actually benefit from short to mid-term cellaring. Rebholz is by far one of the best producers in the Pfalz (and in all of Germany in my opinion).

Annette Schiller: Hansjörg and Birgit Rebholz produce highly individualistic wines by working as close as possible with nature. The Rebholz wines do not undergo any chaptalization, fining, or deacidifying nor will sweet reserve be added. The Rebholz wines are crystal clear, razor sharp, clean, simply beautiful in their transparency and underscore the individuality of the terroir, the climate, and the grape. This 100% organic entry level Spätburgunder from limestone soils is a fine example of the Rebholz style. It is bone-dry with pronounced acidity; it is crystal clean on the palate; and shows a lot of backbone. It is still very young and will certainly benefit from a bit of aging. Hansjörg Rebholz was nominated as winemaker of the year 2013 by the Austrian lifestyle magazine Falstaff.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) at Weingut Rebholz with Hansjörg Rebholz

See:
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

WINE # 2: 2013 Dr. F. Weins Prüm, Graacher Domprobst, Kabinett, sweet, Mosel $19.99

Phil Bernstein: Another favorite producer of mine, F Weins Prum continues to produce classic Mosel wines at obscene (in a good way for us) prices. A wine for under $20 from a “grand cru” site-you bet!

Annette Schiller: This small estate (7 acres) owns parcels in the famous Grand Cru sites in Erden, Wehlen and Graach, planted 100% with mature Riesling vines. The Grand Cru Graacher Domprobst vineyard is located on a dizzying steep slope behind the village of Graach. The soil is grey-blue Devonian slate over a thick layer of loam, which gives this wine the classic Mosel style. On the palate the wine is youthful with aromas of peach and other yellow fruit. It has a perfect acidity / sweetness balance with the acidity contributing to the refreshing mouthfeel, and the good finish. This wine is a perfect example of owner and winemaker Bert Selbach’s philosophy of producing high quality Mosel wines in the traditional style. This estate was also a founding member of the VDP (Association of Elite German Wine Estates) in the Mosel.

WINE # 3: 2013 Reinhold Haart, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Kabinett, sweet, Mosel $26.99

Phil Bernstein: Similar thoughts to above. Reinhold Haart is by far the best producer in Piesport and owns what are thought to be some of the best parcels in the famed Goldtropfchen. This is a great Kabinett that is drinking very well at the moment, and showing the nice verve and “cut” that is a hallmark of 2013.

Annette Schiller: The Haart family’s viticulture tradition goes back to the year 1337. This estate is one of the oldest of the Mosel appellation - probably the oldest in the town of Piesport- and never owned by the church or aristocracy, which was the norm in the old days. Like # 2 this is also a 100% Riesling estate. The Piesporter Goldtröpfchen (exact translation: little drop of gold) is also a Grand Cru vineyard site. It is a large vineyard and the Haart estate owns some of the best parcels, where the soil is soft shale, clay minerals and quarz compacted by pressure. This wine is very flavorful with rich peach and mango aromas, and a more spicy minerality. The youth of the wine comes through with a still spritzy mouthfeel. The acidity / sweetness balance swings more to the sweetness as opposed to the acidity, but that could change with some aging.

WINE # 4: 2013 Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Felseneck, Spätlese, sweet, Nahe $36.99

Phil Bernstein: If you’ve ever chatted German Riesling with me in the shop, I’ve no doubt suggested a wine from this producer. A longtime favorite, these are always Nahe masterpieces from Tim Frohlich, who was recently acclaimed as “winemaker of the year” by the German wine guide Gault Millau. Love these wines! I just enjoyed the 2004 version of this wine over the holidays and it’s still going (quite) strong. The bright yellow, greenish shimmering 2013 Felseneck Riesling Spätlese opens as a serious wine with cool, fresh, spicy/smoky slate, quartzite and herbal aromas on the nose that indicate a deep and mineral as well as full-bodied and complex Riesling. The palate is impressively juicy and pure at the same time and the finish piquant and salty. Still young this Spätlese just suggests its true class and complexity which shines through in a long, piquant and grippy finish. 93+ pts. Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Picture: Tim Fröhlich, Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Wiesbaden, Germany

Annette Schiller This wine is completely different from the two Mosel wines. It shows the Nahe character with pronounced minerality, saltiness, backbone, and acidity. To describe this wine I can second Phil Bernstein from MacArthur Beverages: ”The bright yellow, greenish shimmering 2013 Felseneck Riesling Spätlese opens as a serious wine with cool, fresh, spicy/smoky slate, quartzite, and herbal aromas on the nose that indicate a deep, and mineral as well as full-bodied and complex Riesling. The palate is impressively juicy and pure at the same time, and the finish piquant and salty. Still young this Spätlese just suggests its true class and complexity which shines through in a long, piquant, and gripping finish.” Owner and winemaker Tim Fröhlich was nominated by Gault Millau, the German top wine guide, as winemaker of the year in 2010. He consistently produces wines of top quality with complexity and individual character. This Nahe estate cultivates 37 acres of vines planted with Riesling (80%) and Pinots (20%) on outstanding steep sites of varied stony soils, which are the basis for their unmistakable, authentic wines.

WINE # 5: 2003 Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch, Spätlese, sweet, Mosel $31.99

Phil Bernstein: This wine is a recent library release. I actually ordered it by accident as it was listed amongst 2013’s and I didn’t notice the vintage. I’ll call it a “good mistake” as it’s tough to source older Riesling these days with great provenance. Zilliken is a longtime favorite producer from the Saar, and I’m sure many of you have enjoyed their wines. This wine is just starting to pick up some of the secondary characteristics of well-aged Riesling (even a hint of petrol!), but still has plenty of life ahead of it. A bargain from one of Germany’s masters.

Annette Schiller: This wine comes from the spectacular Grand Cru vineyard site “Saarburger Rausch”, which is in the valley of the Saar river, a tributary of the Mosel river. For generations the Geltz-Zilliken family owns parcels in this vineyard and the father and daughter winemaker team, Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken, are committed to taking great care of the ecosystem to conserve the unique combination of climate factors, soils, fauna, and flora. All wines are fermented in wooden casks in cool, century old, damp cellars and the bottles are stored three stories below ground - sometimes for decades - to reach their peak. This more than 10 year old wine had an unbelievably young feel. It only had a hint of the characteristics of a well-aged Riesling. The nose shows lots of fruit, the palate is rich and juicy with a strong backbone, the acidity / sweetness balance is elegant, with the balance leaning more towards the acidity than the sweetness, the finish long and lingering. What a gem of a wine!

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and Winetours, Christian G.E. Schiller and Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

See also:
Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

WINE # 6: 2011 Mönchhof, Riesling, Spätlese, sweet, Mosel

Annette Schiller: The Mönchhof is one of the oldest estates in the Mosel region. The name already suggests that once it was part of property belonging to the clergy. Documents from Pope Alexander III show that the Cistercian Abbey at Himmerod owned the estate and vineyards with excellent terroir around the village of Ürzig as early as 1177. In 1804, secularization during the Napoleonic era allowed the Eymael family to buy the Mönchhof estate including outstanding vineyard sites. An ancestor, Jean Eymael, was one of the founding fathers of the VDP (Association of Elite German Wine Estates) in 1910. This wine was not produced from a specific vineyard site. The grapes come from various sites around the village of Ürzig. The pronounced sweetness is nicely counterbalanced by acidity, and mineral flavors. On the nose there are intense apricot, mango, pineapple and lime notes. This wine will go nicely with Asian and some spicy foods.

WINE # 7: 2011 Friedrich Becker, Pinot Noir, dry, Pfalz

Annette Schiller: This winery is unique. The vineyards are in two countries - 30% in Germany and 70% in France- due to the winery’s situation right on the German/French border and the history of changing the borders back and forth throughout the last two centuries. In this area the Rhine rift created many different soil types which presented favorable conditions for planting a wide variety of grapes, including chalky limestone for excellent Pinot Noir. In 1973 Friedrich Becker was the first of his family to distance himself from delivering the grapes to the local co-operative and decided to make his own wine. Right from the start he has been one of the best Pinot Noir producers in Germany. The Gault and Millau 2010 “Best Red Wine of the Year” is a Friedrich Becker Pinot Noir from a Grand Cru vineyard. This entry level 2011 Pinot Noir shows grandiose flavors of black cherries and blueberries. There is a pleasant velvety mouthfeel with a good tannin structure and acidity, which lingered on. This is an elegant wine good to drink now.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) at Weingut Becker, with Friedrich Becker

See:
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

MacArthur Beverages

Find us on: Facebook| Twitter| Instagram| YouTube| Pinterest| Google +| Yelp!
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm
202 338 1433 | www.bassins.com
4877 MacArthur Blvd. N.W. Washington, DC 20007

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013  

The Annual “New German Vintage” Tasting of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Phil Bernstein - 2012 Vintage, Germany/USA

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines

Weingut Gunderloch– The New Generation: Owner Johannes Hasselbach in Washington DC, US

 Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: In the Vineyard with Reimund Stumpf, Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

The Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) took us to 2 exceptional winemakers in the Franken region. One of them was Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Frickenhausen.

Picture: Welcome at Weingut Bickel-Stumpf - Melanie Stumpf-Kröger

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf is a typical family run winery and we were received by the whole family. Melanie Stumpf-Kröger, who had just become a proud mother, received us. I know Melanie quite well from the time she was working at the VDP headquarters. Raimund Stumpf then served us a delicious Sekt and took us on a fascinating walk to the vineyards of Weingut Bickel-Stumpf. We then returned to the Bickel Stumpf home for a tasting of their wines, which was led by Reimund Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger, with Matthias Stumpf joining us from time to time.

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Pictures: Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

Franken

Franken, located in the northern part of Bavaria, is boasting a long tradition and some fine terroirs (mostly shell limestone and Keuper, a kind of marl). Its two leading grape varieties are Riesling and Silvaner. Typically, Franken wine comes in the distinctive, dumpily-rounded Franken “Bocksbeutel” wine bottle. The bottle’s unusual shape dates back to at least the 16th century. The Bocksbeutel may only be used for Franken wines. In Germany, it is a sign of excellence, while in the US, many consumers link this kind of bottle shape to lower quality wine.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour with Reimund Stumpf

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf is a fairly recently established winery, one that grew out of a love story. Reimund Stumpf and Carmen Bickel met, fell in love, and in 1976 decided to share their lot – personally and professionally. The winery’s 10 hectares are in two locations, in Thüngersheim (Johannisberg and Scharlachberg), north of Würzburg, and in Frickenhausen (Fischer and Kapellenberg), 25 miles upstream the Main River.

Pictures: Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger

Silvaner (30%), Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Spätburgunder are the main grape varieties. Frickenhausen with its shell-limestone vineyards is known for its white wine. All of the wines from Frickenhausen have a light, creamy smoothness -sometimes, more intense; sometimes, more subdued. In Thüngersheim, red wine dominates. A large portion of the vineyards in Thüngersheim are planted on the upper layers of Bundsandstein (colored sandstone). The wines from these sites are mineral and straightforward.

Pictures: Tasting with  Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger

Both children of Raimund and Carmen Stump - Matthias and Melanie - became winemakers and earned their credentials during many apprenticeships in Germany and abroad. Matthias joined the operation in 2003 und Melanie in 2012. While Melanie focuses on sales and marketing, Matthias works in the vineyards and the cellar. He has taken over the main responsibility for the wines from his father.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger

The wine cellar is in a modern building in Thüngersheim. The white wines are aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks, the red wines in oak barrels. Annual production: 8000 cases.

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf is a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany.

Pictures: The Next Generation

Tasting

2013 Silvaner trocken VDP.Gutswein
2012 Cremant Francophile de la Chapelle extra brut
2013 Silvaner Buntsandstein trocken VDP.Ortswein
2012 Silvaner Muschelkalk trocken VDP.Ortswein
2012 Kapellenberg Silvaner trocken VDP.ErsteLage
2013 Kapellenberg Silvaner trocken VDP.ErsteLage
2013 Kapellenberg Fränkischer Gemischter Satz trocken VDP.ErsteLage
2013 Johannisberg Scheurebe trocken VDP.ErsteLage

Picture: Impressive Wine Line-up

Bye-bye

Thanks Reimund Stumpf for a memorable vineyard walk and thanks Raimund Stumpf, Melanie Stumpf-Kröger and Matthias Stumpf for an excellent tasting.

Picture: Reimund Stumpf

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Angelo Delea at Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

As part of the 2014 Digitul Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland, I explored the wines of Ticino during a post-conference press trip. This posting - Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland - is the sixth in a series of postings (see below) emanating from my visit of Ticino.

See also:
Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland
Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Brivio Vini SA and Gialdi Vini SA in Mendrisio, Ticono, with Guido Brivio, Switzerland
Polenta and Ticino Wine at Grotto Bundi in Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting Cantina Kopp von der Crone Visini and Tasting with Barbara von der Crone and Paolo Visini in Barbengo, Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting (and Tasting the Wines of) Tamborini SA and Lunch with Valentina Tamborini, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland
Touring an Tasting the Wines of Agriloro SA and Diner with Owner Meinrad Perler, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vinattieri Ticinesi, Switzerland
Lunch at Ristorante Montalbano in Stabio, Switzerland

Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA is a large grower/negociant wine producer. In addition, Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA is also a wine importer and retailer. Vini e Distillati is also a major grappa and other brandies producer as well as balsamic vinegar produer. Finally, the Ristorante Bottega del Vino in Locarno, the Bottega del Vino in Ascona and the Fattoria l’Amorosa Hotel and Restaurant in Gudo are also part of the Delea empire.

We were received by David Delea and greeted by founder Angelo Delea.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and David Delea at Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

Angelo Delea started his career as a restaurant owner. His love for wine made him become a sommelier before he started to make wine, initially for his own consumption only. In 1983, he founded Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA. Today Vini e Distillati is one of the largest and best known winemakers in Ticino.

Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA owns 23 hectares of land and buys grapes from other producers, equaling about 30 hectares of land. Total output is 70.000 cases.

The Fattoria ll’Amorosa in Gudo includes 4 hectares planted with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It also includes a small hotel, a restaurant and a wine shop.

The Castello di Cantone in Rancate at the foot of the Monte San Giorgio consists of 6 hectares planted with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Semillon.

The Tenuta Paleari in Quartino is the most recent investment of the Delea family, with 8 hectares planted with Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon.

Next to the Tenuta Paleari is the Cavigliano vineyard (1 hectare) with Chardonnay only.

Pictures: Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

In addition to producing a wide range of wines, Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA is also an important producer of grappa and other brandies as well as balsamic vinegar. Finally, the Ristorante Bottega del Vino in Locarno, the Bottega del Vino in Ascona and the Fattoria l’Amorosa Hotel and Restaurant in Gudo are also part of the Delea empire.

Tour and Tasting with David Delea

We were received in a large modern building. David Delea told us that the facility was constructed in 1993 and doubled in size in 2003. It was quite impressive what we saw: a wine store, a balsamic vinegar production facility, a grappa and other brandy production facility, a large wine cellar, including 800 barrique barrels and an impressive wine museum.

Balsamic Vinegar

We started in the room where Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA makes its traditional balsamic vinegar. David gave us a short introduction: balsamic vinegar is produced by cooking the juice from the pressed grapes for hours until a brown, syrupy liquid with concentrated flavors ( approximately 30% of the original volume). The flavor intensifies over the years, with the vinegar being aged in wooden casks, becoming sweet, viscous and very concentrated. During this period, a portion evaporates. The barrels are topped up according to the Solera System: The oldest cooked must is topped up with the must from the previous year and the must from the previous year is topped up with the must from the year before and so on. The barrels are made of different types of wood, such as cherry, chestnut, oak, mulberry, and ash and they each hold different capacities, becoming smaller with the aging process.

The end result is a very sweet, thick, rich and complex vinegar. Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA sells balsamic vinegar that is 2, 7, 12 and 17 years old.

Pictures: Producing Balsamic Vinegar

Grappa and other Brandies

With a production of 20.000 liters, Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA is the most import producer of grappa and other brandies in Ticino.

Pictures: Producing Grappa and Other Brandies

Wine

David showed us the wine production facilities including a large barrel cellar. 

Pictures: Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

Wine Museum

We also had a chance to spend some time in the Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA wine museum.

Picture: Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA Wine Museum

Tasting

Finally, we sat down in the impressive barrel cellar for a wine tasting.

Pictures: Wine Tasting at Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA

2011 Noir Brut Spumante Bianco Ticinese DOC Franken 22
2012 Chiar di Luna Bianco di Merlot Ticino DOC Franken 15
2012 Chiar di Luna Bianco di Merlot Ticino DOC Zensa solfiti
2011 Carato Bianco del Ticino DOC Franken 28
2013 Nero di Luna Zensa Solfiti - Easy drinking wine
2011 San Carlo Merlot del Locarnese Ticino DOC Franken 21 - Merlot 92%, Cabernet Franc 8%, Vineyard San Carlo, vines planted in 1987, fermentation in stainless steel tanks, aged for 15 months in new oak barrels of 400 liters, 20,000 bottles
2010 Carato Merlot affinato in Barrique Ticino DOC Franken 32 - Merlot 100%
2010 Carato Riserva Merlot affinato in Barrique Ticino DOC Franken 55 - Merlot 100%, over twenty years, Montedato vineyard in the municipality of Lavertezzo, Long maceration of up to 30 days, aged for 24 months in new oak barrels of 400 liters, 7,000 bottles

Pictures: The Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA Wine we Tasted

We also had a chance to taste the balsamic vinegars.

Picture: Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA Balsamic Vinegars

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

The 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland 

The Wines of Weingut Saxer, a Winemaker in the German-speaking part of Switzerland

The Wines of Switzerland– Grand Tasting with (and Introduction to Swiss Wines by) Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: Annette Schiller and Fritz Keller

During the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), we had two long luncheons at 1 star Michelin restaurants: at Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier and at the legendary Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen. As to the former, I have already reported about the spectacular luncheon cum winetasting here:

Before the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, we joined Fritz Keller at his new winery, where he showed us around and treated us to a tasting that included 10 wines, compared with the 4 wines that had been planned. This posting focuses on Weingut Franz Keller and the tasting with Fritz Keller. A posting covering the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler will follow.

Picture: Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, with Bettina Keller

Fritz Keller showed us his new winery and then led a tasting of his wines. Following the tasting, he took us to the Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, where we also met his wife Bettina Keller and had a fabulous luncheon.

Picture: The New Winery of Weingut Franz Keller Winery

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

The Fritz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Pictures: Fritz Keller Welcoming us

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Picture: Winery Tour - Bumping into Friedrich Keller, the Next Generation

Weingut Franz Keller

With the Keller family everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than 50 years ago. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

Pictures: Fritz Keller Explaining the Vineyards

Fritz Keller: Initially, everything revolved around gastronomy for the Kellers. To make wines that partner food perfectly has thus always been central to their winemaking. In vineyard and winery, just as in the kitchens of the restaurants, the greatest attention is paid to the raw materials. Only grapes of a select quality – this is our conviction – can go on to develop their own character which speaks of the terroir and the estate.

Trading in Fine Wine

Fritz Keller: Trading in fine wines has been a tradition of more than 100 years in the Keller family. To this day, the focus is on the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy: a unique portfolio unequalled in quality and breadth encompassing wines from the most prestigious vineyards and chateaux, completed by selected wines from other European and New World regions.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Edition Fritz Keller

Edition Fritz Keller is a highly successful collaboration of Fritz Keller with Aldi, Germany's legendary discount food retailer. Under the brand name Edition Fritz Keller, he initially (in 2007) produced a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Blanc from Baden, contracting with a great many smaller growers of the region for grapes. In this quest to bring top-quality wine to as many people as possible, Fritz has, as the back label pompously informs us, found inspiration in the "Bauhaus" school of architecture and art. The portfolio has now expanded to more than half a dozen wines.

Pictures: Tasting with Fritz Keller

The Wines Fritz Keller Poured


2013 Franz Keller Pinot Blanc VDP.Gutswein Euro 9,50
2013 Franz Keller Pinot Gris VDP.Gutswein Euro 9,50
2013 Oberbergener Pulverbuck, Weisburgunder VDP.Este Lage Euro 16,00
2013 Oberbergener Bassgeige “Vum Kähner”, Grauburgunder VDP.Erste Lage Euro 16,00
2012 Franz Keller Pinot Noir VDP.Gutswein Euro 11,00
2012 Franz Anton Pinot Noir Euro 20,00
2013 Oberbergener Bassgeige “Im Leh”, Weissburgunder VDP.Grosse Lage GG Euro 34,00
2013 Kirchberger Chardonnay A VDP.Grosse Lage GG Euro 34,00
2012 Spätburgunder A Euro 45,00


schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Italy’s Top Wines and Winemakers - Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2015

$
0
0
Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, and Pio Boffa, Pio Cesare, in Philadelphia

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

See also:
The Wines of Pio Cesare with Owner Cesare Benvenuto and the Food of Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, Italy/USA
Pio Boffa and the Wines of Pio Cesare, Piedmont, Italy

The best Italian wine guide is Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia. Italy’s top winemakers and the top wines are awarded glasses, from 1 glass to 3 glasses - Tre Bicchieri.

Picture: Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2015

This is the 28th edition of Vini d’Italia, which was first published in late 1987 in newsletter format with reviews of a limited number of wines. It has grown in size and coverage each year since then. The 2015 edition contains reviews of about 25,000 wines from approximately 2,400 wineries. It is 984 pages long and sells for 30 Euros. Gambero Rosso also publishes German, Chinese, English and Japanese translations of the Vini d’Italia.

See here for previous years:
Italy’s Top Wines and Winemakers - Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2014
Italy’s Top Wines and Wine Makers – The 2013 Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia
Italy’s Top Wines and Wine Makers – The 2012 Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia
Italy's Top Wines - 2011 Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia Wine Guide

Italian Wine

Italy is home of some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards. Two thousand years later, Italy is world leader in wine, accounting for about 20% of world wine production. Italians also lead the world in wine consumption by volume, 59 liters per capita, compared with 8 liters per capita in the US. Wine is grown in almost every region of the country.

Wine Regions

There is wine everywhere in Italy, from the Alps in the North to Sicilia in the South, clustered into 20 wine regions, which correspond to the 20 administrative regions. The about 30 DOCG wines are located in 13 different administrative regions but most of them are concentrated in Piedmont and Tuscany.

Picture: The Wine Regions of Italy (Source: Corkbuzz)

The Piedmont area of northwestern Italy is further divided into the two popular regions of Barbaresco and Barolo. The predominant grape there is the Nebbiolo. Northeastern Italy has the Veneto area. Soave and Valpolicella are two important regions that produce many local varieties. The large area in central Italy is Tuscany and is known for Chianti and Chianti Classico. The Sangiovese is the predominant red grape in Tuscany. In Italy’s South are Puglia and the island of Sicily. The Negroamaro grape is widely grown in this area.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Barone Francesco Ricasoli in Gaiole at Castello di Brolio

See also:
Visiting Barone Francesco Ricasoli and his Castello di Brolio in Chianti Classico, Italy

Italy’s Grape Varieties

There are several hundreds of indigenous grape varieties in Italy. The following is a list of the most common and important ones.

Rosso

Sangiovese - Italy's claim to fame, the pride of Tuscany. It produces Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino.

Nebbiolo - The most noble of Italy's varietals. Nebbiolo is difficult to master, but produces the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco.

Montepulciano - The grape of this name is not to be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano; it is most widely planted on the opposite coast in Abruzzo. Its wines develop silky plum-like fruit, friendly acidity, and light tannin.

Barbera - The most widely grown red wine grape of Piedmont and Southern Lombardy, most famously around the towns of Asti and Alba, and Pavia. Barbera wines were once considered as the lighter versions of Barolos. But this has changed. They are now sometimes aged in French barrique, intended for the international market.

Corvina - Along with the varietals Rondinella and Molinara, this is the principal grape which makes the famous wines of the Veneto: Valpolicella and Amarone.

Nero d'Avola - Nearly unheard of in the international market until recent years, this native varietal of Sicily is gaining attention for its plummy fruit and sweet tannins. The quality of Nero d'Avola has surged in recent years.

Dolcetto - A grape that grows alongside Barbera and Nebbiolo in Piedmont; a wine for everyday drinking.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Marco Pallanti, Owner/Winemaker at Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico in Italy

See also:
Extraordinary Art and Wines at Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico, Italy

Bianco

Trebbiano - Behind Cataratto (which is made for industrial jug wine), this is the most widely planted white varietal in Italy. It is grown throughout the country, with a special focus on the wines from Abruzzo and from Lazio, including Frascati. Mostly easy drinking wines.

Moscato - Grown mainly in Piedmont, it is mainly used in the slightly-sparkling (frizzante), semi-sweet Moscato d'Asti.

Pinot Grigio - A hugely successful commercial grape, known as Pinot Gris in France and Grauburgunder in Germany. Produces crisp and clean wines. Typically mass-produced wine in Italy.

Arneis - A crisp and floral varietal from Piedmont, which has been grown there since the 15th century.

Garganega - The main grape varietal for wines labeled Soave, this is a crisp, dry white wine from the Veneto wine region.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Giovanni Folonari from Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari Tenute

See also:
Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

The 2015 Gambero Rosso Tre Bichieri Wines

423 wines got the top award of Tre Bichieri in the Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia 2015. This compares with 415 wines in the 2014 Guide, 399 in the 2013 Guide and 375 wines in the 2012 Guide.

As in past years, there are considerable regional disparities in the distribution of award recipients. The top four regions (Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto and Alto Adige) account for a combined 212 awards, or slightly more than half the total number.

Wines from the Piedmont received the largest number of awards (79), with Barolo and Barbaresco wines dominating the list. As usual, the producers listed read like a who’s-who of Italian wines – Gaja, Vietti, Giacosa, Conterno, and Grasso, to name a few.

The second-highest number of award-winning wines were from Tuscany. 72 wines from Tuscany received Tre Bicchieri awards. 15 Brunello di Montalcino wines received Tre Bicchieri awards, the same number as in the previous year. The majority of award-winning Brunello wines are from the stellar 2007 vintage. Numerous Super-Tuscan wines received Tre Bicchieri awards, the majority of which are from the 2010 vintage.

The 2015 Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia Awards

Red Wine of the Year: Barolo Villero Ris. ’07 – Vietti

White Wine of the Year: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo V. Di Capestrano ’12 – Valle Reale

Sparkling wine of the year: Brut Cl. Nature – Monsupello

Sweet wine of the year: Vin Santo of Carmignano Ris. ’07 – Tenuta di Capezzana

Winery of the Year: Tenuta Sette Ponti

Best Value for Money Wine of the Year: Custoza Sup. Ca’ del Magro ’12 – Monte del Frà

Vinegrower of the Year: Giuseppe Gabbas

Up and Coming Winery of the Year: Tiare – Roberto Snidarcig

Award for Sustainable Vitculture and Winemaking: Barone Pizzini

 schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Italian Natural Wines

The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo

Meeting Winemaker and Owner Massimo “Max” di Lenardo from Friuli, Italy and Tasting His di Lenardo Vineyards Wines

Kobrand’s Impressive Tour d'Italia 2011 in Washington DC, USA

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano– the Butcher of Chianti Classico

Meeting Wine Maker Paolo Cianferoni at his Caparsa Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Extraordinary Art and Wines at Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico, Italy

Tasting Wines where Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa was Born – With Wine Maker and General Manager Francesco Nardi at Vignamaggio Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy

The Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta, Italy 

Visiting Barone Francesco Ricasoli and his Castello di Brolio in Chianti Classico, Italy

Pio Boffa and the Wines of Pio Cesare, Piedmont, Italy

The Wines of Pio Cesare with Owner Cesare Benvenuto and the Food of Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, Italy/USA

The 1 Star Michelin Food of Chef Stefano Cerveni from the due colombe Ristorante and the Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta - Wining and Dining at il Mosnel, Italy  

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: Weingut Robert Weil, with the Basilica of Saint Valentin in Kiedrich in the Back, Rheingau

The Rheingau part of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) began with a visit of 2 “holy” places – the Basilica of Saint Valentine and Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich.

Weingut Robert Weil is without any doubt the Rheingau’s flagship winery. It is currently managed and co-owned by Wilhelm Weil. We were hosted by Wilhelm Weil’s personal assistant, Jan Christensen. The visit included a cellar tour, a look at the vineyards and a tasting in the garden of Weingut Robert Weil

Pictures: Wilhelm Weil with Jan Christensen, Martina Weil, Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller

Basilica of Saint Valentine in Kiedrich

A very special treat was the visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine in Kiedrich. Kiedrich is a 1000 year old wine-growing community and famous for its completely preserved Gothic architecture. The organ in the Saint Valentine church dates from the late Gothic period and is the oldest playable organ in Germany. Since 1330, every Sunday at High Mass a boys and men choir (recently girls have been allowed to join) sings liturgial Latin plainsongs (Gregorian chants) in a special dialect only preserved here.

Pictures: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine

Weingut Robert Weil

Founded in 1875, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich is the Rheingau’s #1 estate and one of Germany’s best. Four generations and over a century ago Dr. Robert Weil, who was a Professor of German at the Sorbonne, was forced to leave Paris because of the Franco-Prussian War (1870/1871). He subsequently joined his brother August in Kiedrich in the Rheingau and established the Robert Weil winery.

Pictures: Welcome Sekt with Jan Christensen in the Weingut Robert Weil Vinothek

Dr. Robert Weil purchased his first vineyards in Kiedrich and moved there in 1875, when he bought the estate manor from the heirs of Sir John Sutton, an English baronet. A man of vision, he built up the estate by purchasing 2 local wine estates and the vineyards of Count von Fürstenberg. Contacts throughout the world and the production of great wines brought rapid growth to the Weingut Robert Weil.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Today, Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. With 75 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking.

In 1988, the estate was sold by Robert Weil to the Japanese beverage group Suntory, and his son Wilhelm appointed as estate director.

The vineyards are planted 100% with Riesling. The estate’s dedication to Riesling since 1875 has led numerous observers of the international wine world to regard Weingut Robert Weil as a worldwide symbol of German Riesling culture. A Riesling wine of the 1893 vintage, grown on the Gräfenberg site, made the estate famous. The imperial Habsburg court in Vienna purchased 800 bottles of this wine at a price of 16 gold Marks per bottle in 1900. The 1920 vintage of the Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese is described as a Zeppelin wine, as it was served on board the LZ 127 „Graf Zeppelin” dirigible on its circumnavigation of the world in 1929. Robert Weil’s top botrytis wines are sold today at extremely high prices - they are among the most expensive in the world. The current world record (in 2006) is held by a 1999 Weil Trockenbeerenauslese, at DM 5.000 (EUR 2500).

Pictures: Looking at the Vineyards

Weingut Robert Weil’s top vineyards all belong to the group of the highlying sites of the Rheingau: Kiedricher Klosterberg, Kiedricher Turmberg and Kiedricher Gräfenberg. Inclination (up to 60 %), exposure (southwest) and the ability of the barren stony soils to absorb heat are the factors that make for three perfect Riesling sites. These conditions, as well as ideal circulation, enable the grapes to remain on the vine for a long time, ripening well into November.

Pictures: Tasting

What Jan Poured

2011 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Sekt Brut
2013 Weingut Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken VDP.Gutswein
2013 Kiedricher Riesling Trocken VDP.Ortswein
2013 Kiedricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken VDP.ErsteLage
2013 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken VDP.ErsteLage
2013 Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken VDP.GrosseLage
2013 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spätlese VDP.ErsteLage
2006 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spätlese VDP.ErsteLage


schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Weingut Robert Weil)

Christian G.E. Schiller's Review of the Book: Ralf Frenzel (ed.) - Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, in: Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 9, 2014, No. 1, Cambridge University Press

Deputy Managing Director Jochen Becker-Köhn and Export Director Nicolas Pfaff of Weingut Robert Weil in Singapore

Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau, Germany: Super Sommerfest/Summer Party 2014

Weingut Robert Weil Goes Facebook, Germany

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich, Rheingau, Germany: Super Sommerfest/Summer Party 2014

Weingut Robert Weil Goes Facebook, Germany

German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

The 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau, Germany

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux   

Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland

$
0
0
Picture: Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland

As part of the 2014 Digitul Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland, I explored the wines of Ticino during a post-conference press trip. This posting - Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland - is the seventh of a series of postings (see below) emanating from my visit of Ticino.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Winemaker Antonio Ginardi

See also:
Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland
Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Brivio Vini SA and Gialdi Vini SA in Mendrisio, Ticono, with Guido Brivio, Switzerland
Polenta and Ticino Wine at Grotto Bundi in Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting Cantina Kopp von der Crone Visini and Tasting with Barbara von der Crone and Paolo Visini in Barbengo, Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting (and Tasting the Wines of) Tamborini SA and Lunch with Valentina Tamborini, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland
Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland
Touring an Tasting the Wines of Agriloro SA and Diner with Owner Meinrad Perler, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vinattieri Ticinesi, Switzerland
Lunch at Ristorante Montalbano in Stabio, Switzerland 

Wine Producer Switzerland

Switzerland is a small wine producer with about 15 000 hectares of vineyards only. This is about 15 percent of Germany’s total winegrowing area and a bit more than 1 percent of that of Spain. Only less than 2% of the wine is exported, mainly to Germany.

Switzerland's particular situation - in between four wine-producing nations (France, Italy, Germany and Austria) and itself divided into four different areas with different languages and traditions - has resulted in an extreme diversity of its wines.

Picture: Map of Switzerland

Switzerland has an extensive range of grape varieties. Among the white grapes, the Chasselas is the most widespread. Müller-Thurgau, cultivated above all in the German speaking part of Switzerland, and Sylvaner are also popular. The main red grape varieties are Pinot Noir, which can be found in all the wine-producing regions of Switzerland, and Gamay, which predominates in the Valais; Merlot has found a second home in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland, the Ticino.

Ticino

Ticino is a quite distinct winemaking zone in Switzerland, totaling 1000 hectares. The canton Ticino (and the wine region Tecino) is divided into two regions by the dividing line of the Monte Ceneri Pass: Sopraceneri in the north and Sottoceneri in the south. The Sopraceneri soils are rather stony with a full complement of silt and sand, while the Sottoceneri soils are limestone and deep, rich clays. Ticino's climate is Mediterranean.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Lugano

There are a total of about 3600 grape growers in Ticino and 200 or so winemakers, including a co-operative. The 200 or so winemakers range from pure negociant-type producer (who buy all the grapes the use for their wine) to winemakers that only use their own grapes for making wine. Vineyards are generally small, steep plots of between 3 ha and 6 ha and yields are at 70 hl/ha. 15 winemakers account for about 80% of the total production. The co-op produces 1 million bottles annually.

Merlot is the dominant grape variety. The Ticino Merlot ranges from easy drinking, including white, Merlots to ultra-premium Merlots that can compete with the best in the world (including Bordeaux) and cost US$50 to US$150 per bottle.

Azienda Mondo

Azienda Mondo belongs to the group of winemakers that cover the whole winemaking process, from growing grapes, to making wine and bottling and marketing the wines. It is a small producer. The vineyard area totals 6 hectares (of which 2 are long-term leased). The winery is idyllically located up on a mountain.

Pictures: Tasting at Azienda Mondo

There are 4 people in the winery, including owner Giorgio Rossi, who is a self-taught, enthusiastic winemaker. He founded the winery 20 years ago. Total production is 3000 cases, of which 1/3 is sold to direct customers at the winery, 1/3 to restaurants and 1/3 to the trade.

We were received by winemaker Antonio Ginardi.

The Wines Antonio Poured

2013 Iris, Bianco del Ticino, Ticino DOC 15 Sfr.
Blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, a fresh aperitif wine

2013 Rosato di Bondola del Nonu Mario, Rosato di Bondola, Ticino DOC 15 Sfr.
Again, a fresh, clean aperitif wine

2010 Crudell, IGT Bianco della Svizzera Italiana 30 Sfr.
Chardonnay (40%), Müller Thurgau (17%), Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Arneis (3%), 12 months aged in new and used wood, a much more complex wine than the traditional white wines from Ticino


2011 Bondola del Nonu Mario, Ticino DOC 19 Sfr.
100% Bondola, a traditional Ticino grape variety, for the production of easy drinking wines

2011 Scintilla, Ticino DOC 18 Sfr.
An easy drinking Merlot

2010 Ronco dei Ciliegi, Rosso del Ticino DOC 35 Sfr.
Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), 18 months in new and used wood, a premium wine

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

The 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland 

The Wines of Weingut Saxer, a Winemaker in the German-speaking part of Switzerland

The Wines of Switzerland– Grand Tasting with (and Introduction to Swiss Wines by) Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz 

David Suire, the Right-Hand Man of Nicolas Thienpont Presented Wines of the Nicolas Thienpont Collection of Right Bank Bordeaux Estates in Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Picture: David Suire and Mark Wessels, Managing Director of MacArthur Beverages

Nicolas Thienpont makes a number of Bordeaux wines, ranging from petite chateau wines to classified growth wines, as Owner, Managing Director or Consultant of the estate. David Suire is his right-hand man. David came to Washington DC, USA, to present to us some of the wines he and Nicolas are involved with.

Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and I enjoyed the informal wine tasting with David very much. At times, there was quite a crowd but there were also moments were Annette and I could talk with Mark Wessels, Managing Director of  MacArthur Beverages, and David about what is going on in Bordeaux, in terms of the vintage, new restaurants, the upcoming primeur tastings and other right bank wine issues, etc. ahead of Annette annual Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy coming up later this year during September 15 to 24, 2015.

See:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Mark Wessels and David Suire

Nicolas Thienpont and the Thienpont Family

Anyone who know the Thienponts, probably know more than one of the family. There are a dozen or so wine makers and wine traders in the family. I have shortly referred to the 3 most prominent ones (in addition to Nicolas) below.

The Thienpont family is from Belgium. It all started in 1842, when Camille Thienpont began running a successful wine merchant based in Belgium. After the First World War George Thienpont came to Bordeaux and bought Château Troplong Mondot in Saint-Émilion and Vieux Château Certan in Pomerol. In 1934, the family was forced to sell Château Troplong Mondot after a string of bad vintages. But they managed to keep Vieux Château Certan, which today is run by Alexandre Thienpont. In 1946, George Thienport bought Chateau Puygueraud. In 1979, Jacques Thienpont purchased Château Le Pin. Château Vieux Château Certan, Château Puygueraud and Château Le Pin are the crown-jewels of the current Thienpont portfolio, as far as ownership is concerned

Initially, Nicolas Thienpont, did not seem destined for a career in viticulture. He studied law and philosophy, but turned to winemaking in the 1980s. In 1983, he undertook his first vinification at Chateau Puygueraud and from 1985 he assisted his cousin Alexandre at Vieux Chateau Certan. At the end of 1994, the Corre-Macquin family asked him to take over the management of Chateau Pavie Macquin, a Grand Cru Classé. In 2002, Nicolas became Managing Director of Larcis Ducasse.

Pictures: David Suire with Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller

Nicolas Thiepont’s Portfolio (Ownership, Management, Consultancy)

Chateau Pavie Macquin, Premier Grand Cru Classe B (2006) St Emilion – managing since 1994.
Château Larcis Ducasse Grand Cru Classe St Emilion – managing since 2002.
Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarosse Premier Grand Cru Classé B – managing since February 2009.
Chateau Berliquet Grand Cru Classe St Emilion – managing since 2008.
Chateau Pavie Macquin Premier Grand Cru Classé B (2006) – managing.
Château Bellevue – managed until 2007.
Château Les Charmes Godard – owning since 1988.
Château Puygueraud – co-owning (family) since 1946.
Château La Prade – owning since 2000.

Other Thienponts

Alexandre Thienpont studied oenology and became director of Vieux Château Certan in 1985 as natural heir to his father Léon, but also as natural heir to the Thienpont ‘s common heritage.

Jacques Thienpont took over the wine trading business, a company founded by Kamille Thienpont in Hof te Cattebeke, in Etikhove in 1842, in his uncle’s stride. He purchased Le Pin in 1979.

Francois Thienpont worked a few years in the US, in wine distribution in Texas. In 1985, he came back to Bordeaux to oversee the marketing and sales of Château Puygueraud’s wines. François created Wings in 1995. The company distributes the Thienpont family property wines and also represents lesser known châteaux.

We met Francois Thienpont a few months ago in Singapore, see:
Winemakers from Around the World at Straits Wine Company’s Wine Fiesta 2014 in Singapore

Picture: Francois Thienport Pouring his Wines at Straits Wine Company's Wine Fiesta 2014 in Singapore

David Suire

David Suire is from the Cognac region. He studied winemaking in Bordeaux and graduated with a Diplôme National d'Oenologue in 2002. Nicolas Thienport picked him from university and David has been working with Nicolas ever since.

Pictures: Wine Tasting with David Suire at MacArthur Beverages

What David Poured

2013 Chateau Charmes Godard Blanc - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

The estate, which was bought by Nicolas Thienpont and his brothers in 1988, produces both red and white wines.


In the Charmes Godard white, it is both the predominance of Semillon and the winemaking techniques (barrel fermentation and lies contact) that give the wine its richness and good supporting acidity. Its aromatic complexity is due to judicious blending with Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris. 70% Semillon, 15% Muscadelle, 15% Sauvignon Gris.

2010 La Prade - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

Château La Prade was bought by Nicolas Thienpont in 2000. Situated in the commune of Saint Cibard, the vines are planted partly on a limestone plateau and partly on clay/limestone slopes and it is the complexity of these terroirs that gives the wine its subtlety and elegance. 4.3 hectares. 90% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc.


2009 Puygueraud - Cotes de Francs Sale $19.99

The property was acquired by George Thienpont in 1946. Since 1983, Nicolas has been managing the estate. Chateau Puygueraud has since become the benchmark wine for the Cotes de Francs and a reference for the renewal of this still little-known appellation. 35 hectares. 55% Merlot (no more Cabernet Sauvignon with effect from 2005) 25% Cabernet Franc 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 5% Malbec.


2010 Trimoulet - St Emilion Sale $21.99

Chateau Trimoulet has been owned and managed by the Jean family since 1802. 7 hectares. 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in 75%, new French oak for 12 months. Nicolas Thienport has been consulting starting with the 2011 vintage, both in the vineyard and the cellar.


2009 Croix de Beauséjour St Emilion Sale $39.99

Château Beauséjour, formerly fully titled Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, is ranked Premier Grand Cru Classé B in the Classification of Saint-Émilion wine. The Croix de Beauséjour is their second wine.


When the historic estate in its entirety came to Pierre-Paulin Ducarpe, it was divided in 1869 between his two children. The son inherited the half which was sold in 1924 to Dr. Fagouet, altering the name to Château Beauséjour Dr-Fagouet (present day Château Beau-Séjour Bécot) and his daughter who wed Doctor Duffau-Lagarrosse, received what became Château Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. The vineyard area extends 7 hectares with the grape varieties of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

2007 Larcis Ducasse - St Emilion Sale $49.99

The Gratiot family has owned Château Larcis Ducasse, a Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé, for over a century. 2002 was the first vintage produced by Managing Director Nicolas Thienpont.


Stephen Tanzer, www.wineaccess.com (May 08) 89-92/100: Moderately saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black fruits, coffee and mocha, with a whiff of cherry liqueur. Then sweet, round and soft, with noteworthy depth to the black fruit, mineral and licorice flavors. Finishes sweet and long, with ripe, suave tannins and very good breadth. Serious, complex, stylish wine with plenty of shape and energy.

MacArthur Beverages

Find us on: Facebook| Twitter| Instagram| YouTube| Pinterest| Google +| Yelp!
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm
202 338 1433 | www.bassins.com
4877 MacArthur Blvd. N.W. Washington, DC 20007

David Suire, Henri Lurton and Ernst Loosen

Thanks David for swinging by. This little corner in the back of MacArthur Beverages has seen quite a number of prominent winemakers before your tasting, including, for instance, Henri Lurton from Brane Cantenac and Ernst Loosen from Dr. Loosen.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and David Suire at MacArthur Beverages

Picture: Henri Lurton and Christian G.E.Schiller at MacArthur Beverages

See:
Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac Wines

Picture: Ernst Loosen and Christian G.E.Schiller at MacArthur Beverages

See:
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Henri Lurton and his Château Brane-Cantenac Wines

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

Winemakers from Around the World at Straits Wine Company’s Wine Fiesta 2014 in Singapore

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: With Bettina Keller at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

During the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), we had two long luncheons at 1 star Michelin restaurants: At Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier and at the legendary Restaurant Schwarzer Adler of Fritz Keller in Oberbergen.

Picture: Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

This posting covers the luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, with Weingut Franz Keller wines. I have already reported about the spectacular luncheon cum wine tasting at Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Neuweier here:
Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Before the lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, we joined Fritz Keller at his winery, where he showed us around and treated us to a wine tasting that included 10 wines, compared with the 4 wines that had been planned. I have already reported about the tour and tasting with Fritz Keller here:
Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Picture: Tasting with Fritz Keller at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen

The Keller Family

With the Keller family, which can trace its roots as winemakers and hoteliers back to the Thirty Year War in the early 17-hundreds, everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma, parents of the current owner, were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than forty years ago. Well beyond the immediate post WWII era, the urge to simply have enough food on the table – quantity over quality- lingered on. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star, which the restaurant defends until today. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

The Fritz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Picture: Fritz Keller at our Table

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Pictures: Bettina Keller at our Table

Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Schwarzer Adler is a truly iconic restaurant that has been founded by Franz Keller. In the 1 star Michelin category, this traditional restaurant offers a harmonious mix of Baden country charm and elegance. The menu is a successful marriage of French and German cuisine reflecting the frontier on the nearby Rhine River, which is the border between Germany and France. The impressive wine list boasts 2 600 different wines, including a good selection of bottles from both Baden and France.

Pictures: Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

Fritz Keller: Elegance, style and hospitality with a perceptible French influence create an unmistakable ambiance at our Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. In the kitchens of master chef Anibal Strubinger and Hubert Pfingstag nearby France is as present as the much-lauded local Baden cuisine. The combination of both these influences at the very highest level forms the culinary character of the house.

When I got interested in “fine dining” in the 1970s, Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen was certainly a place one had to go and eat there. Indeed, we did this many times over the years.

Pictures: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen with Head Sommeliere Melanie Wagner during an earlier Visit

Other Restaurants and Hotel Schwarzer Adler

Rebstock is a more basic restaurant, just across the street of the Schwarzer Adler, which has of course different food, but the same wine list as the Schwarzer Adler. The KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery, half a mile down the road from the Schwarzer Adler.

Hotel Schwarzer Adler belongs to the group “Small Luxory Hotels in the World”. It is in the main building, where the restaurant Schwarzer Adler is and also has some rooms in a separate building.

Luncheon at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

The wines were selected by Melanie Wagner. She has been Head Sommeliere at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler since 2005. In 2010, she was Germany's Sommelier of the Year (Gault Millau)

Sekt: 2006 Franz Keller Chardonnay
Greetings from the Kitchen


Hausgeräucherter “Label-Rouge” Lachs mit Gurkenrelish und Avocadocreme
Home-smoked “Label-Rouge” salmon with cucumber relish and avocado cream
2013 Franz Keller Silvaner "Alte Rebe"


Kabeljau unter der Kräuterkruste auf Kalamansi-Sauce und Schwarzem Venere-Risotto
Codfish with a crust of herbs, calamansi-sauce and black venere-risotto
2013 Selection S Weisburgunder


Brust von der Wildente mit Holunderbeerensauce, Gemüse, Selleriepüree und Spätzle
Breast of the wild duck with elderberry sauce, vegetables, celery puree and Spätzle
2010 Franz Anton Spätburgunder
2007 Oberberger Bassgeige Spätburgunder


Crème Brulee vom Epoisses
Crème brulee of epoisses
2011 Oberberger Bassgeige Ruländer Auslese


Apfel-Karamell-Dome mit Malagaeis und Apfelgelee
Dome of apples and caramel with Malaga icecream and apple jelly
2011 Oberberger Bassgeige Müller-Thurgau Beerenauslese


Petits Fours


Group Picture

An outstanding luncheon.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Germany's Top 27 Winemakers: 5 out of 5 Grapes - Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil at Weingut Robert Weil

There are 4 Wine Guides in Germany: Gault Millau, Feinschmecker, Eichelmann and Falstaff. These are all annual guides, which are released around November/December.

The Eichelmann guide uses stars to rate winemakers. The best producers get 5 stars in the Eichelmann WeinGuide.

Eichelmann WeinGuide: 5 out of 5 Stars

27 producers received the maximum of 5 out of 5 stars in the Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. The number is up by 1 from last year, on account of 2 promotions and 1 demotion. Weingut Gerhard Aldinger (Württemberg) and Weingut Schloss Lieser (Mosel) were promoted to the 5 stars category and Weingut Willi Schaefer (Mosel) was demoted

Interestingly, the list of winemakers from Baden is relatively long in the Eichelmann ranking and the list of winemakers from the Pfalz extremely short. The following wine regions do not appear in the list below, i.e. there is no winemaker with 5 stars: Mittelrhein, Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Hessische Bergstrasse.

Interestingly, elsewhere regarded as superstars, Weingut JJ Prüm and Weingut Egon Müller from the Mosel region, both known for their ultra-premium sweet style wines, are not in Eichelmann's 5 stars group of winemakers.

See:
Germany’s 26 Top Winemakers - Eichelmann WeinGuide Deutschland 2014
Germany’s Best Winemakers (5 Stars) - Eichelmann WeinGuide 2013

Ahr

Meyer-Näkel

Picture: Doerte Näkel and Christian G.E. Schiller at the 2014 Weinbörse in Mainz

See:
Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Jean Stodden

Picture: Friedrich Becker from Weingut Becker in the Pfalz, Werner Naekel from Weingut Meyer-Naekel in the Ahr and Ludwig Kreuzberg from Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in the Ahr (from right to left, in Berlin)

Baden

Bercher

Dr. Heger

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim Heger

See:
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Berhard Huber

Picture: Julian Huber and Barbara Huber, Weingut Bernhard Huber, in Mainz

See:
One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Franz Keller (Schwarzer Adler)

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Fritz Keller

See:
Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

Michel

Seeger

Franken

Rudolf Fürst

Picture: Paul Fürst, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Guiseppe Lauria (Gault Millau) at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau (2014)

Luckert – Zehnthof

Horst Sauer

Mosel

Clemens Busch

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Clemens Busch and Christian G.E. Schiller in Washington DC, USA

See:
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Clüsserath-Weiler

Markus Molitor

Picture: Markus Molitor and Thomas Haag (Schloss Lieser)

Schloss Lieser

Picture: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, and Christian G.E. Schiller

See:
Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Nahe

Dönnhoff

Pictures: Tasting with Helmut Doennhoff

See:
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Emrich-Schönleber

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Werner Schoenleber, Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber at the 2013 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Schäfer-Fröhlich

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Tim Froehlich, Weingut Schaefer-Froehlich, in Wiesbaden

Pfalz

Knipser

Rheingau

Georg Breuer

Picture: Theresa Breuer and Christian G.E. Schiller in New York City

See:
Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Peter Jakob Kühn

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Peter Jakob Kuehn, with Peter Bernhard Kuehn, at the 2013 Rheingau Open

See:
A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Leitz

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Johannes Leitz and his Wife at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

See:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Robert Weil

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, at Weingut Robert Weil

See also:
Weingut Robert Weil Goes Facebook, Germany

Rheinhessen

Klaus Keller

Picture: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller, Weingut Keller, with Stephan Attmann, Weingut von Winning, in Mainz

Wittmann

Picture: Philipp Wittmann Receiving the Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

See:
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Württemberg

Gerhard Aldinger

Dautel

Pictures: Ernst Dautel, Christian Dautel and Christian Schiller at Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg

See:
Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg– A Profile, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

See also:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013  

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Kuenstler, Meyer-Naekel, Wirsching – Winemaker Dinner at Kronenschlösschen in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany 

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Weingut Dautel in Wuerttemberg– A Profile, Germany

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Congressmen Earl Blumenauer (OR-03) and Chris Collins (NY-27) introduced the bipartisan Cider Industry Deserves Equal Regulation (CIDER) Act, USA

$
0
0
United States House of Representatives


Rep. Blumenauer and Rep. Collins Reintroduce CIDER Act

Washington, DC, January 28, 2015 – Today, Congressmen Earl Blumenauer (OR-03) and Chris Collins (NY-27) introduced the bipartisan Cider Industry Deserves Equal Regulation (CIDER) Act.  The Act, HR 600, would amend the section of the tax code that deals with wine and related beverages, 26 USC § 5041, to support the growing number of craft and entrepreneurial cider makers, and tailor IRS rules to reflect variations in craft ciders across the country.

During the fermentation process, a variety of factors can lead to small changes in the composition of a cider’s alcohol content and carbonation. Because of the narrow way that hard cider is currently defined in the tax code, these small variations can lead to cider being taxed at a rate fifteen times higher than what the statute clearly intended. The Blumenauer-Collins bill would update the tax definitions to greatly reduce the chance that improper taxation could occur.  The bill would also broaden the definition to include both pear and apple ciders.

“Cider making is sometimes closer to an art than a science,” said Blumenauer.  “As the American apple and pear hard cider industry becomes more prominent on the world stage, and cider becomes a beverage choice for more Americans’ developing palettes, we need to ensure that cideries have every opportunity to expand and meet the needs of this growing market without an unfair tax burden.”

“I am proud to introduce legislation that will support our nation’s apple growers and cider makers,” said Collins. “The CIDER Act will help spur growth in these industries by restructuring taxes to fairer rates that take into account the natural variations in the cider making process.  I thank Representative Blumenauer for joining me in this goal to reduce burdens on small businesses and simplify our tax code” said Congressman Chris Collins.

"Confusing regulations and contradictory enforcement of rules is the name of the game for startup and experienced cidermakers alike,” said Nat West, owner of Reverend Nat’s Hard Cider in Portland. “The cider industry is growing astoundingly fast, with Oregon and the Northwest being a hotbed. With clear regulations and a tax structure that mirrors the real world of this agricultural product, we will expand quickly and make ciders that people want to drink."

The changes proposed by Congressman Blumenauer and Collins will update the existing federal definition of cider to better reflect the industry and keep American cider competitive in the international marketplace. Production nationally has been robust, more than tripling from 9.4 million gallons in 2011 to 32 million gallons in 2013. Cider revenues in the U.S. have been just as impressive, tripling from $178 million in 2007 to $601 million in 2012.

"We are very pleased that Congressmen Blumenauer and Collins are working to assist cideries--not only in our part of the country, but nationally as well,” said Sherrye Wyatt, Executive Director of the Northwest Cider Association, which represents cideries in Washington, Oregon, Montana, Idaho, and British Columbia. “These Main Street small businesses are ready to expand their capacity to keep up with strong demand, create jobs, and become a key component of the country’s economic recovery. With tremendous growth, it's an unprecedented time in the Northwest cider industry.  We need to remove any barriers which may prevent cider from realizing its greatest potential and write a new chapter in history."

“Today, Congressmen Blumenauer and Collins took a critical first step towards making the United States hard cider industry more competitive internationally and treated more fairly under the tax code,” said Mike Beck, President of the United States Association of Cider Makers (USACM). “Our industry has tripled in size since 2007 and the existing tax structure is insufficient to deal with this growth.  As a result, the potential to stunt this surge exists, and HR 600 will remedy this problem.  On behalf of the United States Association of Cider Makers, I am pleased to fully endorse this legislation and pledge our grassroots efforts to this legislation’s success.”

Rep. Blumenauer will be addressing the 2015 Cider Convention on February 6th in Chicago.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

Impressions from the Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In an Apple Wine (Cider) Mecca: The Apple Wine Bistrorant Landsteiner Muehle of Apple Wine Sommelier Michael Stoeckl near Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: At Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau

Some of the events of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014) focused exclusively on wine. Others focused on other aspects, notably art, history and food. The visit of the Eberbach Abbey was one of those, where wine was important, but art and history were at the center.

The visit at Kloster Eberbach comprised 3 elements: Lunch at the Tavern of Kloster Eberbach, a guided tour of the abbey and a wine tasting.

Following the visit of Kloster Eberbach, we walked about a mile to the famous Steinberg vineyard, where we took a quick look at the new winery of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and sat down in the Steinberg vineyard with many other Sunday visitors from the Greater Frankfurt am Main area and had a couple of glasses of wine from the Steinberg vineyard. I will report in a separate posting about the visit of the Steinberg vineyard.

Picture: Arriving at Kloster Eberbach

Kloster Eberbach

The Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine river.

Today, the Eberbach Abbey is a large State-owned winery (the State of Hessen is its proprietor) and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive.

Pictures: Kloster Eberbach

Most of the vineyard holdings of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach date back to the 12th centuries, when Cistercian monks founded the Eberbach Abbey. The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe.

The Abbey, including its vineyards, was secularised under Napoleon in 1803. The new owner was the Duke of Nassau. Then, from 1866, Prussia became the owner of the Abbey and its vineyards. Finally, in 1945 after World War II, the Federal State of Hessen took it over.

Pictures: Lunch at Kloster Eberbach

We got an in-depth tour of the Abbey, including the visit of the old monk’s dormitory where every year the famous auction of premium German wines takes place. A very special treat was a peek into the treasure chamber, where century old wine bottles are still stored and where the movie “The Name of the Rose” with Sean Connery was filmed in 1986.

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach

The Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach serves as an umbrella organization for seven individual wine estates, including 3 wine producing facilities and cellars:

The Bensheim Estate is the only one located in the Hessische Bergstraße wine-growing region. Grand Duke of Hessen-Darmstadt founded this Estate in 1904, the vineyard holdings total 38 hectares. The main grape variety planted is Riesling (25 ha), as well as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

Pictures: A Tour of Kloster Eberbach

The red wine Estate Assmannshausen at the western edge of the Rheingau has a vineyard area of 27 hectares in the Höllenberg site, of which 25 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir. These two Estates do their own bottling, and market the wines under their own names.

 Pictures: Old Presses

The Hattenheim Estate (50 ha vineyard area in the Engelmannsberg, Siegelsberg and Marcobrunn sites).

The Hochheim Estate.

The Rauenthal Estate (48 ha in the Baiken and Wülfen sites).

The Rüdesheim Estate (23 ha in the Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland and Berg Schlossberg sites).

The Steinberg (32 ha, a monopole holding).

The total vineyard area of the 7 estates comes to more than 200 hectares, of which 85% are planted with Riesling, 10% with Pinot Noir and 5% with other varieties.

Pictures: Wine Tasting at Kloster Eberbach, including a 1971 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese

A few years ago, the Hessische Staatsweingüter built a new winemaking facility and celler just outside the wall of Steinberg, the Steinbergkeller. The Steinbergkeller – a state of the art winery - was a very controversial project. It was constructed for several 100 million Euro.

Next Stop: Steinberg Vineyard

Following the visit of Kloster Eberbach, we walked about a mile to the famous Steinberg vineyard, where we took a quick look at the new winery of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and sat down in the Steinberg vineyard with many other Sunday visitors from the Greater Frankfurt am Main area and had a couple of glasses of wine from the Steinberg vineyard.

Picture: Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Kloster Eberbach)

Riesling Gala 2014 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany

In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany

Steinberger Riesling 1893 from Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Germany to San Francisco in California, USA

Visit of (and Wine Tasting at) Vinattieri Ticinesi, Ticino, Switzerland

$
0
0
Picture: The Group at Vinattieri Ticinesi

As part of the 2014 Digitul Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland, I explored the wines of Ticino during a post-conference press trip. This posting – Visit of (and Wine Tasting at) Vinattieri Ticinesi, Ticino, Switzerland - is the eight in a series of postings (see below) emanating from my visit of Ticino.

See also:
Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland
Touring (and Tasting the Wines of) Brivio Vini SA and Gialdi Vini SA in Mendrisio, Ticono, with Guido Brivio, Switzerland
Polenta and Ticino Wine at Grotto Bundi in Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting Cantina Kopp von der Crone Visini and Tasting with Barbara von der Crone and Paolo Visini in Barbengo, Ticino, Switzerland
Visiting (and Tasting the Wines of) Tamborini SA and Lunch with Valentina Tamborini, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring and Tasting the Wines of Vini e Distillati Angelo Delea SA, with David Delea, Switzerland
Visiting Azienda Mondo in Ticini, Switzerland
Visit of (and Wine Tasting at) Vinattieri Ticinesi, Ticino, Switzerland
Touring an Tasting the Wines of Agriloro SA and Diner with Owner Meinrad Perler, Switzerland
Lunch at Ristorante Montalbano in Stabio, Switzerland

Wine Producer Switzerland

Switzerland is a small wine producer with about 15 000 hectares of vineyards only. This is about 15 percent of Germany’s total winegrowing area and a bit more than 1 percent of that of Spain. Only less than 2% of the wine is exported, mainly to Germany.

Switzerland's particular situation - in between four wine-producing nations (France, Italy, Germany and Austria) and itself divided into four different areas with different languages and traditions - has resulted in an extreme diversity of its wines.


Picture: Map of Switzerland

Switzerland has an extensive range of grape varieties. Among the white grapes, the Chasselas is the most widespread. Müller-Thurgau, cultivated above all in the German speaking part of Switzerland, and Sylvaner are also popular. The main red grape varieties are Pinot Noir, which can be found in all the wine-producing regions of Switzerland, and Gamay, which predominates in the Valais; Merlot has found a second home in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland, the Ticino.

Ticino

Ticino is a quite distinct winemaking zone in Switzerland, totaling 1000 hectares. The canton Ticino (and the wine region Tecino) is divided into two regions by the dividing line of the Monte Ceneri Pass: Sopraceneri in the north and Sottoceneri in the south. The Sopraceneri soils are rather stony with a full complement of silt and sand, while the Sottoceneri soils are limestone and deep, rich clays. Ticino's climate is Mediterranean.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, and Christian G.E. Schiller in Lugano

There are a total of about 3600 grape growers in Ticino and 200 or so winemakers, including a co-operative. The 200 or so winemakers range from pure negociant-type producer (who buy all the grapes the use for their wine) to winemakers that only use their own grapes for making wine. Vineyards are generally small, steep plots of between 3 ha and 6 ha and yields are at 70 hl/ha. 15 winemakers account for about 80% of the total production. The co-op produces 1 million bottles annually.

Merlot is the dominant grape variety. The Ticino Merlot ranges from easy drinking, including white, Merlots to ultra-premium Merlots that can compete with the best in the world (including Bordeaux) and cost US$50 to US$150 per bottle.

Vinattieri Ticinesi

Vinattieri Ticinesi is a large grower/negociant producer, owned by Luigi Zanini and his son Luigi jun. Zanini.

Luigi Zanini’s story is the story of a “dish washer becoming a millionaire”. He was borne in Italy. In 1957 at the young age of 17, he came to Ticino and started to work as a junior employee of a soda producer. 7 years later, in 1964, he moved into the wine business and founded a wine trading company - Zanini & Sulmoni SA – which today still accounts for ¾ of the overall turnover.

Wine making moved to the fore, when he founded with his son Luigi jun. Vinattieri Ticinese SA in 1985. Many call Luigi Zanini the father of the premium Merlot del Ticino wines.

Pictures: Vinattieri Ticinesi

In 1988, Luigi Zanini built Castello Luigi, a neoclassical castle, and started to produce Castello Luigi Rosso, arguably one of the best Merlots of Switzerland and a top Merlot by world standards. For Luigi Zanini, we heard, Castello Luigi is the culmination of his work and his career. We did not have a chance to visit Castello Luigi and its impressive winemaking facilities, but were lucky to taste the wine, both the red and the white wine.

Today, Vinattieri Ticines manages about 100 hectares of vineyards, compared with 30 hectares 10 years earlier. Annual production is 50.000 cases.

Tasting

Pictures: Tasting

2013 Vinattieri Bianco Sfr. 24

Ticino DOC, Merlot 100%
The Vinattieri is produced since 1985. Output decreased from initially 25,000 to now 10,000 bottles a year, with yields much lower since 1995.

2012 Ronco dell’Angelo Sfr. 26

Ticino Doc, Merlot 100%, the label was designed by the Swiss architect Mario Botta, vinification in wooden vats of 4000 liters, aging for 18 months partly in barriques and partly in wooden vats of 4000 liters, annual production of about 20,000 bottles

2012 Roncaia Riserva Sfr. 24

Ticino DOC, Merlot 100%, vinification in wooden vats of 4000 liters, aging for 18 months partly in barriques and partly in wooden vats of 4000 liters


2011 Ligornetto Sfr. 45

2012 Ligornetto

Ticino Doc, Merlot 100%, from vineyards in the village Ligornetto, vinification in wooden vats, ageing 18 months in new oak barrels, 25,000 bottles a year

2011 Trevigne Sfr. 35


2009 Vinattieri

2011 Vinattieri Luna Sfr. 150


2011 Castello Luigi Sfr. 125

2012 Castello Luigi Bianco Sfr. 110


schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

The 2014 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Switzerland 

The Wines of Weingut Saxer, a Winemaker in the German-speaking part of Switzerland

The Wines of Switzerland– Grand Tasting with (and Introduction to Swiss Wines by) Jancis Robinson and José Vouillamoz 

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller and Sommelier Paul Grieco (Terroir, Summer of Riesling) at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York City, USA

Rieslingfeier is an annual two-day event in New York City that celebrates German Riesling. The cornerstone event is the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner. Inspired by Daniel Johnnes’ famous Burgundy fête “La Paulée,” it is very likely the greatest German wine "BYOB" dinner in the world, with both winemakers and guests bringing special bottles from their cellars to share. Side events, specialized seminars and retail tastings round out the yearly Rieslingfeier program. Rieslingfeier is orchestrated by Stephen Bitterolf of the vom Boden wine importing company.

Picture: New York City

This year, Rieslingfeier took place on the Friday, January 30 and Saturday, January 31. 11 winemakers attended, all belonging to the elite of German winemakers, including world stars like Klaus Peter Keller, Egon Müller and Johannes Leitz.

This posting is part of a series covering the 2015 Rieslingfeier; it provides an overview. Here is a list of all postings:

Coming-up: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 – Riesling Crawl, USA
Rieslingfeier 2015 – Gala Dinner, USA
The Winemakers of the Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Most of the photos are mine. I also used a few photos which Roman Niewodniczanski of Weingut Van Volxem put on his facebook page. Thank you very much Roman.

Joining

Annette Schiller, who organizes wines tours (ombiasyPR and WineTours), and Christian Schiller, who blogs on schiller-wine, joined the 2015 celebration of German Riesling. We were happy to meet the participating German elite winemakers. Many of them we know personally. Some of them we call our friends.

The visit of Weingut Selbach-Oster was one of the highlights of the Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014). The 3 forthcoming Germany Wine Tours in 2015 include tastings with Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Klaus Peter and Julia Keller, Weingut Keller and Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in addition to many other elite wine producers, including some not yet well known outside of Germany.

See:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Johannes Leitz and his Wife at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

Picture: Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014 at Weingut Selbach-Oster with Johannes Selbach

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, with Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, in Frankfurt, Germany

Rieslingfeier Welcome Party

To welcome the Riesingfeier 2015 participants, the trendy wine bar Corkbuzz Chelsea hosted a late-night BYOR soirée on Friday, January 30th. This was a great opportunity to mingle and celebrate the kickoff of the Rieslingfeier 2015 with winemakers, trade people and German wine lovers, who came from all parts of the country.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller with Christian Vogt, Weingut Karthäuserhof, Mosel (Ruwer), Eva Fricke, Weingut Eva Fricke, Rheingau and Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mosel

Rieslingfeier Seminars

The series of Rieslingfeier seminars provided German wine freaks the opportunity to cover a Riesling topic for 90 minutes in depth with 3 winemakers. All Rieslingfeier seminars took place at The Modern. There were 3 seminars, all sold out:

Terroir, Riesling and the Rhein - with Eva Fricke, Keller, Leitz. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Saar Diversity - with Hofgut Falkenstein, Van Volxem, Zilliken. Moderator: David Schildknecht

What is a Kabinett? - with Karthäuserhof, Egon Müller, Selbach-Oster. Moderators: John Gilman and Stephen Bitterolf

Riesling Reborn – with Immich-Betterieberg, with Van Volxem, Von Winning. Moderator: David Schildknecht

Seminar: Riesling Reborn

Roman Niewodniczanski on his facebook page: Surrounded by world-famous sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Alberto Giacometti, Henry Moore, and Auguste Rodin, the seminars of the third annual Rieslingfeier were held in The Modern, a restaurant located in MoMA. Together with the former winemaker of Van Volxem Gernot Kollmann (Immich-Batterieberg) and Andreas Hütwohl (von Winning), I was allowed to talk about the rich history of German wines in front of a crowd of sommeliers, wine merchants, and journalists. The seminar was called “Riesling Reborn.” The wine critic David Schildknecht, who is one of the most knowledgeable experts on German wines and who previously wrote for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, was the moderator. Interested guests were surprised to learn that even the famous wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux (Romanée-Conti, Latour, and Margaux, among others) were offered for less money at New York luxury hotels, such as the Ritz-Carlton or Waldorf Astoria, in the 1930s.

Pictures: Annette Schiller with David Schildknecht, Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mosel, and Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut Von Winning, Pfalz

Riesling Crawl

The Riesling Crawl was a free and open-to-the-public tasting, pairing the attending German winemakers with several of New York’s top German wine retailers on Saturday, January 31.

Picture: Riesling Crawl

12:30-2:30pm: Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken
Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street

Pictures: Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken at Astor Wines & Spirits, 399 Lafayette Street

12:30-2:30pm: Johannes Weber (Hofgut Falkenstein)
Chambers Street Wines, 148 Chambers Street

12:30-2:30pm: Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof)
Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway

Pictures: Johannes Selbach (Selbach-Oster) and Christian Vogt (Karthäuserhof) at Flatiron Wines & Spirits, 929 Broadway

2:30-4:30pm: Roman Niewodniczanski
Back Label Wine Merchants, 111 West 20th Street

2:30-4:30pm: Andreas Hütwohl (Von Winning) and Gernot Kollmann (Immich-Batterieberg)
Crush Wines & Spirits, 153 East 57th Street

2:30-4:30pm: Klaus Peter Keller
Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street

Pictures: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller with Timo Seiwert (Pinard de Picard) at Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street, with David Schildknecht, Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller

2:30-4:30pm: Eva Fricke and Johannes Leitz
Union Square Wines, 140 Fourth Avenue at 13th Street

Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner 2015

This year, the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner took place at the Reynard in the Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn, on Saturday, January 31.

Picture: Wythe Hotel in Brooklyn

There were 11 tables with 1 winemaker and 10 guests at each table. The five course meal was customized by Reynard’s Chef Sean Rembold to pair with dry and off-dry Riesling. The wine service was presided over by Rieslingfeier Chef Sommelier Raj Vaidya along with a group of the country's top sommeliers.

 Picture: Stephen Bitterolf Opening the Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner

My wife Annette Schiller was sitting at the table of Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, while I was sitting at the table of Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz. At each table, about 20 wines were served. At my table, Paul Grieco (Hearth / Terroirs) and Juliette Pope (Gramercy Tavern) were pouring the wines.

Pictures: Rieslingfeier Gala Dinner - the Tables of Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Klaus Peter  Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Mosel (Saar), Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, Mosel (Saar) and Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Rheingau

All the wines were outstanding, but some of them were out of this world. You could walk to other tables and taste the wines poured there. Guests and winemakers also walked around and shared the wines with other people.

Picture: David Schildknecht and Annette Schiller

Picture: Johannes and Barbara Selbach and Annette Schiller

Picture: Annette Schiller, Julia Keller, Klaus Peter Keller

Picture: Germany-based Retailer Timo Seiwert and Klaus Peter and Julia Keller

Picture: Egon Müller Pouring

Picture: Kluas Peter Keller Pouring G Max 2012

Picture: Dan Weber (Schatzi Wines), Eva Fricke, Johannes Leitz, Paul Grieco

Picture: Egon Müller and Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem

Picture: Volker Donabaum (Importer), Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar)and Paul Grieco

Picture: Somlier Aldo Sohm (Le Bernadin/Aldo Sohm Wine Bar) and Christian Schiller

Rieslingfeier Charity Auction

This year, there was for the first time a live charity auction during the dinner, with all proceeds going to benefit City Harvest. Each attending winemaker contributed a very special bottle. The wines were organized into three lots.

Pictures: The Auction

Lot 1: 40 Years of Moselle, 1959-1999: 1999 Falkenstein Euchariusberg Auslese, 1983 Zilliken Rausch Beerenauslese, 1976 Selbach-Oster Domprobst Auslese, 1959 Immich-Batterieberg Auslese

Lot 2: Rheingau, Ruwer and Saar: 2002 Leitz Kirchenpfad Beerenauslese, 1999 Karthäuserhof Auslese #23, 1993 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Beerenauslese

Lot 3: Dry Riesling Rarities: 2008 Von Winning Jesuitgarten, 2006 Keller G-Max, 2006 Eva Fricke Krone Auslese Trocken, 2011 Van Volxem Gottesfuss 1.5L

Lot 1 was auction off for US$ 3400, Lot 2 for US$ 2600 and Lot 3 for US$ 2400.

Winemakers

Picture: Standing: Johannes Weber, Hofgut Falkenstein, Mosel (Saar), Christian Vogt, Weingut Karthäuserhof, Mosel (Ruwer), Klaus Peter  Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen, Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Mose,Egon Müller, Weingut Egon Müller, Mosel (Saar)
Sitting: Johannes Selbach, Weingut Selbach-Oster, Mosel, Julia Keller, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen
Eva Fricke, Weingut Eva Fricke, Rheingau
Not on the Picture: Johannes Leitz, Weingut Josef Leitz, Rheingau, Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), Andreas Hütwohl, Weingut Von Winning, Pfalz, Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Mosel (Saar)

Sommeliers

Picture: The Sommeliers

Rieslingfeier Chef Sommelier Raj Vaidya (Daniel), Andrew Algren (Alinea, Chicago), Ryan Arnold (LEYE, Chicago), Bryn Birkhahn (Pearl & Ash), Michelle Biscieglia (Blue Hill), Levi Dalton (I'll Drink to That), Michael Engelmann (The Modern), Raphael Ginsburg (Ai Fiori), Paul Grieco (Hearth / Terroirs), Michael Madrigale (Bar Boulud / Boulud Sud), Laura Maniec (Corkbuzz), Thomas Pastuszak (NoMad), Juliette Pope (Gramercy Tavern), Eric Railsback (Lieu Dit Winery), Jarred Roth (Riverpark), Michael Scaffidi (Union Square Cafe), Amanda Smeltz (Roberta's and Blanca), Michele Smith (Brooklyn Fare), Aldo Sohm (Le Bernardin / Aldo Sohm Wine Bar), Jeff Taylor (Betony), Mia Van de Water (North End Grill), Dustin Wilson (Eleven Madison Park), Hristo Zisovski (AltaMarea)

Stephen Bitterolf

Rieslingfeier was founded in 2012 by Stephen Bitterolf, a passionate advocate for Germany's culture of winemaking. He was the Wine Director at Crush Wine & Spirits in New York where he helped develop one of the largest German wine programs in the country before founding his own import company, vom Boden.

Picture: Stephen Bitterolf, Johannes Leitz, Eva Fricke

Picture: Roman Niewodniczanski, Weingut Van Volxem, Mosel (Saar), David Weitzenhoffer (Importer) and Stephen Bitterolf

Side Events

In addition to the official program, there were also a number of side events. There was, for instance, a winemaker dinner with Johannes Leitz on Friday, January 31, at CorkBuzz Chelsea. Klaus Peter and Julia Keller told me that they presented their wines to a group of sommeliers on Thursday, January 30 at Thomas Keller’s Per Se Restaurant, followed by a winemaker dinner jointly with Egon Müller at Eric Rippert’s Le Bernadin on Friday, January 31.

Pictures: Egon Müller and Klaus Peter Keller at Le Bernadin

Next Year

We are looking forward to the Rieslingfeier in 2016.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with a Weingut Leitz Wine

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim– Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany 


Wine Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: Arriving at Weingut Bernhard Huber

Recently, Der Feinschmecker, the leading German food and wine journal, carried an article about German red wine. Its message was that Germany had established itself as a serious red wine country during the past 30 years. Der Feinschmecker portraits 10 winemakers behind this wine revolution. One of them was Bernhard Huber. It is not for no reason that he was Gault Millau’s wine producer of the year in 2007.

Bernhard Huber, only 53 years old, died in June 2014, a few months before our visit, after a battle with cancer. His wife Barbara wrote us in a moving email that she and their children try to keep Bernhard Huber's vision of wine making alive and that they will continue to produce top quality wines.

Picture: Julian and Barbara Huber at the 2014 Gault Millau Awards Ceremony in Mainz, see: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

The visit to Weingut Bernhard Huber focused very much on the outstanding wines of Weingut Huber. My friend and wine critic Panos Kakaviatos visited Weingut Huber a few months before us and tasted most of the wines we tasted. I am copying his tasting notes. For the whole posting of Panos Kakaviatos, go here on his blog Wine-Chronicles.

See also:
One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Weingut Huber

The Huber Estate is located in Malterdingen in the Breisgau area. More than 700 years ago, Cistercian monks came to Malterdingen, and found the same terroir as in Burgundy and thus started to plant Pinot Noir grapes. Still today, in many reference books on grape varieties, “Malterdinger” is used as a synonym for Pinot Noir.

Although the vineyard has been in the family for several generations, Bernhard and Barbara first began estate bottling, when they took control in 1987 from his father. Before that, grapes and wine were sold to a local cooperative.

Picture: At Weingut Bernhard Huber

In 2004 Bernhard Huber started “Reserve” wines bottled from vineyards individually. Before that, his top wine was a mix of vineyard sites.

The vineyard area totals 26 hectares, with holdings in the Bienenberg (Malterdingen), Schlossberg (Hecklingen) and Sommerhalde (Bombach) sites. 70 % is planted with Pinot Noir, the rest with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Freisamer, Muskateller, Müller-Thurgau, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The red wines always ferment on the skin and lay in the oak barrel for up to 18 months before bottling. Weingut Huber has about 600 barrique barrels and replaces about 150 barrels each year.
Weingut Huber also produces sparkling wine – brut, of course, for Euro 16.50.

A lot of the wines are in the 20, 30 or 40 Euro category. Weingut Huber is clearly interested in super premium wines and not in day-to-day easy drinking wines. Wine critic Panos Kakaviatos: Although the price tag is (very) steep for people not familiar with quality German Pinot (over 100 euros per bottle), the Wildenstein 2011, coming from just over 2 hectares of vines, exuded vivid perfumed violet and lead pencil – a very elegant yet concentrated wine that beguiles winelovers. It was easily the best German Pinot Noir I have ever tasted and I want to put it into a blind tasting of top Burgundies and see how it does.

The Huber Estate is a member of the VDP and the Deutsches Barrique-Forum association.

Picture: Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber

Tasting Notes (Panos Kakaviatos)

2011 Spätburgunder Euro 12,80

Baden Spätburgunder 2011: Made from yields of about 60 to 65 hectolitres per hectare for this intro wine, from 3- to 12-old vines. The malolactic is done in older 225 litre barrels. Has ripe and light cherry notes, a touch of warmth, as 2011 was a warmer than average year. Fine tannic structure. Concentration coming from a flowering that was cool leading to some shattering and small, concentrated berries – so a less than average sized crop.

2011 Malterdinger Spätburgunder Euro 16,80

Malterdinger Spätburgunder 2011: Lower yields at 50-55 hectolitres per hectare, made from older vines between 12-25 years old. Unfiltered. A different clone used which explains a noticeably lighter colour – and a rather tart style. Is it just a bit wound up? 13.5 alcohol. The back label was in Japanese – so a bottle meant for the Japanese market.

2011 Spätburgunder Alte Reben Euro 27,00

Alte Reben Spätburgunder 2011: A noticeable step above this old vine Pinot Noir, made from 25- to 60-year old vines. It clocks in at about 13% alcohol, with 35 to 38 hectolitres per hectare. It is aged 9 to 10 months in new oak then racked into one-year old barrels. There is a touch of sweetness from the new oak but mostly harmonious. It has an elegant cherry fruit expression with some creamy elements. The palate conveys tannin and structure, but a smooth velvet like aspect. I noticed a different cork, and Huber explained that he spends about €1.30 per cork, not including vat tax and he buys corks from different producers to limit risk of TCA taint. I love the red label of this wine as well – it is a cool looking label that he has used since 1990. I bought three bottles of this Pinot Noir for €27 per bottle.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Panos Kakaviatos in Germany at Weingut Schaetzel

See:
Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

2011 Bienenberg Spätburgunder GG Euro 40,00

Bienenberg Spätburgunder “R” GG 2011: A €40 bottle that exhibits racy elegance. The GG stands for great growth or grand cru. Tobacco and mature fruit, plum spice on the nose lead to graphite and stewed cherry on the palate. Same winemaking as with the Old Vines wine, but slightly lower yields at 30 hectolitres per hectare from 6 prime parcels in the Bienenberg vineyard. As much as I liked the attack and the mid palate, the wine seems to have a bit of a tannic wall on finish… Give it time!

2011 Sommerhalde Spätburgunder GG Euro 40,00

Sommerhalde Spätburgunder “R” GG 2011: Another great growth, also from five parcels but the main one is facing the Black Forest, so a cooler terroir – probably good in a warmish vintage like 2011. I preferred this to the previous wine and it sells for the same price. Really smooth expression of ripe black cherry and a real creaminess here enveloping serious tannic backbone for a longer haul.

2011 Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG Euro 55,00

Schlossberg Spätburgunder “R” GG 2011: Nothing to do with the first Alsace Grand Cru of the same name, this wine costs €55 bottle and comes from the very best slopes of the Schlossberg which all belong to Huber, who bought his plots in 1995. Made from whole clusters up to 90 per cent (previous wines tasted were fermented between 15 and 50 per cent whole cluster). There is plenty of power and tannic bite, which needs time to calm down. It is rich on the palate, concentration, but I could get just a hint of stem-derived flavour. Give this one time.

2011 Wildenstein Spätburgunder Reserve Euro 120,00

Wildenstein Spätburgunder “R” GG 2011: This was certainly a “wow” moment. Much like tasting Hill of Grace amongst other Barossa Valley reds. This did not have the intensity or evident tannic whoosh of the preceding wine but was far more elegant: like perfumed violets and lead. I told Huber that this simply stood out way above the preceding wines. And then I learned how much it cost: €120 for end consumers. Well the price is a bit high, but the wine clearly proves that one can have superb red wine made in Germany.

2011 Hecklinger Schlossberg Chardonnay Reserve Euro 55,00

The Schlossberg Chardonnay “R” 2011, for the same price, is a bit too oaky for me. The yellow colour was a tell-tale sign, after having undergone malolactic in new oak and aged up to 14 months in new oak. Why? Anyway, it would fit the profile for some fans of Chardonnay I suppose. There is enough freshness to make it interesting but I wonder if it would have been more balanced for my taste had it not been aged in 100% new oak or not undergone malo in new oak.

2011 Kenzinger Riesling Kabinett Euro 11,00

Bye-bye

Panos Kakaviatos: All in all a magnificent visit to what is indeed a legendary German domain. Any serious and passionate wine lover who is visiting the Baden region in Germany or Alsace, France should contact the domain and schedule a visit and tasting.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013 

In the Vineyard and the Wine Cellar (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting Luncheon at 1 Star Michelin Röttele's Restaurant im Schloss Neuweier in Baden, with Winemaker Robert Schätzle and his Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Zähringer in Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Winemaker Paulin Köpfer– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombasy (2014)

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein in Baden: Tour and Tasting with Baron Johannes von Gleichenstein– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014), Germany

Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden: Cellar Tour and Tasting with Fritz Keller– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen, with Weingut Franz Keller Wines – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron with Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Vertical Tasting of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron with Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos at Ripple in Washington DC, USA

For the last 6 years, Panos Kakaviatos - based in Strasbourg, France - has organized a Grand Bordeaux tasting in Washington DC in the beginning of the year, when he spends a few weeks in his hometown. This year’s Washington DC Grand Bordeaux Tasting featured Château Pichon-Longueville, co-presented by Technical Director Jean-Rene Matignon and Panos Kakaviatos at Restaurant Ripple.

Pictures: Ripple General Manager and Sommelier Danny Fisher with Jean-Rene Matignon

The evening began at 6:30 pm with Krug 2000 Vintage Champagne, courtesy of Sommeilier and Wine Educator Maria Denton, followed by a five-course meal, prepared by Executive Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley, accompanied by 13 vintages of Château Pichon-Longueville: 1989, 1990 and all vintages in 2000 to 2010 – all orchestrated by Ripple General Manager and Sommelier Danny Fisher.

The company was terrific and included: Dave McIntyre (Washington Post), Mark Wessels (MacArthur Beverages), Ben Giliberti (Calvert Woodley), Michael Sands (Calvert Woodley), Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead – A Wine Blog), to name a few.

For this posting, my wife Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and I split up the work: Annette provided the tasting notes and I did the rest.

As it stands, Annette’s forthcoming Wine Tour by ombiasy to Bordeaux in September later this year does not include a visit of Château Pichon-Longueville Baron. But in view of the very pleasant evening with Jean, Annette might include Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, even including lunch with Jean-Rene Matignon, in the tour (at the expense, of course, of another estate). If you are interested in joining us, contact Annette or me.

See here:
4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller with Jean-Rene Matignon

Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Longueville Baron (often referred to as Pichon Baron) in Pauillac is one of 15 Deuxièmes Crus in the Classification of 1855. It was once part of a larger estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan, along with Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. In 1850 the estate was divided into the two current Pichon estates facing each other as one enters Pauillac along the D2 highway. Since 1987, Jean-Rene Matignon has worked at Pichon Baron as Technical Director. In 1987 the estate was purchased by French insurance company AXA, who immediately appointed Jean-Michel Cazes of Château Lynch-Bages as administrator. The property is currently managed by Christian Seely.

Picture: Château Pichon Longueville Baron

Château Pichon Baron's 73 hectares are situated at the southern end of Pauillac, near border with the Saint-Julien-Beychevelle appellation, and planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (35%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and then macerated for 20-30 days, and fermented at 28-32 °C in temperature controlled stainless steel vats of varying sizes. The wine is transferred into oak barrels for aging after finishing its malolactic fermentation. The estate also produces a second wine, Les Tourelles de Longueville.

Reception

2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut – France, Champagne

Panos Kakaviatos: What a way to start a vertical of Chateau Pichon Baron! Marvelous bubbly. Combines citrusy verve with a creamy mid palate. Fine bubbles, clean aromas of brioche, lemon and lime fruit, subtle notes of red apple and stone fruit, the flavors echo in your palate and the texture is smooth with a full bodied feel that caresses all the while impressing you with substance and corpulence leading to a long and tantalizing finish. (97 pts.)

Pictures: Reception, with Maria Denton, Panos Kakaviatos, Annette Schiller, Michael Sands (Calvert and Woodley), Aaron Nix Gomez (Hogshead – A Wine Blog), Cathrine Todd (Sherry-Lehmann, NYC)

Tasting and Dinner

As referred to above, the tasting notes below are the tasting notes of Annette Schiller. They may also reflect my comments as well as those of Howard Cooper and his wife, as we were sharing a table.

Co-host Panos Kakaviatos as already provided his tasting notes on Wine-Chronicles, as has Aaron Nix-Gomez on Hogshead - A Wine Blog. Aaron’s posting also include remarks byJ Jean-Rene Matignon, which I am re-issuing here.
Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Dinner at Ripple

Panos Kakaviatos summarized the evening as follows: The wines of Pichon Baron have been particularly excellent in recent memory since the 2000 vintage. Their investments in the vineyard and the vat room have borne fruit especially in vintages since 2000. And yet, 1989 and 1990 were both marvelous, made from higher yields. No false notes from any of the 13 vintages enjoyed by assembled merchants, sommeliers, wine bloggers and wine lovers who attended this tasting dinner on a cold January Martin Luther King Day in the nation’s capital. And a word of praise to the relatively weak 2007 vintage, which was charming and very aromatically pleasing for current enjoyment, even though it, too, has Pauillac power, as it should, with tannic structure

First Flight and Course

stuffed bone marrow - caviar, brioche

Vintages: 2006, 2007, 2008

Pictures: stuffed bone marrow - caviar, brioche

Jean-Rene Matignon: In the 2006 vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon was very ripe and the wine shows a lot of minerality. The 2007 vintage experienced a tropical summer with humidity and low ripeness. The fruit was slowly picked. The wine is for drinking now. The 2008 vintage demonstrates a lot of potential. With low yields and a strict selection the production level was low. This wine was assembled in the new cellar, built in 2006, that has more space allowing the lots to be kept separate for a precise selection.

Annette Schiller: 2006: On first sight or better said first sniff, the nose was not very expressive. After some time in the glass, the bouquet opened up a bit, but remained restraint. It was on the palate where the wine surprised. The wine had lots of substance, was well structures and I felt complete harmony between pronounced tannins, layers of flavors, and acidity.

2007: This wine came across as very different as the 2006. It immediately seduced with powerful aromas of black fruit, initially a bit of barnyard on the nose which evaporated while having the first course, it left memories of a combination of wet leaves, black fruit juice, leather. The structure was also powerful, but the tannins were quieter and it did not achieve this delicious harmony as the 2006.

2008: On the nose this wine was beautiful with delicate red berry aromas, not as forward as the 2007 but a lot more forceful than the 2006. On the palate, this was a full-bodied, complex wine with powerful tannins, spicy notes, minerality, and a good aftertaste.

My personal favorite was the 2006, but with the hearty bone marrow dish the 2008 was the better match.

Second Flight and Course

duck prosciutto - arugula, apple, celery root

Vintages: 2001, 2002, 2004

Picture: duck prosciutto - arugula, apple, celery root

Jean-Rene Matignon: The 2001 vintage saw a green harvest and produced a wine that is elegant and balanced with very good potential. The 2002 vintage saw a very cold spring where they lost many berries. Good weather in September pushed the ripeness into balance but still left a low-yield. Some green berries made it into the wine. The 2004 vintage experienced very good, regular weather that provided a big challenge to reduce quantity. There was a green harvest and the largest quantity of generic wine made.

Annette Schiller: 2001: Gorgeous nose of red fruits and spicy flavors. Also a powerful wine with a velvety mouthfeel and well integrated tannins. There was a voluptuous ripeness and impressive harmony on the palate with a lengthly fantastic finish.

2002: On the nose it was similar to the 2001 but more Cabernet driven with wonderful cassis flavors, and some pine notes. It was similar to the 2001, full-bodied, dense, with silky tannins, and a rich dark chocolate flavor on the palate. The long-lasting finish stays in my mind.

2004: The first impression in the glass is the similarity with the 2001 and the 2002: the gorgeous fruit nose. On the palate it is a bit harsher, more tannin driven and shows less harmony between fruit aromas, tannins, and acidity than the other two. Maybe the harmony comes together in the years to come.

All the three wines in this flight showed a longer finish than the three of the first flight.

It is hard to say which wine I liked best with the duck-prosciutto salad, Maybe the edgy 2004 was the best match with a salad.

Pictures: Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Dinner at Ripple

Third Flight and Course

salsify tortellini - short rib ragu

Vintages: 2000, 2003, 2005

Picture: salsify tortellini - short rib ragu

Jean-Rene Matignon: The 2000 vintage saw a special blending of the wine with managing director Christian Seely. This was a vintage for winemaking with the revelation coming after tasting through the tanks and vats. It marks the beginning of the great vintages, classic for the Bordelais, and a taste for the world. The 2003 vintage was famously hot and difficult to sort out the very ripe fruit. For the second wine a second pick was employed. The 2005 vintage was strict and austere being about terroir and one for our children.

Annette Schiller: 2000: The wine was a dark colored, purple beauty in the glass, and what a phenomenal nose of cassis, leather, some vanilla, pine, cedar! The tremendously concentrated, full-bodied, high-tannin wine with an underlying wild streak also had a purity which gave it balance and elegance.

2003: The nose was similar to the 2000, but a bit more on the fruity side. This full-bodied, very complex wine was softer on the tannins than the 2000. It was beautifully balanced, also very pure with a lower acidity, and in general a more gentle wine.

2005: On the first encounter the nose was very restrained, and it did not really open up during the dinner. There were subtle hints of dark berries, but the balanced, polished, yet substantial and concentrated body made the wine very pleasant. This wine certainly will benefit from some more years of aging.

My personal favorite was the 2000. In general I enjoy mature wines, and wines with a lot of tension, and this one was a prime example of that. The 2003 was my favorite match with the food. The fruitiness very well counterbalanced the meatiness of the tagliatelle dish.

Pictures: Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Dinner at Ripple

Fourth Flight and Course

rack of lamb - parsnip, kale chips

Vintages: 1989, 1990

Picture: rack of lamb - parsnip, kale chips

Jean-Rene Matignon: The 1989 and 1990 vintages produced from the historic, smaller vineyard on the estate. The new winery was not built until 1991 so they reflect the raw quality of the fruit. The 1989 vintage experienced such nice weather that the fruit was picked with students. There were exceptional berries so it was not necessary to sort as it is recently common. The 1990 vintage showed the potential of the Pichon Baron fruit producing a fresh wine that will last forever

Annette Schiller: 1989: The nose was unique: very restrained, a cigar box mix with still sweet and fragrant fruit, which made the wine extremely interesting and seductive. On the palate the wine clearly showed its age but it still had a lovely body with lots of aromas, and a surprising freshness.

1990: Lively, full, ripe fruit, chocolate, cedar aromas on the nose. Much more vibrant than the 1989. Even a little jammy in the mouth with pronounced fruit flavors, a good structure and even still a bit youthful. This wine can still last while the 1989 will not benefit from further aging. How interesting to see the different developments in the 1989 and the 1990 with only one year difference.

I personally preferred the 1989, but the better match with the food was the 1990. The lamb was succulent and very rare. The fruitiness of the 1990 paired well with the raw game flavor.

Pictures: Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Dinner at Ripple

Fifth Flight and Course

aged gouda - dried cherry, walnut brittle

Vintages: 2009, 2010

Picture: aged gouda - dried cherry, walnut brittle

Jean-Rene Matignon: This pair also marks the introduction of the optical sorter in 2009.

Annette Schiller: 2009: Intense aromas of cassis, licorice, dark chocolate, pepper, and spices jump out of the glass. A powerful texture combined with a fantastic balance between tannins, acidity, and fruit flavors gives the wine opulence and voluptuousness. The long-lasting finish leaves a grandiose feeling behind that this is an exceptional wine.

2010: This wine shows similar intense aromas on the nose than the 2009. It is also a full-bodied, opulent, solidly structured, dense wine, maybe even a bit bigger and bolder than the 2009. This wine also has higher tannins than the 2009 which rewards one with a velvety mouthfeel. The finish is also long-lasting and fantastic.

It will be interesting to compare these wines in 20 years from now and then to remember the taste of the 1989 and the 1990, when they were 25 years old!

My personal preference was the 2010. Both wines did well with the cheese course.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Panos Kakaviatos and Howard Cooper

See You in Bordeaux!

Thanks Panos and Jean-Rene for a wonderful evening.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Jean-Rene Matignon talking after the Dinner about the Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy later this year (2015)

schiller-wine: Related Posting

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

(German) Winemakers in the World: The German Roots of the Baron Philippe de Rothschild Empire

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France  

Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015

$
0
0
Picture, from left to right: Wolfgang M. Rosam (Falstaff Herausgeber), Axel Stiegelmar (Weingut Juris, 3. Falstaff-Sieger), Peter Keller (CEO Breitling), Werner Achs (1. Falstaff-Sieger), Elke Winkens (Schauspielerin und Moderatorin der Falstaff Rotweingala 2014), Philipp Grassl (Weingut Hans und Philipp Grassl, 2. Falstaff-Sieger) / © APA Fotoservice, Ludwig Schedl

The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015, a wine guide for Austrian red wine, was released in November 2014 in Vienna, Austria. In the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015, around 1500 wines of around 400 winemakers are described on 374 pages. This key reference for Austrian wine was released for the 18th time by Peter Moser. The focus of the Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015 is on the 2012 vintage. The Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015 awarded prizes in 11 categories.

For previous years see:
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2014
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2013
Austria’s Best Red Wines - Falstaff RotweinGuide 2010/2011
Wine ratings: Austria - Falstaff Top Red Wines 2009/2010

Picture: Falstaff RotweinGuide 2015 Österreich

Austria’s Red Wine Boom

At first thought one might think of Austria’s climate as being quite cool for red wine. In the Alps and the western and northern reaches of the country this tends to be true. The eastern plains that border Hungary and Slovenia, however, are a different story. Yes, Austria has an international reputation for its white wines, but the reds have been improving. Like in Germany, in Austria there has been a revolution going on in terms of red wines in recent years. In both countries, red wine now accounts for about 1/3 of the wine production.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Peter Moser in Frankfurt

There are 3 key Austrian red grape varieties, although other varieties are also grown, including international grape varities. Zweigelt accounts for 9.0 % of Austria’s total production, Blaufraenkisch for 5.5 % and Blauer Portugieser 5.0 %. All other red grape varieties - including the international grapes Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as well as St. Lauren - are below 2 percent each of Austria’s wine production.

Zwiegelt: The most abundant red grape; makes good wines ranging from simple cherry fruit reds to more substantial reds destined for aging.

Blaufränkisch: Common in Burgenland, this makes spicy, sturdy, berry fruited reds which can have some tannic structure. Probably Austria’s best red grape.

See:
Discover Blaufraenkisch! Top 100 Tasting in London, UK - Schiller's Favorites

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Austrian Wine Marketing Boss Willi Klinger in London, UK at the Blaufraenkisch Tasting

Blauer Portugieser: This red grape makes soft, approachable, juicy wines mainly for early consumption. The most widely planted red grape but not for top quality wines.

St. Laurent: Came from France in the mid-19th century, and seems to have substantial Pinot Noir parentage. It makes soft, slight herby, expressive reds; it’s a bit like Pinot Noir.

Overall Winners

Best wine overall in the Fallstaff RotweinGuide 2015 is the XUR 2012 (a Cuvée of Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. Laurent) with 95 Falstaff Points, made by Werner Achs from Gols. #2 in the overall ranking is Weingut Hans und Philipp Grassl from Göttlesbrunn with the Cuvée Bärnreiser 2012, ahead of Weingut Juris, also from Gols, with the Cuvée Ina'mera 2012.

Falstaff Reserve Trophy Winners

Going back one year, the 2011 Blaufränkisch wines from the Burgenland dominated the Falstaff Reserve Trophy contest:

#1: Weingut Gager, Deutschkreutz, Blaufränkisch Gager V-MAX 96 Falstaff-Punkte
#2: Albert Gesellmann, Deutschkreutz, Blaufränkisch »hochberc« 2011
#3: Weingut Wagentristl, Großhöflein, Leithaberg DAC rot Reisbühl 2011

Sortensieger - Specific Grape Variety Winners

For specific grape varieties, the winners are:

Blaufränkisch: Eisenberg DAC Reserve Reihburg 2012 - Weingut Kopfensteiner, Deutsch Schützen

Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon Neuberg 2012 - Winzerhof Kiss, Jois

Cuvée: XUR 2012 - Weingut Werner Achs, Gols

Merlot: Merlot Sandwühler 2012 - Weingut Niki Windisch, Groß-Engersdorf

Pinot Noir: Pinot Noir Baumgarten 2012 - Weingut Pittnauer, Gols

St. Laurent: St. Laurent Reserve 2012 - Weingut Dopler, Tattendorf

Syrah: Syrah and ever 2012 - Weingut Artner, Höflein

Blauer Zweigelt: Zweigelt Reserve 2012 - Weingut Anton Hundsdorfer, Neckenmarkt

Zweigelt Grand Prix Winners

Looking ahead, the winners of the Zweigelt-Grand Prix 2013 are:

#1: Weingut Hannes Reeh, Andau – Zweigelt Unplugged 2013
#2: Weingut Pöckl, Mönchhof – Zweigelt Classique 2013
#3 ex aequo: Weingut Werner Achs, Gols – Zweigelt Goldberg 2013
#3 ex aequo: Weingut Erich Scheiblhofer, Andau – Zweigelt Prädium 2013

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria

Meeting Gerhard Wohlmuth jun. from Weingut Wohlmuth, Austria, and Tasting his Wines in Washington DC

Welcome to America: Franz and Christine Netzl Estate, Carnuntum, Austria

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

Tasting Leo Hillinger Red Wines with Leo Hillinger’s Assistant Winemaker Michael Hoeffken and US Importer Klaus Wittauer

Visiting Leo Hillinger, Michael Hoeffken and Edgar Brutler at the Leo Hillinger Winery in Jois, Austria

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Visiting Christine, Christina and Franz Netzl in their Weingut Netzl in Carnuntum, Austria

Sauvignon Blanc in Austria– A Comparative Tasting with Falstaff's Peter Moser at Weinsinn in Frankfurt, Germany

Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

Discover Blaufraenkisch! Top 100 Tasting in London, UK - Schiller's Favorites

Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA 

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria 

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

$
0
0
Picture: Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard, Rheingau

Following the visit of Kloster Eberbach, we walked about a mile to the famous Steinberg vineyard, where we took a look at the new winery of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and then sat down in the Steinberg vineyard with many other Sunday visitors from the Greater Frankfurt am Main area and had a couple of glasses of wine from the Steinberg vineyard.

See:
Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach

The Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine River. Today, the Eberbach Abbey is a large State-owned winery (the State of Hessen is its proprietor) and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive.

Pictures: Kloster Eberbach

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach

The Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach serves as an umbrella organization for seven individual wine estates, including 3 wine producing facilities and cellars:

The Bensheim Estate is the only one located in the Hessische Bergstraße wine-growing region. Grand Duke of Hessen-Darmstadt founded this Estate in 1904, the vineyard holdings total 38 hectares. The main grape variety planted is Riesling (25 ha), as well as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

The red wine Estate Assmannshausen at the western edge of the Rheingau has a vineyard area of 27 hectares in the Höllenberg site, of which 25 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir. These two Estates do their own bottling, and market the wines under their own names.

The Hattenheim Estate (50 ha vineyard area in the Engelmannsberg, Siegelsberg and Marcobrunn sites).

The Hochheim Estate.

The Rauenthal Estate (48 ha in the Baiken and Wülfen sites).

The Rüdesheim Estate (23 ha in the Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland and Berg Schlossberg sites).

The Steinberg (32 ha, a monopole holding).

The total vineyard area of the 7 estates comes to more than 200 hectares, of which 85% are planted with Riesling, 10% with Pinot Noir and 5% with other varieties.

Steinbergkeller

A few years ago, the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach built a new winemaking facility and celler just outside the wall of Steinberg, the Steinbergkeller. The Steinbergkeller – a state of the art, state-owned and run winemaking facility - was a very controversial project.

Picture: Steinbergkeller

Steinberg

The Steinberg is a 32.4 hectares (80 acres) wall-enclosed vineyard in walking distance of the Eberbach Abbey in the Rheingau. It is one of the most famous German vineyards.

The favorite site of the monks, they built a 4 meter (13ft) wall around the vineyard to keep out thieves. This and its Cistercian heritage give Steinberg a distinct similarity to the famed Clos De Vougeot in Bourgogne in neigbouring France. The name Steinberg is German for "stony hill" after Stein = stone and Berg = mountain or hill.

Pictures: In the Steinberg Vineyard

The Steinberg is one of handful single vineyard sites in Germany which for reasons of historical significance have dispensation from having to include a village name together with the vineyard's name, so the wines from the Steinberg are simply labelled Steinberger.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Kloster Eberbach)

Riesling Gala 2014 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

A Tour through the Rheingau (Germany) - Visit of 3 Prestigious, Historic Rheingau Wineries: Weingut Robert Weil, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach and Schloss Johannisberg (IRS 2014), Germany

In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany

Steinberger Riesling 1893 from Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Germany to San Francisco in California, USA
 

German Wine Dinner with Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

$
0
0
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC

Mac Arthur Beverages announced it as “a once in a lifetime opportunity to dine at one of DC’s best restaurants in an intimate setting with legendary German winemaker Hanno Zilliken. This legendary estate in the Saar has been turning out some of the world’s greatest Rieslings for many years.”

With all of us sitting around one table, the outstanding food and the legendary Zilliken wines being served, this indeed was a very special event.

About a year ago, I had the chance to participate in a Zilliken wine tasting with Dorothea Zilliken in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. I have written about it here and I am using some of the material of the posting for this posting. Indeed, we tasted quite a number of the same wines.

See:
Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dorothee Zillike, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area.

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken produces 100% Riesling wines, of which about 80% is fermented in a sweet style. 70% of the production is exported. In the US, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken has been in the portfolio of Rudi Wiest Selection for a long time.

Riesling from New York to Tokyo

Dorothee Zilliken: From uncomplicated and fresh estate wines to elegant bottles destined to accompany fine meals and sweet, late harvest wines that will only begin to mature and develop ten years after harvest, Zilliken Rieslings are beloved by aficionados from New York to Tokyo. Wine critics proclaim: Geltz Zilliken's wines are a perpetual player in the international Champion's League of wine. Put simply, they are among the finest Rieslings the world has to offer.

We aren't influenced by international trends and styles (except perhaps by a name like 'Butterfly'). We instead focus on timeless tradition, beginning with our labels, the same as those our grandfather placed on his bottles. There are no compromises when it comes to quality; we do things as they have always been done. Our dry Rieslings stand proudly in our portfolio, shoulder to shoulder with their better-known noble sweet counterparts — Auslese, Trockenbeeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The best of these wines will be sent to auction.

Pictures: Hanno Zilliken Greeting the Guests

History

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is located in the Saar Valley, which belongs to the Mosel district, very close to France and Luxembourg. Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a founding member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925).

In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno Zilliken started in 1976 as cellar master and took ownership in 1981.

In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee Zilliken joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim University and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau. Dorothee is married to Philipp Zilliken (nee Hoffmann), who is a career changer and recently started to work at the estate.

Picture: Nancy Peach, Rudi Wiest Selections, Introducinf Hanno Zilliken

See also:
New German Arrivals from Rudi Wiest Selections at MacArthur Beverages, with Nancy Peach and Phil Bernstein, Washington DC, USA

Vineyard

With a vineyard area of 11 hectares, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a small estate. It is a family-run estate, with only 2 full-time employees and seasonal workers for the harvest. All grapes are sourced from its two VDP.Grosse Lage vineyards: Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein, including for its popular “Butterfly” wine.

Saarburger Rausch - Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein - Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

Picture: Hanno Zilliken Explaining

Wine Cellar

The Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken wine cellar is very special. I have heard this from many sources and Hanno and Dorothee talked quite a bit about the cellar: We have a very old cellar. It's 100 years old and it's very dark, humid and cold. The humidity is always between 95% and 99% so it very high and looks like a cave that is always dropping. It's very good for our corks. When we close the cork it stays very soft and gentle which is perfect for the storage conditions. Especially for the normal sweet wines we can store them for: 30, 40 or 50 years in our cork cellar without recorking them. So these corks will always stay in the bottle which is perfect.

We are fermenting all our wines in our German oak barrels and not those stainless steel tanks but small barrels. The content is about 1000 liters and is toasted inside giving a flavor vanilla aroma to the wine. These German barrels are none toasted so they are neutral and not giving any flavors. However, we think that it's worth to work with these German barrels because they are rounding the wine a bit and gives the wine more harmony. From the working point of view, it would be much easier to have these tank steel barrels but we will then miss more taste in the mouth.

Riesling

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a 100% Riesling producer. Hanno Zilliken: We are just producing the Riesling grape variety. We think it's more worth to produce it there because we have a Devonian Slate terroir, which is the best condition for growing Riesling. We have very steep mountains vineyards that are between 30 and 60 degrees of steepness. We are only harvesting by hand which is very important for us because then you can safe all the quality of the grapes. Because if you are taking the housing machine and run through the vineyard lines it will also be catching as for example a lot of leaves and the pressure on the grapes is too high. This is the reason why we are only harvesting by hand.

Rasika

Washington Post’s food critic Tom Sietsema says: “When visiting food critics solicit suggestions for where to eat, no matter what hot spot has just ignited in Washington, Rasika tops my list. “There's nothing like this in" New York/Chicago/San Francisco/Houston, my fellow mouths-for-hire all say after tasting the handiwork of chef Vikram Sunderam.”

Picture: Rasika

The Wine Dinner

Aperitif: Zilliken Butterfly 2013

Dorothee Zilliken: We started to produce Butterfly in 2002, with 6000 bottles. We quickly moved to 22000 bottles and are now back to 15000, because we need the grapes for our other wines. Butterfly is well balanced thanks to the sugar acidity which makes it fit to a lot of different kind of food. If you have a meal with more spiciness then you should take a more sweet wine like.

Picture: Zilliken Butterfly 2013

David Bowler in New York offers currently the 2012 Butterfly and writes: 18g/l RS, 7.5g acid and 11.5 alcohol. The everyday sipping wine from Zilliken in a “feinherb” or medium-dry style sourced mainly from the Saarburger Rausch grand cru with a small percentage of Ockfener Bockstein - two incredible sites! That’s a rather deluxe “sipping wine.” The palate of the 2012 is juicy, vital and delicious, with crystalline clarity of flavor and a dash of celery salt sprinkled over a lemon and green apple core. It’s as good as or better than this cuvee has EVER been —-proof positive that winemaker Dorothee Zilliken (who shepherded this wine into being) is a sure-handed heir to her father Hanno.

Appetizers:

Palak Chaat, Sev Batata Puri, Elaichi Tikka, Seekh Kebab

Pictures: Palak Chaat, Sev Batata Puri, Elaichi Tikka, Seekh Kebab

Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Saarburg 2013
Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein 2013

Picture: Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Saarburg 2013and Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein 2013

Dorothee Zilliken: 50g/l RS – which you barely taste in the glass. Apple, pear. A very elegant wine.

Hanno Zilliken: A very mineral and refreshing Kabinett, as is the Saarburg Riesling.

Howard Cooper: Interestingly, I liked the Saarburger better than the Bockstein. But, they were both excellent

Entrées:

Black Cod, Tandoori Lamb Chop, Chicken Makhani, Lamb Mirchi Korma, Malai Palak, Dal Makhani, Raita, Basmati Rice, Assorted Breads

Pictures: Black Cod, Tandoori Lamb Chop, Chicken Makhani, Lamb Mirchi Korma, Malai Palak, Dal Makhani, Raita, Basmati Rice, Assorted Breads

Zilliken Riesling Spätlese Saarburg Rausch 2012

Dorothee Zilliken: Less yellow fruit notes and more tropical fruit notes (compared to the previous wine) – Pineapple, Mango, Maracuja. Long finish with good acidity. Can be easily put away for 20 years. Has some botrityzed grapes.

Zilliken Riesling Auslese Rausch 2012

Vrienden van de Riesling: Complex fruit in the nose with lots of primary fruit (exotic, like pineapple), a delicate spiciness but also a lot of dried fruit (date, figs). After a powerful start follows an almost refreshing lightness by the precise balance between sweet and acid. The finish, with fine citric acidity, is very long.

Zilliken Riesling Spätlese Saarburg Rausch 2003

Howard Cooper: Loved the two 2012s. Really beautiful balance. The 2003 was nice too - not in the class of the 2012s, but more mature (and petroly) and excellent for the vintage. Interesting having a 2003 with some acid.

Picture: Zilliken Riesling Spätlese Saarburg Rausch 2012, Zilliken Riesling Auslese Rausch 2012, Zilliken Riesling Spätlese Saarburg Rausch 2003

Dessert:

Gulab Jamun/ Carrot Halwa/Cardamom Ice Cream

Picture: Gulab Jamun/ Carrot Halwa/Cardamom Ice Cream

Zilliken Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Saarburg Rausch 2010

Wine Spectator April 30, 2012: Very focused, with rich, luscious and vibrant flavors of ginger cream, spiced peach, apricot tart and spiced pear. Creamy notes linger on the long, juicy finish, which features minerally hints. 92

Howard Cooper: Just a great bottle of wine. Seemed like an eiswein. Really should be special with age.


Picture: Zilliken Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Saarburg Rausch 2010

Rieslingfeier in New York City

A few days later, we met again with Hanno Zilliken at the Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City.

See:
A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Picture: The Zilliken Table at the Rieslingfeier 2015 Gala Dinner

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

New German Arrivals from Rudi Wiest Selections at MacArthur Beverages, with Nancy Peach and Phil Bernstein, Washington DC, USA

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Viewing all 2244 articles
Browse latest View live