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Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

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Picture: Owner Didier Cuvelier Pouring at Château Léoville Poyferré (Note: All pictures on this posting are from the Ombiasy Wine Tours 2012 Bordeaux Trip.)

Led by Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller, a Bordeaux Trip is coming up: September 9 to 19, 2013, organized by Ombiasy Wine Tours.

Bordeaux

The Bordeaux region is the second largest winegrowing area in the world. Close to 300,000 acres are under vine. The Gironde estuary dominates the region along with its tributaries, the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers. These rivers define the main geographical subdivisions of Bordeaux: The Left Bank is situated on the left bank of the Gironde and the Garonne, subdivided into: Graves, the area upstream of the city Bordeaux and Médoc, the area downstream of the city of Bordeaux.

Picture: Getting ready for lunch at Château Beauséjour (AOC Puisseguin-St. Emilion) with Owner and Wine Maker Gerard Dupuy

The Right Bank is situated on the right bank of the Gironde and the Dordogne, with wine regions such as Côte de Blaye, Côte de Bourg, Fronsac, Pomerol, Saint- Emilion, Côte de Castillon. Entre Deux Mers is the inland region sculpted into the wedge by the two rivers that give it its name, the Pyrenees-sourced Garonne to the west and the Massif-Centrale-sourced Dordogne to the east.

Pictures: In Bordeaux with a Plateau des Fruits de Mer

The Trip

This trip focuses on the two most well-known regions within the Bordeaux winegrowing area, where the highest number of world-class wines achieving skyrocketing prices are produced: Médoc with its appellations Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux on the Left Bank and Saint-Emilion on the Right Bank with a side trip to the tiny Pomerol appellation. We will also visit the area where the Sauterne wines are produced and one château in the Pessac-Leognan appellation.

We will tour, taste the wines, and meet the owners of some of the famous Châteaux ranked in the 1855 Médoc Classification. The Médoc classification of 1855 covers (with one exception) red wines of Médoc. The 1855 classification was made at the request of Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris. It ranked the wines into five categories, mainly according to price, and this classification has never been touched, except for the promotion of Mouton Rothschild. The famous 5 first growths are: Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac, Margaux in Margaux, Latour in Pauillac, Haut-Brion in Péssac-Leognan, and Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac, promoted from second to first growth in 1973. There are: 14 Deuxièmes (2nd) Crus, 14 Troisièmes (3rd) Crus, 10 Quatrièmes (4rd) Crus, and 18 Cinquièmes (5th) Crus.

Pictures: With Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac in Margaux

On the Right Bank we also will visit, taste the wines, and meet the owners of some of the Premiers Grands Crus Classés Châteaux of Saint-Emilion. Since 1954 an official French decree regulates the classification in Saint-Emilion. Two appellations, Saint-Emilion and Saint-Emilion Grand Cru share a single geographical region. The Saint-Emilion Grand Cru classification is revisited every ten years, with the latest reevaluation conducted in 2012. We witnessed wine history during last year’s Bordeaux trip when our group visited Saint-Emilion on the day the results were released. Saint-Emilion Grand Cru is again divided into two classifications: Grands Crus Classés (currently 63 Châteaux) and Premiers Grands Crus Classés (currently 15 Châteaux in the B category, and 4 in the A category: (Angélus, Ausonne, Cheval Blanc, and Pavie) for the top estates. 

Lunches and Dinners with Château Owners

All lunches and dinners included in the itinerary will be gourmet meals in great restaurants. Special treats are lunches and dinners with wine pairings, where we will be joined by the Château owner. Our farewell dinner will be in a one Michelin star restaurant. Accommodation will be in 3-star, 4-star, and 5 star hotels with a breakfast buffet each morning waiting for you to kick off a great day of winery tours and tastings. Travel will be by luxury air-conditioned motor coach, starting and ending in the city of Bordeaux. This tour is designed for English speakers. Where English is not spoken, translation is assured throughout the entire trip.

Pictures: Lunch with Owner Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville Poyferré

Small Group led by Annette and Christian Schiller

The group will not exceed a total of 18 participants. Only a small group gets access to the top châteaux. Wine journalist Christian Schiller and Annette Schiller, professional event manager, both wine connoisseurs, experienced wine region travelers, and former residents of France will lead the group. We will make sure that the participants of this journey will experience a true feeling of genuine French culture.

Pictures: With Owner Francois Mitjavile at Tertre Roteboeufin Saint Emilion. The wine searcher average price ofr his 2005 is; US$365

In Short

• 10 nights hotel accommodation: 8 nights in 3-star plus hotels, 1 night in a 4-star hotel, 1 night in a 5-star hotel.
• 10 breakfast buffets.
• Travel in the wine region by luxury air-conditioned motor coach.
• 5 gourmet lunches and dinners at excellent restaurants.
• 7 wine pairing gourmet lunches and dinners at various châteaux guided by the owners / winemakers, and at Millésima.
• 1 light lunch with wine at a châteaux.
• 1 dinner at a one michelin star restaurant.
• Visits of and tastings at 15 top châteaux (12 are classified).
• The opportunity to meet with many of the châteaux owners and winemakers.
• 2 guided city tours and sightseeing tours of spectacular historic sites.
• 1 visit of a merchant house in Bordeaux.
• 1 visit of a cooperage in Bordeaux.

Pictures: With Count Stefan von Neipperg in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière, just promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé in the new St. Emilion classification

Fees

The price for this 11 day / 10 night trip is $ 3965 per person, double occupancy. Single occupancy supplement is $ 535. Tour starts and ends in the city of Bordeaux.

We are sure, this trip will be as fantastic as the previous one. Join us on this trip to get a genuine feel for what Bordeaux has to offer.

Detailed information is available at the Ombiasy Wine Tours website:
Ombiasy Wine Tours
www.winetours.ombiasypr.com

Annette Schiller
Call: (703) 459 7513 or
Email: aschiller@ombiasypr.com

Picture: With Wine Maker Arnaud Lasisz at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

Ombiasy Wine Tours Bordeaux Trip 2013 – Related Postings

Here are a number of postings on schiller-wine on various events of last year’s Ombiasy Wine Tours Bordeaux trip as well as other postings that might be of interest for this year’s Ombiasy Wine Tours Bordeaux trip. Unlike this year’s trip, the 2012 trip started and ended in Hochheim, Germany and thus also included (in the beginning and in the end) events in the Champagne, Loire Valley, Cognac, Bourgogne and Alsace.

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France
Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France
An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer


Vin Bio de Bordeaux - At Château Beauséjour in AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, France
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 
Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina
Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux 
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France
Château Figeac, Saint-Émilion - A Profile, France
Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France
Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA
Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France
Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites
Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA
Tasting Château du Cros and other Petites Bordeaux Wines with Winemaker Julien Noel at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, USA










The Bordeaux with an Orange Label: Château Lafon-Rochet, 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in Saint-Estèphe, Medoc

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Picture: The Wines of  Château Lafon-Rochet, 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in Saint-Estèphe

When Guy Tesseron became the owner of Château Lafon-Rochet, 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in Saint-Estèphe, in 1959, it needed a serious restoration and Guy Tesseron did restore it to its former glory. He first put the vineyards back in order. He then built a new chai and a new château, in the style of the 18th century. The new château was painted only many years later. It was Guy Tesseron’s son, Michel Tesseron, who oversaw the painting of the château yellow/orange in 2000. This coincided with a repackaging of the bottles, using matching yellow/orange labels and capsules.

I recently met Basil Tesseron, who is in charge of Château Lafon-Rochet, in Washington DC, USA at the French Embassy and his father, Michel Tesseron, at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe.

For more, see:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/Franc

Vendredi du Vin #53 : Orange mécanique

This posting is being published as part of the Vendredis du Vin, a monthly blog event in France. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in France - are all releasing postings today under the same heading. This month's Vendredi du Vin is orchestrated by Sandrine Goevaert, who runs the blog La Pinardothèque.

Sandrine Goevaert: “Parlez-moi de vins oranges. Qu’ils soient oranges par leur couleur, par leur appellation, leurs arômes, leur type de vinification (les sacrés pinards  de macération, d’amphores, etc), leur étiquette… Le champ des possibles est vaste, ça vous permet d’aller à peu près partout. Tant qu’on y trouve de l’orange.”

Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Pictures: Tasting with Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC

History

The history of Chateau Lafon-Rochet starts in the 16th century, when a portion known as Rochet (because of its rocky terrain) eventually passed by marriage to Etienne de Lafon, who established Lafon-Rochet. The estate then passed down through the Lafon generations for almost 300 years.

When Guy Tesseron became the owner of Château Lafon-Rochetin 1959, it needed a serious restoration and Guy Tesseron did restore it to its former glory.

In 1975, Guy Tesseron also acquired 5th growth Chateau Pontet-Canet from the Cruse family. Both châteaux subsequently passed to the next generation with Lafon-Rochet coming to Michel Tesseron. Currently the property is in the good hands of Michel’s son, Basil Tesseron.

It was Michel Tesseron, Guy’s son, who oversaw the painting of the château yellow/orange and the redesignation of the bottles in 2000.

Picture: Before and After

Basile Tesseron took over from his father with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Vineyards and Wine Making

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Pictures: Tasting with Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe

To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate has 40 stainless steel, temperature controlled vats. The wine is kept in new oak barrels for 9 months before it is moved to one year old barrels, where it remains for an additional 9 months.  The final blending takes place 3 months before bottling.

Today, Basil Tesseron is steering Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of his uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

The Grand Vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases per annum), the second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases per annum and once known as Numéro 2 de Lafon-Rochet).

Wine Searcher Average Prices

2005 Chateau Lafon Rochet:  US$ 63
2009 Chateau Lafon Rochet:  US$ 57
2010 Chateau Lafon Rochet:  US$ 55
2011 Chateau Lafon Rochet:  US$ 37

2007 Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet:  US$ 17

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA


“The only guide to German Riesling you’ll ever need to read”

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Picture: The Candid Wines Team, with Damien Casten on the right

Chicago-based Damien Casten - co-founder of Candid Wines – posted the below on his wine blog, in which he directs his readers to a posting on schiller-wine. In his words, this posting is “the only guide to German Riesling you’ll ever need to read.”
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The only guide to German Riesling you’ll ever need to read

German Riesling is so easy to drink and to love.

I do both quite often.  Why then is it so darn hard to understand?

We Americans (and many non-Americans I’ve met as well) struggle to know what sort of wine is in a bottle of German Riesling because we don’t understand the cues on the labels.  I grant you that many include umlauts, long hyphenated names, and abbreviations that can be hard to decipher for the uninitiated, but I promise you there is a method to the madness.

If you remember nothing else after reading this post, remember this:

The higher the alcohol, the drier the Riesling.

Most any German Riesling at 13-14% alcohol will taste largely dry, while a bottle at 7-8% will taste something like honey.  At alcohol levels in between, the wine will taste more or less sweet.

If you look first at alcohol, you will have a guide to how sweet the wine is, and you’ve passed Riesling 101.  For advanced studies, I would direct you to the series of videos that we made with Harald Ziegler from Weingut August Zeigler in which he explains every word on a bottle of his 2005 Gimmeldinger-Biengarten Riesling Auslese.  This will help to decipher some of the hyphenated words (town-vineyard, town = Gimmeldingen, vineyard = Biengarten) and explain other complicated bits.

If you really want to dive into the layers and complexities of the labels on German wines, and thus understand the wines themselves, I’d suggest that you bookmark Christian Schiller’s excellent review of the different types of Spaetlese and Auslese wines being made today.  Refer back to Christian’s guide a few times and you will come to understand both what is on the label and what sort of wine is in that bottle of German Riesling that you are about to open. It may be the only guide you’ll ever need to read to understand sweetness levels in German Riesling, but you are likely to have to read it six times.

Damien Casten
July 24, 2012
The only guide to German Riesling you’ll ever need to read.

About Damien

Damien Casten co-founded Candid Wines with Scott Kerrigan in 2005 after living, working, and cooking professionally in France for six years. In France he cooked at La Maison Blanche and the Michelin Three Starred Lucas Carton. On his off days, he traded labor for wine and wine education at what was one of Paris' most remarkable shops, Les Ultra Vins.

Candid Wines is a wine distribution company based in Chicago. Our focus is on small wineries growing sustainable, organic and biodynamic wines. Thanks to the good work of our producers, our wines are featured at Chicago's best restaurants and the area's finest retailers, large and small.

Commis de cuisine (Cook) - Lucas Carton
2002 – 2003 (1 year)
Lucas Carton was at the time a Michelin 3 Star restaurant in Paris. Led by Chef / Owner Allain Senderens.

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The posting on schiller-wine Damien Casten is referring to is:  German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
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schiller-wine - Related Postings

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

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he Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

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A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

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Weinbar Rutz and Restaurant Hot Spot, both in Berlin, Germany, on the Newsweek List of 101 Best Places to Eat in the World, 2012 

Dinner with Spanish Winemaker Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, Bodegas Bleda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

Howard Friedman, Spanish wine aficionado, importer and wine tour guide, put on a great wine maker dinner featuring the wines of Bodegas Bleda, with owner Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, who was accompanied by his fiancée Helena Espinosa de Rueda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC.

Bodegas Bleda

Bodegas Bleda is a fourth-generation family winery that was founded in 1915 by Don Antonio Bleda in the small town of Jumilla, situated in Eastern Spain. The vineyard area totals 250 hectares. Bodeags Bleda exports most of its wines - only 5% is sold in Spain – to the EU (30%), the US (35%), Asia and Russia. Annual production is 60.000 cases.

Vineyard

Most of the vineyard is planted with Monastrell grapes. Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez: “Monastrell is most suited for Jumilla’s environment. The grapes require a warm climate to ripen and mature and are able to withstand drought conditions. Its fruity concentration, sugars and high level of tannins give our wines an elegant and characteristic personality”.

Additional red grape varieties include Tempranillo and Syrah. A field of Cabernet Sauvignon was planted in March 2011. The white wine varieties are Sauvignon Blanc, Macabeo and Airen.

Pictures: Dinner

Airen has been grown in Spain since the time of the Moors and is the single most planted vine in the world. Its durability under extreme temperatures and dry climates as well as a high yield has made it a popular Spanish choice. It was traditionally used for brandy and heavy, oxidised wines, but modern technology now permits the production of crisp, slightly neutral dry wines marked for early consumption.

Macabeo is another native Spanish grape that is grown in Spain and southern France. It is traditionally used to make cava (sparkling wine).

Winery

Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez: “Our current headquarters is located in the Valley of Omblancas at an altitude of 650 meters and is overlooked by the Castle of Jumilla.” In 2008, almost 100 after it was founded, the winery was moved to the  Valley of Omblancas, where it is surrounded by vineyards at an altitude of 650 meters.

Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez: “In our winery’s facilities all the tanks, which vary in size from 23,000 to 100,000 litres, are made of stainless steel with temperature control. Our vinification tanks allow us to control each step of the process so we are able to carry out a perfect production of wines.”

Bodegas Bleda ages some of the wines in French and American oak.

Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez

Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez is a lawyer by training. He joined his family’s winery in 2009 and is now the General Manager.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez and his Fiancee Helena Espinosa de Rueda

Howard Friedman

Howard Friedman is well known to the customers of the Washington DC wine retail store Calvert and Woodley, because he used to work there for many years. A few years ago, after retirement from the retail business, Howard he founded South River Imports and started to import Spanish wine. Also, once a year in September, he takes a group of not more than 20 people to Spain for a wineries tour. This year, his third tour is coming up. If you are interested check out the Calvert and Woodley page.

Picture: Howard Friedman Talking about his Forthcoming Tour to Spain

Taberna del Alabardero

The Taberna del Alabardero is a renowned Basque restaurant in Madrid owned by Luis Lesama - a Madrid classic. The Taberna Del Alabardero in Washington DC (opened in 1989) is his only venture abroad (after Luis Lesama closed Seattle); it is arguably the best Spanish restaurant on the East Coast of the US.

In addition to the superb menu and wine list, the decor is impressive and almost screams you will be treated like royalty. The dinner took place in one of the private rooms that feature dark walls, gold embellishments and a pretty chandelier.

The dinner was prepared by Chef Javier Romero, who came directly to Washington DC  from Madrid about 2 years ago, and was ably orchestrated by Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta.

Picture: Chef Javier Romero and  Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta

The Dinner

Starters

Gambas Gabardina – Tempura Shrimp


Chorizo Delicatessen – Spanish Sausage over Tomato and Bread Toast


Mejillones en su Vinagreta – Mussels in its own Vinegar Sauce


Castillo de Jumilla White 2011 D.O. Jumilla

Grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Macabeo and Airen

Tasting notes: A pale yellow with intense hints of green color. It has a robust aroma which is elegant, open and diverse, with complexities reminiscent of green and meadows and young ripening fruit. It is well structured on the tasting, fresh and soft, tasty with fruity notes and good aftertaste.


First Appetizer

Bisque de Cangrejos, Aire de Manchego y Crutones al Tomillo – Maryland Crab Bisque with Manchego Cheese Foam and Croutons


Castillo de Jumilla Rose 2011 D.O. Jumilla

Grape: Monastrell

Tasting notes: A hazy strawberry pink color. It has a clean and powerful bouquet with an intense aroma of fresh fruit: strawberry and raspberry; with a sophisticated, fruity character. On tasting it is lively, fresh, full of flavor and well balanced. It is well structured. It has a full, fresh aroma and pleasant, fruity after-taste.


Second Appetizer

Emperador con Guiso Marinero de Chipirones y Verduras Crujientes – Baked Swordfish in a Squid Stew with Crunchy Vegetables


Castillo de Jumilla Monastrell Tempranillo 2011 D.O. Jumilla

Grapes varieties: 50% Monastrell 50% Tempranillo

Tasting Notes: Deep cherry red, this wine has a bouquet of mature fruit, reminiscent of berries and liquorice. On tasting it is flavorsome and well-balanced, and its moderate acidity and lively tannins stand out in the first sip. It has an elegant final flavor with a lasting after-taste which invites a deep enjoyment of the tasting.


Second Course

Sobre Carrillera de Ternera Estofada, Maiz Crujiente y Frijoles en Ensalada – Braised Veal Cheek topped with a Crisp Cracker. Black Beans Salad


Castillo de Jumilla Reserva 2005 Monastrell D.O. Jumilla

90% Monastrell 10 % Tempranillo

Crianza: Twenty four months in French and American oak barrels. It finished by fining its structure with the bottle remaining for eighteen months, before being released into the market.


Tasting Notes: Magnificent cherry red on a ruby background with dense legs. Complex bouquet with aromas of red berries, stewed fruit and toasty hints. Just the right amount of spicy woody notes. Excellent in the mouth with pleasant tannins and good acidity.

Main Course

Lomo de Ciervo con Arroz Cremoso de Boletus e Higos en Salsa de Madeira – Grilled Venison Loin over a bed of Creamy Mushroom Rice topped with Fresh Figs and Madeira Port Sauce


Divus 2009 Monastrell D.O. Jumilla

100% Monastrell, barrel aged

The grapes come from old vineyards of Monastrell, harvested during the first week of October 2010. Long maceration of the skinnings of the grape for 21 days.

Crianza of the wine: in new French Allier oak barrels of medium toast during nine months.


Tasting notes: Very intense and deep cherry red color. Aromas of good intensity with blackberry and blackcurrant, and a pleasant background with new and spicy wood flavor. In the mouth is tasty, rich and with balsamic notes, very powerful with good acidity and noble with well-joined tannins. Ample and remarkable after-tasting with very bright nose aromas.

Dessert

Sobre un nido de Algonon, Huevo de Chocolate Relleno de Frutos Rojos con Arandanos – Chocolate Egg with Red Fruits and Blueberries on Textures over Cotton Candy Nest


Amatus Dulce Monastrell and Syrah 2011 D.O. Jumilla

Red Sweet Wine

Grapes Varieties: 85% Monastrell 15% Syrah


How as the wine made sweet? Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez: “We harvested late and stopped the fermentation at an early stage. Alcohol was then added. Basically, it was made the way Port is made.”
Tasting Notes: Dark red cherry colour with violet borders. Powerful aroma, red and ripe fruit. Tasty, creamy, sweet, ripe tannins, plenty of sweetness and intense fruit concentration.

schiller-wine: Related Posting

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Meeting Up-and-coming Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from the Duoro Area in Portugal at Screwtop Winebar in Clarendon, Virginia

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Dinner with Owner/Winemaker Eric Bonnet of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France/USA

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Picture: Bistro Vivant Co-Owner Aykan Demiroglu, Eric Bonnet, Winemaker and Co-Owner of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique and Christian G.E. Schiller at Bistro Vivant in McLean, VA, USA

Bistro Vivant in McLean, Virginia (USA), known for its excellent French cuisine, hosted a special evening with Eric Bonnet, Winemaker and Co-Owner of Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique, located in the Rhone region of France. We enjoyed a five-course menu, prepared by Co-Owner/Executive Chef Domenico Cornacchia (Assagi Osteria, Assagi Mozarella Bar and Bistro Vivant) and his new Bistro Vivant Chef Ed Hardy.

Pictures: Co-Owner/Executive Chef Domenico Cornacchia (Assagi Osteria, Assagi Mozarella Bar and Bistro Vivant) and Bistro Vivant Chef Ed Hardy

See also:
The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

It was a lovely evening with great wines and food, all well-orchestrated by Bistro Vivant Co-Owner Aykan Demiroglu and General Manager Shannon Paretzky.

Picture: Eric Bonnet and General Manager Shannon Paretzky

The Vineyard

The event was initiated by The Vineyard Wine Store in McLean. The prices below are The Vineyard prices for single bottles.

Picture: Eric Bonnet and Louis Cinelli, General Manager, The Vineyard Wine Store in McLean

Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique

Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique is a family-owned winery in Courthézon in the southern part of the Rhône Valley in France. It is owned by Gerard and Marie-Claude Bonnet, with their son Eric Bonnet, who visited us, as well as his wife Julie Moro.

Eric Bonnet: “My family has been making wine for a number of years now. My great-grandfather started it. He did not bottle the wine he made under his own label, but sold it by barrel to a negociant. My father started to bottle the wine in 1980.”

Pictures: Eric Bonnet Answering Questions

The family owns 38 hectares of vineyards in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC and other areas.

The vineyards in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC total 10.5 hectares, of which 1.8 hectares are set aside for white wine. It comprises 7 different lieux-dits: Chapouin, la Gardiole, Pignan, la Guigasse, les Bédines, Valori and Saint Georges. Eric Bonnet: “Our oldest vines were planted in 1920 in Pignan. A further area was planted with Grenache after World War II, and in the course of the past 20 years or so, the range of grape varieties was expanded 2 more times: with Syrah in 1989 and with Mourvèdre in 2006.”

The Bonnet family also owns 28 hectares of vineyards where they produce white, red, and rosé Côtes du Rhône wines, as well as vin de pays, or ordinary table wine.

Finally, Domaine La Bastide Saint Dominique is a vignerons/negociant, i.e. the Bonnet family also buys grapes/wine in bulk from other growers/winemakers. For example, the 2 Hermitage wines we had were negociant wines.

Eric Bonnet

Eric Bonnet learned winemaking in Burgundy. He studied enology in Beaune and joined his father in 2000. Eric focusses on the cellar, while his father takes the lead in the vineyard.

Pictures: Eric Bonnet, Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller from Ombiasy Wine Tours

For more on Ombiasy Wine Tours see:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Bistro Vivant

Bistro Vivant is Bistro/Brasserie in the heart of McLean in the greater Washington DC area. Effective February 11, 2012, Ed Hardy has taken over the kitchen. A native of Richmond, Hardy graduated third in the 2007 class of the former French Culinary Institute in New York. From there, he went on to work for some of the biggest names in the food business. Under Marcus Samuelsson, he was a line cook and sous chef at Aquavit and Red Rooster, respectively; under Gabriel Kreuther, Hardy served as a sous chef at The Modern and MoMa cafes. Most recently, he consulted for the Neighborhood Restaurant Group at the Columbia Firehouse in Alexandria.

Pictures: At the Dinner

The Menu

Picture: The Wines

Pike Quenelles on Toast


Picpoul, Pays de Mediterranee 2010 ($12)

A fresh, crisp, fruity summer wine with lots of acidity.


Maine Lobster and Grilled Seafood Sausage, Sauce Nantua


Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc "Andreas" 2011 ($50)

A white Châteauneuf du Pape. Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. A cuvee made for Eric’s son.

Eric Bonnet: “The grapes are pressed right after the harvest and fermented at 16°C by means of lactic acid fermentation. After that, the wine stays on the wine lees for six months and is finally filled into the bottles after a slight filtration procedure.”

Light, bright gold in the glass, notes of peach and white flowers on the nose, a medium-bodied wine, notes of grass coupled with hints of honey on the palate, a round wine with a good finish.


Rabbit with Fennel and Olive Broth + Rabbit Terrine with Clove spiced Quince


Lirac 'Reserve Saint Dominique' 2009 ($22)

Lirac is an AOC along the right bank of the Rhône river in the southern Rhône, situated between Orange and Avignon. It is named after the village of Lirac. On the opposite river bank is Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Medium purple ruby in the glass, notes of Kirsch and black fruit on the nose, fine structure, notes of roast earth, black and red fruit on the palate, long, fresh finish.


Vacqueyras 'Reserve Saint Dominique' 2010 ($22)

75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah.

Vacqueyras is an AOC in the southern Rhône wine region, along the banks of the River Ouvèze. It is primarily a red wine region. Located only a few kilometers south of Gigondas, Vacqueyras is often called the little brother of Gigondas.

Medium purple ruby in the glass, notes of blue and black fruit on the nose, spicy tannins on the palate, citric tannins mildly coating the insides of the lips, bright finish.

Smoked and Pan-Fried Veal Sweetbreads with Jerusalem Artichokes, Watercress, Black Truffle and Anchovy Dressing


Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Hesperides" 2007 ($70)

In 2008, Eric Bonnet decided to create a new wine and gave it the name Les Hespérides.

50% Grenache - 10% Syrah - 40% Mourvèdre

Deep ruby in the glass, notes of red fruits and flowers intermixed with incense, licorice and ink on the nose, good structure, blending richness and energy smoothly on the palate, excellent clarity and persistent spiciness on the finish.


Vivant Cheese Selections and Green Tomato Moutarde Preserve


Hermitage 2004 ($80)

Hermitage is an AOC in the northern Rhône wine region of France south of Lyon. It produces mostly red wine. Syrah is the primary grape.

Deep ruby in the glass, notes of plum, meat, and spices on the nose, solid acid/tannin backbone on the palate, full-bodied and mouth-filling, more open, more approachable than the 2005.

Hermitage 2005 ($80)

Deep ruby in the glass, notes of blackcurrant, gunflint and tobacco on the nose, a bigger nose than the 2004, full-bodied with good acidity and sweet tannin, still a bit closed on the palate. Hermitage is typically at its best between 10 and 20 years after the vintage, but the greatest examples from the strongest years can go on for several decades. This one should be put aside for many years.


Post Dinner Celebration

As it turned out, this was Domenico Cornacchia's birthday and there was a small post dinner celebration in a small group.


schiller-wine: Related Postings

The Wines of Domaine de la Solitude, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

Celebrating Paso Robles Wines and Classic American Cuisine - Winemaker Dinner at Jose Andres’ America Eats Tavern in Washington DC with 4 Paso Robles Winemakers, USA

Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

2010 Chateauneuf du Pape - First Wine Blogger Tasting at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Drinking the Wines of Stephane Derenoncourt at Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere in St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and at Boxwood Vineyard in Virginia, USA

The Wines of the 2010 Giro d'Italia

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013 

Rediscoverd: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany - A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

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Picture: Roland Ladendorf and Christian G.E. Schiller

I used to live in Mainz between 1973 and 1982, first as a student and later as an Assistant Professor at the University of Mainz. Student life was great there. We would finish up basically every evening in one of the many wine taverns, where you could have a couple of glasses of decent German wine and some basic regional food at reasonable prices. One of the many favorite hang-outs was Weinhaus Bluhm.

The following nearly 30 years, I spent as an international civil servant at the International Monetary Fund (IMF) in Washington DC and at external posts in Madagascar, Croatia and France. When being stationed at headquarters in Washington DC, my work consisted of doing technical assistance, economic review or program negotiations missions to the 180 plus member countries of the institution. These missions took me basically once every other month on a stop over for a couple of days to the Frankfurt International Airport. In addition, we spent a considerable part of our annual leave in Germany. So, I had plenty of opportunities to stay in touch with the wine scene in the greater Frankfurt am Main area, including Mainz. But Weinhaus Bluhm became one of the wine taverns I would not visit anymore on my stop-overs or when on annual leave in Frankfurt.

Pictures: Washington DC, Frankfurt am Main, Mainz

This changed radically, when I retired from the International Monetary Fund and partially relocated to Germany. I soon got the tip that Weinhaus Bluhm had a new owner and had become the Wine Mecca of Mainz. After several decades, I rediscovered Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz.

See:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Weinrallye # 60: Wiederentdeckt - Rediscovered


This posting is being published as part of the Weinrallye, a monthly blog event in Germany. Participating wine bloggers - mainly in Germany - are all releasing postings today under the heading "Wiederentdeckt" (Rediscovered). Weinrallye is the brainchild of Thomas Lippert, a winemaker and wine blogger based in Heidelberg, Germany. This month's wine rally is organized by Julia Richter from the food blog German Abendbrot.

The Place

Starting with the setting and atmosphere, Weinhaus Bluhm is a dark, a bit smoky, very basic tavern. It looks today the same as it looked when I first set foot into the Weinhaus Bluhm as a student of macro-economics at the Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz. The furniture is functional, used, a bit worn down. Weinhaus Bluhm offers a feeling of well-being and it has a lot of charm. In the summer, you can sit on the cobble stone road outside the tavern on communal benches. It cannot get better.

Pictures: Weinhaus Bluhm

Remember, all tables in wine taverns are communal tables. You sit with strangers at the same table and are expected to communicate with everyone at the table. Therefore, people also choose a wine tavern for the people they expect to meet and talk to in the tavern.

The People

Weinhaus Bluhm used to be a popular hang for young people with little money and the fans of the local football club Mainz 05, not necessarily interested in wine. This has changed over the past years since Silvia and Roland Ladendorf have taken over and shifted the focus to top class wines. It has become popular with people from the regional government (Rheinland Pfalz), professors of the Mainz University and journalists of the ZDF (one of the two large state channels in Germany). My hunch is that the quota of these people is rather high. The quota of out of town people and tourists appears to run close to zero.

The Food

The food at Weinhaus Bluhm is simple and very good. It does not reach out for some sophistication, as some of the other wine taverns do. It stays at the more basic range, but at the highest quality level. I can recommend the Mainzer Spundekaes for Euro 4.80, with lots of Bretzels. My wife had the Fleischwurst mit Brot for Euro 4.80 and our friend ate the Handkaes mit Musik for Euro 4.90. Only cold food is served, with the exception of the Rippchen mit Kraut for Euro 5.80. All is prepared in the small kitchen and served by Silvia Ladendorf.

Pictures: Handkaes, Spundekaes, Fleischwurst

The Wines

This leads us to the wines served at Weinhaus Bluhm. Here it really stands out, it is a class of itself. Nowhere else in a wine tavern in Mainz you can get wines from German wine stars like Weingut Klaus Peter Keller or Weingut Kruger Rumpf or Weingut Teschke. Roland is a wine aficionado and extremely knowledgeable about the wine scene. And what is most important, you can get a fair number of his world class wines by the glass.

Pictures: Weinhaus Bluhm

Of course, you can have a decent white wine in a typical Mainzer Stange, i.e. in 0.25 liter glass for around Euro 2.50. But you can also have the entry-level wine of Klaus Peter Keller in the 0.2 glass for Euro 4.50. And, you can have, for instance, a Klaus Peter Keller top wine in the 0.1 glass for Euro 4.50.

In addition to the large selection by the glass, Weinhaus Bluhm offers about 150 wines by the bottle. “I have all the wines of Klaus Peter Keller and Philipp Wittmann on my wine list” says Roland Ladendorf.

Silvia and Roland Ladendorf

Roland Ladendorf is a wine enthusiast. He has put much thought into his selection of wines which includes both famed and lesser known producers. Most of the producers he knows personally. He is very passionate about his wines and this is one of the reasons that make Weinhaus Bluhm a very special place. Before taking over Weinhaus Bluhm, Roland Ladendorf was a fruit and vegetable importer in the Frankfurt Grossmarkthalle. He was born in Gonsenheim, a suburb of Mainz.

Pictures: Roland Ladendorf

Roland is really passionate and a loves his wines. He can guide you through the evening or afternoon. When I go there, I just let him choose the wines. He would start at an entry-level wine and then during the course of the evening take me to his high-end wines, all by the 0.1 liter glass, the Piffchen as the people in Mainz say.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Meeting the Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Mirjam Schneider and Eva Vollmer of Mainz, Germany

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Wine in Mainz on Saturday Morning: Marktfruehstueck – Farmer's Market Breakfast, Germany

Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Wine Tavern Beichtstuhl in Mainz, Rheinhessen, Germany

Meeting the Winemakers of Mainz-Hechtsheim and Tasting Their Wines, Germany

Drinking RS Rheinhessen Silvaner - and other Wines of Weingut Alwin Schmitz - with Alwin Schmitz - and other Members of the Mainzer Weingilde - at Weingut Alwin Schmitz in Mainz, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

Winemaker Eva Vollmer is Germany’s Discovery of the Year 2010

In the Glass: Mirjam Schneider's 2007 Merlot No.2 from Rheinhessen, Germany

Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places where you can have Wine in Mainz, Germany (2011)

American Wines with German Roots

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Walter Schug in Carneros

This is a compilation of American wines or wineries that have in one way or another German roots. The German component can take different forms. 

First, the most extreme, I believe, is blending of grapes grown in America with grapes grown in Germany. It seems unusual, but it happens.

The second form is a joint venture of an American and a German wine maker, using American grapes.

Third, there are a number of winemakers in the US who make their wine in the US with American grapes, but who have learned how to make wine in Germany. They came to the US some years ago, are settled in the US and produce American wines, but you can see the German roots in the wines.

Fourth, there are wine producers in the US that were founded by Germans some time ago.

Blending American and German Grapes

NV Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, Pacific Rim – A German American Blend

Pacific Rim is a winery in Washington State that produces 190,000 cases of wine, almost all of which is Riesling made from Washington grapes. Pacific Rim was founded by Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm in 1992. He sold it a couple of years ago to the Banfi family as part of his general downsizing strategy.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Randall Grahm in San Francisco

One of the Rieslings that Pacific Rim used to produce was an intercontinental blend, made from grapes from Washington State and grapes from the Mosel area in Germany. 80 percent of the grapes come from the Columbia Valley in Washington State and 20 percent from the Mosel Valley, selected by the German wine maker Johannes Selbach. Because it was an intercontinental blend, the wine had to be labeled as a NV. Randall Grahm stopped using German grapes in 2008.

Fore more, see:
Pacific Rim Riesling #1 of Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Best Buy List 2011 - Meeting Founder Randall Grahm and Winemakers Nicolas Quille and Steven Sealock
Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine

Joint Ventures

Eroica in Washington State – A Joint Venture between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Ernst Loosen 

Eroica is a collaboration between Chateau Ste. Michelle, the huge Washington winemaker, and Dr. Ernst Loosen, the eminent Riesling producer from the Mosel region of Germany. The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley.

Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Ernst Loosen in Washington DC

Founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle pioneered European vinifera grape growing in Washington State and has been producing classic European varietal wines under the Ste. Michelle label since 1967. The Dr. Ernst Loosen Estate in the Mosel valley has produced fine Riesling for over two centuries. It is one of the top German wine estates.

They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular, dry Eroica, an ice wine and a Single Berry Selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style, for which the Mosel valley is so famous, and is one of the few TBAs in North America. This wine is made in very limited quantities and has scored a 98 in the Wine Spectator.

For more, see:
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

J. Christopher Wines in Oregon – Ernst Loosen’s Second Project in the USA

A more recent joint venture of Ernst Loosen is the Loosen Christopher Wines LLC with Jay Somers in Oregon. Jay Somers and Ernst Loosen met years ago. Their friendship led to a partnership, and in 2010, they began building a winery and vineyard in Newberg, Oregon. The new venture, Loosen Christopher Wines LLC, produces wines under the already-established “J. Christopher” brand. As winemaker for the joint venture, Jay is in charge of all winery operations. Ernst sees his role as that of an investor who both supports the growth of the brand and broadens the winery’s exposure to Old World ideas and techniques.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Jay Somers in Portland, Oregon

For more, see:
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Poet’s Leap Riesling in Washington State – A Joint Venture between Long Shadows and Schlossgut Diel

Long Shadows has become, in a short time, one of the premier wineries in Washington State. Based in Walla Walla, it is an unusual set up. Former Stimson-Lane CEO Allen Shoup works with renowned winemakers from around the world for this venture. Each winemaker creates a single wine using Washington State fruit. Add resident winemaker Gilles Nicault to shepherd all of the wines along.

One of the wines is the Poet’s Leap Riesling, made in joint ventue with Armin Diel, one of Germany’s most highly regarded Riesling producers. His family has owned the celebrated estate of Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in the Nahe river valley since 1802. Schlossgut Diel is international renowned for its white wines, predominately Rieslings, across a wide range of styles. Armin Diel is also one of Germany’s leading wine writers. Armin and his wife Monika live in Burg Layen. Their daughter Caroline just completed her studies in enology in Geisenheim, Germany’s UC Davis equivalent, and is now co-managing the winery in the Nahe Valley.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Armin Diel and Caroline Diel at Schlussgut Diel in Germany

Fore more, see:
Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made
Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

German Winemaker and American Grapes

Woelffer Estate on Long Island in New York State – All German, Except for the Grapes

The Woelffer Estate is located in the Hamptons on Long Island in New York State. The Woelffer Wine Estate, one of the top wine estates on Long Island, New York State, would not be what it is today without the two Germans Christian Woelffer, its founder, and Roman Roth, its wine maker.

Christian Wölffer was born in Hamburg, Germany. He made a successful career in investment banking, real estate, venture capital and agriculture in different countries, before moving into wine and establishing the critically acclaimed Woelffer Estate.

Christian Wölffer purchased land on Long Island in 1978. He joined the wine movement in 1987, when he started to grow wine, and became a driving force of wine making in the Long Island in the following years until his untimely death in 2008. In 1997, Christian Wölffer completed work on his state-of-the-art winery, unquestionably the most stylish on Long Island.

The other driving force behind the Wölffer Estate is the German winemaker Roman Roth. Born in Rottweil, Germany, Roth was a choirboy in his youth. In 1982, at age 16, he began a three-year apprenticeship at the Kaiserstuhl Wine Cooperative in Oberrotweil. Turning 20, Roman Roth traveled to California, where he worked at the Saintsbury Estate and Australia, where he worked at the Rosemount Estate. Back in Germany, for further study, Roth worked at the Winzerkeller Wiesloch in Baden.

The year 1992 became a turning point for Roman Roth for two reasons: first, he earned his Master Winemaker and Cellar Master degree from the College for Oenology and Viticulture in Weinsberg. And second, he accepted Christian Wölffer’s invitation to join him in New York to be the winemaker at what was then the mere start-up of a winery, at that time known as Sagpond Vineyards in Sagaponack.

Over the next several years, Roth managed the cultivation and expansion of the vineyards, which today number 50 acres, and the vinification, ultimately producing wines that embody the essence of the Hamptons appellation—ripe fruit and natural acidity born of a unique terroir, a lush combination of soil, sun, moisture and the ever-present maritime breezes from the nearby Atlantic Ocean.

For more, see:
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Dry Riesling, (2) Eroica, (3) Woelffer and his Schiller Wine
German Winemakers in the World: Christian Woelffer and Roman Roth

Otium Cellars in Virginia – German Ownership and German Grape Varieties

Otium Cellars is owned by the German Gerhard Bauer and located in Loudoun County, Virginia. Gerhard Bauer is the CEO of Frenzelit North America Inc., the Frenzelit headquarters in Germany.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Gerhard Bauer in Virginia

Gerhard Bauer started the winery a few years ago: “Rooted in old Franconian tradition, our boutique winery is taking wines in Northern Virginia to new heights. Our quest is focused on making high-quality wines.”

Planted in 2007, the vineyard is home to several German varietals: Lemberger, Dornfelder and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris).  “We believe wine is not only made in the cellar but is a philosophy and year-round effort in the vineyard. The vines are constantly being attended to during all four seasons. Each wine demonstrates the best aroma, character, and flavor you can achieve with the different grape varietals we cultivate . . . Each of our wines receive a specific treatment, and we call this Otium Terroir Management . . . Perfecting the ideal ripeness according to the year.”

Ben Renshaw has been working with Gerhard Bauer to produce and sell the wines of Otium Cellars while Gerhard Bauer’s winery was being built. Gerhard Bauer did his first planting on six and a half acres at Goose Creek Farms in 2007.

For more, see:
Tasting the “German” Otium Wines with Gerhard Bauer and Ben Renshaw at Otium Cellars, Virginia, USA 

Anthony Road Wine Company in the Finger Lakes, New York State – A German Winemaker, Johannes Reinhardt

The Anthony Road Wine Company, a top winemaker in the Finger Lakes region, caught international attention recently with their 2006 Finger Lakes Riesling Trockenbeeren, when it was awarded one of the 7 Trophies of Excellence of the Riesling Du Monde Competition 2010 in France.

Ann and John Martini opened the winery in 1990. It is on the west shore of Seneca Lake in the town of Torrey, about 10 miles south of Geneva. The German connection? The winemaker, Johannes Reinhardt, is a German native, born in at little village of Franconia, 80 miles east of Frankfort. Johannes grew up in a family that has been in the wine business since 1438. He has been in the vineyards and wine cellars all his life. He joined Anthony Road in 2000.

The award winning wine was released in the Martini-Rheinhardt Selection Series. These are special wines named after the Anthony Road’s vineyard manager, Peter Martini, and winemaker Johannes Reinhardt to honor the collaboration between the vineyard and the winery.

This is a lusciously sweet wine. How was it made? Mother Nature, under normal circumstances, produces dry wines in the vineyard - everywhere in the world. All the sugar in the grapes at harvest disappears during fermentation and no sweetness remains in the wine. There are, however, plenty of sweet wines made around the world. Different techniques exist to make a wine sweet. One of them is to let the noble rot – botrytis cinerea – suck the water out of the grape, so that the degree of sugar in the grapes is extra-ordinary high. Botrytis cinerea is a fungus that under the right conditions attacks already-ripe grapes, shrivelling them, concentrating the sweetness and acidity. The grapes end up looking disgusting but they make profound sweet white wines.

The 2008 Finger Lakes Riesling Trockenbeeren was produce with this method. 2008 was a good year for noble rot in the Finger Lakes region, with some rain, enough heat and fog or dew in the morning at harvest time.

For more, see:
Celebrating the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes Region, New York State, US East Coast 
The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

Walter Schug’s Sensational Pinot Noirs – A German in California

Walter Schug is one of California’s Pinot Noir pioneers. His home is Walter Schug Carneros Estate winery in Sonoma, California, but he was born and grew up in Assmannshausen in the Rheingau in Germany. He also received his formal training as winemaker in Germany. Walter Schug first made Pinot Noir in 1954, with his father in Assmannshausen in the Rheingau.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Walter Schug in Sonoma

Walter Schug was the first winemaker at Joseph Phelps in 1973, where he initially built a reputation for Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also made Pinot Noir. In 1989, Walter purchased 50 acres in the Sonoma portion of the Carneros Appellation for their new Carneros Estate.

For more, see:
California Pinot Noir Pioneer Walter Schug: From the Rheingau in Germany to Carneros in California
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California
Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California 

Anne Moller-Racke’s Donum Estate in California: Old World, Terroir-driven Winemaking in the New World 

Anne Moller-Racke is President and Winegrower at the Donum Estate in Sonoma, California. Now ten years old, the Donum Estate is a small producer of ultra-premium Pinot Noir wines.

Anne Moller-Racke’s live began in a small village in Germany, Oberwesel. It took a major turn, when she married Markus Racke from the Racke family. It took another turn, when the Racke family purchased the Buena Vista Carneros Estate in 1981 and she settled with Markus in California.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Anne Moller-Racke at Donum Estate in Sonoma

Anne quickly moved up the ranks at Buena Vista Carneros Estate. She became vineyard manager for Buena Vista Carneros Winery in 1983. She was named director of vineyard operations in 1988 and was promoted to vice president of vineyard operations in 1997.

Anne was instrumental in developing Buena Vista’s Carneros Estate, now the appellation’s largest vineyard, expanding the planted acreage from 540 in 1981, when the Racke family took over, to 935 a decade later, and supplying fruit to premier producers like Acacia, Etude and Sterling. In the 1990s, she also replanted over 500 acres, carefully innovating viticultural practices and selecting rootstocks, clones, trellising and irrigation techniques for each vineyard block.

Anne Moller-Racke’s life took another turn in 2001, when the Racke family sold the Buena Vista Carneros Estate. At the same time Markus and Anne divorced, after Markus had moved back to Germany to take over the management of the Racke Group 10 years earlier. Anne was able to split off 200 acres of the Buena Vista Estate to start her personal project, the Donum Estate. The name, Donum, translates from the Latin to “donation” and refers to grapes as a gift of the land.

Now ten years old, Anne farms 70 acres of vines at the home ranch, 20 acres of the venerable Ferguson Block in Carneros, and the Nugent Vineyard, an 11-acre Russian River Valley estate she planted in the mid-1990s. As caretaker of vineyards she has farmed for decades, Anne brings a vast knowledge of the appellations and sites to her role as wine grower.

The Donum Estate is leading the cadre of Pinot Noir producers in Carneros that are producing stunning wines to rival any made in California today.

Fore more, see:
Visiting Anne Moller-Racke and her Donum Estate in California: Old World, Terroir-driven Winemaking in the New World

Founded by Germans

Schramsberg – A Leading Sparkling Wine Producer Founded by a German

In 1826, in the small town of Pfeddersheim Germany, along the Rhine River, Jacob Schram was born. He came from a winemaking family. When he was sixteen, the young Schram immigrated to New York. He was educated in the trade of barbering, and in 1852 sailed across the Caribbean, crossed-over the Panama Isthmus, and continued up to San Francisco. He spent the next several years barbering, eventually moving his way north, to the Napa Valley.

In 1859 he married Annie Christine Weaver, also from Germany, and they started a family. For several years he continued to barber full time. Never far from his thoughts were his homeland and his roots in the vinelands of Germany. In 1862, Jacob purchased a large piece of land on the mountainsides of the Napa Valley. He was going to be a part of the emerging efforts by many fellow German countrymen in the Napa Valley to make wine; thus Schramsberg was born.

Korbel Champagne Cellars – A Leading Sparkling Wine Producer with Roots in Bohemia

Sparkling wine production in California dates to the late 1800s, when two groups -- Almaden Vineyards and the Korbel brothers -- offered their first bottles of sparklers (“Champagne”) for sale. Korbel Champagne Cellars was founded by 3 brothers -- Francis, Anton, and Joseph-- from Bohemia, which has historically been home to both Czechs and Germans and now is part of the Czech Republic. The first German University was founded in Bohemia. When the Korbel brothers were born, they were born in the Kingdom of Bohemia, which was, along with 39 other sovereign states, part of the German Confederation (Deutscher Bund).

It was the timber that first attracted the Korbel brothers to the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County in 1872. When the building boom subsided, they began to grow alfalfa, beets, corn, prunes, and wheat, and also began to plant vineyards on their Russian River property. In 1984, they brought a Prague winemaker named Frank Hasek to California. Hasek used the methode champenoise approach to making sparkling wine. By 1894, the Korbel brothers began to sell their sparklers and by the end of the 1800s, Korbel was an award-winning, internationally recognized label.

In the early 1950s, the Koerbel family sold the business to Adolf L. Heck, a third generation winemaker whose family had roots in the Alsace Loraine straddling France and Germany. In 1956, Adolf L. Heck reintroduced Korbel Brut, making it much lighter and drier than other American sparklers. He developed his own yeasts and introduced Korbel Natural, Korbel Blanc de Blancs, and Korbel Blanc de Noirs. Adolph Heck ran Korbel until his death in 1984. His son, Gary, took over as chairman of the board and Robert Stashak became Korbel's sparkling wine master.

For more, see:
German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US
The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

Charles Krug Winery and the Mondavis

The Charles Krug Winery has been owned for many decades by Mondavis, but it was founded by Charles Krug, a German. He was born as Karl Krug in Tendelburg, near Kassel, which at that time was part of Prussia. When he arrived in San Francisco in 1852, he came with no grape-growing or winemaking experience. He was a university-trained journalist (with controversial political beliefs – a supporter of the March revolution - for which he was briefly jailed in Prussia). Until 1854, he worked for the German San Francisco Staats-Zeitung.

In the following years, he would become the major local winery figure of his era, greatly influencing Napa Valley's development as a world-renown wine producing region. Charles Krug made the first commercial wine in the Napa Valley, and the winery he built in 1861 is where Napa wine began. His leadership was said to be inspirational. Innovations such as using a cider press to efficiently crush the grapes, planting insect-resistant rootstock, and establishing the first public tasting room, truly made him a founding father of the pioneer Napa Valley wine industry.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Peter Mondavi Jr. in Washington DC

When Charles Krug died in 1892, the winery was purchased by his close friend, James Moffitt, a San Francisco banker, who owned the winery through prohibition and sold the winery to Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, Italian immigrants, in 1943. Cesare was 60 when he purchased the winery for $75,000. His two sons, Peter and Robert, both went to Stanford, then came back to run the winery. Cesare died in 1959. The Mondavi brothers Peter and Robert could not agree on the general direction of the Charles Krug Winery and in 1966 there was the famous breakup between the two brothers. Robert left, was paid off and founded the Robert Mondavi Winery. Peter stayed and has been at the helm of the Charles Krug Winery since then.

There were tremendous enological, viticultural and marketing innovations that Peter Mondavi undertook during the last four decades. Among them were vintage dated varietals, pioneering cold fermentation and sterilization for white wines, use of small French oak barrels and glass lined steel tanks.

Meanwhile, Peter's two sons -- Marc and Peter Jr. - were educated at UC Davis and Stanford, respectively, and have been playing a major role in winemaking and winery management since the early 1980's. Marc oversees the vineyards and winemaking, while Peter Jr. manages marketing, sales and general winery functions.

Located one-and-a-half miles north of St. Helena, “the Charles Krug Winery focuses production on lush red Bordeaux style blends, New Zealand style Sauvignon Blanc and classically crafted Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel” said Peter. Over the years, the Charles Krug Winery has grown to 850 acres of estate land. The wine portfolio comprises three groups of wines.

Fore more, see
Morton’s Steakhouse Presented Peter Mondavi Jr. at a Charles Krug Winemaker Dinner

Dr. Konstantin Frank and the Vitis Vinifera Revolution on the US East Coast

Dr. Konstantin Frank (1897-1985) was a viticulturist and wine maker in the Finger Lakes region of New York State, USA. He was born in Europe, in Odessa, now Ukraine into a Russian-German family. Dr. Konstantin Frank ignited the so-called vitis vinifera revolution, which changed the course of wine growing in the Finger Lakes and the North-East of the US.

Well, was Dr. Konstantin Frank a German? He was born in the former Soviet Union into a family with German roots. The Germans came in waves from the West to Russia and settled there from the 16th century onwards. A big wave of German immigration occurred in the 18th century under Catherine the Great, who herself was a German from Anhalt. The Frank family belongs to the Black Sea Germans. At the time Konstantin Frank was born, Odessa belonged to the Russian Empire. When he left for the US, it was part of the Soviet Union. Now, after his death, it has become Ukraine. I met Dr. Konstantin Frank's grandson, Fred, who now owns and runs the estate this year; we communicated in German. Fred got his wine growing and wine making training at the wine college in Geisenheim in the Rheingau, Germany.

Dr. Konstantin Frank’s achievement is that he was the first to find a way to plant vitis vinifera varietals in the cool northern fringes of the north-eastern US. The struggle to do this goes back many centuries.

In the original charter of the 13 colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter, but made only limited progress. The problem was that on the one hand there were the native American grapes. All these native American grapes were cold tolerant and disease and pest resistant, but not that well suited for wine making, due to their coarseness, high tannins, and foxy flavors. On the other hand, the vitis vinifera which settlers brought from Europe, were well suited for wine making, but uniformly unable to survive long enough to produce a crop.

Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. And they had some success. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed.

So, only native American grapes and European American hybrids were grown in the Finger Lakes area, when Dr. Konstantin Frank arrived in the United States in 1951, finding work at a Cornell University experimental station in the Finger Lakes region. Having grown vitis vinifera back home in regions so cold that "spit would freeze before touching the ground" Dr. Frank believed that the lack of proper rootstock, not the cold climate, was the reason for the failure of vitis vinifera in the Finger Lakes region. He thought that European grapes could do well on the rolling, well-drained hills around the Finger Lakes provided they were grafted onto early maturing American rootstock.

With the help of the French champagne maker Charles Fournier, Dr. Frank put his ideas into practice. He developed the right root stock and grafted European vitis vinifera on them. He planted these vitis vinifera in the slate soil around Lake Keuka and he opened a winery, Vinifera Wine Cellars, in 1962. Despite his success, other winemakers still doubted him for many years and he had trouble getting New York distributors to handle his wine.

Today, Dr. Frank is recognized as having led the revolution in wine quality in New York State and the East Coast. With the help of his cousin Eric Volz as vineyard manager, Fred Frank, Konstantin's grandson took over the winery in 1993. Fred’s business degree from Cornell University and his study of viticulture and enology in Germany helped prepare him to take over the family business.

For more, see:
German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

Hermann J. Wiemer from the Mosel Valley and the Riesling Revolution in the Finger Lakes

Hermann J. Wiemer is another pioneer of viticulture and winemaking in the Finger Lakes region with German links. He was born and raised in Germany, and arrived in the US in 1968. His first wine was released in 1980. In the 30 years since then, the winery has been lauded as one of the nation’s premier white wine producers, in particular of Riesling. Hermann J. Wiemer was born in Bernkastel into an influential family in the wine business. Hermann's father was the head of the Agricultural Experiment Station in Bernkastel and was responsible for restoring vines in the Mosel region after WWII. He came to the US in the early 1970s. When he arrived, wine making in the Finger Lakes area was dominated by native American grapes and American European hybrid grapes. Riesling, for which Hermann J. Wiemer has become famous, was not grown. Initially, he made hybrid and American wines for Walter Taylor at the Bully Hill winery on Keuka Lake.

In 1973 Hermann J. Wiemer bought 140 acres of land, the barn and a mid-19th-century house on the west side of Route 14, which runs along Seneca Lake and turned it into one of the premier vineyards and nurseries in the region. Starting with four acres, he developed the right root stock for grafting European vinifera on them. The first vintage, a 1979, was released in 1980. Hermann Wiemer quickly became known for his German-style vinifera wines. He claims that he made the first dry Riesling in the US and said that many scoffed at him for making Riesling even though today it's the flagship wine grape variety of the region. Wiemer has three estate vineyards within 10 miles of the winery on the west side of Seneca Lake: Magdalena, Josef, and HJW. The vineyards are farmed under strict sustainable agricultural practices.

Hermann J. Wiemer retired a few years ago. Today the winemaking process is managed by Hermann J Wiemer’s long-term winemaker Fred Merwarth who has worked closely with Hermann as one of his winemakers for the last 8 years. Hermann is still passionately and practically involved in the life of the winery, and Fred continues faithfully executing the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard legacy and heritage.

Fore more, see:
German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, 1900/2000, Finger Lakes, US

Robert Stemmler’s Sensational Pinot Noirs – A German in California

Robert Stemmler, a native from Germany, is another early and passionate producer of outstanding California Pinot Noir. He arrived in Napa Valley in 1961 after making wine for nearly a decade in Germany. In 1976, he founded his own winery in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley and in 1982, having found a cool-climate Russian River Valley fruit source, released his first Pinot Noir to great critical acclaim. Robert traveled tirelessly promoting his Pinot Noir at tastings dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay producers, and he steadily developed his own following.

Fore more, see:
German winemakers in the World: Robert Stemmler (USA) 

The Beringer Brothers and the Rhine House from Mainz in Germany

Beringer Vineyards is the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. In 2001, the estate was placed on the National Register for Historic Places as a Historic District.

Jacob Beringer left his home in Mainz, Germany, in 1868 to start a new life in the U.S., enticed by his brother, Frederick, who had sailed to New York five years earlier and wrote home constantly of the grand opportunities to be found in the vast new world. New York did not appeal to Jacob, however. He had enjoyed working in wine cellars in Germany when he was younger and had heard that the warm, sunny climate of California was ideal for growing wine grapes. So in 1870 he traveled by train from the East Coast, first to San Francisco and then on to Napa Valley. To his delight, he discovered rocky, well-drained soils similar to those in his native Rhine Valley.

Jacob and Frederick together bought land in 1875 and set about making wines that compared to the best in Europe . In 1876, they founded the Beringer Winery. In 1883, Frederick permanently moved to the Napa Valley and began construction of a 17-room mansion – the Rhine House- that was to be his home—a re-creation of the Beringer family home located on the Rhine River in Germany.

Today, Beringer Winery is owned by the Beringer (Wolfgang) Blass Group from Australia. The Beringer Winery has 4200 hectares of land under vine, more than the whole Rheingau region. Incidentially, Wolfgang Blass is also a native of Germany and considered to be the “father” of the Australian wine industry.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) NV Two Worlds Pinot Noir, (2) Poet's Leap Riesling and (3) Herrmann Wiemer's Finger Lakes Rieslings

Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made

Visiting Winemaker Steven Sealock at Pacific Rim Winemakers in Washington State, USA

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

California Pinot Noir Pioneer Walter Schug: From the Rheingau in Germany to Carneros in California

German winemakers in the World: Robert Stemmler (USA)

Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California

German Wine Makers in the World: The Korbel Brothers from Bohemia Introduced "Champagne" to the US

President Obama Serves a “German” Riesling at State Dinner for Chinese President Hu Jintao

German Winemakers in the World: Hermann J. Wiemer, 1900/2000, Finger Lakes, US

German Wine Makers in the World: Dr. Konstantin Frank (USA)

German Winemakers in the World: Christian Woelffer and Roman Roth

Celebrating the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes Region, New York State, US East Coast

State Dinner at the White House: Chancellor Merkel Dined and Wined with President Obama - The Wines they Drank and the Wines they did not Drink

The Wines and the Food at President Obama’s Inauguration Luncheon, January 21, 2013, USA

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

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Picture: Didier Cuvelier and Christian G.E. Schiller lunching at Château Léoville-Poyferré

I recently had the honor and pleasure to have lunch with Didier Cuvelier at his Château Léoville-Poyferré. The lunch was preceded by a tour of the winery. I have provided a general introduction to Didier Cuvelier at his Château Léoville-Poyferré here: Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

The Cuvelier Family in the North of France, in Bordeaux and in Argentina

The story begins in 1804 when Henri Cuvelier set out to share his great passion for fine wine with his friends of the grand bourgeoisie residing in the rich and dynamic towns of the North of France, including Lille, Boulogne Sur Mer, Arras, and Valenciennes. To this aim, he created Maison de Négoce de Vins Henri Cuvelier in Haubourdin, a wine merchant company whose success continued to develop throughout the 19th century.

100 years later, at the beginning of the 20th century, Paul Cuvelier and his young brother Albert, decided to purchase top quality estates in the Bordeaux area. They bought Château Le Crock in 1903, then Château Camensac in 1912 and finally the prestigious Château Léoville Poyferré as well as Chateau Moulin Riche in 1920.

Picture: Touring Chateau Leoville Poyferre with Didier Cuvelier

In 1947, Max Cuvelier, under the instructions of his associates, opened a second Wine Merchant company in Bordeaux, moving nearer to the family properties.

Two of Max Cuvelier’s children have taken over the family’s activities in Bordeaux: Didier Cuvelier has been running Chateau Leoville Poyferre, Chateau Moulin-Riche and Chateau Le Crock since 1979 and Olivier Cuvelier has been managing the Wine Merchant company H. Cuvelier and Fils in Bordeaux since 1985.

The Haubourdin wine merchant company was sold in 2002. The name has remained unchanged and it continues to distribute the Cuvelier estates wines.

Pictures: Didier Cuvelier Explaining

In 1998, the Cuvelier family started to branch out to Argentina. Bertrand Cuvelier accompanied Michel Rolland in his great Argentine project, which was to become the« Clos de Los Siete »group. Three years later, Jean-Guy Cuvelier decided to join his cousin Bertrand in the joint aim of building a Winery and producing fine wines worthy of the family tradition. Since then, the Winery has been built and each year the vines of Cuvelier Los Andes have contributed 50% of their production to « Clos de Los Siete », the wine signed by Michel Rolland. The success of this wine is worldwide due to the exceptional value for money it offers.

Château Léoville - Poyferré, Barton and Las-Cases

The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré – one of the 3 Léoville estates that currently exist - in 1920.

The 3 Léoville chateaux are the result of vast property broken up a long time ago. But up until the French Revolution, Léoville was the largest Médoc wine-growing property.

The story of the 3 Léoville estates go back to 1638. At the time, the estate was called Mont-Moytié, named after its founder, Jean de Moytié. Domaine Mont-Moytié remained in the family for almost 100 years. It is through the marriage of one of the Moytié women that the estate passed into the hands of Blaise Antoine Alexandre de Gascq, who was the seigneur of Léoville and a president of the Bordeaux parliament.

The groundwork for the split was laid in 1769, when Blaise Antoine Alexandre de Gascq died without an obvious heir. As a consequence the Léoville estate was inherited by four family members. One of them was  the Marquis de Las-Cases-Beauvoir. One quarter was sold off by the four heirs. A number of years later, in 1826, this part of Léoville estate was purchased by Hugh Barton and became Château Léoville Barton.

The other three quarters remained in the family. This was the state of affairs when the Marquis was succeeded in 1815 by his son, Pierre-Jean and his daughter, Jeanne. Pierre-Jean inherited what is now Château Léoville Las Cases, whilst the portion that came to Jeanne was passed onto her daughter, who married Baron Jean-Marie de Poyferré; this is the part that is today Château Léoville-Poyferré.

Although the estate bears the name of the Poyferré family to this day, it was not in their ownership for a long time. But it was under the ownership of the Poyferré family when the estate was classified as a deuxième cru in 1855 (as were the Barton and Las-Cases estates).

In 1865 Château Léoville-Poyferré was purchased by Baron d'Erlanger and Armand Lalande, bankers and local courtiers. The Lalande family, and later through marriage also the Lawton family, were in charge of Château Léoville-Poyferré until after World War I had passed. The Cuvelier family bought Château Léoville-Poyferré in 1920.

While the vineyards were separated, the buildings remained connected, just as they are today.

Didier Cuvelier and Château Léoville Poyferré

In the beginning, the Cuveliers did not operate their chateaux themselves. Roger Delon, one of the owners of Chateau Leoville Las Cases was the first to manage Chateau Léoville-Poyferré. This changed in 1979 with the accession of Didier Cuvelier, who at 26 became the first member of his family to take charge of Leoville Poyferre, along with Moulin Riche and Le Crock. Didier Cuvelier put Leoville Poyferre on the map of wine lovers all over the world. Didier Cuvelier trained as a chartered accountant before passing the DUAD (a university diploma in wine tasting) in 1976.

When he arrived in 1979, Didier Cuvelier embarked on an extensive program of renovation in the vineyard. Having previously been strong on Merlot, under the direction of Didier Cuvelier the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon more than doubled, from 30% to its current figure of 65%, the balance being 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The vineyard area now totals 80 hectares, compared with 48 hectares in 1979.

Pictures: Tasting after the Tour

In 2010, the vat rooms were completely renovated. 10 large vats were replaced with 20 new, stainless steel double skin vats with a capacity from 60 hectoliters to 165 hectoliters.

The grand vin is Château Léoville-Poyferré (20000 cases). Typically the oak is 75% new each year. Wines produced from the plots once belonging to Château Moulin Riche (17000 cases) are vinified completely in cuve, before transfer into a mix of new and one-year-old barrels. The second wine is Pavillon de Poyferré.

Château Le Crock

The first purchase made by the Cuvelier family was their property in St. Estephe, Chateau Le Crock in 1903.

Today the vineyards of Château Le Crock cover a total of 32.5 hectares and touch two of the most prestigious châteaus of the appellation, Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Montrose.

The vines are 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.

In the (annulled) 2003 Classification, it was a Cru Bourgeois Superieur. The 2010 Chateau Le Crock qualified for the Cru Bourgeois Label.

Chateau Moulin Riche

Chateau Moulin Richewas bought in 1920 by the Cuvelier family. In 2003, it was incorporated in the Chateau Léoville-Poyferré vineyards.

Lunch

Lunch was served in the large, new reception hall of Chateau Léoville-Poyferré.

Pictures: Lunch with Didier Cuvelier in the large, new reception hall of Chateau Léoville-Poyferré

Fricassee of Monkfish, Cockles and Clams in Saffron Butter


Fillet Mignon


Cheese

Poached Williams Pear in Caramelized Custard


Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2007

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 74
Deep red garnet color in the glass, nose of cedar and tobacco, easy drinking, soft on the palate, a pleasure, given the relatively low price.


Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2000

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 202
Deep red garnet color in the glass, tobacco, cedar, earth, wood, chocolate nose, a big wine, with good tannins and a long finish.


Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 1996

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 147
Deep red garnet color in the glass, notes of tobacco combined with gravel and sweet blackcurrant fruit on the nose, full bodied on the palate, good acidity and a good length finish.

Chateau Le Crock 2005

Wine Searcher Average Price: US$ 51
Red garnet color in the glass, notes of red fruits and smoke on the nose, good structure, medium long finish with some notes of roasted coffee.


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The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany 

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Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

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Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

Governor’s Cup Competition 2013, Virginia, USA

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Picture: Daniele Tessaro, Associate Winemaker of Barboursville Vineyards, and Rachel Martin, Boxwood's General Manager. The Picture was taken at TasteCamp 2012, for more, see: TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont

Barboursville Vineyards wins 2013 Governor’s Cup

Governor Bob McDonnell awarded the 2013 Virginia Wineries Association's Governor's Cup to Barboursville Vineyards' 2009 Octagon. By winning this year's Governor's Cup, Barboursville becomes the first Virginia winery to win the award four times. Barboursville also won in 1992 (1988 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve), 1999 (1997 Cabernet Franc), and 2007 (1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve).

Barboursville Vineyards is located in the Monticello American Viticulture Area of Central Virginia, in and around the Charlottesville region. The historic Virginia winery is located on the estate of James Barbour, former Governor of Virginia, in Barboursville. The winery was founded in 1976 by Gianni Zonin, a prominent Italian winemaker whose family has roots in Italian viticulture going back to 1821. The Zonin Group is based in Vicenza, Italy. Barboursville is Zonin's sole American venture.

Barboursville's award-winning Octagon is a Meritage-style blend of the winery's best Bordeaux varietals. The wine is made only in top vintage years. The 2009 vintage is comprised of 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

"It has been a pleasure and a reward to follow the evolution of the 2009 vintage of Octagon. Since harvest I took notice of its promising characters, and I was not shy to share with many that it was destined to be among the best wines I will ever produce in my life," said Luca Paschina, Barboursville's General Manager and Winemaker.

2013 Virginia Governor's Cup Competition

The 2013 Virginia Governor's Cup Competition was conducted over two weeks of tasting. The preliminary tastings were held over ten days at the Capital Wine School in Washington DC, while the final round of tastings was held at the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond.

Picture: Owner Rutger de Vink, RdV Vineyards and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours, at a Bordeaux Tasting in Washington DC in 2013; for more, see: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

The Governor's Cup award winner was selected from the 2013 Governor's Cup Case, the top 12 scoring wines of the competition, which were selected from 377 entries of both red and white wines, from 93 wineries.

Governor’s Cup Case

In addition to Barboursville's 2009 Octagon, the other 11 top scoring wines of the competition, forming the Governor's Cup Case, are:

•    Cooper Vineyards – 2010 Petite Verdot Reserve
•    King Family Vineyards – 2010 Meritage
•    Lovingston Winery – 2009 Josie's Knoll Estate Reserve (Meritage)
•    Philip Carter Winery – 2010 Cleve (Petite Verdot, Tannat)
•    Pollak Vineyards – 2009 Cabernet Franc Reserve
•    Potomac Point Vineyard and Winery – 2010 Richland Reserve Heritage (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Petite Verdot)
•    Rappahannock Cellars – 2010 Meritage
•    RdV Vineyards – 2010 Rendevous (Meritage)
•    RdV Vineyards – 2010 Lost Mountain (Meritage)
•    Sunset Hills Vineyard – 2010 Mosaic (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot)
•    Trump Winery – 2008 Sparkling Rose (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir)

20 Gold Medals (90 to 100 Points)

Twenty gold medals were awarded, up from 13 last year — possibly a reflection of the strong 2010 vintage, which provided most of those winners. Medals were awarded based on the following average of scores:

•    Gold Medal – Outstanding/Classic, 90-100 points
•    Silver Medal – Very Good, 85-89 points
•    Bronze Medal – Good, 80-84 points

The Gold Medalists

•    Barboursville Vineyards, 2009 Octagon
•    Bluemont Vineyard, 2010 Cabernet Franc
•    Cooper Vineyards, 2010 Petit Verdot Reserve
•    Glen Manor, 2010 Hodder Hill
•    Keswick Vineyards, 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Reserve
•    King Family Vineyards, 2010 Meritage (unfiltered)
•    Lovingston Winery, 2009 Josie’s Knoll Estate Reserve Meritage
•    Philip Carter Winery, 2010 Cleve (Petit Verdot, Tannat)
•    Pollak Vineyards, 2009 Cabernet Franc Reserve
•    Potomac Point Vineyad & Winery, 2010 Richland Reserve Heritage Red
•    Rappahannock Cellars, 2010 Meritage
•    RdV Vineyards, 2010 Rendevous (Meritage)
•    RdV Vineyards, 2010 Lost Mountain (Meritage)
•    Shenandoah Vineyards, 2010 Cabernet Franc
•    Shenandoah Vineyards, 2010 Rhapsody in Red
•    Sunset Hills Vineyard, 2010, Mosaic Red
•    Trump Winery, 2008 Sparkling Rose
•    Virginia Wineworks, 2010 Shaps Wild Meadow Vineyard
•    Virginia Wineworks, 2010 Cabernet Franc, Carter’s Mountain Vineyard
•    Virginia Wineworks, 2008, Cabernet Franc, Red Hill Reserve

Nine of the 20 gold medalists were red blends of Bordeaux grape varieties, suggesting once again that Virginia’s best wines are blends rather than single-variety wines. Advocates of Cabernet Franc as Virginia’s red grape, however, will point to the five golds won by wines with that variety on the label. Interesting — and not surprising to some — not one Viognier in the bunch.

Wine Producer Virginia

Virginia is the 5th largest wine industry in the US, with 230 wineries and 2,500 acres of vineyards. Sales of Virginia wine reached a record high in fiscal year 2012 with more than 485,000 cases sold.

In the original charter of the thirteen colonies was a royal commission to pursue three luxury items that England was unable to provide for itself: wine, silk, and olive oil. Every colony made attempts to satisfy the requirements of its charter. Despite many years of failure, the early Americans persisted in their efforts. A big step forward was made in 1740 when a natural cross pollination occurred between a native American grape and a European vitis vinifera. Other successful crossings followed.

Picture: Virginia

In 1762, John Carter, who had 1,800 vines growing at Cleve Plantation, sent 12 bottles to the Royal Society of Encouragement of the Arts, Manufacture and Commerce in London for their evaluation. Minutes of their meeting on the 20th of October 1762 declared Carter’s wines to be “excellent” and a decision was taken to reward Carter’s efforts with a gold medal for his wines. These were the first internationally recognized fine wines produced in America.

Over the past 30 years or so, Virginia wines have experienced a tremendous development - to elegant and balanced, mostly European vinifera-based wines. Recently, Donald Trump as well as AOL founder Steve Case bought a Virginia winery.

Today, the vitis vinifera grapes Chardonnay and Viognier are the leading white varieties. Increasingly they are made without any or with neutral oak, to retain natural acidity and freshness. It appears Viognier is on its way to becoming Virginia’s official “signature grape”.

Picture: Winemaker Jeremy Ligon from Philip Carter Winery

For French-American hybrid varieties, Seyval Blanc is still popular, but resembles now the fresh and crisp wines from France’s South West. Vidal has become the backbone of the artificially frozen (cryoextraction), ice wine which I am not a great fan of.  Cryoextraction is an approach, developed by the French, which kind of simulates the frost in the vineyard in the wine cellar.

As far as red wines are concerned, there has been a shift from straight varietal wines to blends, with the blends now being dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Mirroring the Virginia white wines, there is an increasing focus on neutral oak and clean, vibrant fruit.

Tannat, Uruguay’ signature grape from the South West of France, is showing up in more Virginia wines, usually as a blend. The only red French American hybrid which has performed consistently well in Virginia is Chambourcin, which resembles the Gamay grape of Beaujolais.

Finally, Claude Thibault, a native from France, has taken Virginia sparkling wines to a new level. His NV Thibault-Janisson Brut, made from 100 percent Chardonnay, which President Obama offered his guests at his first state dinner, is as close as you can get to Champagne outside of France.

See:
As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Northern Virginia Magazine October 2012: Wine Recs from Local Winos

Visiting Jennifer Breaux Blosser and Breaux Vineyards in Virginia, USA

Virginia Wines Shine in San Francisco - 2012 San Francisco International Wine Competition, USA

Judging Virginia Wines in Suffolk, Virginia - Virginia Wine Lover Magazine Wine Classic 2012

A New Winery in Virginia - The Barns at Hamilton Station Vineyards, USA

As Close as You Can Get to (French) Champagne at the US East Coast – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar

Jim Law and Linden Vineyards in Virginia – A Profile, USA

As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

Boxwood Winery in Virginia: Lunch with Wine Makers Rachel Martin and Adam McTaggert in the Chai between the Tanks – TasteCamp 2012 East Kick-Off, USA

Book Review: "Beyond Jefferson's Vines - The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia" by Richard Leahy, USA

An Afternoon with Jordan Harris, Winemaker of Tarara, Virginia, USA

TasteCamp 2012 in Virginia, USA – A Tour d’Horizont

Texas, Virginia, Missouri, Colorado …. Maryland: Drink Local Wine Conference 2013 in Baltimore, Maryland, USA

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Picture: Maryland Wineries Association (MWA)

Drink Local Wine will hold its fifth annual conference April 13, 2013 in Baltimore, focusing on Maryland wine. The state’s industry is one of the fastest growing in the country, and its 61 wineries are almost 50 percent more than in 2010.

The state’s four growing regions allow it to produce a variety of wines, including the classic European varietals but also some that are distinctly New World in style. The Maryland Wineries Association is the conference’s primary sponsor.

“We’re growing a world of wine styles and varieties throughout Maryland, and we’re excited to share them through Drink Local Wine,” says Kevin Atticks, the Maryland Wine Association’s executive director.

DLW 2013 will include a Grand Tasting of Maryland Wines and Twitter Taste-off, featuring two dozen of the state’s best wineries, on April 13, plus three seminars featuring some of the top names in Maryland wine.

For more information and to register go here or here.

A Bunch of History

Maryland’s modern wine history dates to the 1970s, but grapes have been planted in the area since the 17th century. Most of the state’s wineries are in the Piedmont Plateau in central Maryland, but grapes also thrive in the Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, and Western Mountains.

Grapes have been grown in Maryland since 1648, but not even John Adlum – one of our earliest growers who became known as the “Father of American Viticulture” – would have predicted that over 90 varieties of grapes are being grown commercially in The Free State.

Picture: Maryland

Maryland’s 60+ wineries are producing incredible wines from locally-grown grapes, fruit and honey, and selling their bottles (and even bag-in-boxes, etc.) to over 1,200 wine shops and restaurants in Maryland, DC and beyond.

Maryland Blue Crabs

Of course, the focus of the 2013 Drink Local Wine Conference in Maryland will be on the exciting wines of Maryland. But I hope that I (and other conference participants) will also have a chance to taste Maryland’s delicious seafood, in particular Chesapeake Bay Blue Crab dishes. Last year in May, wine guru and Maryland resident Robert J. Parker tweeted: “Maryland’s greatest culinary delicacy – blue channel soft-shelled crabs are starting to arrive … lightly floured and sautéed in butter.” Maryland – with the large Chesapeake Bay – is indeed blessed with Blue Crabs which came in different forms, when you eat them at a Crab Shack.

The Blue Crab

The blue crab is a crustacean found in the waters of the western Atlantic Ocean, the Pacific Coast of Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. Male and female blue crabs can be distinguished by their "aprons", or their abdomens. Male crabs have a long, narrow apron, while mature female crabs have a wide, rounded one.

Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay, located mainly in Maryland is famous for its blue crabs. Chesapeake Bay Blue Crabs undergo a seasonal migration; after mating, the female crab travels to the southern portion of the Chesapeake, fertilizing her eggs with sperm stored up from the last mating months or almost a year later. In November or December, the female crab releases her eggs. The crabs hatch in a larval form and float in the mouth of the bay for four to five weeks, then the juvenile crabs make their way back up into the bay.

Four Ways to Eat Chesapeake Blue Crabs

Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Blue crabs are most often eaten in the hard shell. Steaming them in large pots with water, vinegar and seasoning is the norm on the East coast. You need the whole experience: the smell of steamed crabs in the air, a pile of large steamed blue crabs covered with Old Bay Seasoning, ready to be cracked with wooden mallets, accompanied by corn on the cob, plus a roll of paper towels and a metal bucket for tossing the empty shells.

The cooked crabs are cracked by hand, but most diners will use a small knife to pry the shell apart and cut the unwanted parts from the crab. The meat is pulled out and eaten directly.

Picture: Hard Shell Blue Crabs

Crab shells can be very sharp and because the interior of the crab comprises a series of compartments separated by a somewhat pliable but still sharp shell, getting the meat out is also a lot of work for the relatively small amount of edible crab meat.

Soft Shell Crabs

The Chesapeake Bay is famous for its soft-shell blue crabs. As crabs grow larger, their shells cannot expand, so they molt the exteriors and have a soft covering for a matter of days when they are vulnerable and considered usable. Crabs caught just after molting are prepared as soft shell crabs: first cutting out the gills, face, and guts; the crab is then battered in flour, egg, and seasoning, then fried in oil until crispy. The entire crab is consumed, legs and all.


Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller eating Soft Shell Crabs

Usually crabs must be eaten within four days of molting to be useful as soft-shell crabs. They begin to rebuild their shells after that, and when eaten, have a thin shell. These are often referred to as “papershells” or “tinbacks” and are more crunchy when eaten, making them less desirable.

This molting is highly seasonal and usually lasts from early May to July in the Chesapeake Bay. The soft shell season is longer in other regions.

Crab Cake

Crab cakes is another delicacy. Crab Cakes are basically Hamburgers made out of crab meat. We ate it recently as a starter with tomatoes and avocado on the side.

Picture: Maryland Crab Cake

See more:
Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA 

Maryland Crab Soup

Usually I start my crab dinner with a Maryland Crab Soup. This is a kind of an Italian Minestrone with crab meat. The other fish soup I have come to like on the US East Coast is the New England Clam chowder. New England clam chowder is a milk- or cream-based chowder, traditionally made with potatoes, onion, bacon or salt pork, flour or hardtack, and clams.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours, eating Maryland Crab Soup

See more:
Maryland Crabs and Wine
Schiller's World of Seafood

There is a Wine Industry in all 50 US States

The US is the 4th largest wine producing country in the world, after France, Italy, and Spain. Wine is now produced in all 50 States, with California, Washington State and Oregon leading the way. However, some States outside the Northwest do not grow popular vitis vinifera grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay very easily, and some wineries in the smaller wine-producing States buy juice or grapes from other States. For reviews of wines from all 50 States go to here for an excellent Time Magazine article. (http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1837245,00.html)

Drink Local Wine Conferences: 2009 to 20013

The Drink Local Wine goal is to spotlight wine made in the 47 states and Canada that aren't California, Washington, and Oregon. It's the brainchild of Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre and wine blogger Jeff Siegel, the Wine Curmudgeon.

So far, 4 annual conferences have taken place:

in Dallas featuring Texas wine in 2009,
in Loudoun County featuring Virginia wine in 2010,
in St. Louis featuring Missouri wine in 2011, and
in Denver featuring Colorado wine in 2012.

This is my third DLW conference; I participated in the Virginia and Missouri conferences and have written about them on schiller-wine.

For Virginia, see:
The 2010 DrinkLocalWine Conference in Virginia, US

For Missouri, see:
Drink Local Wine Conference 2011 in St. Louis: The World of Missouri Wine
Wine Producer Missouri– Once a Major Force in the US Wine Market, Then Non-existant and Now on a Rebound with French American Hybrid Grapes

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Drink Local Wine Conference 2011 in St. Louis: The World of Missouri Wine

Wine Producer Missouri– Once a Major Force in the US Wine Market, Then Non-existant and Now on a Rebound with French American Hybrid Grapes

In the Oldest AVA - American Viticultural Area - Augusta in Missouri

French American Hybrid Grapes - Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Others

Maryland Crabs and Wine

The 2010 DrinkLocalWine Conference in Virginia, US

Thomas Jefferson, 3. President of the United States, Visited Hochheim, Germany on April 10,1978

New Hampshire, US: Cheese ... Lobster and Oysters ... and Wine!

Wine Region: Upcoming Long Island, New York State

Wine and Crab Cakes: Amy Brandwein from Casa Nonna and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 6th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Schiller's World of Seafood

Dining on the Cutting-edge - Daniel Singhofen’s Eola in Washington DC, USA

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Chef Daniel Singhofen at Eola

When President Obama was elected for the second time as President of the United States of America, Todd Kliman from the monthly “Washingtonian” wrote a piece entitled “Where Barack Obama Should Eat Out During His Second Term”. One of the recommendations was Eola:

“You and Michelle have done well in this category, having already logged meals at Citronelle (now temporarily closed), Tosca, Vermilion, and Komi. The next restaurants on your list should be two Dupont Circle-area gems: Eola and Little Serow. Both are independently owned, with kitchens that are—to put it in political terms—rigorously “on message.” Eola serves a rustic version of contemporary American cooking in a charming rowhouse; Little Serow (from Komi chef Johnny Monis) is a spicy and thrilling tour of northern Thailand.”

Annette Schiller from Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours selected Eola for a winemaker dinner with Co-owner Anne Cuvelier, Château Léoville Poyferré on May 1, 2013 and we went there for discussing the winemaker dinner with Daniel Singhofen and Sommelier Darlin Kulla, and had dinner ourselves, with our friend Gunther.

Picture: Annette Schiller from Ombiasy PR and Wine Tours and Chef Daniel Singhofen at Eola

Château Léoville Poyferré in St.Julien, Boredaux, is a 2ième grand cru classé; the 2010 grand vin just got 98+ points by Robert Parker. The wine searcher average price is currently 155US$ per bottle.

Picture: Annette Schiller, Didier Cuvelier and Christian Schiller at Château Léoville Poyferré in St.Julien, Boredaux

See more:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013
Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Eola

In a nutshell, at Eola expect to spend the evening dining on the cutting-edge at an innovative New American restaurant, where a $75 five-course prix fixe menu (no à la carte) is served at a leisurely pace in a quiet townhouse with beautiful aged wooden floors and sparsely decorated with exposed bricks and ochre walls.

Pictures: Eola

Restaurants such Eola—intimate, personal spaces with driven and visionary chefs—are the exception in the United States, not the norm. Komi and Obelisk in Washington DC also belong to this group of restaurants.

Daniel Singhofen

Daniel Singhofen came to Washington DC by way of Orlando, his hometown, where he cooked at a couple of well-regarded restaurants before turning in his apron to follow his fiancée, an employee of the World Bank, north in 2007.

He trained at the Culinary Institute of America and was the sous chef for Kevin Fonzo at K restaurant in College Park, before opening Eola. Eola is owned by him and his parents.

The Place

Eola is simple and pleasant. The first-floor dining room is a relatively narrow exposed-brick affair with a yellow back wall. The kitchen, seen through an open window, adds a low hum to the room. Bare wood tables, simple candles, a wood floor of some vintage and a wall of exposed brick make it a warm and friendly place.

Eola’s Menu

Eola’s menu changes nightly and offers 5 prix fixe options: the main menu with 3 options, a vegetarian option and one of offal offerings. Gunther and Christian went for the regular menu, while Annette picked the offal offerings.

As for the offal menu, Daniel Singhofen said he didn’t create his menu to shock his guests. Rather, he is demonstrating his respect for ingredients. “If we’re responsible for taking life, then we need to be responsible with what we do with that animal,” Daniel Singhofen said. “We try to use as much as we can, as often as we can, and not waste anything.”

More generally, Daniel Singhofen said that he works to create a symbiotic relationship between the chef and his purveyors, like David Ober of West Virginia’s Cedarbrook Farms, who provides Eola with all things swine.

Turning to the wines, we picked the US$ 45 wine menu and did not bother to check the excellent wine card.

Our Selections

The Chef’s Welcome, a selection of small plates

We started with 4 amuse bouche:

Potato Roesti


Arctic Char


Duck Rilette


Deviled Quail Eggs


Wine: Naveran Cava Brut 2010

First Course

Christian:

Coddled Amish Egg, spinach, leek, gaunciale bits, sunchoke puree, crab froth


Castellar Rose Cava


Gunther:

Corona Bean and Rosemary Stew, parmesan, turnip, rutabaga, salsify, spinach

Mueller-Catoir Riesling 2011

Annette:

Confit of Gizzard and Heart, grits, mushroom, baby carrots, apple

Solluna Priorat 2006

Second Course

Christian:

Saffron Risotto, mussels, clams, crab, parmesan


Columna Albarino 2011

Gunther:

Hand Cut Fettuccine, fennel sausage, ragout, chard, parmesan

Mauro Molino Nebbiolo, 2010

Annette: Fettuccine, cured pig liver, coddled egg


Mauro Molino Nebbiolo, 2010

Third Course

Christian:

Cobia, lentils, root vegetables, blood orange, parsley root cream


Lioco Chardonnay 2010

Gunther:

Shenandoah Beef Loin, potato, wilted greens, jus

Chateau La Chapelle 2009

Annette:

Pork Jowl Confit, lentils, kale, radish, carrot and mustard jus


Vincent Girardin Bourgogne 2009

Dessert

We all went for the same:

Meyer Lemon Pudding, ginger anglaise, candied citrus


Kracher Beerenauslese 2008

Cheese Plate

We skipped the Artisan Cheese plate for US$ 15

Cookie Plate

A cookie plate full of choices like a crunchy chocolate hazelnut biscotti, a duo of soft brownie cubes, a bittersweet chocolate chunk cookie and a pair of ginger infused molasses drops was a comforting swansong.

schiller-wine: Related Postings 

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux 

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013 

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA 

In the Kitchen: Chef Javier Romero at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA

Alejandro Luna Beberide from Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide in Spain at the Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain

With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Clemens Busch at Kloster Eberbach

For more, see:
Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany

Weingut Clemens Busch is one of the top producers in Germany. And not only that. In a region where the humidity and extremely steep vineyards make most wine makers to rely on some level of pesticide, Clemens Busch is 100% organic/biodynamic.

In a region where noticeable residual sugar in the finished wine and low alcohol is the calling card, Clemens Busch’s focus is on dry premium Rieslings that can compete with the best dry whites in the world. But Clemens Busch also produces off-dry wines as well as powerfully complex, nobly sweet wines.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, and Clemens Busch at Kloster Eberbach

Weingut Clemens Busch is in Pünderich in the Mosel Valley, rather far down stream. The Busch family lives near the banks of the Mosel in a restored half- timbered house built in 1663. Because flooding can occur here, the vaulted cellar, built in the 1970s, lies nearby, on higher ground, at Clemens’s parents’ home.

 Picture: Weingut Clemens Busch and Tasting Room

The business has been run by Rita and Clemens Busch since 1986, with son Florian joining the team in 2008. Clemens is the fifth generation winemaker at this estate.

Vineyard area: 10 hectares
Annual production: 55,000 bottles
The winery is since 2007 member of the VDP (Association of German VDP).

Organic/Biodynamic 

Clemens Busch is considered by many to be the master interpreter of the natural winemaking approach in Germany. Clemens Busch began using organic practices in 1984 and more recently moved towards biodynamic. Winemaking is practiced in accordance with the guidelines of the ECOVIN association.

Pündericher Marienburg 

Most of the area under vines is situated in the Pündericher Marienburg vineyard which covers almost the entire hillside on the opposite side of the river from the village of Pünderich.

Pictures: Pündericher Marienburg 

Until the wine law of 1971, the Pündericher Marienburg consisted of several small plots and not without good reason, because the wines grown in the different parts of today’s Marienburg vineyard are still very different. It is not only the different slate soils but also the special microclimates that play an important role here. To emphasize the specific differences that exist within the Pündericher Marienburg, the corresponding wines of Clemens Busch still bear the names of the old plots: Fahrlay and Fahrlay-Terrassen, Falkenlay and Raffes, as well as Rothenpfad and Felsterrasse.

Fahrlay and Fahrlay-Terrassen, directly across the river from the Busch’s house, consist mainly of blue slate, producing a Riesling with a particularly intensive mineral flavor and slightly salty notes in the finish.

Pictures: Clemens Busch

Falkenlay, including the old-vine section called Raffes, is made up of grey slate, producing particularly creamy, fruit-driven Rieslings.

Grey slate dominates in the original Pündericher Marienburg location and this is where the grapes for »Großes Gewächs Marienburg GG« are harvested among others.

Riesling grapes are grown on 95% of the area, along with Müller-Thurgau and Spätburgunder to a lesser extent.

Wine Cellar

In the cellar, it is obvious that Clemens Busch does without high technology. After crushing, the grapes undergo skin contact and ferment spontaneously in both stainless steel and in oak Fuder (wooden casks of 1000 liters), sometimes into the next year’s harvest. In addition to lees contact, Clemens Busch likes to do lees stirring to increase the wines’ fruitiness and richness.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, at Weingut Clemens Busch in Pünderich

As an exception, special yeast is used for noble-sweet wines where the sugar levels are sometimes so high that wild yeasts would not even begin to work. The wine ages in the oak fuder.

schiller-wine: Related Postings

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Impressions from the Riesling and Co World Tour 2010 in New York

The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, at the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Schiller’s Favorites from the VDP Grosses Gewaechs – Grand Cru – Presentation at Kloster Eberbach, 2012, Germany

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013

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Pictures: Annette Schiller, Clemens Busch, Christian G.E. Schiller and Helmuth Doennhoff

Led by Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller, a Wine and Culture Trip to Germany is coming up, August 22 - 30, 2013, organized by Annette Schiller (Ombiasy Wine Tours).

Pictures: The wine taverns Spitzhaeuschen in Bernkastel-Kues and Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz

See:
Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

For 9 days, we will explore seven out of the thirteen wine regions and several cultural highlights in Germany: the Saale-Unstrut wine region in the former GDR, Weimar, cradle of German intellectual thinking, the Wartburg where Martin Luther spend his years hiding from the Roman Catholic Church, the Rheingau with its pristine vineyards and quaint medieval villages, the Basilica in Kiedrich where still today Gregorian chants are sung, the romantic Rhine river and its castle-ribboned banks, world-renowned wineries in the Mosel valley with its dizzying steep vineyards, the beautiful, peaceful Nahe valley, the biggest wine barrel in the world, the upcoming young ambitious winemakers in Rheinhessen, the one thousand year old city of Mainz, one of the nine wine capitals of the world.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian G.E. Schiller, Ernst Loosen Bernhard Pawis

We will visit 14 wineries, taste fabulous wines, share wine pairing meals with the proprietors of top wine producing estates and will have fantastic meals at great restaurants and historical places.

Germany with its roughly 250,000 acres under vine belongs today to one of the smaller wine producing countries in the world. However viticulture in Germany has a long tradition going back to Roman times 2,000 years ago. In the 15th century the area under vine was four times larger than it is today. Wars, subsequently loss of territory, diseases, overproduction, and competition from beer brewing resulted in land turned over to other agricultural use.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in the Saale-Unstrut and Mosel Valleys

In the 19th century, technological progress fostered improvement of quality and the prestige of German wines, in particular from the Mosel, Rheingau, and Pfalz region resulted in prices above those for first growth Bordeaux wines. Today, all thirteen wine regions in Germany produce outstanding wines, with Rieslings and Pinot Noirs in the top league.

Join us for an unforgettable journey!

Fees

The price for this 9 day / 8 night trip is $ 2989 / per person, double occupancy. Single occupancy supplement is $ 430. Tour starts and ends in the city of Frankfurt am Main.

In Short

• 8 nights hotel accommodation: 7 nights in 4-star hotels, 1 night in a 3-star hotel.
• 8 breakfast buffets.
• Travel in the wine region by luxury air-conditioned motor coach.
• 7 lunches and dinners at excellent restaurants and historic places.
• 6 wine pairing lunches and dinners at various wine producing estates guided by the owners / winemakers.
• Visits of and tastings at 14 top wineries (10 belong to the VDP, Germany’s elite winemakers association).
• The opportunity to meet with many of the winery owners and winemakers.
• 2 guided city tours and sightseeing tours of spectacular historic and cultural sites.
• 1 cruise on the Rhine river.

Pictures: The 1000 years old Cathedral of Mainz in Rheinhessen and the Abbey of Eberbach in the Rheingau.

The Winemakers we will Visit

Saale-Unstrut

Weingut Pawis (VDP)
Rotkaeppchen-Mumm Sekt Kellerei
Thueringer Weingut Stadt Bad Sulza

Rheingau

Weingut Balthasar Ress (VDP)
Weingut Robert Weil (VDP)
Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn (VDP)
Weingut Breuer (ex-VDP)

Mosel

Weingut Clemens Busch (VDP)
Weingut Joh. Jos. Christopffel Erben (VDP) and Weingut Moenchof - Robert Eymael
Weingut Dr. Loosen (VDP)

Nahe

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf (VDP)
Weingut H. Doennhoff (VDP)

Pfalz

Weingut Fitz-Ritter (VDP)

Rheinhessen

Winzerhof Thoerle
Weingut Schaetzel

Small Group led by Annette and Christian Schiller

The group will not exceed a total of 22 participants. Wine journalist/blogger Christian Schiller and professional event manager Annette Schiller, both wine connoisseurs, experienced wine region travelers, and former residents of Germany will lead the group.

Detailed information is available at the Ombiasy Wine Tours website:

Ombiasy Wine Tours
www.winetours.ombiasypr.com

Germany 2013

Annette Schiller
Call: (703) 459 7513 or
Email: aschiller@ombiasypr.com

Ombiasy Wine Tours Germany Trip 2013 – Related Postings

German Wine
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

VDP
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Weingut Pawis (VDP)
Weingut Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany

Rotkaeppchen-Mumm Sekt Kellerei
Visiting Rotkaeppchen-Mumm - the Second Largest Producer of Sparkling Wine in the World - in Freyburg (Saale-Unstrut), Germany

Thueringer Weingut in Bad Sulza
Visiting Winemaker Andreas Clauss and his Thueringer Weingut in Bad Sulza, Saale Unstrut, Germany

Weingut Balthasar Ress (VDP)
Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Weingut Robert Weil (VDP)
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany

Weingut Clemens Busch (VDP)
With Wine Maker Clemens Busch in Puenderich at his Winery in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Weingut Dr. Loosen (VDP)
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf (VDP)
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Winzerhof Thoerle
The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany

Weingut Schaetzel
A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany



Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil. Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany and Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany and German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The Gault Millau WineGuide Deutschland 2013 includes 1080 winemakers of Germany, according to the American-borne Joel B. Payne and his team. This is really the crème de la crème.

The Gault Millau uses a scale of 1 to 5 Grapes. Here are those winemakers who got in the 2013 Gault Millau WineGuide Deutschland the maximum number of 5 grapes, grouped by wine region. This is a small group of 10 winemakers.

As for previous years, see:

Germany’s Top 10 Winemakers (with 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
Germany’s Top 9 Winemakers - the 2010 Gault Millau Wine Guide

Each year, the Gault Millau also selects a winemaker of the year, a discovery of the year, etc. I have already report about these awards:

Best German Wines and Wine Makers – the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 Awards
2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
2011: Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany 2011– Ratings
Gault Millau Wine Germany 2010

Ahr

None.

Baden

Bernhard Huber

One of the winemakers leading the German red wine revolution. He also produces outstanding white wines. Does not have any sweet or noble-sweet wines in his portfolio. 26.5 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller, Barbara Huber and Peter Lepholt. I visited and wrote about Weingut Huber One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Franken

None.

Hessische Bergstrasse

None.

Mittelrhein

None.

Mosel (Mosel - Saar -Ruwer)

Fritz Haag

Fritz’s son Oliver Haag produces a broad range of styles, from dry to lusciously noble sweet wines. 15 hectares.

Egon Mueller

The legendary Scharzhof lies on the Saar river. Egon Mueller’s fruity sweet and noble sweet, low alcohol wines are a legend. 16 hectares.

Picture: Egon Mueller at the 1. International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau in Germany: 1st International Riesling Symposium, Rheingau, Germany

Joh. Jos. Pruem

For decades now, one of the really exceptional wine makers in Germany. The aging potential of the Weingut J.J. Pruem wines is legendary. 21 hectares.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Manfred Pruem, Weingut JJ Pruem. I met Manfred's daughter Katharina Pruem in Washington DC recently and wrote about Weingut JJ Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Nahe

Herrmann Doennhoff

Owner and winemaker Helmut Doennhoff is a Grand Seigneur of German wine. 25 hectares.


Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Helmut Doennhoff, Weingut Hermann Doennhoff, Winner of the 2011 Feinschmecker Riesling Cup

Emrich-Schoenleber

Werner Schoenleber was Gault Millau winemaker of the year 2006. Only white wines, mainly Riesling. 16 hectares.

Pfalz

Knipser

A world class producer of both dry white and red wines. Werner Knipser has been experimenting with international red grape varieties for some years. Virtually all wines are fermented in a dry style. 40 hectares.

Oekonomierat Rebholz

A broad wine portfolio with international grapes, including Chardonnay and 25%  Spaetburgunder. 19 hectares.

Rheingau

Robert Weil

A top producer of Riesling wines, in particular fruity sweet and noble sweet wines, which is well presented in the major wine markets in the world. By far the largest winery among the Feinschmecker top wine makers and one of the largest wineries in Germany. Owned by the Japanese Suntory company and Wilhelm Weil, the fourth generation of the founding family. 80 hectares.

Rheinhessen

Keller

Leader of the Rheinhessen wine renaissance. Has a broad wine portfolio with 60 % accounted for by Riesling and also including the lesser known autochthon Silvaner as well as Spaetburgunder. 15 hectares.

Saale-Unstrut

None.

Sachsen

None.

Wuerttemberg

None.

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Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

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The Heidsieck Champagnes – French Champagne Houses with German Roots

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Picture: Heidsieck et Cie Monopol

I recently published a posting about French Champagne Houses with German roots, i.e. Champagne producers that were founded by Germans. Carolyne Henry pointed out to me that one name that was definitely missing was Heidsick Champagne.

See more:
French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Heidsieck & Co

Florens-Louis Heidsieck (1749–1828) was the founder of the Champagne House Heidsieck & Co in 1785. Florens-Louis Heidsieck died in 1828 and the Champagne House Heidsieck & Co was dissolved in 1834. Over the following 20 years, however, three separate Champagne Houses took on the name of Heidsieck, all linked to Florens-Louis Heidsieck by various nephews. Today, they are known as Piper-Heidsieck, Heidsieck et Cie Monopole and Charles Heidsieck.

Florens-Louis was the son of a Lutheran minister from Borgholzhausen in Westphalia in Germany. Shortly after he moved to Reims, he married the daughter of the wealthy cloth merchant Nicolas Perthois. On July 16, 1785, Florens-Louis Heidsieck founded the Champagne House, Heidsieck & Co.

Initially, Florens-Louis Heidsick worked with his son, who, however, unexpectedly died at young age. Subsequently, 3 of Florens-Louis’ nephews – who were still in Germany - joined the company as partners:  Henry-Louis Walbaum-Heidsick and Pierre Auguste Delius Heidsieck in 1814 and Christian Heidsieck in 1820 as well as Henri-Guillaume Piper, a great nephew of Florens-Louis, in 1815. In addition, other family members and friends from Germany joined the company.

When Florens-Louis Heidsieck died in 1828, Ferdinand Walbaum, the son of Henry-Louis Walbaum-Heidsieck took over “comme légataire unique et universel”, as was the will of Florens-Louis Heidsieck. Christian Heidsieck managed Heidsieck & Co, while Henri-Guillaume Piper handled sales. Eventually, Heidsieck & Co was dissolved in 1834.

Piper-Heidsick

In 1834, following the dissolution of Heidsieck & Co, Christian Heidsieck created a new company, keeping the Heidsieck name. His staff comprised 3 employees, including Henri-Guillaume Piper and Henri-Guillaume Piper’s cousin Jacques-Charles Kunkelmann.

At Christian Heidsieck’s death in 1837, his widow continued to run the house for some time under the name Veuve Heidsieck. She then married Henri-Guillaume Piper and the House became H. Piper et Cie, but continued to sell champagne under the name of Heidsieck, and then Piper-Heidsieck in 1845.

Since 1990, Piper-Heidsieck has been part of the Rémy Cointreau wine and spirits group, which belongs to the Groupe Européenne de Participation Industrielle (EPI), a holding of the Descours family.

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck
Turnover 2010 :    104 millions €
Vineyard: 65 ha
Staff : 126

Heidsieck et Cie Monopole

The other 2 partners (and also nephews) of Florens-Louis Heidsick, Henry-Louis Walbaum-Heidsick and Pierre Auguste Delius-Heidsieck,  founded the house of Walbaum, Heidsieck et Cie in 1834 which, after several changes of name, became Heidsieck et Cie Monopole in 1923.

The "Monopole" part of the name was added in 1923. Today, Heidsieck is owned by the Vranken company (located in Épernay), which also has Pommery in the portfolio.

Champagne Heidsieck & C° Monopole
Group: Vranken-Pommery Monopole
Turnover 2011 : 340 millions €
Vineyard: 275 ha

Charles Heidsick 

Finally, in 1851 Charles-Camille Heidsieck founded the house of Charles Heidsieck. Charles-Camille Heidsieck was the son of Charles-Henri Heidsieck, who was a nephew of Florens-Louis Heidsick and who had worked with Florens-Louis Heidsieck.

Charles-Henri Heidsieck worked for his uncle’s Champagne House Heidsieck & Cie between 1805 and 1818. He became famous for riding into Moscow on a white stallion in 1811 just ahead of Napoleon's advancing army. Charles-Henri Heidsieck arrived with cases of his champagne and his order book, ready to celebrate with whichever side would win the upcoming battle. In 1818, he married Émilie Henriot Godinot and took over the textile company of his father-in-law.

Charles-Camille Heidsieck worked for a number of years at Piper-Heidsick, before leaving the company and founding Charles Heidsick in 1851, together with Ernest Henriot.

Charles-Camille Heidsieck is credited with popularizing champagne in the United States and became known as "Champagne Charlie" in the United States. During the American Civil War Charles-Camille Heidsieck was imprisoned under suspicion of being a spy for the French government and the Confederacy. His imprisonment sparked an international incident between France and US.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck
Founded in: 1851
Turnover 2010 : 104 millions €
Vineyard 65 ha

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Mainlust “Desche Otto” – an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with "die Claudia und de Louie" - Claudia Olschowski and Louie Hoelzinger, Partners in Life and Business

I grew up with apple wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Although there are 3 beer breweries in Frankfurt and the world renowned Rheingau and Rheinhessen wine regions just 30 minutes away from Frankfurt by S-Bahn or car, Frankfurt am Main is a city of cider.

For Schiller's Favorites, see:
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Frankfurt has a large number of traditional apple wine taverns, where you sit on communal benches, eat hearty local food and drink sour and tart German apple wine. Typically, there is only one apple wine – the house apple wine – available, in some cases made on the premises.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at the Bar

The apple wine tavern (Apfelweinwirtschaft) is as distinctive a Frankfurt institution as the Bierkeller is of Munich or the Weinstube of Mainz. Many of the best-known establishments are concentrated in Sachsenhausen, but others are dotted all over the city. They are strongly traditional. They offer hearty local cuisine, usually at moderate prices.

Overall, the various apple wine taverns do not differ that much one from another. However, while most of the apple wine taverns pour an apple wine bought from an apple wine producer, there are a few taverns that still make the apple wine they serve on the premises. Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt Sachsenhausen is one of the apple wine taverns in Frankfurt, where the apple wine you drink is also produced on the premises. Then there are some apple wine taverns, where you meet more tourists and foreigners. These are very good apple wine taverns, which try to be open-minded to foreigners and tourists, while preserving the traditions of a typical apple wine tavern. A prime example is Adolf Wagner in the Schweizer Strasse in Sachsenhausen. Others are less accommodative to foreigners and more rigid in terms of how the place is being run. A prime example is Zu den 3 Steubern, also in Sachsenhausen. Louie likes to stop there for a "Schoppe" on his way home or to Schwanheim.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Louie and the Chef

Zur Mainlust “Desche Otto”

Mainlust "Desche-Otto" is a small and cosy apple wine tavern with a lovely garden, run by Claudia and Louie - in walking distance from where I live in Frankfurt am Main. Claudia and Louie's motto is "hard-core Hessian". They strive for the "not so usual", with delicious local fare with a modern touch, over 100 brandies (Louie's passion) and a  concert series during the summer months. In addition to the regular "Haus Schoppen" they have a second, special "Haus Schoppen" that changes when the barrel is drunk up.

The Place

Zur Mainlust “Desche Otto” is a traditional apple wine tavern, with an innovative twist. For many years, it was run and owned by Otto Desch, hence the name. It opened in 1890.

Pictures: "Schankraum"

Zur Mainlust “Desche Otto” is off the beaten track and thus belongs to the category of apple wine taverns in Frankfurt, where the share of tourists and foreigners is very low. Your rarely meet non-Frankfurters in this very charming apple wine tavern.

Picture: Garden Restaurant

In the “Schankstube” (Barroom) there are 7 tables for 8 to 10 people. On the wall, there is a picture of Chancellor Bismarck, which probably has been hanging there since the days when Bismarck was Chancellor. In addition, there is a nice and cosy garden restaurant, which is open during the summer months until 10 p.m. And then there is the “Tresen” (Bar) where people sit on barstools.

The Food

The food is typical apple wine tavern food, with the standards such as Rippchen mit Sauerkraut (grilled pork, sauerkraut and bread) and Handkäs mit Musik - a Frankfurt cheese specialty with “Musik” (oil, vinegar and onions).

There is no English version of the menu – only very few apple wine taverns have an English version of their menu. In fact, there is not even a menu in German! The menu is in “Hessisch” – the local dialect, suggesting to the guests what Louie and Claudia have in mind – back to the local roots.

Deckelcher - Frankfurt Tapas

A house specialty is the Deckelcher - Louie invented them. When you sit outside in the garden restaurant, people sometimes bring little wooden lids for the apple wine glasses to prevent leaves from falling into the glass.

Louie’s Deckelcher has the size of a lid and is something to eat - small sandwiches of the apple wine glass lid size, made from apple wine bread, with butter plus some sausage, pate or cheese:

Deckelchen with Hausmacher Wurst, Mettwurst, Presskopf, Leberwurst, Blutwurst Euro 1,40
Deckelchen with Schmalz Euro 1,20
Deckelchen with Solber, Senf und Gürkchen Euro 1,50
Deckelchen with rohem Schinken Euro 1,50
Deckelchen with Handkäs Euro 1,40

The Apple Wine

Louie and Claudia serve 2 house apple wines. One is always the same, the other one changes regularly, when the barrel is drunk up.

Schnaps (Brandies)

Louie likes Schnaps very much and has assembled an amazing selection of different Schnaps. You can choose from over 100 different brandies. I have seen that many guests like to finish the evening with one – or two or even more – of the Schnaps Louie has to offer.

Picture: Schnaps Selection at Mainlust "Desche Otto"

Music

From time to time, the place rocks and rolls. Claudia and Louie like music and have a concert series there.The program for the first months of 2013 was just put on the web.

Apple Wine Tram Trip

Last year, Claudia and Louie organized an apple wine tram trip, which reportedly was a lot of fun. They leased an old tram, loaded it with apple wine and food and drove around in the Frankfurt city for an afternoon, including a stop at the apple wine tavern Buchscheer.The next trip is planned for end May 2013. Also, a similar trip on a Main Ferry Boat is in the planning.

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The 50 Largest Winemakers in Germany

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Ulrich Allendorf at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel. Fore more, see: Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

Reknowned German wine journalist Mario Scheuermann has updated his list of the 50 largest “Weingueter” in Germany. See here: Die 50 grössten Weingüter Deutschlands 2012 http://weinreporter.net/drinktank/2012/11/27/die-50-grossten-weinguter-deutschlands-2012/ for Mario Scheuermann's article (in German).

For more information on the size and the structure of the German wine industry, see:
The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry

The 50 Largest Winemakers in Germany

Mario Scheuermann’s list only includes winemakers that do the full cycle: vine-growing, wine-making, aging and bottling, that is: wine makers that grow their own grapes and bottle their wine. The criterion he uses is the vineyard size. An alternative criterion could be the number of cases produced. Obviously, the list does not include negociant-type of winemakers. Nor does it include grape growers who sell their output as grapes or winemakers who do not bottle their wine but sell the fermented wine in bulk. Finally, the list does not include wine-cooperatives. Excluding wine-cooperatives, there are only 10 wineries in Germany with more than 100 hectares of land.

1 hectare equals 2.4 acres.

The numbers in parenthesis are those of the 2010 ranking.

01 (01)

Hessische Staatsweingüter, Eltville (Rheingau/Bergstrasse)

Rebfläche: 247 ha (207 ha)

Pictures: Eberbach Abbey and Steinbergkeller

See:
Steinberger Riesling 1893 from Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Germany to San Francisco in California, USA
In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany

02 (02)

Juliusspital, Würzburg (Franken)

Rebfläche : 172 ha (170 ha)

03 (03)

Weingut Heinz Pfaffmann, Walsheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 150 ha (150 ha)

04 (04)

Weingüter Markgraf von Baden, Salem (Baden)

Rebfläche: 145 ha (140 ha)

Picture: Schloss Salem

See:
Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

05 (06)

Staatlicher Hofkeller, Würzburg (Franken)

Rebfläche: 120 ha (120 ha)

06 (05)

Bischöfliche Weingüter, Trier (Mosel)

Rebfläche: 120 ha (130 ha)

07 (10)

Weingut Friedrich Kiefer, Eichstetten am Kaiserstuhl (Baden)

Rebfläche : 120 ha (110 ha)

08 (07)

Weingut Anselmann, Edesheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche : 118 ha (115 ha)

09 (09)

Weingut Lergenmüller, Hainfeld (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 110 ha (110 ha)

10 (12)

Heinrich Vollmer, Ellerstadt (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 105 ha (90 ha)

11 (11)

Sächsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth, Radebeul (Sachsen),

Rebfläche: 104 ha (94 ha)

12 (08)

Bürgerspital z. Hl. Geist, Würzburg (Franken)

Rebfläche: 103 ha (110 ha)

13 (21)

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Zadel über Meissen (Sachsen)

Rebfläche: 88 ha (67 ha)

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz

14 (13)

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf , Wachenheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: : 86 ha (86 ha)

15 (–)

Weingut Heitlinger, Oestringen-Tiefenbach (Baden)

Rebfläche: 85 ha

16 (16)

Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich (Rheingau)

Rebfläche: 85 ha (75 ha)

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil in Kiedrich

For more:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
17 (14)

Weingüter Graf von Schönborn, Wiesentheit/Hallgarten (Rheingau/Franken)

Rebfläche 82 (85,1 ha)

18 (24)

Weingut Schloss Vollrads, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau)

Rebfläche: 80 ha (63,5 ha)

19 (16)

Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen, Eltville-Erbach (Rheingau)

Rebfläche: 76 ha (78 ha)

Christian G.E. Schiller and the former General Manager of Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen, Dr. Karl-Heinz Zerbe

See:
Rhine Wine – The Weingut Schloss Rheinhartshausen Wines of the Mariannenaue Island in the Rhine River, Germany

20 (15)

Weingut Hans Wirsching, Iphofen (Franken)

Rebfläche: 75 ha (81 ha)

21 (38)

Herrengut St. Martin, St. Martin, St. Martin (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 71 ha (49,7ha)

22 (19)

Fürstlich Castell´sches Domänenamt, Castell (Franken)

Rebfläche: 70 ha (70 ha)

23 (–)

Weingut Bimmerle, Renchen (Baden)

Rebfläche: 70 ha (45 ha)

24 (20)

Weingut Julius Zotz, Heitersheim (Baden)

Rebfläche: 70 ha (69,8 ha)

25 (22)

Weingut G. H. von Mumm, Geisenheim-Johannisberg (Rheingau)

Rebfläche : 65 ha (65 ha)

26 (23)

Weingut Fritz Allendorf, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau)

Rebfläche: 63 ha (64 ha)

Picture: Ulrich Allendorf at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel

See:
Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

27 (25)

Staatsweingut Meersburg, Meersburg (Baden)

Rebfläche: 63 ha (63 ha)

Picture: Staatsweingut Meersburg

See: 
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany

28 (26)

Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 62 ha (62 ha)

Picture: Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl

See:
Winemaker Dinner at Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz, Germany

29 (27)

Weingüter Wegeler, Oestrich-Winkel, Bernkastel, Assmannshausen (Rheingau, Mosel)

Rebfläche: 62 ha (60 ha)

30 (32)

Weingut Karl Pfaffmann, Walsheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 60 ha (51 ha)

31 (28)

Weingut Schales, Flörsheim-Dalsheim (Rheinhessen)

Rebfläche: 60 ha (60 ha)

32 (34)

Weingut Schneider, Ellerstadt (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 60 ha (50 ha)

33 (30)

Weingut Franz Keller/Schwarzer Adler, Vogtsburg-Oberbergen(Baden)

Rebfläche: 57 ha (55 ha)

34 (29)

Weingut Knöll & Vogel, Bad Bergzabern (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 56 ha (56 ha)

35 (31)

Landesweingut Kloster Pforta, Bad Kösen (Saale-Unstrut) Rebfläche: 53,5 ha (55 ha)

36 (47)

Weingut Knipser, Laumersheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 53 ha (41 ha)

37 (17)

Weingut Fritz Walter, Niederhorbach (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 52 ha (76 ha)

38 (40)

Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 50 (48 ha)

39 (35)

Weingut Keth, Offstein (Rheinhessen)

Rebfläche: 50 ha (50 ha)

40 (36)

Weingut und – kellerei Karl Karle, Ihringen (Baden)

Rebfläche: 48 ha (50 ha)

41 (33)

Weingut Hammel, Kirchheim, (Pfalz):

Rebfläche: 47,5 ha (50,5 ha)

42 (42)

Weingut Georg Apfelbacher, Dettelbach (Franken)

Rebfläche: 46 ha (46 ha)

43 (50)

Weingut von Winning, Deidesheium (Pfalz)

Rebfläche: 46 ha (40 ha)

44 (41)

Weingut Schloss Ortenberg, Ortenberg (Baden)

Rebfläche: 45 ha (46 ha)

45 (43)

Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim (Rheingau)

Rebfläche: 45 ha (44,7 ha)

Picture: Weingut Balthasar Ress

See:
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46 (39)

Weingut Albert Kallfelz, Zell-Merl (Mosel)

Rebfläche: 45 ha (48,3 ha)

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Weingut Van Volxem, Wiltingen (Saar)

Rebfläche: 45 ha (42 ha)

48 (50)

Thüringer Weingut Bad Sulza, Bad Sulza (Saale-Unstrut)

Rebfläche: 43 ha (40 ha)

Picture: Thüringer Weingut Bad Sulza

See:
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49 (48)

Weingut Herzog von Württemberg, Ludwigsburg (Württemberg)

Rebfläche: 42,6 ha (40, 6 ha)

50 (49 / –)

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Rebfläche: 42 (40,5 ha)

Weingut Sonnenhof, Vaihingen-Enz (Württemberg)

Rebfläche. 42 ha (38 ha)

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The Iron Chevsky Wine Blog Recommends “Christian Schiller’s Most Informative Blog” in his Posting “Gruner Veltliner for Christmas?”

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Picture: Gary Chevsky

This is a re-release of a posting by Gary Chevsky of the Iron Chevsky Wine Blog, in which he recommends “Christian Schiller's most informative blog”. This is about Austrian wines.
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Gruner Veltliner for Christmas?

Best darn rack of pork I've ever had, courtesy of Fima.

On the first day of Christmas... I was going to serve Champagne with dinner. Gruner Veltliner was supposed to be a pre-dinner curiosity drink. But when my mom and I gave the 2008 Forstreiter Gruner Veltliner Schiefer Reserve from Kremstal DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) a sip, I thought I heard jingle bells. At just under $20 (at WineChateau.com), this wine delivered outstanding QPR this holiday season.

Champagne? What Champagne! The bottle of Gruner lasted us all through the meal. It worked with both the salad (of Romaine lettuce, Brussels sprouts, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, and home-made Caesar style dressing with anchovies, mustard, and olive oil) and with an incredible rack of pork that my step-dad Fima roasted to moist, juicy, savory, sweet perfection!

Gruner Veltliner (or "grooner" or "gru-vee") is the wine grape of Austria. If you think Zweigelt, Zierfandler, and Rotgipfler are too obscure for you, you might actually recognize Gruner. It's a sort of Austria's answer to German Riesling. Austrians make world-class Riesling too, but that's minority of their production.

Gruner Veltiners have great minerality. Completely dry, crisp and clean, without sugar or oak masking anything, the crushed stones in the Austrian wine feel alive, almost like drinking electron-infused mineral water. That, combined with tangy citrus peel, hints of apples and peaches woven into inexplicable complexity with razor-focused acidity makes Gruner a versatile and impressive white wine.

Why would anyone outside of Austria drink Gruner Veltliner? Well, as someone who drinks a lot of wine from around the world, and especially Old World, after dipping into a couple of Gruners over this past weekend, I am a fan. In fact, I would put them into the same league of nobility as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. To learn more about the ins and outs of Austrian wines, I recommend Christian Schiller's most informative blog and the official Austrian Wine website.

As much as I like the whites of Italy, especially Friuli, Veneto, and Campania, I have to say - from my recent experiences with Austrian wines, they are starting to earn a spot in my virtual white wine hierarchy alongside Germany, just below France.

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

http://www.chevsky.com/2010/12/gruner-veltliner-for-christmas.html
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Specifically, the Iron Chevsky recommends:

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
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About Gary Chevsky

“If this blog doesn't enhance your wine life, if it doesn't make you hungry and thirsty, then I've failed. I write not about wine, but about life made better by wine. A meal without wine is lost opportunity. I am "Iron Chevsky", WSET-certified wine aficionado and software industry executive. Back in the early days of the internet, I was the founding member of the team Ask Jeeves. These days I still make my money in tech, and spend my money in wine. Thank goodness, Silicon Valley is good for both.”

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Richmond Times-Dispatch, Virginia (USA): Vines & Wines: State wine considered American champagne

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Picture: Richmond Times-Dispatch

An article by Jack Berninger in the Richmond Times-Dispatch, Virginia (USA) referring to and quoting “noted wine blogger Christian Schiller”.
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A Virginia sparkling wine is lighting up the state, even the East Coast of the United States.

The sparkler, Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay Brut, is a 100 percent chardonnay that should be a must-try for all.

Noted wine blogger Christian Schiller loved the Blanc de Chardonnay so much, he said it "is arguably the best sparkler produced in the U.S. East Coast and is as close as you get to (French) champagne outside of France (in terms of quality)."

High praise for a Virginia wine, indeed, but deserved recognition for this dry, nicely balanced sparkler that has aromas and tastes of apple and pear, and has an elegant, crisp mouth feel.

"I wholeheartedly concur that this is the best sparkling wine on the East Coast," said Matthew Perkins, wine buyer for Whole Foods Market in Short Pump, where the Blanc de Chardonnay is available for purchase ($27.99). Other stores and shops can special order.

"In fact, I describe it as one of the best sparkling wines made in the United States. I am drawn to the tiny champagne-style bubble structure, which lends to the delicate, elegant nature of the wine.

"I also love that it is very dry. Today's market is flooded with prosecco and many other sparkling wines with just enough residual sugar to attract a broad customer base. Unfortunately, this extra bit of sugar adds heaviness to the wine, which I find detracts from the overall experience. TJ has stayed true to style and has that lovely crisp, dry, delicate body. Thibaut-Janisson is the sparkling wine I reach for for any celebration."

One celebration where this sparkler was served was President Barack Obama's first state dinner in 2009.

Claude Thibaut is the man behind the Blanc de Chardonnay.

A native of France's Champagne region, Thibaut has been in the sparkling wine business for more than 25 years, and he's TJ's winemaker. He and his partner, Manuel Janisson of Champagne Janisson & Fils, have been producing this sparkler since 2005 (2007 was the first release) at the Afton-based winery.

Methode champenoise — double fermentation in the bottle — is used to produce the Blanc de Chardonnay.

"It's very complex; it doesn't allow for mistakes," he said of methode champenoise. "I have the right equipment. I have a pretty good idea what to do. I guess I have an advantage."

Posted: Sunday, December 18, 2011 12:00 am | Updated: 9:49 am, Mon Dec 31, 2012.

Jack Berninger

http://www.timesdispatch.com/entertainment-life/vines-wines-state-wine-considered-american-champagne/article_8574eb3b-b552-5f52-8501-5dc8dbbade1c.html
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The referenced article is: As Close as You Can Get to Champagne – Claude Thibaut and His Virginia Thibaut Janisson Sparklers at screwtop Wine Bar, USA

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An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with  François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf  -  A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

Tertre Rôtebeouf is one of the finest châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Yet, it is not classified. And, it is not part of the spring hype when the en primeur releases take place. That is so, because François Mitjavile is far away from St. Emilion mainstream. He does not bother to be included in the prestigious Saint-Emilion classification and he does not sell his wines en primeur through the Place de Bordeaux.

Pictures: Tertre Rôtebeouf

20 years ago, Tertre Rôtebeouf was unknown. But since then, Tertre Rôtebeouf has become a cult wine producer in St. Emilion and the price of Tertre Rôtebeouf has gone up significantly.

This has been spearheaded by a unique individual, François Mitjavile, helped by his wife Miloute, his son Louis and daughter Nina.

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History

The origins of  Tertre Rôtebeouf  lie with a vineyard named Le Tertre that was owned by François Mitjavile's late father-in-law. After he passed away in 1961, the property was inherited by his daughter Miloute. She leased it to her cousins, who owned Chateau Bellefond-Belcier.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, at Tertre Rôtebeouf in early 2012. See also: Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

Meanwhile, François Mitjavile was working at his family's successful haulage business. He decided to change course in life and try his hand at winemaking.

Between 1975 and 1977, he went through the school of Chateau Figeac. When he returned to Le Tertre after the 2 year apprenticeship, he suffixed Rôtebeouf (its literal translation is the unsavory "hill of the belching beef").

1978 was the first vintage that François Mitjavile made entirely by himself. His breakthrough on the wine scene was with the 1985-vintage. Since 1994-vintage, he removed the word “Châteaux” from the label at his wines.

Tertre Rôtebeouf

Tertre Rôtebeouf  looks a bit garagiste - a small estate with a vigneron house build in the 18th century lovingly tended by Miloute and François Mitjavile, two kilometers south-east of the village of Saint-Emilion, not far from Chateau Troplong Mondot and Chateau Larcis Ducasse.

Pictures: Presentation in the Backyard

The limestone based vineyards of Tertre Rôtebeouf (5.7 ha) are planted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The Merlot-vines are on average 45 years old, while Cabernet Franc ones are 5 years older.

François Mitjavile's winemaking approach: He picks the grapes as late as possible and maintains low yields. The wine stays on the skins for a long time and is aged in 100% new oak barrels for 18 to 24 months. The very late harvest combined with long alcoholic fermentation and extraction at 35°C results in a voluptuous, full-bodied, and very complex wine. Super-ripe Merlot is the key.

The estate does not produce a second wine.

Pictures: François Mitjavile

When François Mitjavile took over, he was considered as an odd person with strange ideas.Today, he is acknowledged and respected by the majority of château-owners in Bordeaux.

But François Mitjavile is very much his own man. He has never applied to be a Grand Cru Classé. Nor does he sell his wines through the Place de Bordeaux.

Estate Walk and Barrel Tasting

In September 2012, one of the highlights of the Bordeaux tour of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, was an estate walk and barrel tasting with François Mitjavile . We met a very articulate and eloquent wine maker, a very cultivated person and a passionate communicator, who likes to illustrate what he wants to say about his wine with parallels from music, art and philosophy.

Pictures: The Vineyards

All the time during his presentation in his backyard, he walked back and forth, barefooted. I was told that Francois Mitjavile actually walks in the vineyard during the night, with his hands on his back, talking lovingly to the vines and I believe it.

Pictures: Tasting in the Cellar

Tertre Rôtebeouf Wines at Le Bouchon Restaurant in Saint Emilion

Following the visit at Tertre Rôtebeouf, we had dinner at Le Bouchon at the main square in Saint Emilion. Le Bouchon carries an amazing selection of Tertre Rôtebeouf wines, from the 1980s to the most recent vintage.

Picture: Different Vintages of Terte Rôtebeouf (in Euro)

Wine Searcher Average Prices

2011 US$163
2010 US$209
2009 US$248
2008 US$182
2007 US$174
2006 US$193
2005 US$365
2000 US$395

Roc des Cambes in Cotes de Bourg

Roc de Cambes is a Côtes de Bourg estate and one of the finest producer in the appellation today. François Mitjavile bought it in 1988 by.

There are 12 hectares of vines, planted with 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. The soil here is a blend of chalk and clay. Vines are on average 50 years old.

The grapes are harvested as late as possible, and are then vinified in temperature controlled cement vats. The wines are massive and dense, spending two years in 100 per cent new oak.

When Francois Mitjavile bought Roc de Cambes, it was in quite bad shape. He put renovation and modernizing in full swing immediately. In just a few years, he Roc de Cambes one of the top-wines of  Côtes de Bourg.

The second wine labeled as Domaine de Combes comes under the basic Bordeaux appellation.
l’Aurage

The Mitjavile family owns another Bordeaux property located in Cotes de Castillon. Louis Mitjavile is completely in charge.

Wine Searcher Average Prices 

2011 US$ 58
2010 US$ 66
2009 US$ 73
2005 US$101
2000 US$ 71

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