Picture: Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère in Savigny-lès-Beaune, Bourgogne, and Christian Schiller at Woodward Table in Washington DC

Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère in Savigny-lès-Beaune, the former American political journalist who became a famous Bourgogne winemaker, was in town (Washington DC) and I had the opportunity to taste his ultra-premium Bourgogne wines at Woodward Table in downtown with him, organized by Schneider's of Capitol Hill.

The wines were spectacular and brought back memories of the visit in 2016, when we spent a couple of hours with Blair during the Burgundy and Champagne 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See here for the whole tour: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Picture: Winemaker Dinner with Blair Pethel at Woodward Table in Washington DC

Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune

Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune is owned by native North Carolina and longtime resident of Washington DC Blair Pethel. For 25 years he worked in Washington DC as political journalist. In 2003 he gave in to his inner callings and followed his love – Burgundy wines – to Beaune. He interned with top Burgundian winegrowers and winemakers to learn everything possible about the unique terroir and winemaking process. He eventually established his own domaine and was able to purchase parcels in top vineyard sites in the Côte de Beaune and in the Côte de Nuits, and in addition he purchases fruit from a handful of superb growers across the Côte D’Or. I quote Allen Meadows (Burghound.com Issue 42, 2011): “Pethel clearly has a gifted touch because the wines are almost too good to have been made by someone with so little practical experience (he employs no consultants).

Menu


Reception


A selection of Chef’s hors d’oeuvres


2013 Domaine Dublere Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses


First Course

Maryland Jumbo Lump Crabcake apple kohlrabi slaw, chardonnay butter sauce


2013 Domaine Dublere Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Terres Blanches Blanc
2013 Domaine Dublere Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
2013 Domaine Dublere Chablis Valmur Grand Cru


Entree

Grilled filet mignon with roasted wild mushrooms, smash fried potato
Served with cauliflower gratin


2014 Domaine Dublere Savigny-les-Beaune Village Les Planchots du Nord
2013 Domaine Dublere Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards
2013 Domaine Dublere Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
2012 Domaine Dublere Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Aux Bousselots


Three Cheese Course


Visiting Blair Pethel at Domaine Dublère in Savigny-lès-Beaune

In 2016, we spent several hours with Blair during the Burgundy and Champagne 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours. See here for the visit: An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Pictures: An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lou Marmon: An American Winemaker in Burgundy Feels the Squeeze in Economic Downturn

By Lou Marmon
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Blair Pethel, who moved from Potomac to France in 2003, learned to speak French and endured hostility toward Americans in his efforts to become a Burgundian winemaker. His Domaine Dublere has received critical acclaim.

These are tough times to be a winemaker. Consumers are buying but overall sales are down, and the demand for the higher-priced wines has nearly evaporated. The larger producers are better positioned to withstand the economic downturn, but even the giant wine conglomerates are laying off employees. For smaller producers who make limited amounts of the world's finest wines, these conditions are potentially disastrous.

Pictures: Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère in Savigny-lès-Beaune at Woodward Table in Washington DC

This is not what Blair Pethel bargained for when he uprooted his wife and two young sons from Washington in 2003 to fulfill his dreams in the Burgundian vineyards. Making wine is a perilous, capital-intensive enterprise completely at the mercy of capricious weather, global economic upheavals and unpredictable consumer preferences. It is especially difficult for an American within the heavily regulated French wine industry, with its layers of bureaucracy and inherent prejudices against outsiders.

There are nearly 4,300 producers in Burgundy, and these "domaines" are mostly small, family-run affairs. The region's emphasis on quality and the rural lifestyle are among the factors that prompted Pethel to give up his career and a house in Potomac to move his family to France and become a winemaker, even though he didn't speak French at the time.

The financial environment has hit Pethel hard. The Burgundy Wine Board reported that exports, a mainstay of the region's economy, were down by nearly 30 percent in the last quarter of 2008. Almost the entire decline is attributed to decreased demand in the United States and the United Kingdom, two of Pethel's primary markets. Combined with a less than stellar 2007 growing season in Burgundy and despite critical acclaim for his Domaine Dublere wines, the current release is selling at a snail's pace.

"I am really struggling," he said recently. "I easily sold out all of my wines in '04, '05 and '06. But with the downturn the '07s are not selling well. Cash flow is killing me. My livelihood and that of my family are being threatened." He has the capacity to produce about 30,000 bottles annually; he filled 22,000 bottles in '07.

Three domaines are owned by Americans; Pethel is the only one who personally handles every aspect of his. Tall, trim, with silver-flecked brown hair and a wide smile, the 52-year-old is charmingly articulate. Growing up in North Carolina did not give him much exposure to wine. He pursued an acting career during college but ultimately returned home, eventually landing a position at the Greensboro News & Record and completing his journalism degree. A scholarship led to piano study and a doctorate at the Peabody Institute. He mastered polo because he got a job at the Polo Magazine. He declined a career in music or polo and returned to the News & Record. He tried out for the TV game show "Jeopardy!," which he won twice.

Pictures: Blair Pethel of Domaine Dublère in Savigny-lès-Beaune at Woodward Table in Washington DC

In 1987, Pethel followed his girlfriend to England. Three weeks later, they split up and Pethel found himself in London "with nothing, knowing no one and no prospects." He decided that "since I was in Europe, I'd try to learn about wine." After tasting some Burgundies, he started to routinely visit the region and brought back prodigious amounts of wine stashed in every conceivable crevice of his car.

He met his future wife, Fran, at a London ballet; the new couple vacationed frequently in Burgundy. They moved to Washington during the Clinton years, when Pethel worked for Knight Ridder as an economic correspondent. A timely inheritance allowed them to buy a home in Potomac. Both of their sons were born in Maryland, and the family became submerged in a life of carpools and school activities.

Despite their suburban success, or perhaps because of it, Fran and Blair continued to strive to return to France. "We suffered terrific culture shock on coming back to the U.S. in 1994," Pethel said. "We felt that the value system in the U.S., which places emphasis on work, income and consumption more than on relationships and happiness, did not agree with our own."

In 2002, they bought and renovated a 410-year-old house in Beaune, the medieval walled city that is the capital of the Burgundian wine industry. The following year was not the best time for an American to move to France. The U.S.-led invasion of Iraq began in March, and Europeans' anti-American sentiment was almost palpable. Despite the tensions between America and France, Pethel and his family were welcomed in Beaune. Fran got a job as a teacher, and their neighbors were friendly.

Pethel answered an ad for a field hand and met Burgundy producer Jean-Marc Pillot, who recalls that "a short phone interview left me somewhat suspicious of his accent, which was -- how to put it -- not typically Burgundian. You'll understand my surprise when, at the time we'd arranged for a personal interview, I heard the roar of a Mercedes convertible arriving in the courtyard. A couple of seconds later, a tall man extracted himself from the car, typically American, with an earring but with, at the same time, an air of dynamism and kindness. After several questions, I immediately saw that Pethel was passionate about Burgundy, and in this profession, it's passion that drives everything."

Pictures. Christian Schiller and Blair Pethel in in Savigny-lès-Beaune and Washington DC

He worked for other winemakers until he could buy his own vineyards and renovate a former tractor shed into a winery. Pethel had to become fluent in French in order to complete a rigorous 10-month course at the Lycee Viticole de Beaune. Known as Burgundy School, it is where the local winemaking regulations are taught along with organic chemistry and tax law, all in French. Some of his classmates were less than enthusiastic about an American joining their ranks. "Good-natured teasing I can stand," Pethel said. "This was not. I had to threaten to punch one guy to get him to back off."

Despite the hostility and other obstacles, his Domaine Dublere began to thrive. But, as it has elsewhere, the downturn has reversed Pethel's fortunes. Yet to be a winemaker is to be an optimist. While Pethel doesn't expect any financial help from what he calls "the socialist French government," the Burgundy Wine Board sees potential growth in nontraditional markets and is promoting the region's wines aggressively. There is hope that the economy will recover and that the 2009 vintage will live up to expectations.

However, Fran notes that her husband doesn't play the piano much anymore. One evening, as he waited for their kids to get settled before the couple went out for dinner, he sat at his grand piano and played a Schumann concerto. Pethel was so absorbed that he didn't hear anyone walk in the room. After a few minutes, he noticed Fran and a visitor listening in a corner.

"We should get going," he said with a grin. "I have to be back in the vineyards early in the morning."

Lou Marmon is a doctor and freelance wine writer. He can be reached through his Web site at http://www.grapelines.com.

Chef Jeffrey Buben's Woodward Table

Winner of the James Beard Foundation's "Best Chef Mid-Atlantic 1999", Jeffrey Buben is the chef and owner of three restaurants in Washington, D.C., Vidalia, Bistro Bis and Woodward Table/Woodward Takeout Food. Buben is a 1978 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America. With over 35 years in the industry, he worked as a young chef in such notable restaurants as The Sign of the Dove, Le Cygne and Le Chantilly in New York and at several distinguished hotels including The Four Seasons, The Mayflower and The Hotel Pierre.

Pictures: Woodward Table

After relocating to Washington, D.C. area in 1984, Buben opened Vidalia in 1993 and was acknowledged by Bon Appétit as one of the “Best New Restaurants.” It continues to garner critical acclaim by both local and national recognition with its regional American cooking delivered with Southern hospitality. Vidalia was inducted into Nation’s Restaurant News prestigious Fine Dining Hall of Fame in 2008. The fall of 1998 heralded the arrival of Buben’s second restaurant, Bistro Bis located at the Hotel George on Capitol Hill. Bis features creative contemporary French bistro cooking with updated renditions of classic fare. With its numerous awards, Bis continues to be the place “Where Capitol Hill Dines.” Bis has been featured on the Travel Channel as a top restaurant destination in Washington, D.C. Woodward Table opened in November of 2012 to critical acclaim.

Jeffrey is a partner with his wife Sallie in the restaurants and enjoys promoting and teaching his profession to young cooks.

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges­ au­ Mont­ d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­ Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-George - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-­Saint­-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-­Belair - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne ­Romanée, Côte de Nuits - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour at Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at Champagne Jean Josselin, a Grower Champagne House in Gyé­ sur­ Seine – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagne House AR Lenoble in Epernay, with Christian Holthausen - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

The Grand Finale of a Great Tour: Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Alexander Stodden, Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr

With 4,5 ouf of 5 grapes, the Gault&Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 lists Weingut Jean Stodden as the leading wine producer in the Ahr Valley, followed by  Weingut Meyer-Näkel, with 4 grapes. This year on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours, we visited Weingut Jean Stodden, Weingut Kreuzberg and had lunch at the tavern of Weingut Meyer-Näkel.

Picture: Weingut Jean Stodden

Owner and winemaker Alexander Stodden was our host. Alexander is the fifth generation of the family to work in the business. Alexander started in the cellar in 2001 and has been in charge since 2006.

The visit started with a tasting in the winery's tasting room, followed by a tour of the wine cellar.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Jean Stodden

“Yes, Stodden is without doubt the best producer on the Ahr today.” Joel Payne, Gault Millau

Berry Bros & Rudd: The Stodden family have been dedicated to producing fine wines in Germany since 1578, a company even older than Berry Bros. & Rudd. The philosophy here is to work in harmony with nature. They have never been a champion of the soft Pinot Noir style usually found in the Ahr, instead favouring ideals that hail from the Cotes de Nuits in Burgundy. Dujac, Ponsot and Roumier are all firm favourites (and friends) of the Stodden family who aim to capture some of this essence, but with a German expression.

The winemaking is fairly traditional with longer macerations (4 to 21 days), then fermentation on skins until the right amount of body has been achieved. The wines and lees are then transferred to barriques from the massif Central in France for a minimum of 16 months after the harvest to develop fully. These are bigger wines with breadth, ripeness and structure.

Pictures: Tasting with Alexander Stodden

sourgrapeswine.com: Jean Stodden is one of the top producers of Pinot Noir in the world.  To say that the Ahr Valley is a unique habitat for growing grapes is an understatement.  I'm positive this is definitely one of the most (if not the most) unique places for growing Pinot Noir in the world.  This is Germany’s northernmost wine region.  At 560 hectares (1,250 acres), it is also one of the smallest.

Jean Stodden has 6.5 Has of vineyards in Rech split among three mountain vineyards: Recher Herrenberg, Dernauer Hardtberg and Ahrweiler Rosenthal.  These vines are amongst the most northern in Germany and all the vines are perched precariously on extremely steep slopes composed of mostly slate that can only be tended to by hand; a few solitary parcels require mountain climbing skills to be reached.

Pictures: Touring the Cellar with Alexander Stodden

The soil is ideal as it retains heat well that's obviously important to this overparticular varietal.  The Ahr river and the Eifel mountain range create the warm yet moderate microclimate ideal for producing top shelf Pinot Noir.  Due to the Nordic location, the days during the growing season are immensely long, but the intensity of the sun is less than that of France’s Burgundy region.

The result?  Uniform warmth throughout the long days with cool nights that Pinot Noir flourishes in. Jean Stodden does not seem to compare the Ahr to Burgundy, he only wants to make wines that showcase the terroir of the region.  Only 5-6% of his wines are exported outside of Germany.  Sour Grapes is fortunate to sell some impressive German Pinot Noirs from all over Germany including the Pfalz, Rheingau & Baden regions and is now happy to offer these as well.

The Wines Alexander Poured

2016 Jean Stodden Spätburgunder Blanc de Noir
2015 Jean Stodden Spätburgunder 
2015 Jean Stodden Spätburgunder J
2014 Jean Stodden Spätburgunder JS
2013 Jean Stodden Recher Spätburgunder 
2014 Jean Stodden Sonnenberg Spätburgunder GG
2014 Jean Stodden Herrenberg Spätburgunder GG

Under the heading "Spotlight on Spätburgunder" the Decanter November 2017 issue carries an article by Anne Krebiehl, MW, on German Pinot Noir. Germany’s Spätburgunders are now coming to the fore. The article comprises a list of 20 of the finest examples. The 2014 Jean Stodden Sonnenberg Spätburgunder GG is on that list.

The World Class Pinot Noirs of Weingut Jean Stodden

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Alexander for a wonderful tasting and cellar tour.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Visit and tasting at Weingut Jean Stodten, in Rech, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk at Weingut Fritz Haag (VDP) in Brauneberg, Mosel, with Oliver Haag

Dinner at the 2 Michelin star restaurant Schanz in Piesport, Mosel

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Visit and tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus (VDP) in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, Mosel, with Dr. Carl von Schubert 

Visit and tasting at Weingut von Hövel (VDP) in Oberemmel, Saar, Mosel, with Max von Kunow

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber (VDP) in Monzingen, Nahe, with Frank Schönleber

Wine-pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the wines of Weingut Hexamer.

Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker, in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker

Lunch at Gutsausschank-Ristorante Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau

Pictures: Nicolas Glumineau of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Christian Schiller Tasting 16 Vintages with 24 Bordeaux Lovers in Washington DC

"Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is arguably the single hottest château on Bordeaux’s Left Bank right now." (ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 20, 2017)

The vertical tastings with Bordeaux star producers organized by Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC are legendary. This time, he managed to arrange a 16 vintages vertical with General Manager/ Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalandeat at the excellent Spanish restaurant La Taberna del Alabarder.

Picture: La Taberna del Alabarder in Washington DC, USA

Nicolas opened 2 bottles for 24 Bordeaux lovers, including Tim O’Rourke of Zachys Wine, Marc Wessels of MacArthur Beverages, Washington Post wine writer Dave McIntyre, blogger Nix-Gomez, Lisa Denning, staff writer of the Grape Collective, who traveled all the way from New York City to participate in the dinner, and wine writer Bijan Jabbari, who helped organize the event.

Pictures: Nicolas Glumineau of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande with Panos Kakaviatos, Bijan Jabbari and Sommelier Maria Ortiz Garcia

Invitation

Dear Friends, I know that I usually organize such events in January - and that should happen, too, in 2018 - but we have the good fortune to welcome Nicolas Glumineau of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande to Washington D.C. on Wednesday evening 18 October this year.

Two bottles each of 16 vintages are being shipped over, ex-château, to Washington, for us to enjoy over a full course dinner at the excellent Spanish restaurant La Taberna del Alabardero. Many thanks to Bijan for helping to locate this establishment, since Ripple has sadly closed.

Because we should be 24 people, restaurant management has kindly agreed to close off a large space of the restaurant for us, so we would not dine in the cozy single room for smaller wine dinners.

The food is excellent there and so should be the service.

Will have more details on the dinner servings, as the menu is being planned.

But the dinner, including tips and taxes, comes to $200 per person, including the 16 vintages of Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande.

Here the vintages:

. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1975 and 1978
. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1982, 1985 and 1989
. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1995 and 1996
. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2000, 2003, 2005 and 2009
. Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010, 2014, 2015 and 2016

Please let me know if you cannot make this, as we do have a waiting list.

Yours, Panos

See also: A Glass of Bordeaux – What Else? – With Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos

Pictures: Panos Kakaviatos Welcoming the Guests

Château Pichon-Longueville Lalande

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is one of the so called Super Seconds. It is a 75-hectare property that produces on average 36,000 cases per year. Located in the east of the Pauillac appellation, the vineyards lie on deep gravel beds underpinned by clay and then sandstone and limestone (part of these vineyards actually reside in the St-Julien appellation). The wine is fermented in stainless steel cuvées and then matured in oak barriques (50% new) for 18 months.

Pictures: Reception

With 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot, Pichon Lalande has an unusually high proportion of Merlot for a Pauillac property, which tends to make the tannic structure of this wine slightly softer than wines from many other classified Pauillac châteaux, which particularly in France is described as a more "feminine" style. In recent years, however, Pichon Lalande has moved to increase their plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, with the belief that Cabernet is fundamentally better suited to the portion of the château’s soils that are on gravel.

Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was once part of the larger Pichon estate, owned by Pierre de Rauzan, along with what today is Château Pichon-Longueville Baron. In 1850, the estate was divided into the two current Pichon estates. In 1925, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was bought by Edouard Miailhe and Louis Miailhe. The daughter of Edouard Miailhe, May Eliane de Lencquesaing (born in 1926) later became the owner and manager of the property.

In 2006, May Eliane de Lencquesaing sold a majority interest in the château to the Rouzaud family, which also owns the Champagne House Louis Roederer. A totally new cellar outfitted with modern equipent was in place for the 2013 harvest.

The second wine is called Réserve de la Comtesse.

Pictures: Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

Nicolas Glumineau

Nicolas Glumineau has been Managing Director and Technical Director/ Winemaker of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalandeat since 2012. His first vintage at Pichon Lalande from start to finish was 2013.

Nicolas Glumineau: I have always loved wine, but it was not my first career choice. I studied biological science an d research, but I realized early on that I needed to be outside – a laboratory or a research desk was not the environment in which I would be happy.

Pictures: Nicolas Glumineau

Around that time, I came to the Bordeaux region and ended up meeting my future wife. My plan was to become an opera singer, but the amount of travelling was too much to maintain a good relationship. So, what could be more obvious than combining my love for wine and the fact that I live in the most prestigious region for wine – Bordeaux – with my profession and start a career in the wine business? In 2005, I worked for Haut Brion and in 2006 for Château Montrose before I became the general manager of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. I look back at my career and think it was the best decision of my life to work for the wine business.

The Dinner

APERITIVO - Served with Champagne
Jamón Ibérico De Bellota (5 Jotas)
Iberico Ham From Bellota (5 Jotas)
Croquetas De Boletus Y Trufa
Boletus Mushroom and Truffle Croquettes

The evening began with Champagnes generously donated by participants, including fine grower bubblies, such as a delicious La Closerie by Jerome Prévost, an Extra Brut Agrapart Terroirs both savory and sleek, a lovely Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs, and a wonderful Domaine Cedric Bouchard among others. There were larger houses, too, including a brisk and refreshingly dry Pol Roger 2008.


FIRST COURSE
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010-2009-2005-2003
Lomo De Caballa Sobre Arroz Meloso De Pimientos Morrones
Mackerel Tenderloin over Morrones pepper-creamy rice.


SECOND COURSE
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2002-2000-1996-1995
Magret De Pato Con Toques De Naranja Con Pastel De Butternut Squash
Duck Magret with Touches of Oranges with Butternut Squash Gratin


THIRD COURSE
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1989-1985-1982-1978-1975
Kobe Beef Con Patatas, Zanahorias Y Chalotas Al Estilo Hasselback
Kobe Beef with Potatoes, Carrots and Shallots Hasselback Style


CHEESE PLATE (CHEESES)
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2014-2016-2016
Puig Pedros (Vaca), Retorta Pascuales (Oveja), Manchego (1 Año)
Puig Pedros (Cow), Retorta Pascuales (Sheep), Manchego Cheese (1 Year)


DESSERT - Sauternes
Flan De Pistacho Sobre Flan De Caramelo Y Helado De Vanilla Beans
Pistacho Flan over a Caramel Flan and Vanilla Bean Ice-Cream


Taberna Taberna del Albardero

Michelin Guide 2018

When times call for unapologetic, old-world formality, reserve a table at Taberna del Albardero. Regal and resplendent, with everything from the walls and fabrics to the plush carpets awash in vivid red, this is the kind of place where servers donning formal attire deliver white glove service to international dignitaries-the din of a dozen different languages weaving a kind of symphony in the background. Madrid-native Javier Romero's menu begins with classic Spanish tapas-patatas bravas and gambas al ajillo. Edgier creations may include prawn burgers on ink-tinted buns and arroz cremosa calabaza, a Spanish riff on risotto with tempura-fried Blue Point oysters, butternut squash purée-flavored sauce, and a drizzle of anise liqueur.

Javier Cuesta Muñoz is the Executive Chef.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Nicolas Glumineau with Javier Cuesta Muñoz, Executive Chef

Château Pichon-Longueville Lalande Wine Searcher Average Prices (In US$ bfore Taxes)

2016 US$165
2015 US$139
2014 US$116
2010 US$210
2009 US$205
2005 US$160
2003 US$174
2000 US$260
1996 US$268
1995 US$255
1989 US$232
1985 US$230
1982 US$741
1978 US$191
1975 US$207

Kevin Shin's Tasting Notes (Cellar Tracker)

Flight 1 - 2010, 2009, 2005 and 2003 (4 Notes)


2010 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Wonderful start. Beautifully perfumed nose displaying intense sweet red and black fruit, cassis dominates, also cherry and blueberry, strong floral note, a hint of vanilla/oak, caramel, a hint of spearmint, only a slight hint of lead pencil, spicy, no noticeable PL signature green/vegetal note and limestone/earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered, rich and sweet yet precise and energetic, very silky and fluid, noticeable very fine tannins and a seamless long sweet red fruit and flower driven finish. Telltale sign of PL’s red fruit and precision. I believe lead pencil will emerge in time but not sure about the green/vegetal note. IMO, this may develop like the 89, i.e. good density and energy. This will please both the traditionalists and the modernists. One of my top wines.

2009 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Expressive nose displaying mostly black fruit with a hint of plum, blackberry, cassis, strong PL bell pepper which is surprising considering the vintage, also strong PL/Pauillac lead pencil, coffee, a hint of burnt sugar lollipop and mineral. Very good concentration, not as polished/layered as the 10, ripe but linear, warm and soft in the middle, good acidity, fine tannins and a medium to long sweet black fruit/plum and green pepper/lead pencil driven finish. For my palate, showing strong PL bell pepper and lead pencil, i.e. seems more PL than the 10. I slightly prefer the 10’s energy, opulence and precision. I typically don’t point out the openness but the 10 seems more open than the 09 in this occasion.

2005 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Surprisingly soft, mostly warm subtle red fruits, cherry, strawberry jam, a hint of cassis, cedar and lead pencil. Medium light weight which is really surprisingly for the vintage, warm and soft red fruit, slightly lean, not terribly layered, good freshness and purity, good acidity and mineral, and a medium soft red fruit and lead pencil driven finish. This may develop like the 75 and 81 which certainly is not a bad thing. For my palate however, it is a bit disappointing considering the vintage which produced so many great age worthy wines.

2003 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Surprisingly classic, nicely masking most of the 03 roasted fruit expression, a hint of cassis and licorice, cherry, plum, grilled shiitake, cedar, bell pepper, a hint of eucalyptus, mocha, lactic and earth. Medium to fully body, silky but not terribly layered and a bit one dimensional, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long black fruit and milk driven finish. I am surprised by the classic showing in lieu of the vintage. Not the most complex wine but really enjoyable. I believe it has reach the youthful peak but no need to hurry.

Flight 2 - 2002, 2000, 1996 and 1995 (4 Notes)


2002 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Expressive nose displaying ripe blue and black fruit, cassis, dry blueberry, black cherry, licorice, a hint of lead pencil and bell pepper, and strong earthy mineral. Impressive concentration, sweet slightly dry black fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, a hint of bitterness in the middle and a medium to long black fruit and bell pepper driven finish. Noticeable tannins at the end. Just like the other 02 top left bank wines, it displays impressive concentration and generous fruit but feels a bit “chunky”. Still very youthful and will improve for another decade or two, i.e. if you prefer the tertiary notes.

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2000 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Someone mentions the 00 Figeac but I actually like this wine as the wine is nicely balanced and show good density. The intense singular red fruit expression actually reminds me the 13 Ao Yun in a very good way. Expressive nose displaying intense sweet red fruit, strawberry concentrate, dry cherry, strong green note which is quite spicy so jalapeno rather than bell pepper/vegetal, kochujang (hot Korean pepper paste), lead pencil and limestone mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered, good density, intense red fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and a medium to long intense red fruit and jalapeno driven finish. Certainly showing noticeable PL green but the wine shows intense red fruit and excellent density for my palate. This will develop wonderfully for another decade. IMO, comparable to Clos Rougeard les poyeux/le bourg. If you like the style of PL, you will appreciate this wine.

1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Very classic refine nose displaying singular black fruit, i.e. unison polished black fruit note, very floral and perfumed, cedar, strong lead pencil and crushed rock. Beautifully integrated sophisticate palate, silky and polished, cassis and lead pencil driven palate impression, very precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, silky tannins and a long mineral finish. I am a big fan of the 96, so classic, pure and energetic with impeccable balance. If you prefer the energy, sophistication and precision, this is totally ready.

1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

It is always fascinating to compare the 95 and 96 left bank wines. The 96 is the epitome of a classic claret, so sophisticated and precise where the 95 is opulent and hedonistic, always with a hint of roasted fruit, This is no exception. Expressive nose displaying sweet black fruit, cassis, blackberry, a hint of black cherry, coffee, mocha, cedar and mineral. Excellent concentration, good density, slightly rustic and chunk mocha/roasted fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a medium to long opulent sweet black fruit and mocha driven finish. Still quite youthful but ready to go. Really nice wine but I prefer the 96 for the purity, precision and polished palate.

Flight 3 - 1975, 1978, 1982, 1985 and 1989 (5 Notes)


1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

This is a textbook example of a fully mature classic claret. Fully mature harmonious nose displaying subtle red fruit, red currant, red cherry, cedar, a hint of caramel, lead pencil, leather and earth. Fully integrated palate, still remnants of tannins that remind us the vintage, harmonious and a seamless subtle finish. It would be a wonderful wine to enjoy in a cold winter night in front of a fireplace.

1978 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

The first nose impression is exotic Asian medicine, then generous sweet red fruit, red currant, cherry, caramel, PL’s signature bell pepper and lead pencil, leather, dry tobacco and cedar. More noticeable “materials” compare to the 75, still generous red fruit, decadent red fruit, nicely layered, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a long cedar and red fruit driven finish. There is a hint of Asian medicine at the end. The note of bell pepper and lead pencil is a telltale sign of Pichon Lalande. However, a strong note of Asian medicine makes this, perhaps the most exotic wine of the night. It has reached the peak will drinking beautifully for another decade or two.

1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

The 82 Pichon Lalande has been one of the most consistent 82s that seems to always flirts with perfection. It combines the hedonistic opulent fruit of the vintage with PL’s freshness and energy, i.e. bell pepper/lead pencil . Unfortunately the expression on this bottle is not so clear. All the components seem to be there but the impression is slightly murky. Medium expressive nose displaying decadent ripe red fruit with a hint of cassis, a hint of bell pepper and lead pencil, cedar, caramel and strong wet limestone like mineral. There is a hint of soy like oxidative note which is unusual. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a medium to long ripe black fruit, green pepper and cedar driven finish. Really enjoyable but not the best bottle I have had.

1985 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Fully integrated nose displaying soft and round red and black fruit, cherry, strawberry water, a hint of cassis, cedar, dry leather, a hint of tobacco, lead pencil, bell pepper, and earthy mineral. Perhaps the silkiest and most polished palate, very precise, perhaps slightly lean, only a hint of red fruit, bright acidity and a medium to long seamless mineral and red fruit driven finish. Another classic Pichon Lalande.

1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Perhaps the most dense wine along with the 82, prior to 2010. Also the fruit seems darker than the others. Expressive nose displaying crème de cassis, plum, black cherry, licorice, mocha, bitter milk chocolate, cedar, lead pencil, only a hint of green, leather and earth. Excellent concentration, beautifully layered sweet black fruit, medium acidity, medium mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long licorice and leather driven finish. It is drinking beautifully in a youthful way.

Flight 4 - 2014, 2015 & 2015 (3 Notes)


2014 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Expressive nose displaying intense ripe black fruit, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, licorice, ink and cedar. Excellent concentration, chewy yet silky and precise, intense black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long finish with licorice and black fruit at the end. Despite the ripe black fruit, it retains good freshness and precision. This will need another two decades to reach the peak. It is not showing much PL green and lead pencil at the moment and I doubt they will emerge with time. Very impressive showing.

2015 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

I am not sure what happened here but the wine seems very lean. Medium expressive nose displaying sweet red fruit, red currant, strawberry jam, cheery, a hint of cedar, bell pepper, lead pencil, spicy, cinnamon and strong limestone. Medium concentration, silky, lean and precise, good acidity, strong mineral presence and a medium to long red fruit driven finish. It is very different than the 14 and the16, i.e. leaner and dominated by red fruit, very Pichon Lalande. After the dinner, Nicolas mentions that it is not a good time to taste the 15 as they are tight and lean. Hopefully it will gain weight with a few more years in bottle.

2016 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

Barrel sample, obviously very primary and a bit grape juice like. Expressive nose displaying intense jammy black fruit, crème de cassis, ink, lavender, licorice, strong lead pencil, a hint of cedar and liquid smoke, bitter chocolate and earth. Impressive concentration, nicely layered with intense perfectly ripe blueberry and blackberry, quite chewy yet silky, sensual and polished, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and an incredibly long intense crème de cassis and licorice driven finish. Despite being the most concentrated wine of the night, it retains excellent freshness and purity. My WOTN.

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Picture: Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst with Christian Schiller in the Schlossberg Vineyard, Grosse Lage

The visit of the Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt in Castell, Franken, started with a vineyard tour, where we had a glass of a Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt Sekt. We then toured the winemaking facilites, including the old wine cellar. We finished the tour with a tasting of Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt wines.

General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst hosted us.

Pictures: Welcome

Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt

The Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt is one of the oldest wine estates in Germany. 70 hectares of vines in seven vineyard sites – nearly all in sole ownership – form the core of the estate. The first mention of the vineyards Schlossberg, Hohnart, Reitsteig, and Trautberg is found in a document from 1266. The vineyards are all situated below the family’s ancestral home and are marked by the powerful gypsum marl soils of the Steigerwald’s slopes.

Over 40 percent of the vineyards are planted with Silvaner. The Castell family was instrumental in introducing the Silvaner grape – originally from an area that is now Slovenia – to Franken in 1659.

Owner: Ferdinand Fürst zu Castell-Castell
General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst
VDP member since 1955
Bottle production: 450 000
Grape varieties: 40% Silvaner, 20% Müller-Thurgau, 8% Riesling, 8% Weißburgunder, 12% Other White and 12% Red

Pictures: Vineyard Tour with Björn Probst

The House of Castell

The House of Castell is a German noble family of mediatised counts of the old Holy Roman Empire. The origins of the Castell family can be traced back to the year 1057. The Castell family was an influential force and reigned over a number of well-known places in Franconia. There are 2 lines, the Castell-Castell and Castell-Rüdenhausen family branches.

Faber-Castell is a sub-line of the Castell-Rüdenhausen branch. Through the marriage of Count Alexander of Castell-Rüdenhausen (1866–1928) with Ottilie Baroness von Faber from a well-known family of industrialists the branch of Faber-Castell was created in 1898.

Pictures: Cellar Tour with Björn Probst

Major components of the assets of the Castell family include: (1) Fürstlich Castell’sche Bank, Credit-Casse AG. This private bank was founded in 1774. It is the oldest private bank of Bayern. (2) Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt. (3) A.W Faber-Castell – one of the world's largest manufacturers of pens, pencils, office and art supplies, as well as high-end writing instruments and luxury leather goods.

The Faber-Castell company was founded in 1761 in Stein near Nürnberg by cabinet maker Kaspar Faber (1730–84), and has remained in the Faber family for eight generations. It opened branches in New York (1849), London (1851), Paris (1855), and expanded to Vienna (1872) and St. Petersburg (1874). It opened a factory in Geroldsgrün and expanded internationally and launched new products under Kaspar Faber's ambitious great-grandson, Lothar (1817–96). In 1900, after the marriage of Lothar's granddaughter with a cadet of the Counts of Castell, the enterprise took the name of Faber-Castell.

Pictures: Tasting with Björn Probst

Björn Probst

Björn Probst has been Managing Director and Winemaker since 2016. Before joining the Weingut Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt(42), he was running the Weingut zu Weimar and the Weinhaus zu Weimar in Sachsen, owned by Prinz zur Lippe. Born in Cologne, he studied at the Geisenheim University.

Pictures: Ferdinand Fürst zu Castell-Castell with General Manager and Winemaker Björn Probst

The Wines


NV Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Pinot Sekt Brut

2015 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Schloss Castell Müller-Thurgau trocken VDP.Gutswein
2016 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Schloss Castell Silvaner trocken VDP.Gutswein

The ‘Schloss Castell’ line is made from Franconian grape varieties presented in the traditional Bocksbeutel: accentuated by fine violet or herbal aromatics, with a balanced note of minerals or fruit - always distinguishably Franconian.


2015 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Kugelspiel Silvaner trocken VDP.Erste Lage
2015 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Hohnart Riesling trocken VDP.Erste Lage


2015 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Schlossberg Silvaner trocken GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2008 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Schlossberg Silvaner trocken GG VDP.Grosse Lage


2006 Fürstlich Castell'sche Domänenamt Schlossberg Silvaner Beerenauslese VDP.Grosse Lage

Schlossberg is the top Castell vineyard.


Bye-bye

Thank you Björn for a memorable visit of  Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt in Castell

Pictures: Bye-bye

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Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Fürstlich Castell'sches Domänenamt, with General Manager/ Winemaker Björn Probst

Michelin-star Level Winepairing Dinner at Winzerhof Stahl, Franken, Prepared by Winemaker/ Chef Christian Stahl

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg,Franken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wachstetter in Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg, with Rainer Wachtstetter

Lunch at Restaurant Schloss Monrepos Ludwigsburg, Württemberg, with Chef Ben Benasr (1 Sar Michelin)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos in Ludwigsburg, Württemberg, with Andrea Ritz, Wine Queen of Württemberg



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Picture: In the Vineyard with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier, Baden

The first stop of the Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours, which took place from October 1 to 8, 2017, was at the impressive Schloss Neuweier in the small village of Neuweier in Baden, close to the spa-town Baden Baden.

See here for an overview of the tour: Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

At Weingut Schloss Neuweier, we had a wine luncheon at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Röttele's Restaurant & Residenz of Chef Armin Röttele and his wife Sophie, with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker of Weingut Schloss Neuweier.

Before the luncheon, Robert showed us around in the vineyards and the cellar.

We were there right in the middle of the harvest. We had a chance to closely watch the pumping over of red grapes that were soaking on the skins; the open vat fermentation of red grapes; and the arrival of grapes at the receiving hall of the winery, including destemming and pressing.

After the luncheon, we went over to the tasting room of Weingut Schloss Neuweier for a quick tasting of the new vintage.

This posting focuses on the initial part of the visit, i.e. the vineyard and cellar tour plus the wine tasting with Robert. A second posting on the luncheon at Röttele's Restaurant will follow.

Schloss Neuweier

(1) Weingut Schloss Neuweier is part of the wonderfully restored, historic castle Schloss Neuweier, where wine has been made for centuries.

(2) Schloss Neuweier also includes a top notch restaurant, where we had lunch during our visit. The restaurant is in the first floor of the castle. It is owned and run by Chef Armin Roettle and his wife and since 2006 in the 1 star Michelin category.

Picture: Robert Schätzle Welcoming the Group

(3) Weingut Schloss Neuweier focuses on Riesling wines, which are outstanding. You would expect that in the Mosel or the Rheingau region, but not in Baden. Reflecting the special soil of the vineyards surrounding the castle and the special micro-climate there as well as a long-standing Riesling tradition and passion, Weingut Schloss Neuweier produces world class Rieslings.

(4) The export share of Weingut Schloss Neuweier is negligible, which is typical for the Baden region. But this may change for Weingut Schloss Neuweier in the future and was not like this in the past. Its Mauerwein (Wall wine – from a terraced vineyard on the hill behind the castle) was one of Queen Victoria’s favorites. It had won an award at the International Exhibition of Philadelphia in 1876 and was on the airship Graf Zeppelin’s maiden flight.

(5) Until recently, the driving force behind Schloss Neuweier, including Weingut Schloss Neuweier, was Gisela Joos. She and her husband, a well-known architect from Frankfurt am Main, took over the castle, including the winery, in 1992 and invested around Euro 50 million in the castle, including the winery. What you see today is essentially due to their efforts and money. In 1999, Weingut Neuweier was admitted to the prestigious VDP association, when Gisela Joos was in charge.

(6) Today, the “Schlossherr” (owner) of Schloss Neuweier and the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Neuweier is Robert Schaetzle. His family acquired the estate in 2012. The senior management of the winery of course changed with Robert taking over. The already high quality level of the wines was definitely maintained if not increased by Robert Schaetzle. The Joos family is still living in the castle, but on a lease basis. Also, the lease of the 1 star restaurant was not affected by the change in ownership.

Pictures: Arrival of Grapes at the Receiving Hall of the Winery, including Destemming and Pressing

History

When we arrived, Robert suggested to walk over to the vineyards first. While walking there, he introduced us to the rich history of Schloss Neuweier.

The castle belongs to the few historic buildings from the 12th century that still exist. Die Ritter von Bach were the first who started planting vines and producing wine. All subsequent owners showed interested in winemaking.

Its current shape took the castle, when it was owned by Philipp Kämmerer von Worms, called von Dalberg. During 1548 to 1549, this gentleman created the castle as you can see it today. To remind everyone of his creation he put in the entry portal: Zeyt bryngt Rosen – Time brings Roses.

In 1615, the castle was passed onto the second daughter of Philipp von Dalberg, whose husband was Wolf von Eltz and Knebel von Katzenellenbogen. Katzenellenbogen was a high ranking knight who fought under the rule of the Archbishop of Mainz. He also was an important person in terms of winemaking at Weingut Schloss Neuweier. He brought his knowledge from the Franken area, the Bocksbeutel bottles and the Niersteiner and the Laubenheimer grape varities, which replaced the traditional Elblinger and Ortlieber.

Pictures: Pumping-over of Spätburgunder Grapes that were Soaking on the Skins

During the 19th century the castle changed its owners quiet frequently. From 1869, the Rößler family from Baden-Baden became the owner of the castle. The Rößler family is responsible for the Mauerberg vineyard gaining international recognition.

The Joos family bought the estate including all the buildings and the vineyard in 1992. With great enthusiasm and financial investments they brought the castle and all the attached buildings back to the full bloom, which you can still admire today. The renovations were completed in 2009.

In 2012, the estate was sold to the family of Robert Schaetzle; they come from a traditional vintners background in the Kaiserstuhl area near Freiburg.

Pictures: Fermentation of Red Grapes on the Skins

The Vineyards

The heart of the vineyard area (15 hectares) of Weingut Schloss Neuweier are two very steep monopoly sites: Schlossberg and Goldenes Loch.

Robert Schätzle: Schlossberg - This is a monopoly site of 3 hectares of south-facing slopes with up to 55°incline, entirely Riesling. The soil is very special, made up of ground granite, schist, shale and slate. Due to being close to an extinct volcano you also find quartz crystals on the surface. The climate is defined by being on the lower slopes of the Black Forrest Mountains and close to the Rhine plateau and in combination with the soil is ideal growing grounds for Riesling. The Riesling grown here gets a lot of sun during the day and at night the release of the heat that was accumulated during the day in the soil.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Robert Schätzle

Goldenes Loch - Another monopoly site of 1 hectare south-west facing cauldron between the Schlossberg and the Mauerberg. The name was established because of the foliage glowing golden in the autumn sun due to the concave mirror effect caused by the cauldron, catching the last rays of the day. The extreme incline of 60° or more was the main reason it was left alone but in 1993 the land was reclaimed by using small diagonal terraces. The grapes grown here produce exquisite Riesling wines.

Mauerberg: This is a south facing site. Historically, 60% of the Mauerberg was terraced, with each terrace large enough for one or two vines. The man-high natural stone walls contribute to the micro climate for the vines by keeping the warmth during the day as well as being dried be the wind from the Black Forest.

Heiligenstein: The name seems to originate from the Celtic culture stating a magical powerful place, which it is still today. The foundation is full of granite being enjoyed by our young Pinot Noir vines. Here is where we get our very clean, clear classical red wines from.

Wine Cellar

After the vineyard tour, we visited the wine cellar of Weingut Schloss Neuweier.

Pictures: In the Cellar with Robert Schätzle

Robert Schätzle

Robert Schätzle is a very interesting and charming fellow, with curly, almost Afro-style hair and a strong regional southern Baden accent. He lives at the castle with his French wife and one son, if I remember correctly.

Robert did not appeared out of nowhere. He has put in time at serious wineries over the years – at Franz Keller and Dr. Heger in Baden, across the Rhine in Alsace with Zind-Humbrecht and Marc Kreydenweiss, and in Bordeaux at La Tour de By. Before turning to wine, Robert was in academia. He studied at Université Bordeaux Segalen in France.

Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Vineyard area (hectare): 18 ha
Varietal in %: 88 % Riesling 8 % Spätburgunder 3 % Weißburgunder 1 % Gewürztraminer
Output per year: 98.000 Flaschen

Lunch

Following the tasting, we had lunch with Robert's wines and the outstanding food of 1 star Michelin Chef Armin Röttele. Robert joined us for the lunch. I will report about the luncheon in a separate posting.

Pictures: Wine Lunch at Röttele's Restaurant

Quick Tasting

At the end of the visit, we went over to the tasting room for a quick tasting of the new vintage.

Pictures: Quick Tasting of the New Vintage with Robert Schätzle

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard and Cellar Tour at Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden-Baden-Neuweier, with Owner/ Winemaker Robert Schätzle

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine tasting concert with the A-Capella Ensemble “Männer und Tenöre” at Weingut Aufricht in Meersburg – Stetten, with Manfred and Hildegard Aufricht

The Lake Wines of the Aufricht Brothers: From Lake Constance in Germany

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markgraf von Baden in Salem, Baden

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Löffler in Wettenberg, Markgräfler Land, Baden, with Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler Family and Founder Wolfgang Löffler 

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stigler in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Andreas and Maximilian Stigler

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace

Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen, Pfalz, with Johannes Jülg

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Pictures: Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Annette Schiller led a tasting comparing French and German wines. More specifically, the tasting focused on Burgundy and Alsace in France and Baden and the Pfalz in Germany.

We had a full house. The room for 50 people was packed with 55 people attending.

We poured 7 flights with 2 wines each flight, except for the Crémant flight, were we had 3 Crémants from Burgundy, Alsace and the Pfalz. For each wine, we had 3 bottles, except for the 3 Crémants, where we had 3, 4 and 5 bottles. Most of the wines were bought at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC. Four of the wines we poured, Annette and I brought from Germany. One wine (2015 Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder) was donated by the Importer Esprit du Vins.

Picture: Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

Invitation

German wine lovers! We are excited to present another tasting in Washington, DC. This time, we will be comparing wines from Germany with wines from France. More specifically, we will compare Germany’s Baden and Pfalz regions with French wines from Burgundy and Alsace. We will begin tasting at 7:00pm, Friday October 27, 2017.

The tasting will be led by Annette Schiller, long-time member of the German Wine Society.

Pictures: Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

We will start off with two Crémants from Burgundy and the Pfalz. Crémants are sparklers made in the Champagne Méthode, but typically at much lower prices.

We will then move on to Burgundy and Baden and focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Burgundy, including Chablis, is well known for its world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. Not so well known, Germany is the #3 Pinot Noir producer in the world. Baden alone grows about as much Pinot Noir as the world’s fourth most important Pinot Noir grower, New Zealand. Such is German enthusiasm for their Spätburgunder, as Pinot Noir is known there, that we don’t see huge quantities on export markets. And, while Spätburgunders from renowned producers are rarely cheap, Burgundy prices are now almost ludicrously high, so alternatives to red burgundy have become increasingly attractive.

Pictures: Happy Faces

Moving to the north from Burgundy and the west from Baden, Alsace is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines, including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. North of Alsace, across the border in the Pfalz, winemakers produce similar wines. Overall, the whites from Alsace tend to be more full-bodied and higher in alcohol, while the siblings from the Pfalz tend to be leaner and more elegant. We will compare Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling wines from Alsace and the Pfalz.

In total, we plan to have 12 wines - 3 from each region. The tasting list is being finalized and will be communicated as soon as it is ready.

Light refreshments of charcutterie, cheese and baguette will be served with the wines.

Event cost is $33 for members and $40 non-members. All payment must be received by Monday October 23.

The Tasting

Pictures: Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

The Wines

This was a most interesting tasting. All wines, both from France and Germany, showed very well. Karen Taylor tweeted that she was impressed by the German Pinot Noirs although it was difficult to overcome her bias for the French Pinot Noirs.

Karen Taylor‏ (@KTinWDC) tweeted during the event:

@ombiasypr gives a spirited and engaging French-German taste-off for DC's German Wine Society. Trying but can't get past my French bias

My takeaway: Some German Pinot Noirs are very good, too bad they are so hard to find stateside

Picture: Germany meets France: Bourgogne, Baden, Alsace and Pfalz - Tasting with the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter), led by Annette Schiller, USA/ France/ Germany

1) Crémant: Burgundy - Alsace - Pfalz

Burgundy: NV La Burgondie, Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut Réserve
Alsace: NV Anne de K., Rosé, Crémant d'Alsace, Brut
Pfalz: 2014 Jülg, Crémant, Brut

Picture: Crémant: Burgundy - Alsace - Pfalz

Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt.

A Crémant is a sparkling wine produced in the méthode champenoise, but not in Champagne. Initially, crémants could only be produced in France. Crémant de Bourgogne and Crémant d'Alsace are 2 well-known crémants. Today, any sparkling wine made in the méthode champenoise can be marketed as a crémant.

My favorite: Pfalz: 2014 Jülg, Crémant, Brut

Picture: Winemaker Johannes Jülg - Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2) Chardonnay: Burgundy - Baden

Burgundy, Côte de Beaune:
2014 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault Les Chevalières
Baden, Kaiserstul:
2015 Franz Keller, Oberbergener Bassgeige, Kaiserstul, Erste Lage

Picture: Chardonnay: Burgundy - Baden

Chardonnay is the signature white grape variety in Burgundy. In Baden, Chardonnay accounts for 1 percent of the total. Thierry et Pascale Matrot is a rather large producer in Meursault, Franz Keller is a rather large producer in Oberbergen. The Matrot Chardonnay was at the village wine/ Ortswein level, the Keller Chadonnay at the Premier Cru/ Erste Lage level. The Matrot Chardonnay was broader and had more noticeable oak notes than the crisp Keller Chardonnay.

My favorite: 2014 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault Les Chevalières

Picture: Annette Schiller and Fritz Keller, Weingut Franz Keller, Baden. See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

3) Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden

Burgundy, Côte de Nuits:
2015 Jean-Michel Guillon, Marsannay, Clos des Portes, Monopole
Baden, Bodensee:
2015 Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder

Picture: Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden

40 years ago, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, the share of red wine is well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.

Picture: Pascal Salvadori of US Importer Esprit du Vin and Annette Schiller with 2015 Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder

In the Novermber issue of the Decanter, Anne Krebiehl MW, published an article about the best Pinot Noirs in Germany under the title "Spotlight on Spätburgunder". Not well known, but Germany is the third biggest Pinot Noir producer in the world (after Burgundy and Oregon).

My favorite: 2015 Jean-Michel Guillon, Marsannay, Clos des Portes, Monopole

Picture: Annette Schiller and Jean­-Michel Guillon - Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: Lake Constance with Birnau - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

4) Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden

Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise:
2015 Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey, 1er cru Les Clos du Roy
Baden, Kaiserstul:
2011 Stigler, Ihringer Winkelberg, Spätburgunder, Roter Boden, GG

Picture: Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden

Faiveley is a well known world class producer in Burgundy.

Andreas Stigler, a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany, is highly respected in Germany but little known outside of Germany. Annette showed one of his top Spätburgunders, a GG - Top dry wine from a Grosse Lage (Grand Cru).

My favorite: 2011 Stigler, Ihringer Winkelberg, Spätburgunder, Roter Boden, GG, Erste Lage

Picture: Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Picture: With Owner/ Winemaker Andreas Stigler, Weingut Stigler - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen ,

5) Pinot-Blanc: Alsace – Pfalz

Alsace:
2014 Trimbach, Pinot Blanc
Pfalz:
2010 Koehler-Ruprecht, Weisser Burgunder, Kallstadter Annaberg, Spätlese trocken

Picture: Pinot-Blanc: Alsace – Pfalz

Germany is the biggest Pinot Blanc producer in the world. Annette compared an entry-level wine of the world class producer Trimbach in Ribeauville with a Spätlese trocken (equivalent ot GG) of an iconic producer in the Pfalz, Weingut Köhler-Ruprecht, which recently was sold by the Philippi family to an American.

The German Pinot Blanc - much more expensive than the Trimbach - had more structure, depth and length. The Trimbach, at the price point of US$16 is a steal.

My favorite: 2014 Trimbach, Pinot Blanc

Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller and Steven Kent with Hubert Trimbach at Maison Trimbach - At Maison Trimbach in Alsace with Hubert Trimbach – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

6) Riesling: Alsace – Pfalz

Alsace:
2015 Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Cuvée Théo
Pfalz:
2013 A. Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Erste Lage

Picture: Riesling: Alsace – Pfalz

This flight compared 2 world class producers of dry Riesling. As expected, the 2015 Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Cuvée Théo, was stunning. But for me, the A. Christmann Riesling was even better (and more expensive). It was drier, sharper, crisper. For me the best white wine of the evening.

My favorite: 2013 A. Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Erste Lage

Picture: Christian Schiller and the Late Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach. See: Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace

Picture: Tasting and Discussing with Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Pfalz. See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

6) Gewürztraminer: Alsace – Pfalz

Alsace:
2013 Willm, Gewürztraminer, Réserve
Pfalz:
2014 Darting Gewürztraminer, Dürkheimer Nonnengarten, Kabinett

Picture: Gewürztraminer: Alsace – Pfalz

The last flight were 2 inexpensive, sweet-style wines. The Alsatian got its sweetness, I guess, from adding sweet reserve (sterylized juice), while the German Gewürztraminer got its sweetness from stopping the fermentation. The President of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) ranked the 2014 Darting Gewürztraminer, Dürkheimer Nonnengarten, Kabinett as his #1 white wine.

My favorite: 2013 Willm, Gewürztraminer, Réserve

At Home: Late Night Jazz and Faively

Annette and I ended this great evening some Jazz and another bottle of Faiveley.

Picture: Late Night Jazz and Faiveley

Previous Tastings at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Annette Schiller

Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)

Chardonnay: Germany versus Chablis - Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home, USA

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Washington DC, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Invitation: Germany meets France - Baden, Burgundy, Pfalz, Alsace: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Tasting led by Annette Schiller on October 27, 2017

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace

Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

At Maison Trimbach in Alsace with Hubert Trimbach – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World

Chardonnay: Germany versus Chablis - Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home, USA

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Washington DC, USA

Picture: At Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A

The visit of Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, began with a visit of the vineyards, followed  by a visit of the winemaking facilities and a tasting; they were receiving and pressing the 2017 vintage fruit while we were there.

The visit ended on the roof of the newly constructed winemaking facilties, where we enjoyed a fabolous view of the neighbors of Château Cheval Blanc. The ultra modern architecture has now become a landmark in the sea of vineyards surrounding the château.

Château Cheval Blanc can trace back its roots to the 18th century. In the mid 19th century it was purchased by the Fourcaud-Laussac family who owned it until 1998. The tremendous success of the Cheval Blanc wines is due to the never ceasing efforts of the Fourcaud-Laussac family to pursue quality. The greatest achievement came in 1880 when Château Cheval Blanc was regarded as equal to the first growth in the Médoc. Subsequently prices for theier wines rose to the level of the wines of Latour, Margaux, Lafite, Haut-Brion.

Pictures: Arrivng at Château Cheval Blanc

When the Saint-Emilion classification was established in 1954, Cheval Blanc was awarded the Premier Grand Cr Classé A status, which it defended every time the classification was revisited. Today, the other 3 producers at that level are Château Angélus, Château Ausone, and Château Pavie.

Pictures: In the Vineyards at Château Cheval Blanc

In 1998, Bernard Arnault and Baron Albert Frère bought the estate. They injected a dynamic new spirit which is epitomizes by the construction of a new cellar. The ultra modern architecture has now become a landmark in the sea of vineyards surrounding the château.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Cheval Blanc

The vineyard is considered to have three qualities: one third Pomerol as it is located on the boundary, one third Graves as the soil is gravelly, and the remaining third typical Saint-Émilion. The vineyard area is spread over 41 hectares, with 37 hectares planted with an unusual composition of grape varieties of 57% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, and small parcels of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The average annual production is 6000 cases of the Grand vin and 2500 cases of the second wine, Le Petit Cheval.

Pictures: Vintage 2017 Harvest

Estate manager today is Pierre Lurton, a sibling of Henri Lurton, and Bérénice Lurton, whose wine estates we visited later during our tour.


Pictures: Tasting the 2011 Château Cheval Blanc Grand Vin

2011 Château Cheval Blanc Grand Vin - Sherry-Lehmann (NYC): US$850 plus tax

Wine Advocate-Parker (95): The 2011 Cheval Blanc is one of the more plump, opulent and sexy Cheval Blancs made over recent vintages, and its forwardness, lusciousness and complexity seemingly suggest this wine is on a fast evolutionary track. The wine exhibits a dense ruby/purple/plum color, a medium to full-bodied opulence, a sumptuous mid-palate (atypical for the vintage), and a lush, heady finish. It is a super, complex, evolved Cheval Blanc that can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years. Bravo!

Pictures: Relaxing on the Roof of Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A

Nocturnal Walking Tour through the Romantic, Spectacular Medieval Town of Saint-Emilion.

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante Appellation Pomerol, with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting at Château La Mothe du Barry in Moulon, Appellation Entre-deux-Mers, with
Owner/ Winemaker Joël Duffau

Tour and Tasting at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Première Grand Cru Classé

Lunch at 1 Michelin-starred Restaurant Claude Darroze

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Henri Lurton

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manger Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen 

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Picture: The Annual Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2017) USA, with Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton), Kinou Cazes-Hachemian (Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez) and Cécile Loqmane (Château Figeac), and Ed and Michael Sands (Calvert and Woodley)

Picture: Participants of Bordeaux Tours by ombiasy WineTours with Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2017 Fete du Bordeaux Dinner in Washington DC, USA

US Wine Retailer of the Year 2012, Ed Sands and his son Michael Sands put on again a fantastic evening with an amazing selection of ultra-premium Bordeaux wines and the food of Executive Chef Troy Knapp at the 2017 Fete du Bordeaux Dinner in downtown Washington DC, USA. This year's Fête de Bordeaux introduced the soon-to-be-released 2015 vintage, an excellent vintage in Bordeaux, but also featured wines from 2000, 2010 and others.

For more on Ed Sands: Calvert and Woodley’s Ed Sands 2012 Wine Retailer of the Year in the USA

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at the Park Hyatt Washington DC

3 Special Guests: Damien Barton-Sartorius, Kinou Cazes-Hachemian and Cécile Loqmane 

As usual, the Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley took place at the Park Hyatt in Washington DC - this year with 3 special guests:

Damien Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton

Pictures: Damien Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton

Damien Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton

Pictures: Kinou Cazes-Hachemian - Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez

Cécile Loqmane - Château Figeac

Pictures: Cécile Loqmane - Château Figeac

Menu

Pictures: The Annual Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2017) USA, with Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton), Kinou Cazes-Hachemian (Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez) and Cécile Loqmane (Château Figeac)

Champagne Reception

Pictures: The Annual Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2017) USA, with Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton), Kinou Cazes-Hachemian (Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez) and Cécile Loqmane (Château Figeac)

Hors d'Oeuvres and Champagne

Chef's Selection of Passed Hors d'Oeuvres
Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne


Dinner

Pictures: The Annual Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2017) USA, with Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton), Kinou Cazes-Hachemian (Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez) and Cécile Loqmane (Château Figeac)

First Course

Smoked Swordfish
Sea Island Red Peas, Tomato Confit, Candied Meyer Lemon


Blanc de Lynch-Bages 2016


Second Course

Oxtail Ravioli
Sea Asparagus, Crispy Leeks, Mushroom Consommé


Petit Figeac 2015
Château Figeac 2015
Château Mauvesin Barton 2015
Château Ormes de Pez 2015
Château Langoa Barton 2015
Château Lynch-Bages 2015
Château Léoville Barton 2015


Third Course

Suckling Pig
Smoked Sweet Potato, Pickled Persimmons, Bourbon Jus


Château Figeac 2010
Château Langoa Barton 2006
Château Lynch-Bages 2008


Fourth Course

Roasted Rack of Lamb
Parsnip Purée, Braised Kale, Pomegranate, Black Pepper Gastrique


Château Figeac 2006 (in magnum)
Château Lynch-Bages 2000
Château Léoville Barton 2006


Dessert

Triple Cream Panna Cotta
Caramelized Fig, Pistachio Sponge, Concord Grape Espuma


Château Suduiraut 2009


Coffee


Executive Chef Troy Knapp, Park Hyatt Washington DC and Blue Duck Tavern

Executive Chef Troy Knapp joined Park Hyatt Washington, D.C. in February 2017. Chef Knapp brings more than 20 years of experience to the hotel’s culinary program, and is focused on creating menus that celebrate local and seasonal ingredients. Prior to joining Park Hyatt Washington Chef Knapp served as the executive chef at the legendary hotel, The Driskill in Austin, Texas, for three years. Chef Knapp was previously the executive chef at Hyatt Westlake Plaza, Hyatt Regency Phoenix, as well as Hyatt Hill Country Resort & Spa in San Antonio. Troy has been with the Hyatt family since 1998 and was recognized as the company's “Chef of the Year” in 2008 and 2015.

He is a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and was an author of a wine column which was selected as one of the three "must read" blogs by San Antonio Magazine. Knapp also has a great appreciation for tea and has received a Level 2 certificate from the Specialty Tea Institute (STI).

Pictures: Executive Chef Troy Knapp and his Team

Named one of the finest restaurants in Washington, DC by Zagat, The Washington Post, and Washingtonian, Blue Duck Tavern features creative American cuisine crafted from the region’s seasonal ingredients. The centerpiece of the open restaurant is a wood-burning. Touches of dark oak, blue burlap, handcrafted furnishings and rustic wood tables create a warm atmosphere. The restaurant also features a private Chef’s Ttable seating up to 18 guests. Blue Duck Tavern has 1 star in the Michelin Guide.

Ombiasy WineTours

Annette Schiller visits Bordeaux once a year with a group of not more than 12 people on her ombiasy tour of Bordeaux. For the most recent Bordeaux Tour see: Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

During the past ombiasy tours to Bordeaux, we visited Château Figeac several times, the last time in 2016. See here: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

We visited Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez and met owner Jean-Charles Cazes on the ombiasy WineTours to Bordeaux in 2013. See here: Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages in Bages, Bordeaux, France

We have not yet visited Châteaux Léoville Barton and Langoa Barton but visited several times one of the two other Léoville châteaux, Château Leoville Poyferre.

Château Léoville-Barton and Château Langoa Barton

The Barton family, the current owners of Château Léoville-Barton and Château Langoa Barton, are able to trace their Bordeaux roots all the way back to 1722. That was the year that Thomas Barton left Ireland for Bordeaux. Like many successful owners, Barton started out as a Bordeaux negociant.

The first foray into ownership for the Barton family was in St. Estephe, with Chateau Le Boscq in 1745, which was awarded Cru Bourgeois status in 1932. In 1995, the Barton family sold it to Dourthe.

Pictures: With Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton) at the 2017 Fete du Bordeaux Dinner in downtown Washington DC, USA

Also in 1745, the Barton family partnered with another powerful Bordeaux family to form a Bordeaux wine negociant company, Barton and Guestier. It was controlled by the Barton family until the Seagram Group got control in 1986. Today, Barton and Guestier is part of the international wine and spirit company Diageo.

The next major purchase for the Barton family took place in 1821. That was the year they bought Chateau Langoa Barton. Following the purchase of Langoa Barton, they bought a second St. Julien estate: Culled from the vineyards of Château Leoville Las Cases, that estate became Chateau Leoville Barton, a deuxième cru en 1855. Interestingly, because no wine making facilities came with the purchase, they were forced to make the wines at Château Langoa Barton. Until today, production of both wines takes place at Langoa Barton.

When Ronald Barton, who had inherited the family’s property from his father, who was tragically killed in a hunting accident in the 1920's, died without an heir in 1986, his nephew Anthony took control of the family properties. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintains a home - to Bordeaux in 1951.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Lilian Barton-Sartorius at Ruth Chris Steakhouse in Washington DC. See: A Vertical Blind Tasting of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton plus the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton with Lilian Barton-Sartorius in Washington DC, USA

Château Léoville-Barton

Château Léoville-Barton is a Deuxième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

There are now 47 hectares of vineyards at Château Léoville-Barton, planted with 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no château at Léoville-Barton.

The grand vin is Château Léoville-Barton, the second wine is La Reserve de Léoville-Barton. Total production is 20.000 cases.

Pictures: Anthony Barton and Annette and Christian Schiller at a Previous Fête du Bordeaux

Château Langoa-Barton

Château Langoa-Barton is a Troisième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

Located along the banks of the Gironde river, Langoa-Barton has 15 hectares under vine: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.

About 7,000 cases of Château Langoa-Barton are produced.

In September, 2011, the Barton family purchased an additional Bordeaux estate, Château Mauvesin in Moulis.

Chateau Lynch Bages

Chateau Lynch Bages is a Fifth Growth in the village of Bages, just southwest of Pauillac. Jean-Charles Cazes was able to purchase Lynch Bages in 1939.

The vineyards total 90 hectares, with 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The white wine vineyard, planted on 6 hectares, is located to the west, with vines 20 years old on average, it’s composed of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 32% Semillon and 15% Muscadelle.

Lynch Bages produces 3 wines:

Chateau Lynch Bages, AOC Pauillac, 5th Grand Cru Classe, 25,000 cases.

Echo de Lynch Bages, AOC Pauillac, 10,000 cases, often a blend of 50 to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 to 30% Merlot and 15 to 20% Cabernet Franc.

Blanc de Lynch Bages, AOC Bordeaux Blanc 4,000 cases. They begun making white wine in 1990.

Chateau Ormes-de-Pez

Château Les Ormes-de-Pez is in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. In the 2003 listing that was later annulled, Château Les Ormes-de-Pez was classified as one of 9 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. It belongs to the group of six former Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel (Château Chasse Spleen, Château Les Ormes de Pez, Château de Pez, Château Potensac, Château Poujeaux and Château Siran) that have decided to remain outside the Cru Bourgeois Classification.

The vineyard area, divided into two blocks north and south of the village of Saint-Estèphe, extends over 33 hectares, with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. The annual production is 15,000 cases.

Ormes de Pez was purchased by Jean Charles Cazes in 1927.

Pictures: Jean-Charles Cazes and Annette and Schiller at a Previous Fête du Bordeaux

Château Lynch Bages and Château Ormes de Pez

Jean-Charles Cazes, the grandfather of the Jean-Charles we met, purchased Château Lynch Bages and Château Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe on the eve of the Second World War. Lynch Bages and Ormes de Pez have been run by the Cazes family ever since.

Until Jean-Charles Cazes took over in 2006, his father, Jean Michel Cazes, was at the helm of the family empire. He was a very influential personality in Bordeaux. Before returning to Pauillac in 1973 to take over the family's insurance and wine interests, Jean-Charles was for 10 years a manager, based in Paris.

In addition to the Cazes family wine interests, from 1987 to 2000, Jean-Michel Cazes developed AXA Millésimes, the wine properties department of the insurance company AXA. French insurance companies are required to invest in French property. Their assets in Bordeaux include Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Château Suduiraut, Cantenac Brown (recently sold) and Chateau Petit Village Abroad they own Quinta do Noval, a Port producer in the Douro Valley in Portugal, and the Tokay producing Disznókő estate in Hungary.

In 2006, after 33 years in charge of the Cazes family interests, Jean-Michel Cazes stepped down, handing over management of the family interests to his son Jean-Charles Cazes. Born in 1974, Jean Charles grew up at Lynch Bages, the last of four children, and the only son.

Jean-Charles Cazes assumed overall responsibility for management of the renowned Cazes family estates and winemaking operations, extending from Bordeaux to southern France and including joint ventures in Portugal and Australia, including the Bordeaux chateaux of Lynch-Bages, Ormes de Pez and Villa Bel-Air; the Michel Lynch brand of Bordeaux varietals; L'Ostal Cazes and the Circus line of wines from the Languedoc; a distribution company, JM Cazes-Selection; Xisto, a joint venture with the Roquette family in Portugal's Douro Valley; and Tapanappa, a joint venture in South Australia undertaken with the Bollinger family of Champagne fame and pioneering Australian winemaker, Brian Croser.

Jean-Michel Cazes continues to lead the wine and tourism division of the family’s activities, notably Château Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac converted into a hotel and a restaurant of two Michelin stars.

Pictures: In the Cellar of Château Lynch-Bages with Jean-Charles Cazes. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Lynch-Bages in Bages, Bordeaux, France

Château Figeac

Château de Figeac is one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B Châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Its prominent neighbor is Château Cheval Blanc. The vineyards of Château de Figeac border the Pomerol appellation vineyards and thus the vines grow on a very different terroir than the rest of the Saint-Emilion vines. The Figeac wines show a more “Left Bank” character than the rest of the Saint-Emilion wines.

Because of its fine gravel based soil (which is uncommon in the Right Bank), Merlot accounts only for 30 % of the plantings (which is very low by Saint Emilion standards). The Château Figeac Grand Vin is dominated (70%) by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in equal parts. Château Figeac is known as the most Médoc of the Saint Emilion chateaux.

Château Figeac is an old estate. It takes its name from a Roman called Figeacus who built a villa here. Today, one can still see a water-supply system dating from the Gallo-Roman period, foundations of buildings from the Middle Ages and defensive walls along with the remains of a Renaissance chateau incorporated into its structure.

Pictures: At Château Figeac with General Manger/ Technical Director Frédéric Faye. See: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Until the late 18th century, Château Figeac had been in the hands of one family for almost 500 years. With almost 200 hectares, Château Figeac was one of the largest wine estates at the time, but parts were sold and the estate was subdivided several times until 1892, when the Manoncourt family purchased Château Figeac. (A sizable chunk which was purchased by the Ducasse family in 1832 formed the nucleus of what would eventually become Cheval Blanc.)

For most of the past 70 years, Château Figeac was been associated with Thierry Manoncourt, who took over the management of the property in 1946, and his wife Marie-France; Thierry Manacourt passed away in 2010. It was under his leadership that Château Figeac rose to the front ranks of Saint-Émilion estates. In 1992, Thierry Manacourt divided the business between his 4 daughters, bestowing the larger share on his eldest daughter, Laure.

Château Figeac tends to harvest early with a view of retaining freshness. After Haut Brion and Latour, Château Figeac was the third estate in Bordeaux to introduce stainless steel tanks; there are now 20 temperature controlled vats, 10 in oak and 10 stainless steel. Since the mid-1970s, Figeac has been aged in 100% new oak. The time spent in new oak varies according to the vintage character. The 1997 vintage was aged 12 months, while the 2009 vintage saw new oak for 18 months.

The following wines are produced: Château Figeac (Saint-Emilion - Premier Grand Cru Classé B), La Grange-Neuve de Figeac (second wine) and Chateau Petit-Figeac (bought in 2002 as most of the vineyard was in the middle of their Château Figeac vineyard. The wine is now made at Château Figeac). In total, the Figeac estate amounts to 54 hectares of which 40 are planted with vines. Annual production is 10 000 cases.

The family also owns two other wineries: the nearby Château La Fleur-Pourret (4, 5 hectares, Château La Fleur Pourret was part of Château Figeac many years ago, also bought in 2002), and Château de Millery (just over 1 hectare), in the southern sector of St.-Emilion known as St.-Christophe des Bardes.

Pictures: At Château Figeac with Technical Director Frédéric Faye. See also: Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

For many years, Madame Manancourt's son-in-law, Comte Eric d'Aramon, was the DG of Château Figeac, but he was removed in 2013, when the Manoncourt family appointed Jean-Valmy Nicolas as Joint Managing Director and Frédéric Faye as Manager of Château Figeac.

Jean-Valmy Nicolas (a graduate of France’s HEC business school) is a co-owner of Chateau La Conseillante in Pomerol and a professional at an investment company in Paris.

Frédéric Faye (an engineering graduate of Bordeaux’s ENITA), has been at Château Figeac since 2002, when he began as Vineyard Manager before being promoted to the post of Technical Manager. He now has overall management of the vineyard and the wine-making, as well as the sales of the wines.

As part of these changes, in March 2013, Michel Rolland signed a consulting contract with Château Figeac, with the aim of bringing it up to Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Bye-bye

Again, an unforgettable Bordeaux Feast!

Pictures: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France 

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dining and Wining on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris: La Rotonde, Le Dôme and La Coupole, France – Pre-Bordeaux Wine Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuis - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting were it all Started: At the "Garage" of Jean-Luc Thunevin, Owner and Winermaker of Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 2012 - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch at the Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Restaurant La Grand’ Vigne (Chef: Nicolas Masse, 2 Stars Michelin) - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit of La Cité du Vin - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch were the Locals Eat: At Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Cos d’Estournel, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Managing Director Aymeric de Gironde - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux, Appellation Margaux, 1ière Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Picture: Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel  -  Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

The visit of Weingut Markus Molitor was a tasting only visit. While we were visiting Weingut Markus Molitor there were two other groups in the building, tasting in 3 different rooms.

One of them was a group headed by another German winemaking giant, Armin Diel of Schlossgut Diel. His group included the up-and-coming Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle, who has just started to export to the US through Schatzi-Wines.

Pictures: Running into the Armin Diel Group, with up-and-coming Winemaker Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle

Markus Molitor and Katharina Okfen hosted us. Markus Molitor had to share his time with us and the other two groups.

Haus Klosterberg

Built at the end of the 19th century as a winery, and acquired in 1984 by Markus Molitor, the estate has been restored to its former glory by extensive renovations between 2009 and 2012. With great affection for detail, using historical and modern materials, the estate with its new Vinothek is an architectural highlight among the wineries on the Mosel and has won several awards including the "Architekturpreis Wein 2013".

Pictures: Haus Klosterberg

Weingut Markus Molitor

Weingut Molitor is one of Germany's greatest wine producers. Markus Molitor took over the winery in 1984, at only 20 years of age. He represents the eighth generation of his centuries-old Mosel winemaking family. The estate is centered in the historic town of Bernkastel, with 37 hectares of spectacular vineyards spread across 15 classic sites from Bernkastel and Graach to Wehlen and Zeltingen. This is viticulture at its most extreme, with very old ungrafted vines (many 100 years old or more) planted on slopes as steep as 80% inclination. Needless to say all farming is by hand—it could not possibly be any other way. Interestingly, although the vast majority of vines are riesling, there are also small plantings (about 4 hectares) of pinot noir and pinot blanc—actually an ancient tradition in the Mosel, banned in 1930 but recently revived. The precious slate soil of the astonishingly steep West facing vineyards produces wines of great structure and depth, full of minerality, aromatic complexity, and fruity acidity.

Winemaking is staunchly traditional, with spontaneous fermentation initiated by ambient natural yeasts, no enzymes, and no fining—"a winemaking style of 100 years ago". The wines are primarily fermented and matured in big old oak casks, with a small portion fermented in stainless steel. Exquisitely old-fashioned late harvest wines are a specialty: often the trockenbeerenauslesen ferment for five years or more, with sugars of up to 780 g/L!

Pictures: The much talked about Mosel Bridge

Stuart Pigott - Herr 300 Points: Markus Molitor
(wine-searcher by Stuart Pigott, Thursday, 16-Apr-2015)

The Mosel winemaker with the magic touch has been derided by colleagues, but he's having the last laugh.

If Mosel winemaker Markus Molitor lacked self-confidence he would never have been able to turn Weingut Markus Molitor from one of hundreds of unknown family-owned wineries in this region into a cult producer. That task has required total commitment in the past 30 years because, back in the late 20th century, the Mosel and the Riesling grape were not nearly as cool as they are today. He bucked both those trends.

However, when Molitor talks about the global response to the 100-point scores The Wine Advocate gave three of his Riesling Ausleses from the Ürziger Würzgarten, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard sites this February, he still seems a little overwhelmed, just as his staff must have been following publication. "We need a call center to handle all the interest", he told Wine Searcher.

Molitor is what the Germans call an "Original", meaning someone who stands out from the crowd, yet is inconceivable outside the context of their home region. During the 1990s, while other Mosel winemakers were trying to outdo each other by making Rieslings that were sleeker and more elegant, he went full throttle for power, spice and minerals. He was never apologetic about that, which may be the reason some tensions remain between him and his Mosel colleagues to this day.

Back then his top Auslese, printed with ** or *** on the label, were already densely concentrated sweet wines with great freshness. Some critics derided him for being out of step with fashion, but those wines earned him his first major accolade. The 1999 edition of the Gault & Millau Wine Guide to Germany named him Rising Star of the Year and since then he hasn't looked back, much less put his feet up. Some observers call him a workaholic, others driven.

When it comes to his dry and "Feinherb" (medium-dry) Rieslings, these wines are also made in a powerful mold, with fuller body and less prominent acidity than many dry Rieslings. Fermentations take place in deep cellars and can last many months. Molitor's guiding principle there is that "the yeast is to the wine like mother's milk to a baby". This could rightly be described as old-fashioned Mosel winemaking, but you need to add Molitor's obsession with detail and willingness to always go the extra mile before this adequately describes his methods. He's a complex character who can be touchy if he feels someone isn't taking him seriously; then he can be very abrupt. Even this article may not please him.

Sommeliers around the world have not only taken notice, some of them seem to understand very well how the man and his wines tick. "Markus Molitor's success is neither a secret nor surprising," said Christopher Miller MS, the former chief sommelier of Spago Beverley Hills, LA. "His philosophy reads like a "wish/to-do list" of any serious winemaker in the world: organic vineyard practices, low yields, old vines, the best vineyard sites, native yeasts... What sets him stylistically – and perhaps qualitatively – apart is his deft use of extended yeast contact. That imbues his wines with a certain structural pithiness, adding an incomparable texture while retaining their vibrancy and purity. That balance is a fine line that only the most gifted can traverse."

Seeing red in the Mosel

Riesling represents more than 90 percent of Molitor's 65 hectares (160 acres) of vineyard, but he also makes a little Pinot Noir - or Spätburgunder, as it is called in Germany. He planted new Pinot Noir vines in the Mosel, which is often regarded by experts as one of the world's archetypal cool-climate wine regions; in the late-20th century most of them regarded the idea of serious red-wine production there as a bad joke. However, climate change resulted in the region warming considerably since then, and Molitor spotted an opportunity to make red wine. Many colleagues laughed at him but he dismissed them as backward looking and plowed on.

Pictures: Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel  -  Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

His current Pinot Noirs are amazingly rich and tannic, considering the northerly location. They are the result not only of the improved climate, but also low yields and Burgundian-style winemaking. Since the 2005 vintage they have stood up well in direct comparison to the wines of top Pinot Noir producers farther south in Germany, like the Pfalz's Friedrich Becker, Baden's Bernhard Huber, and some red Burgundies. The one criticism of them, mostly from American somms, is that they are quite oaky.

However, Riesling is almost a religion for Molitor, and those who know him agree. "He's absolutely pedantic" said Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate's taster for Germany since May 2014. "During the harvest his pickers examine every nobly rotten berry three to five times to decide if it is right for TBA, BA or Auslese ***. That's completely crazy, but the results taste crazy good."

Reinhardt seems as fazed as Molitor by the enormous response to his three 100-point scores. In Germany, and to a lesser degree elsewhere, some Riesling enthusiasts and collectors have criticized Reinhardt's ratings. "The 2013 Auslese wines from J.J. Prüm and Willi Schaefer were at least as good as Markus Molitor's 2013 Auslese, and Reinhardt's ratings are the result of personal preference," said one collector, who wished to remain anonymous.

"I am really happy that personal taste matters; everyone's own taste," Reinhardt answered the criticism philosophically. "I am not that academic in my approach to ratings. There is no right and no wrong. During a tasting there's just the wine and me."

Despite The Wine Advocate's recent scores, Molitor is an unlikely winemaker hero. He is neither a cosmopolitan sophisticate nor an empire-building megalomaniac. He doesn't even fit in the role of unknown genius who will never leave his home town. It is the quality of his wines, not his personal brand, that have placed him in the wine world's highest league.

The Tasting

The Colour Code

The bottles are colour coded according to the taste category of the wine. The dry wines have a white cap. The off-dry wines have a grey-green colour like slate. We do not use the term "semi-dry", as "feinherb" or "off-dry" is the historical term for this style of Mosel Riesling and provides a much better description of the flavour profile of the wines. The naturally sweet and botrytis wines have a gold cap. However, the use of a gold cap for the Molitor Rieslings is not based on any quality evaluation as might be the case with other Mosel wineries who offer gold cap, long gold cap or extra-long gold cap wines.

In addition, Markus Molitor uses a star system to delineate between his ‘regular’ and ‘reserve’ bottlings from his prestigious sites.

The Wines we Tasted

Riesling weisse Kapsel - trocken

2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Schiefersteil
2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Alte Reben Mosel
2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Saarburger Rausch Spätlese
2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese


2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese**
2009 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese**


2010 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese**
2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese**


Riesling grüne Kapsel - feinherb

2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Alte Reben
2015 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Schiefersteil


2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Wehlener Klosterberg Spätlese
2003 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Wehlener Klosterberg Spätlese (Edition 9)


Riesling goldene Kapsel - fruchtsüss

2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese
2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese**


 2010 Weingut Markus Molitor Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese***


Pinot Noir - Spätburgunder trocken

2010 Weingut Markus Molitor Spätburgunder Brauneberger Klostergarten**
2014 Weingut Markus Molitor Spätburgunder Brauneberger Klostergarten***

“Try the most "simple" Pinot Noir Molitor is bottling and you are already in the upper class of German Pinot Noir. His three starred Pinots are mind-blowing and can compete with prestigious Grands Crus from Burgundy. ... The three stared Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir *** appears as a true grand cru on the nose pairing intensity with a remarkable high level of finesse. It is from the same cordon parcels as the two-star Pinot, but from vines that were even more reduced than the ** wine."– Stephan Reinhardt, eRobertParker.com

The cultivation of red wine on the Mosel was prohibited by law in the 1930s. Before that, large areas of the Mosel winegrowing region were covered with Pinot Noir! It was only in the 1980’s that producers were allowed to plant red grapes again. Markus was right there when the law came off the books. He planted Pinot, his contemporaries laughed.


Bye-bye

Thanks Markus Molitor for a Great Tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk at Weingut Fritz Haag (VDP) in Brauneberg, Mosel, with Oliver Haag

Dinner at the 2 Michelin star restaurant Schanz in Piesport, Mosel

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Visit and tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus (VDP) in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, Mosel, with Dr. Carl von Schubert 

Visit and tasting at Weingut von Hövel (VDP) in Oberemmel, Saar, Mosel, with Max von Kunow

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber (VDP) in Monzingen, Nahe, with Frank Schönleber

Wine-pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the wines of Weingut Hexamer.

Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker, in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker

Lunch at Gutsausschank-Ristorante Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

Annette Schiller, member of the AWS, led 3 well-attended tastings focusing on the wines of Germany, Bourgogne and Alsace. Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines from VDP producers (the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) at the Showcase of Wines walk-around tasting.

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference took place on Thursday, November 2 to Saturday, November 4, 2017, at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania.

Close to 800 AWS members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations. Prominent winemakers included: Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and Frederick, Meaghan and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars.

Picture: Arriving at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

Thursday was the day of wine judging. There were full-day courses for those who want to become a certified AWS Wine Judge. This is a 3-year program. Also, the Amateur and Commercial Wine Competitions took place on Thursday.

Pictures: Delivering the Wines for Annette's Tastings at the Storage Room

Friday and Saturday was filled with about 50 wine seminars, led by winery owners, wine educators, and renowned winemakers. The breakfasts, lunches, dinners and after-dinner gatherings provided ample opportunities to network with other AWS members.

There was a pre-conference trip, in which Annette and I did not participate.

Postings on schiller-wine

This is the first in a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2017 at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania:

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

VDP at AWS: Tasting Premium German Wines at the Showcase of Wines of the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, with Annette and Christian Schiller

German Wines in the 21st Century - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

Burgundy: What makes it so special? - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

For last year's conference in California, see:

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens
The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller
The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Conducting a Seminar at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

Pictures: The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

The American Wine Society

The American Wine Society was founded in 1967 as a non-profit, educational, consumer-oriented organization for those interested in learning more about all aspects of wine. On October 7, 1967, around 200 grape growers, home winemakers, and wine lovers gathered at Dr. Konstantin Frank’s vineyard on Keuka Lake near Hammondsport, NY for the AWS’ initial meeting.

In December of the same year, the thirteen charter members, led by Founder Dr. Konstantin Frank, met to determine the organization structure of AWS and elect officers. Now in its 49th year, the American Wine Society is the largest consumer based wine education organization in North America. Membership is open to anyone interested in wine and over 21 years of age.

In the early days, AWS members were located primarily in the eastern part of the country. As the society grew , we established chapters throughout the eastern U.S., then into the south and Midwest, and finally into western states. Today, the American Wine Society has over 7,000 members in 45 states and 120 chapters across the U.S.

Each November the Society hosts a three-day national conference with two full days of educational seminars. Winery owners, wine educators, and renowned winemakers are selected to present sessions during this national event. In addition, a program educating members to become AWS certified wine judges is conducted on the day preceding the seminars.

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference

Thursday, November 2

7:00 am to 5:00 pm: Wine Judge Certification Programs Year 1 + 2 + 3

7:00 pm to 9:00 pm: 50th Anniversary Reception

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with  Frederick and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and David Falchek, Executive Director of the American Wine Society

9:00 pm to 10:30 pm: 50th Anniversary Celebration Dinner sponsored by Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller, Marlene RedDoor, Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, Frederick, Meaghan and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars

10:30 pm to 12:00 pm: Hospitality Suite

Pictures: More Wine

Friday, November 3

7:30 am to 8:45 pm: Sparkling Wine Breakfast

8:45 am to 6:00 pm: Exhibits

One of the about 15 booths was Annette Schiller's ombiasyPR & WineTours booth, where Annette presented her 2018 wine tours to Germany (East, South, North) and France (Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Rhone).

Pictures: The Booth of ombiasyPR & WineTours with Annette Schiller

9:00 am to 10:15 am 7 Morning Sessions (A)

A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace (A4)

Presenter: Annette Schiller, Owner, Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

Alsace, where the vineyards are concentrated in a narrow strip between the Vosges Mountains in the west and the Rhine River in the east, is one of the most picturesque wineregion on the planet. As we travel from south to north along the Alsatian wine trail we learn about the appellations, the predominant grape varietals, the many different terroirs, and the history. History has an important influence on the style of the Alsatian wines, since nationality has passed from Germany to France and vice versa several times throughout the centuries, and each country left its mark.

Annette poured 6 wines.

2014 Crément d’Alsace, Bru Natur, Dirler-Cadé
2015 Muscat, Zind-Humbrecht
2015 Gentil, Hugel&Fils
2009 Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile, Maison Trimbach
2013 Pinot Gris Réserve, Maison Trimbach
2010 Gewürztraminer Grosse Laüe, Hugel&Fils

120 people attended Annette's seminar. 160 people had signed up but attendace had to be limited to 120 people because of the number of bottles available for pouring.

Annette Schiller: I could not have held the seminar without the generous support of my wine sponsors. I thank all of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. The sponsors:

Domaine Dirler-Cadé:
- 2014 Crémant d’Alsace, Brut Natur
Hugel & Fils:
- 2015 Gentil
- 2010 Gewürztraminer, Grossi Laüe
Maison Trimbach:
- 2013 Pinot Gris « Réserve »
- 2009 Riesling « Cuvée Frédéric Emile »
Kobrand Wine & Spirits, New York:
- 2015 Muscat, Zind-Humbrecht

Pictures: A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace

11:00 am to 12:15 pm 7 Morning Sessions (B)

12:30 pm to 2:15 pm: Luncheon & Business Meeting sponsored by Kobrand Wine & Spirits

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Tony Lawrence (Conference Menu) and Michael Broadbent, Broadbent Selections

2:30 pm to 3:45 pm 7 Afternoon Sessions (C)

German Wines in the 21st Century (C5)

Presenter: Annette Schiller, Owner, Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

This presentation showed the shift from sweet to dry white wines, and from white to red wines due to climate change, and the profound knowledge of the new generation of vineyard managers and cellar masters. Another shift can be observed in determining the quality of the wine, from sugar content at point of harvest to the terroir principle. Since 2012 the VDP (Association of Premium German Wine Estates) has implemented a four-tier system that is based on the principle that the vineyard site is the quality criterion. The goal is to enhance the value of Germany’s finest vineyard sites as an integral part of a unique viticultural landscape.

Annette poured 6 wines.

RED

2013 Pinot Noir, Gutswein, August Kessler, Rheingau
2016 Lemberger, Bunter Mergel, Gutswein, Karl Haidle, Württemberg

WHITE

2015 Riesling, Gutswein, von Hövel, Mosel
2016 Silvaner, Escherndorfer Lump, Ortswein, Horst Sauer, Franken
2015 Grauburgunder, Ihriger Winkelberg, 1. Lage, Dr. Heger, Baden
2014 Weissburgunder, Hohe Gräte, Grosse Lage, GG, Lützkendorf, Saale-Unstrut

90 people attended Annette's seminar, including  Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and Frederick and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars.

Annette Schiller: I could not have held the seminar without the generous support of my wine sponsors. I thank all of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. The sponsors:

Weingut Horst Sauer:
- 2016 Silvaner, Escherndorfer Lump
Weingut Lützkendorf:
- 2014 Weissburgunder, Hohe Gräte, Grosses Gewächs
Weingut August Kesseler:
- 2013 Pinot Noir
Schatzi Wines Import, New York:
- 2016 Lemberger, Bunter Mergel, Weingut Karl Haidle
- 2015 Riesling, Saar, Weingut von Hövel
- 2015 Grauburgunder, Ihringer Winkelberg, Erste Lage, Weingut Dr. Heger

Pictures: German Wines in the 21st Century, with Annette Schiller and Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, and Frederick and Maryclaire Frank, Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, among the Participants

7:30 pm to 9:30 pm: Showcase of Wines

The AWS had invited the guests to dress up in the 1960s, flower power style. There were about 40 tables.

VDP - Wines of Germany Table (Annette and Christian Schiller)

Annette and Christian Schiller presented 5 German wines, 4 whites and 1 red wine. All wines were from VDP producers, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany:

2015 Weingut Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Baden
2015 Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedricher Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Grünhäuser Riesling trocken

Annette and Christian Schiller: We could not have poured the German wines without the generous support of 2 wine sponsors. We thank both of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. We also would like to thank the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers. The sponsors:

Esprit du Vin Fine Wine Merchants:
- 2015 Weingut Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Baden
Loosen Bros. USA Import:
- 2015 Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedricher Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Grünhäuser Riesling trocken

Pictures: The VDP Booth of Annette and Christian Schiller, with Diane Meyer, Conference Chairperson, Joel Peterson, the Godfather of Zinfandel and Founder of Ravenswood Winery, Paul Wagner, Founder, Balzac Communications&Marketing, and David Falchek, Executive Director of the American Wine Society

10:00 pm to 12:00 pm: Hospitality Suite

Pictures: More Wine

Saturday, November 4

7:30 am to 8:45 pm: Breakfast and AWSEF Annual Meeting

8:45 am to 6:00 pm: Exhibits

Pictures: The ombiasyPR & WineTours Booth

9:00am to 10:15am 7 Morning Sessions (D)

11:00am to 12:15pm 7 Morning Sessions (E)

Burgundy: What makes it so special? (E2)

Presenter: Annette Schiller, Owner, Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

Burgundy is one of the world’s best-known wine regions, but perhaps one of the least understood. Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin with a specific vineyard or region bearing a given classification, regardless of the owner or producer. This presentation will explore the five core appellations, the importance of history for wine making in Burgundy, and the superior position of the Grand Cru white and red wines of Burgundy in the world of wine.

Annette poured 6 wines.

WHITE

2015 Chablis, Saint Claire, Jean-Marc Brocard
2015 Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais, Joseph Drouhin

RED

2013 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir, Maison Roche de Bellene
2015 Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise, Domaine Faiveley
2013 Volnay, Côte de Beaune, Nicolas Rossignol
2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune, Nicolas Rossignol

120 people attended Annette's seminar. 180 people had signed up but attendace had to be limited to 120 people because of the number of bottles available for pouring.

Annette Schiller: I could not have held the seminar without the generous support of my wine sponsors. I thank all of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. The sponsors:

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard:
- 2015 Chablis, Saint Claire
Maison Joseph Drouhin:
- 2015 Pouilly Vinzelles, Mâconnais
Loosen Bros. USA Import:
- 2013 Coteaux Bourguignons, Cuvée Terroir, Maison Roche de Bellene
Domaine Faiveley:
- 2015 Mercurey, La Framboisière, Côte Chalonnaise
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol:
- 2013 Volnay, Côte de Beaune
- 2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Chevret, Côte de Beaune

Pictures: Burgundy: What makes it so special?

12:30 pm to 2:30 pm: Awards Luncheon

Pictures: Awards Luncheon

2:30 pm to 3:45pm 7 Afternoon Sessions (F)

4:30 pm to 5:45 pm 7 Afternoon Sessions (G)

7:30 pm to 9:30 pm: Grand Banquet

For the Grand Banquet, people also brought their own wines. We brought, inter alia, some left-overs from Annette's Burgundy seminar, including the 2013 Volnay, 1er Cru, Côte de Beaune, Nicolas Rossignol. At their neighboring table they were pouring a 1987 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon from Magnum.

Pictures: Grand Banquet

10:00 pm to 12:00 pm: Music, Dancing and Hospitality Suite

Pictures: More Wine

10:00 pm to 12:00 pm: After-Parties in Private Suites

There were also after-parties in private suites. We were invited to the one by the Las Vegas AWS Chapter.

Pictures: The Las Vegas Suite

Next Year: Buffalo New York State

The 2018 American Wine Society National Conference will take place in Buffalo, New York State.

Picture: Next Year: Buffalo New York

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

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Picture: Chef Armin Röttele and his Wife Sophie, Röttele's Restaurant & Residenz, Schloss Neuweier

The first stop of the Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours, which took place from October 1 to 8, 2017, was at the impressive Schloss Neuweier in the small village of Neuweier in Baden, close to the spa-town Baden Baden.

See here for an overview of the whole tour: Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

At Weingut Schloss Neuweier, we had a wine luncheon at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Röttele's Restaurant & Residenz of Chef Armin Röttele and his wife Sophie, with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker of Weingut Schloss Neuweier.

Before the luncheon, Robert showed us around in the vineyards and the cellar. We were there right in the middle of the harvest. This posting focuses on the luncheon at Röttele's Restaurant. I have already reported on the initial part of the visit, i.e. the vineyard and cellar tour plus the wine tasting with Robert, here:

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and the Wines of Weingut Schloss Neuweier

We had a wonderful wine-pairing lunch with the world class food of Chef Armin Röttele and the world class wines of Winemaker Robert Schätzle.


NV Weingut Schloss Neuweier Sekt Brut


Kleine Köstlichkeiten aus der Schlossküche
Small apetizers


Krustentierravioli mit glasierter Jacobsmuschel auf blauer Blumenkohlcreme und Kräuterschmelze
Shellfish Ravioli with glazed scallops, blue cauliflower cream and herbs


2015 Weingut Schloss Neuweier Mauerwein Grosse Lage GG


Kalbsfilet auf einem Ragout von Ochsenbäckchen mit Cremolata und cremigem Safranrisotto
Veal filet with and veal ragout with Cremolata on a creamy saffron Risotto


2015 Weingut Schloss Neuweier Pinot Noir R trocken Erste Lage


Limonentartelette mit Baiser und Zitronengeist auf Zitrusfrüchten und Ingwercreme Eis
Lime tartlet with Baiser and lemon Brandy, citrus fruits and ginger ice cream


2015 Weingut Schloss Neuweier Mauerberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese


Süsse Sommerüberraschung
Sweet Summer Surprise


Schloss Neuweier

(1) Röttele's Restaurant and Weingut Schloss Neuweier are both part of the wonderfully restored, historic castle Schloss Neuweier, where wine has been made for centuries.

(2) The castle belongs to the few historic buildings from the 12th century that still exist.

Pictures: Arriving

(3) Die Ritter von Bach were the first who started planting vines and producing wine. All subsequent owners showed interested in winemaking.

(4) Its current shape took the castle, when it was owned by Philipp Kämmerer von Worms, called von Dalberg. During 1548 to 1549, this gentleman created the castle as you can see it today. To remind everyone of his creation he put in the entry portal: Zeyt bryngt Rosen – Time brings Roses.

(5) In 1615, the castle was passed onto the second daughter of Philipp von Dalberg, whose husband was Wolf von Eltz and Knebel von Katzenellenbogen. Katzenellenbogen was a high ranking knight who fought under the rule of the Archbishop of Mainz. He also was an important person in terms of winemaking at Weingut Schloss Neuweier. He brought his knowledge from the Franken area, the Bocksbeutel bottles and the Niersteiner and the Laubenheimer grape varities, which replaced the traditional Elblinger and Ortlieber.

Pictures: Wine-pairing Lunch

(6) During the 19th century the castle changed its owners quiet frequently. From 1869, the Rößler family from Baden-Baden became the owner of the castle. The Rößler family is responsible for the Mauerberg vineyard gaining international recognition.

(7) Until a few years ago, the driving force behind Schloss Neuweier, including Weingut Schloss Neuweier, was Gisela Joos. She and her husband, a well-known architect from Frankfurt am Main, took over the castle, including the winery, in 1992 and invested around Euro 50 million in the castle, including the winery. What you see today is essentially due to their efforts and money. In 1999, Weingut Neuweier was admitted to the prestigious VDP association, when Gisela Joos was in charge.

(8) Today, the “Schlossherr” (owner) of Schloss Neuweier and the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Neuweier is Robert Schaetzle. His family acquired the estate in 2012. The senior management of the winery of course changed with Robert taking over. The already high quality level of the wines was definitely maintained if not increased by Robert Schaetzle. The Joos family is still living in the castle, but on a lease basis.

Röttele’s Restaurant and Residence at Schloss Neuweier

During the period when the Rössler family owned Schloss Neuweier, a “Besenwirtschaft” (basic wine tavern, where the winemaker sells his own wine) was opened at Schloss Neuweier. Over time, that basic tavern developed into a fine dining restaurant.

Armin and Sabine Röttele took over in 2005. A year later, Armin was awarded a Michelin star. Today, Röttele’s Restaurant at Schloss Neuweier is one of the best restaurants in Germany.

Pictures: Chef Armin Röttele

Sue Style: Expect deliciously pronounced southern accents (the chef spent years in Switzerland’s Tessin before returning here to his roots), intense flavors and colors, silken home-made soups and pastas, toothsome vegetables, locally raised meat and game.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Chef Armin Röttele

Robert Schätzle: We were very lucky that in the year 2005 the family Röttele took on the restaurant on the ground floor of the castle. Mr. Röttele is a very inspiring and inventive Chef whose creations leaves your mouth watering. Mr. Röttele’s talent was internationally recognized so it was not surprise that he gained 1 Star from the Michelin in 2006.

Bye-bye

Thanks Armin, Sophie and Robert for a wonderful luncheon.

Pictures: Bye-bye

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine tasting concert with the A-Capella Ensemble “Männer und Tenöre” at Weingut Aufricht in Meersburg – Stetten, with Manfred and Hildegard Aufricht

The Lake Wines of the Aufricht Brothers: From Lake Constance in Germany

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markgraf von Baden in Salem, Baden

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Löffler in Wettenberg, Markgräfler Land, Baden, with Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler Family and Founder Wolfgang Löffler 

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stigler in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Andreas and Maximilian Stigler

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace

Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen, Pfalz, with Johannes Jülg

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Picture: Konstantin Guntrum, Weingut Louis Gutrum, the #1 in the Noble-sweet Riesling Category. We visited him Recently on the Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

The Best of Riesling Competion 2017 took place earlier this year in Neustadt an der Weinstrasse in the Pfalz Region in Germany. The annual Best of Riesling competition is organized by the Meininger Verlag. This year, more than 2400 Rieslings entered the competition, with German Rieslings accounting for 97% of the wines. Thus, essentially, it was a Best of German Riesling competition. This was the 12. Best of Riesling competition.

Best of Riesling Competition 2017

Here were 8 categories this year.

Kategorie I Riesling trocken mit moderatem Alkoholgehalt (bis 12 vol.%) - Dry Riesling with Moderate Alcohol Level

1. Platz 2016 Riesling trocken VDP.GUTSWEIN
Weingut Zur Schwane, Volkach (Franken)

2. Platz 2016 Riesling vom Grauen Schiefer trocken
Leo Fuchs Inh. Ulrich Fuchs, Pommern (Mosel)

3. Platz 2016 EINFACH KEUPER Riesling trocken
Weingut Markus Meier, Ulsenheim (Franken)

Picture: In the Old Cellar of Weingut Zur Schwane in Franken with General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch. See also: Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken, with General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Kategorie II Lagen-Riesling trocken mit moderatem Alkoholgehalt (bis 12 vol.%)- Single Vineyard Dry Riesling with Moderate Alcohol Level

1. Platz 2015 Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Spätlese trocken
Weingut Krug‘scher Hof, Gau-Odernheim (Rheinhessen)

2. Platz 2016 Riesling Hochgewächs Ayler Kupp trocken
Margarethenhof Weingut Weber, Ayl/Saar (Mosel)

3. Platz 2016 Hochheimer Stielweg Riesling Spätlese trocken
Weingut Himmel, Hochheim (Rheingau)

Kategorie III Riesling trocken - Dry Riesling

1. Platz 2016 Dorsheim Riesling trocken
Weingut Joh. Bapt. Schäfer, Burg Layen (Nahe)

2. Platz 2016 anetteclosheim Riesling trocken "Mit Freunden"
Weingut Closheim, Langenlonsheim (Nahe)

3. Platz 2016 Zellertal Riesling trocken
Weingut Schwedhelm, Zellertal (Pfalz)

Kategorie IV Lagen-Riesling trocken - Single Vineyard Dry Riesling

1. Platz 2015 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Riesling trocken
Weingut Ernst & Mario Zelt, Laumersheim (Pfalz)

2. Platz 2015 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling trocken
Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl, Deidesheim (Pfalz)

3. Platz 2015 Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" GG VDP.GROSSE LAGE
Weingut Müller-Catoir, Neustadt-Haardt (Pfalz)

Picture: At Weingut Müller Catoir. See also: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Kategorie V Riesling halbtrocken/feinherb - Off-dry Riesling

1. Platz 2016 Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett VDP.GUTSWEIN
Weingut Gunderloch, Nackenheim (Rheinhessen)

2. Platz 2015 Riesling "SL" Großheppacher Steingrüble
Weingut Bernhard Ellwanger, Weinstadt (Württemberg)

3. Platz 2015 Rüdesheimer Drachenstein Riesling Spätlese feinherb Vom Quarzit
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau)

Picture: Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim with the Late Fritz Hasselbach. See also: Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Kategorie VI Riesling restsüß - Fruity-sweet Riesling

1. Platz 2016 Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese
Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Deidesheim (Pfalz)

2. Platz 2016 Pommerner Zeisel Riesling Spätlese
Leo Fuchs Inh. Ulrich Fuchs, Pommern (Mosel)

3. Platz 2016 Kreuznacher Forst Riesling Spätlese
Weingut Emrich-Montigny, Bad Kreuznach (Nahe)

3. Platz 2015 Erbacher Hohenrain Riesling Spätlese
Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen, Erbach-Eltville (Rheingau)

Picture: Tasting Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck. See also: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Kategorie VII Riesling edelsüß - Noble-sweet Riesling

1. Platz 2015 Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
Louis Guntrum, Nierstein (Rheinhessen)

2. Platz 2015 Würzburger Stein Riesling Beerenauslese VDP.ERSTE LAGE
Weingut Juliusspital, Würzburg (Franken)

3. Platz 2015 Hochheimer Königin Victoriaberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
Weingut Joachim Flick, Flörsheim (Rheingau)

Picture: At Weingut Juliusspital. See also: Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kategorie VIII Riesling gereift (Jahrgang 2009 und älter) - Aged Riesling (Vintage 2009 and older)

1. Platz 2004 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese
Weingut Nick Köwerich, Leiwen (Mosel)

2. Platz 2005 Bopparder Hamm Mandelstein Riesling Beerenauslese
Weingut Matthias Müller, Spay (Mittelrhein)

3. Platz 2008 Riesling Sonnenberg trocken
Weinhof Scheu, Schweigen-Rechtenbach (Pfalz)

Picture: Johannes and Matthias Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein. See also: Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Sonderauszeichnungen - Special Awards

Bester europäischer Riesling trocken - Best European Dry Riesling

2014 Riesling Saering Grand Cru
Domaines Schlumberger, Guebwiller (Elsass, Frankreich)

Picture: Thomas Schlumberger and Christian Schiller at Bistro Lepic, Washington DC. See also: Thomas Schlumberger, Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace, presented his Wines at Bistro Lepic in Washington DC, USA, France

Bester Riesling trocken aus der Steillage - Best Dry Riesling from Steep Vineyards

2015 Riesling trocken Escherndorfer Lump Himmelsleiter Grosses Gewächs
Weingut Brennfleck, Sulzfeld (Franken)

Bester Riesling im LEH - Best Riesling in Supermarkets

2016 Edition Abtei Himmerod Riesling trocken aus der Steillage
Les Grands Chais de France, Petersbach

Bestes Rieslingsortiment - Best Riesling Portfolio

1. Platz Weingut Theo Minges, Flemlingen (Pfalz)
2. Platz Weingut Albert Kallfelz, Zell-Merl (Mosel)
3. Platz Weingut Braunewell, Essenheim (Rheinhessen)

Previous Years Winners

For the winners of previous years, see:

best of riesling Competition 2016 (Meininger Verlag, Germany)
best of riesling 2015, Germany
best of riesling Competition 2014: The Winners, Germany
best of riesling Competition, 2013, Germany
Best of Riesling 2012 - The Winners, Germany
Best of Riesling Awards 2010

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken, with General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken, with General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Weingut Müller Catoir. See also: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

 Wine Tasting at Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, with Owners and Winemaker Fritz Hasselbach and Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan in Deidesheim with General Manager Gunther Hauck– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

 Thomas Schlumberger, Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace, presented his Wines at Bistro Lepic in Washington DC, USA, France

Picture: Christian Schiller and General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux, Château La Conseillante

Château La Conseillante is one of the estates belonging to the upper echelon of Pomerol. We spent some time in the vineyard before touring the new vat cellar. The visit ended with a tasting.

General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux was our host.

Pictures: Château La Conseillante

History

The beginnings of Château La Conseillante go back to the mid 18th century. Madame Catherine Conseillan was owner and in charge of the estate and gave it its name. She had no heirs and the estate passed to relatives, was sold and bought a couple times and finally found its masters in the Nicolas family. It was Louis Nicolas, owner of a négociant business in Libourne, who purchased Château La Conseillante in 1871. Since then it has been continuously passed on to the next generation of the family and today the 5th generation is at the helm.

Today, it is the turn of the fifth generation of the Nicolas to manage the estate. Bertrand Nicolas and Jean-Valmy Nicolas are the joint managing directors of La Conseillante. Marielle Cazaux is the estate manager. Château La Conseillante is a member of the Union des Grands Crus.

In 2007, Château La Conseillante launched its Second Wine “Duo de Conseillante”. Made with fruit from younger vines, “Duo” nevertheless expresses all the complexity and elegance of this great Pomerol terroir with its hints of liquorice, violets and red berry fruit.

Pictures: Welcome

Vineyard

La Conseillante's 13 hectares of vineyards are located on a plateau in eastern Pomerol on the boundary with the St-Emilion appellation. Its vineyards border those of L`Evangile, Petit-Village, Vieux Château-Certan and Cheval Blanc. This estate is relatively small – but typical for the right bank – compared with the châteaux on the left bank.

The vineyard, predominantly clay soil, is made up of 80% Merlot, which gives round, full and smooth wines. The remaining 20% is Cabernet Franc, planted in gravel soils, which brings structure and freshness to the blend. “Reasoned” environmentally-aware vine growing methods are applied.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux, Château La Conseillante

Cellar

A major renovation was completed in 2012 and temperature-controlled concrete tanks installed. The new vat cellar enables an individual, tailor-made vinification of the 18 vineyard plots that cover the estate's 12 hectares. The wine is then aged in small oak casks (90% new) for 18-20 months. It is bottled unfiltered.

Pictures: In the Cellar with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux, Château La Conseillante

Team

In 2015 a new director came on board, Marielle Cazaux, who studied enology at Bordeaux and was the director at neighboring Chateau Petit-Village before joining the team at La Conseillante.

Bertrand Nicolas, Jean-Valmy Nicolas and Henri Nicolas own the estate.

Michel Rolland joined the La Conseillante team as a consultant in 2013.

Pictures: Tasting with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux, Château La Conseillante

Tasting

2015 Château La Conseillante

wine-searcher average price: US$165

The 2015 La Conseillante, a blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, is extraordinarily pure and elegant on the nose. Here, I find a little more red fruit than black fruit, extremely elegant and articulating the terroir with great clarity. At first, wild strawberry and cranberry, then crushed stone, a touch of black truffle and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and elegant with fine tannin on the entry. This is one of the most approachable La Conseillante wines that I have tasted in barrel, the acidity very well judged, 'classic' in style, good backbone here with a structured finish. It does not quite possess the bravura of the 2010 La Conseillante and I would agree with winemaker Marielle Cazaux that it bears more semblances to the 2005 La Conseillante at this stage, and even bore common traits with its neighbour, Vieux Château Certan. This is an intellectual and to put it prosaically, 'delicious' La Conseillante. (NM) (4/2016)

Picture: 2015 and 2016 La Conseillante

2016 Château La Conseillante

wine searcher average price: US$2013

96-98 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2016 La Conseillante is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc picked from 22 September to 13 October and 12-17 October at 39.5 hectoliters per hectare. Winemaker Marielle Cazaux told me that there is 13.8% alcohol, nearly one degree less than in 2015, with a pH of 3.65 and it is matured in 70% new oak. This has a succinct bouquet that is stylistically not that far removed from its neighbor Vieux Château Certan: detailed and understated at first with scents of blackberry, wild hedgerow and a touch of pressed flowers. The palate is very well balanced with a fine backbone, but what really marks out this La Conseillante is the salinity that comes through on the second half. It exerts a gentle grip in the mouth, reveals a little spiciness towards the finish whereupon it gently fans out, leaving a touch of black pepper on the saline aftertaste. This is a classic La Conseillante and the best since the majestic 2010. Similar to that vintage, it will require several years in bottle, but it will be well worth the wait. (NM) (4/2017)

Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol

Owner: SC des Héritiers Nicolas
Managing Directors: Dr Bertrand Nicolas and Jean-Valmy Nicolas
Estate Manager: Marielle Cazaux
Consultant: Michel Rolland

Soil composition: 60% grey clay and 40% sandy gravel over a sub-soil of red clay containing iron deposit (crasse de fer)
Grape types: 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc
Pruning: Double Guyot
Density of plantation: 7,000 vines per hectare on average
Yield: 35 to 40 hectolitres per hectare
Average age of vines: 34 years
Harvesting: By hand, in small crates
Sorting: By hand and machine on 4 tables
Vinification: Pre-fermentation cold soak for 2 to 4 days. Vatting period: 2 to 4 weeks
Vats: 22 epoxy-lined concrete vats. Fully temperature-controlled
Selection: Vertical wine press and separate ageing of press wines
Ageing: 50% to 80% in new French oak barrels
Duration: 18 months
Racking: Every 3 months, using a traditional bellow pump
Fining: In barrel, 2 to 3 fresh egg whites per barrel

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Tour and Tasting at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Grave - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Bio in Bordeaux: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Winepairing Lunch at Chateau Beauséjour and Château Langais, AOC Puisseguin-St.Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuy - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Château Cheval Blanc, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé A - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante Appellation Pomerol, with General Manager/ Winemaker Marielle Cazaux

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting at Château La Mothe du Barry in Moulon, Appellation Entre-deux-Mers, with
Owner/ Winemaker Joël Duffau

Tour and Tasting at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauterne, Première Grand Cru Classé

Lunch at 1 Michelin-starred Restaurant Claude Darroze

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bordeaux)

Visiting an Oyster Farm at Arcachon Bay, Bordeaux: Raphael Doerfler at Earl Ostrea Chanca - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tour and Tasting at Château Brane-Cantenac, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Henri Lurton

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Natalie Schyler - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit and Tasting at Château Poujeaux, Appellation Moulis-en-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, with Winemaker Christophe Labenne

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil, with General Manager Simon Grelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Michel Tesseron – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Montrose, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner at Château Le Reysse, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc, with Owner/ Winemaker Stefan Paeffgen 

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Didier and Anne Cuvelier - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron with Chef à Domicile Bernadet Damien - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Lunch at Château Malartic-Lagravière, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

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Pictures: Christian Schiller at the New Maxwell Park Wine Bar in Washington DC, USA

This is a list of my favorite wine bars in the Washington DC greater area.

Washington DC is the center of the Washington DC greater area. Most people live either on the Maryland side of the Potomac River or on the Virginia side. I live in McLean in Virginia. My selection of wine bars is naturally biased by my home base.

America has a bar culture. Many restaurants therefore have a nice bar area with often an amazing selection of wines by the glass. Thus, I have divided my list into 2 groups: (1) wine bars and (2) restaurants with good wine bars, for Washington DC and Northern Virginia.

This is an update of an earlier posting: Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA (2013)

Wine Bars in Washington DC

Cork
1720 14th Street NW

This feels very much like a “my down the road wine bar’. Unfortunately I do not live in the neighborhood and need to travel to go there. But I do it, because I feel so comfortable there. Cork has a thoughtful wine list focused on old-world classics from France and Italy. In addition, the food is very good, prepared by an ambitious Chef.

Dickson
903 U Street NW (bet. 9th and 10th Sts. NW)

A three-level wine bar. Follow the stairs up into a modern, cozy space with communal tables, bar seats and flickering candles. Dickson focuses on wines made with an ecological mindset, such as natural, organic and biodynamic wines. Classic wine bar fare such as olives, charcuterie and cheese.

ENO
2810 Pennsylvania Ave NW

ENO Wine Bar, located adjacent to Four Seasons Hotel Washington, DC. ENO works to locally source many of its evening menu items, which include cheeses from nearby Virginia and Pennsylvania as well as local charcuterie and chocolate pairings. An extensive list of wines by the glass includes the option to enjoy a flight of three 2.5-ounce glasses. Take a seat in the space’s modern atrium and overlook all the action. (Complimentary two-hour valet parking at Four Seasons Hotel Washington, DC when visiting ENO Wine Bar.)

Flight Wine Bar
777 6th St. NW

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.: There are plenty of wine bars to choose from in D.C., but few have the breadth and depth of Best of Award of Excellence winner Flight in Chinatown. Wine directors Swati Bose and Kabir Amir oversee the 475-selection list, which features strengths in France, Italy and California, as well as offerings from countless wine regions around the globe, to pair with chef Brendon Mahon’s contemporary Italian dinner menu. True to its name, the restaurant provides flight options spanning nine pages, as well as a selection of choice fine and rare pours accessed via a Coravin wine preservation system, which allows drinkers to sample a wine without removing the bottle's cork.

La Jambe
1550 7th St. NW

The 11 Best Wine Bars in D.C. by Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: This French wine bar got a nod last year as one of our best new bars of 2016 thanks to its lively Parisian sensibility that avoids pretension. The space feels open, with lots of natural light. While other wine bars are focusing on local producers or scouring the globe for underrepresented grapes, the selection is entirely French. There are still more than enough interesting choices, and it's a nice reminder that, when it comes to wine (and cheese), France knows its stuff. So why think too hard about it? Glasses are around $9 and up, and there are many bottles in the $40 range. La Jambe also stocks French beers and liquors along with regional cocktails like a French negroni and an armagnac sour. The kitchen turns out plates of cheese, charcuterie, and baguette sandwiches to complete the experience. It's a quick way to get a hit of European travel without leaving the city.—Travis Mitchell

Picture: La Jambe

Le Bar a Vins Chez Billy Sud
1039 31st St. NW, Georgetown

The 11 Best Wine Bars in D.C. by Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: Georgetown is about as charming a place in D.C. as you can find to sip a fine wine, and this wine bar adjacent to Chez Billy Sud (now the only Chez Billy in town) looks the part. The Bar a Vins (literally French for "wine bar") has both space inside as well as a nice patio for soaking in the warm weather. It's possible to drop a lot on a nice wine here, whether you want something from France, California, or somewhere else entirely. The food here trends toward the small grazing bites of meats, cheeses, and snacks that you'd expect at a wine bar. Head next door to the Obama-approved restaurant if you're craving a full French meal.—Travis Mitchell

Picture: Le Bar a Vin Chez Billy Sud

Maxwell Park
1336 9th St. NW

The 11 Best Wine Bars in D.C. by Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: Is it possible to be a purist who doesn’t take things too seriously? Award-winning sommelier Brent Kroll might argue yes. The by-the-glass wines at Maxwell Park are kept at one of four different temperature zones, the better to appreciate the aromas of particular varietals. Alongside that exactitude, though, you find the quirky and the laid-back. There's July’s featured menu of uncommon Italian whites, entitled Anything But Pinot Grigio (ABPG), with a logo that’s a play on rock band AC/DC. Then there's the bar’s slate surface, designed so sommeliers can ID samples for customers. In practice, it’s a blank canvas where patrons leave behind offbeat doodles or memorable wine quotes. This is the kind of place where it’s OK to admit that you like Riesling because it’s sweet. Rising-star sommelier Niki Lang, one of Kroll’s partners in the venture, can guide you to something new. So relax and enjoy, perhaps with a small plate by guest chef Tony Conte, who last worked with Kroll at The Oval Room. If you’re lucky, you may even catch Kroll teaching the skill he’s been known for since his stint at the St. Regis—opening a bottle of champagne with a saber.—Carmen Drahl

Pictures: At Maxwell Park with Brent Kroll and Niki Lang

Primrose Wine Bar
3000 12th St. NE

City Paper: Sebastian Zutant is one of several top D.C. sommeliers branching out to open wine bars. He’s even making some of the wine he’ll pour at his Brookland bar-meets-bistro. His wife and partner, Lauren Winter of Edit Lab, is tasked with making the 66-seat space with floor-to-ceiling windows feel feminine and French enough to be worthy of the name Primrose. Chef Nathan Beauchamp of Fainting Goat and Tiger Fork is creating a small menu with classics like bœuf à la Bourguignonne served in big pots with crusty bread to pair with the roughly 14 wines by the glass and 75 bottles.

Pintxos Bar
Truxton Circle, 300 Florida Ave NW

Inspired by the pintxo bars of San Sebastian, the lively main level of the Truxton Circle location is perfect for walk-in guests during all operating hours. Bite-sized snacks called pintxos (PEEN-CHOs) are offered as the perfect compliment to the most extensive cider list in the world. No reservations required; full menu is available.

Forty-nine seats upstairs are reserved for dining guests, including the nine-seat service bar. Walk-ins are accommodated when possible but reservations are recommended on busy nights and can be made up to three weeks in advance.

Proof
775 G St NW

For a more substantial fare along with a premium wine, check out Proof, known for its numerous small plates but also for its eclectic selection of creative modern cuisine. Its wine list is outstanding, containing  over 40 by-the-glass selections and 1,000 different bottlings, reaching up into the highest price and quality levels.

Pictures: At Proof with Proof General Manager Morgan Fausett and Proof Chef Austin Fausett as well as Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard

See also:
Winemaker Dinner at Proof with Fred Merwarth, Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, and Chef Austin Fausett, Washington DC, USA
Rock ‘n’ Roll and Wine: Rolling Stones Live and Wine at Proof in Washington DC, USA

The Pursuit
1421 H St NE

Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: I recently saw a Fringe show on the second floor of this small H Street spot, and found myself wildly distracted by the delicious smells wafting from below. The Pursuit is a neighborhood wine bar that definitely doesn't neglect food, with options that go several steps beyond your standard cheese and/or charcuterie board, though they have both of those, too. Dining options also include spreads, small plates, bruschettas, and larger plates (for what it's worth, Yelpers have mixed reviews about the brunch). Naturally, the wines are even more varied, with a diverse list printed on a delightfully unpretentious sheet of white paper. And let me tell you, the delightful sparkling rose (who knew they even made those?) went a long way toward making it through that Fringe show. Flights of five tastes, or three half pours, are available for a very reasonable $15— Rachel Sadon

Ruta del Vino
800 Upshur St NW

Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: The wine bar stereotype (which generally keeps me pretty far away from wine bars) is dark and snooty with a tiny menu of unfulfilling snacks. This relative newcomer to the Upshur Street corridor food scene subverts all that, with an open and airy dining room and plenty of excellent options, both of drink and food. There's a wide array of wines, largely from Chile and Argentina (the name translates to the wine route, or way of the wine). But you don't need to be an expert to decipher the menu, with very helpful descriptors for the non-oenophile. Heck you (or a companion) don't even need to like wine! Their cocktails are just as good as what you'd find at a cocktail-focused bar (including a caipirinha that doesn't bastardize the classic Brazilian drink for a nice change). Meanwhile, the South American food isn't an afterthought, with empanadas that are hearty and flaky at the same time and a generous grilled octopus that you may or may not fight your partner over (Now if only they'll put the queijo coalho back on the menu...)— Rachel Sadon

Picture: Ruta del Vino

Room 11
3234 11th Street NW

The Culture Trip (2017): The beverage list at Room 11 is spectacular, to say the least. Room 11 can satisfy all palates with a wide selection of both red and white wines as well as cocktails and beer. In addition to alcohol, Room 11 also serves tasty food that is best shared with another. The atmosphere at Room 11 is intimate and cozy, with a zinc bar and a patio for seating during the warmer months.

Picture: Room 11

Slate
2404 Wisconsin Ave NW

This Glover Park wine bar and bistro showcases small-production wineries from around the world, paired with a menu of moderately priced small plates and mains; the urban-rustic space has exposed brick and ductwork.

Sonoma
223 Pennsylvania Ave. SE

In the Capitol Hill district, and popular among House and Senat staffers, Sonoma offers a cozy, Italian-influenced atmosphere and plenty of vino to warm you up. The menu and communal tables are made for sharing, and the wine list leans heavily toward Italian and California varietals, which is a perfect pairing for all that cured meat you are about to eat.

Tyber Creek
84 T St. NW

Travis Mitchell in Food on Jul 12, 2017: Tyber Creek: Red, white, rose, and amber. The new kid on the Bloomingdale block brings not only the classic colors, but also the classical wine: amber, also known as orange wine, sourced from Georgia. It's thought to be the first kind of wine crafted several millennia ago, well before your pinot hung out in temp-controlled steel barrels. Tyber Creek is just as much neighborhood hangout as wine bar, with its wraparound patio and family-friendly atmosphere, but the wine list is impressively approachable and wallet-friendly. And to make sure the millennials are happy, there are two wines on tap—and bottomless rosé at brunch.—Evan Caplan

Picture: Tyber Creek

Veritas
2031 Florida Ave. NW

Calling itself “DC’s first and only true wine bar,” Veritas opened in 2007 near Dupont Circle. This intimate bar offers more than 70 wines on tap. Each is available by the glass. Its lengthy wine menu includes flutes, flights, blends and bottles of red, white, and sparkling varietals from throughout the world. All the drinks can be paired with a wide selection of cheeses, charcuterie and chocolates, as well as dips and panini. It's always loud and bustling, but the prime location and broad assortment make up for any noise problems.

Vinoteca
1940 11th Street NW

time out: The owners of this U Street wine bar have looked to the old country for their inspiration. There’s a cozy dining room as well as a backyard plaza with a covered bar and two bocce courts. Sample some of the 50 wines by glass or bottle and divvy up small plates among friends. Brunch is a mimosa bonanza: unlimited pours for $15, ideally paired with a duck confit Benedict.

Washington DC Restaurants with a Good Wine Bar/ Wine List

The city also has a number of fine restaurants with outstanding wine lists, and the booming popularity of wine in the United States has prompted these eateries to move their collections out of their cellars and place them front and center in the dining room. In many of DC’s top eateries, wine chillers are a central part of the decor.

Bistrot Lepic
1736 Wisconsin Avenue, NW

Bistro Lepic is the most French Wine Bistro in Washington DC. It consists of a restaurant downstairs and a lounge plus wine bar area upstairs. Regulars know that the real action happens on the second floor. Low, cushioned chairs and parlor tables create the ambience of a wine-centric clubhouse. The 20-deep bar list is available by half or full glasses (more are available by the bottle), but engaging bartenders often pour samples to encourage new drinking experiences.

I usually go there on Tuesdays, when they have a little wine tasting between 6pm and 8 pm.

Picture: Thomas Schlumberger at Bistro Lepic

See:
Thomas Schlumberger, Domaines Schlumberger in Alsace, presented his Wines at Bistro Lepic in Washington DC, USA, France

Blue Duck Tavern
1201 24th Street NW

The Blue Duck Tavern has an encyclopedic wine list, with more than 30 by the glass, mainly American and including top Virginia wines.

See:
The Annual Bordeaux Feast in Washington DC: Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley (2017) USA, with Damien Barton-Sartorius (Châteaux Léoville Barton, Langoa Barton and Mauvesin Barton), Kinou Cazes-Hachemian (Château Lynch-Bages and Ormes de Pez) and Cécile Loqmane (Château Figeac)

Charlie Palmer Steak House
101 Constitution Avenue NW

For a night out of big food and substantial wines, there is Charlie Palmer Steak House, which only offers 10 wines by the glass. The restaurant’s 3,500-bottle selection is exclusively American, and Charlie Palmer will waive the corkage fee for anyone who brings in a special bottle to drink with their meal, as long as it’s American.

DBGB DC Kitchen and Bar
931 H St NW

Michelin: DBGB Kitchen and Bar's City Center locale may rub shoulders with the likes of Hermès and Louis Vuitton, but this light-filled French restaurant maintains a relaxed elegance with tile floors, dark wood furnishings, and orb pendant lights. It's the kind of place where local politicos and dealmakers come to dish, drink, and dine. The menu is varied, but you'll want to skip the ambitious Americanized cuisine and head straight for the house-made sausages and traditional French selections: pan-roasted salmon is well seasoned and crispy alongside an eye-pleasing vegetable assortment topped with crumbled bacon. Meanwhile, the flaky lemon tart, packed with thick lemon curd and accompanied by a quenelle of blood orange sorbet, makes for a truly satisfying finale.

The offerings include plus 22 craft beers on tap and an expansive wine list.

See also:
Bandol Wine Dinner at DBGB DC Kitchen and Bar, Washington DC
Dinner at Chef Daniel Boulud's DBGB DC with the Wines of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles and Château de Beaucastel in the Rhone Valley, USA/ France Franck Pascal Biodynamic Champagne Dinner at Daniel Boulud's DBGB Kitchen and Bar in Washington DC, USA/ France

Fiola da Fabio Trabocchi
601 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W.

The German wine list presents the traditional selection of German wine in the US, i.e. low-alcohol, sweet style wines. 

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.: Just blocks from the National Mall, between the White House and the Capitol, you’ll find Best of Award of Excellence winner Fiola, the flagship restaurant of chef-owner Fabio Trabocchi. A native of Italy's Marche region, Trabocchi aims to capture the authenticity of regional Italian cooking in dishes such as seared foie gras with poached pears and balsamic, Nova Scotia lobster bisque, and aged mulard duck with kumquats. Wine director Casper Rice guides the 1,375-selection list, which focuses on Piedmont, Tuscany, Burgundy, Bordeaux and California, including more than 60 options in half-bottle.

Iron Gate Restaurant
1734 N St. N.W.

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.: In a historic property in the heart of Dupont Circle, Iron Gate Restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine inspired by Greece and Italy. From chef Anthony Chittum, tasting menu options are offered in four and six courses, with optional wine pairings in addition to the à la carte menu. The 210-selection list has earned an Award of Excellence since 2010, championing indigenous grape varieties from regions across the two countries, and for the less wine-inclined, more than 30 bottles of beer and cider round out the beverage list.

Kinship
1015 7th St NW

Along with Fiola da Fabio Trabocchi, the only Washington DC restaurants on the "Wine Enthusiast 100 Best Wine Restaurants" list.

Le Diplomate
1601 14th St NW

Le Diplomate pays homage to French café culture serving breakfast, lunch, brunch, mid-day and dinner. The extensive menu features a variety of classic favorites including Onion Soup Gratinée, Steak Frites and Escargots as well as daily plats such as Lavender Roast Duck and Rabbit en Gibelotte.  Large wine list with half French wines and half “International Interpretations”.

Picture: Le Diplomate

Marcel’s
2401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.:I n the West End, Best of Award of Excellence winner Marcel’s infuses French fare with Belgian influences, a nod to owner and chef Robert Wiedmaier’s background. The prix fixe menu spans from four to seven courses, with optional caviar service, though tasting-menu dishes are also offered à la carte. Wine director Ramon Narvaez champions French wines on the 580-selection list, with particular depth in Burgundy, Champagne and California. For those who prefer beer to bubbly, the restaurant also offers a large selection of Belgian brews, including Wiedmaier’s own double blonde ale, Antigoon.

Pictures: Sommelier Moez Ben Achour and Chef de Cuisine Paul Stearman from Marcel's tasting the wines of Gérard Dupuy. See: From Millésime Bio in Montpellier, France, to Bistro Bis in Washington DC, USA: Gérard Dupuy and his Château Beausejour Wines in AOC Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion

Pictures: Annette Schiller with Sommelier Moez Ben Achour and Chef Robert Wiedmaier

Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak
2800 Pennsylvania Ave NW

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.: Based in the heart of Georgetown at the Four Seasons Hotel Washington, Bourbon Steak’s D.C. location has earned a Best of Award of Excellence since 2009. Choose from an array of beef cuts, as well as elk tenderloin, venison fillet, bison rib eye and an assortment of oak-fired fish, on chef Joe Palma’s menu. Wine director Julian Mayor oversees the 700-selection list, with strengths in California, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne, rounded out by several dozen large-format bottles.

Mirabelle
900 16th Street NW

Mirabelle (new restaurant) exudes midcentury glamour. It’s just two blocks from the White House, where Executive Chef Frank Ruta cooked under the Carter, Reagan and first Bush administrations. Mirabelle’s bar, boasting rich materials of Carrara marble, distressed mirror panels, and brass rosettes, seats 22 guests. Huge, outstanding wine list with French wines accounting for 2/3 of it, some at 4 digit prices.

Old Ebitt Grill
675 15th St. NW

You won't find this place listed among the city's best culinary establishments, but it's an institution. The Old Ebbitt also has Washington's most popular raw bar, which serves farm-raised oysters. It reminds me a bit of La Coupole in Paris. Several bars. Decent wine list.

Plume
The Jefferson, 1200 16th St. N.W.

Wine Spectator October 2016 - 11 Capital Wine Lists To Try in Washington, D.C.: For a D.C. dining experience that’s truly presidential, head downtown to Best of Award of Excellence winner Plume. Located at the historic Jefferson Hotel, the restaurant pays homage to the wine-loving third president’s tastes in both its dinner and beverage menus, including dishes inspired by the harvest from his kitchen gardens at Monticello and a vast array of Madeiras dating back to the mid-1800s. Wine director Jennifer Knowles oversees the 1,375-selection list, emphasizing Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne, Italy, Bordeaux and Germany, plus plenty of local favorites from Virginia.

Taberna del Alabardera
1776 I Street  NW (18th St.)

“Madrid in Washington DC” with a nice bar. One of the favorites of the international staff of the World Bank and IMF, which are close by.

Picture: La Taberna del Alabarder

See also:
Massive (16 Vintages) Tasting of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande with MD/ Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau and Panos Kakaviatos in Washington DC, USA
Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain
Winemaker Dinner with Santiago Vivanco of Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco in Rioja at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

The Source by Wolfgang Puck
575 Pennsylvania Ave NW

Very large and pleasant bar area.

Picture: Source by Wolfgang Puck

See also:
Crab Cakes: Jeff Black from Black Salt and Chris Clime from PassionFish win the 8th Annual Crab Cake Competition in Washington DC, USA

Wine Bars in Northern Virginia

Boxwood Tasting Room
1618 Library St. at Democracy Dr., Reston, VA

A great wine bar owned and run by Boxwood, one of the leading wine producers in Virginia. It serves Boxwood, but also other wines, all by the glass.

Picture: Rachel Martin, Managing Director of Boxwood Winery

See:
Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Tasting Through Recent Vintages at Boxwood Winery in Virginia: With Anne Cuvelier from Chateau Leoville - Poyferre, Annette Schiller from Wine Tours by Ombiasy and Boxwood Winery General Manager Rachel Martin, USA

Cheesetique Cheese and Wine Bar
2411 Mt Vernon Ave, Del Ray

Best cheeses in town.

Grand Cru Wine Bar and Bistro
Ballston 4301 Wilson Boulevard

Large, popular place with good wines. Nice to sit outside in the summer with the dog.

Pictures: Grand Cru Winebar and Bistro

North Side Social
Ballston 3211 Wilson Blvd

A coffee shop with a first floor that turns into a wine bar with an amazing selection of wines in the evening.

Picture: Tasting the Sonoma Wines of Flowers Vineyard & Winery with Estate Director Christopher Barefoot at Northside Social in Washington DC, USA

Screw Top Wine Bar
Clarendon - 1025 N Filmore St.

Charming neighborhood wine bar with interesting wines.

Picture: Meeting a Rhone Ranger and Tasting His Wines - Sherman Thacher from Paso Robles in California

Twisted Vines Wine Bar and Bottle Shop
2803 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA

Charming neighborhood wine bar with interesting wines.

Picture: Twisted Vines

See:
Meeting Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, and Tasting Her Excellent Wines

The Wine House
3950 University Dr, Fairfax, VA

Charming neighborhood bistro and wine bar.

Picture: Central Otago, New Zealand, Winemaker and Owner Dan Dineen at the Wine House

See:
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner

Restaurants in Northern Virginia with a Good Wine Bar/ Wine List 

Brine
2985 District Ave, Fairfax

With four generations of oyster expertise and a passion for farm-to-table living, Rappahannock Oyster Co.'s restaurant, Brine, sets Mosaic apart as a destination for seafood lovers. Along with the famous Rappahannock oysters at the raw bar, owner Travis Croxton is committed to using only regional meats and produce, from chicken and duck to lamb and fish.

I do not go there for the wine but for the happy hour oysters (US$1.25 per oyster).

Pictures: Christian Schiller with Owner Travis Croxton

See also: Tasting Virginia Chesapeake Bay Oysters with Oyster Producer Travis Craxton at the Rappahannock River, USA

Evo Bistro
1313 Old Chain Bridge Rd., McLean (Virginia)

Evo Bistro is both my down-the-road Wine Bar in McLean, Virginia, and my favorite Restaurant and Bistro in the Washington DC area. It combines an unpretentious French-Mediterranean atmosphere with top wines from around the world, both the old and the new world, and delicious French, Moroccan and Spanish tapas, prepared by Chef Driss Zahidi, who I know from the days of the tiny Corner Bistro on Old Dominion.

Picture: Marlene RedDoor, Christian L. Stahl, Annette Schiller and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

See also:
Franken Wines, Virginia Oysters and French-Mediterranian Food: Winemaker Dinner with Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl, Germany, and Chef Driss Zahidi at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia

Schiller’s Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2014, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller's Favorite (Seafood) Restaurants in Rehoboth, Delaware, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, Washington State, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Restaurants in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Dakar, Senegal, West Africa
Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Picture: Tasting with Gernot Kollmann, Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel

We started the day in the Ahr Valley, visited 3 world class winemakers in the Mosel Valley during the day and finished the day in the 2 star Michelin Restaurant Schanz in Piesport with a fine-dining dinner.

We had breakfast in Bad Neuenahr in the Ahr Valley. From there we drove about an hour for our first appointment at Weingut Markus Molitor in the Mosel Valley. After lunch, we spent the early afternoon at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg with Managing Director/ Winemaker Gernot Kollmann. The third visit was at Weingut Fritz Haag, with Oliver Haag.

The visit at Markus Molitor was tasting only. At Fritz Haag and Immich Batterieberg we also visited the vineyards. All 3 tastings were most impressive.

At Weingut Immich-Batterieberg, Gernot Kollmann was our host.

Picture: Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel

Weingut Immich-Batterieberg

The Big Glue: Immich-Batterieberg is one of the oldest wineries in the Mosel traced back to the year 911. In 1495, the Immich family purchased the property, producing traditional dry and off-dry wines under their name for almost 500 years. After filing for bankruptcy in 2007, the estate was acquired in 2009 by Gernot Kollmann and two Hamburg based investors (Owners: Dr. Volker Auerbach and Roland Probst). Since taking over, the wines are once again produced in a dry or off-dry style, with sugar levels depending on each site, each vintage. All of the Cru wines are once again being vinified separately in old oak barrels; spontaneous fermentations are the norm and chaptalization, re/de-acidification or any other intervention during vinification is forbidden. Sulfur is added in low doses and only before bottling. 80% of the vines are un-grafted and over 60 years old, and everything is worked organically (though not certified).

Picture: Arriving

History

Gernot Kollmann: Immich-Batterieberg ranks among the oldest estates on the Mosel. The middle portion of the estate’s grounds – still standing today – was first mentioned, in 908 A.D., by Ludwig IV, the last East Frankish Carolingian king, in a deed that confirmed the estate’s transfer to the church.

According to archaeological estimates, the foundation of the building dates from the second half of the 9th century. Especially remarkable is the cellar’s load-bearing basalt pillar, which was “recycled’ from a nearby Roman estate.

In the 12th Century the estate was ceded as a fief to Prince von Esch (hence to day’s Escheburg) and was then remodeled and expanded. The right wing of the property, the “Franzenhaus,’ was not built until the 16th Century and the “Herrenhaus,’ richly adorned in the Mosel-Frankish style and which today makes up the left wing, did not appear until the early 1900s.

It was the Immich family – among the oldest winemaking families on the Mosel, with a history that spans from 1425 through 1989 – that was especially crucial to the history and the development of the estate. We have them to thank for our most famous site, the Batterieberg, which between 1841 and 1845 was formed into one of the Mosel’s top sites by way of ceaseless rounds of dynamite. Batterieberg, along with the older top-tier sites Steffensberg, Ellergrub, and Zeppwingert, are all steep slate slopes and all achieved the highest ranking in the Prussian Vineyard Classification of 1868. Today they comprise the heart of the estate.

Pictures: Tasting with Gernot Kollmann

Vineyards

Weingut Immich-Batterieberg works four vineyards on extremely steep slopes, all of which were included in the highest class in the Prussian Vineyard Classification of 1868 (based on Napoleon’s Classification des Vines from 1804).

Just as important to us as the inherent quality of the vineyards is the available grape material. We are delighted to have a very large portion of old, ungrafted vines, from which, because of their genetic diversity and their naturally low yields, the highly differentiated, deep, and site-typical Rieslings that we want can come into being.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Gernot Kollmann

Cellar

Gernot Kollamann: With our fresh start at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in 2009, we are looking to connect to the very noble stylistic standards of this tradition-rich estate. For us there is the special challenge among the recognition of the great wines that were made here, our own viticultural and vinicultural ideas, and a respect for the natural conditions defined by our top sites in Enkirch – there is a lot to learn!

What that means for us concretely is an even clearer orientation toward dry Riesling, a style long well-cultivated here, even when the rest of the area was committed to sweeter wines. We stand for a very pure, unadorned, and rather powerful style of Riesling, with ripe, moderate acidity and with the pronounced structure intended for a long aging potential – and also, of course, for a certain ripeness requirement, especially for our top wines.

Our wines are raised without a heavy hand, primarily in barrels (but also in stainless steel), and are left for a long time on their lees. We use no cultured yeast, no enzymes, no protein stabilizers, and no clarifying agents. We do not chaptalize, concentrate, or de-acidify and place ourselves in the tradition of natural wines that – until the 1971 reform of the German wine law – was indicated on the bottle by the phrase naturrein.

Gernot Kollmann

Gernot Kollman hails from Wetter (in Westphalia). In the early 1990s, at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel, he began to transform into a career what had previously been an intensively cultivated hobby. After completing his studies in Wine Business Administration in Heilbronn, and after a brief tenure at the Fürstlich Castell’schen Domänenamt, Gernot worked first at the Bischöflicher Weingüter in Trier and then at Van Volxem on the Saar. Since 2004 he has consulted at several estates, both in Germany and abroad, and has enjoyed high praise for his wines in the national and international press.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller with Gernot Kollmann in New York City. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

In 2009 Gernot assumed responsibility for the direction and the winemaking at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg. He stands for a powerful, sometimes somewhat wild, “unstyled’ style of Riesling (cultured yeasts are renounced for all wines), more on the dry side, and as a rule not intended for immediate consumption.

Tasting

Gernot led a wonderful tasting of his wines, ranging from a Brut Zero Dosage Sekt an aged Spätlese trocken and an aged Auslese.

2014 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Riesling Brut Zero

2015 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg C.A.I. Riesling

A racy and expressive, mineral-driven Riesling.

2015 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Escheburg Riesling

The name comes from a fiefdom agreement made with Count of Esch in the 12th century. A very elegant, fine and mineral-driven wine.

2015 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Zollturm Riesling

An extremely steep vineyard with meagre soils of grey and blue slate, with perfect south-southwesterly exposure. A prime parcel in the rocky, terraced landscape between Enkirch and Traben-Trabach.

2014 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Ellergrub Riesling

Ellergrub is 150 m to the right of the Zeppwingert. Here, you find the classic blue slate of the middle Mosel.

2009 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Escheburg Riesling

1989 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Batterieberg Spätlese trocken Riesling

Batterieberg is a 1.1 hectare monopole within the Zeppwingert, and also the place that gives the estate its namesake: it was Carl August Immich's decision to dynamite this hill between 1841 and 1845 which permitted him to create terraces and plant vines (Batterieberg translates to Battered Mountain). The slate here is grey and very rocky, with a heavy amount of quartz.

2015 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Zeppwingert Auslese Riesling

The Zeppwingert parcel is to the right of Batterieberg. The soil is darker here.

1991 Weingut Immich-Batterieberg Batterieberg Auslese Riesling

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Technical Director Albert Schamaun– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jean Stodden, Ahr, with Alexander Stodden - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting with Markus Molitor at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting and Vineyard Walk at Weingut Fritz Haag (VDP) in Brauneberg, Mosel, with Oliver Haag

Dinner at the 2 Michelin star restaurant Schanz in Piesport, Mosel

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Visit and tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus (VDP) in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, Mosel, with Dr. Carl von Schubert 

Visit and tasting at Weingut von Hövel (VDP) in Oberemmel, Saar, Mosel, with Max von Kunow

Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber (VDP) in Monzingen, Nahe, with Frank Schönleber

Wine-pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the wines of Weingut Hexamer.

Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker, in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker

Picture: Manfred Aufricht and the A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" at Weingut Aufricht, Baden

The visit of the Lake Constance Region was a first for the Germany-South and Alsace Tour by ombiasy WineTours. We had never been to the Lake Constance Region before as it is a bit out of the way. It was worth the detour. We started with a wine tasting concert at Weingut Aufricht on the day of our arrival. The following day, we spent the whole day at Schloss Salem, touring the historic abbey before lunch and having a visit of the winery of Schloss Salem  - Weingut Markgraf von Baden - in the afternoon, before visiting Kirche Birnau and its vineyards. We concluded the day with a tour of Meersburg and had a light dinner in a wine tavern in Meersburg.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Aufricht, where the Harvest was in Full Swing when we Arrived

The visit of Weingut Aufricht was not a typical one. Annette had booked us seats at an wine and music evening event at Weingut Aufricht. The Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre" performed A Cappella music and Manfred Aufricht poured 6 wines and talked about his winery and his wines.

Pictures: The A Cappella Ensemble "Männer und Tenöre"

A cappella (Italian for “From the chapel/choir”) music is singing without instrumental accompaniment. The Comedian Harmonists were an internationally famous, all-male German ensemble that performed between 1928 and 1934 as one of the most successful musical groups in Europe before World War II.

Manfred Aufricht and his wife Hildegard Aufricht were our hosts. This was an evening of music and wine.

Baden

Baden is Germany’s most southerly and - with 16,000 hectares (39,300 acres) under vine – third largest wine region. Despite its size and the quality of its wines, it is not well known outside of Germany, because it exports very little.

From north to south, Baden spans approximately 200 kilometers, and is primarily situated on the right bank of the Rhein river. On the left bank is Alsace in France. Baden is divided into nine districts; one of them is the Lake Constance district, where the Aufricht Estate is located.

Baden is known for its Pinot wines, both white and red,which account for more than half of Baden’s wine output. Riesling plays only a minor role.

Lake Constance

Lake Constance - in German: Bodensee - is shared by Germany, Switzerland and Austria. The largest City on the lake is Constance - in German: Konstanz. On the Swiss side is the Canton of Thurgau, where the grape variety Mueller Thurgau comes from, created by Hermann Mueller in 1882. The Austrian part does not have much wine, if any; the wine regions of Austria are on the other side of the country, in the east.

Picture: Lake Constance in the South of Germany, with Swiss Mountains

See also: The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Weingut Aufricht

In Baden - like in Württemberg - the wine industry is dominated by wine co-operatives; they account for 85% of the region's production. This explains the low export share. Private winemakers are the exception. One of these exceptions is Weingut Aufricht. Weingut Aufricht started out as a member of a wine co-operative and became independent about 30 years ago, after the brothers Robert and Manfred Aufricht had taken over from their parents.

The Aufricht winery was founded seventy years ago by the father and grandfather of the current generations. Today the winery has 24 hectares of vineyards. 80 % of the vineyards are planted with Burgundy grapes (30% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Chardonnay 10% respectively), the remainder with Müller-Thurgau, Muskateller, Riesling, Sauvignon-Blanc. The Aufricht brothers were the first to plant Sauvignon Blanc again in the Lake Constance region. The top red wines are matured in barriques for several years. Bottle-fermented sparkling wines are also produced.

Weingut Aufricht is located at Lake Constance between Meersburg and Hagnau. The lake’s water reflects the sun like a mirror. The roots of the vines get their "food" from the glacial moraine of granite, limestone and gneiss of the Alps. The idyllic location in combination with the elegant and modern architecture and the view on the lake and the Swiss Alps in the distance make this winery the perfect spot for a romantic concert.

The vineyard area totals 24 hectares, with holdings in the Fohrenberg and Sängerhalde sites. The Aufricht brothers grow Pinot Noir, Lemberger, Pinot Madeleine and Regent, and Pinot Gris, Auxerrois,Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

Weingut Aufricht has 2 Grapes (out of 5) in the Gault Millau Wine Guide.

Wine and Music

This was a most enjoyable evening of good wines and good music.

Pictures: Wine Tasting Concert with the A Cappella Ensemble “Männer und Tenöre” at Weingut Aufricht

The Wines

2016 Weingut Aufricht Gutedel
2016 Weingut Aufricht Johannes Aufricht Alte Reben
2016 Weingut Aufricht Spätburgunder Rose
2015 Weingut Aufrich Weissburgunder
2014 Weingut Aufricht Chardonnay trocken 3 Lilien
2015 Weingut Aufricht Aufrichtig Rot  (Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir)

Pictures: The Weingut Aufricht Wines

schiller-wine: All Postings (Published and Forthcoming): Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner/ Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

La Cucina della Passione and Weingut Schloss Neuweier Wines: Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Wine tasting concert with the A-Cappella Ensemble “Männer und Tenöre” at Weingut Aufricht in Meersburg – Stetten, with Manfred and Hildegard Aufricht

The Lake Wines of the Aufricht Brothers: From Lake Constance in Germany

The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Schloss Salem at Lake Constance in Germany: A Museum, a School and a Wine Estate

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markgraf von Baden in Salem, Baden

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Löffler in Wettenberg, Markgräfler Land, Baden, with Hannes Glöckner of the Löffler Family and Founder Wolfgang Löffler 

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stigler in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Andreas and Maximilian Stigler

Dinner at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden.

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

The World Class Wines of Alsace

In the world class white wine region Alsace

Tasting at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace

Lunch in Alsace: Wistub du Sommelier in Bergheim and Bistro L’Epicurien in Colmar

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dirler-Cadé in Bergholtz, Alsace, with Jean Pierre Dirler and Ludevine Dirler-Cadé

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Schlumberger in Guebwiller, Alsace

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Hugel & Fils in Riquewhir, Alsace, with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant L’Achémille in Kaysersberg, with Owner/ Chef Jérome Jaegle

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jülg in Schweigen, Pfalz, with Johannes Jülg

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Tasting at Maison Jülg in Seebach, Alsace, with Peter Jülg

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz, with Valentin Rebholz and Stephanie Wagner

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Münzberg – Lothar Kesseler & Söhne in Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz, with Friedrich and Gunter Kesseler

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Rings in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Andi Rings

Tasting at Weingut Krebs in Freinsheim, Pfalz, with Jürgen Krebs

Tasting at Sekthaus Raumland in Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen, with Heide-Rose and Volker Raumland

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Philipp Wittmann

Cellar Tourvisit and Tasting at Weingut Gröbe in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, with Fritz Gröbe

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum

Picture: Christian Schiller with a 2009 Weingut Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Salmanazar at the 2017 Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau

Arguably, the Riesling Gala at the Eberbach Abbey in the Rheingau is the greatest Riesling Party on earth.

The Rheingau Riesling Gala is a culinary and social event in which wine enthusiasts meet in the historic setting of the lay dormitory of Kloster Eberbach (the largest room of the Romanesque period north of the Alps) in order to celebrate the noblest of all grapes, the Riesling.

This year, more than 600 Riesling lovers came from all over the world (but mainly from Germany) to participate in the 28th Rheingau Riesling Gala.

The Riesling Gala is the grand finale and the highlight of the Glorious Rheingau Days, an annual celebration of the Rheingau Riesling, this year for the 31th times. Over 10 days or so, VDP members of the Rheingau present their wines at winemaker dinners and similar events at the Rheingau’s top restaurants or other interesting places.

All of the pictures in this posting are mine, with the exclusions of a few pictures, which I took from facebook pages.

Pictures: A Riesling Feast in an Historic Setting: Riesling Gala 2017 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

28th Rheingau Riesling Gala

On Sunday, November 12, from 11 am to 6 pm, VDP producers of the Rheingau, their guest winemakers from other regions and their more than 600 guests enjoyed a 6 course dinner, each course prepared by a different top chef.

The wines served differed, depending on who was hosting you and who his or her guest winemaker was.

This year, my wife Annette and I were the guests of Wilhelm Weil, whose guest winemaker was Ernst Loosen from the Mosel. So, we enjoyed the superb wines of Weingut Robert Weil and Weingut Dr. Loosen. Please note that Robert Weil wines are part of the portfolio of Loosen Bros. USA, the US wine import company of Ernst and Thomas Loosen.

Pictures: A Riesling Feast in an Historic Setting: Riesling Gala 2017 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany

Remembering Restaurant Schweizer Stuben

This year, the selection of the chefs - Egbert Engelhardt, Johannn Lafer, Jörg Müller, Dieter Müller, Burkhard Schork, Hans Stefan Steinheuer - was very special as they were all in the kitchen crew of the Schweizer Stuben in the 1970s, when the Schweizer Stuben, along with the Tantris in Munich, the Ente vom Lehel in Wiesbaden, Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen and the Schwarzwaldstuben in Baiersbronn, put German cooking on the map with the German Nouvelle Cuisine "Küchenwunder" and the "Trockenwelle".

Pictures: The Riesling Gala/ Schweizer Stuben Crew - Egbert Engelhardt, Johannn Lafer, Jörg Müller, Dieter Müller, Burkhard Schork, Hans Stefan Steinheuer

Jörg Müller was the Schweizer Stuben Executive Chef from 1973-1981. Later, at Restaurant Jörg Müller/ Sylt, he cooked at the 1 star Michelin level.

His brother Dieter Müller was the Schweizer Stuben Executive Chef from 1981-1990. Later, he headed the Gourmet-Restaurant Dieter Müller (3 stars Michelin) and the Schlosshotel Lerbach Restaurant (3 stars Michelin).

Johannn Lafer was the Patisserie Chef in the early days of the Schweizer Stuben. Since then he has been cooking at his own restaurant, the Le Val d'Or, at 1 star and 2 stars Michelin level.

Hans Stefan Steinheuer was Sous-Chef from 1981-1983. He currently owns and runs Zur Alten Post in Bad Neuenahr (2 stars Michelin).

Burkhard Schork was a line cook in the early days of the Schweizer Stuben. Today, he owns and runs with his wife Regine the charming Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietingheim-Bissingen.

Egbert Engelhardt was a line cook in the early days of the Schweizer Stuben. He later run the Graues Haus (1 star Michelin) in the Rheingau.

Kloster Eberbach

It was in the year 1136, when thirteen monks first set foot into this remote Rheingau valley.

The monks were from France, coming from Clairveaux in Pinot to found a new monastery in the Rheingau valley through which the Kisselbach runs – and they brought grapevines with them.

Pictures: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau

The Monastery of Eberbach soon grew to be one of the biggest and most important cloisters in Germany, also thanks to its wine. The grape variety of Pinot Noir, imported from Pinot, became the first successful wine export from the Rheingau: the monks, being freed from toll charges along the Rhine, dominated the wine trade all the way down the river to Cologne, a very profitable business. In 1162, the Monastery even owned a magazine in Cologne which was privileged by Pope Alexander III.

Towards the end of the 15th century, rooms of the monastery like the Fraternei and the refectory for the lay priests were also turned into wine cellars – at this time, up to 150 priest monks and 600 lay priests lived in the monastery. The wars of the following centuries, however, damaged the monastery to a large extent, viticulture however continued to flourish. In 1730, the monks built a treasury for their most valuable growths – we know the date from a bill written by a carpenter from Eltville concerning the "Kabinett cellar." Until today, priceless wine treasures of centuries long since gone are stocked here.

With Secularisation, in 1803, monastery life ended in Eberbach, not so, however, viticulture: The tradition of wine growing was continued by the new owners of worldly origin, first by the Duke of Nassau, then from 1866 on by the Prussians and finally, since 1945, by the State of Hessen. Today, the Estate Monastery of Eberbach administers six Domains belonging to the State of Hessen, five of them situated in the Rheingau and one on the Hessische Bergstraße. With 200 hectares of vineyards, the Eberbach estate is the biggest wine growing company in Germany. The red wines from Eberbach, however, remain a trade mark in itself – the Pinot Noir is still grown here on 32 hectares.

In summer 2008, only several hundred of meters below the old monastery, the Steinbergkeller was opened, a state-of-the-art wine production site as only few in Europe exist. Each day, up to 7000 liters of grape juice can be processed, while the cellars stretch out on 5000 square kilometers and on several levels below the earth. They reach all the way below the Steinberg, the oldest vineyard site in Eberbach and its very first. The Steinberg vineyard is enclosed by a medieval wall of quarry stones, counting 3000 meters in length, which provides a special climate for the Riesling grapes growing on the slope – they say, the Steinberg was the favorite wine of the monks. The results of today's vinification can be tasted in the monastery's wine shop – or at one of the frequent wine tastings.

See also:
Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The Rheingau

It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.

Picture: The Rheingau

The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.

The Rheingau enjoys a distinctly continental climate with cold winters and warm, but not hot, summers. The Rheingau is dominated by Riesling, accounting for 4/5 of the vineyard area. Wilhelm Weil, our host, produces only Riesling wines.

See also:
VDP.Rheingau Rhine River Boat Trip with Pre-release Presentation of the 2015 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines
The Rheingau and its Terroirs: Tasting with Rheingau’s Elite Winemakers, Germany
Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Reception

The event started with a reception, where Rheingau Charta Rieslings and finger food were served. This year, because of the weather, the reception took place inside, in the historic places of Kloster Eberbach, including the famous Cabinet Wine Cellar, which normally is not open to the public, the Eberbach Cloister and the Refectory, the dining room of the monks.

Reception: Cabinet Cellar

Pictures: Reception in the Cabinet Cellar

Pictures: Josi Leitz and Friends

Reception: Cloister

Picture: Weingut Ress Visitors from the USA, led by Fred Elleman

Picture: Annette Schiller with Tim Lilienström, Technical Director, and Peter Winter, Owner, both Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung, and Kathrin Starker, Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein

Picture: Annette Schiller with Carolin and Sylvain Diel

Reception: Refectory (Dining Room of the Monks)

Pictures: Reception in the Refectory

Picture: Annette Schiller and Achim von Oetinger, Weingut Oetinger

Picture: Andreas and Bernd Spreitzer, Weingut Spreitzer

Reception: Lay Dormitory

Picture: Reception

Pictures: Annette Schiller with H.O. Spanier, Weingut Kühling-Gillot & Battenfeld Spanier, Dieter Greiner, Managing Director, Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach, Steffen and Andreas Rings, Weingut Rings

Reception: Charta Rieslings and Finger Food

For the reception, we enjoyed delicious finger food and Charta Riesling.

Picture: Charta Riesling

Pictures: Finger Food

Entry of the Winemakers in the Lay Dormitory

The lunch started with the entry of the winemakers (and the Rheingau Wine Queens).

Pictures: Entry of the Winemakers

Welcome Greetings by Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, President of the VDP Rheingau

Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil and President of the VDP Rheingau, welcomed the guests, with the participating winemakers and the Rheingau Wine Queens.

Pictures: Rheingau Riesling Gala 2017 - Welcome

The Tables

More than 600 Riesling lovers came from all over the world to participate in the 28th Riesling Gala at the historic Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau in Germany. They sat at the tables of the following winemakers:

Weingut Allendorf/ Weingut Horst Sauer
Weingut Balthasar Ress/ Weingut Kühling-Gillot & Battenfeld Spanier
Weingut Robert Weil/ Weingut Dr. Loosen
Weingut Spreitzer/ Weingut Jung/ Weingut Diel
Weingut Urban Kaufmann/ Weingut Lubentiushof
Weingut Schloss Johannisberg/ Weingut G.H. von Mumm/ Weingut Bürklin-Wolf
Weingut Schloss Vollrads/ Weingut Weegmüller
Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung/ Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein
Weingut Diefenhardt/ Weingut Bürgerspital
Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn/ Weingut Am Stein
Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach/ Weingut Rings
Weingut Leitz/ Weingut Dönnhoff
Weingut Barth/ Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken
Weingut Johannishof/ Weingut Wöhrwag

Gala Luncheon

The Gala Luncheon was a 6-course luncheon over a period of 6 hours, i.e. every hour one course with 2 wines, from the winemakers of your table. After each course, you had a bit of time to walk around, talk with other guests and try the wines of other winemakers.

Annette and I sat at the table of Weingut Robert Weil/ Weingut Dr. Loosen, i.e. with Wilhelm Weil and Ernst Loosen.

Table Weingut Robert Weil/ Weingut Dr. Loosen

Pictures: Table Weingut Robert Weil/ Weingut Dr. Loosen

Starter

Pictures: Starter

First Course

Getrüffeltes Geflügel-Gänseleberparfait im Baumkuchenmantel mit Apfelsalat und Rieslinggelee

Pictures: Getrüffeltes Geflügel-Gänseleberparfait im Baumkuchenmantel mit Apfelsalat und Rieslinggelee

Chef: Jörg Müller

Schweizer Stuben (2 stars Michelin, Nösse (2 stars Michelin), Restaurant Jörg Müller/ Sylt (1 star Michelin)

Pictures: Chef Jörg Müller

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Chef Jörg Müller

2004 Weingut Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage
1990 Weingut Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Sekt Brut

Pictures: The Wines

Table Weingut Leitz/ Weingut Dönnhoff

Josi Leitz and Cornelius Dönnhoff had 10 prominent winemakers from Germany and Austria as special guests had their table, who also showed their wines: Markus Schneider from Weingut Markus Schneider (Pfalz), Kilian Franzen from Weingut Franzen (Mosel), Philipp Wittmann from Weingut Wittmann (Rheinhessen), Jochen Dreissigacker from Weingut Dreissigacker (Rheinhessen), Friedrich Becker Jr. from Weingut Becker (Pfalz), Urban Stagard from Weingut Stagard (Austria). In addition, Kevin Pike, Owner of Schatzi Wines, leading US Importer of German wines, including Weingut Leitz, was at the table.

Pictures: Table Weingut Leitz/ Weingut Dönnhoff

Second Course

Curry-Zintronengrassuppe mit Jakobsmuschelspiess

Picture: Curry-Zintronengrassuppe mit Jakobsmuschelspiess

Chef: Dieter Müller

Schweizer Stuben (2 stars Michelin), Gourmet-Restaurant Dieter Müller (3 stars Michelin), Schlosshotel Lerbach (3 stars Michelin)

Pictures: Chef Dieter Müller

2002 Weingut Robert Weil Riesling Spätlese VDP.Gutswein
1997 Weingut Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

Pictures: The Wines

Table Weingut Urban Kaufmann/ Weingut Lubentiushof

Pictures: Eva Raps, Urban Kaufmann, Andreas Barth, Susanne Barth, Weingut Lubentiushof, Annette Schiller

Table Weingut Balthasar Ress/ Weingut Kühling-Gillot & Battenfeld Spanier

Pictures: Dirk Würtz, Sascha Speicher (Meininger Verlag), Annette Schiller

Picture: Dirk Würtz, Wilhelm Weil, Philipp Erik Breitenfeld (Direttore)

Pictures: The Fred Elleman Group from the USA

Third Course

Gegrillter Hummer mit Lavendel, Pomelo und Fichten.Öl

Pictures: Gegrillter Hummer mit Lavendel, Pomelo und Fichtenöl

Chef: Egbert Engelhardt

Graues Haus (1 star Michelin)

Pictures : Chef Egbert Engelhardt

2014 Weingut Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG
2013 Weingut Dr. Loosen Lay Riesling Trocken GG

Picture: The Wines

Table Weingut Allendorf/ Weingut Horst Sauer

Pictures: Horst Sauer, Ulrich Allendorf, Annette Schiller

Table Weingut Schloss Johannisberg/ Weingut G.H. von Mumm/ Weingut Bürklin-Wolf

Picture: Stefan Doktor

Fourth Course

Perlhuhnbrust auf einer gerührten Polenta mit eingelegten Rosinen und Tomaten-Gemüsesugo

Picture: Perlhuhnbrust auf einer gerührten Polenta mit eingelegten Rosinen und Tomaten-Gemüsesugo

Chef: Burkhard Schork

Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietingheim-Bissingen

Pictures: Chef Burkhard Schork

2012 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Turmberg Trocken Magnum
2011 Weingut Dr. Loosen Himmelreich Graach Riesling Kabinett

Pictures: The Wines

Table Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn/ Weingut Am Stein

Pictures: Sandra Knoll (Weingut Am Stein), Angela Kühn, Annette Schiller, Peter Jakob Kühn, Jasmin Assis, Giuseppe Lauria (Editor in Chief of Weinwisser), Ludwig Knoll (Weingut am Stein), Peter Bernhard Kühn

Table Weingut Barth/ Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken

Pictures: Dorothee Zilliken and Mark Barth

Fifth Course

Spessart-Reh mit Nusskruste, Topfenknödel und Hagebutten-Preiselbeerconfit

Picture: Spessart-Reh mit Nusskruste, Topfenknödel und Hagebutten-Preiselbeerconfit

Chef: Hans Stefan Steinheuer

Zur Alten Post in Bad Neuenahr (2 stars Michelin)

Pictures: Chef Hans Stefan Steinheuer

2009 Weingut Robert Weil Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Salmanazar
2012 Weingut Dr. Loosen Ürzig Riesling Trocken GG Reserve Doppelmagnum

Pictures: The Wines

Sixth Course

Mousse von der Rheingauer Quitte mit cremigem Maroneneis

Picture: Mousse von der Rheingauer Quitte mit cremigem Maroneneis

Chef: Johann Lafer

Le Val d'Or (1 star Michelin, previously 2 stars)

Pictures: Chef Johann Lafer

2007 Weingut Robert Weil Gräfenberg Kiedrich Riesling Auslese
1998 Weingut Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese

Pictures: The Wines

Table Weingut Spreitzer/ Weingut Jung/ Weingut Diel

Pictures: Weingut Spreitzer/ Weingut Jung/ Weingut Diel

Pictures: Caroline Diel, Weingut Diel, Sharing her Wine at our Table, with Ludwig Fienhold (BISS - Kulinarische Zeitung) and Annette Schiller

Table Weingut Schloss Vollrads/ Weingut Weegmüller

Pictures: Christine Müller, Deputy Managing Director of Weingut Schloss Vollrads, and Annette Schiller

Closing Ceremony

At the end of the luncheon, the chefs came to the stage again with their teams.

Pictures: Closing Ceremony

After-Party

The event ended with an after party, where one could taste all the wines that were poured during the luncheon … but also could go for a draft beer. I finsihed the 2017 Riesling Gala with a Curry Wurst.

Pictures: After-Party

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Chef Burkhard Schork, Steffen Brahner, MD, Weingut Bürklin-Wolf, Paul Truszkowski, Wine in Black, Matthias Knebel, Weingut Knebel, Christian Schiller

Picture: Curry Wurst

Last Years' Riesling Galas

For last years' Riesling Gala, see here:

A Riesling Feast in an Historic Setting: Riesling Gala 2016 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany
Riesling Gala 2015 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany
Riesling Gala 2014 at Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, Germany
Rheingau Riesling Gala 2013 at Kloster Eberbach, Germany

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Family-style Wine-pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang - Kaufmann, with Owners/ Winemakers Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

VDP.Rheingau Rhine River Boat Trip with Pre-release Presentation of the 2015 Grosses Gewächs (GG) Wines

The Rheingau and its Terroirs: Tasting with Rheingau’s Elite Winemakers, Germany

Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Lighting and the Flavor of Wine - With Winemaker Ulrich Allendorf in his Aroma Vineyard and Color Room at Weingut Allendorf in Oestrich Winkel, Rheingau, Germany

At Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, during the 2015 Harvest with Winemaker Dirk Würtz, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Christian Witte, Domaine Director– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer– Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tasting the Wines, President Obama was Served: Visit of Weingut Markus Schneider, Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Weegmüller with Stephanie and Gabriele Weegmüller – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Picture: Schowcase of Wines: VDP - Wines of Germany, with Annette and Christian Schiller

Annette and Christian Schiller participated in the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference. Annette Schiller led 3 well-attended tastings (Germany, Bourgogne and Alsace). Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines from VDP producers (the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) at the Showcase of Wines walk-around tasting dinner during the second evening of the conference.

This posting provides an account of the German wine tasting at the Showcase of Wines walk-around tasting dinner.

This is the second in a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2017 at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania:

The 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Showcase of Wines at the 2017 National Conference of the American Wine Society: Annette and Christian Schiller Present German/ VDP/ Loosen Bros. USA Wines

A Journey through the Vineyards of Alsace - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

Burgundy: What makes it so special? - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

German Wines in the 21st Century - Seminar at the 2017 American Wine Society National Conference in in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, led by Annette Schiller

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference

The 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference took place on Thursday, November 2 to Saturday, November 4, 2017, at the Kalahari Resort in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania.

Close to 800 AWS members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations. The American Wine Society was founded in 1967 as a non-profit, educational, consumer-oriented organization for those interested in learning more about all aspects of wine.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2017 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania, USA

Pictures: Delivering the Wines for Annette and Christian's Tastings at the Storage Room

Showcase of Wines Walk-around Tasting Dinner with German Wines from VDP Producers

The Showcase of Wines Walk-around Tasting Dinner was the second of three dinners of the National Conference 2017. The first dinner was a celebration of the 50th Anniversary of the American Wine Society, centered around the wines of Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, with the Frank familly present at the dinner. The third dinner was a Grand Banquet at the end of the National Conference. In beetween, the second dinner was a walk-around tasting dinner with many food stalls and about 40 tables where wine was poured.

Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines, 4 whites and 1 red wine. All wines were from VDP producers, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany. On the right, the Frank familly poured wines of the Dr. Konstantin Frank Vineyards in the Finger Lakes. On the left, the wines of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux were poured.

The AWS had invited the guests to dress up in the 1960s, flower power style.

VDP - Wines of Germany Table (Annette and Christian Schiller)

Annette and Christian Schiller poured 5 German wines, 4 whites and 1 red wine. All wines were from VDP producers, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany:

2015 Weingut Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Baden
2015 Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedricher Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel Riesling trocken
2014 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Grünhäuser Riesling trocken

Picture: The Wines

Annette and Christian Schiller: We could not have poured the German wines without the generous support of 2 wine sponsors. We thank both of them very much for their donations which were instrumental to the great success of the presentation. We also would like to thank the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers. The sponsors:

Esprit du Vin Fine Wine Merchants:
- 2015 Weingut Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder, Baden
Loosen Bros. USA Import:
- 2015 Weingut Robert Weil, Rheingau Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedricher Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Fritz Haag, Mosel Riesling trocken
- 2014 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus, Grünhäuser Riesling trocken

Wine Classification Systems in Germany

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitätswein, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further. The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012.

Pictures: The VDP Booth of Annette and Christian Schiller, with David Falchek, Executive Director of the American Wine Society

The VDP Wine Classification Matrix

Wilhelm Weil: “The new VDP Wine Classification System is basically a matrix classification.” On one axis you find the different quality levels of the wines, along the Burgundian terroir approach, with estate wines, village wines, first growth (premier cru) wines and great growth (grand cru) wines.

Following their colleagues in the Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage in the VDP classification. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification has the following 4 quality layers (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

On the other axis, you find the sweetness levels: Trocken, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as well as Eiswein. Please note that in the new VDP classification system the Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971 and that they have changed their meaning. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indicator for the sweetness range of the finished wine, while in the traditional classification they are an indicator of the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. Generally, in the new VDP classification system, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP.

VDP.Grosse Lage - The Peak of the Pyramid

VDP.Grosse Lage is the peak of the terroir-based pyramid, equivalent to Grand Cru in the Bourgogne. These are the very best vineyards of Germany. Note: For a Grosse Lage vineyard, like in the Bourgogne, you don’t use the village name on the label, just the name of the vineyard.

Maximum yield is at 50hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. The grapes can be fermented in a dry, fruity-sweet and noble-sweet style.

A dry wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is designated VDP.Grosses Gewaechs and labeled Qualitätswein Trocken. A Grosses Gewaechs wine is from 2012 on the ultra premium dry wine made from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Pictures: Showcase of Wines, with Diane Meyer, Conference Chairperson

VDP.Erste Lage - First Class

VDP.Erste Lage designates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics, equivalent to Premier Cru in the Bourgogne. Erste Lage vineyards provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time.

They are planted with traditional varieties. Maximum yield is at 60hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level.

A dry wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled Qualitätswein trocken. Note that there is no “VDP.Erstes Gewaechs” designation.

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

Third: VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha.
A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein Trocken.

A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.

Fourth: VDP.Gutswein – Entry Level

VDP.Gutsweine are the entry-level wines in the VDP's hierarchy.

Pictures: Showcase of Wines

Key Elements of the VDP Classification System to Remember

First: Use of the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese only for fruity-sweet wines - As a major innovation, the VDP members have dropped the traditional Prädikats for dry wine. Only wines that have a noticeable level of sweetness carry the traditional Prädikats like Kabinett, Spaetlese or Auslese. Thus, if you see Spaetlese on the label of a VDP member wine, you can be sure that it is a fruity-sweet Spaetlese. “Spaetlese Trocken” or “Kabinett Trocken” does not exist anymore among the VDP members. If you still find it - and you may indeed find it on the shelves - it is due to the number of exceptions which are in force for the transition period.

Second: The Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese no longer indicator of ripeness at harvest, but indicator for sweetness of the finished wines - In the 1971 Classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of ripeness at harvest. Thus, for instance, you can have a fruity-sweet Spaetlese and a dry Spaetlese. In the VDP classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of sweetness of the finished wine (and not of the ripeness at harvest).

Third: All dry wines up to the highest quality level labeled Qualitaetswein Trocken - All dry wines up to the highest quality level – the Grosses Gewaechs wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard – are labeled Qualitaetswein (QbA) Trocken. A wine made from grapes harvested at Spaetlese level and fully fermented to complete dryness, for example, is marketed as QbA wine. And the level of quality would be indicated by the terroir concept (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage).

This of course does not make it easier for wine consumers to read and understand German wine labels, because the Qualitaetswein denomination has a completely different meaning in the standard classification system. There, it indicates that this wine is an entry-level wine of basic quality. In the VDP classification, Qualitaetswein does not mean anything, as in the VDP system even the ultra-premium dry wines are labeled as a QbA.

Fourth: Grosses Gewaechs ultra-premium dry wine - The dry counterpart of the fruity-sweet Spaetlese and Auslese wines of the VDP are the dry Grosses Gewaechs wines. These are ‘Grand Cru” wines made from grapes from a Grosse Lage vineyard, harvested at Spaetlese or Auslese level in terms of sugar content and fully fermented so that they become dry. The Grosse Gewaechs label is thought to resemble the Grand Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are dry.

Obviously, the Grosses Gewaechs label has become obsolete. Grosse Lage Trocken says it all. You do not need the predicate Grosses Gewaechs. But the Grosses Gewaechs label is well established in the market and recognized by wine consumers.

Fifth: No single vineyard wines below Grosse Lage and Erste Lage - In the VDP classification, only Grosse Lage and Erste Lage vineyards appear on the label. If a wine comes from a vineyard that is not in the exclusive circle of Grosse and Erste Lage, the label will not carry any vineyard name. Instead, it will be either a village wine (with just the village and the name of the winery on the label) or an Estate wine (with just the name of the winery on the label).

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

For more on the new VDP Classification, see:

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller
The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Conducting a Seminar at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA
The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Conducting a Seminar at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

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Picture: At Basilica Birnau at Lake Constance

Weingut Markgraf von Baden comprises 2 estates: Schloss Salem in the Lake Constance Region and Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, both in the Baden Region. We spent a full day at Schloss Salem. We started in the morning with a tour of Schloss Salem, followed by lunch at Restaurant Zum Schwanen on the grounds of Schloss Salem. In the afternoon, we visited the Schloss Salem Estate of Weingut Markgraf von Baden. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at Kirche Birnau. In the evening, we took a stroll through Meersburg and enjoyed the incredible charm of Meersburg and Lake Constance.

Lake Constance

Lake Constance - in German: Bodensee - is shared by Germany, Switzerland and Austria. The largest City on the lake is Constance - in German: Konstanz. On the Swiss side is the Canton of Thurgau, where the grape variety Müller Thurgau comes from, created by Hermann Müller in 1882. The Austrian part does not have much wine, if any; the wine regions of Austria are on the other side of the country, in the east.

Picture: Lake Constance in the South of Germany, with Swiss Mountains

See also: The Evolving Structure of the Wine Industry in Germany– The Case of the Lake Constance Region

Salem

Schloss Salem is an impressive ensemble of majestic buildings. It was founded as a Cistercian Abbey in 1134, when Bernard de Clairvaux ventured from his home base Burgundy to establish Cistercian monasteries on the eastern banks of the Rhine river. In a very short time Salem Abbey developed into one of the leading abbeys in southern Germany.

Pictures: Touring Salem Castle/ Abbey

Salem Abbey experienced a second period of affluence during the Baroque era. It is fascinating to see the Gothic buildings, in particular the cathedral decorated with its unique alabaster plasterwork and the ornately Baroque style decorated rooms in the Palace.

After secularization during the Napoleonic era, Salem came into the possession of the Markgraf von Baden, the ruler of the Kingdom of Baden, and became Schloss Salem.

In the early 2000, Margrave of Baden sold Schloss Salem to the State of Baden Württemberg. But he retained all vineyards. The cellars and other parts of the Schloss Salem he uses for winemaing, are long-term leased from the State of Baden Wurttemberg.

Pictures: Touring Salem Castle/ Abbey

Schloss Salem is also home of the prestigious boarding school Schule Schloss Salem. Kurt Hahn, a respected educator, who later was instrumental in establishing the International School system and the IB (International Baccaleurate) founded the school in 1920 with support of Prince Max of Baden. The student dorms are in the former monk cells and the monk’s spirit and simplicity of life can still be felt today.

Winemaking at Salem

For many centuries, the church was the only one dominant force in the wine industry at Lake Constance and from 1134, when Salem Abbey was founded by Cistercian monks, until Napoleon’s secularization in 1802, and Salem Abbey was a center of winemaking in the region.

Pictures: Winemaking at Salem Abbeyin the Middle Ages

In 1802, Salem Abbey passed into the hand of the ruler of Baden, the Margrave of Baden, and became Schloss Salem. (Similarly, the Staatsweingut Meersburg, owned by the Prince-Bishop of Constance at that time, also passed into the hands of the Margrave von Baden during Napoleon’s secularization in 1802.)

Before the secularization, when the Margrave of Baden became the owner of both the Salem and the Meersburg abbeys, including the vineyards, the House of Baden was completely absent from the Lake Constance area, as far as winemaking is concerned. The original base of the House of Baden is Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, with 25 hectares of vineyard land.

While the Government of (the State of) Baden, as the successor of the Grand Duchy of Baden, took over the Staatsweingut Meersburg in 1918, it did not take over Schloss Salem, which became the private property of the Margrave of Baden.

In the Federal Republic of Germany of today, the states of Baden and Wuettemberg have been merged to form the State of Baden Wuerttemberg. In the early 2000, the Margrave of Baden sold Schloss Salem to the State of Baden Wuerttemberg. But he retained all vineyards. The cellars and other parts of the Schloss Salem he uses, are long-term leased from the State of Baden Wuerttemberg.

Pictures: Weingut Markgraf von Baden/ Schloss Salem

Weingut Markgraf von Baden

The House of Baden is deeply rooted into wine making. It owns estates in two different wine districts of Baden: In the Ortenau and in the Lake Constance regions.

Picture: Tasting List - Weingut Markgraf von Baden/ Schloss Salem

The vineyard area of Schloss Salem totals 110 hectares in Bermatingen, Birnau and Schloss Kirchberg. Varieties planted here are mainly Müller-Thurgau and Pinot Noir (for Weißherbst/blanc de Noir). The wines are produced at Schloss Salem. Also, bottle-fermented sparkling wines, perlé wines and spirits are also produced. In addition, there are about 10 hectares of vineyard area along the Rhein river, close to the Swiss border.

Pictures: White Wine Tasting

The von Baden family had a decisive influence on viticulture in Baden. Großherzog (grand duke) Carl-Friedrich von Baden (1738-1811) is regarded as the creator of quality wine production in Baden. In 1782, he brought in 3.500 Riesling vines from the Rheingau region. These were planted as a single variety for the first time at the Grossherzog’s Klingelberg property. In the 1920s, the Margrave of Baden was the first estate in Baden to show faith in the new variety Müller-Thurgau. Since 1998, Bernhard Prinz von Baden has continued the viticultural tradition and manages the Schloss Salem Estate. He also lives there.

Pictures: Red Wine Tasting

The original base of the von Baden family is Schloss Staufenberg in the Ortenau, with 25 hectares of vineyard land. This were the only vineyards of the von Baden family until they received the Lake Constanze vineyards as part of Napoleon’s secularization.

Schloss Salem, Germany
Owner: S.K.H. Bernhard Prinz von Baden
Managers: Sebastian Beemelmans and Volker Faust
Managing director: S.K.H. Bernhard Prinz von Baden
Cellar master: Martin Kölble
www.markgraf-von-baden.de

Lunch

We had lunch at Restaurant Zm Schwanen on the grounds of Schloss Salem.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Zum Schwanen

Basilica Birnau

The Basilica Birnau is a Baroque jewel and sits majestically on a hill high above Lake Constance. It was built in 1749 and has been a pilgrimage church since then. The interior is richly decorated in the Rococo style and the church is one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in all of Germany, not least because of its unrivalled position overlooking Lake Constance and its surrounding vineyards. The church is still in the hands of the Cistercian monks.

Pictures: At Basilica Birnau at Lake Constanze

Back in Meersburg

In the evening, we took a stroll through Meersburg and enjoyed the incredible charm of Meersburg and Lake Constance.

Picture: Romantik Hotel Residenz am See in Meersburg

Pictures: Staatsweingut Meersburg

Pictures: Meersburg

Pictures: At Weinhaus Hanser in Meersburg

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