schiller-wine

Picture: Charcuterie at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion

Following the tasting of the wines of Jean Luc Thunevin, including the famous Château Valandraud and the popular Bad Boy, at the „garage“, where the amazing career of Jean Luc Thunevin began ...

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Jean Luc Thunevin in Saint Emilion

... we went to Chai Pascal for a simple dinner. We had charcuterie and fromage, paired with a 2012 Château Gaillard and a 2010 Abel brut nature, a Crémant de Bordeaux.

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Pictures: Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion

There is only a very limited number of wine bars in St. Emilion. Chai Pascal, 37, Rue Guadet, is my favorite. Chai Pascal is a small, relaxed place, with lovely wines and a limited but interesting food menu. Note that there is only one chef in the kitchen.

Chai Pascal is run by Pascal Fauvel, and Catherine Papon-Nouvel, the owner of three St. Emilion chateaux: Château Gaillard, Château Petit Gravet Ainé and Clos Saint Julien. Catherine’s wines are of course on offer but also many of her colleagues’ wines.

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Pictures: Christian and Annetter Schiller at Chai Pascal with Owner Catherine Papon-Nouvel at an Earlier Visit

We concluded the evening with a night tour of Saint Emilion, from 10 pm to 11 pm.

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Pictures: Night-Tour of Saint Emilion

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuis - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting were it all Started: At the "Garage" of Jean-Luc Thunevin, Owner and Winermaker of Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 2012 - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Charcuterie and Cheese at Chez Pascal

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darozze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

Tour of Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Grande Vigne (at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte)

Tour of the new Musee du Vin in Bordeaux City

Seafood lunch at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Michel Tesseron

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch were the Locals eat: At Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe in Saint Estephe

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux, Appellation Margaux, 1ière Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Picnic Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin

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Picture: The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA

Annette Schiller, President of ombiasy PR and WineTours and member of the American Wine Society, led two German wine tastings at the 2016 Annual Meetings of the American Wine Society in the Los Angeles area: The New Germany - Red, Dry and Sparkling and The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification.

This posting covers the first tasting. It is part of a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2016 in California:

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

The New Germany: Red, Dry, Sparkling - Annette Schiller, President of Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller, President of Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

The Insider’s View of Charles Krug Winery - Peter Mondavi Jr., Co-Proprietor, Charles Krug Winery
Bordeaux: the Grands Crus Classes 2013 Vintage - Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications Marketing

Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens & Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist

The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings took place on November 2 - 5, 2016, at the Hilton Orange County in Costa Mesa, South of Los Angeles. More than 400 members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations.

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Picture: The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings

Prominent participants included: Joel Peterson, Founder of Ravenswood Winery; Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens; Peter Mondavi Jr., Co-Proprietor, Charles Krug Winery, Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications Marketing and Randall Grahm, Bonny Doon Vineyard.

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Pictures: Selfies at the 2016 American Wine Society National Conference with Peter Mondavi Jr., Co-Proprietor, Charles Krug Winery, Bérénice Lurton, Owner/ Winemaker, Château Climens in Bordeaux, Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications Marketing and Randall Grahm, Bonny Doon Vineyard.

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Pictures: Peter Mondavi Jr. at the ombiasy WineTours Booth

The New Germany: Red, Dry, Sparkling - Annette Schiller, President of Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

Annette presented 2 red wines, 1 Sekt (sparkling wine) and 3 dry white wines from 6 wine regions in Germany.

2011 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Spätburgunder trocken, Gutswein, Pfalz
2015 Weingut Schnaitmann, Lemberger Steinwiege trocken, Gutswein, Württemberg
2013 Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut, Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau
2015 Winzerhof Stahl, Edelstahl, Sonnenstuhl Sylvaner, trocken, Franken
2015 Weingut Schätzel, Nierstein Riesling ReinSchiefer, trocken, Ortswein, Rheinhessen
2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe, Kloster Heiligkreutz, Weissburgunder trocken, Sachsen

Annette Schiller led a similar tasting - with more wines - at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) a week before. See: The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

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Pictures: Getting Ready

Germany is increasingly becoming known as a serious red wine producer; Germany is the #3 producer world-wide of Pinot-Noir (= Spätburguder).

Germans have always been obsessed with sparkling wines: 1 out of 4 sparklers produced in the world is consumed in Germany; and Germany is home to the second largest sparkling wine producer world-wide.

Germany is known for its Rieslings. Yes, it is the #1 Riesling producer world-wide, but it is also the #1 Pinot-Blanc (Weissburgunder) and #2 Pinot-Gris (Grauburgunder) producer. And, today, most of the white wines produced in Germany are dry.

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Pictures: The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA

All presented winemakers, Annette knows personally. She has visited all of them on one of the wine tours to Germany (Germany-East, Germany-South and Germany-Nord). Annette shared memories from these visits.

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Picture: The Wines

RED

30 or 40 years ago, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, we are well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.

2011 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Spätburgunder trocken, Gutswein, Pfalz

Stuart Pigott: The estate of the Rebholz family is one of the modern legends of the Pfalz. Since the end of World War II, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, which is now following the biodynamic winemaking approach, is on an upward trend, with a strong innovative push. Its most recent innovative phase was the development of the ultra-premium Grosses Gewächs wines of the grape varieties Riesling, Pinot Blanc (white wines) and Pinot Noir (for red wines), beginning in the end of the 1990s. Today, the Rebholz Grosses Gewächs wines belong to the best the Pfalz and Germany has to offer in this category.

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Picture: 2011 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Spätburgunder trocken, Gutswein, Pfalz

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Picture: Annette Schiller, David Schildknecht and Hannsjörg Rebholz, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz. in New York. We will Taste a Weingut Ökonomierat Rebhalz at the Friday Session. See also: Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

2015 Weingut Schnaitmann, Lemberger Steinwiege trocken, Gutswein, Württemberg

More wine is consumed in Württemberg (per capita) than anywhere else in Germany - actually twice as much as in the rest of Germany. The German poet Friedrich von Schiller wrote already several centuries ago: “A Württemberger without wine--is that a real Württemberger?” Yet, the wines of Württemberg are very difficult to find outside of Germany. This is changing slowly, as the world is discovering the outstanding German red wines.

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Picture: 2015 Weingut Schnaitmann, Lemberger Steinwiege trocken, Gutswein, Württemberg

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Picture: Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

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Picture: Vineyard Tour with Rainer Schnaitmann, Weingut Schnaitmann, Württemberg

See also: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

SEKT

Not well known, Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One of four bottles of sparkling wine produced in the world is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt. Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt houses, who only make Sekt and (iii) winemakers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt estates tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. In addition to Sekt, Germany produces semi-sparkling wine, which is called Perlwein. But the production of Perlwein is small.

2013 Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut, Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau

Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is one the youngest member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers, in the Rheingau. Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is not only a producer of world class Sekt, but also has an impressive portfolio of still wines. In addition, Wein- and Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is part of a larger complex, which also includes a hotel and a restaurant.

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Picture: 2013 Riesling Sekt, Extra Brut, Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau

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Picture: Dinner with Ralf Schönleber, Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau

See: Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

WHITE and DRY

When you travel outside of Germany and check the wine lists of restaurants and retail stores in terms of German wines, you easily get the impression that Germans are hooked on sweet wine. It is the fruity-sweet Riesling style that is so popular in the world and that many equate with German wine and the German’s preference for wine. But this is faulty. Germany drinks dry. Like the rest of the world.

I estimate that 95% of the wine consumed in Germany is dry and sweet-style wines are niche wines in Germany. This is pretty much in line with the consumption patterns in the rest of the world. But the delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings that German winemakers are able to produce, are unique in the world and popular everywhere.

2015 Winzerhof Stahl, Edelstahl, Sonnenstuhl Sylvaner, trocken, Franken

With 3/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016, Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, belongs to the elite of winemakers in Germany. Winzerhof Stahl is in Franken. Like so many other colleagues from this region, Christian L. Stahl’s Franken wines are virtually unknown outside of Germany.

Within Germany, however, Christian has shown a very strong performance. When Christian Stahl took over the winery of his parents about 10 years ago, the vineyard area totaled 2 hectares. Within a decade, he has gone to 20 hectares. When Christian Stahl took over, the winery was not even mentioned in Germany’s wine guides, like the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. Within a decade, he has gone from 0/5 to 3/5 grapes. Christian got the second grape in 2012 and the third grape in 2014. In 2012, Christian Stahl was Falstaff Winemaker Newcomer of the Year 2012. See here: Best German Wines and Winemakers - Falstaff Deutschland Wine Trophies 2012

A year ago, Christian decided to start exporting to the US and tours to Washington DC, Chicago and New York in 2016 to launch his wines into the American market.

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Picture: 2015 Winzerhof Stahl, Edelstahl, Sonnenstuhl Sylvaner, trocken, Franken

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Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Winemaker Christian L. Stahl. See also: Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

2015 Weingut Schätzel, Nierstein Riesling ReinSchiefer, trocken, Ortswein, Rheinhessen

Since Kai Schätzel took over the winery from his parents in 2007, we have seen a remarkable upswing. I was very lucky to be able to follow this amazing development closely. Inter alia, I celebrated my 60th birthday at Weingut Schätzel and 2 of the recent Germany Tours by ombiasy WineTours included a visit of this up-and-coming estate. In the latest development, Weingut Schätzel joined the VDP and started to export to the USA in 2016.

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Picture: 2015 Weingut Schätzel, Nierstein Riesling ReinSchiefer, trocken, Ortswein, Rheinhessen

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Picture: Christian Schiller Tasting with Kai Schätzel at Weingut Schätzel.

See: A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe, Kloster Heiligkreutz, Weissburgunder trocken, Sachsen

Annette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

What it is not so well-known for is its wine. Bordering Poland and the Czech Republic, Sachsen is one of Germany’s small wine regions (360 hectares) and disappeared from the wine map during the communist period.

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Picture: 2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe, Kloster Heiligkreutz, Weissburgunder trocken, Sachsen

During the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance.

The three main grape varieties are Müller-Thurgau, Riesling and Weissburgunder but many others are grown in smaller quantities, including Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Roter Traminer, Kerner, Dornfelder, Goldriesling, Scheurebe and a rarity, Dunkelfelder. The wines are mostly dry (trocken). Most of the wine produced in Sachsen is consumed in the region.

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Picture: Wine Pairing Dinner at Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, with Prinz zur Lippe

See: Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Thanks

A big thank you to all the sponsors:

Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Pfalz (Rudi Wiest Selections)
Weingut Schnaitmann, Württemberg (Rudi Wiest Selections)
Sekt- und Weingut F.B.Schönleber, Rheingau
Winzerhof Stahl, Edelstahl, Franken
Weingut Schätzel, Rheinhessen
Weingut Schloss Proschwitz - Prinz zur Lippe, Sachsen

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Picture: The Sponsors

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

Morton’s Steakhouse Presented Peter Mondavi Jr. at a Charles Krug Winemaker Dinner

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralph and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany

A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

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Picture: Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier

The roots of this domaine go back to the year 1926 when Jean Confuron of Vosne married Anne Marie Bouchard of Prémeaux – vines came from both sides of the family and the newly married couple chose to live in Prémeaux. Today the domaine is in the hands of their granddaughter Sophie who married Alain Meunier.

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Pictures: Arriving

Our host was their son Louis Meunier, who had just came back from working a year in the wine industustrie in Argentina.

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Picture: Louis Meunier

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron

When Jean-Jacques Confuron fell ill in 1982, wife Andrée and daughter Sophie took charge of a sleeping giant among Burgundy domaines. The vines were superbly located in many of the Côte de Nuits' best sites, but the cellars were outdated and the majority of stock was customarily sold to local négociants.

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Pictures: Annette Schiller with Sophie, Alain and Louis Meunier

Everything changed when Sophie Confuron enrolled at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune: she not only discovered a natural talent for winemaking, but also met Alain Meunier, now her husband. The young couple returned to the domaine in 1988, and instigated a veritable quality revolution.

New cellars were constructed in 1989, equipped with the latest technology including pneumatic presses and temperature-control systems. In the vineyards, yields have been significantly reduced, and from 1991 onwards the domaine has been fully "biologique". The wine is no longer sold in bulk, but instead every last bottle is distributed on a tight allocation basis to key customers all around the world.

Alain and Sophie share winemaking responsibilities, and have between them developed a house style that emphasises luscious, rounded fruit and soft, velvety tannins.

The initial cold soak produces deep colour and the right tannins; closed vats and strict temperature control during fermentation maximise fresh, intense fruit flavours and aromas; new oak adds hedonistic appeal, with low yields ensuring that the wines have enough concentration to absorb and balance this oak. The results are quite simply irresistible.

Overwhelming demand has led Alain to create a new "super-négociant" operation, buying grapes which he vinifies and ages with the same care and attention lavished on the J.J. Confuron domaine wines. These are sold under the Féry-Meunier label - see separate factsheet for more details

“In order fully to respect the character of each terroir, we have chosen to use only natural products to treat our vines and have done so since 1990” said Alain said at a dinner in Washington DC a few years ago. He also referred to the parcel of Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru: at eighty years old, it is the oldest in the domaine. Since 2003 he has ploughed it by horse. This is a slow (and costly) job which requires patience and precision but which has the utmost respect for the soil.

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Pictures: Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier

Vineyards

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron has just over 7 hectares, with 12 appellations of the Côte de Nuits. They range from a Côte de Nuits Les Vignottes to the rare Grand Cru Romanée Saint Vivant and Grand Cru Clos Vougeot, through two Chambolle-Musigny: Village and First Cru. The domaine also offers three Nuits-Saint-Georges, a Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Fleurieres Village, a Aux Boudots First Cru, and a Les Chaboeufs First Cru. Let's not forget their Vosne-Romanée 1st Cru Les Beaux-Monts, and their two latest wines: the Côte de Nuits La Montagne white and its red sibling, Côte de Nuits La Montagne rouge, first released with the 2010 vintage, or their Bourgogne Cuvée Jeunesse, the most affordable way of enjoying the Confuron style.

Côte de Nuits Villages, Les Vignottes (1.3 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Fleurières (1.2 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Les Chaboeufs (0.5 ha)
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, Aux Boudots (0.3 ha)
Chambolle-Musigny (1.2 ha)
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (0.4 ha)
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru, Les Beaux-Monts (0.3 ha)
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (0.5 ha)
Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (0.5 ha)

Average Age of Vines:
Village level: 20 to 35 years old
Both 1ers Crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges: 45 years old
Chambolle and Vosne 1ers Crus: 50 years old
Clos Vougeot: 35 years old
Romanée Saint-Vivant: nearly 80 years old

Soil: Rocky limestone marls, with varying proportions of clay depending on the vineyard.

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Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Alain and Sophie Meunier in Washington DC

See: Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, Côte de Nuits, Winemaker Dinner with Owners/Producers Alain and Sophie Meunier at Todd Gray’s Equinox in Washington DC, USA

Vinification and Aging

The reds are sorted and destemmed, but not crushed. There is a cold, pre-fermentation maceration of 4 to 6 days to extract colour and soft, velvety tannins; the vats remain closed to preserve freshness. Gentle heating induces fermentations, which continue for 12 days at temperatures of around 30°C, with 3 pigeages a day. The young wine is drawn off into barrel for malolactic and subsequent ageing of 15 to 18 months. The Grands Crus see up to 100% new oak, the 1ers Crus 70%. Racking is kept to a minimum, and there is neither fining nor filtration before bottling.

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron produces 3000 cases annually.

Bye-bye

Thanks to Sophie, Alain and Louis for a wonderful tasting from barrel.

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Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours:From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George with Thibault Liger-Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

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Pictures: Christian Schiller and Dorothee Zillike at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany. See: Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany. Annette Schiller and Hanno Zilliken at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken. See: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017). In addition, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken was promoted from 4/5 to 5/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 and is now one of 13 wine producers in Germany with 5 grapes in the Gault Millau.

Hanno Zilliken is a living legend in the Saar. Taking over the estate with the baroque, botrytis-inflected 1976 vintage, the wines of Zilliken have epitomized the lightness and elegance of Saar Riesling for well over 30 years. There are many who feel the 2005 vintage marked Hanno’s crowning achievement; this is a legendary collection. Yet, the best of Zilliken may still be to come; Hanno’s daughter, Dorothee, has been working with her father since 2007 and is in a great position to continue the estate.

Joel B. Payne: An impressive cellar with nearly 100 percent humidity, perfectly maintained wooden barrels, in which the most brilliant of all Saar wines are made. Hanno Zilliken, assisted by his daughter Dorothee, produces sleek, radiantly clear Rieslings from the wines in the liter bottle to his noble sweet gems. His wines are truly timeless, far from any fashion!

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area.

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Pictures: We visited Weingut Zilliken earlier this year on the Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours. See: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

The Zilliken family traces its winegrowing tradition back to 1742. Royal Prussian Forest Superintendent Ferdinand Geltz (1985 –1925) however laid the groundwork for what would become one of the grandest family-owned estates in the Mosel appellation. He was also co-founder of the Association of Elite Wine Estates (VDP). Today Hanno Zilliken and daughter Dorothee, both gifted winemakers run the estate with Hanno’s wife Ruth overseeing sales. The 27 acres of vineyard are planted with 100% Riesling. For generations the family owns parcels in the famous Saarburger Rausch, a spectacular steep site with unique climatic conditions. The wines are very slowly fermented in aged wooden casks in the deepest cellar in the Saar valley – three stories beneath the earth’s surface with humidity and cool temperatures of around 11 degrees Celsius. The bottled Rieslings are stored here too, sometimes for decades. I quote the Zillikens: “Our wines are intended to mature. Many wines take decades to mature.”

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken produces 100% Riesling wines, of which about 80% is fermented in a sweet style. 70% of the production is exported. In the US, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken has been in the portfolio of Rudi Wiest Selection for a long time.

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Pictures: Hanno Zilliken at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York. See: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

Riesling from New York to Tokyo

Dorothee Zilliken: From uncomplicated and fresh estate wines to elegant bottles destined to accompany fine meals and sweet, late harvest wines that will only begin to mature and develop ten years after harvest, Zilliken Rieslings are beloved by aficionados from New York to Tokyo. Wine critics proclaim: Geltz Zilliken's wines are a perpetual player in the international Champion's League of wine. Put simply, they are among the finest Rieslings the world has to offer.

We aren't influenced by international trends and styles (except perhaps by a name like 'Butterfly'). We instead focus on timeless tradition, beginning with our labels, the same as those our grandfather placed on his bottles. There are no compromises when it comes to quality; we do things as they have always been done. Our dry Rieslings stand proudly in our portfolio, shoulder to shoulder with their better-known noble sweet counterparts — Auslese, Trockenbeeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The best of these wines will be sent to auction.

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC. See: German Wine Dinner with Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

History

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is located in the Saar Valley, which belongs to the Mosel district, very close to France and Luxembourg. Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a founding member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925).

In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno Zilliken started in 1976 as cellar master and took ownership in 1981.

In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee Zilliken, who led the winetasting in Frankfurt am Main, joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim University and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau. Dorothee is married to Philipp Zilliken (nee Hoffmann), who is a career changer and recently started to work at the estate.

Vineyard

With a vineyard area of 11 hectares, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a small estate. It is a family-run estate, with only 2 full-time employees and seasonal workers for the harvest. All grapes are sourced from its two VDP.Grosse Lage vineyards: Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein, including for its popular “Butterfly” wine.

Saarburger Rausch - Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein - Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

Wine Cellar

The Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken wine cellar is very special. I have heard this from many sources and Dorothee talked quite a bit about the cellar: We have a very old cellar. It's 100 years old and it's very dark, humid and cold. The humidity is always between 95% and 99% so it very high and looks like a cave that is always dropping. It's very good for our corks. When we close the cork it stays very soft and gentle which is perfect for the storage conditions. Especially for the normal sweet wines we can store them for: 30, 40 or 50 years in our cork cellar without recorking them. So these corks will always stay in the bottle which is perfect.

We are fermenting all our wines in our German oak barrels and not those stainless steel tanks but small barrels. The content is about 1000 liters and is toasted inside giving a flavor vanilla aroma to the wine. These German barrels are none toasted so they are neutral and not giving any flavors. However, we think that it's worth to work with these German barrels because they are rounding the wine a bit and gives the wine more harmony. From the working point of view, it would be much easier to have these tank steel barrels but we will then miss more taste in the mouth.

Riesling

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a 100% Riesling producer. Dorothee Zilliken: We are just producing the Riesling grape variety. We think it's more worth to produce it there because we have a Devonian Slate terroir, which is the best condition for growing Riesling. We have very steep mountains vineyards that are between 30 and 60 degrees of steepness. We are only harvesting by hand which is very important for us because then you can safe all the quality of the grapes. Because if you are taking the housing machine and run through the vineyard lines it will also be catching as for example a lot of leaves and the pressure on the grapes is too high. This is the reason why we are only harvesting by hand.

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Pictures: Annette Schiller and Dorothee Zilliken at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany. See: Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

US Importer Rudi Wiest on Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925). As an affirmation of his achievements, the estate still carries his name. In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno started on in 1976 as cellarmaster and took ownership in 1981. In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrad in the Rheingau.

The estate has one of the most unique cellars anywhere. It is three levels below ground and the deepest cellar in the Saar. It offers an unparalleled environment with near 100% humidity and a constant cool temperature of about 48°F. It is here that the wines are fermented and matured in German oak (neutral) 1,000 liter barrels also known as Fuders. This cool, damp environment provides optimal conditions to produce Rieslings with great aging potential. Quintessential Saar Rieslings! For example, top wines from the great 1983 vintage are still timelessly fresh.

The estate owns 11 ha of great Saar vineyards, planted 100% to Riesling and produces about 7,000 cs a year. The following Grand Cru vineyards are instrumental for the greatness of the estate:

Saarburger Rausch- Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein- Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

The Zilliken Estate was a founding member of the Mosel VDP.

Previous Years' Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Winemakers of the Year

Here is a list of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland Winemakers of the Year of previous years:

Peter Jakob Kühn, Weingut Kühn, see: Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2016 Awards: The Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Phlipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann, see: Best German Wines and Winemakers: Gault Millau Awards – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014

Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger, see: Best German Wines and Wine Makers – the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 Awards

Matthias Müller, Weingut Matthias Müller, see: 2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012

Johannes Leitz, Weingut Leitz, see: Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany 2011– Ratings

Tim Fröhlich, Weingut Schäfer Fröhlich, see: Gault Millau Wine Germany 2010

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

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Picture: Tasting with Prince Eudes d’Orléans, Managing Director at Château de Fargues

The story of Château de Fargues in 1306 when a nephew of Pope Clement V, Cardinal Raymond Guilheim de Fargues bought the property and built a fortress with solid walls and rough stones not at all resembling what we imagine of a “Château”. For more than 500 years, the estate is in the same hands since it had been acquired through marriage by the Lur-Saluces family, a powerful aristocratic family of Southern France, who also owned Château Coutet and Château d’Yquem, among others, until the end of the 20th century.

Château de Fargues is a very large estate of mixed farming with 425 acres of land: 250 acres of woods, a system of artificial ponds, a breeding area, cattle pastures, about 65 acres of arable crops and 62 acres under vine. However, producing a “Sauternes” only started in the late thirties of the 20th century when the father of the current owner Marquis Bertrand de Lur-Saluces converted 25 acres of vineyards from red varieties to Semillion and Sauvignon-Blanc. Alexandre de Lur- Saluces continued the work of his father and today 42 acres are planted with white varieties. The vineyards are farmed with respect to the soil; there is no use of herbicides, as fertilizer the cow manure is used instead.

Our host was Prince Eudes d’Orléans, 3rd in line of the throne, should a monarchy be reinstituted in France, who is the Managing Director at Château de Fargues.

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Pictures: Welcome at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Château de Fargues

Château de Fargues produces a noble-sweet Sauternes wine that was not classified in 1855 for the simple reason that the property did not make any wine at the time. After more than 500 years, the owner is still the Lur-Saluces family, which also owned Yquem for more than two hundred years. Not surprisingly, the two wines are quite close in style, if only for the reason that both wines receive identical care and attention to detail in the vineyard and in the cellar.

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Pictures: Tour of Château de Fargues

Alexandre de Lur Saluces: At Château de Fargues, nature and man work together to produce perfectly ripe grapes subject to the capricious effects of Botrytis cinerea. This microscopic fungus concentrates and multiplies the aromas found in the two grape varieties grown at the château, while reflecting the unique characteristics of its terroir. This mysterious alchemy and an extraordinary combination of factors accounts for the rare and precious Sauternes made by Château de Fargues – an invitation to an uncommon pleasure, a delicious taste experience, a special moment to share, and a time to celebrate…

Paradoxically, Château de Fargues has one of the shortest histories for producing sweet wine, but one of the longest of all the Sauternes châteaux. The château was built in 1306 by the Cardinal Raymond Guilhem, nephew of Bertrand de Goth, elected Pope Clement V in 1305. In 1472 Isabeau de Monferrand, heiress of Château de Fargues, married Pierre de Lur. The family name became Lur-Saluces after Jean de Lur married the daughter of the Marquis de Saluces in 1586. Today it is Alexandre de Lur-Saluces who is at the head of the property.

Wine production at the château only began in the nineteenth century. The first mention of it in the famed book on Bordeaux wines by Cocks and Feret is in 1893, and it concerns red wine. Throughout the early decades of the twentieth century, the size of the vineyard diminished. It was only around 1935 that Bertrand de Lur-Saluces, Alexandre’s uncle, planted white grapes.

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Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

The first vintage (1943) sold under the name Château de Fargues was bottled in 1947, and 1964 was the first year in which no Château de Fargues was produced. This is because the quest for perfection precludes making Sauternes in keeping with Fargues high standards in each and every vintage. When it is felt that quality is wanting, the painful decision is made not to bottle any wine at all under the château name. This was the case in 1972, 1974, and 1992.

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Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans (2015)

Perpetuating Bertrand de Lur Saluces’ implacable focus on quality, his nephew Alexandre accelerated the estate’s transformation and renovation. As he did previously at Yquem, he refurbished and readapted all the buildings, and renewed the winemaking equipment necessary to make great Sauternes.

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Pictures: In the Cellar of Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

In 1982, he installed the first winepress adapted to grapes in Sauternes, in 1989 the ageing cellar was renovated and enlarged, in 1996 a second back-up press was acquired, in 1997 the fermentation cellar was refurbished, and in 1998 a new room was built to house the winepresses and vats. In 2005, a third winepress was put in and in 2006 a semi-underground storage cellar was constructed at the same time as new offices.

So, from the 1930s when the first hectare and half of white wine varieties were planted, Château de Fargues had come a very long way… A few more hectares of vines were planted each decade. By the mid-1990s, the vineyard reached over 13 hectares. The average life span of the vines at Fargues is 60 to 80 years. In 2000, the first white wine vines were replanted. At Fargues, standards are such that vines need to be at least 7-8 years old to make wine worthy of the grand vin. Starting from that age, they produce grapes that, when botrytised, succeed in revealing the characteristics of each vintage.

Today the property stretches over 170 hectares, but only 17 of them are planted to vine on top of a mound near a pine forest to the east of the Fargues commune.

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Pictures: Tasting with Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

The grape mix is 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon. There is a diversity of soil types here but in general the soil, like in great vineyards, is poor, composed of chalk and stony gravel with a sub-soil containing clay. The microclimate of Sauternes works its wonders here in the classic mould, but the harvest is on average 10 days later than Yquem. The production is tiny with yields even smaller than those at Yquem. All the recent vintages of the emerging 21st century have been particularly successful. The only problem remains the rarity of the wine because of the small production of only 20 000 bottles per year.

Wine Searcher Prices (in US$ per bottle)

2013: 181
2011: 119
2009: 128
2008: 106

Bye-bye

The visit was most interesting. Thanks Prince Eudes d’Orléans.

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Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dining and Wining on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris: La Rotonde, Le Dôme and La Coupole, France – Pre-Bordeaux Wine Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuis - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting were it all Started: At the "Garage" of Jean-Luc Thunevin, Owner and Winermaker of Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 2012 - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darozze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

Tour of Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Grande Vigne (at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte)

Tour of the new Musee du Vin in Bordeaux City

Seafood lunch at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Michel Tesseron

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch were the Locals eat: At Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe in Saint Estephe

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux, Appellation Margaux, 1ière Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Picnic Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag

Lieser is a small wine village on the bank of the Mosel river and its landmark is a mighty slate castle, once belonging to the Barons of Schorlemer.

In 1904, Clemens Baron of Schorlemer, Secretary of Agriculture in the Prussian government of Emperor William II, built Weingut Schloss Lieser next to the castle and produced some of the greatest wines of the Mosel region.

Today, Weingut Schloss Lieser is owned and managed by the gifted winemaker Thomas Haag. It ranks among Germany‘s top producers.

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Pictures: Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser

Weingut Schloss Lieser

Thomas Haag has been the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser since 1992 and its owner since 1997. Schloss Lieser – a mighty castle – is the landmark of Lieser, a tiny, quaint Mosel village, built in 1875 by Baron von Schorlemer. Weingut Schloss Lieser was founded in 1904 and produced some of the greatest wines in the Mosel region. In the second half of the 1900s, however, the estate passed through several hands and went into decline.

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Pictures: Schloss Lieser in Lieser

Thomas Haag entered the picture in 1992, when he was appointed General Manager of Weingut Schloss Lieser. In 1997, Thomas Haag purchased the estate out of bankruptcy. From then on, Weingut Schloss Lieser went only one way: upwards. Today, Weingut Schloss Lieser is again one of the great estates in the Mosel region, and in all of Germany.

Thomas Haag is the son of winemaker Wilhelm Haag (who was Germany’s Winemaker of the Year 1994) and the brother of winemaker Oliver Haag. He grew up on the famous Weingut Fritz Haag in Brauneberg. The first record of Weingut Fritz Haag is from 1605, with the Haag family having continuous ownership since that time. Wilhelm Haag was in charge of Weingut Fritz Haag until 2005, when he retired and handed over to Thomas Haag’s younger brother, Oliver Haag.

Thomas Haag was the Winemaker of the Year - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. In addition, Thomas Haag got the Best Riesling Spätlese Award of the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015. Last, but not least, Weingut Schloss Lieser was promoted to the 5 (out of 5) grapes group of (11) winemakers in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015.

Weingut Schloss Lieser produces 8,000 cases and is a member of the VDP. 60% of the production is exported to 45 countries. A bit less than 50% is produced in a dry-style.

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Pictures: Joel B. Payne, Gault Millau, Thomas Haag, and Father Wilhelm Haag and Christian Schillerin Mainz. See: Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Winemaking Philosophy

Thomas Haag: With an average yield of 55 hectolitres per hectare we attend to a consistent reduction of the yield to ensure the high quality standards that characterize our wines. Using a strict selection process and exclusively manual harvesting that spans across several cycles, only fully ripened grapes will be harvested. Subsequently, a speedy but extremely gentle soft pressing of the grapes takes place. The carefully cleared must is stored according to their different characters in barrels of wood or stainless steel tank. Here, a slow fermentation will kick-start under cool temperatures using entirely natural yeast. When the favored degree of remaining natural residual sugar is attained the traditional decanting is performed. That means the young wine gets separated from the yeast. The remaining residual sugar is consequently an original component of the primordial must so that every aspect of individuality remains.

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Pictures: Thomas Haag

Vineyards

Thomas Haag: The estate Schloss Lieser cultivates a total area of 13 hectares, the majority of is located at the top sites of Lieser Niederberg Helden. Additional top sites are the Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr and Brauneberger Juffer.

Thomas Haag: Starting from scratch by buying the winery without any client base and bottled wine in 1992, we faced the challenge to rehabilitate the winery, its buildings and vineyards: Now we have been rewarded! The Gault & Millau Wine Guide honored us ‘Wine Maker of the Year 2015’ and rewarded our hard work with the 5th grape, the highest category which includes only 11 top-wineries throughout Germany.

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Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

US Importer Rudi Wiest on Weingut Schloss Lieser

Lieser’s landmark is the mighty castle, Schloss Lieser, built in 1875 by Baron von Schorlemer. The Schloss Lieser estate was founded in 1904 and went on to produce some of the greatest wines in the Mosel region. The von Schorlemers started to lose interest and in the 1970s with several different owners the estate went into decline. In 1992, Thomas Haag was appointed General Manager and Cellar Master by yet another owner. There was no inventory and there were no customers. Thomas immediately served notice by producing superb wines in 1992 and 1993. In 1997 the Haags purchased the estate out of bankruptcy and Thomas took command as the new owner. With the experience of working with his father, the great Wilhelm Haag, and his studies at Geisenheim it didn’t take long for Thomas to bring the estate back to its former glory. It is today again one of the great estates in the Mosel region. Thomas is a believer in “wild” yeast fermentation; he produces superb fruity style and noble sweet wines but also some of the greatest dry Rieslings in the region.

The estate has ownership in the following great vineyards:

Lieser Niederberg Helden: decomposed, softer slate, deeper soiled (good water maintenance)
Brauneberger Juffer: decomposed devon slate.
Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr: decomposed devon slate; it is the “filet” piece of the Juffer and benefits from its closeness to the Mosel River.

The Schloss Lieser Estate produces 8,000 cases and is a member of the VDP.

Tasting

2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Riesling Kabinett trocken

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2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, HELDEN Spätlese trocken

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2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Riesling feinherb

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2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Juffer Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage
2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage

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2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Niederberger Helden Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage
2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

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2015 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Niederberger Helden Auslese VDP.Grosse Lage
1999 Weingut Schloss Lieser – Thomas Haag, Niederberger Helden Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

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Bye-bye

Thanks Thomas for a wonderful couple of hours with you and your wines.

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Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Bourgogne in Riesling Land: Tasting at Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralp and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps

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Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Chef Martin Scharff, Scharffs Schlossweinstube, and Thomas Simon, Weingut Kassner-Simon

This year, Collegium Vini, an association of winelovers in the Frankfurt am Main region, had the final event of 2016, the Holiday Dinner, at Scharffs Schlossweinstube in Heidelberg. Chef Thomas Scharff prepared a wonderful 4-course menu. Winemaker/ owner Thomas Simon of Weingut Kassner-Simon in Freinsheim in the Pfalz region poured and introduced us to his excellent wines. The dinner was preceeded by a tour of the Heidelberger Schloss.

Scharffs Schlossweinstube

Scharffs Schlossweinstube is a 1 Star Michelin Restaurant located right in the middle of the Heidelberg castle. You dine and wine at 1 star Michelin level in the famous Heidelberger Schloss.

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Pictures: Restaurant Schlossweinstube

Michelin Guide: This restaurant is situated in the midst of the world famous ruins of Heidelberg Castle. It boasts various historic dining rooms and a lovely terrace with a view of the castle courtyard. In the kitchen Martin Scharff works alongside a talented chef who combines a modern culinary style with sophisticated presentation.

Martin Scharff

Martin Scharff was awarded a Michelin star at age 27, when he was the Chef at Restaurant Hotel Eisenkrug in Dinkelsbühl (between 1991 and 2001). Since then he has been awarded a Michelin star for 25 consecutive years. When Chef Martin Scharff received the Michelin star for the first time, he was the youngest chef of a Michelin-starred restaurant in Germany.

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Pictures: Chef Martin Scharff and Christian Schiller

In 2012, Martin Scharff took over the various restaurants of the Heidelberger Schloss, including the Schlossweinstube.

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Pictures: Chef Martin Scharff and Klaus Schubäus, Collegium Vini

Martin Scharff is also known for providing the catering for the Berlinale and the Bambi Awards. In the earlier years of his career, he also worked with Jörg Müller in Westerland and Harald Wohlfahrt in Baiersbronn.

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Pictures: Chef Martin Scharff with Annette and Christian Schiller

Weingut Kassner-Simon

Weingut Kassner-Simon is a 1 grape Gault Millau Weingut in the Pfalz. The vineyard area totals 16,5 hectares. Weingut Kassner-Simon came into being in 1949, when Mathilde Kassner married Willi Simon. Today it is run by Thomas Simon. Weingut Kassner-Simon has 1 grape in the Gault Millau Guide.

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Pictures: Thomas Simon, Weingut Kassner-Simon, with Annette and Christian Schiller

Sommelier Onel-Onelio Mordes y Fernandez (who was borne in Cuba) selected the producer: We like to show hidden gems, wineries that are not yet in the limelight but produce top level wines. That‘s why we chose Weingut Kassner-Simon for this event.

Tour of the Heidelberg Castle

Heidelberg Castle is one of Germany‘s most famous castles. In fact, it is a ruin, because the castle has only been partially rebuilt since its demolition in the 17th and 18th centuries. The earliest castle structure was built before 1214 and later expanded into two castles circa 1294; however, in 1537, a lightning-bolt destroyed the upper castle. The present structures had been expanded by 1650, before damage by later wars and fires. In 1764, another lightning-bolt caused a fire which destroyed some rebuilt sections.

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Pictures: Pre-dinner Tour of the Heidelberg Castle

Dinner at Schlossweinstube

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2009 Weingut Kassner-Simon Riesling Sekt brut

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Amuse Bouche

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Amuse bouche

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Variationen von Stubenküken und Gänseleber an Alblinsen-Apfel-Vanille-Salat mit altem Balsamico und Feldsalatsprösslingen

2015 Weingut Kassner-Simon Spätlese „Gross“ Goldkapsel Freinsheimer Oschelskopf
2013 Weingut Kassner-Simon Spätlese Freinsheimer Oschelskopf

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Waller auf Acquerello Risotto mit Kalbskopf und eingelegtem Kürbis

2014 Weingut Kassner-Simon Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken Freinsheim im Tal
2013 Weingut Kassner-Simon Riesling Spätlese Trocken „Gross“ Freinsheimer Oschelskopf

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Hirschkalbsrücken unter Macadamia-Pimpernellenkruste mit Pastinake und Rosenkohllaub

2014 Weingut Kassner-Simon Spätburgunder Alte Rebe Trocken Silberkapsel Freinsheimer Schwarzes Kreuz
2012 Weingut Kassner-Simon Kostbar Rotweincuvee Trocken Barrique

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Birnen-Karamellschnitte mit Birnenchutney, Muskateis und Brioche

2015 Weingut Kassner-Simon Rieslaner Auslese Goldkapsel Freinsheimer Oschelskopf
2012 Weingut Kassner-Simon Rieslaner Beerenauslese Freinsheimer Oschelskopf

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Coffee

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Bye-bye

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Picture: Gerda Machau, Collegium Vini, and Sommelier Onel-Onelio Mordes y Fernandez, Scharffs Schlossweinstube

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Slate meets Limestone (Schiefer trifft Muschelkalk): Weingut Hofmann in Rheinhessen and Weingut WillemsWillems in the Saar, Germany

What is a Slow Wine? German Slow Wine Tasting with Kai Wagner in Bad Homburg, Germany

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

The annual German Red Wine Competition (Deutscher Rotweinpreis), organized by the international wine magazine Vinum, exists since 1987. At that time, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine production. Today, we are well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.

This year, over 1300 wines were submitted for the competition. The wines were grouped into 8 categories.

26 German red wine producers were asked to enter the stage at the award ceremony of the 30th German Red Wine Award, which took place in the Fellbach “Alte Kelter” a few weeks ago. With 9 producers, the Pfalz was the most successful region, followed by Württemberg with 7 producers, Baden with 4 producers, Rheinhessen and the Ahr region with 3 producers each.

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Picture: At the Ceremony in the Fellbach "Alte Keller" (Photo: Facebook)

PINOT NOIR

Two Winners

2013 Pinot Noir Réserve Pfalz – Weingut Bernhard Koch, Hainfeld
2014 Meersburg Mocken „3 Lilien“ Baden – Weingut Aufricht, Meersburg-Stetten

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Pictures: Tasting Room, Christian G.E.Schiller with Manfred Aufricht and View of the Aufricht Estate and Vineyard with Lake Constance. See: The Lake Wines of the Aufricht Brothers, from Lake Constance in Germany

3. Place

2012 Oppenheimer Herrenberg Réserve Rheinhessen – Weingut Manz, Weinolsheim
2013 Laumersheimer Kirschgarten Pfalz – Weingut Zelt, Laumersheim
2013 Burggarten „R“ Ahr – Weingut Burggarten, Heppingen

CUVÈES

Winner

2011 AnnA Baden – Weingut Seeger, Leimen

2. Place

2014 „Chapelle“ Baden – Weingut Martin Wassmer, Bad Krozingen-Schlatt

3. Place

2009 „Zeitreise“ Pfalz – Weingut Darting, Bad Dürkheim

INTERNATIONAL CLASSICS

Winner

2014 Syrah Heiligenberg Pfalz – Weingut Stachel, Maikammer

2. Place

2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Kalkgestein Pfalz – Weingut Siegrist, Leinsweiler

3. Place

2011 Merlot Réserve Rheinhessen – Weingut Braunewell, Essenheim

LEMBERGER

Winner

2013 ***Württemberg – Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheim

2. Place

2011 „X“ Württemberg – Weingut G.A. Heinrich, Heilbronn

3.Place

2012 Fellbacher Lämmler „P“ Großes Gewächs Württemberg – Fellbacher Weingärtner

GERMAN CLASSICS

Winner

2012 Frühburgunder Marienthaler Rosenberg Ahr – Weingut Peter Kriechel, Ahrweiler

2. Place

2013 St. Laurent Réserve Pfalz – Weingut Philipp Kuhn, Laumersheim

3. Place

2014 Frühburgunder Hardtberg Großes Gewächs Ahr – Weingut Kreuzberg, Dernau

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Pictures: We visited Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg during the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016. See: Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

UNDERSTATED VARIETIES

Two Winners

2012 Portugieser Rheinhessen – Weingut Mett & Weidenbach, Ingelheim
2014 Pinot Meunier Pfalz – Weingut Metzger, Grünstadt-Asselheim

3. Place

2011 Wildmuskat Auslese Württemberg – Weingut Amalienhof, Heilbronn

NOBLE SWEET

Winner

2015 St. Laurent/Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc de Noir Beerenauslese Pfalz – Weingut Frey, Essingen

2. Place

2015 Pinot Noir Blanc de Noir Beerenauslese Britzinger Sonnenhole Baden – Winzergenossenschaft Britzingen

3. Platz

2015 Wein aus getrockneten Trauben (Lemberger) Württemberg – Weingärtner Cleebronn-Güglingen

NEW VARIETIES

Winner

2012 Zweigelt „Passion“ Württemberg – Weingut Karl Haidle, Kernen-Stetten

2. Place

2013 Dornfelder Divinus Württemberg – Weinkonvent Dürrenzimmern

3. Place

1991 Dornfelder „Philipp Bassler“ Pfalz – Winzergenossenschaft Weinbiet, Neustadt-Mussbach

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

The Lake Wines of the Aufricht Brothers, from Lake Constance in Germany

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Picture: Light Lunch at La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George

La Cabotte is the best restaurant in Nuits-Saint-George and one of the best restaurants in the Bourgogne region.

We had a light lunch there following our morning visit of Domaine Faiveley ...

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Pictures: At Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George. See: Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

and Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey ...

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Pictures: At Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey. See: Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

and ahead of the afternoon visits of Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George ...

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Pictures: At Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

and of Château du Clos de Vougeot.

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Pictures: Château du Clos de Vougeot. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Michelin: Good times are had by all at this modern, refined and convivial restaurant. It serves gourmet cuisine at reasonable prices in a pleasant, rustic setting and with a short but judicious wine list. Bib Gourmand.

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Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours:From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George with Thibault Liger-Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

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Picture: The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

Annette Schiller, President of ombiasy PR and WineTours and member of the American Wine Society, led two German wine tastings at the 2016 Annual Meetings of the American Wine Society in the Los Angeles area: The New Germany - Red, Dry and Sparkling and The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification.

This posting covers the second tasting. It is part of a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2016 in California:

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller, President of Ombiasy PR & Wine Tours

The Insider’s View of Charles Krug Winery - Peter Mondavi Jr., Co-Proprietor, Charles Krug Winery

Bordeaux: the Grands Crus Classes 2013 Vintage - Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications Marketing

Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens & Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist

The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings took place on November 2 - 5, 2016, at the Hilton Orange County in Costa Mesa, South of Los Angeles. More than 400 members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations.

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Pictures: Peter Mondavi Jr. at the ombiasy WineTours Booth

The New Classification of German Wines – the VDP Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 is the standard classification system in Germany and many winemakers in Germany use this approach. Increasingly, however, German wine producers are moving away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium wines in Germany. Importantly, the members of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany, have all converted to the new classification.

In a nutshell, the VDP is moving to a classification system that resembles very much the classification system in the Bourgogne. The classification of the VDP puts the terroir principle at the center of its classification approach. With the latest modifications of 2012, the absolutely finest vineyards are called Grosse Lage (for the 2011 vintage still called Erste Lage) and dry wines from these super top vineyards are called Grosses Gewächs. Grosses Gewächs wines are the finest dry wines from Germany’s finest vineyards.

The VDP Wine Classification

Wilhelm Weil: “The new VDP Wine Classification System is basically a matrix classification.” On one axis you find the different quality levels of the wines, along the Burgundian terroir approach, with estate wines, village wines, first growth (premier cru) wines and great growth (grand cru) wines.

Following their colleagues in the Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage in the VDP classification. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification has the following 4 quality layers (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

On the other axis, you find the sweetness levels: Trocken, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese as well as Eiswein. Please note that in the new VDP classification system the Prädikats have lost their critical importance that they have in the traditional classification system of 1971 and that they have changed their meaning. In the VDP classification system, they have become an indicator for the sweetness range of the finished wine, while in the traditional classification they are an indicator of the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. Generally, in the new VDP classification system, the Prädikats are to be used exclusively for wines with residual sweetness, “thereby enabling the Prädikats to resume their traditional meaning”, as stated by the VDP.

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Pictures: Getting Ready for the Lecture and Tasting

VDP.Grosse Lage - The Peak of the Pyramid

VDP.Grosse Lage is the peak of the terroir-based pyramid, equivalent to Grand Cru in the Bourgogne. These are the very best vineyards of Germany. Note: For a Grosse Lage vineyard, like in the Bourgogne, you don’t use the village name on the label, just the name of the vineyard.

Maximum yield is at 50hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level. The grapes can be fermented in a dry, fruity-sweet and noble-sweet style.

A dry wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is designated VDP.Grosses Gewächs and labeled Qualitätswein Trocken. A Grosses Gewächs wine is an ultra premium dry wine made from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

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Picture: GG - Grosses Gewächs

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Grosse Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

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Pictures: The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Leading a Tasting at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

VDP.Erste Lage - First Class

VDP.Erste Lage designates first-class vineyards with distinctive characteristics, equivalent to Premier Cru in the Bourgogne. Erste Lage vineyards provide optimal growing conditions, as evidenced over a long period of time.

They are planted with traditional varieties. Maximum yield is at 60hl/ha. The grapes have to be harvested by hand while the sugar content of the grapes at harvest has to be at least at Spätlese level.

A dry wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled Qualitätswein trocken. Note that there is no “VDP.Erstes Gewächs” designation.

A fruity or noble sweet wine from a VDP.Erste Lage is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.

VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha.

A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein Trocken.

A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.

VDP.Gutswein – Entry Level

VDP.Gutsweine are the entry-level wines in the VDP's hierarchy.

Key Elements of the VDP Classification System to Remember

First: Use of the Prädikats Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese only for fruity-sweet wines - As a major innovation, the VDP members have dropped the traditional Prädikats for dry wine. Only wines that have a noticeable level of sweetness carry the traditional Prädikats like Kabinett, Spätlese or Auslese. Thus, if you see Spätlese on the label of a VDP member wine, you can be sure that it is a fruity-sweet Spätlese. “Spaetlese Trocken” or “Kabinett Trocken” does not exist anymore among the VDP members. If you still find it - and you may indeed find it on the shelves - it is due to the number of exceptions which are in force for the transition period.

Second: The Prädikats Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese no longer indicator of ripeness at harvest, but indicator for sweetness of the finished wines - In the 1971 Classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of ripeness at harvest. Thus, for instance, you can have a fruity-sweet Spätlese and a dry Spaetlese. In the VDP classification, the Prädikats Kabinett, Spaetlese and Auslese are an indicator of sweetness of the finished wine (and not of the ripeness at harvest).

Third: All dry wines up to the highest quality level labeled Qualitätswein Trocken - All dry wines up to the highest quality level – the Grosses Gewächs wines from a Grosse Lage vineyard – are labeled Qualitaetswein (QbA) Trocken. A wine made from grapes harvested at Spätlese level and fully fermented to complete dryness, for example, is marketed as QbA wine. And the level of quality would be indicated by the terroir concept (Gutswein, Ortswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage).

This of course does not make it easier for wine consumers to read and understand German wine labels, because the Qualitätswein denomination has a completely different meaning in the standard classification system. There, it indicates that this wine is an entry-level wine of basic quality. In the VDP classification, Qualitätswein does not mean anything, as in the VDP system even the ultra-premium dry wines are labeled as a QbA.

Fourth: Grosses Gewaechs ultra-premium dry wine - The dry counterpart of the fruity-sweet Spätlese and Auslese wines of the VDP are the dry Grosses Gewächs wines. These are ‘Grand Cru” wines made from grapes from a Grosse Lage vineyard, harvested at Spätlese or Auslese level in terms of sugar content and fully fermented so that they become dry. The Grosse Gewächs label is thought to resemble the Grand Cru designation in neighboring France. Here and there, these wines are dry.

Obviously, the Grosses Gewächs label has become obsolete. Grosse Lage Trocken says it all. You do not need the predicate Grosses Gewächs. But the Grosses Gewächs label is well established in the market and recognized by wine consumers.

Fifth: No single vineyard wines below Grosse Lage and Erste Lage - In the VDP classification, only Grosse Lage and Erste Lage vineyards appear on the label. If a wine comes from a vineyard that is not in the exclusive circle of Grosse and Erste Lage, the label will not carry any vineyard name. Instead, it will be either a village wine (with just the village and the name of the winery on the label) or an Estate wine (with just the name of the winery on the label).

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Pictures: The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Leading a Tasting at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

The VDP

The VDP is the world’s oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

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Picture: VDP Logo

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

For more on the new VDP Classification, see:

The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

Tasting with Wines from Loosen Bros.

We tasted wines from each category of the new classification. The wines were sponsored by Loosen Bros., the US importer for: Dr. Loosen (Mosel), Villa Wolf (Pfalz), Robert Weil (Rheingau), Wittmann (Rheinhessen), Maximin Grünhaus (Mosel) and Fritz Haag (Mosel).

We had 6 wines: 3 wines from the highest quality level (Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru) and 1 wine from each of the other 3 quality levels:

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Picture: The 6 Wines Annette Poured

VDP.Gutswein/ Estate Wine: 2015 Weingut Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken

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Picture: 2015 Weingut Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Oliver Haag, Weingut Fritz Haag, in Seattle. See: The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

VDP.Ortswein/ Village Wine: 2014 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken

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Picture: 2014 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken

VDP.Erste Lage/ Premier Cru: 2015 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken

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Picture: 2015 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken

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Picture: Christian Schiller, Martina Weil, Annette Schiller Wilhelm Weil at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala. See also: Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

VDP.Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: 2014 Weingut Wittmann Aulerde Riesling GG

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Picture: 2014 Weingut Wittmann Aulerde Riesling GG

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Pictures: At Weingut Wittmann with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserat-Wittmann. See also: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Philipp Wittmann and Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann at Weingut Wittmann in Westhofen – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

VDP.Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: 2014 Weingut Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG

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Picture: 2014 Weingut Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG

VDP.Grosse Lage/ Grand Cru: 2014 Weingut Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

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Picture: 2014 Weingut Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

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Picture: The German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2013 at Weingut Dr. Loosen. See also: Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

After-Session Discussions

After the session, participants came up to Annette to ask further questions.

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Pictures: After-Session Discussions

Thanks

Thank you very much Loosen Bros. USA, Weingut Fritz Haag, Weingut Robert Weil, Weingut Wittmann and Weingut Dr. Loosen for sponsoring the event.

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Picture: Thank you Ernie

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

Morton’s Steakhouse Presented Peter Mondavi Jr. at a Charles Krug Winemaker Dinner

Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

The new (VDP) Wine Classification in Germany: Tasting Weingut Robert Weil Wines from Gutswein to Grosse Lage Wine

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

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Picture: Wine-pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

Following the visit of Château de Fargues, Sauternes, and ahead of the visit of Château de Chantegrive, Grave, we had a wine pairing lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze in Langon. Restaurant Claude Darroze has 1 star in the Michelin Guide. Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive, joined us for lunch and poured her wines.

Restaurant Claude Darroze in Langon

The restaurant is an ancient stage coach stop in the center of a typical French very laid back country village in the heart of vineyard country Sauternes and Graves. The cuisine of Claude Darroze concentrates on the traditions of France’s South-West region with a sophisticated twist, and every single bite is a culinary delight.

Michelin Guide: This lovely provincial inn with discreet charm perpetuates the traditions of the cuisine of southwest France and serves it with good Bordeaux wines (there are some 600 different bottles). The little extras are worth noting, such as the pleasant terrace beneath the plane trees and the bright, spruce rooms.

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Pictures: Restaurant Claude Darroze

Gault Millau: Une maison de famille depuis quatre générations, aujourd’hui sous la direction de Jean-Charles et Annelie Darroze, qui ont su s’entourer comme il le fallait (en salle, en cuisine) pour conserver à cette institution sa place dans le peloton de tête du canton. La carte évolue gentiment vers plus de modernité tout en conservant une solide assise classique, avec le thon rouge juste snacké pimientos del piquillo piperade d’oignons doux, le pigeon ragoût de petits pois mousseline de carotte fane et la tomate green zebra en dessert, associée à de la fraise, du kiwi et du balsamique blanc. Bonne formule « bistronomique » à 32 € au déjeuner.

Sébastien Putcrabey and David Delieuvin are running the kitchen, under the supervision of Jean-Charles Darroze: Notre cuisine, pleine de saveurs et de gourmandise s'appuie sur des produits de saison et de grande qualité. Nous nous évertuons chaque jour à vous faire partager notre passion et nos émotions, tout en conservant ce que nos parents nous ont transmis, le gout de l'authenticité.

Claude et Marie-Pierre Darozze founded Claude Darroze in 1974 and were in charge until 2010. In 2010, their son Jean-Charles Darroze took over, with his wife Annelie.

The Darroze family

Claude and Jean-Charles Darroze are part of a well-known family of hotel and restaurant owners and Armagnac producers and traders in the Southwest of France. The roots of the Darroze family are in Villeneuve-de-Marsan at the Relais Restaurant and Hotel, which opened in 1895 and was run by the Darroze family for 4 generations (until it closed in 1999). The last chef at the Relais was Francis Darroze, who took over from Jean Darroze, a highly respected chef of the local Landaise cuisine.

Over the years, while running the family restaurant and hotel, Francis Darroze started to get into the Armagnac trade. He developed a talent for hidden treasures in little, out of reach, unknown estates. These first discoveries date back to the 1950s and 1960s. In 1974, Francis Darroze constructed a cellar specifically dedicated to aging and started his business as a trader and producer of vintage Bas-Armagnacs.

His son Marc, a trained oenologist, joined his father to follow in his footsteps in 1996. Today, Marc Darroze is a most respected Armagnac trader and producer. Robert Parker dubbed him ‘The Pope of Armagnac’. Marc learnt his craft from his father Francis and his famous, chef-restaurateur grandfather Jean Darroze.

Robert Parker: I cannot claim to have tasted all the finest Bas-Armagnacs, but I know of no one who makes finer Bas Armagnac than Darroze. All his Armagnacs are unblended from single vineyards from a single vintage. He is considered the “Pope of Armagnacs”… You haven’t tasted real old style Armagnacs until you try one of these incredibly intense, fiery creations. The aromas are undeniably heady, but deliver powerful yet complex scents of vanillin, leather, sauteed almonds, and hickory. Extremely full bodied and intense, the remarkable amount of fruit these Armagnacs possess and the astonishing richness they have set them apart from just about any other brandy on the market

Hélène Darroze, Marc‘s sister, left the Southwest and has three Michelin stars and three restaurants: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught in London, Restaurant Hélène Darroze in Paris and Moscow.

To come back to Claude Darroze, at the peak, he had 2 Michelin stars. Finally, Claude‘s brother Alain Darroze was at some point the private chef of the French President.

Château de Chantegrive

Barry Bros and Rudd: Château de Chantegrive is one of the largest wine estates in the Graves appellation, in the commune of Podensac, with 97 hectares (240 acres) of vines.

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Pictures: Annette Schiller and Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

It is a member of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. The Chateau produces a red & rose wines from Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon,as well as white wines based on Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon from 10 hectares (25 acres) of 30+ years oldvines.

In 1966 Henri and Françoise Lévêque purchased some vineyards around the village of Podensac and gradually set about creating the Chantegrive estate. The baton has now been passed to the younger generation and the progress continues.

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Pictures: Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

The Cuvée Caroline is their white wine produced from 12 hectares of vines. The juice is fermented in barrel and is then aged in new Allier oak casks for 9 months, with regular stirring of the lees to enrich then wine. A recent clutch of awards bears testimony to the exciting quality of wine being made here and the recognition it is deservedly earning.

Wine-pairing Lunch

The Cuisine of Claude Darroze and the Wines Châteaux Chantegrive

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Prélude gourmand

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Queues de Langoustine à la Plancha, Petites Ravioles de Petits Pois, Emulsion de Sauce Newberg Infusée au Basilic
Château de Chantegrive Cuvée Caroline 2012

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St Pierre de Nos Côtes, Piperade de Piquillos & Oignons Doux, Huile de Chorizo
Château de Chantegrive Cuvée Henri Lévêque 2009

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Vacherin aux Fraises, Menthe & Poivre
La Grive Dorée by Chantegrive 2015

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Mignardises Maison
Darroze Armagnac

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Lovely Lunch

This was an outstanding lunch: delicious food, world-class wines and a lovely athmosphere in the garden of Restaurant Claude Darroze. Thank you!

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Pictures: Outstanding Lunch at Restaurant Claude Darroze

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dining and Wining on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris: La Rotonde, Le Dôme and La Coupole, France – Pre-Bordeaux Wine Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuis - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting were it all Started: At the "Garage" of Jean-Luc Thunevin, Owner and Winermaker of Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 2012 - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive

Tour of Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Grande Vigne (at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte)

Tour of the new Musee du Vin in Bordeaux City

Seafood lunch at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Michel Tesseron

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch were the Locals eat: At Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe in Saint Estephe

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux, Appellation Margaux, 1ière Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Picnic Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin

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Picture: Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright and Dry

There are approximately 47,000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany—with 22,500 hectares—accounts for about half of the total. From a global perspective, Riesling is a niche grape variety, accounting for less than 1% of world wine production. From a global perspective, it is the fruity-sweet style (with the fermentation stopped so that the wine remains sweet and the level of alcohol low) and the rare noble-sweet style (lusciously sweet wines due to noble rot or frost in the vineyard) that are receiving the attention of the connoisseurs of premium wines. Dry Riesling has played a minor role in the world of wine, but this is changing. The Rieslings from Alsace and Austria, both considerably smaller producers of Riesling than Germany (Alsace produces approximately 15% and Austria approximately 7% of what Germany produces), have always been in the dry category (although the Rieslings fromAlsace have showna trend toward an increasing level of remaining sweetness in the wine over the past decades), and, importantly, Germany, the dominating Riesling force in the world, has undergone a major transformation in the past 40 years: The fruity-sweet Rieslings have been crowded out from the wine lists in Germany, while the “dry wave”—“Trockenwelle”—has swept the country. When you go to a wine bar, wine store, or restaurant in say Frankfurt, Berlin, or Munich, it is very difficult to find a fruity-sweet Riesling. The wine lists are dominated by dry Riesling.

It is against this background that John Winthrop Haeger has written Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright and Dry. There is nothing in the book on what some of my wine friends in the United States consider the best Rieslings of the world: the low-alcohol Kabinett and Spätlese wines from such iconic winemakers as Egon Müller, JJ Prüm, or Forstmeister Zilliken from the Mosel. Rather, it is all about dry Riesling, and the only Mosel producer included in the description of the world’s top dry Riesling producers is Clemens Busch, who makes outstanding ultrapremium dry wines in Pünderich.

In 350 pages, Haeger provides a comprehensive account of what dry Riesling is all about. The style of the book shows that the author is a researcher and not a journalist (Haeger is a China scholar). The book is not an introduction for a newcomer, but a solid piece of research work for somebody who is familiar with the subject. The book combines academic rigor with a passion for dry Riesling. Unfortunately, the book covers only the Northern Hemisphere, omitting in particular such important producers of dry Riesling as Australia and New Zealand, but also countries like Chile, Argentina, and South Africa.

The book is divided into two parts. The first part is a wide-ranging discussion of dry Riesling. Haeger brings together a wealth of information on various aspects of dry Riesling, including the history, the styles, the clones, the culture, and the habitats. He addresses the issues of the definition of dry Riesling and the balance in dry Riesling in useful boxes. The section on the different Riesling clones is the most thorough and complete write-up on the issue that I am aware of.

Haeger provides a detailed review of the shift from dry to sweet Riesling (the Trockenwelle) that has happened in the past 40 years in Germany. He underpins his reasoning with fascinating details such as the change on the wine list of the trendy restaurant Ente in Wiesbaden that one could observe over time. Chef Klaus-Peter Wodartz of the Ente was one of the leaders in the Neue Deutsche Küche (New German Cooking) movement in the 1970s in Germany, which is credited with being a driving force in the Trockenwelle. Other factors are climate change, a spillover effect from Alsace, and the desire by the young winemaker generation, led by the late George Breuer of Weingut Georg Breuer in Rüdesheim, to produce premium dry Riesling that can compete with the best white wines in the world.

As we all know, wine is normally dry. Riesling is the only noble grape variety in which the wine can be dry, fruity-sweet, or noble-sweet. I would have loved to see a clear delineation of dry Riesling from the other categories, in particular from the fruity-sweet style. The German Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese wines are not sweet because Mother Nature was more generous with the grapes, but because of skillful intervention of the winemaker in the cellar. Without the winemaker interrupting the fermentation, all these wines would be dry. In this context, a discussion of the widespread view that generally dry Riesling is inferior to sweet Riesling would have been useful.

The second part is a detailed study of the best vineyards for dry Riesling in the (northern) world and an in-depth description of the key producers of dry Riesling in these vineyards and their wine-making approaches. Haeger identifies 89 superior sites and groups them under five headings: Rhine Basin (with Alsace and German Wine Regions), Danube Basin: Lower Austria, Adige Basin: Alto Adige, Eastern North America, and Western North America. Haeger provides most interesting descriptions of these top sites.

The reviews of the winemakers and their wine-making approaches are comprehensive with many interesting details. I found each one of them fascinating to read. However, I would have preferred a greater number of reviews, each with a shorter text. Quite a number of leading producers of dry Riesling, at least in Germany, are not mentioned in the book. The Franken area, an early producer of bone-dry Rieslings, is completely left out. Other obvious omissions include Dönnhoff, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Sybille Kuntz, Klaus Peter Keller, Franz Künstler, Karthäuserhof, and Immich-Batterieberg, to name a few. That Dr. Loosen is not mentioned is because the major dry Riesling initiative of this producer is too recent. Still, many of the big players in Germany are discussed.

The book is very different from many other wine books in that it does not take a fresh look at a subject that has been treated before by other authors. This is the first book about dry Riesling. It has a bit of the character of a doctoral dissertation in that it covers new ground—and it does so in a detailed and comprehensive manner. For somebody like me who grew up with dry German Riesling, it was a great pleasure to read, but really, anybody interested in the story of dry Riesling will enjoy reading this book.

Christian G.E. Schiller
International Monetary Fund (ret.) and
Emeritus Professor, University of Mainz, Germany
cschiller@schiller-wine.com

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Picture: John Haeger in Seattle. See: 5. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State: Overview

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Picture: Christian Schiller and John Haeger in Seattle. See: The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

List of Content and Full Text/ Abstract Links of New Issue of the Journal of Wine Economics (JWE) (Vol 11, No 2)

Introduction to the Issue (FULL TEXT PDF)Karl Storchmann

Regulation and Contract Choice in the Distribution of Wine (FULL TEXT PDF)Michelle Santiago & Michael Sykuta

Fine Wines and Stocks from the Perspective of UK Investors: Hedge or Safe Haven? (ABSTRACT)Elie I. Bouri & David Roubaud

Identifying the Effects of Objective and Subjective Quality on Wine Prices (ABSTRACT)Edward Oczkowski

The Value of Expert Opinion in the Pricing of Bordeaux Wine Futures (ABSTRACT)
Robert H. Ashton

How Much Government Assistance Do European Wine Producers Receive? (FULL TEXT PDF)
Kym Anderson & Hans G. Jensen

BOOK REVIEWS

ALICE FEIRING
For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World’s Most Ancient Wine CultureReviewed by Richard E. Quandt
Pages 306 – 308

WILLIAM BOSTWICK
The Brewer’s Tale: A History of the World According to BeerReviewed by Kenneth G. Elzinga
Pages 308 – 314

TOM ACITELLI
The Audacity of Hops: The History of America’s Craft Beer RevolutionReviewed by Jacob R. Straus
Pages 314 – 316

JOHN WINTHROP HAEGER
Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright and DryReviewed by Christian G.E. Schiller
Pages 316 – 319

MARK A. MATTHEWS
Terroir and Other Myths of WinegrowingReviewed by Victor Ginsburgh
Pages 319 – 323

J. STEPHEN CASSCLES
Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and CanadaReviewed by Lawrence R. Coia
Pages 323 – 325|

As usual, AAWE members will have full access to all JWE papers through our website. The JWE, published by Cambridge University Press, is also available in more than 3,000 libraries worldwide. In order to receive the Journal of Wine Economics (three hard copies per year - 4 issues from 2017 on - and full online access to all articles) join AAWE. AAWE is a non-profit organization (501c3) and has kept individual membership low for years ($59 online and hardcopy, $39 online only). You can sign up or renew your membership here. AAWE members also receive a substantial registration discount at our annual conferences.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Leading a Tasting at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

5. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State: Overview

The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

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Picture: Vineyard Tour with Martin Johann Schmitt, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder, Franken

The visit of Weingut Schmitt‘s Kinder in Randersacker comprised an extensive vineyard tour by car and a massive tasting at the winery. Martin Johann Schmitt was our host.

The Schmitt family can trace back its viticulture roots to the year 1712. The name Schmitt’s Kinder (children) came into being in 1910 when a group of heirs -after the early death of their parents- decided to operate the estate together instead of dividing it. Today the 9th , Karl Martin and Renate Schmitt and the 10th generation, Martin Johann Schmitt, of the founding family manages the estate which has 35 acres of vineyard of which 30% is planted with Silvaner, the Franken signature grape. The Schmitts produce top quality, dry wines and their 2012 Grand Cru Randersacker Sonnenstuhl Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) just won 2. place at a Feinschmecker (the best German wine and gourmet magazine) competition. At this winery the happy relationship between wine and art comes alive. The painter Andi Schmitt has his studio in the historic baroque estate in the town center and his and some artist friend’s works can be seen in the tasting room at the new winery.

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Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Schmitt's Kinder

Rudi Wiest: Weingut Schmitt‘s Kinder

Rudi Wiest is the US importer of Weingut Schmitt‘s Kinder. Weingut Schmitt‘s Kinder joined the Rudi Wiest portfolio only recently.

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Pictures: Martin Johann, Karl Martin and Renate Maria Schmitt, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder

Rudi Wiest: The Schmitt family has a tradition in viticulture dating back to 1712. The baroque estate manor built between 1710 and 1712 in the center of Randersacker spawned almost 10 generations of Schmitt’s that continued the tradition of producing wine from the steep vineyards along the Main river in Randersacker near Würzburg. Early last century the parents of the Schmitt clan died very young and left the surviving children as a community of heirs and instead of dividing the estate they decided to manage the estate together. Hence the name Schmitt’s Kinder.

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Pictures: Vineyard Tour with Martin Johann Schmitt

The great grandfather of the current generation liked the designation and passed it on to Martin’s grandfather, Adam John Schmitt and then to his parents Karl and Renate Schmitt and of course last to him. As of 2014, he is the new man in charge after his apprenticeships and his schooling in Geisenheim. He is a skilled winemaker for both superb whites and reds. His responsibility is to uphold the quality for one of the great estates in Franconia and thus far has done a superb job.

Old documents, labels, photographs, bottles and work implements were transferred from the old manor to the more recently built estate building at the foot of the Sonnenstuhl vineyard in 1984.

The estate is a member of TRIAS, (terroir, passion, pleasure), and the prestigious VDP growers association.

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Pictures: Tasting with Martin Johann Schmitt, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder

Tasting

2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Silvaner trocken Ortswein

Martin Schmitt: Temperaturwise, I like to ferment all my wines a bit higher than others. As a result, my wines tend to be closed a bit more in the beginning and need some time to open up.

2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Silvaner trocken Erste Lage

Sonnenstuhl (VDP. Grosse Lage (the “filet” portion of the vineyard), the remainder VDP, Erste Lage): The Sonnenstuhl is also comprised of the following vineyards; (pre 1971 wine Law) Hohes Roth, Rückersell and Paradis. These vineyards are mentioned in documents dating back to 1240 as “monte Rode aput Raudersacher”. From the Sonnenstuhl tower overlooking the main valley, one has a view over the slope with South-Southwest exposure. The vineyard is traversed with large retaining walls hence the name “chair of the sun”!

In the steepest part or the upper portions of the vineyard it is comprised of clay and loam whereas in the lower portion is made up of loan and intermixed humus and sand. These are easily warmed soils where Silvaner and Pinot Noir feel quite comfortable.

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2015 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Silvaner trocken Erste Lage

2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Marsberg Silvaner trocken Alte Reben Erste Lage

Marsberg (VDP, Erste Lage): The Marsberg is composed of the following “former” sites: Spielberg, Marsberg, Hammelsmaier, Ewig Leben and Westroden. The original Marsberg is a slipface in a side valley with up to 251m elevation, (the river bottom is at 176m). Exposure is to the South with very deep loam and clay laced in limestone soil.

In the front portion, a Southwest facing underant slope which points directly towards the Main River, is the location of the Spielberg vineyard. The soil is more shallow and nutrient rich with very high limestone content and 70% steep. An ideal site for top Rieslings!

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2015 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Riesling trocken Ortswein

Thomas Schmitt: Overall, Riesling accounts for 3% in Franken. With a share of 15%, Weingut Schmitt's Kinder is well above the average.

2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Riesling trocken Erste Lage

2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Marsberg Riesling trocken "Spielberg" Erste Lage

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2015 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Marsberg Riesling trocken Erste Lage

Brian Thomas: Sometimes the Franken Rieslings resemble more the Wachau Rieslings than the Rheingau Rieslings.

2015 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Pfülben Silvaner GG Grosse Lage

2015 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Pfülben Riesling GG Grosse Lage

Pfülben (VDP, Grosse Lage): Bounded on both sides by a steep tributary valley, the Pfülben pushes above the town of Randersacker into the Main Valley. With its rounded edges it reminds of a fully stuffed pillow. In German it is denoted as “Flülwen” thus the name of the vineyard. At the steepest points these 70% steep Slopes with skeleton rich limestone marl at an elevation of 200m grow topflight Rieslings and Silvaners. With its proximity to the riverbanks, the vines profit from the light and thermal reflections of the Main River.

This middle to very deep humus rich and easily warmed limestone marl soils are generators for quick warming as well as providing excellent thermal storage capacity. The limited rainfall in the Main Valley provide for a near perfect and stable climate. A near ideal vineyard for the production of top dry wines, the GG’s or Grand Cru’s of Germany.

2013 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Spätburgunder Tradition Erste Lage

2013 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Spätburgunder GG Grosse Lage

Thomas Schmitt: Spätburgunder is a new development in our estate.

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2014 Weingut Schmitt's Kinder Randersackerer Marsberg Riesling Auslese Erste Lage

Bye-bye

Many thanks Martin Johann for the great vineyard tour and tasting.

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Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Visit and Wine Tasting Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region: Wine Tasting with Marcus Pawis – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine Lunch at the Historic Vincenz Richter Restaurant, Weingut Vincenz Richter in Meissen with Senior Boss Gottfried Herrlich – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Tim Strasser/ Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen, with Tim Strasser - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch with Wine Pairing at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen, with Restaurant Manager/ Sommelier Dirk Brauer - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Weingut Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken, with General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch - Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer– Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller in Würzburg, Franken, with General Manager Marcel von den Benken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Visit of Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg, with Kyle Frank from the Finger Lakes

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder

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Picture: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

Following lunch at La Cabotte, the best restaurant in Nuits-Saint-George and one of the best restaurants in the Bourgogne region, we walked over to Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair for a tasting with Thibault Liger-Belair in the cellar of the domaine. We tasted from barrel and from bottle.

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Pictures: Walking over to Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George

The domaine has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. The somewhat complicated history came to a happy end when Thibault LigerBelair took charge of the vines as winemaker and created Domaine Thibault LigerBelair in 2001. In 2003 he added parcels of Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, and in VosneRomanée to his vineyard portfolio. He also bought vineyards in the Beaujolais region, in MoulinàVent. He wants to farm biodynamically but it takes some transition time to convert the vineyards. Thibault is emerging as one of the few truly great winemakers in Nuits-Saint-George.

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Pictures: Welcome

Vineyard Brands: Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George

This domaine, located in Nuits-St.-Georges, has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. In 2001, Vincent’s son, Thibault Liger-Belair, took over the vines as the winemaker and created Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault says “the whole of the crus composing the domaine and the tradition inherited of a long, family experience requires us today to work the vines with the utmost respect of the terroirs. The quality is primarily decided in the vineyard by attentive cultivation and that one must remain humble in front of the magic of our terroirs. For this reason, the whole of the domaine is cultivated in biological agriculture, both the treatment of the vines and the soil maintenance. I do not practice biological culture as a sacrifice to fashion but by vocation, since I feel that if we want to produce great wines, it is imperative to question each step of the process.”

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Pictures: Thibault Liger-Belair Introducing us to the Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

The domaine, located in Nuits-St.-Georges, has almost 18 acres distributed among the following appellations:

Richebourg: 1.36 acres – planted in 1936
Clos Vougeot: 1.85 acres – planted in 1948
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Saint Georges: 5.19 acres – planted in 1944
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Petits-Monts: .247 acres – planted in 1954
Vosne Romanee aux Reas: 1.36 acres – planted in 1956
Nuits Saint Georges la Charmotte: .98 acre – planted in 1962
Gevrey-Chambertin les Croix des Champs: .49 acre – planted in 1964
Bourgogne les Grand Chaillots: 1.97 acres – planted in 1986
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits le Clos du Prieuré: 2.72 acres – planted in 1986
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits la Corvée de Villy: 1.73 acres – planted in 1988

and under T. Liger-Belair Successeur:
Corton Renardes Grand Cru: .914 acre – planted in 1965
Corton les Rognets Grand Cru: .44 acre – planted in 1960

The domaine has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. In 1720, Claude Marey, the king’s secretary and mayor of Nuits, and a vineyard proprietor, founded the C. Marey house to sell his fine wines. His son, Claude Philibert Marey, also mayor of Nuits, died in 1804 and his youngest son, Guillaume Felix Marey, took over the business. In 1852 his nephew, Comte Liger-Belair, proprietor of Grands Crus in Vosne-Romanée, became his business partner under the name C. Marey et Comte Liger-Belair.

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Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

The domaine passed down through the family for the next 5 generations. In 1982 Xavier Liger-Belair died and the business was sold. That same year Xavier’s son, Vincent Liger-Belair, took over the buildings and restructured the domaine by having three sharecropper winemakers handle the work. Then in 2001, Vincent’s son, Thibault Liger-Belair, took over the vines as the winemaker and created Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair.

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Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

He simultaneously started T. Liger-Belair Successeur company. Having studied viticulture and oenology for six years, Thibault then worked for a communications firm in Paris where he was able to present and taste wines internationally. Two years later, he started an internet company with the idea of discovering and selling high quality wines. But the calling of the vines was still strong, so in 2001, at the age of 26, Thibault decided to jump to the other side of the fence, this time to make wine, his true calling and passion. The year 2002 was the first harvest of the Saint Georges appellation, Charmottes de Nuits as well as Vosne Romanee Aux Reas. In 2003, the domaine enriched and completed its range with Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Petits Monts and Bourgogne Rouge.

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Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

Three coopers are used at the domaine: Tonnelerie François Frères, Tonnellerie Mercurey and Tonnellerie Dominique Laurent. Thibault Liger-Belair closely follows the wood selection according to the texture and origin and imposes a three-year drying period before barrels are made. This allows the use of perfectly dry wood which obtains superior tannin quality, making them much silkier and delicate. Rarely is more than 50% new wood used at Domaine Liger-Belair. The wines are aged according to their appellations, between 14 and 18 months, without racking or any other aeration. They are neither fined nor filtered.

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Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

Philosophy - The Vines: Thibault says “the whole of the crus composing the domaine and the tradition inherited of a long, family experience requires us today to work the vines with the utmost respect of the terroirs. The quality is primarily decided in the vineyard by attentive cultivation and that one must remain humble in front of the magic of our terroirs. For this reason, the whole of the domaine is cultivated in biological agriculture, both the treatment of the vines and the soil maintenance. I do not practice biological culture as a sacrifice to fashion but by vocation, since I feel that if we want to produce great wines, it is imperative to question each step of the process. The six appellations that I cultivate are worked in different ways as to their soil and climate. The richness of our terroirs demands that we reflect on each individual parcel to be worked, rather than doing systematic work as if often done. The role I impose on myself consists in “listening” to the vine and observing it closely. My responsibility is to better answer its needs and thus to help it realize all its natural potential – not to require that it produce large quantities of grapes but to produce a limited quantity of exceptional quality.

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Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair

Philosophy - The cellar: As I practice this philosophy in the production of grapes, I apply it to the vinification and raising of the wines, trying to produce crus of great purity, without artifice or abusive extraction. I am not trying to sign my wines but rather work in such a way that one may recognize the terroirs whence they are issued. I would find it difficult to explain to you my vinification method, as it differs every year. The only common point remains in bringing in the grapes in an irreproachable sanitary state and in handling each operation delicately. I am trying to infuse instead of extract. The less one mistreats the grape, the better the wine shall be.”

Thibault Liger-Belair bought a piece of property in the Beaujolais region, in the appellation Moulin-à-Vent, what many consider the top appellation in the region, and capable of living the longest of all the Beaujolais wines. 2009 was his first vintage there. Thibault will farm biodynamically, but it will take some years to transition the vineyards. He owns 8 acres and the average vine age is 60 years.

Bye-bye

Many thanks Thibault for an exceptional tasting.

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Pictures: Thibault Liger-Belair with Annette and Christian Schiller

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours:From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George with Thibault Liger-Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Peter Jakob Kühn in Kiedrich, Rheingau, see: Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

The Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide is arguably the leading German wine guide. The Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2017 was released a few weeks ago.

This posting is a complete listing of the wine producers that were promoted in the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2017.

Promotion to 5/5 Grapes

Dönnhoff Hermann, Oberhausen (Nahe), S.491
Kühn Peter Jakob, Oestrich (Rheingau), S.693
Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau (Nahe), S.517
Zilliken, Saarburg (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.478

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Pictures: Dönnhoff Hermann, Oberhausen (Nahe) - An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

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Pictures: Kühn Peter Jakob, Oestrich (Rheingau) - One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

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Pictures: Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenau (Nahe) - At Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

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Pictures: Zilliken, Saarburg (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) - At Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Promotion to 4/5 Grapes

Koch Bernhard, Hainfeld (Pfalz), S.586
Müller-Catoir, Neustadt-Haardt (Pfalz), S.605
Schneider Jakob, Niederhausen (Nahe), S.522
Wegeler, Gutshaus Oestrich (Rheingau), S.726
Weiser-Künstler, Traben-Trarbach (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.474
Ziereisen, Efringen-Kirchen (Baden), S.215

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Pictures: Müller-Catoir, Neustadt-Haardt (Pfalz) - Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Picture: Wegeler, Gutshaus Oestrich (Rheingau) - Christian Schiller and Tom Drieseberg, General Manager and Owner, Weingut Wegeler

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Picture: Weiser-Künstler, Traben-Trarbach (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) - Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler of Weingut Weiser-Künstler at the Rieslingfeier2016 in New York. See: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Promotion to 3/5 Grapes

Altenkirch Friedrich, Lorch (Rheingau), S.657
Clauss, Nack (Baden), S.130
Fricke Eva, Eltville (Rheingau), S.679
Haart Julian, Piesport (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.368
Josten & Klein, Remagen (Ahr), S.99
Jülg, Schweigen (Pfalz), S.579
Kauer Dr. Randolf, Bacharach (Mittelrhein), S.313
Kleinmann Ökonomierat, Birkweiler (Pfalz), S.583
Köwerich Nick, Leiwen (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.396
Kriechel Peter, Neuenahr-Ahrweiler (Ahr), S.101
Landgraf, Saulheim (Rheinhessen), S.796
Von der Mark, Bad Bellingen (Baden), S.175
Oetinger, Erbach (Rheingau), S.705
Sander, Mettenheim (Rheinhessen), S.815
Schneider Karlheinz, Bad Sobernheim (Nahe), S.523
Solter Sekthaus, Rüdesheim (Rheingau), S.719
Später-Veit, Piesport (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.455
Teschke Michael, Gau-Algesheim (Rheinhessen), S.835
Wachtstetter, Pfaffenhofen (Württemberg), S.925
Zimmerle, Korb (Württemberg), S.928

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Picture: Fricke Eva, Eltville (Rheingau) - Christian Schiller and Eva Fricke in New York

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Pictures: Jülg, Schweigen (Pfalz) - Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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Pictures: Oetinger, Erbach (Rheingau) - Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Wachtstetter, Pfaffenhofen (Württemberg) - Weingut Wachtstetter in Wuerttemberg– A Profile, Germany

Promotion to 2/5 Grapes

Arnold, Wilhelm,Randersacker (Franken), S.224
Bibo &Runge, Hallgarten, Rheingau (Rheingau), S.662
Dautermann, Ingelheim (Rheinhessen), S.756
Ehrhard Carl (Rheingau), S.673
Eser August, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau), S.675
Giegerich, Großwallstadt (Franken), S.242
Höfflin, Bötzingen (Baden), S.151
John Hirschhorner Weinkontor, Neustadt (Pfalz), S.578
Klein Christian, Kröv (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.393
Krämer, Auernhofen (Franken), S.254
Lotz, Klaus, Erden (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.408
Meierer, Kesten (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.412
Ortenberg, Schloss (Baden), S.183
Pfirmann, Landau (Pfalz), S.615
Pröstler, Retzbach (Franken), S.267
Raddeck, Nierstein (Rheinhessen), S.808
Salm, Prinz, Wallhausen (Nahe), S.516
Sauer Heiner, Böchingen (Pfalz), S.621
Schaefer Karl, Bad Dürkheim (Pfalz), S.622
Schneider, Ellerstadt (Pfalz), S.626
Schweinhardt, Langenlonsheim (Nahe), S.525
Strauch, Sektmanufaktur, Osthofen (Rheinhessen), S.832
Thanisch, Lieser (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.461
Vaux, Eltville (Rheingau), S.724
Werther Windisch, Mommenheim (Rheinhessen), S.847
Westerhaus, Schloss Ingelheim (Rheinhessen), S.848
Wolf, Birkweiler (Pfalz), S.644

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Picture: Eser August, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau) - Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

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Pictures: Schneider, Ellerstadt (Pfalz) - Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Promotion to 1/5 Grapes

Adams, Ingelheim (Rheinhessen), S.740
Alte Schmiede, Siefersheim (Rheinhessen), S.741
Auggen, Winzerkeller (Baden), S.121
Breit Manfred, Piesport (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.339
Ellermann-Spiegel, Kleinfischlingen (Pfalz), S.562
Emmerich-Koebernik, Waldböckelheim (Nahe), S.493
Engel, Flörsheim (Rheinhessen), S.760
Escher, Schwaikheim (Württemberg), S.900
Graf, Weyher (Pfalz), S.570
Hirschmann, Oestrich-Winkel (Rheingau), S.683
Hiss, Eichstetten (Baden), S.150
Hörner, Hainbachhof, Hochstadt (Pfalz), S.575
Hunn, Gottenheim (Baden), S.155
Kastler & Friedland, Radebeul (Sachsen), S.875
Keller Lorenz, Erzingen (Baden), S.160
Klieber, Hangen-Weisheim (Rheinhessen), S.790
Lüttmer, Berlin (Saale-Unstrut), S.865
Lützkendorf, Bad Kösen (Saale-Unstrut), S.865
Montana Weinmanufaktur, Auerbach (Hessische Bergstraße), S.301
Müller-Ruprecht, Kallstadt (Pfalz), S.607
Sankt Anna Schwaab, Erden (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.445
Schlumberger Rainer, Sulzburg (Baden), S.192
Schuh Sörnewitz (Sachsen), S.879
Schwedhelm, Zell (Pfalz), S.628
Vereinigte Hospitien, Trier (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), S.465
Vogel, Vogtsburg-Oberbergen (Baden), S.206
Vollmer Hubert, Durbach (Baden), S.207
Walldorf-Pfaffenhof, Saulheim (Rheinhessen), S.840
Weinegg, Hochheim (Rheingau), S.729
Zwölberich, Langenlonsheim (Nahe), S.532

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Picture: Adams, Ingelheim (Rheinhessen) - Frankfurt/Wein Celebrated with the German Wine Queen Nadine Poss and 5 Winemakers: Simone Adams, Weingut Simone Adams, Markus Berres, Weingut C.H. Berres, Stefan Braunewell, Weingut Braunewell, Carmen von Nell-Breuning, Dominikaner Weingut, and Stephan Attmann, Weingut von Winning

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Pictures: Lützkendorf, Bad Kösen (Saale-Unstrut) - Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Extraordinary Views of the Rheingau Vineyards - A Spectecular Helicopter Flight over the Rheingau with Rheingau Winemakers, Germany

One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Wachtstetter in Wuerttemberg– A Profile, Germany

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, on the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Frankfurt/Wein Celebrated with the German Wine Queen Nadine Poss and 5 Winemakers: Simone Adams, Weingut Simone Adams, Markus Berres, Weingut C.H. Berres, Stefan Braunewell, Weingut Braunewell, Carmen von Nell-Breuning, Dominikaner Weingut, and Stephan Attmann, Weingut von Winning

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Annette Schiller and the Owner of the Château de Chantegrive, Marie-Hélène Lévêque

Following an outstanding Lucheon at the 1 Star Michelin Restaurant Charles Darroze with the Owner of the Château de Chantegrive, Marie-Hélène Lévêque, and her excellent wines, Marie-Hélène Lévêque showed us her winery. We also met Arnaud Dubois, the Technical Director of Château de Chantegrive.

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Pictures: Wine-pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Château de Chantegrive is a large estate with 96 hectares under vine on an exceptional terroir of gravel terraces. It produce both red and white Grave wines which are highly regarded by wine critics world-wide. Château de Chantegrive is member of the ‘Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux’, the Association of Premium Châteaux of about 140 members.

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Pictures: Arriving at Château de Chantegrive

Château de Chantegrive

Marie-Hélène Lévêque: If you like fairytales, here is ours! Our story begins in 1966 when Henri & Françoise Lévêque decided to create what became later the Chateau de Chantegrive ! They were strong believers of the potential of the Graves "terroir", which convince them to sell their superb stamp collection to acquire their first two hectares. What happened next is a success story, the result of a relentless work always oriented toward the future and the new technologies. “It was a childhood dream, we made it come true” Françoise & Henri together formed a very dynamic duo, a solid visionary team, and above all: a couple of passionate wine lovers.

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Pictures: Winery Tour at Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque

In 2006, the Lévêque family called upon the services of Hubert de Bouard, owner of the world-famous Chateau Angelus, to act as consultant oenologist entrusted with the mission of taking the quality of Chantegrive wines even further. His understanding, his adaptability, and his expert advice have given a tremendous boost to the property in terms of quality.

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Pictures: Marie-Hélène Lévêque and Arnaud Dubois, the Technical Director of Château de Chantegrive.

50 years later and 96 hectares futher, the new generation of children has taken over the Chateau de Chantegrive. Marie Hélène Lévêque carries on the work of her parents with a dynamic passion alongside her mother, brothers and sisters.

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Pictures: Winery Tour at Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque

The Terroir

The Graves appellation is the only one in France which bears the name of the soil that produces the wines. Located on the left bank of the Garonne river and bordered to the south west by forests, this geographical situation provides protection from extreme weather systems coming from the Atlantic ocean as well as protection against the risk of drought due to the proximity of the Garonne.

Ever since the Quaternary period the terroir has slept on thick gravelly depo- sits brought down from the Pyrenees by the Garonne over thousands of years. Today these outcrops are made up largely of gravel, shingle, and coarse sand, all mixed with silt and resting on a layer of clay and limestone subsoil. The gentle slopes of the outcrops provide good natural drainage towards the Garonne.

At night the gravelly soil gradually releases the heat stored up during the day, thus contributing to the ripening process of the grapes. The vineyards of Chantegrive are south or south-east facing, which is perfect.

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Pictures: Winery Tour at Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque

Bye-bye

Many, many thanks Marie-Hélène Lévêque!!!

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Picture: Annette Schiller and the Owner of the Château de Chantegrive, Marie-Hélène Lévêque

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dining and Wining on Boulevard Montparnasse in Paris: La Rotonde, Le Dôme and La Coupole, France – Pre-Bordeaux Wine Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Tour and Tasting from Barrel at Domaine de Chevalier, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Adrien Bernard - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Tasting at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Château Beauséjour, Appellation Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, with Owner/ Winemaker Gérard Dupuis - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Beauregard, Appellation Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour with Dany Rolland: Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting were it all Started: At the "Garage" of Jean-Luc Thunevin, Owner and Winermaker of Château Valandraud, Premier Grand Cru Classé since 2012 - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Wine-pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tour of Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave

Tour and Tasting at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé.

Wine Pairing Lunch at the 2-star Michelin Restaurant La Grande Vigne (at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte)

Tour of the new Musee du Vin in Bordeaux City

Seafood lunch at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret

Tour of the Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm and Oyster Tasting in Grand-Piquey, with Oyster Farmer Ralph Doerfler

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Tourt and tasting at Château Palmer, Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Michel Tesseron

At the Invitation of Owner Michel Tesseron: Private Dinner at Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil

Lunch were the Locals eat: At Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe in Saint Estephe

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Anne Cuvelier

Tour and Tasting at Château Margaux, Appellation Margaux, 1ière Grand Cru Classé

Tour and Tasting at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Picnic Lunch at Château Kirwan, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Nathalie Schyler

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé, with Daina Paulin

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Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller at L' Embarcadere with a Plateau des Fruits de Mer (for 2)

Bordeaux City

The city of Bordeaux is a jewel, with vestiges from the Roman era and medieval town gates. However, the 18th century was its golden age. Victor Hugo once said: “Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux.”

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Pictures: Visiting Bordeaux City

Bordeaux is often referred to as "Little Paris". Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux’s 18th century, big-scale rebuilding as a model when he was asked by Emperor Napoleon III to transform a then still quasimedieval Paris into a “modern” capital that would make France proud.

The city was ruled by the English for a long time, which is why Bordeaux seems to have an "English flair". After the marriage of Henry II to Eleanor of Aquitaine, Bordeaux came under English rule between 1152 and 1453. It was then that the British first developed their taste for Claret, as the red Bordeaux wine is called in the UK.

The city has recently been classified by UNESCO as an “outstanding urban and architectural ensemble”.Bordeaux has a million inhabitants, including a lively university community of over 60,000.

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Pictures: Visiting Bordeaux City

Bordeaux is a flat city, built on the left banks of the Garonne. The Garonne merges a dozen kilometers below the city with the Dordogne to form the Gironde, which is biggest estuary in France. The two main entertainment spots are: (1) Formerly inhabited by wine merchant warehouses, the docks (les quais) are now home to gardens, bike and skate paths, boutiques, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. (2) La Victoire is the other area for entertainment: Historical monuments meet student life and bars. Most of the pubs and bars of the town are here. Virtually, all the shops in the surroundings of this area are bars.

See:
In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City

L' Embarcadere

3 Rue de Pas Saint Georges

The decor is reminiscent of a pub or brasserie, with wood paneling and rich velvet seating, but the cuisine is seafood all the way. The menu is vast and can suit any seafood tastes and budgets. Known in town as a restaurant serving high-quality dishes at reasonable prices.

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Picture: L' Embarcadere

Le Petit Commerce

Restaurant et Pecherie

18, 19- 22 Rue Parlement Saint-Pierre

Jim Drohman: The Petit Commerce, a bistro specializing in seafood, reminds me of two points regarding the city of Bordeaux that are not necessarily the first that come to mind when I think of this capital of wine.

First, Bordeaux is a port city and as such, has a rich culinary tradition surrounding fish and shellfish. Although officially located on the river Garonne, it is very near the river’s mouth and therefore close the rich fishing of the bay of Biscay. Bordeaux is also in the center of one of the most renowned oyster producing regions in France, very close to the famous oyster beds at Arcachon and around Oleron.

Second, Bordeaux is close enough to both Spain and the Basque countries that its cooking reflects some of these regions culinary traditions. In this case, I am thinking of cooking on a “plancha” or flat topped grill. Its a very simple, rustic way of cooking that adds a rich, caramelized, note to any ingredient. And one finds it often in Bordeaux.

The daily choices, which usually number 15-20 fish and an equal number of crustaceans, are listed on a chalk board.

The same owner has recently opened a shellfish bar directly across the street and diners at either restaurant can request dishes from the other…so you can start your meal with local oysters on the half shell or a plateau de fruites de mer that might include raw oysters, clams, mussels, crab, shrimp and sea snails.

Service can be brusk but I don’t take it personally…Le Petit Commerce seems always full and perpetually understaffed, although the staff that is there is working at full speed.

Recommended by Ray and Gisela Leon.

Chez Jean-Mi - Bistro à Huitres

Halle des Capucins

Go to the morning market at les Capucins around 11 am and stay for a little snack and glass of chilled white Bordeaux wine. There are just a few specialties, but all outstanding: the freshest of oysters, good bread, wine, and soupe des poissons with the traditional rouille and grated cheese.

From 7:00 am to 1:30 pm.

Le Cabanon Marin

24 Quai Richelieu

www.petitfute.com: Une vraie cabane de pêcheur sur les quais de Bordeaux ! Ce restaurant de spécialités de poisson fait face à la Garonne, ce qui lui permet d'offrir une terrasse agréable les jours de beau temps. A l'intérieur, une décoration typique bord de mer : lambris en bois, éléments rappelant la grande bleue... Le service est impeccable et très sympathique. La carte propose différentes assiettes de fruits de mer, des huîtres, comme l'Abordage, par exemple, un joyeux mélange d'huîtres, de moules, de coques, d'amandes, de bulots, de crevettes et de langoustines et la spécialité de la maison, la bouillabaisse, servie à partir de 2 personnes. Les assiettes de la mer peuvent être complétées au gré de vos envies par d'autres crustacés ou par des pommes de terre sarladaises. Le menu présente un bon rapport qualité-prix avec au choix du foie gras mi-cuit et son chutney au potiron maison, un bouquet de crevettes ou une soupe de poisson maison pour les entrées, pour continuer un filet de canette rôtie, sauce au poivre ou pavé de saumon cuit à l'étouffé ou un bar rôti au four (300-350g). Les desserts proposés sont variés et de qualité. Le Cabanon marin est un restaurant sans prétention mais où les amateurs de poissons et fruits de mer se régaleront.

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Pictures: Le Cabanon Marin

Chez Boulan Bordeaux

10 Rue Sicard (Chartron District)

Bénédicte Baggio-Catalan: Natives of the region know oyster producer Boulan for his unique oysters from Le Cap-Ferret, and now he has his own restaurant in Chartrons, a neighborhood in Bordeaux. There, chef Pierre Rousseau cooks a marine-inspired, fresh, innovative cuisine. I’m still dreaming about his raw sea bass with yuzu, ginger, cilantro and almonds, paired with mushrooms confit in sake and a runny egg yolk. It’s rare to get such good seafood in a city setting.

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Pictures: Chez Boulan Bordeaux

La Boite a Huitres

38 Cours du Chapeau-Rouge

Lonely Planet: The Oyster Box is the best place in Bordeaux to munch on fresh Arcachon oysters. Traditionally they're served with sausage but you can have them in a number of different forms, including with that other southwest delicacy, foie gras. They'll also pack them up so you can take them away for a riverfront picnic.

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Pictures: La Boite a Huitres

Cap Ferret

The places that follow are not in Bordeaux City, but in Cap Ferret, about 45 miles from Bordeaux City.

Pinasse Café

2 bis ave Océan Cap Ferret,33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret

Bottin Gourmand: Authentique et chaleureux, le Pinasse Café jouit d'une situation privilégiée. Les pieds dans l'eau du bassin d’Arcachon, vous pouvez déguster des moules aux aiguilles de pin, une blanquette de seiche, ou encore d'incroyables homards rôtis sauce sauternes, le tout préparé par le chef Emmanuel Goncalves. Généreux plateaux de fruits de mer. Vue imprenable sur la dune du Pilat. C'est assez magique.

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Pictures: Pinasse Café

The 2015 and 2016 Bordeaux Tours by ombiasy stopped there for lunch on a Sunday. Great, food and relaxed ambiance, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. I like the Plateau des Fruits de Mer.

See:
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Restaurant Chez Hortense

Avenue du Sémaphore, 33970 Lège-Cap-Ferret

lefooding.com: A façade with green stripes, a big terrace under the awning and grapevines on the pergola, with a view of the Arcachon Bassin and in the distance, the Pyla dune…. If the dishes that have given this classic Cap Ferret establishment its reputation were a little disappointing the day we went (overcooked mussels and greasy fries), the fish was in excellent shape. Presented whole (wild turbot and bass for two to four people, €37 a head), they return to your table cooked to perfection, just like the grilled portions for solitary diners (salmon, red mullet, tuna and wild meagre…). Preceded, as an appetizer, by whelks, shrimp with a spicy sauce, tuna tartare or langoustines with mayonnaise, and followed by a puits d’amour with strawberries and whipped cream, extolled by a gesticulating Bernadette, Hortense’s granddaughter. The wine selection is respectable, with lots of Bordeaux wines, without feeling chauvinistic (Pessac-Léognan blanc Château Brown for €45, Chablis from Aegerter for €36); wines by the glass €4-8. À la carte €46-66. Reservations necessary.

www.petitfute.com: Une visite gustative Chez Hortense s'impose lors de votre séjour, tellement la cuisine est sincère de fraîcheur et de générosité dans ce coin de paradis. En effet ce cadre bucolique, au charme fou, tout près de l'eau, est l'endroit idéal pour se restaurer ou pour boire un verre, face à la Dune du Pyla. La jolie terrasse couverte et chauffée vous permet de profiter au maximum de l'environnement exceptionnel. Les assiettes sont savoureuses, la cuisson des poissons frais de la pêche du jour est toujours parfaite, le service très aimable et l'accueil irréprochable. Ce n'est pas un hasard si l'endroit est prisé depuis de nombreuses années par les people en vacances ! Dans cette maison de pêcheur authentique et pittoresque à l'ambiance très conviviale, vous vous ferez plaisir, c'est certain. Il faut absolument découvrir la recette spéciale des moules qui a fait la renommée de l'établissement, relevées à point, à base de pain de mie et du petit secret de famille, mais surtout très copieuse. Chez Hortense, une institution du Cap Ferret ! Réservation fortement conseillée.

La Cabane d'Hortense - Les Youkas -

Rue des Tamaris, 33970 Lège-Cap-Ferret

La Cabane d'Hortense, dégustation d'huîtres du Bassin d'Arcachon et du banc d'Arguin, terrasse les pieds dans l'eau au Cap-Ferret face à la dune du Pilat.

lefooding.com: Pour ses 77 ans, Chez Hortense, la baraque à moules-frites la plus people du Cap-Ferret, s’est offert une cabane à huîtres face à la conche du Mimbeau. Le standing (grande terrasse parasolée avec ponton et vue sur la dune du Pyla, bel intérieur en bois blond, vraie cheminée, déco brocantée…) est heureusement préservé, comme le suivi qualité assuré non-stop aux heures d’ouverture : huîtres familiales du banc d’Arguin – petites laiteuses (9 € les six), bonnes grosses quatre-saisons (21 € la douzaine) ; crevettes roses ou dodus bulots mayo (8 €) de la poissonnerie Lucine ; super pâté au foie et à la gorge de porc (6 €) ou terrine au porc noir de Bigorre de la ferme Vignécoise à Saint-Lary (7 €). Et pour arroser tout ça, deux options : graves blanc Château Graville-Lacoste (20 € la bouteille) ou bordeaux rosé Château de Chelivette (3,50 € le verre).

Chez Boulan

2 rue des Palmiers, 33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret

Lafourchette.com: Ambiance cabane de pêcheur. Terrasse à l'abri des regards avec vue sur la dune. Une atmosphère idyllique pour déguster des fruits de mer fraîchement ramassés et des poissons fraîchement pêchés. Chez Boulan c'est une ambiance bistrot simple et décontracté ou on mange bien et où on oublie vite que le temps passe. Une adresse pour pratiquer le Carpe Diem en toute tranquillité !

Hôtel de la Plage (Chez Magne)

Village de L'Herbe, 33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret

Belongs to the Nicolas Lascombe group.

Lefooding.com: Tenu pendant cinquante ans par deux cousines un peu acariâtres, l’Hôtel de la Plage (Chez Magne) fait partie du folklore du cap Ferret. Nicolas Lascombe, qui gère désormais cet ancien repaire de forestiers (1860), l’a laissé dans son jus avec confort sommaire et douches collectives. Ça fait partie du charme, comme la terrasse face au Bassin, absolument divine. Chambres à 75 € : pas cher !

gillespudlowski.com: Un mythe, comme aux îles. Dans un village d’ostréiculteurs et de pêcheurs qui évoque Saintes ou Saint-Barth: c’est l’hôtel de la Plage à l’Herbe. Cette adresse fameuse du Ferret, reprise avec entrain par une série d’investisseurs amis du Cap et de la maison, dont Nicolas Lascombes du Bouchon Bordelais, ne fait plus hôtel. Mais, elle accueille, chaque jour sauf le lundi, pour des dînettes relaxes dans une ambiance d’auberge de toujours. Marion Natalis anime désormais le lieu avec le sourire.

Le Bouchon du Ferret

2, rue des Palmiers, 33950 Lège-Cap-Ferret

Belongs to the Nicolas Lascombe group.

gillespudlowski.com: C’est l’événement du Cap Ferret, créé par un trio de talent: Damien Boulan, ostréiculteur et mareyreur de la poissonnerie éponyme et qui ouvre son cabanon à la dégustation d’huîtres en face, Nicolas Lascombes, qui fait florès avec sa Brasserie Bordelaise à Bordeaux, enfin Marion Natalis dont on reparlera très vite et qui vient de reprendre le mythique hôtel de la Plage à l’Herbe. Leur grand bouchon/brasserie relax et savoureux, plein de gaîté, fait merveille à deux pas du phare, face au Bassin et au cœur du quartier des pêcheurs.

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Schiller’s Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, Washington State, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA (2013)
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA (2013)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

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Picture: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017). In addition, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken was promoted from 4/5 to 5/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017 and is now one of 13 wine producers in Germany with 5 grapes in the Gault Millau. See: Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017)

We visited Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken during the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours and enjoyed a memorable tasting with Hanno Zilliken, which was preceeded by a tour of the impressive cellar of Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

Hanno Zilliken is a living legend in the Saar. Taking over the estate with the baroque, botrytis-inflected 1976 vintage, the wines of Zilliken have epitomized the lightness and elegance of Saar Riesling for well over 30 years. There are many who feel the 2005 vintage marked Hanno’s crowning achievement; this is a legendary collection. Yet, the best of Zilliken may still be to come; Hanno’s daughter, Dorothee, has been working with her father since 2007 and is in a great position to continue the estate.

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Picture: Arriving at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Joel B. Payne: An impressive cellar with nearly 100 percent humidity, perfectly maintained wooden barrels, in which the most brilliant of all Saar wines are made. Hanno Zilliken, assisted by his daughter Dorothee, produces sleek, radiantly clear Rieslings from the wines in the liter bottle to his noble sweet gems. His wines are truly timeless, far from any fashion!

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area.

Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

The Zilliken family traces its winegrowing tradition back to 1742. Royal Prussian Forest Superintendent Ferdinand Geltz (1985 –1925) however laid the groundwork for what would become one of the grandest family-owned estates in the Mosel appellation. He was also co-founder of the Association of Elite Wine Estates (VDP). Today Hanno Zilliken and daughter Dorothee, both gifted winemakers run the estate with Hanno’s wife Ruth overseeing sales. The 27 acres of vineyard are planted with 100% Riesling. For generations the family owns parcels in the famous Saarburger Rausch, a spectacular steep site with unique climatic conditions. The wines are very slowly fermented in aged wooden casks in the deepest cellar in the Saar valley – three stories beneath the earth’s surface with humidity and cool temperatures of around 11 degrees Celsius. The bottled Rieslings are stored here too, sometimes for decades. I quote the Zillikens: “Our wines are intended to mature. Many wines take decades to mature.”

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken produces 100% Riesling wines, of which about 80% is fermented in a sweet style. 70% of the production is exported. In the US, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken has been in the portfolio of Rudi Wiest Selection for a long time.

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Pictures: Cellar Tour at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Riesling from New York to Tokyo

Dorothee Zilliken: From uncomplicated and fresh estate wines to elegant bottles destined to accompany fine meals and sweet, late harvest wines that will only begin to mature and develop ten years after harvest, Zilliken Rieslings are beloved by aficionados from New York to Tokyo. Wine critics proclaim: Geltz Zilliken's wines are a perpetual player in the international Champion's League of wine. Put simply, they are among the finest Rieslings the world has to offer.

We aren't influenced by international trends and styles (except perhaps by a name like 'Butterfly'). We instead focus on timeless tradition, beginning with our labels, the same as those our grandfather placed on his bottles. There are no compromises when it comes to quality; we do things as they have always been done. Our dry Rieslings stand proudly in our portfolio, shoulder to shoulder with their better-known noble sweet counterparts — Auslese, Trockenbeeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The best of these wines will be sent to auction.

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Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

History

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is located in the Saar Valley, which belongs to the Mosel district, very close to France and Luxembourg. Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a founding member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925).

In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno Zilliken started in 1976 as cellar master and took ownership in 1981.

In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee Zilliken, who led the winetasting in Frankfurt am Main, joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim University and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau. Dorothee is married to Philipp Zilliken (nee Hoffmann), who is a career changer and recently started to work at the estate.

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Pictures: Dorothee Zilliken

Vineyard

With a vineyard area of 11 hectares, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a small estate. It is a family-run estate, with only 2 full-time employees and seasonal workers for the harvest. All grapes are sourced from its two VDP.Grosse Lage vineyards: Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein, including for its popular “Butterfly” wine.

Saarburger Rausch - Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein - Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

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Pictures: Hanno Zilliken

Wine Cellar

The Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken wine cellar is very special. I have heard this from many sources and Dorothee talked quite a bit about the cellar: We have a very old cellar. It's 100 years old and it's very dark, humid and cold. The humidity is always between 95% and 99% so it very high and looks like a cave that is always dropping. It's very good for our corks. When we close the cork it stays very soft and gentle which is perfect for the storage conditions. Especially for the normal sweet wines we can store them for: 30, 40 or 50 years in our cork cellar without recorking them. So these corks will always stay in the bottle which is perfect.

We are fermenting all our wines in our German oak barrels and not those stainless steel tanks but small barrels. The content is about 1000 liters and is toasted inside giving a flavor vanilla aroma to the wine. These German barrels are none toasted so they are neutral and not giving any flavors. However, we think that it's worth to work with these German barrels because they are rounding the wine a bit and gives the wine more harmony. From the working point of view, it would be much easier to have these tank steel barrels but we will then miss more taste in the mouth.

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Pictures: Christian and Annette Schiller with Dorothee Zilliken at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany. See: Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

Riesling

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a 100% Riesling producer. Dorothee Zilliken: We are just producing the Riesling grape variety. We think it's more worth to produce it there because we have a Devonian Slate terroir, which is the best condition for growing Riesling. We have very steep mountains vineyards that are between 30 and 60 degrees of steepness. We are only harvesting by hand which is very important for us because then you can safe all the quality of the grapes. Because if you are taking the housing machine and run through the vineyard lines it will also be catching as for example a lot of leaves and the pressure on the grapes is too high. This is the reason why we are only harvesting by hand.

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Pictures: Hanno Zilliken at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York. See: The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

US Importer Rudi Wiest: Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925). As an affirmation of his achievements, the estate still carries his name. In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno started on in 1976 as cellarmaster and took ownership in 1981. In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrad in the Rheingau.

The estate has one of the most unique cellars anywhere. It is three levels below ground and the deepest cellar in the Saar. It offers an unparalleled environment with near 100% humidity and a constant cool temperature of about 48°F. It is here that the wines are fermented and matured in German oak (neutral) 1,000 liter barrels also known as Fuders. This cool, damp environment provides optimal conditions to produce Rieslings with great aging potential. Quintessential Saar Rieslings! For example, top wines from the great 1983 vintage are still timelessly fresh.

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Hanno Zilliken at Rasika in Washington DC. See: German Wine Dinner with Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

The estate owns 11 ha of great Saar vineyards, planted 100% to Riesling and produces about 7,000 cs a year. The following Grand Cru vineyards are instrumental for the greatness of the estate:

Saarburger Rausch- Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein- Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

The Zilliken Estate was a founding member of the Mosel VDP.

Tasting

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2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Zilliken trocken VDP.Gutswein

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2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburg Riesling trocken Alte Reben VDP.Ortswein

2014 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling GG VDP.Grosse Lage

Very powerful wine notwithstanding moderate alcohol level

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2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Riesling Butterfly VDP.Gutswein

Lightly sweet like a butterfly

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2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Diabas VDP.Grosse Lage

Same fruit as the GG

2015 2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburg Riesling Kabinett VDP.Ortswein

Euro 13 ex winery, lively, citrus and mint notes

2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage

Euro 17 ex winery, a premier cru Kabinett

2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

7.5% alcohol

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2003 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage

Acidity is very gentle, despite the age, wine still has a long way to go

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2015 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Auslese VDP.Grosse Lage

Lots of tropical fruit aromas

2010 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel VDP.Grosse Lage

Goldkapsel, 150 gr. RS, honey and dry fig notes, a lot of citrus, still very fresh

2005 Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Rausch Riesling Auslese Lange Goldkapsel VDP.Grosse Lage

Lange Goldkapsel, more the style of a Beerenauslese, a more precise selection

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Bye-bye

Thanks Hanno for an extraordinary tasting.

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schiller-wine: Related Postings

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017)

Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Presents her Noble Rieslings at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

The 11 Winemakers: Rieslingfeier 2015 in New York City, USA

German Wine Dinner with Hanno Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Bourgogne in Riesling Land: Tasting at Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Ralp and Bernd Schönleber - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Johannes and Matthias Müller - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr, with Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Tasting at the Legendary Weingut J.J. Prüm with Amei Prüm– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps

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Picture: Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens and Tony Lawrence, Global Food and Wine Pairing Specialist, at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California

The 2016 American Wine Society (AWS) National Conference took place on Thursday, November 2 to Saturday, November 5, 2016, at the Hilton Orange County in Costa Mesa, South of Los Angeles. More than 400 AWS members from all over the USA came to this 3-day event, filled with tastings, seminars and presentations.

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Picture: The 2016 American Wine Society Annual Meetings

This posting covers a food and wine pairing tasting with the wines of Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac, Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens and Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist. It is part of a series of postings related to the American Wine Society National Conference 2016 in California:

The 2016 American Wine Society National Conference in California, USA: Seen Through Christian Schiller's Camera Lens

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Leading a Tasting at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

The Insider’s View of Charles Krug Winery - Peter Mondavi Jr., Co-Proprietor, Charles Krug Winery

Bordeaux: the Grands Crus Classes 2013 Vintage - Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications Marketing

Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens and Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist

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Picures: Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens and Tony Lawrence, Global Food and Wine Pairing Specialist, at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California

I knew both Bérénice Lurton and Tony Lawrence from earlier wine events.

We visited Bérénice Lurton, Owner/ Winemaker, Château Climens, on the 2015 ombiasy Tour to Bordeaux. See: Visiting and Tasting at Château Climens, with Owner Bérénice Lurton, Bordeaux, France

Tony is a prominent member of the German Wine Society Chapter (Philadelphia Chapter). I have organized a number of events for the GWS in Philadelphia, where I met Tony. See for example: New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

Château Climens

The estate was founded in 1547 by Guirault Roborel. In 1855, in the year Château Climens was classified a Premier Cru, Henri Gounouilhou, owner of an influential Bordeaux daily newspaper, bought the property. He used his influence in the media to boost the public’s recognition of Château Climens. Additionallly, Henri Gounouilhou improved the quality of the Climens wines to such a degree that Château Climens for some years challenged Château d'Yquem as the top estate in Sauternes. The vintages 1929, 1947 and 1949 were described by Alexis Lichine to surpass Château d'Yquem as "lighter, with less vinosity and body, yet miraculously subtle."

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Picures: Bérénice Lurton, Château Climens, and Annette Schiller at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California

In 1971, Lucien Lurton bought the estate, along with Château Doisy-Dubroca. It has been run by his daughter, Bérénice Lurton, since 1992. The Lurton family has done a wonderful job, continuing to improve on the already excellent quality reached under Gouonouilhou’s ownership. One specific step taken by the Lurton family was to remove all Muscadelle vines. Thus, today the 30 hectare estate is composed of 100% Semillon, unlike most Sauternes estates that incorporate a small portion of Sauvignon Blanc. There is one only vineyard and it is unchanged since growing of grapes started in the 16th century.

Château Climens also produces a second wine named Cypres de Climens. Château Climens is located in the south of the Barsac appellation, just outside the small village of La Pinesse.

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Picures: Bérénice Lurton, Château Climens, at the ombiasy WineTours Booth of Annette Schiller at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California

Winemaking

The poor limestone soil and damp morning weather is exactly how the estate got its name. When Climens is translated from the local dialect, it means unfertile, poor land.

The average age of the vines is 35 years. Yields are low, averaging 12 hectoliters per hectare. In some years the yield can drop as low as 8 hectoliters per hectare. This makes for an intensely aromatic and concentrated wine.

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Pictures: Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens, and Tony Lawrence, Global Food and Wine Pairing Specialist, and Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in California

During the entire harvest period each day’s harvest is sent to the winery where it will be vinified separately. The fermentation is controlled at 27 degrees Celsius and will last between 15 and 21 days. Once the ideal level of alcohol is reached (13.5%), the wine receives a thermal shock, quickly dropping the temperature down to 3 degrees Celsius, which halts the fermentation. The wine is then sent to barrel where it will be aged in 30% new oak. After 22 months of aging, the tasting team will taste all the individual wines and decide on two separate blends. The first and superior blend will be destined for the first label, Château Climens. The second tier blend, although still high in quality, will be bottled as the second label, Cyprès de Climens. About 30,000 bottles of the first label are produced and between 10,000 and 15,000 bottles of the second label.

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Picture: With Bérénice Lurton at Château Climens during the ombiasy Bordeaux Tour 2014

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Pictures: In the Vineyard of Château Climens during the ombiasy Bordeaux Tour 2014

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Pictures: Tasting with Bérénice Lurton at Château Climens

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Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller with Bérénice Lurton at Château Climens during the ombiasy Bordeaux Tour 2014

Noble Rot

At Château Climens the mornings are humid with fog and the afternoons are sunny. This provides the perfect conditions for the development of the botrytis cinerea. In order for all of the botrytised grapes to be harvested, the estate will conduct between 5 and 6 runs through the vineyard, each lasting 3 to 8 days, to ensure that only the botrytis infected grapes are picked.

Biodynamic

Château Climens is the first classified noble-sweet wine estate in Bordeaux to go biodynamic, with the assistance of Jean-Michel and Corinne Comme, who also consult for Château Pontet-Canet. Château Climens is aiming to be certified iodynamic in 2014.

Bérénice Lurton: “I believe passionately that biodynamics is the right way for us to go. We want to go back to our roots at Climens and help our wines find their own balance. Biodynamics brings life and vibrancy to the wines.”

Biodynamics can be difficult in the Bordeaux region. It is not the warmest area and there is a large amount of humidity from the Atlantic Ocean as well as the large rivers. So various vineyard problems have to be treated such as mildew and millederange.

Food and Wine Pairing Tasting: Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens and Tony Lawrence, Global Food and Wine Pairing Specialist

During the tasting Bérénice Lurton, with a combination of charm and knowledge, conveyed the philosophy of Château Climens, seeking to create wines which reflect the terroir from which they are produced, and the desire of Château Climens to produce, above all, wines of elegance and finesse rather than sweet wines of power and weight.

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Cyprès de Climens 2012 (US$41)

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Château Climens 2012 (US$70)

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Château Climens 2010 (US$113)

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Château Climens 2009 (US$132)

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Château Climens 2005 (US$119)

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Château Climens 1975 (US$262)

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Picture: Château du Clos de Vougeot

We visited Château du Clos de Vougeot. While the Château du Clos de Vougeot no longer produces wine these days, it remains the symbol of almost a thousand years of Burgundy history.

In the 12th century, the monks of the Cistercian Abbey, the owners of Clos-Vougeot thanks to donations from wealthy Burgundy nobles and purchases made by the abbey, grew vines here. They build a wall around the precious land of the Clos de Vougeot, which still defines this prestigious appellation today.

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Pictures: Arriving at Château du Clos de Vougeot

Transformed into a Renaissance château, this historic place has become a Mecca for wine and Burgundy conviviality.

Since 1934, Château du Clos Vougeot has been the seat of the "Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin" (Brotherhood of the Knights of the Tastevin (tasting cup)), which found the place to be a worthy setting for its work to promote Burgundy wines worldwide.

Seventeen times a year, the Chevaliers du Tastevin receive guests at a high-level evening event called “Chapitres”. New chevaliers are inducted and a dinner in the great Burgundy tradition of conviviality brings together 600 people in the château’s winery. The 12 000 Chevaliers du Tastevin are organised into many “commanderies” around the world, from New York to Hong Kong, via Rio de Janeiro.

While the château is not strictly speaking open, you can visit a number of its working buildings built by the Cistercian monks in the 12th century: the winery that houses four huge presses; the cellar, a building dating from the 12th century and built to accommodate 2000 wine casks, or the dormitory of the lay brothers whose magnificent woodwork dates from the 14th century.

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Pictures: Tour of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Clos de Vougeot (Clive Coates)

Burgundy is light on images. While in Bordeaux most of the château facades are known to wine-lovers all over the world, for the images are depicted on the labels on the bottles, Burgundy has only two immediately recognizable to outsiders: the interior courtyard of the Hospices in Beaune, and the Château of the Clos de Vougeot.

Like much of Burgundy, the origins of the Clos de Vougeot are ecclesiastical. In 1098, Robert, Abbot of the Clunaic Benedictine abbey of Molesmes, near Langres, north of Dijon, decided to form a new order. He felt strongly that the original virtues of poverty, chastity and obedience, laid down by the founding saint, had become too relaxed. The top ecclesiastics slept in comfortable beds, wore sumptuous clothes, and eat and drank like gluttons. Nor, it seems, were they very enthusiastic about celibacy. Robert only managed to persuade some 20 of his order to join him, but they duly left Molesmes and settled in marshy land some 15 kilometres east of Nuis-Saint-Georges. From the Latin name of the reeds (cistus) which surrounded their new monastery came the name of this new order: the Cistercians. Not having suitable land in the vicinity for the vine, the monks followed a little river, the Vouge, upstream until they reached the Côte. There amongst the mixed farming prevalent at the time, they saw vines. They bought a parcel of land, enclosed it within a wall, and set about constructing a winery and living quarters for those who would be responsible on the spot for tending the vines and making the wine. This edifice, much modified since, is today's Château du Clos de Vougeot.

The vineyard remained in church ownership, if not in ecclesiastical management, for parcels had been rented off to local laymen, until the French Revolution. Like most of the land owned by the church the Clos was sequestered by the state, and on January 17th., 1791 it was auctioned off to a Jean Foquard, a Parisian banker. He failed to settle the bill, and the authorities were forced to ask the old cellar master to continue to run the estate while they sought an owner with more reliable finances. Eventually the Clos passed to Jules Ouvrard, local deputé in the post-Restoration parliament, and also owner of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. This wine was made at the Clos.

Ouvrard died in 1860, and the Clos was divided into six parts to enable it to be sold. Six soon became fifteen, and inexorably the Clos became more and more morcellated. Today there are over 80 proprietors and some 120 different parcels. The Château belongs to the local wine promotional organisation, the Chevaliers du Tastevin.

The Clos de Vougeot is notorious for being a grand cru whose land stretches all the way down to the main Nuits-Dijon highway. Surely, we argue, the land at the bottom cannot produce grand cru wine? On either side we have mere village Vougeot or Vosne-Romanée. Of course this is an anomaly. But today it is set in stone and there is little we can do about it. And as Jean Grivot, who has vines which stretch up from the main road about two-fifths of the way up, will point out: 'When the weather is hot you need fruit from the more humid, water-retaining lower slopes. When the weather is against you you need the better drained upslope wines.' Back in the middle ages, as today at Maximin Grunhaus in the Moselle, we are told that there were three cuvées of Clos de Vougeot: that from the upper part, reserved for the Abbot and favoured guests, that from the middle, for the monks, and that from the lower slopes, sold off in bulk.

The largest owner of land within the Clos today is the Château de la Tour, with almost five and a half hectares out of just over 50. Theirs is the only wine matured and bottled within the Clos, in a nasty 19th. century building of no architectural merit whatsoever situated half way up the slope on the northern side. The wine used to be good, fell off a bit, but is now improving. This is the only proprietor to offer a vieilles vignes as well as a normal cuvée. Others with more than one hectare whose wines can be recommended include Méo-Camuzet, Louis Jadot, Leroy, Grivot, Gros Frère et Soeur, the Domaine de la Vougeraie, the Domaine Eugenie (Engel as was), Lamarche, Faiveley and Drouhin-Laroze.

Those with less than one hectare that I would look out for include: Hudelot-Noëllat, Arnoux, Bertagna, Bouchard Père et Fils, Confuron-Coteditot, J.J. Confuron, Drouhin, Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot), Anne Gros, Michel Gros, Denis Mortet, Mugneret-Gibourg and Thibaut Liger-Belair.

Clos de Vougeot is rarely a really great wine. I can only remember two such bottles: a 1937 Camuzet (predecessor of today's Méo-Camuzet, and Jean Gros' (father of Michel) 1985, the last vintage from vines planted in 1902. I still have a couple of bottles of this. No, Clos de Vougeot is a second division grand cru. But it is ample and generous, succulent and slightly spicy, and should be thoroughly enjoyable.

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

At Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

Charcuterie and Fromage at Chez Pascal in Saint Emilion - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

The New Germany: Red, Sparkling and Dry - Tasting at the American Wine Society 2016 National Conference in Los Angeles, USA, led by Annette Schiller

Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken are Winemaker of the Year (Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2017)

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser with Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Haag – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016

Wine-pairing Dinner at Scharffs Schlossweinstube (1 Star Michelin) and Weingut Kassner-Simon, with Chef Martin Scharff and Owner/ Winemaker Thomas Simon, Heidelberg, Germany

The Best German Red Wines - Deutscher Rotweinpreis 2016 (German Red Wine Awards 2016)

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

The New Classification of German Wines: The VDP Classification - Annette Schiller Leading a Tasting at the 2016 National Convention of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles, USA

Wine-pairing Lunch at the 1-star Michelin Restaurant Claude Darroze, with Marie-Hélène Lévêque, Owner of Châteaux Chantegrive - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Book Review by Christian Schiller in Journal of Wine Economics (Vol 11, No 2): JOHN WINTHROP HAEGER: Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright and Dry. University of California Press, Oakland, 2016, 369 pp., ISBN 978-0-520-27545-4, $39.95

BOOK REVIEWS

Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George, from Barrel and from Bottle, with Thibault Liger-Belair - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Rising Stars in Germany: Promotions in the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2017

Visit: Château de Chantegrive, Appellation Grave, with Owner Marie-Hélène Lévêque - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France

Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken with Hanno Zilliken - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Château Climens, Premier Cru Barsac and Savory Dishes…who knew? - Bérénice Lurton, Owner of Château Climens & Tony Lawrence, Global Food & Wine Pairing Specialist, at the 2016 National Conference of the American Wine Society in Los Angeles

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours