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Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Picture: Champagne Reception at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé

The last event of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy was a tour of and dinner at Château Haut-Bailly. It was a most memorable evening thanks to our charming host, Diana Paulin, the very special setting in the dining and the living rooms of Château Haut-Bailly, the excellent food of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot, and – last but not least - the superb Chateau Haut-Bailly wines.

Pictures: Arriving at Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly

Château Haut-Bailly is a Graves Cru Classé estate that has really hit form in the last 5-7 years. It is located in the commune of Léognan, which is usually more associated with white wine production. Just a stone’s throw away from the city of Bordeaux and our hotel, Château Haut-Bailly, one of the most prestigious Cru Classé de Graves, sits majestically in a 30 hectare vineyard at the heart of the Graves region on the left bank of the river Garonne. Neighboring estates include Château Malartic-Lagravière, Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Carbonnieux. The estate's second wine is named Le Parde de Haut-Bailly.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

At Château Haut-Bailly wine has been produced for more than five centuries. Like many Bordeaux estates, the property changed owners multiple times over the centuries. However, three owner families put their mark on the estate.

First, in 1630 it was bought by the Le Bailly family which eventually gave the estate its name. In those days the château had about 80 acres under vine, roughly the same as today. There were many ups and downs during the centuries and by the 1950s the estate was in a sorry state.

Pictures: Cellar Tour

Second, a wine merchant from Belgium, Daniel Sanders, bought the château in 1955 and started intensive renovations. His efforts proofed him right and Château Haut-Bailly was one of the 16 wine producers awarded with the Grand Cru Classé certification in the 1959 classification of the Graves estates.

Finally, in 1998, Elisabeth and Robert G. Wilmers – he is an American banker, she is French – bought Château Haut-Bailly and spared no expenses to invest in the vineyards, winery, and the château to give the estate the possibility to keep producing top quality wines.

Today, Château Haut-Bailly is managed by Véronique Sanders, fourth generation of the Sanders family.

Pictures: Bumping into the Cellar Master

Château Haut-Bailly Portfolio

Château Haut-Bailly has 28 hectares of vineyards which are very well sited on high, gravelly ground just east of Léognan village. In total the estate produces 150,000 bottles annually. Approximately 50% of production from the property is Grand Vin, 30% is second and 20% is third wine, although this will depend on the 
vintage.

Grand Vin: Château Haut-Bailly

The wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). The grapes are fermented in 26 concrete tanks of different sizes. The wines are aged for 18 months in new (about 50%) and used barrique barrels. There are 3 different cellars for barrel aging.

La Parde de Haut-Bailly

The estate's second wine is La Parde de Haut-Bailly, produced since 1967, but under the name Domaine de la Parde until 1979. It is aged in barrels for 12 months.

Pessac-Léognan by Chateau Haut-Bailly

The property’s third wine, "Pessac-Léognan," which bears the same name as its appellation, was created in 1987. It comes from young vines – an accessible wine that has spent less time in barrel and can be enjoyed young.

Rose de Haut-Bailly

Since 2004, Château Haut-Bailly has produced a ‘rosé de saignée’ when the conditions allow.

Robert G. Wilmers, Owner of Château Haut-Bailly

In 1998 Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by American Robert G. Wilmers, chairman and CEO of the M & T Bank based in Buffalo, New York. As a lover of Bordeaux Grands Crus, his dream came true when he became the owner at Haut-Bailly. He spent much of his childhood and professional life in Belgium. Along with his French wife, Elisabeth, he continues his close ties with Europe, where some of their family live.

Pictures: In the Cellar

Hugely conscious of Haut-Bailly’s history yet eager to ensure continuity and modernity, he entrusted in 1998 Haut-Bailly’s management to Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of Jean Sanders.

Véronique Sanders, General Manager

In 1998, at the age of 30, Véronique Sanders became the General Manager of Château Haut-Bailly, making her one of a very small number of women in charge of a vineyard and the fourth generation of her family to be associated with Haut-Bailly. After two years of preparation at the Grandes Ecoles françaises, she obtained a Master’s degree in economics at the Sorbonne. She began her career at Publicis-FCB in Paris and Prague. Deciding to improve her knowledge about wine, she returned to Bordeaux in 1997 to obtain her DUAD diploma from the Faculty of Oenology. Following the sale of Château Haut-Bailly by her grandfather, Jean Sanders, Robert G. Wilmers appointed Véronique as Commercial Director in 1998 and General Manager in 2000.

Champagne on the Deck

Amuses Gueules

NV Pol Roger

One of the great nonvintage Champagnes, this is a wine with considerable bottle age, full of toasty flavors. With its gooseberry and apple fruit flavors, it is still fresh, but its great character comes from its supreme elegance. 94 pts. Wine Enthusiast: December 1, 2005. Approximately US$40

Pictures: Champagne Reception

Wine Pairing Dinner

Pictures: Wine Pairing Dinner

Cep mushroom raviolis

Picture: Cep Mushroom Raviolis

La Parde de Haut Bailly 2012

Better than many of the Haut-Baillys made in the 1970s and 1980s, the second wine exhibits nice, sweet black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, cedar, earth and spice box. It is lovely, round, seductive, medium-bodied and best drunk over the next 10-12 years. It’s a perfect second wine, with much of the character of its bigger sibling. Robert Parker, April 2015. 89 points. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$23

Picture: La Parde de Haut Bailly 2012

Rack of veal and roasted figs

Picture: Rack of Veal and Roasted Figs

Château Haut-Bailly 2011

Absolutely brilliant - again! The lovely and charming Veronique Sanders and the team at Ch. Haut-Bailly have done it once more. In a vintage where all the châteaux really did have to craft their babies and contend with more than problematic growing conditions, Ch. Haut-Bailly has come out almost on top of the pile, surpassing several First Growths in quality. Sadly the rigorous selection needed to make the Grand Vin so Grand will make a staggering effect on supply this year in what is an already tiny production.

Picture: Château Haut-Bailly 2011

Incredible intensity and deep red and black fruit with the finest tannins of the vintage coating the palate. It has precision, grace, complexity and power with an outstanding richness that fills the mouth completely. Better than 2009 or 2010? It sort of sits between the two. The power of 2009 and finesse of 2010. A real must have and I think the price will be down on last year, but I worry about being able to buy enough. Heavenly happiness! Simon Staples, Berry Bros. and Rudd’s Fine Wine Director. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$87

Cheeses

Picture: Cheeses

Château Haut-Bailly 2007

Manager Véronique Sanders and Technical Director Gabriel Vialhard have worked wonders here, catapulting Haut-Bailly into the very highest echelon of Bordeaux wines. The 2007 is as silky-textured and seductive as ever with refined, creamy black cherry and redcurrant fruit and a powerful yet feminine charm. The nose is more serious than usual with ripe raspberries and coffee hints, while the famous Haut Bailly terroir bursts through on the finish alongside firm, supple tannins and intense, minerally fruit. Made with more Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) than usual, this is another absolutely irresistible Haut-Bailly. Simon Staples, Berry Bros. and Rudd’s Fine Wine Director. Wine-Searcher Average Price: US$67

Picture: Château Haut-Bailly 2007

Vanilla parfait and cherry sorbet

Picture: Vanilla Parfait and Cherry Sorbet

Picture: The Wines

Tea, Coffee

Pictures: Tea/ Coffee

In the Kitchen of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

Thank you very much Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot for an outstanding dinner.

Pictures: Last Stage - Visit in the Kitchen of Chef Jean-Charles Poinsot

Going Home

What an evening!

Picture: Good Night

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Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

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Picture: Tasting with Amrei Prüm, Weingut J.J. Prüm, Mosel

We spent 7 days (Thursday, May 05, 2016 – Wednesday, May 11, 2016) touring 5 wine German regions (Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Ahr, Mosel and Nahe), tasting fabulous wines, meeting world-renowned wine makers, visiting a top notch Sekt house, and delving deep into German history and culture.

The group was small - there were 5 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview. More specific postings focusing on individual events will follow (see list below).

On the Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, we visited a total of 17 wineries in 5 different wine regions: Rheingau, the jewel in the crown, with its perfect, fuller bodied, racy Rieslings; Mittelrhein where the Rieslings grow on the steep slopes of the fortress- and castle-ribboned banks of the Rhine river; Ahr with its sun collecting canyons perfect for the finicky Pinot Noir grape; Mosel with its dizzying steep vineyards and famous elegant Rieslings; Nahe and its serene, peaceful valley where perfect harmonious wines reflect their roots.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Germany. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of Germany and close personal ties to many personalities in the wine scene, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to comprehend what German wine is all about.

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

DAY 1: Thursday, May 05

09:30 am Departure in Frankfurt.

10:15 am Visit and tasting at winery von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau.

Owner and winemaker Achim von Oetinger was our host.

The family of the „Knights and Nobles“ von Oetinger can look back to the year 1828 for winemaking tradition in Erbach. In 1958 the estate was divided between the brothers Eberhard and Robert. Recently the two estates have become one again and the winery is managed by Achim von Oetinger, Robert’s grandson, and his wife Julia. Achim’s uncle Eberhard was a very prominent personality in the German wine world; famous for his skills as auctioneer at the world-renowned wine auctions in the Eberbach Abbey and nicknamed the Karajan of wine auctions. 30 acres of vineyards now belong to the estate, of which 90% are planted with Riesling, the rest with the Burgundy grapes: Pinot-Noir, Pinot-Blanc, Pinot-Gris. Achim pursues quality with a vengeance and the perfect combination of traditional Rheingau values and modern business management produces wines that increase in quality from one year to the next. Last year, Germany’s most famous wine critic, Stuart Pigott, nominated Achim von Oetinger “discovery of the year”.










12:20 pm Lunch at the restaurant of Eberbach Abbey.

Still a world-class winery today, the Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine River. Today Eberbach Abbey is one of the five State-owned wineries (the State of Hesse is its proprietor) and with 500 acres the largest winery in Germany. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive. The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 750 acres, the largest in medieval Europe.




02:00 pm Guided tour of the Eberbach Abbey

We got an in-depth guided tour of the Abbey, including a visit of the old monk’s dormitory where every year the famous auction of premium German wines takes place. A very special treat was a peek into the treasure chamber, where century old wine bottles are still stored and where the movie “The Name of the Rose” with Sean Connery was filmed in 1986.





03:15 pm Tasting at winery Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau.

Technical Director Michel Städter was our host. Our visit coincided with Weingut Chat Sauvage’s “Schlemmerwochen” (gourmet week) event.

Weingut Chat Sauvage is the odd ball among the traditional century old wineries in the Rheingau. It was founded in 2001 and is the baby of Günter Schulz, who made his money - and still does - outside of the wine industry. The Burgundy grapes are his passion, in particular Pinot Noir. He had the dream to create his own top notch Pinot Noir in the Rheingau where there is a tradition of producing premium Pinot Noir. The winery is run by Michel Städter, who is also the cellar master. 4/5 of the production is Pinot Noir and 1/5 is Chardonnay. 2/3 of the vineyards are steep slopes. All work in Chat Sauvage’s vineyards is manual work. Considerable attention is paid to keeping the yields low, with first pruning after flowering, a green harvest, as well as selective hand-picking. In the cellar, traditional maceration, 18 months aging in barrique and no filtration are among the guiding principles for making premium wines.







05:30 pm At Hotel F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel.

Hotel F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel is a 3 star, small, cosy, meticulously kept family-run hotel within the Wein-und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in the picturesque wine village of Östrich.



06:30 pm Cellar tour and tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau.

Owners/winemakers Bernd and Ralf Schönleber were our hosts.

With the highest per capita ratio, the Germans are world champions in sparkling wine (called “Sekt” in Germany) consumption and also top Sekt producers. It was againsts this background that we visit a top Sekt House, which focuses on quality and produces Sekt made only in the traditional bottle fermentation method. The Schönleber family can trace its viticulture tradition back to the year 1783. Today the winery is managed by winemaker brothers Bernd and Ralf Schönleber. They own 25 acres of vineyards of which 94% are planted with Riesling and 6 % with Pinot Noir, and they produce 80,000 bottles of Riesling and 20,000 bottles of Sekt, the German equivalent of Champagne. The quote of the GaultMillau wineguide for Germany says it all: “This is one of the most reliable wine estates of the Rheingau and it thoroughly understands how to produce top dry Rieslings and excellent sparkling wines.”








07:30 pm Dinner at wine restaurant F.B. Schönleber.

Bernd and Ralf’s parents are operating the hotel and wine restaurant. We had dinner there with matching wines. Bernd, Ralf and their father joint us for part of the dinner. I had Steak Tartare.





DAY 2: Friday, May 06

09:30 am Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting at winery Leitz in Rüdesheim.

Johannes Leitz was our host. He gave us a spectacular vineyard tour and showed us his new production facility. New Managing Director Markus Röll led the tasting.

The Leitz Family’s viticulture history goes back to 1744 and has been passed on from one generation to the next for almost four centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, the winery had 7.5 acres of vineyards and was unknown among German wine connoisseurs. Under the leadership of Johannes “Josi” Leitz, the winery grew in size to 100 acres, and he pursued quality in an uncompromising manner. 99% of his vineyards are planted with Riesling. He was able to acquire top Riesling sites in the famous Rüdesheimer Berg (= mountain) vineyards - Berg Schloßberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rotland, on the mountain above Rüdesheim facing the south. Unusual for a German winery, Josi exports 90% of his wines, with the US being the most important market.













12:00 am Lunch at restaurant Kronenstube in the hotel Krone in Assmannshausen.

Since 1541 the hotel Krone which sits right on the bank of the Rhine River is a well-known address for a refined life style and the restaurant has been recognized as a paradise by gourmets and bon vivants from all over the world.



02:15 pm Cellar tour and tasting at winery August Kesseler in Assmanshausen.

Winemaker Simon Batarseh was our host.

August Kesseler was only 19 years old when he had to take over the winery from his parents. In those days there were only 4,5 acres of vineyards and the wines were sold in bulk. August developed the winery into a prominent estate of 49 acres and into a flagship for German Pinot Noir. The manor house sits directly on the slate outcrops of the famous vineyard site “Assmannshäuser Höllenberg” and the cellar is hewn into the slate rocks. The micro-climate and porosity of the soil make the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg an ideal site for Pinot Noir. August also has vineyards in the extremely steep and very warm Rüdesheim hills. These vineyards are planted with Riesling and produce gorgeous wines with concentrated fruit and perfect acidity.








05:05 pm Rhine River cruise from Lorch to Boppard.

Cruise on the Rhine, passing the famous Loreley Rock and the slopes of the Mittelrhein wine region. Time to indulge in the breathtakingly beautiful view of the Rhine River and its banks dotted with vineyards, and castles, fortresses, and ruins dating from the middle ages. The Middle-Rhine valley is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.






07:00 pm At Hotel- and Golfresort Jakobsberg, in Boppard, Mittelrhein.

Hotel- and Golfresort Jakobsberg in Boppard is a 4 star luxurious hotel in the mountains overlooking Boppard with a fantastic view on the Rhine River and the “Bopparder Hamm”, the famous vineyard site.


DAY 3: Saturday, May 07

09:30 am Tasting at winery Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein.

Owners/winemakers Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller were our hosts. Our visit coincided with Weingut Matthias Müller’s annual presentation of the new vintage.

For more than 300 years the Müller family has cultivated vines in the steep vineyards of the famous Bopparder Hamm. The winery currently has 42 acres under vine and 95% is planted with Riesling. Riesling flows through the veins of Matthias Müller. His familiarity with the innate characteristics of his vineyard sites lets him imagine a wine’s possible potential and he follows his instincts during production. His first-class Rieslings are racy, fruit-driven, and very lively. Son Johannes finished his oenology studies at the University of Geisenheim and slowly the torch is passed to the next generation. Johannes already set his mark in 2013 by planting Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) grapes.






11:00 pm Following the tasting, en route to Boppard, we stopped in the famous Bopparder Hamm.





12:00 pm Lunch at the beautiful Belle Epoque restaurant Le Bristol in the Hotel Bellevue in Boppard right on the bank of the Rhine river.




01:45 pm Departure and drive to the northernmost red wine region, the Ahr.

03:00 pm Visit and tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr.

This estate lies in a breathtakingly beautiful area of the Ahr valley. The Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss is the oldest wine cooperative world-wide. It was established in 1868 by 18 founding members. The coop grew fast; by 1881 it already had 141 members. Today, after two mergers with neighboring coops the membership is at 420 winegrowers who farm 425 acres of vineyards – among them vineyards is the most prominent sites of the Ahr valley. 60% is planted with Pinot Noir, 20% with Riesling, 5% with Frühburgunder (also known under the names Pinot Madeleine or Pinot Noir Précoce) and 15% with a variety of other grapes. The coop produces 1,3 million bottles of wine, annually.







05:15 pm At Steigenberger Hotel in Bad Neuenahr.

The Steigenberger Hotel in Bad Neuenahr is a 4 ½ star hotel that combines the graciousness of the past with modern comforts of today. Excellent spa facilities using the hot springs of the spa town Bad Neuenahr and the location at the Kurpark near the banks of the Ahr River make this hotel very special.

The evening was free to explore the charming spa town which is famous for its hot springs or use the spa facilities of the hotel.



DAY 4: Sunday, May 08:

09:45 am Tasting at winery Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr.

Owners/winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten were our hosts.

This winery has long been recognized as one of the top estates for producing great Pinot-Noirs. The Ahr valley north of the 50 °latitude is unquestionable the northernmost region for producing top Pinot-Noirs. The secret lies in an ideal micro-climate found in the narrow canyons along the river with their very special geological conditions, and south-facing slopes. Wine making along the tiny Ahr river goes back to Roman times. The winery Kreuzberg is a young estate by German standards. It was founded in 1953 by the grandfather of the current co-owner, Ludwig Kreuzberg. However the Kreuzberg family was involved in wine before and active in the local wine cooperative. Today’s winery encompasses 22 acres of vineyards, among them 8 sites that are classified as “Grosses Gewächs”. 2/3s of their vineyards are on steep slopes with a high proportion of Devonian slate; soils that give the Ahr wines their typical character. Ludwig Kreuzberg does not believe in trendy winemaking techniques. His top wines spend considerable time ageing in barriques.







11.45 am Guided tour through the historic underground safety bunker of the West German Government.

We experienced recent post World War II history. The Ahr valley is just a 30 minute drive from Bonn, which was the temporary West German capital from 1947 until reunification in 1990. Here, under the Ahr mountainous vineyards an old train tunnel lays dormant. During the “Cold War” period the Germans decided to convert the tunnel to an atomic bomb proofed underground facility of 897 offices and 936 bedrooms to where the government could be evacuated in case of a threat and political emergency.

01:30 pm Lunch at Gutsschänke Meyer-Näkel in Dernau.






03:00 pm Drive to the Mosel Valley.

04:30 pm Tasting at winery Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel.

Markus Molitor was in Asia and his partner Eike Kaspari was our host. Our visit coincided with Weingut Markus Molitor’s annual presentation of the new vintage.

“80% inclination – 94% Riesling – 100% passion” that is the slogan of Markus Molitor, the Falstaff (Austrian life style magazine) winemaker of the year 2014. Ungrafted vines, some of them more than 100 years old, form the basis for the Molitor incomparable, fine Mosel Reslings. This is quite a large estate with 150 acres of vineyards spread out within the Mosel and Saar valley. Because of the diversity of the slate soils and microclimates of the different vineyard sites, the wines at this estate represent every variety of Mosel wine. Due to the extreme steepness of the vineyard sites and passion for quality, everything is harvested by hand. Harvest is a decisive factor for the quality of the wines. Despite the increased risk, Markus Molitor harvests quite late. This gives the grapes time to ripen physiologically – the most important criterion to develop the optimum balance of the wines with increased extract values and animating acidity.









From Weingut Markus Molitor you have a good view of the new Mosel bridge which is being built notwithstanding massive opposition.


06:45 pm At Hotel Bellevue in Traben-Trarbach, Mosel.

Hotel Bellevue in Traben-Trarbach is a 4 star romantic and very elegant spa hotel of the Belle Epoque era where the rich and famous of this bygone era stayed when they visited the Mosel.






DAY 5: Monday, May 09

09:45 am Tasting at winery Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel.

Amrei Prüm was our host.

The contrast cannot be bigger between our previous winery visits and a visit to this world-famous estate on the banks of the Mosel River. At the J.J. Prüm winery all wines are Rieslings and all are sweet. The wines are of great aristocracy, and are renowned for their precision, focus, finesse, and legendary ageing potential, regardless of the way how they achieved their level of sweetness (by chaptalizing or adding sweet reserve or through noble rot). Viticulture traditions in the Prüm family go back to the 17th century, although the J. J. Prüm estate as we know it today, only came into being in 1911 when the property was divided up between seven heirs. Third generation Dr. Manfred Prüm, is the winemaker and owns the estate together with his brother Wolfgang Prüm and his daughter, fourth generation Dr. Katharina Prüm. To describe what winemaking in the Mosel region means, I like to second what Katharina once said: “The Mosel region boasts the coolest climate for wines in the entire Europe, which has both its advantages and disadvantages. Riesling grapes have a longer maturation time on the vines, resulting in more natural acidity and freshness but it’s also harder to achieve ripeness”.










11:45 am Departure and short drive to the village of Bernkastel-Kues.

12:00 pm We took a quick look around in this picture-perfect little town with its half-timbered houses and the famous vineyard “Bernkasteler Doctor”, which sits right at the edge of town.


12:30 pm Lunch at restaurant Ratskeller in Bernkastel-Kues.


02:15 pm Tasting at winery Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel.

Owner/winemaker Thomas Haag was our host.

Lieser is a small wine village on the bank of the Mosel river and its landmark is a mighty slate castle, once belonging to the Barons of Schorlemer. In 1904 Clemens Baron of Schorlemer, Secretary of Agriculture in the Prussian government of Emperor William II, built the wine estate Schloss Lieser next to the castle and produced some of the greatest wines of the Mosel region. In 1970 the estate was sold and changed hands several times leading to a decline in quality of the wines and the estate. In 1992 Thomas Haag was hired as general manager and cellar master to turn around the estate. This was a tremendous challenge since the winery, buildings, and vineyards were in a very bad shape and without any established clientele or library of wines. Thomas Haag - graduate of the oenolological university in Geisenheim - had numerous years of experience at his parent’s 400 year old premium wine estate in Brauneberg -just 8 minutes from Lieser- and was therefore the perfect candidate for this endeavor. He was able to purchase Schloss Lieser in 1997 and with relentless work he successfully restored the estate to its former glory. The reward came this year: The GaultMillau honored Thomas Haag as “winemaker of the year 2015” and the winery Schloss Lieser got its 5th grape, the highest classification which was awarded to only 11 wineries in all of Germany.









05:00 pm At Mercure Hotel in Trier.

The Mercure Hotel in Trier is a modern 4 star hotel near the heart of the city center and just across the street from the Porta Nigra.


05:30 pm Sightseeing tour through Trier.

Trier sits on the banks of the Mosel River and is the oldest city in Germany. In Roman times it was the largest city north of the Alps, and the second most important city of the Roman Empire. For some years it even became an imperial city. This 2000 year old city is a treasure trove of Roman and German history, and pagan and Christian culture. There is so much to see in Trier, but the famous landmarks from Roman times are a must: the Porta Nigra, the amphitheatre, and the imperial thermal baths. The most eminent citizen of Trier in modern times was Karl Marx, who was born and raised here.


The city tour ended at the wine tavern of Weingut Reichsgraf zu Kesselstadt, where we had dinner.


DAY 6: Tuesday, May 10

09:30 am Cellar tour and tasting at winery Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar.

Hanno Zilliken was our host.

The Zilliken family traces its winegrowing tradition back to 1742. Royal Prussian Forest Superintendent Ferdinand Geltz (1985 –1925) however laid the groundwork for what would become one of the grandest family-owned estates in the Mosel appellation. He was also co-founder of the Association of Elite Wine Estates (VDP). Today Hanno Zilliken and daughter Dorothee, both gifted winemakers run the estate with Hanno’s wife Ruth overseeing sales. The 27 acres of vineyard are planted with 100% Riesling. For generations the family owns parcels in the famous Saarburger Rausch, a spectacular steep site with unique climatic conditions. The wines are very slowly fermented in aged wooden casks in the deepest cellar in the Saar valley – three stories beneath the earth’s surface with humidity and cool temperatures of around 11 degrees Celsius. The bottled Rieslings are stored here too, sometimes for decades. I quote the Zillikens: “Our wines are intended to mature. Many wines take decades to mature.”









11:30 am Departure and drive to the Nahe wine region.

01:00 pm Lunch at restaurant Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe.

Former Michelin-starred Chef Herbert Langendorf (Ente in Wiesbaden) cooks here (just around the corner of Weingut Hexamer).








03:00 pm Tasting at winery Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe.

Mats Genheimer, the partner of Heike Peter, the sister of Tim Fröhlich, was our host.

The Fröhlich family has been cultivating vines since 1800. In the early 90s Tim took over the family estate and created his own first vintage in 1995. Since then he has been awarded lots of titles by various German wine competitions, such as winemaker of the year by Gault-Millau, number one at the Berlin Riesling Cup, etc. The outstanding steep vineyard sites are the foundation for unmistakable, authentic wines. In conjunction with these great sites, low yields, painstaking vineyard management, a strong feeling for wild yeast fermentation, perfectionism in the cellar, and a lust for minerality are the hallmark of the Schäfer-Fröhlich wines. John Gilman sums it up nicely: “Tim Fröhlich is at the absolute top of his game these days, and tasting here is a little bit like watching Roger Federer play tennis in 2006 or 2007!"








05:45 pm At NH-Hotel in Bingen.

The NH-Hotel in Bingen is a 4 star very modern hotel beautifully situated at the confluence of the Nahe and Rhine rivers, with stunning views across the Rhine to the vineyards and castles on the Rheingau side.
We had time to relax and to soak in the gorgeous view towards the vineyards of the Rheingau on the other side of the Rhine river.

07:00 pm Dinner with wine pairing at the new wine tavern of winery Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen.

Stefan Rumpf joint us for the dinner and presented his wines.

“In our family, viniculture has been a tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” says Georg Rumpf. Today, the vineyard totals about 50 acres and the annual production is 14,000 cases. Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father Stefan now focuses more on sales, and his mother Cornelia manages the restaurant. The wines, gourmet regional food, the hospitality and warmth of the family, and the ambiance in this lovely estate where modernism is perfectly combined with tradition, are outstanding. Since early 2016, they also run the wine tavern in Bingen, where we had dinner with Stefan Rumpf.







DAY 7: Wednesday, May 11

09:15 am Tasting at winery Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe: Riesling and Rock 'N' Roll.

Martin Tesch was our host.

The Tesch winery exists since 1723 and is founding member of the VDP Nahe. Dr. Martin Tesch, a PhD microbiologist, took over the winery in 1996 and has presided over fundamental changes both in the vineyard and the wine cellar as well as in the marketing of the Tesch wines. He streamlined the portfolio and only three varietals were left for cultivation, Riesling, Pinot-Blanc, and Pinot-Noir, with Riesling accounting for 85% of the vines. He only produces bone-dry wines and has moved to natural and non-interventionist winemaking and strict yield control of between 20-30 hl/ha. The harvest is manual and he picks the grapes at full ripeness, but avoids botrytis. Martin’s signature wine is “Riesling Unplugged”, reflecting the recorded “unplugged” albums for the MTV unplugged CD series: creating wine or music with as much authenticity as possible. Last year Martin left the VDP because of a dispute over the new VDP classification.









11:15 am Drive to Hattenheim. This drive again involved a ferry ride across the Rhine River.


12:00 pm Cellar tour and wine pairing lunch at winery Hans Lang in Hattenheim.

Owners/winemakers Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps, with assistant winemaker Eckart Waitz, were our hosts.

Winery Hans Lang was founded in 1953, in the post World War II era. Hans Lang, son of the founder, converted the winery to organic viticulture and became member of the Ecovin Association for Organic Viticulture in 2012. Dry wines have a long tradition at the estate and account for 90% of the portfolio. Recently the estate was sold to Swiss businessman Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps, former Managing Director of the VDP, the Association of German Premium Wine Estates.










03:30 pm Arrival at Frankfurt International Airport

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Visit and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger

Lunch and Tour: Eberbach Abbey

Tasting at Weingut Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Bernd and Ralph Schönleber

Vineyard tour, Cellar tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh

Cruise on the Rhine River from Lorch to Boppard

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Frau Prüm

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps





Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger – Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting with Achim von Oetinger, Weingut von Oetinger, Erbach, Rheingau

The first stop on the Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours was an old buddy of Annette and me: Achim von Oetinger. Based in Erbach in the Rheingau, which is 45 minutes away from Frankfurt by car, we see him regularly at events when we are in Germany.

Pictures: Welcome

Achim von Oetinger is one of the new stars of the Rheingau. It is not without reason that he was Stuart Pigott’s Discovery of the Year 2015. See: Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2014)

Weingut von Oetinger is undergoing a major transformation, as Achim is in the process of re-integrating the winery of his cousin into Weingut von Oetinger. Both wineries used to be one winery 3 generations ago.

Achim showed us around and poured some wine for us. We walked over to what is left of the former winery of his cousin and then back to Weingut von Oetinger, where we visited the cellar and tried half a dozen of wines on the terrace.

Picture: Achim von Oetinger with Annette and Christian Schiller at the 2015 Wine Week in Wiesbaden, Germany. See: Schiller’s Impressions from the 2015 Wine Week in Wiesbaden, Germany

Weingut von Oetinger

The von Oetinger family can look back on a viticultural tradition dating from 1828. Achim von Oetinger, the third generation of the founding family, and his wife Julia run the Erbach estate today. Achim sees the estate as a successful blend of traditional Rheingau conventions and a modern enterprise. Or, as Achim puts it, this is where the traditional and contemporary worlds meet. In 1958 the estate was divided between the brothers Eberhard and Robert. Recently, the two estates have become one again. 11 hectares of vineyards now belong to the estate, of which 90% are planted with Riesling, the rest with the Burgundy grapes: Pinot-Noir, Pinot-Blanc, Pinot-Gris.

Pictures: Walking over to the Former Estate of Achim's Cousin

Stuart Pigott on Achim von Oetinger

Stuart Pigott: Achim von Oetinger is not a Berliner, at least not normally. After looking very carefully at this photograph of the winegrower from Erbach, Rheingau I took the other evening at Berlin wine merchant Planet Wine I’m not sure how to describe him, except to say that obviously, he isn’t smiling. Not being able to smile would certainly be some kind of problem, and might well indicate some deeper psychological issues, but blindly insisting on smiling come what may would surely be no less strange and inappropriate. Likewise, when it comes to wine what makes the taste fascinating isn’t the bright, ripe fruit flavors, rather the less obviously attractive characteristics that set up a tension with the immediately appealing elements. At least, this seems to me to be a good description of what his new wines are like. My gut feeling is that we’ll be hearing a lot more about Achim von Oetinger and his Rheingau Rieslings that are both attractive and fascinating.

US Exports

Until very recently, Achim’s wines were not available in the USA. This has changed. Arrowine, a leading wine store in the Washington DC area, is importing them as is Sacred Thirst Selections in California.

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller at Arrowine in Arlington, Virginia, with the Wines of Achim von Oetinger, Weingut von Oetinger

Arrowine on Weingut von Oetinger

Arrowine: Though misconceptions about Riesling abound, it remains a noble and extremely high quality white wine grape that makes some of the world greatest, highest rated, most collected, most cherished, most complex, most expensive and most age worthy white wines. Styles range from bone-dry to nectar-sweet. Please come to Arrowine this weekend to experience a taste of an exceptionally good, very dry Riesling from terrific old vines, the 2013 Von Oetinger "Alte Reben" Riesling Trocken from Rheingau, Germany.
This excellent 2013 dry Riesling comes from the terrific von Oetinger estate in the Rheingau's fabulous Erbach region. It is 100% Riesling from a small estate-owned hillside vineyard of very low yielding old vines. It shows the remarkably vivid and focused flavors, concentration, complexity and length that define high-quality Rieslings. It will age beautifully for at least 5-7 more years.

Pictures: Back at Weingut von Oetinger

The exemplary von Oetinger estate is a prestigious 3rd generation estate founded by a family that's been growing wine grapes around Erbach since 1828. In recent years the estate's quality has skyrocketed under Achim Von Oetinger (the 3rd generation of the family wine business). This jump in quality was noted by the important Gault Millau wine publication which recently wrote: "This has been a recent climber, and the shape of the curve continues further upward as the wines show ever higher quality and individuality." This estate was also named the "Discovery of the Year" by FAZ Magazine.

This beautiful white wine is very dry ("trocken") and comes from a distinguished vineyard in the great Hohenrain vineyard area, with vines over 50 years old ("Alte Reben" means "Old Vines"). This vineyard is near the village of Erbach, a renowned wine village in Germany's famed Rheingau region. According to Achim von Oetinger, this old vine dry Riesling is "his answer to Spätlese."

The von Oetinger estate is a top producer of the region that has been accepted as a member of the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates, a group of about 200 estates that includes most (but not all) of Germany's greatest wine producers as members. This association of top growers strictly monitors quality and voluntarily imposes stricter standards on members than under the (already very strict) German wine laws. Their membership in this important group is indicated by the letters "VDP" on the capsule.

Pictures: Tasting with Achim von Oetinger

Sacred Thirst Selections on Weingut Achim von Oetinger

Sacred Thirst Selections: Achim von Oetinger’s family has been growing grapes around Erbach in the Rheingau since 1828. The estate was divided between brothers Robert and Eberhard in 1958 and has since been reunited and Achim, Robert’s grandson, took over winemaking. Quality has been on the rise consistently with Achim and his wife Julia steering the ship as the winery is one of the rising stars in the Rheingau, and a member of the prestigious VDP which holds their members to strict quality standards. The estate holds 11 hectares of vines including the world famous Erbacher Marcobrunn site.

The domaine is focused on Riesling, with the noble variety comprising 90% of the vineyards and production. The remaining varieties include Spatburgunder, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder. The vineyards are all picked by hand and all styles of wine are produced from sparkling, dry and sweet. Respecting the land by using natural fertilization and allowing suitable plants to grow between the vines are practiced at von Oetinger. White wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks while the Spatburgunder is raised in traditional oak barrels. All of the wines show off Achim’s winemaking skill with the attention to detail in every wine. Powerful, focused, and cut like a diamond are all superlatives that have been used to categorize the qualities of the current releases.

The Wines Achim Poured for us


2014 Weingut von Oetinger, Pinot Blanc de Noir, VDP Gutswein trocken (Light, fine, floral. In general, all of Achim's wines have a floral note).

2014 Weingut von Oetinger, JOTT, VDP Gutswein trocken, aus 55 Jahre alten Rebstöcken. (Müller-Thurgau).


2014 Weingut von Oetinger, Riesling “Lösslehm”, VDP Gutswein trocken. (Achim: This wine shows very well my idea of Riesling. Rounder, more charming than the wines before).

2014 Weingut von Oetinger, Riesling “Mineral”, VDP Gutswein trocken. (very mineral, very pure, minimalistic).


2013 Weingut von Oetinger, Riesling GG trocken, Hohenrain. (this wine has a lot of substance. Is very dry. Achim was one of the first to make very dry GGs in the Rheingau).


Bye-bye

Thanks Achim for a great event and hope to see you soon in Washington DC.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Visit and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger

Lunch and Tour: Eberbach Abbey

Tasting at Weingut Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Bernd and Ralph Schönleber

Vineyard tour, Cellar tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh

Cruise on the Rhine River from Lorch to Boppard

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Frau Prüm

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps
 

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

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Picture: In Meissen, Saxony, with Winemaker/ Owner Georg Prinz zur Lippe, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe

The Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History took place from May 12 to May 20, 2016. This posting provides a summary of the tour; further postings will cover individual events.

We explored Germany’s wine regions Saale-Unstrut, Sachsen, Franken and Württemberg and Germany’s intellectual and cultural cradle in “Mitteldeutschland”. We spent 9 days touring 4 wine regions, indulging in first-class wines, art, culture, lots and lots of fascinating history, and attended performances at world-renowned concert and opera houses (Gewandhaus Orchester Leipzig and Semperoper Dresden).

Annette Schiller in her announcement: “This tour allows wine lovers and aficionados of the arts to experience what the statement “wine is a form of art” entails. We will live the profound relationship between wine, music, dance, and visual arts by visiting Germany’s beautiful, lesser known wine regions, and the region which is the cradle of German culture, and intellectual thinking. We meet winemakers who embody the "wine and art" approach right at their wineries, and we will attend four world-class concert-opera-, and ballet performances in East-and Middle Germany. This tour will tickle all your senses and emotions.”

And indeed: this tour was a feast for all of our senses. My fellow travelers will certainly second my statement. All the wines we tasted were gorgeous, in particular spectacular Pinot-Blancs in Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut; the hospitality of the winemakers / owners was heartwarming, the art, and the cultural heritage sights we saw were absolutely amazing, our intellectual capacity was teased to grasp the complexity of European and German history through the personal background family stories some of the wine estate owners shared with us, the concerts, opera, and ballet performances all were breathtakingly beautiful and very emotional.

4 German Wine Regions

We visited a total of 19 wineries in 4 different wine regions:

Saale-Unstrut, the northernmost German wine region and former GDR territory. It is situated on the hillsides lining the Saale and Unstrut rivers and produces racy white wines from many white grape varieties; (see also: Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany)

Sachsen, also located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life; (see also:
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany)

Franken with its Bavarian charm and gorgeous, crisp, crystal clear wines from their signature grape Silvaner;

Württemberg, Germany’s premier red wine region with hearty, bold wines made from grapes like Lemberger (Blaufränkisch in Austria), and Trollinger. This is the region where wine is ingrained in daily life like nowhere else. The Württemberg region has the highest per capita consumption of wine in Germany.

Germany with its roughly 250,000 acres under vine belongs today to one of the smaller wine producing countries in the world. However, viticulture in Germany has a long tradition, going back to Roman times 2,000 years ago. In the 15th century, the area under vine was four times larger than it is today. Wars, subsequent loss of territory, diseases, overproduction, and competition from beer brewing resulted in land turned over to other agricultural uses. In the 19th century, concentration on terroir and technological progress fostered a tremendous improvement of quality and the prestige of German wines, in particular from the Mosel, Rheingau, and Pfalz regions, resulting in prices above those for first growth Bordeaux wines. Today, all thirteen wine regions in Germany produce outstanding wines. However, the two regions in the former GDR had a lot of catching up to do. During the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. The winemaking process was deprived of modern farming and cellar techniques. The majority of wine produced was for the consumption of the communist party members. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance. Some of Germany’s finest Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris today come from the Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen regions.

Germany-East 2016 by ombiasy WineTours


DAY 01: Thursday, May 12

09:30 am Departure from Frankfurt to the Saale Unstrut wine regio.

The Saale-Unstrut wine region sits on 51st latitude and is Germany’s northernmost wine region, located in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, an area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). This is a historic wine producing region. Cistercian monks came from Burgundy and planted the first vines more than 1000 years ago. The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.


01:00 pm Lunch at restaurant Altes Brauhaus in Weissenfels.

02.15 pm Visit of the Schlossmuseum Weissenfels.

Weissenfels is a beautiful barock town. During GDR times it was famous for its shoe production.

04:00 pm Tasting at winery Lützkendorf in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut.

Owner/winemaker Uwe Lützkendorf was our host.

The winery Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities nationalized the property and integrated the estate into the government run Agricultural Cooperative. In 1991, after the reunification of the two German States the vineyards were returned to the family. Uwe Lützkendorf reestablished the winery, revamped the vineyards, and built new production facilities in Bad Kösen. The stony soils and the climate of this northern wine region decisively influences the character of the wines. Uwe Lützkendorf’s philosophy of wine making is as little intervention as possible to showcase the character of the terroir.

In 1996 the winery Lützkendorf was the first estate in the Saale-Unstrut region to become member of the prestigious VDP, the Association of Germany’s Premium Winemakers. To listen to him, and also to his fellow winemakers in this former GDR area, recounting their stories of reviving an economic and agriculture waste land after German reunification, is living history and worthy of a spy thriller.







07:00 pm At Hotel Zur Alten Schmiede in Naumburg.

Hotel Zur Alten Schmiede in Naumburg is a 3 star, elegant hotel in the center of historic Naumburg in walking distance to the famous cathedral. In the evening we explored the quaint historic town of Naumburg. We stopped by the house of the Nietzsche family, where the philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche spent his childhood.



DAY 02: Friday, May 13

09:00 am Visit of the Naumburg Cathedral.

This impressive late Romanesque and Gothic Cathedral is one of the most important cultural monuments of the High Middle Age period in all of Europe. The ensemble of Romanesque and Gothic artwork in the cathedral is unique and gives the visitor an understanding of middle age liturgy found nowhere else. World-renowned are the “Naumburger Meister”, the stonemasons that sculptured beautiful figures such as the donor portrait of Uta von Naumburg.



10:30 am Guided tour of the Hildebrandt organ in the St. Wenzels church in Naumburg.

Florian Zschucke, the organist, was our host. He explained the organ to us and gave a short organ concert.

The 1746 Hildebrandt Organ in St. Wenzel’s Church in Naumburg, is the best example of a “true Bach organ” and belongs to the most significant creations of late baroque organ building. The organ of 52 stops was built by Zacharias Hildebrandt under the influence of Johann Sebastian Bach. Bach made sure that this organ corresponds to his idea of an excellent large organ. He examined the organ, certified that Hildebrandt’s work was good, and played the finish organ. In 1748 Bach’s son in law became the organist at the St. Wenzel’s church.





11:45 am Visit, tasting, and lunch at winery Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut.

Matthias Hey was our host.

This is an up and coming winery recognized for its stellar Rieslings and white wine cuvées. It all started in 2001, well after German reunification when Sigrun and Reinhard Hey bought a once exquisite vineyard in the steep slope site “Naumburger Steinmeister” including the farmhouse at the foot of the vineyard. With dedication the totally overgrown vineyard was reclaimed by removing blackberry bushes that had almost suffocated 80 year old vines, rebuilding the terraces, and planting new vines. Today the Hey winery possesses 13 acres of top vineyards. Son Matthias, who graduated from the enological university in Geisenheim in 2008 is now at the helm and puts the emphasis on top quality and the uniqueness of the region. He is also member of the “Breitengrad 51”, an association of young winemakers of the Saale-Unstrut region. Their aim is to produce Saale-Unstrut Rieslings of world-class quality and to put the region on the map as top wine producing cultural heritage destination.










02:30 pm Tasting at winery Pawis in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz, Saale-Unstrut

Markus Pawis was our host. Bernhard Pawis and his wife Kerstin greeted us.

Weingut Pawis – owned and run by Bernhard Pawis - is located in the historic Zscheiplitz Estate, established in the 12th century as a convent, close to Freyburg. It is a gorgeous set-up, but as Bernhard Pawis told us, under the communist regime that did not allow private entrepreneurship, the then nationalized estate was completely run down and renovation was a major undertaking. Bernhard Pawis is a trained winemaker, educated in the former German Democratic Republic in a VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) winery. Shortly after the Iron Curtain came down in 1989, Bernhard’s parents bought 0.5 hectares of vineyard land and founded a small winery. Following the death of his father in 1998, Bernhard took over the reins, undertook major investments, bought more land and the Zscheiplitz Estate, and paid detailed attention to quality. In 2001 he received the highest reward for his efforts when he was invited to join the VDP, Germany’s Association of Premium Winemakers with only about 200 members.






04:30 pm At Victor’s Residenz Hotel in Leipzig.

Victor’s Residenz Hotel in Leipzig is a 4 star modern hotel in a beautifully restored late 19th century building.

08:00 pm Gewandhaus Leipzig: Concert with the full Gewandhaus orchestra conducted by Sir John Eliot Gardiner: Johannes Brahms, Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Robert Schumann.



DAY 03: Saturday, May 14

10:15 am Visit of Torgau - established in 973 - the beautiful Renaissance town and so called “wet nurse” of reformation.

This town played a significant role in establishing the protestant movement in Germany. In 1544 Martin Luther inaugurated the Schlosskirche in Torgau as first protestant church. It was in the Nikolai Church in Torgau where for the first time baptizing was done using the German language; the town council of Torgau expelled begging monks, and one for the councilors was responsible for freeing nine nuns at Nimbschen. Among them was Katharina von Bora, who later became Luther´s wife. In 1552 Katharina Luther tried to escape from the plague in Wittenberg, and there was a road accident in which she was injured. She died in Torgau and is buried in St. Mary´s Church. We visited the exhibit “Schätze einer Fürstenehe” in Schloss Hartenfels in Torgau, one of the most impressive castles of Germany.





We also visited the place where the World War II link up of the Allied and Soviet Forces occured. just outside of Thorgau.



12:30 pm Lunch at the Historisches Restaurant Vincenz Richter in Meissen

Weingut Vincenz Richter is one of the leading wine makers in Saxony. It is family-owned in the fifth generation by Thomas and Heike Herrlich. The family also owns and runs since 1873 the Vincenz Richter Restaurant, which is right in the middle of Meissen.

We were joined for part of our lunch by  Gottfried Herrlich, the senior boss, who talked to us about "Wine and Music".







03:00 pm At the Welcome Parkhotel in Meissen.

Welcome Parkhotel in Meissen is a beautiful 4 star hotel built in 1870 in the art nouveau style with a stunning view across the Elbe River to the Meissen Cathedral and the Albrechtsburg.

The mighty Albrechtsburg is a late Gothic castle built in the 15th century, and Germany’s oldest castle. It sits majestically on a rock above the Elbe river and presents together with the cathedral of Meissen a gorgeous panorama. Later the castle was superseded by the Dresden castle as the new seat of the Wettin dynasty which eventual produced the kings of Saxony and Poland. It was here where the King Augustus II the Strong of Saxony established the first European Porcelain manufacture in 1710 under the supervision of Johann Friedrich Böttger. The world-famous Meissen porcelain was produced at the Albrechtsburg until 1863, when the location became too small and the manufacture moved to its present location in Meissen.



04:30 pm Visit and tasting at winery Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen.

Georg Prinz zur Lippe was our host for the afternoon and the evening.

The Prinz zur Lippe family was first mentioned in the early 12th century and belonged to the reigning dynasties in Europe until 1918. For more than 300 years, the family branch of Georg Prinz zur Lippe, owner of winery Schloss Proschwitz, lived in Sachsen and produced wine. However there is a 45 year long interruption, when in 1945 the Russians occupied the eastern half of Germany, and disappropriated and expelled the family. Immediately after Germany’s reunification Georg Prinz zur Lippe started to buy back his family’s wine estate and ancestral residence, the Proschwitz castle. Since then he has restored the castle to its former glory, and invested heavily to build up the winery to become a state of the art wine producing estate. With 220 acres under vine the estate belongs to one of the larger wineries in Germany and is the largest privately owned one in Sachsen.











06:30 pm Dinner at Lippe’sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz.

We had dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at the Lippe’sche Gutshaus.

The regional, fresh cuisine with a sophisticated twist – a perfect pairing with the Schloss Proschwitz wines - received the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs award in 2011.






DAY 04: Sunday, May 15

09:45 am Tour of the Porzellanmanufaktur in Meissen.



Just across the street of the porzelain manufacure, you were reminded of the GDR days.


11:15 am Tasting at winery Tim Strasser/Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen.

Owner/Winemaker Tim Strasser was our host.

This is a very young winery, established in 2010 by Tim Strasser. Tim learned how to make wine at Schloss Wackerbarth, the Saxon government owned winery in Radebeul. He was then the youngest graduate ever. He further studied wine technology and enology and worked in Austria to gain experience before he took the big jump and established his own winery. He now has 26 acres of vineyard planted with Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder, Traminer, Scheurebe, and the Saxon speciality Goldriesling und Helios. The clay-loam-loess soil and the mild climate provides Tim with excellent conditions for healthy vines and fruit. He invested in modern cellar technology and makes sure that every step in the growing, harvesting, and winemaking process is done with utter care to guarantee top quality wines.








01:45 pm Lunch with wine pairing at winery Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen.

Restaurant Manager/ Sommelier Dirk Brauer was our host.

This winery is one of the youngest in all of Germany. It was officially inaugurated in 2005. In 2002 art historian Prof. Dr. Rainer Beck purchased the estate and step by step he built up the wine estate. He always had a passion for wine; after all he can trace back his roots on his father’s side to a family with viticulture tradition. There were three founding partners – hence the name: Drei Herren (Three Gentlemen). The second one was Claus Höhne, a winemaker from Radebeul who is still the vineyard manager and winemaker and a third gentleman who dropped out. In 2005 Antje Wiedemann, the saxon wine queen and later German wine princess, joined the team and the team decided to keep the name of the estate although now the ownership consists of two men and one women. Some justification came with her last name: it ends with “mann”, which means “gentleman”. Since the beginning great care was given to the quality of the wines and every year the portfolio gets high remarks in the German wine critic circles. Wine and art is closely intertwined at this estate. The beautiful historic rooms of the winery houses a gallery of modern art – art and wine are perfectly celebrated here.








04:15 pm At INNSIDE Hotel in Dresden.

Hotel INNSIDE in Dresden is an ultra-modern 4 star hotel with innovative design right in the historic city center with the Twist Sky Bar on the 6th floor that allows for great views of the dome of the recently rebuilt Frauenkirche.







07:00 pm Semperoper Dresden: “Mathis der Maler” by Paul Hindemith.





DAY 05: Monday, May 16

10:30 am Tasting at winery Klaus Zimmerling in Oberpoyritz, Sachsen.

In 1992, shortly after reunification, Klaus Zimmerling founded this winery. This is a very special place, hard to describe – you have to feel it - where art and wine is intimately intertwined. Two people, two passions, a heartwarming experience: Klaus Zimmerling, the grape whisperer, who sees his vineyard, the perfectly shaped, southern facing Rysselkuppe as a gift and natural wonder, which imposes on him the duty to go the extra mile to produce extraordinary wine; Malgorzata Chodakoska, his wife, who sculptures graceful feminine figures in her studio, which sits in the middle of the vines. Every year one of her sculptures will serve as model for the bottle label of that particular vintage.





12:30 pm Lunch at the winery Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen.

Lutz Müller was our host.

The winery is situated in the vineyards of the Albrechtsberg castle on the hillside with great views of the Elbe river, and Dresden. Castle Albrechtsberg was built for Prince Albrecht of Prussia (1809-1872). The winery Lutz Müller came into being through the passion of Lutz’s parents. They loved wine and as a hobby they started to make wine in Pillnitz. Lutz shared the passion and decided to make it a profession. He studied winemaking at the government owned winery in Radebeul and later gained a lot of experience while working at the Castell winery in the Franken wine region, at wineries in the Mosel and Baden region as well as in California. In 2000 he and his parents had the opportunity to renovate the dilapidated Kavaliershaus of Schloss Albrechtsburg and to build a winery. Today parcels in the top vineyard sites „Dresdner Elbhang“ und „Pillnitzer königliche Weinberge“ belong to Lutz Müller.







04:00 pm Visit of the Royal Palace and the museum complex.

Dresden has a long history as the capital of the kingdom of Saxony. For centuries the Saxon royals spared no money and effort to furnish the city with artistic, and cultural splendor. The baroque and rococo city center, and wealth of art, gave the city the nickname: “Florence of the north”. In modern times, until 1933, when the Nazi regime came into power, Dresden was Europe’s capital of modern art. The allied bombings during the night of February 13, 1945 at the end of World War II wiped out the city. During GDR times very few of the most important historical monuments were restored. After reunification restauration efforts intensified, and major reconstruction projects, including rebuilding the “Frauenkirche”, were completed. The restoration of the Royal Palace is about to be completed.

We visited the “Türckische Cammer” (Turkish Chamber). This is one of the oldest and most important collections of Ottoman art anywhere in the world outside Turkey. The largest object in the Türckische Cammer, which opened in 2010, is an Ottoman three-mast tent – a 20 m long, 8 m wide and 6 m high dream made of gold and silk. Only in Dresden is it possible for visitors to enter such a tent and examine the supreme craftsmanship of Ottoman textile artists at close quarters.

We also visited the “Historisches Grünes Gewölbe” (Historic Green Vault), to get a glimpse into the late baroque world of the Saxon royals. The Green Vault was reopened on the ground floor in 2006. From 1723 to 1730, August the Strong had a series of rooms constructed to represent his wealth and power as an absolute monarch; the full, incredible experience of this late baroque synthesis of the arts is once again available to visitors in the original rooms.

The day ended in a nice, cosy wine bar in the Dresden Neustadt.


DAY 06: Tuesday, May 17

9:00 am Drive to Franken

10:00 am Visit of the Deutsch-Deutsches Museum Mödlareuth, Töben.

We experienced recent German history. We saw here how the border between West Germany and the GDR affected people on both sides of the fence. This small town of a population of 50 souls was divided just like Berlin. The tiny river Tannbach became the official border when Germany was divided up into 4 sectors after WW II. Unfortunately the Tannbach river happens to flow just through the middle of town, so one side of the river belonged to the American sector, which later became together with the French and British sector the Bundesrepublik Deutschland, and the other side belonged to the Soviet sector, which eventually became the GDR. In 1952 the GDR started to construct a 3.60 meter high wall, and watch towers. Until 1989 the divided families could not even greet each other or wave.



01:00 pm Arrival in Bayreuth, lunch at the Wagner Museum Café.

01:30 pm Visit of the Wagner museum.

After many years of renovation “Wahnfried” the home of Richard and Cosima Wagner, is again open for visitors, and houses the Wagner museum. We will visit the museum and archives. I quote the former German secretary of State, Hans-Dietrich Genscher: “Richard Wagner’s Bayreuth home “Wahnfried” is an outstanding cultural place, but also a symbol of German history – in its contradictoriness and entanglements.”



04:30 pm Arrival in Volkach, Franken. At the Romatikhotel Zur Schwane.

This hotel has a more than 600 year history of catering to guests. It was in 1404 that the Schwan family founded this hotel across from the village church.


05:00 pm Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting at winery Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken.

General Manager/ Winemaker Christian Kallisch was our host. He took us on a tour to the vineyards, the new production facility, the old cellar at the hotel and the tasting area of the hotel. We stopped 3 times for tastings: At the new production facility, the cellar (from barrel) and in the tasting room. Finally, we had more Zur Schwane wines for dinner at the Zur Schwane Restaurant.

Shortly after the Schwan family established the hotel they started their own winery. In the 1930s the Pfaff family purchased the properties and today the winery and hotel/restaurant are owned and managed by Eva Pfaff-Düker and Ralph Düker.

For more than 2000 years grapes have thrived on the shell-limestone slope along the bend of the Main River and the Dükers honor the long tradition by respecting the soil and natural environment. They see every vineyard and each wine as individual and practice a supervised “hand off” approach to allow the wines to develop with as little interfering as possible. 50% of their vineyards is planted with Franken’s signature grape “Silvaner”.














08:00 pm Dinner at restaurant Zur Schwane.

This restaurant is renowned for its outstanding cuisine and its fabulous wine list showcasing the best of Franken.





DAY 07: Wednesday, May 18

10:00 am Vinyard tour, cellar tour and tasting at winery Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken.

Horst Sauer was our host.

Horst Sauer made his first wine in 1977, the birth year of his daughter. Since then he has become one of Germany’s truly exceptional winemakers. Today his daughter, who finished her viticultural studies at the Geisenheim Viticultural University, is the cellar master. Fantastic dry wines are produced at this estate mainly from Silvaner, but also from Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Besides dry wines Horst Sauer is known for lusciously sweet specialities. To get a glimpse into his philosophy of winemaking I will quote him here: “The start of a great wine lies in the winemaker’s imagination. I use to keep close watch on nature. Each year is different. The experiences we made in the past change our view and our range of options. You have to consider carefully when to influence, to control, to improve, and to enhance. And you have to find out at which point control becomes manipulation. Each wine has only one spring, one summer, one autumn, and one ripening season. Once you become aware of this fact, you know what it means to be patient. Only those who have a vision will find the way to their goal.”













12:30 pm At Hotel Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg.

Hotel Greifensteiner Hof in Würzburg is an old-world style 4 star hotel in the historic center of beautiful Würzburg.

01:00 pm Lunch at restaurant Fränkische Stuben in the Greifensteiner Hof.


03:00pm Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting at winery Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken.

Martin Johann Schmitt was our host.

The Schmitt family can trace back its viticulture roots to the year 1712. The name Schmitt’s Kinder (children) came into being in 1910 when a group of heirs -after the early death of their parents- decided to operate the estate together instead of dividing it. Today the 9th , Karl Martin and Renate Schmitt and the 10th generation, Martin Johann Schmitt, of the founding family manages the estate which has 35 acres of vineyard of which 30% is planted with Silvaner, the Franken signature grape. The Schmitts produce top quality, dry wines and their 2012 Grand Cru Randersacker Sonnenstuhl Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) just won 2. place at a Feinschmecker (the best German wine and gourmet magazine) competition. At this winery the happy relationship between wine and art comes alive. The painter Andi Schmitt has his studio in the historic baroque estate in the town center and his and some artist friend’s works can be seen in the tasting room at the new winery.












05:00 pm Departure and drive back to Würzburg.

In the evening we discovered beautiful Würzburg. We walked to the Alte Mainbrücke with stunning views of the Marienberg Fortress on the hill across the Main river.





DAY 08: Thursday, May 19

09:00 am Cellar tour and tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller (VDP) in Würzburg, Franken.

General Manager Marcel von den Benken was our host.

This is the oldest winery in all of Germany. Its beginnings can be traced back to an endowment by the bishop of Würzburg in 1128. Before secularization the winery was owned by the ruling Prince Bishop and named “Fürstbischöflicher Hofkeller”. After secularization during Napoleonic times Würzburg became part of the Kingdom of Bavaria and the winery’s new owner was the ruling Bavarian king. Hence the winery was renamed “Königlich Bayerischer Hofkeller”. When the monarchy was abolished in 1918 after WW I the winery became property of the newly created State of Bavaria and renamed “Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg”. This is a very unique winery- since its beginnings 900 years ago it has never been sold; it has always been owned by the current sovereign in uninterrupted succession. The winery is right next to the Würzburg Residence and the cellars are under the north and south wings of the Residence. The cellars are vast with a surface area of 4,500 square meters and a length of 900 meters. With 296 acres under vine it is Germany’s 3rd largest winery with holdings in the most renowned sites of Franken. The appeal of the wines lies in their fascinating diversity.










10:45 am Departure from Würzburg and drive to Württemberg.

12:15 pm Vineyard tour, cellar tour, lunch and tasting at winery Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg, Württemberg.

General Manager/ Winemaker Joachim Brand was our host.

As Germany’s the oldest family owned business, the Hohenlohe-Öhringen family can look back to the year 1253 as the founding year of their viticulture history. The 27th generation is now at the helm and today they manage 42 acres of the solely owned site Verrenberger Verrenberg. The vineyard is panted with the traditional Württemberg varietals Lemberger, and Riesling, and also with Spätburgunder, some Weissburgunder and Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Since 2008 the vineyards have been cultivated according to organic guidelines. The goal is to produce distinctive wines that not only expresses varietal character, but also that of their origin. Their 2013 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was awarded the Gold Medal at the 2015 Decanter World Wine Awards. This estate was the pioneer in creating cuvées in Württemberg. More than 20 years ago Siegfried Röll, their winemaker in those days, toured Bordeaux and on the long drive back home he began wondering why they did not produce a Bordeaux type blend at home. He blended the local variety Lemberger with traditional Bordeaux grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and voilà this cuvée came out beautifully. This was in 1986. They named the cuvée "Ex Flammis Orior" after the inscription on the family coat of arms. We had the pleasure drinking the fabulous 2008 "Ex Flammis Orior" during last year's wine tour when Burkhard Schork, chef of the wonderful gourmet restaurant 'Schiller's', spoiled us with this bottle during dinner.

After a glass of Sekt, we started with a short vineyard walk, followed by lunch.







We then toured the wine cellar and sat down for an extraordinary tasting.







03:15pm Tour and tasting at Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg.

Kyle Frank from the Dr. Frank Estate in the Finger Lakes Region is an intern at Staatsweingut Weinsberg and was our host.

The state winery Weinsberg is a department of the Government of Baden-Wuerttemberg. The winery is part of a state teaching, research, and experimental estate for pomology and viticulture. It was founded in 1868 as the "Royal School of Viticulture” under King Charles I of Württemberg and is Germany’s oldest viticultural school. Among the initiators was Immanuel August Ludwig Dornfeld, the grape “Dornfelder”, which was bred here in 1955 by August Herold is named after him. Today, between 30 to 50 students are at the school with the aim to become a Weinbautechniker (vocational winemaker training). The school also trains coopers. As for research, new recent grape varieties developed here include Acolon, Cabernet Dorio, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Mitos, Dornfelder, Kerner, and Silcher. Staatsweingut Weinsberg has 40 hectares of vines, some of which are planted in the estate’s solely owned Weinsberger Schemelsberg and Abstatter Burg Wildeck. Riesling, Lemberger and Pinots dominate. Our focus during this visit is on the cultivation of new varietals, which is a topic seldom addressed elsewhere.





05:30 am At Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder.

Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder is a historic, beautiful winery with guest rooms, where we spent the night.


05:45 am Cellar tour and tasting at winery Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg.

Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder was our host.

This winery can look back to more than 600 years of history. It came into being when Count Eberhard von Württemberg gave Knight Friedrich Sturmfeder a piece of land in the forest of Schozach in fief for his services to him. The estate in Schozach sits in the midst of an ideal wine-growing terrain, the excellent quality of which was discovered centuries ago. Current owner is Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder, a trained winemaker who took over in 1996, the 600th anniversary of the property. He says: „My philosophy is easily explained. The vineyard is the origin, in which the treasure is sought and unearthed with all efforts at the right harvesting time. Healthy, essence-rich grapes are vinified into varietal wines or presented in a composition of a cuvée.”












08:00 pm Dinner in a local restaurant with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder.



DAY 09: Friday, May 20

09.45 am After breakfast we drove back to Frankfurt. Before leaving we took a vineyard tour.




Postings: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut, with Uwe Lützkendorf

Vinyard Walk and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey

Tasting at Weingut Pawis in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz, Saale-Unstrut, with Marcus Pawis

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music: Lunch with Gottfried Herrlich at Restaurant Vincenz Richter in Meissen

Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Tasting at Weingut Tim Strasser/Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen, with Tim Strasser

Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Weingut Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen, with Lutz Müller

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken with Winemaker Christian Kallisch

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller in Würzburg, Franken, with General Manager Marcel von den Benken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Visit of Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg, with Kyle Frank from the Finger Lakes

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany

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Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller at Alte Mainbrücke, Würzburg

Würzburg

This city of 130,000, nestled among vineyards along the river banks, is arguably the finest of Germany's Baroque and Rococo towns. Its history dates from the 8th century, when Frankish dukes, converted to Christianity by Irish missionary monks, laid the foundations of massive Marienberg Fortress on the crest of the highest of Würzburg's many terraced and vine-covered hills. One of the oldest churches in the country, the Marienkirche, consecrated in 706, still stands in that castle's courtyard.

From the Middle Ages until 1802, when Napoleon reshaped the map of Europe, imposed secularization and ceded the city to the newly created Kingdom of Bavaria, Würzburg was a rich, influential and virtually independent prince-bishopric whose rulers enjoyed both ecclesiastical and worldly powers. Most important though, nearly all those prince-bishops were connoisseurs and patrons of the arts. Their sponsorship and commissions attracted great artists and architects, who made the city the major cultural center that it is today.
Thus it was Würzburg where the painter Matthias Grünewald was born and did some of his earliest work as an apprentice to local masters. In 1483, during the reign of Prince-Bishop Rudolf von Scherenberg, Tilman Riemenschneider, the greatest of the Renaissance woodcarvers and sculptors, settled and established his studio in Würzburg, ultimately becoming the city's burgomaster. His work is omnipresent in Würzburg churches and in those of nearby towns and villages.

Two other prince-bishops hired Balthasar Neumann, Germany's preeminent Baroque architect, to build the Residenz, their diocesal palace, and commissioned Venetian artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo to decorate it with Rococo ceiling and wall frescoes.

To be sure, a great deal of what you see in Würzburg today is not what you think it is or what it purports to be, for much of what looks old is relatively new. Most of the city's architectural heritage was destroyed in a single World War II air raid in March 1945. But visitors today will hardly notice, for many beautiful churches, graceful bridges, ornate patrician houses and splendid hospices were rebuilt.

3 Legendary Wineries with Wine Taverns

When you are in Würzburg, Franken, and want to go out for a bite and couple of glasses of wine in the evening, the obvious choice that immediately comes to mind are the 3 iconic wine producer Bürgerspital, Juliusspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller that are all located in the center of Würzburg and that all have wine taverns.

My first choice is the Bürgerspital. A tiny step below is the wine tavern of the Juliusspital, in terms of food and ambiance, which are more basic than at the Bürgerspital. The wines, all from the Juliusspital, are equally world class. The Staatlicher Hofkeller also has a tavern, which I cannot recommend however. The location is excellent as is the ambiance and the food. It is part of the residence but not in terms of spirit. There are no wines from the Staatlicher Hofkeller on the menu (but lots of beer).

Bürgerspital Tavern

The first vineyards of the Bürgerspital were planted in the 1300s and served to supply the Bürgerspital’s own needs. It is reported that in 1598, the residents of the old people's home were provided with a tankard - 1.22 litres - of wine. Today, the vineyard area of Weingut Bürgerspital totals 120 hectares, of which about 80 hectares are located in Würzburg.

The iconic Bürgerspital tavern -- with its 10 rustically furnished rooms and a retail store -- is in a wing of this institution. The food is regional and the wines are those of Weingut Bürgerspital. The last time I ate there I had steak tartare.

Pictures: Bürgerspital

Juliusspital Tavern

Weingut Juliusspital is Germany’s second largest winery with 177 hectares under vines. At the center of the Juliusspital Foundation are a hospital, an assisted living home for elderly people and a hospice. This has been so for more than 400 years. Today, the buildings of the Juliusspital Foundation comprise many modern buildings but also very impressive and well maintained historical buildings. As to the latter, the Fürstenbau, a palatial building, designed by the architect Antonio Petrini built in the Barock style with its historical cellar vaults, its garden pavilion and the fountain statues of Jacob van der Auvera, make the Juliusspital a unique monument of art and culture at the heart of the city of Würzburg. The historical cellars, which we had the opportunity to visit, with the old traditional wooden casks, are still in use for fermentation and aging.
The iconic Juliusspital tavern is part of the Juliusspital complex. It is large. The wines are those of Weingut Juliuspital. The last time I ate their I had “Nürnberger Bratwürste”.

See:
Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Pictures: Juliusspital and Juliusspital Tavern

Würzburg Residenz and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Würzburg's most dazzling piece of architecture, and the one for which it is on UNESCO's list, is the Residenz, the palace of the prince-bishops, one of the largest and most richly decorated chateaus in all Europe. Its sponsor was Johann Philip von Schönborn, who was elected prince-bishop in 1719. The Residenz’ mind-boggling centerpiece is the grand staircase, capped by Tiepolo's 7,000-square-foot ceiling fresco. The vaulted ceiling is more than 17 feet high and is entirely unsupported by pillars.The appeal of the wines lies in their fascinating diversity.

Pictures: Würzburg Residenz

Once you have traversed the rooms and parlors of the Residenz, be certain to visit the Staatliche Hofkellerei Würzburg. The extensive and labyrinthine wine cellars stretch out deep below the building.

The Staatliche Hofkeller Würzburg is one of Germany’s largest wine estates. Founded in 1128, it is also one of the oldest. Initially, it was owned by the Prince-Bishops of Würzburg. From 1814 onwards, after the Vienna Congress, the Kingdom of Bavaria was the owner under the name Königlich Bayerischer Hofkeller (royal Bavarian state cellar), with an interlude from 1806 to 1814, when it was owned by Grand Duke Ferdinand of Tuscany.

After the revolution of 1918, the Kingdom of Bavaria became part of the Weimar Republic as the State of Bavaria and the State of Bavaria took over the Staatliche Hofkellerei Würzburg as the successor of the Kingdom of Bavaria.

Today, the vineyard area totals 120 hectares. These holdings are spread over many communes.
The Staatlicher Hofkeller also has a tavern, which I cannot recommend however. The location is excellent as is the ambiance and the food. It is part of the residence but not in terms of spirit. There are no wines from the Staatlicher Hofkeller on the menu (but lots of beer).

Pictures: Staatlicher Hofkeller

Other Wine Taverns

Moving on to other wine taverns, my favorite is the Weinhaus Stachel. The food is excellent as is the selection of wines from the region. A step below is the popular Backöfele. The Würzburger Ratskeller is another option.

Weinhaus Stachel

Weinhaus Stachel is the oldest restaurant of Würzburg and it’s got a lovely romantic inner courtyard where you can dine on warm evenings. Today a nice restaurant, Weinhaus Stachel once was the conspirative venue of the knights in the German Peasants’ War in the early 16th century. The mace hanging outside the door is referring to this history of the tavern. Gressengasse 1

Pictures: Weinhaus Stachel

Backöfele

A step below in terms of quality is the very popular Backöfele. It is large and always packed. The food is good as is the wine. The crowd there is a bit younger than at Weinhaus Stachel. Ursulinergasse 2

Pictures: Backöfele

Würzburger Ratskeller

The Würzburger Ratskeller is located in the Würzburg city hall. It has seventeen different rooms - one is in the old house chapel and another was once the city dungeon. There is also a beautiful inner courtyard where you can dine next to the fountain. Langgasse 1

Just for a Glass of Wine: Alte Mainbrücke

Finally, just for a glass of wine, go to the Alte Mainbrücke, a stunning 500-year-old stone bridge. You will find—especially on a sunny day—hundreds of wine drinkers. The bridge crosses the River Main and motor traffic is banned. It has become quite common for the Würzburg citizens, as well as visitors, to stroll across bridge, relax against one of its balustrades, sip a glass of wine and enjoy the amazing view.

On the left bank, you will see the imposing fortress—Festung Marienberg—standing guard over the city from and the Käppele, a beautiful baroque chapel. Along the steep banks of the Main, you can make out the Würzburger Stein. Where do you get your wine? Weinbistro Mainwein on the Alte Mainbrücke is an outlet of the GWF co-operative (Winzergemeinschaft Franken). The GWF has 2270 members. The vineyard area totals 1321 hectares. You can purchase wine by the bottle or by the glass. Restaurant Alte Mainmühle is another option.

Pictures: At Alte Mainbrücke, Würzburg

Fine Dining and World Class Wines at Reisers am Stein

Moving up, the top place for premium wine and food is Reisers am Stein, which is part of Weingut am Stein/ Ludwig Knoll, right in the middle of the Würzburger Stein, the biggest single vineyard in Franconia, overlooking the city. Along with the Staatliche Hofkeller, the Bürgerspital and the Juliusspital, Weingut am Stein Ludwig Knoll owns parcels of the Würzburger Stein. You need a car to go there, but you will be rewarded with Michelin-starred cuisine and world class wines, from Weingut am Stein/ Ludwig Knoll and elsewhere. Mittlerer Steinbergweg 5

See:
Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: Reisers am Stein, Würzburg

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar



Postings: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut, with Uwe Lützkendorf

Vinyard Walk and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey

Tasting at Weingut Pawis in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz, Saale-Unstrut, with Marcus Pawis

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music: Lunch with Gottfried Herrlich at Restaurant Vincenz Richter in Meissen

Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Tasting at Weingut Tim Strasser/Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen, with Tim Strasser

Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Weingut Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen, with Lutz Müller

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken with Winemaker Christian Kallisch

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller in Würzburg, Franken, with General Manager Marcel von den Benken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Visit of Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg, with Kyle Frank from the Finger Lakes

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder
 

Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

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Picture: Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges­ au­ Mont­ d’Or near Lyon

The Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours took place from May 26 to June 05, 2016.

What comes to your mind, when you hear ‘Burgundy’? First class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; ancient history; world-renowned vineyards; Cistercian monks; 1000 year old abbeys; quaint small wine villages; the Hospice de Beaune; good cuisine. We explored in detail these different aspects during our tour through Burgundy and the Champagne region. We started in vibrant, cool, sophisticated Lyon, the capital of Haut Cuisine, travelled through Beaujolais, and worked our way up to the north, visiting the Beaujolais, the Mâconnais, the Côte Chalonnaise, traveling through the most famous white wine vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, to the world famous red wine vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, to Chablis and finally crossing into the Champagne region, and ending in Reims with its famous Gothic Cathedral.

We visited a total of 14 Domaines in Beaujolais, Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Chablis.

We visited 3 very different Champagne Houses, a grower Champagne House in the Côte des Bar, the southernmost Champagne region, a bigger family run Champagne House in the Champagne capital Epernay, and an internationally well-known Champagne House in Reims.

We got intimate insights into the world of Burgundy and Champagne by visiting many top rated producers, but also excellent lesser known and unknown producers.

We took a guided tour through beautiful Lyon. We visited the Fontenay Abbey to explore the historical origins of the famous Burgundy wines. We had a guided tour through the famous Hospice de Beaune, a very important place for setting the prices for a particular vintage.

We experienced French hospitality and culinary art at the highest level. We had a luncheon at the iconic Paul Bocuse restaurant at the doorsteps of Lyon and had meals at Michelin-star equal restaurant, and at village restaurants serving typical Burgundian dishes.

Burgundy is one of the world’s best-known wine areas, but perhaps one of the least understood. Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual châteaux. In Burgundy a specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the owner or producer.

Secularization during Napoleonic times and the Napoleonic inheritance law led to a subdivision of even the most precious vineyards so that some growers hold only a row or two of vines. Clos de Vougeot for example is a vineyard of 130 acres today parceled into plots owned by 80 different owners. This led to the emergence of négociants who aggregate the produce of many growers to make a single wine.

Burgundy with its 80,000 acres under vine represents just 3% of the French vineyard surface area. The core of the Burgundy region is divided into five appelations from north to south: Chablis, a predominantly white wine region; Côte de Nuits, predominantly red with the world-famous Grands Crus such as La Tache, Romanée Conti, Clos de Vougeot, etc; Côte de Beaune, red and white, including the world’s most expensive white wine, the Grand Cru Montrachet as well as the famous Grand Cru Charlemagne. Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune together form the so called ‘Côte d’Or’, where the Grand Crus are located. Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais follow further south and transition into the Beaujolais. According to the French land registry Beaujolais belongs to the Burgundy region. When we talk about Burgundy here I am referring to the 5 core regions. Nearly all white Burgundy is Chardonnay with only 6% Aligoté planted. Red Burgundy is almost 100% Pinot Noir, with a small amount of Gamay. There also is 3% ‘Passetoutgrain’, which is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. The Cistercian monks were instrumental in introducing winemaking in Burgundy and spreading the art of winemaking to other parts in Europe.

There are so many great producers with wonderful people at the helm that it is very difficult to choose which one to visit. We selected top estates of different price points, from sky-high 100 Parker point wines to budget friendly, excellent, unknown wines exported to the US for the first time.

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Day 0: WEDNESDAY, May 25

Most of the participants arrived a day or two days before the start of the tour.

07.00 pm Dinner at a traditional Bouchon

Those who were already in Lyon on the evening before the tour had dinner at a Bouchon.

A Bouchon serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. Originally, the husband would watch over the dining room and pour the wine (Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône), while the wife cooked every day, family-style cuisine, centered on the offal and cooked meats which Lyon is famous for. There are approximately twenty officially certified traditional Bouchons. Because of difficulties to make a reservation for a group of 12 on short notice, we split up into two groups. 6 of us went to Daniel et Denise and the rest (including Annette Schiller and myself) to Chez Paul.










Day 1: THURSDAY, May 26

02.00 pm Welcome coffee at Grand Hotel des Terreaux in Lyon.

Grand Hotel des Terreaux in Lyon is a 4 star beautiful hotel in the heart of Old Lyon, the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It combines the atmosphere of an old­fashioned 19th century town house with a modern, innovative décor. It also has a beautiful indoor pool and hot tub.




03:00 Introduction to the Burgundy wine region with Georges Dos Santos.

We took a short walk across the bridge of the Sâone River to Antic Wine in the Renaissance part of old Lyon. Owner and famous Sommelier Georges Dos Santos introduced us to the Bourgogne region. We tasted 6 wines.







05:00 pm Early dinner at the Grand Café des Négociants



08.00 pm Opéra de Lyon

Iolanta (Tschaikovsksi) and Persephone (Stravinski)






11:00 pm After Opera drink

Some of us finished the day with a glass of wine at a little neighborhood bar just next to the Hotel.


DAY 2: FRIDAY, May 27

09.45 am Guided sightseeing tour of Lyon.

Lyon is France’s second largest city with around two million people, and a chic, sharp, savvy, historic, bustling, city. It was founded by the Romans in 34 BC, and has been a commercial, industrial, and banking powerhouse for the last five hundred years. In the 15th century it became Europe’s publishing center, by the mid 18 hundreds it had become Europe’s silk­weaving center, at the dawn of the 20th century it became France’s cineastic center, and today it is a sophisticated city with a dynamic cultural life, a thriving university scene, and France’s gourmet capital. The city center lies on the peninsular at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône rivers, the oldest Renaissance part of Lyon is sandwiched between the Saône River and the hillside to the west. Very special are the “Bouchon” simple, very typical Lyonnais restaurants and the “Traboules” interior passageways between houses being established during the “silk” period of Lyon.









12.30 pm Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s restaurant in Collonges­ au­ Mont­ d’Or.

Madame Bocuse welcomed us.

This restaurant is one of the holy grail of classical cooking. Since 1965 it defends its 3 Michelin stars. Paul Bocuse was a chef who pushed boundaries and is still a benchmark for technical perfection in the kitchen.
















02.45 pm Departure and drive to the Beaujolais and Macon Regions.


04.00 pm Visit and tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­ Fuissé, Mâconnais.

Audrey Braccini, Winemaker and General Manager of Domaine Ferret, our host.

Situated in the heart of Fuissé, Domaine Ferret has long been a producer of top Pouilly­Fuissé wines. The estate was managed by the Ferret family from its founding in 1840 until it was purchased by Louis Jadot in 2008. Under the formidable leadership of Jeanne Ferret, who ran the house with a rod of iron for half a century, Domaine Ferret became a major force in the region. Daughter Colette joined her in 1992. Jeanne died in 1993, Colette in 2007, leaving no heirs, and after 150 years in the Ferret family the domaine was put up for sale. Domaine Ferret has played a key role in defining the quality of the region. It was the first one in Pouilly­Fuissé to begin bottling at the estate, shortly after World War II. Its long­standing focus on vinifying each parcel of vines separately has allowed for the identification of the top terroirs. Domaine Ferret’s estate vineyards are comprised of 18 hectares throughout the Pouilly­Fuissé appellation; 14 of these are located in the amphitheater of hills surrounding the town of Fuissé and 4 are near the Roche de Vergisson, in the north of the appellation. The spectrum of rocks present in Fuissé is the most diverse within the Mâconnais, and the Ferret vineyards, which are spread across the appellation's entire range of soil types, is one of its best ambassadors.














06.30 pm At Hostellerie Château de la Barge in Crêche­ sur­ Saône.

Hostellerie Château de la Barge in Crêche­ sur­ Saône is a 4 star historic hotel situated in a romantic park with an outdoor pool, and a very good beautiful restaurant.



DAY 3: SATURDAY, May 28

09.30 am Visit and tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­-Morgon, Beaujolais.

Madame Descombes was our host.

Since 1988 Georges Descombes makes his own wine in the tiny village of Vermont, in the Morgon appellation. He is part of what could be considered Beaujolais' second­wave of natural winemakers, and he is certified “organic” by ECOCERT. His production is two­tiered, the domaine wines deriving from his own 15.5 ha of vines in the five AOCs: Morgon, Brouilly, Regnié, Chiroubles, and Beaujolais Villages, and the négoçiant wines, a separate range he makes from purchased fruit. Descombes is also the patriarch of what has in recent years become a whole winemaking clan in the hamlet of Vermont. The Descombes complex houses Damien Coquelet, Georges' step­son who produces excellent Chiroubles and Morgon, and Kevin Descombes, Georges' son who began vinifying his own Morgon and Beaujolais just a couple years ago.












12:30 pm Lunch at restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey.

The restaurant in this former coach stop offers classical Burgundian cuisine and wines from the region at its best. Gonnot Didier is the Chef and Owner.





02.45 pm Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise.

Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot was our host.

This family domaine of 11.5 hectares was founded by Emile Juillot in the early 1900s, and was long known under the name Domaine Emile Juillot. Current owners are Nathalie Theulot, granddaughter of Emile and her husband Jean­Claude Theulot. Winewise very fittingly described the estate: “Old fashioned” burgundy producer, in the best sense of the words. Serious, age­worthy wines which show off both the unique aromatic joys of Pinot Noir and the particular character of the six premier cru sites of Mercurey that they cultivate. These are wines of the utmost integrity, not prettified in any way, because they do not need to be. Jean­Claude Theulot, Emile Juillot’s grand son­in­law, has steadily raised the renown of this estate to the top echelon of Mercurey. Fittingly, the name has been changed from “Emile Juillot” to “Theulot­Juillot” in recognition of the transformation that he has wrought.” Nathalie told us that since 2004 the state has adopted sustainable viticulture practices with the aim to eventually convert to biodynamics.











04.45 pm Guided tour of the Château de Rully and tasting of Domaine Rully Wines.

Count Raoul de Ternay was our host.

Visible from far away among the vineyards, the Château de Rully is a medieval fortress built in the 12th century. Visiting the castle took us on a journey through French history from the middle ages to today. Since its origin, the castle has been kept in the same family. The current owner Count Raoul de Ternay guided us through his home, showing the history of his ancestors. By being a private property (and not a museum) every single visit is a unique and authentic experience. The tour ended with a tasting of the Château’s wines in the medieval kitchen.











07.00 pm Introduction to the historic Cavaillé­ Coll­ Organ in the Saint Nicolas Church of Meursault by the president of the organ society of Meursault followed by a short concert.





07.45 pm At Hotel Les Charmes in Meursault, Côte de Beaune.

Hotel Les Charmes is a 3+star very charming hotel in a historic 18th century wine domaine with a pool and a beautiful garden right in the center of Meursault.



In the evening we enjoyed the quaint Burgundian wine village Meursault.



Day 4: SUNDAY, May 29

We spent the Sunday in Meursault just like the French would spend their Sundays. In Europe ­ and that includes France – on Sundays the stores are closed and this is the day to decompress, to relax, to spend time with family or friends, to go for long walks, to have a long luncheon, to enjoy doing things that the working days do not allow for.

11.00 am Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune.

Michel Prunier and his wife were our hosts.

The tiny village of Auxey ­Duresses is just 2 km from Meursault and one of the lesser communes which are also located in this section of the Côte de Beaune, virtually unknown to the casual Burgundy drinker. These wines provide a very good price­quality ratio. Auxey­ Duresses sits at the juncture of the red wine terroirs of Volnay and Pommard and the white wine terroir of Meursault. The Prunier family has been making wine in Auxey­ Duresses for over four generations. The Domaine Michel Prunier however was founded by him and his wife Michèle with 5 acres of vineyards in 1968. Daughter Estelle studied viticulture and after graduating in 2002 she worked in Bordeaux and Australia to gain experience. In 2014 she came home to work with her parents. Today the domaine has 30 acres under vine and they apply organic viticulture practices. Mirroring the soil situation in the valley they produce 30 percent white and 70 percent red wine. The flagship of the domaine is the Auxey ­Duresses "Clos du Val”, a 1ière Cru. “We are very proud of this vineyard because it is a family vineyard” says Estelle Prunier.










12.15 pm Wine pairing lunch at restaurant La Cremaillere.

The restaurant is right across the street from the domaine and used to belong to the Prunier family. We had a typical Burgundian meal matched with the wines from Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille.








04.00 pm Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth.

Karoline has a Diploma in European Ethnology and History from the University of Würzburg and lives in Meursault with her husband who is from Meursault. She knows the town and landscape like the back of her hands. She did intensive research on the history of winemaking in Meursault and published a book (Allons en vendage) on wine making in Meursault during the 1930s. She was a perfect guide to give us intimate insights into a Burgundian wine village.








8:00 pm Dinner at Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet

Ed.Em is among the top restaurants in the Bourgogne, with 1 star Michelin.

Michelin: The name is a contraction of Édouard and Émilie, who have taken over the premises of the former restaurant, Chassagne. He is a young chef with an impeccable CV (Lameloise, Marcon) who combines personality and subtlety in his tasty set menus where delicacy is never missing. She is a pastry chef and guarantees to round your meal off with a flourish. Hurry!








DAY 5: MONDAY, May 30

10.00 am Guided walk into the Puligny-Montrachet vineyards and cellar tour of Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune.

Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes were our hosts.

The Leflaive family is a long­standing Burgundian “wine” family who always could call some of the best vineyards in Burgundy their own. But it was Joseph Leflaive, grandfather of Olivier, Patrick and cousin Anne­Claude (owner of Domaine Leflaive, who died very suddenly last spring) who brought the family business to a different level when he founded Domaine Leflaive.







In 1984 Oliver and Patrick left Domaine Leflaive and founded their own Maison Leflaive, a top négociant house. Maison Olivier Leflaive is continuously expanding and acquired several vineyards – among them Chevalier­Montrachet Grand Cru and Bâtard­Montrachet Grand Cru ­ that allows him to develop the “Domaine” and to build up his range of Domaine wines alongside the négoce business.





Sommelier Charles Devarennes took us into the Puligny-Montrachet vineyards and talked extensively about the terroir, the vines and the vineyard work for us to understand what is at the source of one of the worlds most beautiful white wine. I quote Olivier Leflaive “Our daily mission is to produce top quality grapes. This involves a sustainable approach to working the vines, and also supporting our partner winegrowers in cultivating their plots using an organic or biodynamic approach. We have not any organic certification as we don’t hesitate to use chemical treatment if it’s really necessary. The harvest is entirely manual and the grapes are picked with the utmost respect for the plant. Harvesting by machine is to be avoided at all costs as it damages the vines and can never match the skill and judgment of a human being.”









12.30 pm Wine pairing lunch at restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-­Montrachet










03.30 pm Tasting at Caveau Les Grands Crus in Chassagne-­Montrachet, Côte de Beaune.

This tasting with the son-in-law of  A.F. Gros (Domaine A.F. Gros) XXX, who is a caviste, let us explore wines from the lesser known villages just behind the hills where the white Grand Cru sites are.




06.00 pm At Hotel Henry II in Beaune.

Hotel Henry II in Beaune is a 4 star hotel at the northern city gate of Beaune located within a 5 minute walk from the town center. Parts of the hotel buildings are in a historic monument with a second modern part added later.


The rest of the evening was free to discover Beaune. I used the opportunity to update my wine bar guide of Beaune and visited a number of wine bars.

At Au But du Monde we run into Lanny Lancaster, Owner of C'est Vin in Alexandria, Virginia.

At Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem,Owner Alex Meuriot introduced us to Belgian importer Rachid Agag from Les Vents d'Anges and Vincent Boyer of Domaine Boyer-Martenot in Meursault.









DAY 6: TUESDAY, May 31

We had a leisurely day today: no driving, we remained in Beaune, the Burgundy wine capital. While strolling through town we get a good feel for this beautiful, historic place, still today entirely surrounded by the medieval city wall.

11.00 am Guided tour of the Hospice de Beaune.

The Hospice de Beaune was founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy, as a hospital for the poor and needy. It is still a hospital but services for patients are now provided in different buildings. The original hospital building, the Hôtel­Dieu, is one of the finest examples of French fifteenth­century architecture. The original building was used until 1971 as the hospital of Beaune and home for the elderly. Today the entire building has been converted to a museum. From the very beginning the Hospices benefitted from donations of land, money and vineyards from former patients and wealthy benefactors. The Hospices are now the owners of 135 acres of vineyards, including some of the most sought­after parcels in Burgundy. Every year on the third Sunday in November a charity wine auction (only barrels of the just harvested vintage) is organized at the Hospice which attracts bidders and wine aficionados from around the globe, and pretty much sets the price for that vintage of Burgundy wines.







12.30 pm Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune.

This is a typical brasserie and packed every day since it is a favorite lunch spot among the locals.









02.30 pm Tour of the ancient cellars and tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune.

Joseph Drouhin was only 22 when he left his native Chablis to move to Beaune to establish his wine merchant business “Maison Joseph Drouhin” in 1880. His son started to build up a ‘Domaine’ and purchased vineyards in outstanding appelations. Today the Domaine Joseph Drouhin is with 182 acres one of the largest wine producing estates in the region. It owns vineyards in all of Burgundy: Chablis (38 hectares ­ 95 acres), Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, (32 hectares ­ 80 acres), Côte Chalonnaise (3 hectares ­ 7.5 acres). It is comprised of a majority of Premier and Grand Crus, planted with the two Burgundian grape varietals, pinot noir and chardonnay. It is still also one of the major négociants in Burgundy producing wines made from purchased grapes grown in different parts of Burgundy. In 1988 they invested in Oregon and established the winery Joseph Drouhin in the Willamette Valley. Today both the estates in Burgundy as well as the one in Oregon are owned and operated by the great grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin. The most ancient vaulted cellars of Beaune belong to Drouhin.

We visited the historic cellars of about 2.5 acres under the center of Beaune. These cellars once belonged to the Dukes of Burgundy and later to the Kings of France. We walked on history much older than the Kingdom of France since already the Romans built wine cellars in Beaune and we discovered bricks, paths and walls nearly 2000 years old.









04.30 pm Visit and tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny­ lès­ Beaune.

Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel was our host.

This domaine is owned by native North Carolina and longtime resident of Washington DC Blair Pethel. For 25 years he worked in Washington DC as political journalist. In 2003 he gave in to his inner callings and followed his love – Burgundy wines – to Beaune. He interned with top Burgundian winegrowers and winemakers to learn everything possible about the unique terroir and winemaking process. He eventually established his own domaine and was able to purchase parcels in top vineyard sites in the Côte de Beaune and in the Côte de Nuits, and in addition he purchases fruit from a handful of superb growers across the Côte D’Or. I quote Allen Meadows (Burghound.com Issue 42, 2011): “Pethel clearly has a gifted touch because the wines are almost too good to have been made by someone with so little practical experience (he employs no consultants).”










07.45 pm Charcuterie and cheese paired with Burgundy wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune.

Maurice Marle was our host.

This wine bar, wine shop, restaurant, and guest house is kind of unique. The owener Maurice Marle is a character and gives the place a very special ambiance. On top of it he is a dictionary when it comes to Burgundy wines.

He guided us through a tasting explaining the terroir and character of the wines. This was lots of fun and at the same time a very educational evening.








Day 7: WEDNESDAY, June 01

09.30 am Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits­ Saint­ George, Côte de Nuits.

Mathilde Nicolas, Brand Ambassador, was our host.

Domaine Faiveley was established by Pierre Faiveley in 1825, and quickly became one of the top wine producers in Burgundy. After the great depression at the beginning of the 20th century, wine consumption decreased and sales fell drastically. Proprietor then was Georges Faiveley and he came up with a brilliant idea to reduce the stock of his great wines. He and friend Camille Rodier founded the now world­famous Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, the renaissance of an old bacchic brotherhood from the Middle Ages. "As our wines are no longer selling, let's invite our friends to drink them!" Since 2007 the domaine is owned and managed by Erwan Faiveley, the 7th generation of the Faiveley family and great grand­son of George. The domaine owns about 250 acres of vineyards – 150 acres were acquired over the years in the Côte Chalonnaise -¬ with 25 acres of Grand Cru and 70 acres of Premier Cru sites as well as several solely owned sites (Monopol sites).













11.30 pm Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits.

Louis Meunier was our host.

The roots of this domaine go back to the year 1926 when Jean Confuron of Vosne married Anne ­Marie Bouchard of Prémeaux – vines came from both sides of the family and the newly married couple chose to live in Prémeaux. Today the domaine is in the hands of their granddaughter Sophie who married Alain Meunier. When Sophie and Alan Meunier took over in 1988 it was clear to them to convert to organic farming. This is one of the small family run top Burgundy estates with 20 acres under vine in 1er and Grand Cru sites in the Côte de Nuits.















01.00 pm Lunch at restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-George.

La Cabotte is the best restaurant in Nuits-Saint-George and one of the best restaurants in the Bourgogne region.

Michelin: Good times are had by all at this modern, refined and convivial restaurant. It serves gourmet cuisine at reasonable prices in a pleasant, rustic setting and with a short but judicious wine list. Bib Gourmand:






02.30 pm Visit and tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-­Belair in Nuits-­Saint­-George.

Thibault Liger­-Belair was our host.

The domaine has been in the Liger-­Belair family for 250 years. The somewhat complicated history came to a happy end when Thibault Liger­Belair took charge of the vines as winemaker and created Domaine Thibault Liger­Belair in 2001. In 2003 he added parcels of Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, and in Vosne­Romanée to his vineyard portfolio. He also bought vineyards in the Beaujolais region, in Moulin­à­Vent. He wants to farm biodynamically but it takes some transition time to convert the vineyards. Thibault is emerging as one of the few truly great winemakers in Nuits­-Saint­-George.













04.45 pm Guided tour of the Château du Clos de Vougeot.

In former times the Château du Clos de Vougeot was the acrigultural domaine of the Abbey of Cîteaux, where the roots of the Order of the Cistercians lie. It is a grand 16th century Renaissance­style manor house, with a wine cellar dating back to the 12th century. It sits majestically in the center of the 125 acres Grand Cru vineyard ‘Clos de Vougeot’ – the largest Grand Cru site in all of Burgundy. It has been owned since 1945 by the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, a worldwide organization dedicated to the love of wine from Burgundy. The above­ground cellar, with its four enormous antique wine presses, is now used for their monthly dinners.








06.15 pm At Hotel La Gentilhommière in Nuits­-Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits.

Hotel La Gentilhommière in Nuits-Saint­-George is a 3+star Hotel, a typical Burgundian residence situated on the outskirts of town in a 30 acres beautiful park with a huge swimming pool and tennis courts.



07.30 pm Dinner at the restaurant of La Gentilhommière.












DAY 8: THURSDAY, June 02

09.30 am Vineyard walk, cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-­Romanée, Côte de Nuits.

Elodie Roy was our host. We also met the daughter of Anne Gros, who will take over from her.



The Romanée­-Conti vineyard dominates the village, with its wines among the most expensive in the world. It is a monopole of Domaine de la Romanée­Conti. Around 600 cases are made each year from the vineyard's 1.8 ha. The Gros family clan has been making wine in Burgundy since the early 19­hundreds and posesses plots in some of the finest red wine vineyards. One branch of the family was the Domaine François Gros in Vosne­-Romanée. His daughter Anne took over the domaine in 1988 and renamed it Domaine Anne Gros.










Today the domaine has 18 acres in and around Vosne­Romanée and parcels in three Grand Cru sites – Richebourg, Echezeaux, Clos de Vougeot. There are no 1er crus; on the village level there is La Combed’Orveau, Chambolle-­Musigny, Les Barreaux, and Vosne-­Romanée. Anne Gros has become one of the major players in Burgundy and her wines figure among the most sought­ after.









11.45 am Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits.

Jean-Michel Guillon was our host. We were also joint by Jean-Michel's son Alexis Guillon.

Jean­-Michel Guillon was born in Paris and a pilot with the French army. Nobody in his family was ever involved in wine. He always loved Burgundy wines and in 1980 he boarded a train to Burgundy, got off and stayed. He had no training or any qualifications in winemaking. He studied what the experienced masters in the region did and built up relationships that have led to acquisitions of vineyards. Through tireless work he built a domaine of 35 acres of vineyards in the finest sites, among them parcels in the 2 Grand Cru sites: Clos de Vougeot and Mazis-­Chambertin. In 2005 his son joined to work in the winery. Since 1990 the prominent French wine magazine Guide Hachette regularly selects the Guillon wines as top wines.










01.30 pm Lunch at restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin.

‘Chez Guy’ is an institution in the area. This restaurant is a gathering spot for winemakers and wine merchants in the region.

Sandrine Rebsamen ably directed the service. Chef Yves Rebsamen, who learned his trade under Michelin star chefs Ledoyen and Bernard Loiseau. greeted as did Guy Rebsamen.
















04.30 pm Cellar tour and tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­Romanée, Côte de Nuits.

Alice Rion was our host. Bernhard Rion greeted us.

Domaine Rion was founded in 1880 by Pierre Rion. His son Louis substantially enlarged the domaine. Forth generation Bernard Rion now manages the Domaine Rion with his wife Armelle and his daughter Alice. Wine production is very traditional with a high respect for nature. Vineyard management methods rely on natural or very specific products. 'Pheronomes' are diffused around the vineyards to provoke sexual confusion in certain insects eliminating the need to use insecticides. The average vines are over 50 years old and their roots draw nutrition from deep down in the ground. Besides the wine the family has a passion for truffles. The own four ‘truffel dogs’ who detect the best truffels hidden beneath the ground.











06.15 pm Back at hotel in Nuits­-Saint-­George.

DAY 9: FRIDAY, June 3

10.00 am Guided tour at Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard.

Fontenay Abbey in Burgundy was founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, a leading French saint, who was instrumental in placing the seeds for winemaking in all of Europe. It is the oldest preserved Cistercian abbey in the world. Recognized as French historic monument in 1862, it was declared World Heritage by Unesco in 1981. Luckily the abbey was not destroyed during and after the French revolution. All the buildings of the Romanesque period: the Abbey Church, the Dormitory, Cloister, Chapter Room, the Common Room, and the Forge are preserved. Still today we can admire the beauty and purity of architecture unspoiled for 900 years, and can enjoy the quiet of a place designed for spirituality.






12.00 pm Departure and drive to Chablis.




01.00 pm Winepairing lunch, cellar visit, and tasting at Domaine Jean-­Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis.

This domaine is a fruit of love. Jean­Marc Brocard is from the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy and fell in love with the daughter of a winemaker in Chablis. As a wedding gift, the couple got 2.5 acres of a vineyard near the church of Saint Claire in Préhy, in the vicinity of the town of Chablis. In 1973 Jean­Marc established the domaine Jean­Marc Brocard and developed the estate into a domaine with over 200 acres under vine. He had no prior connection with wine and trained with his father in­law to learn everything about winemaking. In 1996, Julien Brocard joined his father with the goal to convert to organic and biodynamic farming. The process is still ongoing. ‘La Boissonneuse’ vineyard was the first one to start with the transition process in 1997 and ‘Vielles Vignes’ followed in 2001. Today, Domaine Jean­-Marc Brocard is run by the ‘father­son’ team and stands for the upper echelon of Chablis wines.

Jean-Marc Brocard greeted us.





We then had lunch.







We then took a vineyard tour.





We then took a cellar tour.





The visit ended with a tasting.




06.30 pm At hotel Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis.

Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis is a 4 star very charming hotel in the heart of Chablis with a great spa and fitness room as well as a very good restaurant.


Others went out to discover the little town of Chablis ...






... or to buy Chablis.




The hotel restaurant Hostellerie des Clos is close to 1 Michelin star level and well regarded beyond Chablis. Some of us had dinner there.


Others, including Annette and me, had dinner in Chablis. There are a number of restaurants, brasseries, bistros for an evening meal.




DAY 10: SATURDAY, June 04

08.15 am Departure and drive to the Champagne region
.
09.45 am Visit and tasting at the grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­sur­Seine, Champagne.

Jean Pierre Josselin, his wife and Sharona Tsubota were our hosts.

The Josselin family has been growing grapes since 1854 in Gyé­sur­Seine in the Côte des Bar, located 150km south of Epernay and 200km south of Reims and crossed by two rivers: the Seine and the Aube. The Côte des Bar became part of the official Champagne region in the early 1900s. In 1957 Jean Josselin decided to create his own brand: ‘Champagne Jean Josselin’. Champagne Jean Josselin ist a typical so called ‘grower Champagne’. The entire operation is managed by the family. Jean Pierre Josselin and son Jean Félix tend to the vines and take care of the vinification and Veronique Josselin does sales and marketing. They hired an American Sharona Tsubota to get into the American market. The Champagne house Jean Josselin produce about 100,000 bottles per year depending on the vintage. We got a fabulous introduction to the steps it takes to produce a top notch Champagne.

We started the visit at the new production facility.






We then moved to the Domaine, where we visited the cellars and had a Champagne tasting.










12.00 pm Lunchat restaurant Les Berges de l’Ource in Essoyes, Champagne.

Essoyes simply is the village of Renoir. August Renoir married Aline Victorine Charigot, who grew up in Essoyes. The Renoir family spent every summer here and many more months during the year. This village became so important to them that they wanted to get buried here. At every turn of the village we bump into sites that were important to the Renoir family: their family home, August Renor’s studio, their burial plot on the local cemetery. We will have time to visit some of the important Renoir sites.







04.30 pm Cellar visit and tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne.

Export Manager Christian Holthausen was our host.

AR Lenoble is one of the rare producers in Champagne that has been consistently family­owned and entirely independent since the very beginning. AR Lenoble was founded in 1920 by Armand­Raphaël Graser who arrived in Champagne from his native Alsace in 1915 in the middle of the First World War. Not wanting to have a German­sounding last name at that particular moment in history, he christened his wines “Lenoble” as he believed the wines of Champagne to be the most noble wines in France; his initials “AR” preceded the “Lenoble” and a new bran was created. Today his grandchildren brother and sister Antoine and Anne Malassagne are owners and manger of the estate. They took over in 1993 from their father and in just over twenty years, they have quietly yet confidently transformed AR Lenoble into one of the jewels of the Champagne region. AR Lenoble was the second House in Champagne to be awarded the “Haute Valeur Environnementale” certification as part of a legal measure implemented under French law in 2007 to encourage sustainable development.














06.30 pm At Hotel Holiday Inn in Reims.

Hotel Holiday Inn Reims Centre in Reims, a 4 star modern hotel with a roof top restaurant that provides for a stunning birds eye view on the cathedral.


DAY 11: SUNDAY, June 05

09.45 am Cellar visit and tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne.

The Champagne House Taittinger was founded in 1734 by Jacques Fourneaux, who worked closely with the Benedictine Abbeys who owned the finest vineyards at that time. In 1932, Pierre Taittinger bought the Château de la Marquetterie from the wine house of Forest­Fourneaux. Taittinger has extensive vineyard holdings of 752 acres, including prestigious Grand Cru vineyards. Highest­quality production: exceeding minimum aging for all cuvées, high percentage of estate grapes, sustainable practices, use of a higher proportion of Chardonnay grapes in its blends than other large houses—this all gives the Taittinger’ Champagne a unique personality.











12.00 pm Wine pairing lunch at restaurant Brasserie Flo in Reims.

We finished the tour with an exquisite meal with wines from Burgundy and of course a Champagne at a very typical upscale French Brasserie.












Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Winebars in Beaune

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims 

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

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Picture: Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon

A Bouchon serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. Originally, the husband would watch over the dining room and pour the wine (Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône), while the wife cooked every day, family-style cuisine, centered on the offal and cooked meats which Lyon is famous for.

On the Bourgogne and Champagne Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours most of us arrived in Lyon, where the tour started, a day or 2 days before the tour. Those of us, who were in Lyon on the evening before the tour started, had dinner at a Bouchon. Because of difficulties to make a reservation for a group of 12 on short notice, we split up into two groups. 6 of us went to Daniel et Denise and the rest (including Annette Schiller and myself) to Chez Paul.

Lyon and its Bouchons

A bouchon is a type of restaurant found in Lyon, France, that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, duck pâté or roast pork. Typically, the emphasis in a bouchon is not on haute cuisine but, rather, a convivial atmosphere and a personal relationship with the owner.

There are approximately twenty officially certified traditional Bouchons. Here is the current list: Abel, Brunet, Café des deux places, Café des fédérations, Chabert et fils, Daniel et Denise, Chez Georges le petit bouchon, Les gones, Hugon, Le Jura, Chez Marcelle, Le Mercière, La mère Jean, Le mitonné, Le Morgon, Le musée, Chez Paul, Les Trois Maries, A ma vigne, and Le Vivarais.

Michelin: It is unclear whether certain establishments are authentic Bouchons or not, even while they offer menus which are perfectly representative of the genre. Chez Daniel et Denise is one such restaurant. For the past few years it has been operating under the toque of Joseph Viola, former chef of Léon de Lyon, serving such specialities as omelette du curé (an omelette generally made with chicken livers) with crayfish and Nantua sauce, le tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe), macaroni gratin and sautéed potatoes to die for. Its pâté en croûte aux ris de veau (veal sweetbreads in pastry crust) is, according to Paul Bocuse, Lyon’s best.

Dinner at Chez Paul

Pictures: Dinner at Chez Paul

Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon

Chez Paul

Pictures: Chez Paul

La Meunière
11 Rue Neuve 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 62 91

Daniel et Denise
156 Rue de Créqui 69003 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 60 66 53

Restaurant Daniel et Denise
36 Rue Tramassac 69005 Lyon Tel: (33) 4 78 42 24 62

Picture: Daniel et Denise

La Tête de lard
13 Rue Désirée 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 27 96 80

Café des Fédérations
8-9-10 Rue Major Martin 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 26 00

Picture: Café des Fédérations

Au petit Bouchon ’Chez Georges’
8 Rue Garet 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 30 46

Picture: Au petit Bouchon ’Chez Georges’

Café du Jura
25 Rue Tupin 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 42 20 57

Chez Hugon
12 Rue Pizay 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 10 94

La Mère Jean
5 Rue Marronniers 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 37 81 27

Le Musée
2 Rue des Forces 69002 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 37 71 54.

Le Garet
7 Rue du Garet 69001 Lyon Tel: (33) 04 78 28 16 94

Picture: Le Garet

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Winebars in Beaune

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Lunch at the Eberbach Abbey

Following the tour and tasting at Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, we went to Kloster Eberbach, where we had lunch and a tour.

Pictures: Kloster Eberbach

Kloster Eberbach

The Eberbach Abbey is a former Cistercian monastery, founded in 1136 by Bernard of Clairvaux as the first Cistercian monastery on the eastern bank of the Rhine River. Its Romanesque and Gothic buildings are impressive.

The Abbey, including its vineyards, was secularised under Napoleon in 1803. The new owner was the Duke of Nassau. Then, from 1866, Prussia became the owner of the Abbey and its vineyards. Finally, in 1945 after World War II, the Federal State of Hessen took it over.

Pictures: Lunch at Kloster Eberbach

Most of the vineyard holdings of the Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach date back to the days, when Cistercian monks founded the Eberbach Abbey. The vineyards of the Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe.

We got an in-depth tour of the Abbey, including the visit of the old monk’s dormitory where every year the famous auction of premium German wines takes place. A very special treat was a peek into the treasure chamber, where century old wine bottles are still stored and where the movie “The Name of the Rose” with Sean Connery was filmed in 1986.

Pictures: Tour of Kloster Eberbach

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach

The Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach serves as an umbrella organization for seven individual wine estates, including 3 wine producing facilities and cellars:

The Bensheim Estate is the only one located in the Hessische Bergstraße wine-growing region. Grand Duke of Hessen-Darmstadt founded this Estate in 1904, the vineyard holdings total 38 hectares. The main grape variety planted is Riesling (25 ha), as well as Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.

The red wine Estate Assmannshausen at the western edge of the Rheingau has a vineyard area of 27 hectares in the Höllenberg site, of which 25 hectares are planted with Pinot Noir. These two Estates do their own bottling, and market the wines under their own names.

The Hattenheim Estate (50 ha vineyard area in the Engelmannsberg, Siegelsberg and Marcobrunn sites).

The Hochheim Estate.

The Rauenthal Estate (48 ha in the Baiken and Wülfen sites).

The Rüdesheim Estate (23 ha in the Berg Roseneck, Berg Rottland and Berg Schlossberg sites).

The Steinberg (32 ha, a monopole holding).

The total vineyard area of the 7 estates comes to more than 200 hectares, of which 85% are planted with Riesling, 10% with Pinot Noir and 5% with other varieties.

A few years ago, the Hessische Staatsweingüter built a new winemaking facility and celler just outside the wall of Steinberg, the Steinbergkeller. The Steinbergkeller – a state of the art winery - was a very controversial project. It was constructed for several 100 million Euro.

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Bernd and Ralph Schönleber

Vineyard tour, Cellar tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh

Cruise on the Rhine River from Lorch to Boppard

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Frau Prüm

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps 

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

The first wine region we visited on the Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours was the Saale-Unstrut Region. There, we visited 3 wineries: Weingut Lützkendorf, Weingut Bernhard Pawis and Weingut Heil. The former 2 are heavy-weights; these are the only 2 members of the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers, in the Saale-Unstrut Region. Weingut Heil is an up-and-coming wine producer.

The Saale-Unstrut wine region sits on 51st latitude and is Germany’s northernmost wine region, located in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, an area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.

 Picture: Saale Unstrut Wine Region

Weingut Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities nationalized the property and integrated the estate into the government run Agricultural Cooperative. In 1991, after the reunification of the two German States the vineyards were returned to the family. Uwe Lützkendorf reestablished the winery, revamped the vineyards, and built new production facilities in Bad Kösen.

Picture: Weingut Lützkendorf

To listen to Uwe Lützkendorf , and also to his fellow winemakers in this former GDR area, recounting their stories of reviving an economic and agriculture waste land after German reunification, is living history and worthy of a spy thriller.

Picture: Uwe Lützkendorf

Weingut Lützkendorf

Weingut Lützkendorf is in Bad Kösen on the Saale River; administratively, Bad Kösen is part of the town of Naumburg. The state-run winery Kloser Pforta is also in Bad Kösen. Uwe Lutzkendorf is the winemaker and owner.

Picture: Welcome

Weingut Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities integrated the estate (2 hectares) into the government run Agricultural Cooperative.

Udo Lützkendorf, the father of Uwe, was the Director and Cellar master from 1972 to 1992 in what was then the state-owned, and now again state-owned Kloster Pforta Estate, most of the time in the GDR and for 3 years in the re-unified Germany.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Uwe Lützkendorf

The Lützkendorf’s vineyards were handed back to the family in 1991 and the Lützkendorfs made their own wine again with the 1991 vintage. What then followed was a major re-launch, including replanting the vineyards, buying and leasing new vineyards and building a winery, including a Gutsausschank (winery tavern).

In 1996 the winery Lützkendorf was the first estate in the Saale-Unstrut region to become member of the prestigious VDP, the Association of Germany’s Premium Winemakers.

Pictures: Uwe Lützkendorf with his Mother and his Son

Today, the vineyard area totals 11 hectares, with holdings in the Edelacker (Freyburg), Hohe Gräte (Karsdorf) and Köppelberg (Schulpforte). The area is planted with Silvaner (35%), Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Traminer, Müller-Thurgau and Kerner, as well as with Pinot Noir, Portugieser and Blauer Zweigelt.

The stony soils and the climate of this northern wine region decisively influences the character of the wines. Uwe Lützkendorf’s philosophy of wine making is as little intervention as possible to showcase the character of the terroir. The wines are matured very reductively in either stainless steel tanks or in oak vats. With very few exceptions, the wines are fermented dry.

“40 percent of our wines are sold to top restaurants, largely in the eastern part of Germany. The same amount is sold directly to private customers and the remaining 20 percent in the winery’s wine tavern.”

Pictures: Tasting with Uwe Lützkendorf

The Wines Uwe Lützkendorf Poured

Uwe poured an impressive series of wines.


VDP.Gutsweine

2015 Weingut Lützkendorf Pfortenser Gutedel feinherb. Gutedel is one of the oldest grape varieties in the world. Today, it is a popular grape variety in Switzerland.


VDP.Erste Lage

2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Riesling Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Weisburgunder Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Silvaner Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken

VDP. Grosses Gewächs

2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Silvaner Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2015 Weingut Lützkendorf Weisburgunder Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Weisburgunder Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Riesling Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken
2014 Weingut Lützkendorf Traminer Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte trocken


Bye-bye

Thank you very much Uwe for an outstanding tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut, with Uwe Lützkendorf

Vinyard Walk and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey

Tasting at Weingut Pawis in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz, Saale-Unstrut, with Marcus Pawis

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music: Lunch with Gottfried Herrlich at Restaurant Vincenz Richter in Meissen

Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Tasting at Weingut Tim Strasser/Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen, with Tim Strasser

Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Weingut Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen, with Lutz Müller

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken with Winemaker Christian Kallisch

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller in Würzburg, Franken, with General Manager Marcel von den Benken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Visit of Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg, with Kyle Frank from the Finger Lakes

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder 

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

The Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours took place from May 26 to June 05, 2016. The tour started in Lyon and ended in Reims.

The first stop on the tour was a tasting at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommerlier Georges Dos Santos.

From the Grand Hotel des Terreaux in Lyon - a 4 star beautiful hotel in the heart of Old Lyon, which combines the atmosphere of an old­fashioned 19th century town house with a modern, innovative décor - we took a short walk across the bridge of the Sâone River to Antic Wine in the Renaissance part of old Lyon.

Owner and famous Sommelier Georges Dos Santos introduced us to the Bourgogne region. We tasted 6 wines.

Pictures: Antic Wine in Lyon

Georges Dos Santos

From the Toronto Star: LYON, France— Georges Dos Santos cracks open his 15th bottle of wine of the day and serves up a smorgasbord of tasty advice along with a healthy helping of crisp, cold Chardonnay. At his fingertips are dozens of wine tomes, gourmet magazines and hundreds of business cards from his favourite local restaurants. There’s also a stack of « the bible of Lyon » — the Lyon Restaurants guide — which Dos Santos hands out religiously. His tiny shop, Antic Wine, in the historic heart of Lyon, is more than just an eclectic place to come for wines and free tastings. It’s a crucial first stop for visitors looking to get their bearings in what’s billed as ‘the culinary capital of France‘. Dos Santos knows the food and wine of Lyon as well as [anyone]. More than 4,000 bottles of wine line the walls and cram the cellar of his historic shop on cobble-stoned rue du Boeuf. “This area is unique ,” says Dos Santos. ‘”If you go to Bordeaux, all you can drink is Bordeaux. If you go to Paris — well, there's no (sic.) vineyards. We're the only town in the world with three (wine-growing regions) within 30 minutes.”

Pictures: Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world’s best-known wine areas, but perhaps one of the least understood. Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual châteaux. In Burgundy a specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the owner or producer.

Pictures: Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Secularization during Napoleonic times and the Napoleonic inheritance law led to a subdivision of even the most precious vineyards so that some growers hold only a row or two of vines. Clos de Vougeot for example is a vineyard of 130 acres today parceled into plots owned by 80 different owners. This led to the emergence of négociants who aggregate the produce of many growers to make a single wine.

Pictures: Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Burgundy with its 80,000 acres under vine represents just 3% of the French vineyard surface area. The core of the Burgundy region is divided into five appelations from north to south: Chablis, a predominantly white wine region; Côte de Nuits, predominantly red with the world-famous Grands Crus such as La Tache, Romanée Conti, Clos de Vougeot, etc; Côte de Beaune, red and white, including the world’s most expensive white wine, the Grand Cru Montrachet as well as the famous Grand Cru Charlemagne. Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune together form the so called ‘Côte d’Or’, where the Grand Crus are located. Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais follow further south and transition into the Beaujolais. According to the French land registry Beaujolais belongs to the Burgundy region. When we talk about Burgundy here I am referring to the 5 core regions. Nearly all white Burgundy is Chardonnay with only 6% Aligoté planted. Red Burgundy is almost 100% Pinot Noir, with a small amount of Gamay. There also is 3% ‘Passetoutgrain’, which is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. The Cistercian monks were instrumental in introducing winemaking in Burgundy and spreading the art of winemaking to other parts in Europe.

The Wine Georges Dos Santos Poured

Pictures: The Wines Georges Poured

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Winebars in Beaune

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

ombiasy WineTours 2015: Bourgogne, Germany-East Wine and Art, Germany-South, Germany-North and Bordeaux - All Postings

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Picture: With Dany Rolland at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

This posting provides listings of all postings that I issued concerning the 5 ombiasy WineTours that took place in 2015, all lead by Annette Schiller:

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: At the Hospices de Beaune in Beaune, Bourgogne

The Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours in 2015 was organized for a special group, the Wine Brotherhood of Hochheim, Germany (Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim). The tour took place from March 31 to June 6, 2015.

The 2015 Bourgogne Tour, for the Wine Brotherhood of Hochheim, began and ended in Hochheim, which is close to Frankfurt: From Frankfurt – via the Champagne, Tonnerre and Chablis – we headed to the southern tip of the Mâconnais and from there worked our way up to the north through the famous vineyards of the Bourgogne - Côte Chalonnaise, Beaune, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits – back to Frankfurt.

(As an aside, in 2016, the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours began in Lyon and ended in Reims. Starting in Lyon, we moved northwards from there (by coach), to Reims/ Paris: Lyon, Beaujolais, Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, Beaune, Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Chablis, Champagne, Reims/ Paris.
While in 2015, we just passed through the Champagne Region, with lunch and one tasting there, in 2016, we will spent considerably more time in the Champagne Region.)

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Olivier Leflaive: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Patrick Leflaive– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch and Winetasting at La Table de Olivier in Pouligny Montrachet– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Mestre - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015, France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France

Visit: Hospices de Beaune with Karoline Knoth– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine A.-F. Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador) – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

"Open Air" Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux, Nuits Saint Georges – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Wine Tasting in the Cellar with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tasting at Domaine Jean Michel Guillon in Gevrey-Chambertin with Jean Michel Guillon – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Impromptu Meeting with Caro Maurer, Master of Wine, in Dresden

The Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours took place from June 11 to June 20, 2015. It was the first tour of this kind, focusing on the lesser known regions east of the Rhine River as well as incorporating a strong art component. This posting provides a summary of the whole tour; further postings will cover individual events.

Annette Schiller in her announcement: “This tour allows wine lovers and aficionados of the arts to experience what the statement “wine is a form of art” entails. We will live the profound relationship between wine, music, dance, and visual arts by visiting Germany’s beautiful, lesser known wine regions, and the region which is the cradle of German culture, and intellectual thinking. We meet winemakers who embody the "wine and art" approach right at their wineries, and we will attend four world-class concert-opera-, and ballet performances in East-and Middle Germany. This tour will tickle all your senses and emotions.”

And indeed: this tour was a feast for all of our senses. My fellow travelers will certainly second my statement. All the wines we tasted were gorgeous, in particular spectacular Pinot-Blancs in Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut; the hospitality of the winemakers / owners was heart warming, the art, and the cultural heritage sights we saw were absolutely amazing, our intellectual capacity was teased to grasp the complexity of European and German history through the personal background family stories some of the wine estate owners shared with us, the concerts, opera, and ballet performances all were breathtakingly beautiful and very emotional.

Postings on the Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen in Franken with General Manager Uwe Matheus– Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting and Tour with the Pinot Noir Legend Paul Fürst, Weingut Rudolf Fürst in Bürgstadt, Franken– Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg– Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner Duke Michael of Württemberg and Winemaker Moriz Just – Germany-East Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle, Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) at Weingut Müller-Catoir in Neustadt-Haardt, Pfalz

The Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (August 30 – September 5, 2015) was the second of three wine tours in Germany in 2015, organized by Annette Schiller. The group was small - there were 5 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview.

We visited a total of 17 wineries (8 members of the VDP, the German association of elite wine makers; 2 in Alsace) in 3 different German wine regions where predominantly grapes other than Riesling are planted: Baden, the most southern German wine region and Germany’s answer to Burgundy; Pfalz with its almost Mediterranean climate and voluptuous whites and reds; Southern Rheinhessen where a variety of white grapes and also Pinot-Noir grow. In addition, we visited 2 wineries in Alsace in France.

Postings on the Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting (and Lunch) with Robert Schätzle, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Neuweier in Baden– Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Wine Pairing Lunch at Röttele’s Restaurant (1 Star Michelin) at Schloss Neuweier, with Owner and Winemaker Robert Schätzle, Weingut Schloss Neuweier - German South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Salwey in Oberrotweil, Kaiserstuhl, Baden, with Benno Salwey – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Bernhard Huber in Baden, with Yquem Viehauser and Julian Huber – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. Heger in Ihringen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Maison Léon Beyer in Eguisheim, Alsace, France, with Marc Beyer – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

At Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg, Alsace, with Catherine Faller: Tasting and Tour – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz in Siebeldingen, Pfalz – Germany-South by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Müller Catoir – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Winning in Deidesheim, Pfalz– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Josef Biffar, in Deidesheim, with Owner/ Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant fumi at Weingut Josef Biffar in Deidesheim with Owner/ Winemaker Fumiko Tokuoka: Japan Meets Pfalz – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Markus Schneider in Ellerstadt, Pfalz, with Markus Schneider - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Eva Vollmer in Mainz-Ebersheim, Rheinhessen - Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: At Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau at "Spätlese Reiter" (Later Harvest Rider) Monument, with Christian Wiite, General Manager of Weingut Schloss Johannisberg

The Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (September 6 – September 12, 2015) was the third of three wine tours in Germany in 2015, organized by Annette Schiller. The group was small - there were 7 of us, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview. More specific postings focusing on individual events will follow (see list below).

On the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours in 2015, we visited a total of 14 wineries in 5 different wine regions: Rheingau, the jewel in the crown, with its perfect, fuller bodied, racy Rieslings; Mittelrhein where the Rieslings grow on the steep slopes of the fortress- and castle-ribboned banks of the Rhine river; Ahr with its sun collecting canyons perfect for the finicky Pinot Noir grape; Mosel with its dizzying steep vineyards and famous elegant Rieslings; Nahe and its serene, peaceful valley where perfect harmonious wines reflect their roots.

Postings on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine and Music at Eberbach Abbey in the Rheingau - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Wine Tasting with Lunch, with Mark Barth at Wein- und Sektgut Barth in Hattenheim, Rheingau– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Spreitzer in Oestrich, Rheingau, with Bernd Spreitzer – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Toni Jost in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Cecilia Jost– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cruise on the Rhein River in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut J.J. Adeneuer in Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr, with Marc Adeneuer - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Meyer-Näkel in Dernau, Ahr, with Dörte Näkel– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Leiwen, Mosel, with Nik Weis – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch, Tasting and Vineyard Walk at Weingut Van Volxem with Owner Roman Niewodniczanski – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Hexamer in Monzingen, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Gut Hermannsberg in Niederhausen, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Wine Dinner with Tour at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Georg Rumpf – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Visit of a Small, Premium Sekt Producer: Sektkellerei Bardong in the Rheingau, Germany – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Tour and Tasting at Schloss Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Christian Witte, Domaine Director– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Picture: Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and Director Benoit Prevot

Led by Annette Schiller, the Bordeaux Tour 2015 by ombiasy WineTours took place from September 15 to 24, 2015. The group comprised 8 wine lovers from the United States, including Annette and Christian Schiller. This posting provides an overview. Future postings will focus on specific events of the tour. See the list of postings at the end of the article.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Bordeaux. "Bordeaux" embodies not only "wine": The interplay of wine and food is very important. Therefore our tour has a strong culinary component, with exquisite wine pairing lunches and dinners at the Châteaux playing a daily part of our journey through the Bordeaux wine region. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of the region and close personal ties to many of the Château owners/ managers/ winemakers, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to feel what Bordeaux is all about. In a nutshell: this is an on ground wine class on Bordeaux!

Postings on the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Domaine de Chevalier with Director Adjoint Rémi Edange and Owner/Director Olivier Bernard – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France

Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Angélus– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour, Tasting and Wine Lunch at a Petit Château and Organic Producer: Château Beauséjour – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit of an Ultra-premium Non-mainstream Bordeaux Producer: Tertre Rôteboeuf, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile, France – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour and Tasting at Château Figeac, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, in Saint-Émilion– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol, with Dany Rolland– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours(2015), France

The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Tour and Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château de Fargues, Appellation Sauternes, with Prince Eudes d’Orléans– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Lunch at Restaurant Château de la Tour in Cadillac with Catherine Boyer, Château Du Cros, Loupiac– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Visit and Tasting: Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Wine Lunch at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte’s Restaurant La Grand’ Vigne (2 Stars Michelin, Chef: Nicolas Masse) – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

Wine Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Clos du Moulin, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Tour and Tasting at Château Léoville Poyferré, Appellation Saint-Julien, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Didier Cuvelier – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting and Wine Lunch at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France

Tour and Tasting at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux-Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Bordeaux, France

How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Lunch at Restaurant Le Peyrat in Saint-Estèphe with the Grape Pickers of Château Sociando Mallet – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet with Owner Basile Tesseron– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château Rauzan-Ségla, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé – Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Tasting at Château Palmer, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé– Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Tour and Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

schiller-wine: Related Postings 

ombiasy WineTours 2015: Bourgogne, Germany-East Wine and Art, Germany-South, Germany-North and Bordeaux - All Postings 


ombiasy WineTours 2014: Germany-North and Germany-South - All Postings

ombiasy WineTour 2013: Bordeaux - All Postings

Bourgogne in Riesling Land: Tasting at Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture:  Bourgogne in Riesling Land: Tasting at Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with General Manager/ Winemaker Michael Städter – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Weingut Chat Sauvage is the odd ball among the traditional century old wineries in the Rheingau. While the Rheingau is famous for its Rieslings, accounting for almost 80 percent of its output, Chat Sauvage’s vineyards are only planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, like in the Bourgogne in France. And Chat Sauvage’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs rank among the best in the country.

Picture: Weingut Chat Sauvage with Schloss Johannisberg in the Background.

General Manager/ Winemaker Michael Städter was our host. Our visit coincided with Weingut Chat Sauvage’s “Schlemmerwochen” (gourmet week) event.

Weingut Chat Sauvage

Weingut Chat Sauvage, founded in 2001, is the baby of Günter Schulz, who has made his money and still is making his money outside of the wine industry. Wine, in particular Bourgogne varieties, is his passion. The winery is run by Michael Städter.

The history of Weingut Chat Sauvage began in 1992, when Günther Schulz started to make regular visits from Hamburg, where he lives, to the Rheingau in order to visit his daughter. He quickly fell in love with the region and began to think about making wine himself in the Rheingau. His first wines – couple of barrels - were made at Weingut Schamari-Mühle in Johannisberg, in cooperation with Erik Andersson.

Picture: Michael Städter and Annette Schiller

Right from the beginning, the Chat Sauvage wines were sought after by wine lovers in Germany, which encouraged Günter Schulz to push ahead with his passion. The next important step was the construction of a winery. He auctioned off his collection of fine wines at Christie’s in London and used the proceeds to buy more vineyard land and to construct a winery in Johannisberg in the Rheingau. Weingut Chat Sauvage moved into the new winery in August 2010.

The vineyard area of Chat Sauvage totals 9 hectares, with 7 hectares Pinot Noir and 2 hectares Chardonnay. 2/3 of the vineyards are steep slopes. The Chat Sauvage vineyards are scattered around in the western part of the Rheingau.

Pictures: Tasting

All work in Chat Sauvage’s vineyards is manual work. Considerable attention is paid to keeping the yields low, with first pruning after flowering, a green harvest, as well as selective hand-picking.

In terms of the cellar, Michael explained that traditional maceration, 18 months aging in barrique and no filtration are among the guiding principles for making Chat Sauvage wines. In terms of oak, Michael told us that they had experimented with Hungarian wood, but have settled now on French oak. Spontaneous fermentation? Michael expressed skepticism.

Michael Städter

While Günter Schulz is the owner and the brain behind Weingut Chat Sauvage, the man on the ground is Michael Städter. He is the Managing Director and the Cellar Master of Weingut Chat Sauvage. He has been with Günter Schulz from early on in the Chat Sauvage undertaking. His mother is from Oestrich Winkel in the Rheingau.

Pictures: General Manager and Winemaker Michael Städter

Michael started his career in the wine industry at Schloss Johannisberg, where he did a 3 years apprenticeship in winemaking. This was followed by studies in viticulture and oenology at the famous Geisenheim College. During his studies, Michael worked at the Weingut Schamari-Mühle, were Günter Schulz started his Chat Sauvage journey in 2001. Thus, right from the beginning, Michael was part of the project. When Günter Schulz decided to have his own winery, he asked Michael if he would be interested in joining him as Managing Director and Winemaker. Michael accepted.

What Michael Städter Poured


2013 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Rheingau, Rose, Pinot Noir


2014 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Rheingau, Chardonnay
2013 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Rheingau, Pinot Noir, Gutswein (from the whole Rheingau Region)
2011 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Rüdesheim, Pinot Noir, Ortswein (from the Rüdesheim Village)
2012 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Johannisberger Hölle, Pinot Noir, Lagenwein (from a single vineyard)


2007 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Lorcher Kapellenberg, Pinot Noir, Lagenwein (from a single vineyard)

In terms of ex winery prices, Weingut Chat Sauvage’s Pinot Noir portfolio starts at Euro 17 (for the Gutswein). At the Ortswein level the Pinots go for Euro 28 and at the Lagenwein level mostly for Euro 45. The most expensive wine currently is the 2013 Weingut Chat Sauvage, Lorcher Schlossberg, Pinot Noir, Lagenwein, which sells for Euro 150.


Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Bernd and Ralph Schönleber

Vineyard tour, Cellar tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh

Cruise on the Rhine River from Lorch to Boppard

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Frau Prüm

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps 

Dining and Wining in Charleston, South Carolina, at Cypress, McCrady’s and Bin 152 with #winelover and Blogger Keith Edwards and Parlo Edwards

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Picture: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller, Keith Edwards and Parlo Edwardsat Cypress in Charleston. South Carolina

Charleston in South Carolina is one of the culinary powerhouses of the USA. It is not without reason that Tom Sietma’s series in the Washington Post about the culinary hotspots in the USA included Charleston, South Carolina, in addition to: San Francisco, Chicago, Portland, Oregon, Philadelphia, New Orleans, New York, Los Angeles, Houston and Washington DC.

Annette Schiller and I spent 3 weeks in Charleston in June 2015, to welcome the newest addition to our family, Ernest Beowolf Charles Tremann, our 7th grandchild. During that time, Florida-based #winelover and accomplished wine blogger Keith Edwards and his charming wife Parlo Edwards passed through Charleston (coming from a family reunion in North Carolina and going back home to Florida) and we were able to spend an evening together.

Keith Edwards is well known in the American wine scene. He introduces himself on his blog Wine -- Mise en abymeas "Wine enthusiast, UCDavis Winemaking Certificate, WSET Level 3 Advanced Certificate with distinction, certified Spanish wine educator, economist, archaeologist, wine buyer for a sizeable personal collection that is populated with stellar vintages and labels from the world's premier wine growing regions."

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Keith Edwards in Ticino, Switzerland, see: Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland

We had dinner at the renowned Restaurant McCrady’s, preceded by Champagne at Cypress, also a top restaurant with a great wine bar, and followed by a bottle of top Bordeaux at Bin 152, one of the Charleston wine bars that offer and outstanding wine selection and stay open until 2 am in the morning.

Charleston

Charleston in South Carolina is a coastal town rich in history and tradition that also has plenty to offer for food and wine aficionados. Built 3 centuries ago, the city of Charleston is one of the best preserved architectural treasures in the USA. The meticulously restored colonial homes lining its charming streets are a reminder of the city’s long and colorful history. The birthplace of the Charleston dance – made famous by Josephine Baker – the city still has all the charm that it owes to its multi-ethnic European origins.

Tom Sietsma in the Washington Post: Eating well is almost a birthright here in the low country, where I recently spent several days eating, drinking and shopping to gauge where this city of about 125,000 residents fits on the country’s food scale. Charleston is my first stop on a tour of American cities that I believe are the best places to eat right now, an assessment defined by many factors: creativity, variety, tradition, access to prime ingredients and more. … Charleston as a serious restaurant destination is a fairly recent phenomenon. … Having sampled most of the city’s all-stars over the years — Fig, I’m pleased to report, remains as luscious as ever, and if there’s a single dish you have to try, it’s shrimp ’n’ grits at the cozy Hominy Grill — I zeroed in on Charleston’s young crop of restaurants on my most recent visits. The best and brightest, I found, have come up with creative ways of serving tradition, sometimes in casual environments in parts of the city unaccustomed to hipster restaurants.

Keith Edwards About the Evening 

Keith Edwards on facebook: Great evening with Christian and Annette Schiller and Parlo Edwards in Charleston. We started out with bubbles at Cypress where the top-floor bar provides an excellent vantage point for viewing the streets outside as well as the two-level wine cellar and the first-floor kitchen inside. We had a excellent bottle of Ruppert-Leroy Chardonnay Brut Nature at this stop.

We next walked over to McCrady's our dinner stop. Great food accompanied by a Riesling, a Chateau Musar, and a German Pinot Noir. The Pinot was unfocused and disappointing. Not so the Somm. Bubbly and informative and preparing for her Advanced in a couple of weeks.Looking forward to catching up with her at the upcoming Texsom.

This being Charleston, and this particular group being a bunch of night owls. We made a third wine-related stop: Bin 152 at 152 King Street. Annette was craving Bordeaux so we got a bottle of '05 Prieure- Lichine. Twas good. We rolled out of the bar and went to see if the Thoroughbred Lounge was still open. It was not. We had put Charleston to bed. Oh well, I guess we will have to start out earlier the next time around.

First Stop: Champagne at Cypress

If you want to treat yourself to an upscale culinary experience, put Cypress on your list. The cuisine is eclectic American with a subtle blend of French and Asian. But if you want just a glass of wines, Cypress also has a swanky mezzanine bar upstairs. Both the dining area and the mezzanine bar have a modern, chic vibe. See also: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Pictures: At Cypress with Cypress Sommelier Bill Netherland

The Ruppert-Leroy Brut Nature was outstanding. Ruppert-Leroy is a small producer in Essoyes in the South of the Champagne. Essoyes is the village of Renoir. August Renoir married Aline Victorine Charigot, who grew up in Essoyes. The Renoir family spent every summer there and many more months during the year. This village became so important to them that they wanted to get buried here. We were there 3 weeks ago on the "Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History" and had a Ruppert-Leroy Champagne for lunch.

Pictures: Lunch in Essoyes - the City of Renoir in the Southern Part of the Champagne during the Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour, see:  Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History
Annette Schiller on facebook: Yes, the Champagne was to die for! Absolutely perfect, a no dosage, simply devine and the winery is in one of my favorite places in the Champagne region: in Essoyes in the Côte de Bars, the village where Auguste Renoir spent half his life time and where the family grave of the Renoirs is.

Picture: Pre-dinner Champagne at Cypress

Dinner at McCrady’s

Tom Sietsma: The dowager on the dining scene, McCrady's can trace its roots back more than 200 years. Such dishes as ember-grilled sunchokes with creamed lettuces and mint -- and a $115 tasting menu spanning three snacks and seven courses -- plant diners firmly in 2015.

Pictures: With McCrady's Manager/ Sommelier Garth Herr, Sommelier Jodi Bronchtein, Bartender Bethany Kocak at McCrady's and at Bin 192

Pictures: Dinner at McCrady's with Sommelier Jodi Bronchtein

The Food

The first thing we learnt at McCrady’s was that as of the day before, the restaurant was in a transition period which would eventually lead to 2 separate restaurants, one being a more basic kind of tavern restaurant and the other being a kind of Chef’s table high end place. For the time being, the tasting menu, which we had planned to take, was not longer available. So, we ordered a la carte and were not at all disappointed.

First Courses

Picture: First Course

Picture: Foie Gras

Picture: Scallops

Picture: Mushroom and Pine Nut Stew

Main Courses

Picture: Main Course

Picture: Beef Flat Iron

Picture: Rack of Lamb

Picture: Redfish

The Wines

Pictures: The Wines at McCrady's

2012 Weingut Dreissigacker, Hasensprung, Riesling Dry

We started with a dry German Riesling from Jochen Dreissigacker in Rheinhessen. Chancellor Angela Merkel served his wines when President Obama was in Berlin 2 years ago. See: Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany


2007 Château Musar

We then moved to a 2007 Château.


2012 Heger, Pinot Noir, Baden

And finished with a German Pinot Noir. Annette Schiller on facebook: Unfortunately the German Pinot Noir from Joachim Heger we had at the end of the meal was just an entry level wine - and the old wisdom: you get for you pay for- applied here, just a very basic wine with no harmony, it fell apart while sipping it. Joachim Heger makes stunning Pinot Noirs, on par with the best of Burgundy, but at McGrady's they only had this very, very basic one on the list. Come along in 2017 on the Germany South tour and you will experience the true, gorgeous German Pinot Noirs from Joachim Heger: Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)


After Dinner Bordeaux at Bin 152

For the after-dinner wine, we went to Bin 152 and had a bottle of 2007  Château Prieuré-Lichine, a 4th Growth in Margaux. 

2007 Château Prieuré-Lichine, Bordeaux, 4ème Cru Classé

Pictures: After-dinner Wine

Home

From Bin 152, Annette and I had to walk just a few blocks to get home to the townhouse in Queen Street, which Cornelia and Chris Tremann with Viatrix and Ernest had rented for their temporary stay in Charleston. 

Picture: Queen Street in Charleston

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Exploring the Wines of Ticino in Ticino, the Italian Speaking Part of Switzerland

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA

Tasting the Wines President Obama was Served: At Weingut Dreissigacker in Bechtheim, Rheinhessen, with Ute Dreissigacker– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

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Picture: Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem in Beaune

This is a list of my favorite wine venues in Beaune. It includes 3 groups of wine places: First, proper wine bars, i.e. places where you go for a glass of wine and perhaps some cold cuts; second, bistros, brasseries and restaurants with a bar, and third, restaurants with a strong wine list.

This is an update of my earlier posting: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)

Picture: Hotel Dieu in Beaune

Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours

I have been to Beaune many times over a span of several decades. When my wife Annette Schiller decided to include a Bourgogne wine tour in her portfolio of the ombiasy wine tours, I started to visit Beaune more frequently.

For an overview of this year's Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

The next Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours is scheduled for May 25 to June 4, 2017.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller in Beaune

Wine Bars

Le But du Monde

7 rue Faubourg Madeleine

New wine bar in Beaune. Probably the best wine bar in Beaune currently. Impressive wine list. Owned and run by Fabienne Escoffier, who, with her ex-husband Pierre Escoffier used to own and run Ma Cuisine (see below).

Trip advisor: Super bon moment pour une dégustation de Bourgogne par deux bordelais ! Accueil, cadre, ambiance, musique parfaits, sans parler des vins merveilleux et de l'assiette de charcuterie fromages très copieuse et très bonne. Parfait, ne changez rien.

Pictures: Le But du Monde with Annette Schiller and Fabienne Escoffier

Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

2 Place Ziem

A very small and intimate place. Cosy. Limited, but very interesting list of wines.

Belle sélection de vins nature de toutes régions et de plus classiques mais non moins jolies cuvées bourguignonnes, le tout servi par l'ancien tebancier du Square, Alex, un garçon jovial et connaisseur dans un endroit plutôt exigu mais chaleureux ! Impatient d'y retourner avec mes comparses !

Picture: Owner Alex Meuriot

Pictures: At Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem with Winemaker/ Owner Andrew Nielson of Le Grappin, a Cult Wine

Pictures: Owner Alex Meuriot and Vincent Boyer of Domaine Boyer-Martenot in Meursault, and Rachid Agag, Les Ventes d'Anges in Belgium (Domaine Boyer-Martenot Importer)

Picture: Le Bistrot du Coin Place Ziem

La Dilettante

11 Rue du Faubourg Bretonnière

Jameson Fink: I can think of no place more charming and laid-back than La Dilettante in Beaune, especially when you have a free and leisurely afternoon available. Simple chalkboard menus for wine and food. Who can resist a 2010 Lafon Macon-Uchizy for 5 euros? Your savory food selections consist of an assortment of meats and cheeses, a salad, and a soup.

Linda Watkins:La Dilettante (+33 3 80 21 48 59), with its cosy ‘bodega’ ambience, is the latest venture by ‘Lolo’, formerly of the much-lauded Caves Madeleine bistro. Wines include hard-to-find gems from all over France, complemented by organic food.

Pictures: At La Dilletante with Owner Lauren Brelin

Les Vins de Maurice

8 rue Fraisse

Maurice is a champion of natural wine. A very intimate wine bar. There is also a wine store and there are 4 large guest rooms.

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane: Les Vins de Maurice has become a gathering place for lovers of natural wine in Beaune, the strategically-placed town in the centre of Burgundy. We first heard about it from Alice Feiring, who in turn had learned about it from Fanny Sabre, the young Burgundian winemaker.

The wine list has been put together by Maurice, the owner, and it is an extensive selection from many parts of France, with particular strength in Burgundian cuvees.

You can select a bottle from the cave and they will open it for a modest surcharge on takeaway prices. You can then order from the short selection of dishes which include excellent charcuterie and cheeses but also beautifully made savoury and sweet tarts.

Pictures: At La Maison de Maurice with Maurice Marle

Les Mille et une Vignes

61 Rue de Lorraine, 21200 Beaune, France
Closed Sunday and Monday, Open Tuesday-Saturday from 11:00am-2:00am

Trip Advisor: I don’t know if “quaint” is the right word for it, probably “quirky” is more appropriate, but if you want a quick drink it is perfect. This is not a classy place, by any means, but the staff (one very nice your lady who spoke good English) is very accommodating and works hard. The atmosphere is naughty nautical? Clotheslines inside with ladies underwear hanging off it, one big picnic table for enjoying your wine communally. It was fun, it was comfortable, it was small, but has an outdoor patio.

Trip Advisor: Voilà une bonne adresse à Beaune pour boire un coup. Un bon choix de vins à bon prix, y a moyen de grignoter un bout. Une ambiance chaleureuse et familiale. Fiesta assurée, surtout lors de la vente des vins en novembre.

Pictures: Les Mille et une Vignons and Owner/ General Manager Marine Sevestre

Bistros/ Brasseries/ Restaurants with Bar Area

Le Bar du Square

26 Boulevard Maréchal Foch

Le Bar du Square used to be a winebar, but has recently changed its approach and has become more a restaurant/ brasserie

Picture: Table du Square

Not drinking poison in Paris (February 2012): If I still entertain ideas about residing in Beaune someday, it's largely due to a very memorable nightcap my friend J and I shared with winemaker Axelle Machard de Gramont and her friend E at Bar du Square, an unassuming bar du coin that early last year came under the proprietorship of the lively and well-connected Romain Escoffier, son of the owners of nearby bistro-legend Ma Cuisine. Perhaps semi-inadvertently, he's created the most sophisticated bar concept I've ever encountered, an establishment that would be the toast of Paris or New York or London, were wine supply channels ever to change to allow its successful replication in those cities.

Un petit bar à vin très sympa, idéal pour partager un moment avec des amis, mais aussi rencontrer de nouvelles têtes. Un lieu convivial où le patron, Romain, sait mettre l'ambiance ! Il change sa carte de vins très souvent et on aime se poser à une des tables pour refaire le monde. Spécialisé en vins, certes, mais on y trouve aussi d'autres alcools, dont des spiritueux ou bières. Cognacs à la demande, petit lieu très chaleureux pour boire un verre.

Pictures: At Le Bar/ Table du Square

Le Bistrot Bourguignon

8 rue Monge

Linda Watkins: In Beaune, the town’s oldest wine bar, Le Bistro Bourguignon (+33 3 80 22 23 24), is a bustling bohemian affair that features more than 20 wines by the glass.

Burgundyeye: The Bistrot Bourguignon is open at lunchtimes and in the evenings from Tuesday to Saturday and has a large range of wines available, either by the glass or by the bottle. Jean-Jacques Hegner offers a selection of some of the best domaine names from Burgundy and elsewhere of which about 20 by the glass from Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côtes de Nuits and Mâcon. The wines sold by the glass are constantly evolving. Chef Benoît Roux offers a delicious, traditional and regional cuisine influenced by new flavours to tempt and excite your taste buds.

Pictures: Bistrot Bourguignon

Brasserie Le Carnot

18 Rue Carnot

Traditional French brasserie, next to Le Bistrot Bourguignon. Open 7 days a week from morning to midnight.

Pictures: At Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune with Owner Denise Marabito

Maison du Colombier

1 Rue Charles Cloutier

Linda Watkins: Having sold his Michelin-starred restaurant Le Jardin des Remparts, Roland Chanliaud is now the owner and chef of Maison du Colombier ‘gastro-bar’, where patrons can explore his epic wine list on a terrace facing the lovely Notre Dame basilica.

According to Bernd Klingenbrunn , wine retailer in Frankfurt, Germany, Maison du Colombier has the best wine list in Beaune. Peter Wasserman agrees: Le Colombier IS the best wine bar in Beaune with THE best list hands down.

Picture: Maison du Colombier

Wine-centered Restaurants

Ma Cuisine

Passage St Helene

Not drinking poison in Paris: With its heartbreakingly long wine list, its brisk service, its richly satisfying menu, Ma Cuisine succeeds by any standard. Only later was I to understand that the restaurant's success stands out yet further in Beaune, where curiously enough there are not many good restaurants. Ma Cuisine accordingly is sort of the lifeblood of the town. Every Burgundy winemaker, importer, major collector and retailer passes through the dining room a few times a year, it seems.

Justburgundy.com: It is invariably busy and being small this means a bustling atmosphere rather than sedate calm. It is also usually full, so booking is advisable. Just off one of the main squares, under an archway and down a small side-street, you will find this small family run restaurant of one large room with some 20 tables. The food is varied and excellent and the wine list is extensive. It only opens four days a week, being closed on Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday. As the owner explained to us, he enjoys doing other things too!

Pictures: Ma Cuisine

Caves Madeleine

6 rue Faubourg Madeleine

Opposite of Au But du Monde.

Wall Street Journal: … It's a cozy, unpretentious place that looks a lot like many other small bistros in France, with two crucial distinctions: its wine selection and its proprietor, Laurent Brelin, aka "Lolo," who looks like a taller, more-handsome Jack Black.... There is no actual wine list; diners simply look over the bottles on the shelves and hand their selections to Lolo. The wines—and the prices—are nothing short of remarkable, as with the 2008 François Raveneau Valmur Chablis for a mere €73 (about $98), plus a €6 corkage charge. There were red Burgundies from great producers like Frédéric Mugnier, Méo-Camuzet and Marquis d'Angerville at equally reasonable prices … … Alison, in turn, was much impressed by the food, which was simple and unpretentious but very good (roasted cod, ravioli, leeks vinaigrette). The wine, meanwhile, was stunning—not to mention the best wine deal of my dining life. "I don't want to eat anywhere else," Alison said when dinner was over. "And I don't want to drink anywhere else," I replied.

Peter Wasserman commented on Facebook after I had released the posting: Lolo has not owned or operated the Caves Madeleine for 3 years. The food is amazing and the wine list very good.

Pictures: Caves Madeleine

L’Oiseau de Vignes

31 Rue Maufoux

Loiseau des Vignes is a restaurant in the heart of the capital of wine tourism which offers an entire list of rare wines by the glass.

These 70 white and red wines are mainly Burgundy labels selected by Eric Goettelman, the Loiseau Group’s executive head sommelier: ‘The wine list features both young hopefuls and also established wines. We have also selected some attractive wines from wine merchants Jadot, Drouhin, Bichot, Bouchard… However, the real surprise is that we can supply, when available, famous wines which cannot normally be found. Wines produced by people like Jean-François Coche-Dury, Bonneau du Martray, Comtes Lafon, Domaine Raveneau, to mention but a few. This unique selection means that anyone can sample a rare wine or simply taste new wines. The price per glass ranges from 5 € to 45 €.

Loiseau des Vignes uses the Enomatic® system, an item of cutting-edge equipment which allows very fine vintages to be served by the glass, in the best conditions at the appropriate temperature, preserving all their qualities.

Pictures: Loiseau des Vignes

Auberge Bourguignonne

4 place Madeleine

A a traditional restaurant that serves classic French food. And: It is open on Sundays.

Trip advisor: What takes Auberge Bourguignonne from 3 to 4 stars is the cheese course. The best in the city! Unlike any other restaurant, they wheel over a giant board of cheeses, ranging in ages, flavors and consistencies, and ask "what would you like".

They also have a little lounge area where you can just have a glass of wine.

Pictures: Auberge Bourguignonne

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar 

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims


Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller in the Hambaccher Hamm, Mittelrhein. See: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Dear wine friends,

it is only half time of the year 2016. The three spring tours 2016 (Burgundy, Germany North, Germany East) were fabulous and I tremendously enjoyed travelling and tasting top notch wines with my fellow wine aficionados. The fall tours (Germany South, Bordeaux) are booked up. I am now scheduling the tours for the year 2017 and I would like to give you the heads-up on the exact dates for you to have ample time to plan your travels.

GERMANY TOURS 2017

Spring

Germany East, Wine, Art, Culture, History: June 9 - June 18

During this tour we have 4 concert, opera, ballet performances: June 10, Gewandhaus Leipzig with the full Gewandhaus Orchestra; June 11, Semperoper Dresden, The Abduction from the Seraglio, June 15, Mozart Festival Würzburg, June 17, Ballet Stuttgart, Romeo and Juliet). Tickets already get scarce and I have to buy tickets asap. Please let me know your interest in this tour soon for me to get enough tickets and good seats.

Germany North, Quintessential Riesling and the northernmost Pinot Noir: June 19 - June 25

Fall

Germany South - Alsace, the culinary south, Germany’s Pinot Noir country: September 3 - September 9

FRANCE TOURS 2017 

Spring

Burgundy - Champagne: May 25 - June 4

Fall

Bordeaux: September 12 - September 21

The exact schedules, winery visits, restaurants, sightseeing tours, etc. are not yet finalized for the 2017 tours. The schedule you find on my website is the one of the 2016 tours, but that gives you a good idea about what we are doing on those tours. Please check my website for updates.

Looking forward to travelling with many of you in 2017,

CHEERS from Charleston, SC, where our little grandson Ernest was born four weeks ago.

Annette

p.s. For impressions from the previous tours to Germany (Germany-East, Germany-North and Germany-South with Alsace) and to France (Bourgogne and Bordeaux), see:

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France 

ombiasy WineTours 2015: Bourgogne, Germany-East Wine and Art, Germany-South, Germany-North and Bordeaux - All Postings

Vineyard Visit and Wine Tasting Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Vineyard Walk with Matthias Hey, Weingut Hey

The stars of the Saale-Unstrut Wine Region are Weingut Lützkendorf and Weingut Pawis, both members of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers. Closely behind them is a group of up-and-coming winemakers. One of them, perhaps the one which is most likely to be the next member of the VDP in the Saale-Unstrut Region, is Weingut Hey.

Picture: Weingut Hey in Naumburg

Owner/ winemaker Matthias Hey was our host. He took us on a vineyard walk and joint us for a wine pairing lunch at the winery.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Matthias Hey

Weingut Hey

It all started in 2001, well after German reunification when Sigrun and Reinhard Hey bought a once exquisite vineyard in the steep slope site “Naumburger Steinmeister” including the farmhouse at the foot of the vineyard. With dedication the totally overgrown vineyard was reclaimed by removing blackberry bushes that had almost suffocated 80 year old vines, rebuilding the terraces, and planting new vines.

Picture: Vineyard Walk with Matthias Hey

Today, Weingut Hey is at 5 hectares in the Naumburger Steinmeister and Naumburger Sonneck vineyards.
Son Matthias, who graduated from the enological university in Geisenheim in 2008, is now at the helm and puts the emphasis on top quality and the uniqueness of the region.

Weingut Hey is also member of the “Breitengrad 51”, an association of young winemakers of the Saale-Unstrut region. Their aim is to produce Saale-Unstrut Rieslings of world-class quality and to put the region on the map as top wine producing cultural heritage destination.

Grape varieties: Müller-Thurgau, Gutedel, Silvaner, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauer Zweigelt, Spätburgunder, Portugieser.

Picture: Wine Tasting lunch with Matthias Hey

Wine Lunch

2015 Weingut Hey Weissburgunder trocken Gutswein
2015 Weingut Hey Weissburgunder trocken Ortswein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling trocken Gutswein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling Buntsandstein trocken Ortswein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling Muschelkalk trocken Ortswein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling trocken, Steinmeister, Lagenwein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken, Steinmeister, Lagenwein
2015 Weingut Hey Riesling Beerenauslese süss, Steinmeister, Lagenwein
2015 Weingut Hey Weisse Cuvee trocken, Steinmeister, Breitengrad 51


Bye-bye

Thanks for a wonderful vineyard walk and wine tasting luncheon.

Picture: Bye-bye

Postings: Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Vinyard Walk and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hey in Naumburg, Saale-Unstrut, with Matthias Hey

Tasting at Weingut Pawis in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz, Saale-Unstrut, with Marcus Pawis

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Wine and Music: Lunch with Gottfried Herrlich at Restaurant Vincenz Richter in Meissen

Visit, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe in Zadel, Sachsen, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Tasting at Weingut Tim Strasser/Rothes Gut in Meissen, Sachsen, with Tim Strasser

Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Drei Herren in Radebeul, Sachsen

Visit of Weingut Klaus Zimmerling: The Wines of Klaus Zimmerling and the Art of his Wife Malgorzata Chodakoska - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Weingut Lutz Müller, Schloss Albrechtsburg, Sachsen, with Lutz Müller

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Zur Schwane in Volkach, Franken with Winemaker Christian Kallisch

Vinyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Horst Sauer in Eschendorf, Franken, with Horst Sauer

Vineyard tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder in Randersacker, Franken, with Martin Johann Schmitt

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Staatlicher Hofkeller in Würzburg, Franken, with General Manager Marcel von den Benken

Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour, Lunch and Tasting at Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Öhringen in Öhringen–Verrenberg,Württemberg with Winemaker Joachim Brand

Visit of Staatsweingut Weinsberg in Weinsberg, Württemberg, with Kyle Frank from the Finger Lakes

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder in Schozach, Württemberg, with Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder 

Summer of Riesling. All Summer. All German. – 3 German Rieslings from Tesch, JJ Prüm and Leitz at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York and Germany-North 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

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Pictures: 2016 Summer of Riesling Flight at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City. See also: Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

Unter the heading “Summer of Riesling. All Summer. All German.” a number of restaurants and wine bars across the USA are offering German Riesling, from June 20 to the end of August, 2016. The 2016 campaign is organized by Wines of Germany in the USA (German Wine Institut).

One of the wine bars that is participating is Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City, the hipp wine bar of Aldo Sohm, just around Le Bernadin, where Aldo Sohm is the Head Sommelier. He offers 3 Rieslings from 3 German world class producers, Weingut Tesch, Weingut JJ Prüm and Weingut Leitz. Interestingly, we visited all three of them on the Germany-North 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours earlier this year. Annette was so thrilled to see these three producers who she had selected for this year’s Germany-North tour featuring so prominently on one of the best wine lists in the USA!

Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City

Aldo Sohm Wine Bar: Located in midtown and inspired by each city block, Aldo Sohm Wine Bar embodies the energy of New York with the laid back atmosphere of Aldo’s own living room. Designed with wine director Aldo’s relaxed approach to good food and wine in mind, we invite you to drink, eat, share, relax and enjoy.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian Schiller at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar during the Rieslingfeier 2016 in New York City, USA. See also: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2016, USA

Picture: Sommelier Aldo Sohm and Christian Schiller at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York City, USA. See also: A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Germany-North 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

We spent 7 days (Thursday, May 05, 2016 – Wednesday, May 11, 2016) touring 5 wine German regions (Rheingau, Mittelrhein, Ahr, Mosel and Nahe), tasting fabulous wines, meeting world-renowned wine makers, visiting a top notch Sekt house, and delving deep into German history and culture.

On the Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, we visited a total of 17 wineries in 5 different wine regions: Rheingau, the jewel in the crown, with its perfect, fuller bodied, racy Rieslings; Mittelrhein where the Rieslings grow on the steep slopes of the fortress- and castle-ribboned banks of the Rhine river; Ahr with its sun collecting canyons perfect for the finicky Pinot Noir grape; Mosel with its dizzying steep vineyards and famous elegant Rieslings; Nahe and its serene, peaceful valley where perfect harmonious wines reflect their roots.

Annette Schiller: Our way of traveling allows wine lovers to fully experience authentic Germany. Drawing on our love and deep knowledge of Germany and close personal ties to many personalities in the wine scene, our small group visits many of the hidden gems that other tours pass by, but which are essential to comprehend what German wine is all about.

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim

Johannes Leitz was our host. He gave us a spectacular vineyard tour and showed us his new production facility. New Managing Director Markus Röll led the tasting.

See also: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

The Leitz Family’s viticulture history goes back to 1744 and has been passed on from one generation to the next for almost four centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, the winery had 7.5 acres of vineyards and was unknown among German wine connoisseurs. Under the leadership of Johannes “Josi” Leitz, the winery grew in size to 100 acres, and he pursued quality in an uncompromising manner. 99% of his vineyards are planted with Riesling. He was able to acquire top Riesling sites in the famous Rüdesheimer Berg (= mountain) vineyards - Berg Schloßberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rotland, on the mountain above Rüdesheim facing the south. Unusual for a German winery, Josi exports 90% of his wines, with the US being the most important market.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim with Johannes Leitz

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel


Amrei Prüm was our host.

See also: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

The contrast cannot be bigger between our previous winery visits and a visit to this world-famous estate on the banks of the Mosel River. At the J.J. Prüm winery all wines are Rieslings and all are sweet. The wines are of great aristocracy, and are renowned for their precision, focus, finesse, and legendary ageing potential, regardless of the way how they achieved their level of sweetness (by chaptalizing or adding sweet reserve or through noble rot). Viticulture traditions in the Prüm family go back to the 17th century, although the J. J. Prüm estate as we know it today, only came into being in 1911 when the property was divided up between seven heirs. Third generation Dr. Manfred Prüm, is the winemaker and owns the estate together with his brother Wolfgang Prüm and his daughter, fourth generation Dr. Katharina Prüm. To describe what winemaking in the Mosel region means, I like to second what Katharina once said: “The Mosel region boasts the coolest climate for wines in the entire Europe, which has both its advantages and disadvantages. Riesling grapes have a longer maturation time on the vines, resulting in more natural acidity and freshness but it’s also harder to achieve ripeness”.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Amrei Prüm

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe: Riesling and Rock 'N' Roll.

Martin Tesch was our host.

See also: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

The Tesch winery exists since 1723 and is founding member of the VDP Nahe. Dr. Martin Tesch, a PhD microbiologist, took over the winery in 1996 and has presided over fundamental changes both in the vineyard and the wine cellar as well as in the marketing of the Tesch wines. He streamlined the portfolio and only three varietals were left for cultivation, Riesling, Pinot-Blanc, and Pinot-Noir, with Riesling accounting for 85% of the vines. He only produces bone-dry wines and has moved to natural and non-interventionist winemaking and strict yield control of between 20-30 hl/ha. The harvest is manual and he picks the grapes at full ripeness, but avoids botrytis. Martin’s signature wine is “Riesling Unplugged”, reflecting the recorded “unplugged” albums for the MTV unplugged CD series: creating wine or music with as much authenticity as possible. Last year Martin left the VDP because of a dispute over the new VDP classification.

Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe: Riesling and Rock 'N' Roll, with Martin Tesch

Summer of Riesling

The Summer of Riesling Campaign is the brainchild of New York Riesling Guru Paul Grieco. The first Summer of Riesling took place in 2008. The Summer of Riesling Campaign in 2014 was the final chapter, according to the Summer of Riesling website.

See also: Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Christian Schiller, Annette Schiller and Sommelier Paul Grieco (Terroir, Summer of Riesling) at the 2015 Rieslingfeier in New York City, USA

This year, the Summer of Riesling is back: “Summer of Riesling Returns! It’s All German, All Summer. Wines of Germany is giving wine lovers nationwide the opportunity to celebrate their love of Riesling. Restaurants and wine shops across the country will be offering by-the-glass specials and tastings beginning the first day of summer (June 20) through the end of August.

Picture: Summer of Riesling. All German. All Summer.

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller

Annette and I will have our traditional Riesling BYOB Party on August 14th at the Schiller Residence in the Washington DC/ Northern Virginia area. You are invited!

Picture: Annette and Christian Schiller Ready for the Guests at their 2015 Annual Riesling Party. See also: Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2015)

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Tour and Tasting at Weingut von Oetinger, Rheingau, with Achim von Oetinger– Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch and Tour: Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau – Germany-North 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Chat Sauvage in Johannisberg, Rheingau, with Winemaker Michael Städter

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau, with Bernd and Ralph Schönleber

Vineyard tour, Cellar tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut August Kesseler in Assmanshausen, with Winemaker Simon Batarseh

Cruise on the Rhine River from Lorch to Boppard

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Müller in Spay, Mittelrhein, with Matthias Müller and son Johannes Müller

Visit and Tasting at Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoss in Mayschoss, Ahr

Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr with Owners/ Winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten

Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel

Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Frau Prüm

The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Schloss Lieser in Lieser, Mosel, with Thomas Haag

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken in Saarburg, Saar with Hanno Zilliken

Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe: Remembering Klaus Peter Wodartz' Ente in Wiesbaden

Tasting at Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich in Bockenau, Nahe

Dinner with Wine Pairing at the new Wine Tavern of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Bingen, Rheinhessen, with Stefan Rumpf

Tasting at Weingut Tesch in Langenlonsheim, Nahe, with Martin Tesch

Cellar Tour and Wine Pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Announcement: 5 Exciting ombiasy WineTours in 2016 - BURGUNDY BORDEAUX GERMANY

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA

A German Riesling Feast in New York City: Rieslingfeier 2015, USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2015)

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France

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Picture: Christian Schiller in Chablis

Possibilities to drink wine – in order to buy wine, to drink a glass or two in a wine bar or to have a bottle in a restaurant during a meal – are more limited in the village of Chablis than I thought before visiting Chablis. But Chablis-Village is small with a popuation of only less than 3000.

Here is the outcome of my research. The lists includes (1) restaurants with strong wine lists, (2) wine bars and (3) wine tasting facilities.

Chablis

Chablis is part of the Bourgogne wine region, but wines from Chablis are usually referred to by their own name. Chablis is halfway between Paris and Beaune. The medieval village of Chablis is at the center of the Chablis wine region. Of course, the wines from the region dominate the wine lists of Chablis, but you also find a large selection of other wines from the Bourgogne. See also: Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Pictures: Chablis-Village

Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours

I have been to Chablis a few times, always related the Bourgogne Tours by ombiasy WineTours, run by my wife Annette Schiller.

For an overview of this year's Bourgogne and Champagne Tour by ombiasy WineTours, see: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

The next Burgundy (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours is scheduled for May 25 to June 4, 2017.

Pictures: Wine Pairing Lunch, Vineyard Walk, Cellar Visit, and Tasting at Domaine Jean-­Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis, with Jean-Marc Brocard. See: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Hostellerie des Clos

Hostellerie des Clos is the best restaurant in town. In my view, it is at the level of 1 star Michelin, but does not have a star, although it used to have one. The wine list is impressive.

Clive Coates (My Favorite Burgundies, 2013): For those travelling in the region: The Hostellerie des Clos has always been the place to stay. One Michelin star food and simple but perfectly adequate and modestly priced bedrooms. I dined there twice on my recent visit. The food was even finer than I have found it to be in the past. Bravo to Mr. Vignaud and his team.

Pictures: Dinner at Hostellerie des Clos. See: Dinner at the Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis (Chef: Michel Vignaud), France

Trip Adviser: Return the Star - Michel Vignaud used to have one Michelin star when he ran the restaurant a few years back. He then turned over the restaurant to become manager of the hotel, and the restaurant lost its star. Michel Vignaud is back in the kitchen, and the dinner showed it. The depth of the wine cellar and fair pricing is staggering. We have been to this hotel and restaurant 12 times. Our tables have ranged in size from three to 12 guests. We always have great meals, superb wines, and great service. Our last visit included 8 folks that had a wide range of menu items. Everyone was totally pleased with everything that was served. At the end of the meal, the chef came out and visited. He remembered us from earlier visits and told us that hotel was going to be renovated soon. We will always make an effort to stay and eat at this place whenever we are near Chablis.

Fil de Zinq

Fil de Zinq is the other top restaurant in town, but a step below Hostellerie des Clos. Fil de Zinq has arguably the best wine list in town. In addition, it has a bar area, where you can sit at the counter and just have a glass of wine.

Lefooding.com: A wine cellar that’s overflowing with Chablis (Fèvre, Raveneau, Dauvissat, Drouhin, De Moor…), Irancy (Richoux, Quentin…), Auxerre (Goisot, Morin) and other Burgundy wines, ranging from €20 a bottle to €1,300 for a 2008 Romanée-Conti Richebourg. This big dining room with stonewalls, whitewashed rafters and a central bar that spans the Serein River, is run by a young but experienced team: Ryo Nagahama, who used to work for Robuchon and Alléno, takes care of the savory dishes; Vanessa Chang, a former pastry chef at Pierre Hermé, does the desserts; and Fabien Espana works the room. They pull off some very nice highs, along with a few lows: the appetizers were good (egg, shrimp, peas or asparagus, parmesan and bulgur), the main courses less so (Clavisy lamb, carrots and romanesco cabbage or duck, lemons and young garlic, which was overcooked), but the desserts made up for that (praline and caramel millefeuille, or chocolate slivers, vanilla cream and berries). Wines by the glass €4-9. Formula €27-32, set menu €53. // M.L

Michelin Guide: A Japanese chef who has worked at Robuchon and Alléno, and an excellent pastry chef (his wife): from starter to dessert, the duo hit the spot with their professionalism. It has a neo-bistro cooking style, creative use of ingredients, and panache! Local wines take pride of place, and the charming setting is an old mill spanning the river. Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking.

Pictures: At Fil de Zinq with Fabien Espana

Bar Chablis

A simple café/ brasserie where the locals hang out.

Trip advisor: First came here 15 years ago and have been coming back every other year. The place has hardly changed and it still feels the same. The best thing is to sit on the terrace, order a nice glass (or two) of Chablis premier cru, have a little snack and look around... Life can be so simple! Food wise the place is not special, it's really the bar (and thereby the Chablis) it's all about. And that's how it should be.

Picture: Chablis Bar

Bistro des Grand Crus

Just down the road of the Hostellerie des Clos. It is a fine bistro, operated by the people of the Hostellerie des Clos.

Saveur: This is the place to sample simple, old-fashioned, bistro-style Burgundian classics like oeufs en meurette or escargots de Bourgogne, especially when paired with a well-priced bottle of chablis by Vincent Dauvissat. 10 rue Jules Rathier

Picture: Bistro des Grand Crus

S. Charles

S. Charles is the best tasting room in town. It is mainly a wine store, but you can taste the wines (if you want to buy) or taste and pay for them if you do not want to buy. S. Charles closes at 6 pm.

Lonely Planet: English-speaking owners Arnaud and Guillaume run this combination wine shop, tasting room and self-proclaimed oenobistro, where you can enjoy 3cl sampler glasses (€1.25 to €4.75) or full 12cl glasses (€5 to €19) of Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines accompanied by local cheeses, charcuterie, snails and other snacks (€5 to €15) .

Pictures: At S. Chablis with Owner Arnaud Valour

Tasting Room of Albert Bichet

A number of Chablis producers have tasting rooms in Chablis. I like the one of Albert Bichet, but the tasting room of Jean Marc Brocard and the tasting room of William Fevre (next to the Hostellerie des Clos) are also recommended. See also: Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

Pictures: Château Long-Depaquit of Maison Albert Bichot

Schiller’ Favorites

Here is a complete list of Schiller's Favorites:

Europe

Germany

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Würzburg, Franken, Germany
Schiller’s Favorites: 2 Legendary Wine Taverns in Würzburg – Juliusspital and Bürgerspital
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and Wine Taverns in Freiburg, Baden, Germany
Schiller's Favorites: Frankfurt Apple Wine Taverns that Make their own Apple Wine
Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne, France (2015)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France, 2014
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Austin, Texas, USA
Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar 

Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France

Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-­au-­Mont­ d’Or

In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully ­Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié­ Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot­-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Owner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot

Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey­ Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier

Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes

Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny­ Montrachet

Visit of the Hospice de Beaune

Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune

Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny ­lès­ Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel

Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-­Saint­-George, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux­-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier

Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-­Saint-­George

Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger­-Belair in Nuits­-Saint­-George with Thibault Liger-­Belair

Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot

Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey­-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon

An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey­-Chambertin

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne­-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion

Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard

Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean­ Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Spots in Chablis

Champagne– An Introduction, France

French Champagne Houses and German Roots 

Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé­ sur ­Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen

Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne

Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Chef Bart M. Vandaele Celebrated the 2 Year Anniversary of his B Too Restaurant with the Wines of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard from Chablis, USA/France 



Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2016: Germany's Best 2015 Riesling Kabinett Wines

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Picture: Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2016: Germany's top 3 2015 Riesling Kabinett Wines (Photo: Facebook)

The BerlinKabinettCup 2016 took place in Berlin, Germany, a few weeks ago, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 43 German Riesling Kabinett 2015 wines were included and ranked in the tasting. 2/3 of the wines came from the Mosel Saar Ruwer area. The wines were blind-tasted by 9 wine experts, including David Schildknecht.

Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups

Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup. The BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewächs) Rieslings from Grosse Lage vineyards. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewächs wines of the previous year.

In the following years, he added 3 other Berlin Cups: The BerlinGutsrieslingCup, which reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings. The BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. Finally, the BerlinSpätburgunderCup, a ranking of German Pinot Noirs.

Thus, there are now 4 BerlinCups: BerlinRieslingCup, BerlinGutsRieslingCup, BerlinKabinettCup and BerlinSpätburgunderCup. See more below.

Pictures: Tasting with Max von Kunow, Weingut von Hövel, see: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

What is a Kabinett?

What is a Kabinett? That depends.

In the framework of the standard classification of German wine (the Law of 1971), a Kabinett is defined by the sugar content of the grapes at harvest. It is a wine made from grapes harvested with a sugar content of 67 to 87 degrees Öchsle that was not chaptalized. Such a wine can be fully fermented and become dry. These are the Kabinett Trocken wines.

Alternatively, the winemaker could stop the fermentation so that natural sugar remains in the finished wine (and perhaps add a bit of sterilized juice – Süssreserve) to produce a wine that is fruity-sweet.

Depending on the ripeness of the grapes (i.e. the sugar content at harvest) and the timing of the winemaker for stopping the fermentation (early or late during the fermentation process), fruity-sweet Kabinett wines can range from lightly-sweet (halbtrocken, feinherb) to fully-sweet. The law of 1971 does not define any limits for the sweetness of a Kabinett wine and thus you find a wide sweetness range in the market. What they all have in common is that they are rather light wines, with a low alcohol level, made with grapes that were picked early in the harvest.

Pictures: Tasting with Thomas Haag, Schloss Lieser, see: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

The VDP producers have introduced a new classification, very much based on the Burgundian approach. In their new classification, Kabinett no longer stands for a certain ripeness of the grapes at harvest, but stands for a certain sweetness level of the wine in the bottle.

For the VDP producers, Kabinett is an indication of a certain sweetness profile. Only wines that have a certain sweetness in the finished wine can be sold as Kabinett. Kabinett Trocken does not exist for VDP producers (although some VDP members still produce Kabinett trocken during a transition period). With a few exceptions, all the wines sold as Kabinett are fruity-sweet and in in a certain sweetness range. Auslese is sweeter than Spätlese and Spätlese sweeter than Kabinett. The terms “Halbtrocken” and “Feinherb” have become redundant in the VDP classification system.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller and Clemens Busch in Washington DC, see: Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

The wines in the BerlinKabinettCup 2016 were all wines where the fermentation was interrupted to generate a wine “that dances” as Stephen Rheinhardt put it in the Süddeutschen Zeitung: A low alcohol wine with some remaining sweetness, no Trocken Kabinetts.

Martin Zwick: I made this "BerlinKabinettCup" not because of another Cup, not because of ranking, not because of scores. The true star is the KABINETT. Here in Germany Kabinett was heavily overlooked in the last years, as most people drank trocken, trocken, trocken. My "BerlinKabinettCup" created awareness in Germany for Kabinett and now the people buy more Kabinett. That´s all about.


Winner: Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, Mosel

Fina and Rare: Critics are tentatively suggesting that Germany 2015 is “epic” and the “vintage of the century”. In Jancis Robinson’s words: “What wonderful 2015s Germany has produced!” And now they have started to arrive…

Picture: 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Max Ferd. Richter (Photo: Facebook)

Having followed this wine for the last five vintages, we are excited to offer Max Ferd. Richter’s stunning Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2015 at £99 per case of 12 bottles in bond. Although critics are yet to score it, in forums published on Wine Pages and Wine Berserkers German wine expert Martin Zwick has flagged it as a: “strong contender for ‘Kabinett of the Year’” and “one of the discoveries of the year.” It looks as if his prediction was correct as this wine won the BerlinKabinettCup (attended by David Schildknecht of Wine Advocate). Having recently tried it in the offce, we can confirm that it very much lives up to the praise.

Only 900 cases are produced, the majority of which are sold in Germany and the US, but FINE+RARE have exclusively secured the allocation for the UK market. The precipitous and craggy Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is a veritable who’s who of German wine, being home to Joh Jos Prum, Dr Loosen, Markus Molitor and Max Ferd. Richter to name just a few. It produces some of the Mosel’s finest wines and the 2015s from here look set to be unmissable (two of the Top 3 in the BerlinKabinettCup hail from this vineyard).

Lars Carlberg (one of the tasters): The winner of the tasting was the 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett from Max Ferd. Richter. This happened to be Martin's top contender to win the Cup and one of his favorite wines in recent months, so it was only fitting that it unfolded this way. Martin, who was grinning during the flight, later confirmed that Max Ferd. Richter produced from 1.5 hectares in Wehlener Sonnenuhr almost 10,000 bottles of this wine, or the equivalent of 8 Fuder. Congratulations to Constantin Richter! I've yet to taste his other 2015s. For those curious about the numbers of the 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett: 82 degrees Oechsle, 45.9 grams per liter residual sugar, 9.9 per mil acidity, and 7.5 percent alcohol.

Runner-up: Saar Riesling Kabinett, von Hövel, Saar

Lars Carlberg: The second-place wine was von Hövel's 2015 Saar Riesling Kabinett. Max von Kunow wrote that his Estate Riesling Kabinett, which placed higher than his 2015 Scharzhofberger Kabinett, comes from "long-forgotten grand cru sites of the Saar." He signed a long-term lease for the following vineyards in Konzer Tälchen (the little valley of Konz): Oberemenniger Euchariusberg, Krettnacher Katzenbuckel, Krettnacher Altenberg (including Silberberg), Oberemmeler Karlsberg, and Niedermenniger Sonnenberg. The average yield was 55 hl/ha and the average ripeness was 86 degrees Oechsle. After fermentation, the wine was racked from the lees and blended in a 20,000-liter tank. He has 26,000 bottles of this wine. I couldn't believe it really placed second, though.

Ranking

1. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Max Ferd. Richter
2. Saar Riesling Kabinett, von Hövel
3. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Schloss Lieser
4. Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, Reinhold Haart
5. Scharzhofberger Kabinett, Egon Müller (AP Nr. 2)

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2016: Germany's Top 5 2015 Riesling Kabinett Wines (Photo: Facebook)

6. Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett, Hofgut Falkenstein (AP Nr. 12)
7. Burg Layener Schlossberg Kabinett, Diel
8. Wolfger Goldgrube Kabinett, Vollenweider
9. Kanzemer Altenberg Kabinett, von Othegraven
10. Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett, Willi Schaefer
11. Pündericher Marienburg Kabinett, Clemens Busch
12. Saarburger Rausch Kabinett, Zilliken
13. Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett, Karthäuserhof
14. Schloss Reichartshausen Kabinett, Balthasar-Ress
15. Bockenauer Felseneck Kabinett, Schäfer-Fröhlich
16. Monzinger Kabinett, Emrich-Schönleber
17. Scharzhofberger Kabinett, von Hövel
18. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, Dr. Loosen
19. Trittenheimer Apotheke Kabinett, Ansgar Clüsserath
20. Münsterer Kapellenberg Kabinett, Kruger-Rumpf
21. Bacharacher Hahn Kabinett, Toni Jost
22. Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Kabinett, von Schubert (AP Nr. 16)
23. Dhroner Hofberg Kabinett, A.J. Adam
24. Bernkasteler Doctor, Thanisch
25. KabinNett, Schätzel
26. Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett, Dr. Hermann
27. Kesten Kabinett, Meierer
28. Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Vollrads
29. Dorsheimer Goldloch Kabinett, Diel
30. Hallgartener Jungfer Kabinett, Prinz
31. Gimmeldingen Kabinett, Müller-Catoir
32. Erdener Treppchen Kabinett, Fuder 6, Dr. Hermann
33. Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Kabinett, Joh. Bapt. Schäfer
34. Jean Baptiste Kabinett, Gunderloch
35. Pündericher Marienburg Kabinett, Walter
36. Scharzhofberger Kabinett feinherb, von Kesselstadt
37. Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, Julian Haart
38. Riesling Kabinett, Brand
39. Enkircher Ellergrub Kabinett, Weiser-Künstler
40. Rutz Rebell Kabinett, von Hövel
41. Winninger Röttgen Kabinett, Knebel
42. Johannisberger Mittelhölle Kabinett, G.H. von Mumm
43. Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett, St. Urbans-Hof (seemed off)

Picture: Tasting with Hanno Zilliken, see: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Lars Carlberg’s Overall Impressions

Lars Carlberg: Charlie Gierling says: "The wines showed admittedly the slim style, which one so loves about Kabinett, but I wished they had more liveliness and tension. The wines made a serious impression. Nevertheless: buy!" He felt, as others did, that certain wines tasted too sweet and more like Auslesen. In his tasting notes, he rated the 2015 Saarburger Rausch Kabinett from Zilliken and the 2015 Maxmin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Kabinett 90 and 91 points, respectively. But he noted that they were Auslese in style. Of course, most of these "fruity-sweet" wines had Oechsle levels above 88 degrees and had more than 50 grams of unfermented sugar. In general, the 2015s have both ripeness and briskness.

On the Procedure

Lars Carlberg: Martin had opened the bottles the night before and had a second sample of each wine, just in case. The table included tasting sheets, spittoons, and a couple of Zalto Universal glasses for each guest. Martin sat at the head of the table and passed around two chilled bottles of wine per flight. After 10 Kabinetts, the scores for each bottle were noted using the 100-point system. The labels were revealed only after we tasted all the wines. The results, which left some of us scratching our heads, are based on the average score of each taster, wherein the best and worst scores of each wine were dismissed. Felix Eschenauer of Medienagenten, who was given the details of each Kabinett (ripeness, residual sugar, and acidity), arranged the flights.

The Jury

Paula Redes Sidore, wine writer and translator, Weinstory
David Schildknecht, wine critic at Vinous, The World of Fine Wine, and Wine & Spirits
Markus Budai, wine writer at Weinwisser
Lars Carlberg
Christian Schoßau, wine merchant at Weinhandlung Suff in Berlin
Karlheinz "Charlie" Gierling, Mosel wine expert, Weinlagen
Patrick Farago, "Riesling Roboter," zero dosage
Jens Bordasch, collector
Nikolai Lassmann, Riesling lover

Picture: Tasting (Photo: Martin Zwick)

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Berlin Cups)

Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2015, Germany
Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2014, Germany
Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2013, Germany
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013– Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2016: Germany's Best 2015 Riesling Kabinett Wines
Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2015: Germany's Best 2014 Riesling Kabinett Wines
Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2014, Germany
BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany

Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2013/2015
Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2012/2014
BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Germany-East Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Art, Culture and History

Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir

Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History

Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Cellar Tour, Tasting and Dinner at Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours

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Picture: Dinner with Ralf Schönleber, Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau

Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is the youngest member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers, in the Rheingau.

Picture: Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber in Östrich-Winkel, Rheingau

With the highest per capita ratio, the Germans are world champions in sparkling wine (called “Sekt” in Germany) consumption and also top Sekt producers. It was against this background that we visit a top Sekt House, which focuses on quality and produces Sekt, made only in the traditional bottle fermentation method. But Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is not only a producer of world class Sekt, but also has an impressive portfolio of still wines. In addition, the Wein- and Sektgut F.B. Schönleber is part of a larger complex, which also includes a hotel and a restaurant.

Owners/ winemakers Bernd and Ralf Schönleber were our hosts. Bernd and Ralf’s parents are operating the hotel and the restaurant.

Pictures: Bernd and Ralf Schönleber Welcoming us

While we were there, there was a big wine festival in the Rheingau Region in which Wein- and Sektgut F.B. Schönleber was participating (as was Weingut Chat Sauvage).

We started with a visit of the Sekt-producing facilities, followed by a wine tasting in the tasting room of Wein- and Sektgut F.B. Schönleber. After checking into our rooms at the hotel, we had a lovely dinner at the restaurant of Wein- and Sektgut F.B. Schönleber. Bernd, Ralf and their father joint us for part of the dinner. I had Steak Tartare.

Pictures: Dinner after the Tour and Tasting

Picture: My Dinner - Steak Tartare

Wein- und Sektgut F.B. Schönleber

The Schönleber family can trace its viticulture tradition back to the year 1783. Today, the winery is managed by winemaker brothers Bernd and Ralf Schönleber. They own 11 hectares of vineyards of which 94% are planted with Riesling and 6 % with Pinot Noir, and they produce 80,000 bottles of Riesling and 20,000 bottles of Sekt.

Pictures: Ralf Schönleber Shares with us his Secrets of Sekt-making

The quote of the GaultMillau wineguide for Germany says it all: “This is one of the most reliable wine estates of the Rheingau and it thoroughly understands how to produce top dry Rieslings and excellent sparkling wines.”

Pictures: Tasting with Ralf and Bernd Schönleber

Justin Christoph: FB Schoenleber Rheingau

The wines of Weingut F.B. Schönleber are imported in the USA by New York-based Justin Christoph.

Picture: Ralf Kaiser, Kai Schaetzel, Katharina Wechsler, Justin Christoph, Danielle King and Christian Schiller, see: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Justin Christoph: Before World War I, the best Rheingau wines had garnered the quality, price and renown of the top Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy. We were delighted to discover the small estate of FB Schoenleber gently nestled among several larger Rheingau estates resting on their laurels. In recognition of their rise in quality, FB Schoenleber was one of a handful of growers recently elevated to Germany’s VDP association of top growers. These crystalline wines combine the richness of the Rheingau with a precision usually only found in the Mosel, resulting in great purity and balance.

A rising star of the Rheingau; their wines have a linear, elegant style with all stainless steel elevage with natural yeasts. The family has been growing vines in the area of Oestrich since 1783 and with brothers Bernd and Ralph working in the winery and vineyards respectively the estate has risen to new heights. FB. Schoenleber excels at making dry wines at all different quality levels and they have embraced the new VDP quality pyramid of Gutswein(Estate), Ortswein(Village), Erste Lage(Premier Cru), and Grosse Lage(Grand Cru). Their Sekts, sparkling wines, are their special pride, and undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle with extended lees aging as well as hand riddling and hand disgorgement.

Picture. Justin Christoph and Danielle King from New York at Weinbörse 2016 in Mainz. See: 2016 VDP Trade Fair Weinbörse - Vintage 2015 - in Mainz: Schiller’s Report

2012 FB Schoenleber Riesling Sekt Extra Brut SRP $22.99

This Sekt has very fine bead of small bubbles and a beautiful nose of citrus fruits yeasty complexity from 24 months of aging on lees.The perfect wine for summer, it is a refreshing aperitif that has the stuffing to go onto dinner as well.

2014 FB Schoenleber Riesling Erbacher Trocken SRP: $24.99

2015 FB Schoenleber Riesling Trocken Liter SRP: $18.99

2012 FB Schoenleber Riesling Doosberg GG SRP: $49.99

Postings: Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)

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