schiller-wine

Picture: Christian and Annette Schiller at Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction 2015 in Washington DC

Dear wine friends,

some of you already asked: when is the Riesling party this year.

Here it is:

You are invited to join us for the

RIESLING PARTY

Saturday, August 08

5 PM - 10 PM

Entrance Fee: one bottle of Riesling per person. However if you are not such a fan of Riesling, feel free to bring a Pinot-Noir.

We will contribute some nice German Rieslings as well as a German Pinot-Noir and to quench the appetite while tasting all those wines: a selection of cheeses, cold cuts, German sausages, German potato salad, and bread.

We are very much looking forward to having you at our house (please send a RSVP mail and in return we will mail you our address) to taste and discuss all those wines and to have lots of laughter and fun.

CHEERS

Annette & Christian

PS: to wet your appetite for some great German wines, here is the story of the first Germany wine tour in 2015 which took place in June: http://schiller-wine.blogspot.com/2015/07/germany-east-wine-and-art-tour-by.html

Annette Schiller, Diplom-Volkswirt

ombiasy | PR

WINE tours | education | events

Washington DC - Frankfurt am Main

T: +1 (703) 459.7513

T: +49 (0) 177.337.0281

aschiller@ombiasypr.com

web: ombiasypr.com

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blog: schiller-wine.blogspot.com

Previous Riesling Parties

Riesling Summer at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC (2014), USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC (2014), USA

Picture: Annette Schiller, German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner and Christian Schiller at the Riesling Party 2014

schiller-wine - Related Postings (ombiasy WineTours)

2015

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

2014

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Picture: Lunch at Domaine Brocard in Cahblis with with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave

Following an exciting visit of Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in the North of Chablis, we drove all the way through the Chablis Region to the South of Chablis to have lunch at another highly-regarded Chablis producers: Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard. After lunch, we had a cellar tour and a tasting. Alexis Madelin was our guide. The special wines at the lunch were introduced by Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave. We were also greated by Sebastian Gay from the Brocard family.

Pictures: From Domaine Séguinot-Bordet to Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, via the Grand Cru Vineyards of Chablis

Chablis

Chablis is part of the Bourgogne wine region, but wines from Chablis are usually referred to by their own name. Chablis is up in the north, a separate wine region.

Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual chateaux. In Burgundy, a specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the wine producer.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller with Etienne Verdier of Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard at B Too in Washington DC

The main levels in the Chablis classifications, in descending order of quality, are:

(1) At the top of the classification are the Grand Cru vineyards, which are all located on a single hillside near the town of Chablis. The Grand Cru vineyards cover a 106 hectare area, made up of 7 “Climats” (Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudersir) and account for around 3% of Chablis’ production.

(2) Second in quality are the Premier Cru vineyards, covering an area of 750 hectares, gathered together into 40 “Climats”.

(3) Next is the generic AOC Chablis, the largest appellation.

(4) At the lowest end of the classification is Petit Chablis, which comprises the outlying land.

Chablis wines are almost all Chardonnay, bone-dry and fresh, with good acidity. Compared with the whites from the rest of Burgundy, Chablis tends to have much less influence of oak. Typically, Chablis is completely unoaked, vinified in stainless steel tanks, although many Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines receive some maturation in oak barrels. But aging time in the barrel and the share of new wood tends to be much smaller than for white wines of the Cote d’Or.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard

Jean-Marc Brocard was born in the small village of Chaudenay-le-Château in the Côte d'Or of the Bourgogne. Jean-Marc's father was a farmer, without any connection to wine. Jean-Marc’s marriage to his childhood sweetheart Claudine - the daughter of Emile Petit, a vigneron from the village of St-Bris-le-Vineux, a little town in Chablis, the most northerly wine-growing area of the Bourgogne, led him to wine. As a wedding present to the young couple, Emile bestowed upon them one hectare of vines near the Church of Sainte Clair, and in 1972 Domaine Brocard was born.

Starting with 1 hectare of vines, Jean-Marc Brocards has created an estate of some 180 hectares vineyards in Chablis and elsewhere in the Bourgogne.

Pictures: Cellar Tour of Domaine Jean Marc Brocard

In the beginning, Jean-Marc spent countless hours with the old vignerons of Chablis in an effort to master his new craft, and to learn the nuances of the vine. In particular, Jean-Marc acknowledges a considerable debt to one of the old vignerons of St-Cyr les Colons, a man named Louis Petit, who despite the name is unrelated to his father-in-law. The oldest vines of the Domaine Sainte Claire came from Louis Petit and it was he who gave to Jean-Marc the sense of tradition and a respect for nature, showing him that you can still maintain the old traditions, while practicing modern methods.

In 1996, Julien Brocard joined his father with the firm idea to convert to organic and biodynamic farming. La Boissonneuse vineyard was converted to Biodynamie in 1997 and ‘Vielles Vignes’ in 2001. Nowadays, Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard is run by the ‘Father-Son’ team Jean-Marc and Julien.

The Terroir

Situated near Auxerre in the valley of the Serein River, Chablis is one of France’s oldest wine growing regions. Prized by French kings and always found on the best tables in the 19th century, Chablis wines were considered prestigious.

Chablis wines take their famous mineral and fresh character from the vine’s roots which dig deep into the Kimméridgien limestone. This unique soil condition - chalk, limestone and fossilized oyster shells – is named for a stage of the late Jurassic period some 150 million years ago. The glacier forced to the surface an ancient sea floor from the Kimmeridgian era that had long been covered by soil and rock. This unique soil is what has made Burgundy the world famous wine region that it is today.

Pictures: Explaining the Terroir of the Bourgogne and Chablis, with Alexis Madelin

Jean-Marc Brocard: "The truth of wine lies in the soil where it has grown. The technique is an important factor in the wine growing, but it is only an aid, the wine is essentially the product of its soil." also " The soil of Chablis is exceptional and cannot be found anywhere in the world ; therefore I am a hard believer of the future of Chablis even for the next Millennium."

In reference to the lack of chemicals in the vineyard, Jean Marc says: "Our policy is to encourage the natural auto-immune system of the vine. Ploughing replaces herbicides and a good dose of well-rotted cow manure encourages the natural microbial activity of the soil."

This is not to say that Jean-Marc is afraid of technology or modernization, as he was the first winemaker in Chablis to use mechanical harvesting as a means to bring the fruit into the winery as fast as possible to preserve their fresh qualities.

Picture: Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave, Explaining the Wines

Picture: The Lunch Wines

Picture: Salad of Smoked Duck Breast with Roquefort Sauce

Picture: Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave, Pouring

Picture: Ham in Chablis Sauce with Basmati Rice

Picture: Cheese Plate

Picture: Fondant of Chocolate with Bourbon Vanilla Sauce

Picture: View from the Dining Room

Picture: View from the Dining Room

Vigneron and Negociant

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard is also a negociant. In 1980 a sparkling new winery was built near the little church of Sainte Claire and since then only the most cutting edge of technologies have been implemented in the facility. Total production is 4,000,000 bottles a year. The company exports 60% of its produce mainly to the UK, Norway, Sweden, Germany, Japan and the USA.

Pictures: Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard with Alexis Madelin

The Wines we Tasted

Lunch

2004 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Magnum
2001 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Magnum
2013 Jean Marc Brocard Irancy Les Mazelots Magnum

Wine Tasting

2014 Jean Marc Brocard Petit Chablis
2013 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Sainte Claire
2014 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Les Vieilles Vignes
2013 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Veau de Vey
2011 Jean Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Bye-Bye

Thanks for a great lunch, tasting and tour.

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Vineyard Walk Cellar Tour and Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Chablis)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at the Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis (Chef: Michel Vignaud), France

Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Picture: Wine Atlas of Germany and Journal of Wine Economics (Cambridge University Press), Vol 10, No 1, 2015

I reviewed:

DIETER BRAATZ, ULRICH SAUTTER and INGO SWOBODA: Wine Atlas of Germany. Translated by Kevin Goldberg, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, London, England, 2014, 277 pp., ISBN: 978-0-520-26067-2, $60.

My review was published in Vol 10, No 1, 2015 of the Journal of Wine Economics (Cambridge University Press), pages 121-123.

I am re-issuing my book review here on schiller-wine and adding a few pictures from the review and the book.

This was my second review in the Journal of Wine Economics. See also: Christian G.E. Schiller's Review of the Book: Ralf Frenzel (ed.) - Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, in: Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 9, 2014, No. 1, Cambridge University Press

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DIETER BRAATZ, ULRICH SAUTTER and INGO SWOBODA: Wine Atlas of Germany. Translated by Kevin Goldberg, University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, California; University of California Press, London, England, 2014, 277 pp., ISBN: 978-0-520-26067-2, $60.

The Wine Atlas of Germany, published by University of California Press in August 2014, is a wonderful coffee-table style book that takes a thorough look at the wine geography of Germany. It contains excellent wine maps and a wealth of useful information about German wine. However, the atlas has its limitations and this is due to the fact that (1) the way German wine makers classify their wines is in transition and (2) the Wine Atlas of Germany is a translation of the Weinatlas Deutschland, which was published in Germany in 2007; with the cut-off date for the German version almost 10 years back, the Wine Atlas of Germany was already outdated in a number of important aspects when it was published. This is the only, but a major, weakness of the book.

The authors are Dieter Braatz (deputy Editor-in-Chief of the German gourmet magazine Der Feinschmecker), Ulrich Sautter (wine writer) and Ingo Swoboda (co-author of the book "Riesling"). Jancis Robinson provided a forward. Kevin Goldberg translated the Wine Atlas of Germany and added a translator’s note at the beginning of the book.

The Wine Atlas of Germany is essentially divided into two main parts. First, there is a series of introductory chapters that provide background to the ongoing reform of wine classification in Germany, a discussion of the factors that makes a vineyard unique, an overview of the history of winegrowing in Germany and an introduction to the grape varieties of Germany. Second (and comprising the majority of the book), there is a series of 16 chapters covering all German wine regions, one by one. Each of these chapters includes detailed maps and information on the area’s soils, history and main grape varieties.

Pictures: Journal of Wine Economics (Cambridge University Press), Vol 10, No 1, 2015

Turning to the issue of wine classification in Germany, the basic German wine classification system is that of the German wine law of 1971, which replaced the German wine law of 1930. The German wine law of 1971 created the Prädikatswein system, which links must weights to a hierarchy of predicates. In ascending order of ripeness of the grapes at harvest, these are Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Importantly, although the hierarchy of predicates is not a quality hierarchy, in reality it is seen that way. The terroir as a determining factor for quality clearly moved to the backburner in Germany as a result of the introduction of the Prädikatswein system in 1971.

In terms of vineyard classification, the law of 1971 distinguishes between Einzellage and Grosslage. Einzellage is a single vineyard; Grosslage is a collection of single vineyards. A village typically has say 10 single vineyards and 1 collective vineyard. The wine law of 1971 redrew the vineyard map of Germany considerably, as the law required that single vineyards be at least five hectares in size. As a consequence, the wine law of 1971 resulted in fewer, but larger and more heterogeneous single vineyards than before. In the Wine Atlas of Germany, you find all collective vineyards and all single vineyards of the German wine law of 1971.

The law of 1971 does not contain a ranking of the single vineyards. However, the authors ranked them into 4 levels: (1) Excellent vineyard; (2) Superior vineyard; (3) Good vineyard and (4) Other Vineyards. The vineyard ranking in the Wine Atlas of Germany is the subjective ranking of the authors, based on various information and historical documents that are available, such as Prussian tax documents for the 1800s.

The ranking of the authors, all three accomplished experts of German wine is sound, although I have heard critical voices. For instance, just 7 sites along the entire Mosel are listed as exceptional, 13 if you include the Saar and Ruwer. This compares with 11 exceptional vineyards in the Pfalz, 16 exceptional vineyards in the Rheingau and 21 exceptional vineyards in the Nahe. The large fan community of fruity-sweet Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wines in the world is obviously disappointed by these ratings. But this is due to the fact that the Wine Atlas of Germany is a translation of a German wine atlas - and in Germany, the wines of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer do not enjoy the same cult status as they do outside of Germany.

Pictures: Wine Atlas of Germany

A few years ago, the VDP – the association of German elite wine makers – revolutionized the German classification system by moving to a terroir-based classification, following the Bourgogne model. With the latest modifications of 2012, at the bottom of the VDP classification are the basic entry-level wines (Gutswein). Above these are the village wines (Ortswein), followed by the single vineyard wines worthy of premier cru (Erste Lage) or even a grand cru (Grosse Lage) status. Note that in 2012, Grosse Lage replaced Erste Lage at the top of the VDP classification. Also, Grosse Lage should not be confused with Grosslage, the term for a large collective site in the law of 1971 (which in my view should be abolished).

Obviously, the Wine Atlas of Germany reflects only the early phase of these fundamental reforms.

Unfortunately, so much has happened in the past years, and this is not reflected in the atlas. Thus, if you have a recent vintage of a VDP producer, the Wine Atlas of Germany is of only limited help for you, if you want to know more about where the wine comes from.

Should one care about the VDP classification? It is the classification of just 200 winemakers, while there are 20.000 or so winemakers that are not members of the VDP. Yes, one should care. It is the elite of Germany (although there are quite a number of top winemakers that are not members of the VDP). When it comes to drinking German wine outside of Germany, the wine market is dominated by VDP producers. And rightly in my view, the Wine Atlas of Germany pays a lot of attention to the VDP classification – but does not capture the changes of the last years.

Finally, looking ahead, Germany is in the process of changing the wine geography further by allowing Gewann names - a sub-plot of a single vineyard - on the label, as a response to the fact that many single vineyards established in the wine law of 1971 are of quite varied quality (i.e. heterogeneous). Many such Gewanne have already been registered and you will see more and more of them on German wine labels. This reform, of course, is not reflected in the Wine Atlas of Germany.

To sum up, the Wine Atlas of Germany does not capture the most recent movements to a Bourgogne-type ranking of vineyards in Germany, but there is much more to the book. Overall, the Wine Atlas of Germany is a beautiful book with great maps and lots of background information. The excellent photographs capture essential details of each region covered. Finally, German wine lovers from outside of Germany will be excited by the coverage of the internationally lesser known regions, such as Baden, Württemberg and Saxony for example.

Christian G.E. Schiller
International Monetary Fund (ret.) and emeritus professor, University of Mainz, Germany
Cschiller@schiller-wine.com

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Fall Tours by ombiasy WineTours 2015 - A Very Special Treat: Experience Harvest Time !

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Franc

Pictures: In the Vineyards of Weingut Kloster Pforta

The Saale Unstrut wine region is Germany’s most northern wine region, in the valleys of the Saale and Unstrut rivers, around Freyburg and Naumburg. With 730 hectares of vineyard area, it is one of the smaller wine regions in Germany. The oldest record of viticulture dates back to the year 998 during the reign of Emperor Otto III.

Located in the area of the former German Democratic Republic (GDR), Saale-Unstrut has become a thriving emerging wine region after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989 (as Sachsen, the other wine region in the area of the former GDR; Sachsen is half of the size of Saale Unstrut).

Picture: Germany's Wine Regions

Like in Sachsen, during the communist times from 1945 until reunification in 1989, wine production was nationalized, and winemaking took place in huge VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) wineries. The output, the bottle count was imposed on the VEB by the State, and therefore quality could not play a major role. The winemaking process was deprived of modern farming and cellar techniques. The majority of wine produced was for the consumption of the communist party members. After the iron curtain came down, family wineries were founded, and the winemakers pursued quality with a vengeance.

Pictures: In the Saale Unstrut Region

Basically, all of the wineries I have visited experienced rapid growth and large investments over the past years, following 50 years of communism that did not allow for private initiative. In a way, Saale Unstrut is an emerging wine region in an old world wine country. It is pretty much an emerging market situation there, but without any foreign investors.

Pictures: Driving from Weingut Pawis to Weingut Thürkind in the Saale Unstrut Region

Most of the region's vineyards are situated in the State of Saxony-Anhalt, with the remainder in the State of Thuringia and in the State of Brandenburg (the "Werderaner Wachtelberg" near Potsdam). The vineyards are located on the hillsides lining the Saale and Unstrut rivers. It all looks very attractive, with steep terraces, dry stone walls and century-old vineyard cottages, interspersed with meadows, floodplains. High above, are defiant castles and palaces.

Pictures: In Naumburg, the most important Town of the Saale Unstrut Region

Saale Unstrut is located in a region that was the intellectual and cultural center of Germany (Heiliges Römisches Reich Deutscher Nationen) for many centuries. The second German university (after Prague) was the University of Leipzig, which is just 50 km away from Saale Unstrut. Schiller and Goethe, to name just 2, lived here. Culture, history, nature and wine are combined here perfectly.

Pictures: In Leipzig, the closest larger City

Saale-Unstrut is the northernmost of Germany's wine regions, and is therefore one of Europe's northernmost traditional wine regions. It lies to the north of the 51st degree of latitude, which was considered to be the limit for viticulture before global warming. Also, the weather is more variable than in the regions to the west.

White grape varieties make up 75% of Saale-Unstrut's plantations. The most common grape varieties are the white varieties Müller-Thurgau and Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc). The wines tend to be vinified dry and have a refreshing acidity.

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours

Annette Schiller's ombiasy WineTours covers the Saale Unstrut Region on her Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours. Compared with the other ombiasy WineTours, the art component is much more in the forefront here.

Annette Schiller: This tour allows wine lovers and aficionados of the arts to experience what the statement “wine is a form of art” entails. Participants will live the profound relationship between wine, music, dance, and visual arts by visiting Germany’s beautiful, lesser known wine regions, and the region which is the cradle of German culture, and intellectual thinking. Meet winemakers who embody the "wine and art" approach right at their wineries, and attend three world-class concert-opera- and ballet performances in East-and Middle Germany. This tour will tickle all of your senses and emotions.

See:
Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East
Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region

Weingut Klaus Böhme in Kirchscheidungen
Winzerhof Gussek in Naumburg
Weingut Matthias Hey in Naumburg
Weingut Lützkendorf (VDP) in Bad Kösen
Weingut Pawis (VDP) in Freyburg
Weingut Kloster Pforta
Weingut Thürkind in Gröst

Weingut Klaus Böhme in Kirchscheidungen

Weingut Klaus Böhme is in the village of Kirchscheidungen in the Unstrut valley. The Boehme family can look back to 300 years of wine making. However, wine making was always part of a traditional mixed agriculture and viticulture farm, with cows, pigs, chicken and other animals, with the wine making on the backburner, except for the last 20 years, since Klaus Böhme has taken over.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Ina Paris, the Wife of Klaus Böhme, at Weingut Klaus Böhme

Before this part of Germany became the German Democratic Republic (GDR), the Böhmes cultivated an area of 60 hectares, of which 40 hectares was owned and 20 hectares was leased. Then came the forced collectivization of 1960, and the land of the Boehme’s became part of the government run agricultural co-operative. Ina Paris explained that the Böhme family remained the legal owner of the land, but lost the right to use it. The land was used by the government-run “LPG” (Agricultural Production Co-operative).

In 1989, after the breakdown of the GDR, the Böhmes reclaimed their land and restarted their farm and winery. Weingut Klaus Böhme was one of the first privately-owned wineries in the Saale Unstrut region reemerging after 40 years of socialism. In 1994, the cellar was equipped with stainless steel tanks. From there on, all Klaus Böhme wines were fermented, aged and bottled at the Klaus Böhme winery.

The vineyard area was expanded by acquiring part of the former Schulenburg vineyard. The vineyard area now totals 9 hectares. The area is planted with the white varieties Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Riesling, Kerner, Gutedel and Traminer, as well as with the red varieties Dornfelder, Pinot Noir, Portugieser and Pinot Madeleine.

Pictures: Weingut Klaus Böhme

The wines tend to be made in a dry style, fresh and fruity. The red wines are fermented on the skins in the traditional style. Annual production is 70.000 bottles. Very little of it is sold in the western part of Germany. Nothing is exported. A large part of the production is sold via restaurants.

See:
Weingut Klaus Boehme in Saale Unstrut in Germany (2011)

Winzerhof Gussek in Naumburg

Winzerhof Gussek is in Naumburg, the gateway to the Saale-Unstrut. It was founded by André Gussek in 1993.

André Gussek came to Naumburg in the 1980s. For more than 20 years he was the cellar master at Kloster Pforta in Bad Koesen, near Naumburg, first during GDR times at the socialist co-operative VEG Weinbau Naumburg, and later after reunification at Landesweingut Kloster Pforta, with 120 hectares of land.

Pictures: With André Gussek at Winzerhof Gussek (2014)

See:
Visiting Andre Gussek and his Weingut Winzerhof Gussek in Saale Unstrut, Germany, 2011
Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Matthias Hey in Naumburg

This is the only winemaker on the list that I have not yet visited myself. But I have heard a lot of good things about Weingut Matthias Hey.

Matthias Hey graduated from the prestigious Geisenheim University in 2008. Following some time in Italy, he is back now in the Saale Unstrut region and runs – with his parents Reinhard and Sigrun Hey – Weingut Matthias Hey. The parents bought vineyard land in 2001, establishing the base for Weingut Matthias Hey. Today, the vineyard area totals 6 hectares.

Grape varieties: Müller-Thurgau, Gutedel, Silvaner, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Blauer Zweigelt, Spätburgunder, Portugieser.

Weingut Lützkendorf (VDP) in Bad Kösen

Weingut Lützkendorf was founded at the dawn of the 19th century and existed until 1959 when the GDR authorities integrated the estate into the government run Agricultural Cooperative. In 1991, after the reunification of the two German States the vineyards were returned to the family.
Germany.

Pictures: Uwe Lützkendorf and his Wines (2015)at Weingut Lützkendorf

Uwe Lützkendorf reestablished the winery and built new production facilities in Bad Kösen. The stony soils and the climate of this northern wine region decisively influences the character of the wines. Uwe Lützkendorf’s philosophy of wine making is as little intervention as possible to showcase the character of the wines.

In 1996 the winery Lützkendorf was the first estate in the Saale-Unstrut region to become member of the prestigious VDP, the Association of Germany’s Premium Winemakers.

See:
Weingut Lützkendorf in Saale Unstrut in Germany (2011)
Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (VDP) in Freyburg

Weingut Pawis – owned and run by Bernhard Pawis and his wife Kerstin - is located in the historic Zscheiplitz Estate, established in the 12th century as a convent, close to Freyburg. It is a gorgeous set-up, but as Bernhard Pawis told us, under the communist regime that did not allow private entrepreneurship, the then nationalized estate was completely run down and renovation was a major undertaking.

Picture: Christian Schiller with Bernhard Pawis at Weingut Pawis (2011)

Bernhard Pawis is a trained winemaker, educated in the former German Democratic Republic in a VEB (volkseigener Betrieb / company owned by the people) winery. Shortly after the Iron Curtain came down in 1989, Bernhard’s parents bought 0.5 hectares of vineyard land and founded a small winery.

Pictures: Christian Schiller and Kerstin Pawis at Weingut Pawis (2014)

Following the death of his father in 1998, Bernhard took over the reins, undertook major investments, bought more land and the Zscheiplitz Estate, and paid detailed attention to quality. In 2001 he received the highest reward for his efforts when he was invited to join the VDP, Germany’s association of elite winemakers with only about 200 members.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Berhard Pawis at Weingut Pawis (2014)

To listen to him, and also to his fellow winemakers in this former GDR area, recount their stories of reviving an economic and agriculture waste land after German reunification, is living history and worthy of a spy thriller.

Picture: Weingut Pawis

See:
Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany
Weingut Pawis in Saale Unstrut, Germany (2011)

Weingut Kloster Pforta

Weingut Kloster Pforta is owned and run by the State Government of Sachsen Anhalt. It is one of five important wine estates owned by a state government in Germany. The others are: Hessische Staatsweingueter Kloster Eberbach (Rheingau and Hessische Bergstrasse), Saechsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth (Sachsen), Staatliche Hofkellerei Wuerzburg (Franken) and Staatsweingut Meersburg (Baden).

Its history mirrors German history. Its origins date back to the Pforta Abbey, founded in 1137 by Cistercian monks. In 1154 the monks started to plant vines in the Pfortenser Köppelberg vineyard, which still today is one of the six vineyards of the winery, producing excellent wines. Pforta Abbey soon had a reputation as the richest abbey in medieval Thuringia, with vineyard holdings in 192 communes, totaling at least 250 ha (around 625 acres).

Pictures: At Kloster Pforta (2014)

After Reformation (during the 16th century the eastern part of Germany became Lutheran and the monks had to leave), ownership went to the kings of Saxony, which subsequently lost the Abbey Pforta to the Kingdom of Prussia at the Vienna Congress in 1814.

Prussia converted Pforta into a wine estate and wine research institute. After World War II, it became the socialist co-operative VEG Weinbau Naumburg in East-Germany, with 120 hectares of land. After the breakdown of the socialist system in East Germany in 1989, Pforta was in the hands of the privatization organization Treuhand for a couple of years, but not privatized and became the Landesweingut Kloster Pforta of the Federal State of Sachsen-Anhalt.

The vineyard area totals 51 hectares, with holdings in the following sites: Goseck (Dechantenberg), Großjena (Blütengrund), Naumburg (Paradies), Pforta (Köppelberg) and Saalhäuser (with eponymous monopole sites). The main grape varities are Müller-Thurgau (10 ha), Silvaner (6 ha), Riesling (6 ha) and Pinot Blanc (5 ha) as well as Portugieser (5 ha), and Zweigelt.

See:
The Role of Government - Government Owned Wineries in Germany
Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst

This winery was founded shortly after reunification when the government returned land to the Thürkind family which had been nationalized during the communist era. The land included 3 acres of vineyards. Rudolf Thürkind used to work as cellar master in the cooperative in Freyburg and winemaker colleagues of the wine regions in the western part of Germany encouraged the Thürkinds to start producing their own wine.

Pictures: At Weingut Thürkind (2015)

Today, more than twenty years later, the Thürkind family owns 15 acres of vineyards in very favorable sites and developed the old farm into into a beautiful estate, making excellent wines, including gorgeous Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Son Mario Thürkind is now at the helm of the estate.

See:
Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller’ Favorites

This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.

Europe

Germany

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Schiller's Favorite (Wine-) Restaurants in Deidesheim in the Pfalz, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, 2013, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

France

Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, 2012 France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City) (2012), France

UK, Spain, Austria, Hungary

Schiller's Favorite Winebars in London, UK
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, 2012, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)

USA

Riesling Crawl in New York City – Or, Where to Buy German Wine in Manhattan: Schiller's Favorite Wine Stores, USA
Schiller's Favorite Oyster Bars and Seafood Places in Seattle, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, 2012, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California

Asia

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Singapore
Schiller s Favorite Winebars in Beijing, 2014, China

Africa

Schiller's Favorite Wines of Madagascar
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen, with Owner Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen

Cellar Tour and Lunch at Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Sachsen

Cellar Tour, Art Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Zimmerling with Winemaker Klaus Zimmerling and Artist Malgorzata Chodakoska in Sachsen

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen, Franken

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Star Winemaker Paul Fürst at Weingut Fürst in Franken

Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Picture: Christian Schiller and Robert Theobald of Zur Buchscheer

Frankfurt am Main is definitely the apple wine capital of Germany and some say of the whole world. Apple wine is a German variant of hard cider, which is made all over the world, in some regions sparkling, in others sweet. In Frankfurt, you are typically served a tart, dry apple wine with around 6 percent alcohol, in one of the many apple wine taverns.

Best of Apfelwein 2015

Frankfurt-Tipp, a popular online portal for the greater Frankfurt am Main area, organized an Apfelwein contest: Readers were invited to name their favorite Apfelwein producer. Here are the winners.

#1 Obsthof Schneider, Frankfurt/Nieder-Erlenbach
#2 Zur Buchscheer, Frankfurt-Sachsenhausen
#3 Kelterei Possmann, Frankfurt-Rödelheim

Interestingly, the 3 top producers all represent different Apfelwein market segments. Obsthof Schneider is a small, artisanal producers of ultra-premium Apfelwein. Zur Buchscheer is one of the few hard cider taverns in Frankfurt that still make the cider they serve on the premises. Finally, Possmann is a large mass producers of Apfelwein, with a long history.

Making Apple Wine (Hard Cider)

Just as wine making begins in the vineyard, hard ider making begins in the orchard. Tree ripened fruit, picked at maximum flavor and sweetness is the best starting point for hard cider. But there is one big difference between hard cider and wine: Apples must be ground before pressing. The entire apple is ground to a pulp called pommace. The pulp is almost always pressed immediately. The next step is the fermentation. Generally, there is less sugar to ferment in apples than in grapes. Therefore, cider tends to have lower alcohol content than wine.

In the cellar, hard cider makers have as many options for managing fermentation as winemakers — chaptalization, wild yeast, temperature control, adding sterilized juice, malolactic fermentation, stopping fermentation before dryness to achieve a naturally sweetened hard cider, to name a few issues.

Like wine made from grapes, the flavor of hard cider can vary from dry to sweet. Like sparkling and still wine, both sparkling and still hard ciders are made. Sometimes the hard cider is cloudy with sediment and sometimes completely clear. The color can range from light yellow through orange to brown. The variations in clarity and color are mostly due to filtering between pressing and fermentation. In terms of alcohol content, hard cider can vary from 2% to 8.5%. Generally, apples grown for consumption are suitable for hard cider making, although there are also special hard cider apples.

For sparkling hard cider, basically the same methods are available as for sparkling wine. Higher quality hard ciders can be made the same way as Champagne is produced. A few producers in Quebec, inspired by ice wine, developed cidre de glace - ice hard cider. Calvados from Normandy is distilled from hard cider. Hard cider may also be used to make vinegar.

Hard Cider in the World

Apple wine is a German variant of hard cider, which is made all over the world. The French cidre is produced in Normandy and Brittany. It comes as cidre doux, cidre demi-sec and cidre brut, but most French cidre is sweet. Typically, French ciders are sparkling. Higher quality French cider is sold in champagne-style bottles (cidre bouché). German hard cider has a tart, sour taste. In the UK, hard cider is available in sweet, medium and dry varieties. In the US during colonial times, apple hard cider was the main beverage, but after prohibition the word hard cider came to mean unfiltered apple juice. Alcoholic cider is called hard cider in the US. German apple wine typically has an alcohol content of 4%–9% and a tart, sour taste. Traditionally, it is not bubbly.

Hard cider was already known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. In the 11th century it was introduced into Spain and was used there as a medicine for scurvy. It was introduced into England in 1066 when William the Great brought some from France into England.

The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider

A few years ago, a number of apple wine producers ventured into the art of apple wine making by starting to produce vintage apple wines and special variety apple wines. While the choice of apple wine in an apple wine tavern is as basic as it can get (the house apple wine), the apple wine portfolios of the artisan apple wine producers resemble very much those of the Rheingau or Rheinhessen wine makers a few miles away: There is a variety of different apple wines, with the vintage, apple variety, alcohol level, and other information indicated. One of the leaders of this new generation of artisan apple wine producers is Andreas Schneider.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Andreas Schneider

It all started in 1965, when his parents Albert and Waltraud Schneider founded the Obsthof am Steinberg in Nieder-Erlenbach at the outskirts of Frankfurt am Main. Andreas took over from his parents in 1993 and began to convert to organic farming. Since 1996, he has been certified by ABCERT AG, Esslingen. In 1999, he opened his apple wine tavern and garden. On Andreas’ 13 hectares of land, not only apples are planted, but 14 different fruits, mainly of course apples.

Pictures: Christian Schiller at Obsthof Schneider with Andreas Schneider

Andreas Schneider currently sells several non-vintage, uncomplicated apple wines (Apfelweine ab Fass) directly from the barrel for Euro 2 per liter. He also offers a dozen or so still vintage apple wines (Jahrgangsapfelweine) in the Euro 4 to 12 per 0.75 liter range. In terms of remaining sweetness, they come as trocken, fast trocken and halbtrocken. Most of them are in the 7% to 8% alcohol range. The top wines are 2 sparkling apple wines (Apfelschaumweine), both made in the traditional champagne method and both brut.

See also:
The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer

In Frankfurt, much of the apple wine is consumed at the wooden, communal tables in the local apple wine taverns with hearty local food, like Green Sauce (made from 7 herbs and yogurt accompanied by boiled eggs and boiled potatoes), Rippchen mit Kraut und Brot (grilled pork, sauerkraut and bread). It is served in a Geripptes, a glass with a lozenge cut that refracts light. A filled Geripptes is called a Schoppen. If you drink more than a glass or are in a group, you typically order a Bembel (a specific Apfelwein jug). The different sizes of a Bembel are designated after their contents in glasses from 4-er to 10-er Bembel.

Pictures: At Zur Buchscheer, with Otto Schiller

The apple wine tavern (Apfelweinwirtschaft) is as distinctive a Frankfurt institution as the Bierkeller is of Munich or the Weinstube of Mainz. Many of the best-known establishments are concentrated in Sachsenhausen, but others are dotted all over the city. They are strongly traditional. They offer hearty local cuisine, usually at moderate prices.

Overall, the various apple wine taverns do not differ that much one from another. However, while most of the apple wine taverns pour an apple wine bought from an apple wine producer, there are a few taverns that still make the apple wine they serve on the premise.

Zur Buchscheer in Sachsenhausen belongs to the small group of apple wine taverns that make their own apple wine and pour it in their apple wine tavern. 100 years back, this was the rule. Today, it has unfortunately become the exception in Frankfurt am Main.

Zur Buchscheer in Sachsenhausen was founded in 1876 by Adam Theobald. Now in the fifth generation, it is owned and managed by Robert Theobald and Christian Theobald. The name Zur Buchscheer goes back to the 16./17. Century and signifies an area in the forest where the peasants would take their pigs and the sheppards their sheep so that the animals could find nutritious food like nuts.

Then as today, the apple wine served at Zur Buchscheer is made on the premises. When you go to the Zur Buchscheer in the September/October period, you can observe it yourself. A couple of years ago, Robert Theobald took a group of apple wine lovers, which included me, through the process of making apple wine at Zur Buchscheer: “For our hard cider, we use carefully selected orchards of the Wetterau, the Taunus, the Odenwald, the Spessart as well as from the surrounding area. For the fermentation, we do not need cultured yeasts, as the yeast that sits on the apples is sufficient to get the fermentation going. In addition, the hard cider is clarified only by the tannins and acids of the apple orchard. We do not need to filter our apple wine, which would take aromas away.”

The food served is hearty local food, like Green Sauce (made from 7 herbs and yogurt accompanied by boiled eggs and boiled potatoes), Rippchen mit Kraut und Brot (grilled pork, sauerkraut and bread). Robert Theobald: “In our kitchen, the meals are always freshly prepared. So, our mashed potatoes as well as baked potatoes made from fresh potatoes and seasoned with "good" butter."

Pictures: Making Apple Wine at Zur Buchscheer

Here are a few items from the Zur Buchscheer menu.

Rippchen Rib – boiled or grilled - with „Sauerkraut“ and bread € 7,50
Schlachtplatte Butcher’s Platter – boiled – with “Sauerkraut” and bread € 7,50
„Gref – Völsing’s“ Rindswurst Beef sausage – boiled with „Sauerkraut“ and bread € 4,20
Gegrilltes Schäufelchen Grilled cut of shoulder of pork with “Sauerkraut” and bread; by weight: between € 9,00 and € 16,20
Frankfurter Grüne Soße The famous Frankfurt cream-sauce speciality with seven green herbs! “Grüne Soße” served with 4 boiled egg halves and boiled potatoes € 8,00

Picture: Frankfurter Grüne Soße

Homemade sausages from the “Vogelsberg” (an area north – east from Frankfurt) - all served with bread an butter
Portion of “Preßkopf” (a terrine of pork) € 4,50
Portion of “Leberwurst” (a liver sausage) € 4,00
Portion of “Blutwurst” (a black pudding sausage) € 4,00
Handkäse mit Musik - a must for everyone visiting Frankfurt – very tasty
A Frankfurt cheese speciality with “Musik” (oil, vinegar and onions) € 2,60

See also:
Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Kelterei Possmann

Kelterei Possmann was founded in 1881 by Philipp Possmann and, now in its fourth generation, has been family owned and operated ever since.

Picture: Apple Wine Possmann and Frau Rauscher at Apfelwein Weltweit 2014 in Frankfurt

Philipp Possmann was known throughout nineteenth century Frankfurt Main for his homemade apple wine—a tart, pale yellow drink he made in the basement of his restaurant and served to eager customers. Due to popular demand, Mr. Possmann embarked on a more wide-scale production and distribution of his wine. Since then, what began as a small one-man-business has survived through the setbacks of two World Wars to develop into Germany’s market leader for apple wine. Today, Possmann employs over 100 people and sells nearly 20 million liters through Germany and the world.

In terms of quantity, the most important apple wine producer in Frankfurt is Possmann. Heil from the Taunus region has gained considerable market shares in recent years. In addition, Rapps and Hoehl are two large apple wine producers in Hessen; their apple wine is very popular in Frankfurt.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Impressions from the Apple Wine Festival 2013 in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Wine in Frankfurt am Main? - Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt, Germany

In the Glass: Gluehwein at Frankfurt am Main Christmas Market

The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In an Apple Wine (Cider) Mecca: The Apple Wine Bistrorant Landsteiner Muehle of Apple Wine Sommelier Michael Stoeckl near Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

Picture: Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Cheese Course

During the day, we focused on the wines of Chablis, with 2 visits of top Chablis producer: Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny and Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy(where we also had lunch). We then drove all the way to the southern tip of the Bourgogne proper (i.e. without Beaujolais) to spend a night and have dinner at the Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone.

See here:
Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

I am not sure if the Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone is located inside of the Maconnais or already in the Beaujolais. Well, still Bourgogne in a broader sense. But while the Beaujolais officially is one of the sub-regions of the Bourgogne, many – in particular in the non-Beaujolais Bourgogne - consider Beaujolais as an independent region and not as a part of the Bourgogne.

Anyway, when you drive through the region, it is impossible to say whether you are in the Maconnais (in the Bourgogne) or in the Beaujolais. In fact, some winemakers in the area make both Maconnais and Beaujolais wines. They sell the white Chardonnay as Maconnais and the red Gamey as Beaujolais.

Pictures: Christian Schiller (with Oscar, below) at Chateau de la Barge in Creches sur Saone during a previous Visit

See:
Dinner at Restaurant Chateau de la Barge in Creches sur Saone in Burgundy, France

Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone

Les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN: Les deux chefs de cet élégant restaurant se mettent en quatre pour interpréter les classiques de la gastronomie du terroir. Au menu par exemple: tarte fine aux escargots ail et persil, risotto de homard, gaufrettes mâconnaises... et un beau choix de pouilly-fuissé.

Pictures: Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone

Tripadvisor: Very pretty chateau hotel in a park set in the lovely Burgundian countryside - peaceful except for the TGV which runs about 500 yds away. Reasonable room with a fridge and A/C, very clean with maid service twice a day. We ate all our meals on the terrace which was beautifully arranged under shady canopies. The food was first class - lots of little extras like amuse bouches etc, well cooked and well presented. The staff were extremely professional, swift and helpful, despite the restaurant being very busy and obviously popular with locals. Nice pool, where there was also waiter service. Also nice to have a lift when heavy suitcases are involved. We stayed 2 nights and plan to come back next year, perhaps for longer.

Trip advisor: Situated in the heart of the vineyards about a 10 minute drive from the center of Macon and just off of the A6, this is a small but excellent hotel giving outstanding value for money. A group of us stayed at Chateau de la Barge for 2 nights. This was our second visit. And it just gets better each time. The owners and their staff are welcoming and very helpful. The restaurant serves excellent food at very reasonable prices, there is a great selection of locally produced wine. Rooms are very comfortable and well decorated. The breakfast selection is outstanding and includes homemade jams. We travel to Bourgogne each year to buy wine and this will be our base for future trips.

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone

We had a wonderful dinner. Annette and I paired the dinner with a Pouilly-Fuissé and a Julienas, both from the region.

Picture: Poached Egg on a Spinach Bed, Brioche, Eggwhite Foam, with a Pouilly-Fuissé

Picture: Ravioli from Turbot Cheeks and Salt from Black Lemon

Picture: 2014 Pascal Aufrance, Julienas

Pictures: Cheese Course

Picture: Dessert

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Vineyard Walk Cellar Tour and Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Dinner at Restaurant Chateau de la Barge in Creches sur Saone in Burgundy, France

Picture: Spanish chefs Joan Roca (L) of El Celler de Can Roca restaurant, Carme Ruscalleda (bottom L) of Sant Pau restaurant and Ferran Adria (R) of El Bulli restaurant, Alberto Chicote (2nd R), Christian Escriba (C) and television presenter Josep Cuni (C) take a 'selfie' during the "La Fabrica del Menjar Solidari" (The Factory of the Food Charity) charity show at Liceu theatre in Barcelona June 29, 2014. The proceeds of the show, which is hosted by Adria and includes cooking performances, go to charity.

Picture: The S.Pellegrion World's 50 Best Restaurants

The new World's 50 Best Restaurants list, sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, was released a few weeks ago.

For previous years, see:
The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2015) - San Pellegrino
The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2014) - San Pellegrino
The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2013) and the World's 10 Best Cities to Eat Well (2009)
The 2010 World's Best Restaurants

The Top 10

There were several familiar names in the top 10 -- but also a few newcomers.

The modernist El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, Catalonia, long been hailed for its combination of Catalan dishes and cutting edge techniques, reclaimed the #1 spot. The restaurant is helmed by three brothers: the oldest on, Joan Roca, mans the kitchen; Josep is sommelier; and the youngest one, Jordi is the pastry chef.

Massimo Bottura's comparatively low-key Osteria Francescana in Modena, Northern Italy, moved up from #3 to the #2 spot.

Chef Rene Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen lost again the top spot, after losing it to El Celler De Can Roca in 2013, following 3 consecutive years at the top. The 45-seat restaurant features Nordic cuisine based on ingredients foraged from the nearby forests and shores in Denmark.

It was a good year for South America, occupying two spots in the top ten. At #4 was Lima's Central, with its high-low-altitude tastings. The wildly varying elevations the ingredients are harvested from are listed next to each course.

New York's swanky Eleven Madison Park took the fifth spot, down one place from 2014.

Murgaritz, in San Sebastian, Spain, held on to #6.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, the TV chef's venture at London's Mandarin Oriental Hotel, fell two spots to #7, while Tokyo's Narisawa made a top 10 debut at #8.

Alex Atala's DOM in Sao Paolo, which focuses on the indigenous bounty of Brazil and the Amazon, came in at #9.

Tenth place was given to Gaggan, the Bangkok venue recently named Asia's best restaurant.

Others

The year's biggest surprise was Moscow's White Rabbit at #23. The venue, whose dining room is located under a glass dome, serves a tasting menu featuring products from Southern Russia and Crimea, which Vladimir Putin reclaimed from Ukraine in 2014.

Another unexpected entry was Shanghai's Ultraviolet, signaling the return of mainland China to the top 50.

Six American restaurants made the list. Daniel Humm and Will Guidara's neo-classical American spot, Eleven Madison Park, fell one place to #5. Le Bernardin in NYC came in at #18 (Chef Eric Ripert specializes in fish). Grant Achatz's Alinea, America's most celebrated bastion of avant-garde gastronomy, with its helium filled taffy balloons, fell to #26, down from #9. Per Se in NYC fell 10 places to now #40. The Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Tarrytown is new on the list at #49. The French Laundry in Yountville is at #50, down by 6 places. The Coi in San Francisco and Daniel in NYC (the flagship restaurant of French Chef Daniel Boulud) dropped from the list.

The Best Restaurant Award has been dominated by El Celler de Can Roca, El Bulli and Noma in the past years. In 2002 and 2006–2009, El Bulli was the world's best restaurant, winning more times than any other restaurant. In 2013 and again in 2015 El Celler de Can Roca won. In 2010 to 2012 and Noma was #1 and again in 2014

The list was drawn from the votes of more than 900 leading figures in the industry - including food critics, chefs, restaurateurs and highly regarded "gastronomes". The World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards is sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.

The Top 50

1. El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain
2. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy
3. Noma, Copenhagen, Denmark
4. Central, Lima, Peru
5. Eleven Madison Park, New York, USA
6. Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spain
7. Dinner, London, UK
8. Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan
9. D.O.M., Sao Paulo, Brazil
10. Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand
11. Mirazur, Menton, France
12. L'Arpége, Paris, France
13. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain
14. Astrid y Gaston, Lima, Peru
15. Steirereck, Vienna, Austria
16. Pujol, Mexico City, Mexico
17. Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain
18. Le Bernardin, New York, USA
19. Azurmendi, Larrabetzu, Spain
20. The Ledbury, London, UK
21. Le Chateaubriand, Paris, France
22. Nahm, Bangkok, Thailand
23. White Rabbit, Moscow, Russia
24. Ultraviolet, Shanghai, China
25. Fäviken, Järpen, Sweden
26. Alinea, Chicago, USA
27. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy
28. The Test Kitchen, Cape Town, South Africa
29. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo, Japan
30. Vendôme, Bergisch Gladbach, Germany
31. Restaurant Frantzén, Stockholm, Sweden
32. Attica, Melbourne, Australia
33. Aqua, Wolfsburg, Germany
34. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy
35. Quintonil, Mexico City, Mexico
36. L'Astrance, Paris, France
37. Biko, Mexico City, Mexico
38. Amber, Hong Kong, China
39. Quique Dacosta, Dénia, Spain
40. Per Se, New York, USA
41. Mani, Sao Paulo, Brazil
42. Borago, Santiago, Chile (a tie)
42. Tickets, Barcelona, Spain (a tie)
44. Maido, Lima, Peru
45. Relae, Copenhagen, Denmark
46. Restaurant Andre, Singapore,
47. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Paris, France
48. Schloss Schauenstein, Furstenau, Switzerland
49. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocanto Hills, USA
50. The French Laundry, Yountville, USA

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

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The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2014) - San Pellegrino

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The 2010 World's Best Restaurants

Pictures: Prinz zur Lippe, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Zadel is both the oldest and the largest privately owned wine producer in Saxony. Its owner, Prof. Dr. Georg Prinz zur Lippe, rebuilt the estate from scratch step by step, following the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.

We spent 7 hours with Prinz zur Lippe on the tour. We started with a couple of wines in the Weinbergshäuschen (a little house in the vineyard), overlooking the city of Meissen. From there, we moved to Schloss Proschwitz, where Prinz zur Lippe gave us a quick tour of the chateau. Next was the winery, where Prinz zur Lippe gave us a tour of winery, followed by an extensive tasting with Prinz zur Lippe in the tasting room of the winery.

Picture: Welcome

The winery also has an excellent restaurant, the Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, where we had dinner; Prinz zur Lippe joined us for dinner. The dinner with Prinz zur Lippe will be covered in a separate posting.

Sachsen (Saxony)

Sachsen, located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. Most of the region’s vines are planted on terraces along the River Elbe, and being at such a gradient, a lot of the work is done by hand. For 8 centuries, vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and Riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites.

Meissen porcelain, known locally as “white gold,” is one of the things Sachsen is best known for, being the first place in Europe to make china in the early 18th century.

Pictures: Meissen

Anette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

Picture: Semper Opera in Dresden

Weingut Proschwitz

The zur Lippe family was first mentioned in the early 12th century. The family belonged to the reigning dynasties in Europe until 1918. For more than 300 years, the family branch of Georg Prinz zur Lippe lived in Sachsen and produced wine. However there is a 45 year long interruption, when in 1945 the Russians occupied the eastern half of Germany and disappropriated and expelled the zur Lippe family.

Immediately after Germany’s reunification Georg Prinz zur Lippe started to buy back his family’s wine estate and ancestral residence, the Proschwitz castle. Since then he has restored the castle to its former glory, and invested heavily to build up the winery to become a state of the art wine producing estate. With 90 hectares under vine Weingut Proschwitz belongs to one of the larger wineries in Germany and is the largest privately owned one in Sachsen. Great care is given to sustainable techniques in the vineyard to enable future generations to continue to produce outstanding wines.

Thirteen grape varieties are grown on the estate: Pinot Gris 20%, Pinot Blanc 12%, Müller-Thurgau 11%, Elbling 8%, Pinot Noir 8%, Riesling 8%, Dornfelder 7%, Goldriesling 7%, Scheurebe 8%, Traminer and others.

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz also has a hotel and restaurant (the Lippe'sches Gutshaus). The family’s 18th-century palace hosts conferences and weddings.

The Communist Period and German Reunification

We began our afternoon and evening with Georg Prinz zur Lippe in the Weinbergshäuschen (a little house in the midst of the vineyard) overlooking Meissen and sipping a glass of his excellent Sekt. He dwelled extensively on the winery’s tumultuous history.

Before the 2. World War, the von Lippe family was one of the richest family in Saxony, with holdings in various sectors, including wine making. When the Soviet Red Army invaded eastern Germany in 1945, the parents of Georg Prinz zur Lippe were expropriated and imprisoned. Fortunately, although the communists hated royalty and routinely executed royals they captures, they were not murdered, but – after a period of imprisonment in Saxony - were able to leave to the western part of Germany. There, as a refugees without any means (lie so many others, including my parents), Christian Prinz zur Lippe had to start a new live. Initially, he took a job as a gardener. Obviously, his son, Georg Prinz zur Lippe was not raised in abashed luxury. Georg Prinz zur Lippe pursued a successful career as an agricultural engineer.

Pictures: With Georg Prinz zur Lippe in the Weinbergshäuschen (a little house in the midst of the vineyard) overlooking Meissen

Then, the Berlin Wall fell. Christian Prinz zur Lippe suggested that Georg attempt to recover the family’s property in East Germany. But because the property had been expropriated by the Soviets – and not by East Germany during the GDR period – Georg Prinz zur Lippe did not benefit from the restitution law and did not get any of the assets back from the German Government. Instead, be borrow large sums of money and bought the former property back from the current owners. Eventually, he managed to buy back a large portion of the family’s original vineyards.

The story did not end there, however. Georg Prinz zur Lippe was not welcomed with open arms back to his ancestral home. In the minds of many East Germans, “the Georg Prinz zur Lippe family was still the incarnation of evil,” the Prince explained.

Pictures: With Georg Prinz zur Lippe in the Vienyard

“People weren’t happy to see me and I got anonymous threats on the phone,” Georg Prinz zur Lippe said. “The callers said: ‘we got rid of our princes once, and we’ll do it again.’ My car tires were regularly slashed.”

Locals feared they would lose their homes, even though the German Government didn’t return properties seized under orders of Soviet leader Josef Stalin between 1945 and 1949 to former owners like the zur Lippe family.

Fortunately, the local resistance diminished over time, as Georg Prinz zur Lippe started to win the local people over. The sympathetic mayor of the town of Zadel offered to sell Georg Prince zur Lippe a courtyard of historic but dilapidated buildings for their winery. “Over the years a total of 800 people have come forward to sell us small parcels of land that was once ours” said Georg Prinz zur Lippe.

After extensive renovations, Georg Prinz zur Lippe opened a Weingut Schloss Proschwitz there, including a restaurant, where we had dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe. Weingut Schloss Proschwitz was the first in Sachsen to be admitted to the prestigious VDP, Germany’s association of about 200 elite winemakers.

Schloss Proschwitz

After a few wines listening to Goerg Prinz zur Lippe about the tumultuous recent history of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, we walked over to Schloss Proschwitz for a short tour of the chateau.

Pictures: At Schloss Proschwitz

Cellar Tour at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz

From Schloss Proschwitz, we moved to Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, where the Prince gave us a cellar tour.

Pictures: At Weingut Schloss Proschwitz

Tasting with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

We finished the cellar tour in Weingut Schloss Proschwitz’s tasting room, where Georg Prinz zur Lippe took us through the impressive portfolio of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz.

Pictures: Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe, Weingut Schloss Proschwitz

We tasted the following wines:

2012 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Pinot Madeleine Sekt brut
2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Elbling trocken VDP.Gutswein. The Elbing is an ancient and now-unpopular grape variety cultivated since Roman times.
2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Weissburgunder trocken VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Grauburgunder Kabinett trocken VDP.Gutswein
2014 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken VDP.Gutswein
2011 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Grauburgunder trocken VDP.Erste Lage

Dinner

The winery also has an excellent restaurant, the Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, where we had dinner; Prinz zur Lippe joined us for dinner. The dinner with Prinz zur Lippe will be covered in a separate posting: Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen.

Picture: Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at the Lippe'sche Gutshaus (Weingut Schloss Proschwitz)

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen, with Owner Georg Prinz zur Lippe

Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Sachsen

Cellar Tour and Lunch at Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Sachsen

Cellar Tour, Art Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Zimmerling with Winemaker Klaus Zimmerling and Artist Malgorzata Chodakoska in Sachsen

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen, Franken

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Star Winemaker Paul Fürst at Weingut Fürst in Franken

Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Pictures: Klaus Peter and Julia Keller with Timo Seiwert (Pinard de Picard) at Moore Brothers Wine Company, 33 East 20th Street in New York, with Annette Schiller. The Keller Gutsriesling came in as #2.

The BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 took place in June 2015 in Berlin, Germany, orchestrated by Martin Zwick. 37 wines were included in the tasting. They were blind-tasted by a group of sommeliers, wine writers and wine retailers.

Picture: BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015

“Gutsriesling” is a combination of Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Riesling: Rated were wines that fulfilled the two criteria – being a Gutswein and a Riesling (from Germany).

This was the 4th BerlinGutsrieslingCup. See here for the previous years’s results:

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsweinrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013– Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Gutswein

What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification system consists of 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

For more background information, see:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Riesling

There are about 47000 hectares planted with Riesling worldwide. Germany – with 22500 hectares – accounts for about half of the total. The second and third largest Riesling producer are the US (mainly Washington State and Finger Lakes Region) with 4800 hectares and Australia with 4100 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Alsace, Ukraine and Austria follow with 3500 hectares, 2700 hectares and 1900 hectares, respectively.

Overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine. In terms of quality wines, Riesling is usually included in the top three white wine varieties, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is highly terroir-expressive, meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine’s place of origin.

Martin Zwick and his Berlin Cups

Martin Zwick was initially known for organizing the BerlinRieslingCup every year. The BerlinRieslingCup is about Germany’s ultra-premium dry grand cru (Grosses Gewaechs) Rieslings from Grosse Lage vineyards. It typically takes place in the second half of September, following the release of the Grosses Gewaechs wines of the previous year.

In the following years, he added 3 other Berlin Cups: The BerlinGutsrieslingCup, which reviews and rates entry-level Rieslings. The BerlinKabinettCup: A ranking of off-dry, light Rieslings that carry the Kabinett predicate. Finally, the BerlinSpätburgunderCup, a ranking of German Pinot Noirs.

Thus, there are now 4 BerlinCups: BerlinRieslingCup, BerlinGutsRieslingCup, BerlinKabinettCup and BerlinSpätburgunderCup.

BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015: Ranking

Picture: The Winners of the BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015

Bürklin-Wolf 87 Punkte
Keller 86 Punkte
St Antony "Rotschiefer" 86 Punkte
Kai Schätzel 86 Punkte
Wittmann 85 Punkte
J.B. Schäfer 85 Punkte
A.J. Adam 85 Punkte
A. Christmann 85 Punkte
Jülg 85 Punkte
Emrich-Schönleber 84 Punkte
G. Mosbacher 84 Punkte
Seehof 84 Punkte
Wagner-Stempel 84 Punkte
Klaus Meyer 84 Punkte
Battenfeld-Spanier Eisbach 84 Punkte
Battenfeld-Spanier 84 Punkte
von Winning WinWin 84 Punkte
Thörle 84 Punkte
Kühling-Gillot Quinterra 84 Punkte
K-H Gaul 84 Punkte
Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack 84 Punkte
Müller-Catoir 84 Punkte
Michel 83 Punkte
Markus Hees „Sandstein“ 83 Punkte
Flick 83 Punkte
Dönnhoff 83 Punkte
Diel 83 Punkte
Weil 83 Punkte
Schäfer-Fröhlich 82 Punkte
Meierer 82 Punkte
Weedenborn 82 Punkte
Katrin Wind 82 Punkte
Gunderloch 82 Punkte
Thomas Pfaffmann WAGECK Tertiär 82 Punkte
Katharina Wechsler 82 Punkte
Josten&Klein 82 Punkte
R. v. Buhl 81 Punkte

Comments

Martin Zwick and other Tasters reported that there was a strong consensus that the Weingut Bürklin-Wolf Gutsriesling was the best. There was quite a distance between the 2 following wines (Keller and Sankt Antony), which kind of shared the #2 spot because they were very close in the ranking and that in the view of most tasters. From #4 downwards there were quite a number of wines were the views of the tasters differed significantly.

Markus Budai

Here are the notes of Markus Budai (in German) on the 3 top wines. Markus Budai was a member of the tasting panel and reported about the tasting on his blog.

Platz 1: Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling trocken 2014:

Die Trauben stammen aus Anlagen in Wachenheim, Deidesheim und Ruppertsberg. Ausbau fand sowohl im Edelstahl, als auch Doppelstück-Holzfass statt. Helles gold mit Reflexen. Im Bukett reife Frucht, mürber Apfel, reife Nektarine und gelbe Pflaumen. Am Gaumen zieht sich eine angenehme Phenolik entlang des Weins, etwas Grapefruit gesellt sich dazu. Für mich ein ganz typischer Pfälzer Riesling. Er wirkt ob der Struktur und Länge im Abgang athletisch. Angenehmes Spiel mit der Reife und herben Art des Gutsrieslings, machen den Wein zugänglich. Sehr verständlicher Gutsriesling! Davon kann man eine Flasche trinken!

Platz 2: Keller, Riesling trocken, 2014:

Eher zartes hellgold mit silbernen Reflexen. Die Nase verkörpert Äpfel und satte Steinobstfrucht. Dann kommt noch Grapefruit hinzu, auch Zitronen, etwas Salz und helle Blüten. Am Gaumen geprägt von schlankem Körper, super ruhig und harmonisch. Dicht verwobene Aromatik, etwas Grüntee, reife Birne, wieder etwas Zitrusfrucht. Dahinter klemmt sich eine feine Würzigkeit und gut integrierte Säure. Wird geleitet von einer hauchfeinen, sehr dezenten Phenolik und erscheint wie aus einem Guss. Enorm saftige Frucht, die dem Wein seinen Trinkfluss verleiht. Ein ausgesprochen vielschichtiger Gutswein.

Platz 3: Sankt Antony, Riesling “Rotschiefer”, 2014:

Riesling aus alten Reben. Spontane Vergärung, Ausbau in alten Doppelstückfässern und Stahltank. Keine Maischestandzeit, langsames Pressen. Tieferes vollgold, im Bukett Grapefruit, auch kräutrige Anklänge, etwas Schieferwürze. Auch am Gaumen wirkt der Rotschiefer enorm komplex. Etwas Zitrus- und Orangenschale, Tee und Nektarine bescheren Trinkfluss und Saftigkeit. Sehr verspielt und trotzdem bestens balanciert, fast schon erhaben wirkend. Ein Riesling mit Profil!

Tasting Panel

Katharina Racek – Weingut Dr. Loosen
Paula Reedes Sidore – Journalistin
Christoph Raffelt – Originalverkorkt.de
Frank Ebbinghaus – Stuart Pigott WEINHIER
Tom Schramm – Belvini.de
Florian Moosbauer – Planet Wein, Berlin
Jürgen Klucken – Riesling-Liebhaber
Michael Rausche – Riesling-Liebhaber
Johannes Baumann – Riesling-Liebhaber
Markus Budai – Weinwisser/ Budi’s Foodblog/ Gute Weine

schiller-wine: Related Postings (Berlin Cups)

Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2014, Germany
Germany’s Best Ultra-premium Dry Riesling Wines - BerlinRieslingCup 2013, Germany
Germany’s Ultra Premium Dry Riesling Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2012
Germany’s Top Wines – The Berlin Riesling Cup 2011 Ranking

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsweinrieslingCup 2014 - Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers
BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2013– Rating Entry-level Rieslings from Germany
Berlin Gutsriesling Cup 2012, Germany

Martin Zwick's BerlinKabinettCup 2014, Germany
BerlinKabinettCup 2013 - Kabinett 2012, Germany

Germany's Best Pinot Noir Wines - BerlinSpätburgunderCup 2012/2014
BerlinSpaetburgunderCup 2011/2013, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

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German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

Wine Consumption: Do Germans Drink Sweet or Dry Wine?

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VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

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Picture: Annette Schiller with our Host Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave, of Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais

Situated in the heart of Fuissé, Domaine Ferret has long been a producer of top Pouilly-Fuissé cuvées. The estate was managed by the Ferret family from its founding in 1840 until it was purchased by Louis Jadot in 2008.

Pictures: Approaching Pouilly-Fuissé

We took a quick vineyard tour, followed by a visit of the old estate and the newly constructed modern winery, were we had a tasting. Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave, was our host.

Picture: In Fuissé - Pouilly-Fuissé

See also:
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Domaine Ferret

Domaine Ferret has played a key role in defining the quality of the region. It was the first Domaine in Pouilly-Fuissé to begin bottling on the estate, shortly after the Second World War. Further, its long-standing focus on vinifying each parcel of vines separately has allowed for the identification of the top terroirs.

Pictures: At Domaine Ferret

The Domaine Ferret portfolio falls into three tiers: Classic, Têtes de Cru and Cuvée Hors-Classe. The Tête de Cru and Hors-Classe parcels that have been identified are a precursor to the stratification of the appellation system (which is currently under consideration by the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine). As in the Côte d’Or, the wines in each range reflect their particular terroir, and these top cuvées are produced only in great vintages.

Under the formidable leadership of Jeanne Ferret, who ran the house with a rod of iron for half a century, Domaine Ferret became a major force in the region. She was well into her eighties and still very much in charge when her daughter, Colette, joined her in 1992. Jeanne Ferret died in 1993. Colette Ferret died in 2007, leaving no heirs, and so after 150 years in the Ferret family, the Domaine was put up for sale. When Louis Jadot bought Domaine Ferret in 2008, Audrey Braccini was appointed Winemaker and General Manager of Domaine Ferret.

Audrey Braccini

Audrey Braccini was born in 1979 in the Lorraine region of northeast France, where she grew up admiring her father’s dedication to cultivating his wine cellar. Inspired by his passion, Audrey Braccini moved to the heart of the renowned wine region of Languedoc-Roussillon, and enrolled in Montpellier University’s prestigious enology program. After successfully earning a master’s degree in vineyards and wine, she launched her career in Beaujolais the Fleurie Co-operative. In 2008, Braccini’s talents earned her the position of Managing Director and Winemaker for the historic Domaine Ferret estate in the nearby Mâconnais region. Drawing on her years of experience and expertise, she dove headfirst into the regional Chardonnay and Pouilly-Fuissé appellations.

Audrey has made many small changes, for example trying to avoid using commercial yeasts, whereas before 2008 Ferret used only commercial yeast, chosen for reliability. And Louis Jadot has made an extensive investment too: we took a five minute stroll from the original winery to a slick, efficient and modern new winery tucked behind a village wall. It opened just in time for the 2012 harvest and gives Audrey a huge amount of extra space to work with, and complete control with three bladder presses so grapes never have to wait to be pressed, and an all gravity-flow winery built on site that slopes four-metres from front to back of the winery.

Since 1840 Domaine Ferret has had an uninterrupted tradition of women as directors/winemakers, a tradition that has been continued by Audrey Braccini since 2008.

Vineyards

The Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards lie on a narrow band of land in southern Burgundy. Since the creation of the appellation in 1936, only wines from the villages of Chaintré, Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly and Vergisson are authorized to bear the Pouilly-Fuissé name. Domaine Ferret’s estate vineyards are comprised of 18 hectares throughout the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation; 14 of these are located in the amphitheater of hills surrounding the town of Fuissé and 4 are near the Roche de Vergisson, in the north of the appellation.

Pictures: In the Vineyards

The spectrum of rocks present in Fuissé is the most diverse within the Maconnais, and the Ferret vineyards, which are spread across the appellation's entire range of soil types, is one of its best ambassadors. The soils can be poor, made up of hard limestone and even calcite, but they can also be richer clays, based on alluvial marl deposits, schist's and even volcanic-sedimentary pebbles. More than 330 million years separate the most ancient of these rocks from the most recent deposits. These foundation rocks, located on the eastern fringe of the Beauregard plateau, are made up of limestone deposited by ancient lakes.

Domaine Ferret practices sustainable viticulture. This basic level of green viticulture shows an awareness of the need to preserve the environment, promote biodiversity and maintain soil health by minimizing the use of chemical treatments, among other approaches.

Pictures: In the old Cellar of Domaine Ferret

Louis Jadot

Domaine Ferret is owned by Maison Louis Jadot. Maison Louis Jadot was founded by Louis Henry Denis Jadot in 1859 and is a family wine company that produces and markets Burgundy wine. It operates both its own vineyards and also buys grapes from many growers. It controls 270 hectares of vineyards in Burgundy (including Beaujolais Crus) and produces only AOC wines.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

In 1985 Maison Louis Jadot - excluding the vineyards, which remained the property of the Jadot and Gagey families - was sold to the family of Rudy Kopf, who also own Kobrand, Jadot’s US importer.

In 1997, Maison Louis Jadot ventured outside of the Beaune region for the first time, purchasing the substantial holdings of Chateau des Jacques in the Beaujolais, one of the most important estates of the Moulin-à-Vent appelation.

Picture: Christian and Annette Schiller with our Host Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

Today, Maison Louis Jadot controls 225 hectares of vineyards in Burgundy, of which 119 hectares lie in the Côte d'Or: Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey and Domaine du Duc de Magenta.

The Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot has long belonged to the Jadot family. Domaine Louis Jadot grew in 1985 with the purchase of Domaine Clair Daü. Domaine Gagey has belonged to André Gagey's family for generations. The Domaine du Duc de Magenta belongs to an established Burgundian family that has given Maison Louis Jadot the right to vinify and sell the wines from its vineyards of Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle and Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Garenne. Maison Louis Jadot is settled in Beaujolais since 1996: the Château des Jacques property includes 80 hectares of Moulin à Vent, Morgon, Fleurie and Chénas. In 2008, Maison Louis Jadot bought Domaine Ferret, which is located in the heart of the Pouilly Fuissé appellation.

Pictures: Walking over from the old Domaine to the new Winery

Kobrand and the Kopf Family

Kobrand is owned by the 3 daughters of the firm's founder, Rudolph C. Kopf. Kopf was born in the Queens in New York City and graduated from the University of Columbia's Business School in 1927. All his youth, he lived under prohibition. Prohibition was repealed by President Franklin Roosevelt, when he took office in 1933. It was in that year that Kopf started a wine and spirits department at New York's famed Macy's department store. Under his guidance, it became known as one of the best shops in the country and Kopf established himself as an industry force.

In 1944, at the age of 38, he struck out on his own and formed his own wine and spirits marketing company, which he called the Kobrand Corporation. Although light on money, Kopf was well connected, having established relationships in the wine and spirits business around the world.

Pictures: Visit of the new Winery of Domaine Ferret

Kopf's big break came in 1945 when he lined up his first major wine brand to represent, Maison Louis Jadot, which was established in France in 1859. With the Jadot business in hand, Kopf's next notable achievement was landing a spirits brand: Beefeater Gin. A third key brand acquisition in another important category, champagne, took place shortly after the Beefeater deal, when Kopf secured the marketing rights to Taittinger Champagne.

In 1985, Kobrand bought Maison Louis Jadot. Only a few months after the Jadot deal was completed, Kopf died at age 80 and his three daughters shared in the ownership of Kobrand. Also in 1985 Kobrand acquired its first stake in a California company, Napa Valley's Sequoia Grove Vineyards. A year later, Kobrand turned its attention to Northern California, forming a joint venture with Taittinger called Domaine Carneros. Kobrand added further to its California interests in 1987 when it reached a marketing agreement with Cakebread Cellars.

The year 1987 also marked the end of the relationship with Beefeater Gin. In the late 1980s and early 1990s Kobrand added a host of brands, making the firm a major marketer of Italian wines. These labels included Sassicala, Ornellaia, Terriccio, Spalletti, and Chiehe Chiarlo.

Kobrand continues to be a family company, owned by the founders three daughters.

Pictures: Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

Tasting

At the end of the tour of the new winery, we were offered a tasting in the winery. We tasted the following wines.

2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé

The Pouilly-Fuissé is a blend of the best vineyard parcels with 10- to 35-year-old vines from the Fuissé amphitheater of limestone and clay soils. Each parcel is vinified separately to ensure the finest expression of the fruit. Half the wine is fermented in enameled tanks and half in used oak barrels.

Subtle notes include minerals, yellow fruits, flowers, fresh hazelnuts and spices, with an intense finish. The perfect equilibrium of this wine allows it to retain its vibrancy with age.

2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Le Clos

Situated between the winery building and Fuissé’s old church, the Le Clos parcel is 1.65 acres, and one of few parcels to enjoy an exposure to the east. Half of its vines are 20 years old, while the other half are at least 40 years of age. They grow on a thin topsoil covering limestone and shale. The wine is fermented in oak barrels and sees significant barrel maturation, a part of it on the lees.

This is a powerful wine that offers refined flavors of fresh almond, apricot, yellow fruit and minerals. Overall it is vivacious and balanced, with an exceptional, intense finish.

2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Les Perrières

Les Perrières is situated on a sloping southeast exposure just above the Le Clos parcel, and has limestone and young clay soils. The vines are an average of 35 years old. The wine is fermented in oak barrels before further barrel maturation, a part of it on the lees.

Opens with floral and spice notes on the nose and palate. A generous, creamy mouthfeel complements a nice ripeness and intense richness. The wine is ample, smooth and well balanced, with a vivid, spicy finish. With age, it will gain in richness and fully reveal itself.

2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Les Ménétrières

Les Ménétrières is a southeast-facing vineyard less than one hectare in size that borders the village of Fuissé. One third of the vines are 40 years old; one third are 20, and a third are 10. The upper half of the vineyard is planted on shale, while the lower half is planted on pearly slabs. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, a mix of deep silt and clay with few stones. The subsoil features streaks of limestone and limestone marls, while top layers are rich in stone-free limestone deposits and light marls. Fermentation takes place in oak barrels, of which 20% are new, and is followed by a period of six months’ aging on fine lees.

Superbly rich and generous, the wine has aromas of subtle cream blended with rich Chardonnay fruit, with honey notes. On the palate, ripe fruit, toast and quince paste punctuate a full-bodied, generous rich wine that is powerful, intense and vivid, with a long, haunting finish. The wine will benefit from further maturing in bottle.

2013 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Hors-Classe Tournant de Pouilly

Situated in the northern Fuissé region, bordering on the hamlet of Pouilly, the Tournant de Pouilly vineyard of just under one hectare lies on an east-facing slope. Old vines of an average 50 years old are planted along a narrow band of pearly slabs of fossilized oyster shells that twist their way between Fuissé and Pouilly, which give this wine a linear, mineral character. There is deep, limestone-rich silt and clay containing a few stones, as well. Fermentation takes place in oak barrels, of which 20% are new, and is followed by a period of six months’ aging on fine.

Aromas of grilled almonds and lime-leaf tea with notes of wax preced rich, luxurious flavors on the palate, balanced by precise minerality. The finish is particularly long and intense, and this wine can age for 10-15 years.

Bye-bye

Thank you very much Cyril Laumain for an exceptional visit and tasting.

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

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Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave

Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Vineyard Walk Cellar Tour and Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

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Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion

Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey Chambertin: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Jean-Michel Guillon

Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

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In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France

Picture: Christian Schiller, Pierre Lurton, Château Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion and Château d'Yquem, Sauternes, and Alfred Tesseron, Château Pontet-Canet, in Washington DC (2015)

See:
Bordeaux Rendezvous in Washington DC: Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction 2015

There are a number of classifications of the wines made in the Bordeaux region. Some apply to the whole area, others to just parts of it. The best known is without any doubt the 1855 Médoc Classification. The least known is probably the Liv-ex Bordeaux Classification, which arguably is the most important one. This is a classification of Left Bank red Bordeaux wine based on current prices, compiled by the London International Vintners Exchange (Liv-ex), with a view of updating the 1855 classification. The first one was established in 2009; it was updated in 2011, 2013 and again this year.

Liv-ex is an internet-based trading platform for top-quality wines; it was founded in 1999 by James Miles and Justin Gibbs, who used to be stock brokers. The trading platform is only accessible for professional wine trading houses and wine funds against an annual membership fee.

Pictures: Lunch with Owner Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville Poyferré (2013)

Medoc Classification of 1855

The 1855 classification was made at the request of Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris. The Brokers returned their classification just two weeks after the original request was made. The Medoc classification of 1855 covers (with one exception) red wines of Médoc.

It ranked the wines into five categories, strictly according to price.

The famous 5 first growths are:

• Château Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac
• Château Margaux in Margaux
• Château Latour in Pauillac
• Château Haut-Brion in Péssac-Leognan
• Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac, promoted from second to first growth in 1973.

And there are:

14 Deuxièmes (2nd) Crus
14 Troisièmes (3rd) Crus
10 Quatrièmes (4rd) Crus
18 Cinquièmes (5th) Crus.

See also:
Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics

Pictures: With Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac in Margaux

Liv-ex Classification

In 2009, Liv-ex decided to recreate the 1855 classification, ranking major Left Bank wines in terms of their price. In 2011 and then in 2013, the classification was updated to reflect the market, and now that the market has shifted again Liv-ex once again recreated the classification to reflect current trading conditions.

See also:
The Liv-ex 2013 Médoc Classification

To qualify for the Liv-ex Bordeaux Classification, wines had to be from the Left Bank (including Pessac-Leognan) and be produced in quantities of more than 2,000 cases. Only the first wine of each estate was considered. Liv-ex then calculated the average case price for every qualifying wine for the past five vintages, 2007-2011. Prices are in GBP (1GBP = 1.55US$).

As the brokers did in 1855 Liv-ex split up the wines according to price bands, which for 2015 are as follows:

1st Growths: £2,000 a case and above
2nd Growths: £550 to £1,999
3rd Growths: £350 to £549
4th Growths: £250 to £349
5th Growths: £200 to £249

These price bands were modified from those used in 2013. Liv ex compared the average prices of all wines included in 2013 with the average prices of those in 2015. The average price change was a drop of 18% (with Lafite the biggest loser: minus 41%). This price change has been applied to the price bands used in 2013.

Liv-ex Bordeaux Classification of 2015

Latour remains atop the chart, followed by Lafite Rothschild, Haut Brion, Margaux, Mouton Rothschild and Mission Haut-Brion, all in the 2015 Liv-ex First Growth group.

Upward movers included Haut Bailly (with a decline of just 1% in its average case price from £672 to £677) from 3rd Growth in 2013 to 2nd Growth in 2015.

Malescot Saint Exupery, Grand Puy Lacoste and Domaine de Chevalier all also moved up one ranking from the last 2013 issue, from 4th Growth to 3rd.

Batailley was the biggest riser of all going from fifth to fourth growth status with a leap from 52nd to 41st place on the list.

Marquis Alesme Becker and Croizet Bages were the only wines to drop out of the list.

Chateaux Gloria and Phelan Segur made their first entry, as 5th Growths.

Picture: With Wine Maker Arnaud Lasisz at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan

Second Wines

Interestingly, Liv-ex has also put the second wines, none of which existed in 1855, through the same system.

This year, all of the First Growths’ second wines held on to their positions as second growths and remain in the same price order as in 2013. Alter Ego moves from a third to a second growth while four wines newly become fourth growths, and Petit Lion de Las Cases – which first featured on the table in 2013 – drops to fifth.

Right Bank Wines

The 1855 Classification did not include any wines from the Right Bank.

Once again, Petrus, Pin, Ausone, Lafleur and Cheval Blanc have been classed as First Growths in the Liv-ex 2015 ranking. The only wine to move between classifications this year is Angelus. With an average price of £2,019 per 12x75, it becomes a First Growth by a small margin: this year’s boundary is £2,000.

Pavie – which was upgraded to St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A in 2012 alongside Angelus – remains a Second Growth.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, with Count Stefan von Neipperg in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière

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An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffeliere, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé, France

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Visit of an Ultra-premium Non-mainstream Bordeaux Producer: Tertre Rôteboeuf, with Owner and Winemaker François Mitjavile

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Lunch, Tour and Tasting with Owner Catherine Thibault d'Halluin (nee Boyer) and Winemaker Julien Noel - Château du Cros, Château Mayne du Cros, Château Courbon and Clos Bourbon, Bordeaux, France

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A Tour and Tasting at Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc, with Co-owner Frédéric Vicaire, France

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Picture: Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at the Lippe'sche Gutshaus

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz in Zadel is both the oldest and the largest privately owned wine producer in Saxony. Its owner, Prof. Dr. Georg Prinz zur Lippe, rebuilt the estate from scratch step by step, following the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.

We spent 7 hours with Prinz zur Lippe on the tour. We started with a couple of wines in the Weinbergshäuschen (a little house in the vineyard), overlooking the city of Meissen. From there, we moved to Schloss Proschwitz, where Prinz zur Lippe gave us a quick tour of the chateau. Next was the winery, where Prinz zur Lippe gave us a tour of winery, followed by an extensive tasting with Prinz zur Lippe in the tasting room of the winery. I have already covered that part of our visit

here: Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The winery also has an excellent restaurant, the Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, where we had dinner; Prinz zur Lippe joined us for dinner. This posting covers the dinner with Prinz zur Lippe.

During the dinner, of course, we continued to talk about the Sachsen wine region, the history of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz and the tumultuous years after the Russian occupation of East Germany and after the reunification of the 2 Germanys.

Sachsen (Saxony)

Sachsen, located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. Most of the region’s vines are planted on terraces along the River Elbe, and being at such a gradient, a lot of the work is done by hand. For 8 centuries, vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and Riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites.

Meissen porcelain, known locally as “white gold,” is one of the things Sachsen is best known for, being the first place in Europe to make china in the early 18th century.

Picture: Meissen

Anette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

Pictures: Dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe at the Lippe'sche Gutshaus

The Communist Period and German Reunification

Before the 2. World War, the von Lippe family was one of the richest family in Saxony, with holdings in various sectors, including wine making. When the Soviet Red Army invaded eastern Germany in 1945, the parents of Georg Prinz zur Lippe were expropriated and imprisoned. Fortunately, although the communists hated royalty and routinely executed royals they captures, they were not murdered, but – after a period of imprisonment in Saxony - were able to leave to the western part of Germany. There, as a refugees without any means (lie so many others, including my parents), Christian Prinz zur Lippe had to start a new live. Initially, he took a job as a gardener. Obviously, his son, Georg Prinz zur Lippe was not raised in abashed luxury. Georg Prinz zur Lippe pursued a successful career as an agricultural engineer.

Then, the Berlin Wall fell. Christian Prinz zur Lippe suggested that Georg attempt to recover the family’s property in East Germany. But because the property had been expropriated by the Soviets – and not by East Germany during the GDR period – Georg Prinz zur Lippe did not benefit from the restitution law and did not get any of the assets back from the German Government. Instead, be borrow large sums of money and bought the former property back from the current owners. Eventually, he managed to buy back a large portion of the family’s original vineyards.

The story did not end there, however. Georg Prinz zur Lippe was not welcomed with open arms back to his ancestral home. In the minds of many East Germans, “the Georg Prinz zur Lippe family was still the incarnation of evil,” the Prince explained.

“People weren’t happy to see me and I got anonymous threats on the phone,” Georg Prinz zur Lippe said. “The callers said: ‘we got rid of our princes once, and we’ll do it again.’ My car tires were regularly slashed.”

Pictures: Before the Dinner

See here: Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Locals feared they would lose their homes, even though the German Government didn’t return properties seized under orders of Soviet leader Josef Stalin between 1945 and 1949 to former owners like the zur Lippe family.

Fortunately, the local resistance diminished over time, as Georg Prinz zur Lippe started to win the local people over. The sympathetic mayor of the town of Zadel offered to sell Georg Prince zur Lippe a courtyard of historic but dilapidated buildings for their winery. “Over the years a total of 800 people have come forward to sell us small parcels of land that was once ours” said Georg Prinz zur Lippe.

After extensive renovations, Georg Prinz zur Lippe opened a Weingut Schloss Proschwitz there, including a restaurant, where we had dinner with Georg Prinz zur Lippe. Weingut Schloss Proschwitz was the first in Sachsen to be admitted to the prestigious VDP, Germany’s association of about 200 elite winemakers.

Dinner at the Lippe’sche Gutshaus

The winery also has an excellent restaurant, the Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, where we had dinner; Prinz zur Lippe joined us for dinner. During the dinner, of course, we continued to talk about the Sachsen wine region, the history of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz and the tumultuous years after the Russian occupation of East Germany and after the reunification of the 2 Germanys.

Falstaff: In the historic, stylishly renovated and well-furnished Lippesche Gutshaus of Schloss Proschwitz, you find regional and while refined dishes made from fresh ingredients on the menu. The exquisite wines of the prestigious winery Weingut Schloss Proschwitz go very well with the superb food.

The Lippe’sche Gutshaus also has 10 rooms and 2 apartments.

Pictures: Dinner at the Lippe'sches Gutshaus, Schloss Proschwitz, with Georg Prinz zur Lippe

The wines:

2013 Weinhaus zu Weimar Sauvignon Blanc
2012 Weingut Schloss Proschwitz Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs trocken VDP.Grosse Lage

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Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

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Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Christian Schiller Ready for the Guests at their 2015 Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC (McLean, Virginia)

Our annual Riesling Party took place on August 8, 2015 at our residence in McLean in Virginia in the Washington DC area.

We invited through facebook and Annette Schiller’s Washington DC data base, which is essentially a list of wine lovers we have met over the years at wine dinners, German Wine Society events, American Wine Society events and other occasions in the Washington DC area. 75 wine lovers joined us with 75 Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. The food was basic, but much appreciated: German Knackwurst with Potato Salad.

Our special guest this year was Denman Zirkle, Managing Partner of Weingut Böcking in the Mosel Valley, who poured top wines from his Mosel estate.

Picture: Denman Zirkle, Managing Partner of Weingut Böcking in the Mosel Valley, and Christian Schiller at Schiller's Annual Riesling Party (2015) in Washington DC (McLean, Virginia)

Invitation

Dear wine friends,

some of you already asked: when is the Riesling party this year.

Here it is:

You are invited to join us for the

RIESLING PARTY
Saturday, August 08
5 PM - 10 PM

Entrance Fee: one bottle of Riesling per person. However if you are not such a fan of Riesling, feel free to bring a Pinot-Noir.

We will contribute some nice German Rieslings as well as a German Pinot-Noir and to quench the appetite while tasting all those wines: a selection of cheeses, cold cuts, German sausages, German potato salad, and bread.

We are very much looking forward to having you at our house (please send a RSVP mail and in return we will mail you our address) to taste and discuss all those wines and to have lots of laughter and fun.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, 2013/2014 German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner and Christian Schiller at Last Year's Riesling Party in Washington DC.

See:
Riesling Summer at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2014)
Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA (2013)

The Wines

75 wine lovers joined us and brought 75 Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. 15 people brought reds, some of amazing quality, up to a Corton Grand Cru by Louis Jadot.

Picture: 100 Glasses

Of the remaining 60 bottles, 40 were from Germany. The lion share of the German wine was sweet-style Rieslings from the Mosel, including some very special wines, like Scharzhofberger from Egon Müller and von Hövel. Contrary to last year, within the group of German Rieslings, there were very few dry wines. I was very pleased with one guest who brought an excellent VDP.Ortswein (village wines) of Weingut Clemens Busch, in my view the perfect wine for a gathering like our Riesling Party.

The remaining 20 bottles were essentially from Alsace and from the US. The American Rieslings included some interesting wines from the West Coast (Washington State and Oregon), while there was not a single Finger Lakes Riesling.

Picture: 75 Bottles ot Schiller's 2015 Riesling Party

Picture: Some of the fruity-sweet German Riesling at Schiller's 2015 Riesling Party

Picture: Some of the Pinot Noirs at Schiller's 2015 Riesling Party

Picture: Some of the American Rieslings at Schiller 2015 Riesling Party

Picture: Some of the Alsatian Rieslings at Schiller's 2015 Riesling Party

Picture: Some of the German Entry-level Rieslings at Schiller's 2015 Riesling Party

Special Guest: Owner Denman Zirkle of Weingut Richard Böcking

Last year, we were honored by the visit of the 2013/14 German Wine Princes Sabine Wagner. The year before, Austrian Wine Importer Klaus Wittauer presented his portfolio to the guests. This year, Managing Partner Denman Zirkle showed us the wines of Weingut Richard Böcking.

Picture: Weingut Richard Böcking in Traben-Trabach, Mosel

Denman Zirkle is the driving force behind the revival of Weingut Richard Böcking in the Mosel. Denman Zirkle, a Virginia-based American, married into the Richard Böckling family while he was on an external assignment for IBM in Frankfurt. Since then, he has been a regular in the Mosel valley at Weingut Richard Böcking, with his late wife and their daughter Sigrid Carroll, who also grew up in the US.

In 2010, a decision faced the descendants of the Böckings, including Denman Zirkle and Sigrid Caroll: sell the traditional but marginally profitable winery and the accompanying vineyards, or pursue a new vision and awaken the winery to a new beginning? They opted for the latter and are now in the process of reestablishing the glory of Weingut Richard Böcking.

Pictures: Denman Zirkle, Weingut Richard Böcking, Pouring his Wines

Denman Zirkle: Since 1624 the Böcking Family has been devoted to producing wines of the highest quality – crisp, fruity wines that are the finest a Riesling enthusiast can desire. The roots of the Böcking family can be traced to the early 17th Century, when the family was appointed regional treasurer under Prince Pfälz-Zweibrücken. Soon thereafter, the family became active in the budding wine production and trading business in Trabach, purchasing what may be the oldest Riesling vineyard on the Mosel, the Trabacher Ungsberg. The Trarbacher Schlossberg vineyard was purchased soon thereafter.

Pictures: Denman Zirkle, Weingut Richard Böcking, with Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Panos Kakaviatos (Wine Chronicles and Decanter)

A few months ago, Weingut Richard Böcking got a nice write up in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (February 2015): Since 2011, Leweke Freifrau von Marschall, Denman Zirkle and Sigrid Carroll with winemaker Simon Trös, are trying to link to the great tradition of the Richard Böcking estate in Traben-Trarbach that was established in 1623, and made the Trarbacher Ungsberg (which was 50% planted with Riesling already in 1669) to one of the most prestigious vineyard sites in the Mosel until the late 18th century. For this report I tasted two vintages of the three Trarbach grands crus from ungrafted vines: Ungsberg, Schlossberg and Burgberg. Traditionally made in fuders or old barriques and kept on the lees until late July after the harvest, this is an estate to watch. - Stephan Reinhardt" - Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate (Issue #217, February 2015).

Picture: The Weingut Richard Böckling Wines Denman Zirkle Poured

German Knackwurst and Potato Salad

The food was German Knackwurst with Potato Salad, the way Annette’s mother did it. I like it a bit different, i.e. the way my mother did it, but Annette’s Potato Salad was delicious.

Picture: Binkert Knackwurst with Potato Salad

Pictures: Egon Binkert in Baltimore

The German Knackwurst was from Binkert in Baltimore. I drove all the way to their store the day before to buy 120 Knackwursts. They were all gone at the end of the party.

Riesling

Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares.

Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall, Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.

Pictures: The 2015 Schiller Riesling Party in Washington DC

Dry and Sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes.

The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these specialty wine, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.

Pictures: The 2015 Schiller Riesling Party in Washington DC

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. These are exceptional wines, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.

Pictures: The 2015 Schiller Riesling Party in Washington DC

Red Wine Revolution in Germany

There is a red wine revolution going on in Germany and the world increasingly takes note of it. Of course, given its location, the red wines of Germany tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, the share of red wine in total German wine output was not more than 10 percent; in the international wine scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this is changing. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world; the share of red wines in terms of production has increased to about 35 percent now in Germany and increasingly the international market takes note of what is happening in Germany.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Members of the American Wine Society

Picture: Janet Cam, see: Sekt and Food Pairing with Janet Cam in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller with Frank and Tony Colemann, see: American Whiskey Producers in Germany

Picture: Denman and Susan Zirkle, Weingut Böcking, Carl Willner, President of the German Wine Society in Washington DC, and Panos Kakaviatos, Wine Chronicles and Decanter

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, Wine Educator Rob Stewart and Panos Kakaviatos, Wine Chronicles and Decanter

Pinot Noir in Germany

Today, Germany is the third biggest producer of Pinot Noir (called Spaetburgunder in Germany), after France and the US, with more planted than Australia and New Zealand combined. However, despite being the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir, the country exports just over 1% of its production.

Pictures: The End

Thanks

Thanks to all our guests, who brought wonderful wine and a special thank to Mark J. Dryfoos, who came all the way down from New Jersey for the Riesling Party. Mark was on the last Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours and plans to come on the next Burgundy Tour by ombiasy WineTours.

Picture: Christian Schiller, Mark J. Dryfoos and Annette Schiller

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

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German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)

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Riesling Summer at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller at the Abbey of Cluny

Following the visit of Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, we drove to Cluny and had a wonderful lunch at the Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny, before visiting the Abbey of Cluny.

See:
Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Hostellerie d’Héloise

The Hostellerie d’Héloise is a real gem, situated in a stately building dating from the end of the 1800's. I love the warm atmosphere and timeless charm in this simple, family run hotel which offers comfortable rooms and delicious gastronomy.

Pictures: At Restaurant Hostellerie d’Héloïse in Cluny with Owners Nathalie and Chef Patrick Dutarte

Les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN: Un établissement convivial et joliment rétro ! Les Héloïse et Abélard d'aujourd'hui pourront y savourer une cuisine traditionnelle et régionale d'une belle finesse... Et pour l'étape, quelques chambres bien tenues.

Logis de France: Situé à l’entrée sud de Cluny, à quelques minutes du centre ville et de l’Abbaye, et au départ de la Voie Verte, l’Hostellerie d’Héloïse vous accueille dans un cadre chaleureux (Jadis, renommée). … Pour un déjeuner ou un dîner en toute convivialité, l’Hostellerie d’Héloïse vous accueille dans ses deux salles de restaurants aux ambiances tout à fait différentes et chaleureuses. Vous apprécierez la simplicité des plats des terroirs français et le raffinement d’une cuisine travaillée avec en accord une sélection de vins de propriétaires de la région et d’ailleurs.

The Abbey at Cluny

Founded in 910 by Benedictine monks who wished to observe closer adherence to the Benedictine rule, the Cluny was the center of a monastic reform movement that would spread throughout Europe. Finished during the 12th century, Cluny Abbey remained the largest religious building in the entire Christian world until Saint Peter’s in Rome was constructed.

Pictures: The Abbey of Cluny

At its height of its influence in the 12th century, Cluny was the mother house for over 1000 monasteries with 10,000 monks. The abbots of Cluny were almost as powerful as popes, and four of them later became popes. In 1098, Pope Urban II (himself a Cluniac) declared that Cluny was the "light of the world."

Picture: Cluny

But new and more austere orders such as the Cistercians were generating the next wave of ecclesiastical reform. At the same time, the rise of English and French nationalism created a climate unfavorable to the existence of monasteries autocratically ruled by a leader residing in Burgundy.

By the time of the French Revolution, the monks of Cluny were so thoroughly identified with the Ancien Régime that the order was suppressed in France. The abbey was used as a stone quarry and systematically dismantled until 1823. Thus, today, the only vestiges of this imposing great religious edifice are the sections built between the middle ages and the French revolution and the southern bell tower of the main transept – a mere 10% of the original abbey.

Thanks

As always, the lunch was excellent.Thanks Chef Patrick Dutarte.

Picture: Annette Schiller and Chef Patrick Dutarte at a previous Visit

Postings on the Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France (Posted and Forthcoming)

Preview: Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015 and 2016)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé-sur-Seine: Tour and Tasting with Jean Pierre Josselin - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Wines of Tonnerre, France – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet in Maligny, Chablis: Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny

Domaine Theulot Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Nathalie and Jean-Claude Theulot

Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet: Vineyard Walk Cellar Tour and Lunch with Wine Tasting at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive with Patrick Leflaive

Wine Tasting at Domaine Mestre Père & Fils in Santenay with Jonathan Maestre

Visit: Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils in Beaune

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne

Visit: Musée de l’Hospice de Beaune with Karoline Knoth, M.A.

Domaine A-F Gros in Beaune: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Owner and Winemaker Mathias Parent

Visit: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune

Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Mathilde Nicolas (Brand Ambassador)

Wine Tasting at Domaine du Château de Prémeaux in Nuits Saint Georges with Owner and Winemaker Arnaud Pelletier

Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanée: Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Bernard Rion and Alice Rion

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Visit: Château du Clos de Vougeot

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Picture: Denman Zirkle and Annette Schiller ombiasyPR and WineTours at Schiller’s Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC

Last year at Schiller’s Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC, we were honored by the visit of the 2013/14 German Wine Princes Sabine Wagner. The year before, Austrian Wine Importer Klaus Wittauer presented his portfolio to the guests. This year, Managing Partner Denman Zirkle showed us the wines of Weingut Richard Böcking.

Picture: Annette Schiller, ombiasyPR and WineTours, and Christian Schiller Ready for the Guests at their 2015 Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC (McLean, Virginia)

See:
Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2015)

Weingut Richard Böcking

Weingut Richard Böcking is a Mosel producer with a long history that was virtually unknown a few years ago, but is now being revived by the Böcking family. Interestingly, 2 of the main protagonists in the revival process – Deman Zirkle and his daughter Sigrid Caroll - are based in Virginia, about 2 hours away from Washington DC.

Picture: Weingut Richard Böcking in Traben-Trabach, Mosel

Denman Zirkle is an American, who married into the Richard Böckling family while he was on an external assignment for IBM in Frankfurt. Since then, he has been a regular in the Mosel valley at Weingut Richard Böcking, with his late wife and their daughter Sigrid Carroll, who also grew up in the US.

In 2010, a decision faced the descendants of the Böckings, including Denman Zirkle and Sigrid Caroll: sell the traditional but marginally profitable winery and the accompanying vineyards, or pursue a new vision and awaken the winery to a new beginning?

The Böcking descendant Baroness Leweke von Marschall, along with her uncle William Denman Zirkle and her cousin Sigrid Carroll opted for the latter and are now in the process of reestablishing the glory of Weingut Richard Böcking, with the help of winemaker Simon Trös.

Pictures: At Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf - Annette Schiller with Baroness Leweke von Marschall, Weingut Richard Böcking, and Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch, the Mentor of Simon Trös, the Weingut Richard Böcking Winemaker

See:
Prowein 2015 in Düsseldorf, Germany – Schiller’s Impressions
German Star Winemaker Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, in Washington DC, USA

A Look Back

In 1623, the Böcking family, regional treasurers for the Prince of Palatinate-Zweibrücken, laid the foundation for their once immense influence in Protestant Traben-Trarbach with the establishment of a trade and exchange company (Handlungs-und Wechselcomptoir). Trading of fine princely goods, such as coffee, tea, silk, the finest spices, tobacco, and wine, along with their skills as bankers, shaped the family’s preeminence amongst a growing population of businessmen and merchants, as well as Traben-Trarbach’s future. The residence of the Böckings, an impressive Baroque villa, which today houses the Mittel-Mosel Museum, still bears witness to the splendor that once adorned the family name.

Pictures: Denman Zirkle, Weingut Richard Böcking, Pouring his Wines

During Napoleon’s reign, trade on the Mosel was liberalized, and the predominant feudal system was lifted. At the same time, his Code civil, or Napoleonic Code (Code Napoléon), decreed that property belonging to the nobility would pass to the bourgeoisie. This decree facilitated the passing of precious vineyards – like Ungsberg, Schlossberg, and Geierslay – to the Böcking family. Traben-Trarbach soon became a wine trade center of world renown. Recent research reveals that at least half of the Trarbacher Ungsberg vineyard was already planted with Riesling – an unbelievable 120 years before the decree to uproot all inferior vines and replace them with Riesling by Prince Clemens Wenceslaus of Saxony, Archbishop-Elector of Trier (1768–1803). This event transformed the Mosel Valley into becoming the largest Riesling region in the world at that time and led to the ensuing triumphant success of Mosel Riesling.

The flourishing wine trade brought fame to Traben-Trarbach, equal to that of Bordeaux.

With the town’s new designation in the Prussian Rhine Province, the wine producers and merchants fought successfully for the retention of the Napoleonic Code. The Böckings decided to focus on the cultivation and production of the highest-quality Riesling wines.

Picture: Denman and Ann Sweeny Zirkle, Weingut Böcking, Carl Willner, President of the German Wine Society in Washington DC, and Panos Kakaviatos, Wine Chronicles and Decanter

Although, by nature, the Riesling vine does not yield great quantities, it was foremost the quality of this variety that secured the economic prosperity of the wine estate. This entrepreneurial foresight led the Böckings to produce wines that achieved the highest prices on the market until the end of the 19th century.

Thus, the vineyards Ungsberg, Schlossberg, and Burgberg are found on the earliest Mosel vineyard maps, alongside those of the world-famous Brauneberger (today’s Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr) and Scharzhofberger.

Even the German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lauded the extraordinary Mosel wine when he took shelter and enjoyed the hospitality at the Böcking villa during a stormy night on the Mosel in 1792.

About 100 years after this memorable event, at the beginning of the 20th century, fortunes changed for the Böcking family. After ten generations of successful mercantilism, the entrepreneurial spirit of the family died in 1903 with Adolph Böcking. With the marriage of his daughter, not only did most of the family’s fortune pass into the ownership of the wine-trading dynasty of the Huesgen family, also the prized vineyard of Geierslay as well. Though the Trarbacher sites remained with the Böckings, they did not prosper in the historic and economic hardships that followed.

Denman Zirkle

Denman Zirkle is an American from Virginia. He married into the Böcking family while he was working for IBM in Frankfurt. His wife was the late Dagmar von Maltzahn, a granddaughter of Kurt Böcking.

Denman Zirkle’s first visit to Traben-Trarbach was in October 1971, just after the birth of his daughter Sigrid in Frankfurt. He returned with his family to the United States in 1974 to continue a professional career with IBM. Later on, his work took him to Franklin Templeton Investments, where he was an executive in finance and marketing. With his family, he often returned to Traben-Trarbach, usually to hike along the ridges overlooking the Mosel River.

Pictures: Managing Partner Denman Zirkle from Weingut Richard Böcking (Mosel, Germany) Special Guest at Schiller’s Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC, USA

In early 2014 he left his position as executive director of a Virginia foundation to begin working directly with the winery in Traben–Trarbach. Bringing his management and financial skills, he is now working with the team on the renovation of existing and newly-acquired vineyards and production facilities.

He was educated at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and received his M.B.A. degree from the Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania.

Vineyards and Winemaking Philosophy

Denman Zirkle: The character of the wines is shaped by the distinctive steep slope vineyards of which Richard Böcking has 15 acres under cultivation. The plantings are 95% Riesling and 5% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Of the five vineyards: Ungsberg, Burgberg, Schlossberg, Huenerberg and Taubenhaus, four are classified as Grand Cru with vintage vines up to 80 years old. Richard Böcking develops their wines by hand, from the vineyard to the bottle. Unadulterated; with an originality that can be produced only in a natural vineyard environment. From this tenet springs Böcking's fundamental philosophy—a philosophy of allowing a wine to develop naturally. In the steep-slope vineyards, this philosophy means the small vineyard parcels are cultivated individually and by hand. All wines are developed as bio-dynamically as possible, using naturally occurring yeast and introducing only the sparest amount of sulfur. This meticulous attention to natural agriculture and production create beautifully finished wines while sustaining the vineyards for the future.

Pictures: The Wines Denman Zirkle Poured

Weingut Böcking in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

A few months ago, Weingut Richard Böcking got a nice write up in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (February 2015): Since 2011, Leweke Freifrau von Marschall, Denman Zirkle and Sigrid Carroll with winemaker Simon Trös, are trying to link to the great tradition of the Richard Böcking estate in Traben-Trarbach that was established in 1623, and made the Trarbacher Ungsberg (which was 50% planted with Riesling already in 1669) to one of the most prestigious vineyard sites in the Mosel until the late 18th century. For this report I tasted two vintages of the three Trarbach grands crus from ungrafted vines: Ungsberg, Schlossberg and Burgberg. Traditionally made in fuders or old barriques and kept on the lees until late July after the harvest, this is an estate to watch. - Stephan Reinhardt" - Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate (Issue #217, February 2015).

Thanks

Thanks Denman Zirkle for being our special guest at our 2015 Riesling Party.

Picture: Denman Zirkle, Managing Partner of Weingut Böcking in the Mosel Valley, and Christian Schiller at Schiller's Annual Riesling Party (2015) in Washington DC (McLean, Virginia)

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Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

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Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Lunch and Wine Tasting at Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in Morscheid, Mosel with Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Video: How to Pronounce German Wine - Simon Woods' Enhanced Version

Riesling Summer at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA

Summer of Riesling with Annette and Christian Schiller in Washington DC, USA

Picture: Karl Friedrich Aust, Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust, Sachsen, Germany

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust was our second winery stop in Sachsen. The first one was Weingut Schloss Proschwitz near Meissen.

After a fabulous dinner with Prinz Georg zur Lippe at Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, we spent the night in Meissen and toured the famous Albrechtsburg, a late Gothic castle built in the 15th century and Germany’s oldest castle, in the morning, before driving up the Elbe Valley to Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, near Dresden.

The Albrechtsburg sits majestically on a rock above the Elbe River and presents together with the cathedral of Meissen a gorgeous panorama. Later the castle was superseded by the Dresden castle as the new seat of the Wettin dynasty who eventual produced the kings of Saxony and Poland. It was here where the King Augustus II the Strong of Saxony established the first European Porcelain manufacture in 1710 under the supervision of Johann Friedrich Böttger. The world-famous Meissen porcelain was produced at the Albrechtsburg until 1863, when the location became too small and the manufacture moved to its present location in Meissen.

Pictures: In Meissen

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust is in Radebeul further up the Elbe River, near Dresden. Karl Friedrich Aust gave us a tour of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust, focusing on the vaulted cellar. We then had lunch at his restaurant, Restaurant Aust, where we also tasted some of the Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust wines.

Pictures: Arriving at Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust

Sachsen (Saxony)

Sachsen, located in the former GDR, is the easternmost German wine region and extends some 35 miles north and south of Dresden along the Elbe River. Most of the region’s vines are planted on terraces along the River Elbe, and being at such a gradient, a lot of the work is done by hand. For 8 centuries, vintners here have mostly planted Müller-Thurgau and Riesling, earning a well-deserved reputation for excellent dry whites. With 460 hectares, Sachsen is one of the smaller German wine regions.

Meissen porcelain, known locally as “white gold,” is one of the things Sachsen is best known for, being the first place in Europe to make china in the early 18th century.

Annette Schiller: This region tickles all your senses with its unique voluptuous baroque architecture, a rich history, its wealth of art, and love of all the good things in life.

Picture: Semper Opera in Dresden

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust is in Radebeul in Sachsen, near Dresden. The historic estate from the 17the century is idyllically located at the foot of the Goldener Wagen vineyard.

Karl Friedrich’s parents acquired this historic gem in 1975 (during the GDP period) and restored it on their own initiative. Already during the GDR period, the Aust family made wine. The estate came with a small vineyard of 0.6 hectares. In his day job, the father of Karl Friedrich Aust was heading the reconstruction team of the Dresden Zwinger.

Pictures: Cellar Tour with Karl Friedrich Aust

The origins of the “Meinholdsche Turmhaus” (tower building), the heart of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust, dates back to the year 1650. Wine was already made here in the 18th century. C.C. Meinhold (Hofbuchdrucker) from Dresden acquired the estate in 1792.

Karl Friedrich Aust grew up on the estate with two siblings and early in his live got to know how to make wine. However, during the communist era the family was allowed to produce only 100 liters of wine for their own consumption. “6 families lived on the estate during the GDR period” Karl Friedrich Aust said.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Christian Schiller and Karl Friedrich Aust

Karl Friedrich’s father died very early, in 1992, while Karl Friedrich was still attending school. When Karl Friedrich finished school in 1995, he initially learnt the profession of a Steinmetz and Steinbildhauer (stonemason and stone sculptor) in Cologne at the famous Cathedral of Cologne. At the same time, he took over the full responsibility of the small family vineyard of the Aust family. During these 3 years, we was during the week an apprentice in Cologne and during the weekends an estate manager and small winemaker in Radebeul.

In 1999, he returned with his stonemason and stone sculptur degree to Radebeul and took up assignments in Dresden and at Schloss Proschwitz. But at the same time, the desire grew to fully shift from being a stone artist to a wine artist, i.e. to leave his job and to take over the family estate and concentrate on winemaking.

Pictures: Visiting the newly renovated Dining Room of Restaurant Aust

Since 2001, the family winery bears the name Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust. In 2003, Karl Friedrich added Weinhaus Karl Friedrich Aust, a small negociant operation. In 2006, he opened the Restaurant Weinhaus Aust, where we had lunch and tasted the Karl Friedrich Aust wines. On the side, Karl Friedrich went through another apprenticeship, that of a Winzer (winemaker). He earned his Winzer Certificate in 2008.

Today, the vineyard area of Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust totals 5.3 hectares. Annual production is 2000 cases. Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust is one of the leading winemakers in Sachsen and in Germany, with 2 grapes (out of 5) in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015.

Vineyards

The Radebeuler Goldener Wagen vineyard is located immediately behind the winery, initially the flat portions and then the steep terraces with the distinctive drystone walls (Trockenmauern). Karl Friedrich Aust: “From 2010 to 2012, we were able to re-cultivate the steep slope vineyards, including extensive wall repairs, and plant Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). We plant on our steep slope vineyards Riesling, Weißburgunder, Spätburgunder and Traminer.”

Pictures: In the Vineyards

The Radebeuler Steinrücken is mainly devoted to Riesling, but there is also some Weißburgunders and Auxerrois. Karl Friedrich Aust: “ The soil of the Radebeuler Steinrücken is legendary. The wines need some time to develop and we give these wines the time they need. The minerality of the soil produces a bit of a salty taste on the palate.”

The Radebeuler Johannisberg is all planted with Spätburgunder. Karl Friedrich Aust: “The wines from this stony vineyard have a lot of minerality in the glass.”

Wine Cellar

The wines are fermented on two floors: In the Kelterraum on the first floor and the vaulted cellar. Karl Friedrich Aust: “Generally the wines ferment at 17 degrees Celsius to keep the aromas in the wine. With regard to the use of barrique barrels, I only ferment in barrique, if I feel the barrique notes fit with the wine - Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Traminer. I use barrels for 3 years.”

Pictures: At Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Saxony, at a previous Visit

Lunch

Following an introduction to Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust by Karl Friedrich, we had lunch in the lovely garden of Restaurant Aust. We had 4 courses and 4 different wines. The kitchen of Restaurant Aust is tiny, but despite these constraints, the output is outstanding. Local, organic ingredients and a gifted, very talented chef make for stunning, tasty, creative dishes.

Pictures: The tiny Kitchen of Restaurant Aust

Until 2012, all Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust wines were marketed as “Landwein”, the lowest quality level in the Law of 1971 Classification of German wine. The wines were not of low quality, but he did not bother – like the cult winemaker Klaus Zimmerling – to go through the administrative procedures for the higher quality wines. This has changed. He still makes a few wines at the Landwein level (which are not necessarily of low quality), but now also offers wines in the QbA (Qualitätswein besonderer Anbaugebiete) and Prädikatswein (all at the Spätlese level in his current portfolio) levels. As a rule all wines are dry. Some may exceed the legal limit to call it a wine dry, but if this is so, just by a few grams.

Pictures: Lunch at Restaurant Aust

We had the following wines:

2014 Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust Goldriesling trocken
2012 Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust Weissburgunder trocken
2013 Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust Radebeuler Steinrücken Riesling Spätlese
2013 Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust Radebeuler Goldener Wagen Riesling Hausberg Spätlese

Postings: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015) (Published and Forthcoming)

Preview: Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The Art Marketer: OMBIASY PR & WINE TOURS - Germany-East

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tasting at Weingut Lützkendorf with Uwe Lützkendorf – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Weingut Thürkind in Gröst, Saale-Unstrut: Tour, Tasting and Lunch – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in the Saale Unstrut Region, Germany

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Cellar Tour and Lunch at Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Sachsen

Cellar Tour, Art Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Zimmerling with Winemaker Klaus Zimmerling and Artist Malgorzata Chodakoska in Sachsen

Schiller's Favorite Winemakers in Sachsen (Saxony), Germany

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen, Franken

Visit and Tasting at Weingut Am Stein Ludwig Knoll in Würzburg, Franken

Cellar Tour and Tasting with Star Winemaker Paul Fürst at Weingut Fürst in Franken

Würzburg and its 3 Historic Wine Taverns: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital and Staatlicher Hofkeller

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg

Tasting at Weingut Dautel in Württemberg with Christian Dautel

Wine Pairing Dinner at Restaurant Friedrich von Schiller in Bietigheim-Bissingen in Württemberg

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Herzog von Württemberg at Schloss Monrepos with Owner F.R.H. Carl Duke of Württemberg

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg

Wine Tasting at Weingut Simon-Bürkle in Zwingenberg, Hessische Bergstrasse

Picture: best of riesling 2015 - The Winners (Photo: Meininger Verlag)

The best of riesling Competion 2015 took place earlier this year in Neustadt an der Weinstrasse in the Pfalz Region in Germany. The annual best of riesling competition is organized by the Meininger Verlag in Neustadt, with the Ministry of Wine of the Land Rheinland Pfalz backing the event.

Picture: best of riesling 2015

This year, 1838 Rieslings entered the competition, with German Rieslings accounting for 97% of the wines. Thus, essentially, it was a best of german riesling competition.

There were 8 categories this year.

Riesling Gutswein Dry up to 12% Alcohol
Riesling Lagenwein Dry up to 12% Alcohol
Riesling Gutswein Dry exceeding 12% Alcohol
Riesling Lagenwein Dry exceeding 12% Alcohol
Riesling Fruity-sweet
Riesling Noble-sweet
Riesling Aged Dry
Riesling Aged Noble-sweet

Dry and Fruity-sweet and Noble-sweet Riesling

Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling on the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar-sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes.

The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these specialty wine, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented. Category 6 and 8 were noble-sweet Rieslings.

However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. These are exceptional wines, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US. Anyway, they are very present in Germany’s export markets, but account only for a small share of total German wine production. These were the fruity-sweet Rieslings in category 5.

All other wines were dry Rieslings (categories 1, 2, 3, 4, 7). Steffen Christmann, the President of the VDP, the German elite wine maker association, estimates that 95% of German wine beyond a price point of Euro 15 is dry.

Gutswein and Lagenwein

Another classification that played a role in the best of riesling Competition 2015 was the distinction between Gutswein (Estate Wine) and Lagenwein (Vineyard Wine). This distinction is reflecting the new classification of German wines that the VDP, the German association of about 200 elite winemakers, is in the process of introducing.

What is a Gutswein – Estate Wine? Gutswein is a term introduced and used by the members of the VDP association, Germany’s elite winemakers. A Gutswein is an entry level wine of a VDP member.

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification system consists of 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

The organizer of best of riesling 2015 grouped the wines into entry-level wines (Gutswein) and higher quality wines (Lagenwein), which had to come from a single vineyard to qualify for the latter.

For more background information, see:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
German Wine Basics: Grosse Lage and Grosslage (and Grosses Gewaechs)
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach

best of riesling 2015: The Winners

Kategorie I: Riesling Gutswein trocken bis einschließlich 12,0 Volumenprozent Alkohol (Riesling Gutswein dry up to 12% Alcohol)

1. Platz: 2014 Emil Bauer Riesling trocken, Weingut Emil Bauer und Söhne, Landau/Pfalz
2. Platz: 2014 Kneisel Riesling QbA trocken, Weingut Kneisel, Grünstadt/Pfalz
3. Platz: 2014 Krieger Riesling trocken, Weingut Thorsten Krieger, Rhodt unter Rietburg/Pfalz

Kategorie II: Riesling Lagenwein trocken bis einschliesslich 12,0 Volumenprozent Alkohol (Riesling Single Vineyard Wine dry up to 12% Alcohol)

1. Platz: 2014 von Winning Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling, Qualitätswein trocken „VDP.Erste Lage“, Weingut von Winning, Deidesheim/Pfalz
2. Platz: 2014 Karl Wegner Bad Dürkheim Fronhof Riesling Kabinett trocken, Weingut Karl Wegner & Sohn, Bad Dürkheim/Pfalz
3. Platz: 2014 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling trocken*, Weingut Weingart, Spay/Mittelrhein

Kategorie III: Riesling Gutswein trocken ab 12,5 Volumenprozent Alkohol (Riesling Gutswein with more than 12,5% Alcohol)

1. Platz: 2013 KULT Riesling „Réserve“ trocken, Collegium Wirtemberg, Stuttgart/Württemberg
2. Platz: 2014 Schäfer Limit Riesling Alte Reben trocken, Weingut Schäfer, Neustadt/Pfalz
3. Platz: 2014 Schädler Ruppertsberger Riesling „R“ trocken, Hofgut Schädler, Ruppertsberg/Pfalz

Kategorie IV: Riesling Lagenwein trocken ab 12,5 Volumenprozent Alkohol (Riesling Single Vineyard Wine with more than 12,5% Alcohol)

1. Platz: 2014 Buhl Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling trocken, „VDP.Erste Lage“, Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl GmbH, Deidesheim/Pfalz
2. Platz, 2013 Gutzler Westhofener Morstein Riesling trocken, „VDP.Grosse Lage“, Weingut Gutzler, Gundheim/Rheinhessen
3. Platz: 2013 Himmel Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese trocken „Stückfass“, Weingut Himmel, Hochheim/Rheingau

Kategorie V: Riesling restsüß (halbtrocken , feinherb, lieblich, süß) (Riesling fruity-sweet)

1. Platz: 2014 Riesling „Quarzitschiefer“ feinherb, Weingut Gorges-Müller, Burgen/Mosel
1. Platz: 2014 Mußbacher Eselshaut Riesling Spätlese süß, Winzergenossenschaft Weinbiet eG, Neustadt/Pfalz
3. Platz: 2014 Abtei St. Hildegard Riesling Classic, Klosterweingut Benediktinerinnen Abtei St. Hildegard, Rüdesheim am Rhein/Rheingau

Kategorie VI: Riesling edelsüß (Riesling noble-sweet)

1. Platz: 2012 Stettener Stein Riesling Eiswein, Weingut am Stein, Ludwig Knoll, Würzburg/Franken
2. Platz: 2012 Cleebronner Michaelsberg Riesling Eiswein, Weingärtner Cleebronn-Güglingen eG, Cleebronn/Württemberg
3. Platz: 2013 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Auslese „VDP.Erste Lage“, Weingut Matthias Müller GbR, Spay/Mittelrhein
3. Platz: 2013 Hörsteiner Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese, Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Würzburg/Franken

Kategorie VII Riesling trocken gereift (Jahrgang 2004 und älter) (Riesling dry and aged)

1. Platz: 2003 Burger Wendelstück Riesling Auslese trocken, Weingut Paul Knod, Burg/Mosel
2. Platz: 2004 Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling „VDP.Erste Lage“, Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen, Eltville-Erbach am Rhein/Rheingau
3. Platz: 2003 Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen Riesling „VDP.Erste Lage“, Weingut Schloss Reinhartshausen, Eltville-Erbach am Rhein/Rheingau

Kategorie VIII Riesling edelsüß gereift (Jahrgang 2004 und älter) (Riesling noble-sweet and aged)

1. Platz 2004 Bopparder Hamm Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Weingart, Spay/Mittelrhein
2. Platz: 1999 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Nick Köwerich, Leiwen/Mosel
3. Platz: 2002 Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Riesling Beerenauslese, Weingut Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan GmbH, Deidesheim/Pfalz

Previous Years Winners

For the winners of previous years, see:

best of riesling Competition 2014: The Winners, Germany

best of riesling Competition, 2013, Germany

Best of Riesling 2012 - The Winners, Germany

Best of Riesling Awards 2010

schiller-wine - Related Postings

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Picture: Markus Pawis, Weingut Pawis, and the Wines he Poured for us at the Brunnenhaus

Weingut Pawis is arguably the #1 producer in the Saale-Unstut Region in the eastern part of Germany. Weingut Lützkendorf, which we visited also on the Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), and Winzerhof Gussek, which we visited on the last year’s tour, are the other 2 contenders for the #1 spot in the region. You should also watch Weingut Hey in Naumburg and Weingut Thürkind in Gröst.

Marcus Pawis, son of Bernhard and Kerstin Pawis, was our host this time. He took as on a tour of the estate and lead a winetasting at the newly renovated Brunnenhaus.

Bernhard and Kerstin Pawis greeted us. We also had the chance to meet the father of Bernhard Pawis, Herbert Pawis, who still runs a small wine tavern.

Pictures: Bernhard Pawis Greeting us

Weingut Pawis

Weingut Pawis is located in the historic Zscheiplitz Estate, close to Freyburg. The renovation of the Estate was a major undertaking. The just added the Brunnenhaus, an event location with hotel rooms, to the gorgeous set-up.

Pictures: Weingut Pawis

Bernhard Pawis is a trained winemaker, who got his education in the former German Democratic Republic. Shortly after the Berlin Wall came down in 1990, Bernhard’s parents - Herbert and Irene Pawis– bought 0.5 hectares of vineyard land and founded a small winery cum wine tavern (Strausswirtschaft). They sold the wine they produced in tavern on their premise. Bernhard had a day job, but helped his parents after work.

Pictures: 3 Generations of the Pawis Family

Business was good, so when his father died in 1998, Bernhard decided to quit his job take over his parents’ winery. He constructed a modern winery in the center of Freyburg and enlarged the winery’s vineyard land through purchases and long-term lease arrangements. In 1995, Weingut Pawis produced 5.000 bottles, five years later 2000 50.000 bottles. Not only quantity improved, but also the quality of the Weingut Pawis wines and in 2001, Weingut Pawis was invited to join the VDP, Germany’s association of elite winemakers.

Picures: Annette Schiller and Bernhard Pawis, Weingut Pawis, at Kloster Eberbach, Rheingau

The VDP membership put Weingut Pawis on Germany’s wine map and the winery Bernhard had constructed 10 years ago reached capacity limits. Bernard moved again, this time to something grand, the historic Estate Zscheiplitz. The former feudal Estate Zscheiplitz was completely run-down and required a major renovation effort. Bernhard pushed ahead with it, overcoming many obstacles. Since May 2007, the Weingut Pawis is based at the Zscheiplitz Estate in Freyburg-Zscheiplitz.

The vineyard area totals 14 hectares, with holdings in the Edelacker, a VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru), Mühlberg (Freyburg) and Sonneneck (Naumburg). The area is planted with the white varieties Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner, Bacchus and Kerner, and with the red varieties Dornfelder, Portugieser, Pinot Noir and Regent. The white varieties account for 80% of the portfolio.

Pictures: Annette and Christian Schiller and Bernhard and Kerstin Pawis at Weingut Pawis at a Previous Visit

In terms of winemaking philosophy, Weingut Pawis follows sustainable vineyard practices. The wines are made primarily in a dry style, using temperature-controlled fermentation. The premium wines are matured in barriques made from the Trias oak found in the region. When vintage conditions permit, noble sweet wines are also made. The estate also produces bottle-fermented sparkling wines and grappa-style spirits.

Weingut Pawis sells about 1/3 of its production in the western part of Germany. This is unusually large, but having met Bernhard Pawis and his wife Kerstin, seen the hip tasting room and tasted his wines, I can see why Bernhard Pawis is much more successful in the western part of Germany than his colleagues.

Pictures: Touring the Estate with Marcus Pawis

Marcus Pawis and the Brunnenhaus

The Brunnenhaus is the latest addition to the Pawis Empire. Right next to the winery, it is an event location with hotel rooms, managed by Marcus Pawis. Our tasting took place in the Brunnenhaus.

Pictures: The Brunnenhaus

Marcus Pawis, borne in 1986, has a Bachelor and Master for Event Management (Berlin) and runs the Brunnenhaus.

What Marcus Pawis Poured

The Saale Unstrut and Sachsen VDP decided to drop the Ortswein category and to go for a 3-tier classification system: Gutswein, Erste Lage, Grosse Lage..

2011 Weingut Pawis Blauer Zweigelt Sekt brut
2014 Weingut Pawis Weissburgunder trocken
2014 Weingut Pawis Grauburgunder Muschelkalk trocken
2014 Weingut Pawis Riesling R 736 Freyburger Edelacker trocken
2013Weingut Pawis Riesling Grosses Gewächs Edelacker
2013 Weingut Pawis Grauburgunder Grosses Gewächs Edelacker
2013 Weingut Pawis Weissburgunder Grosses Gewächs Edelacker
2013 Weingut Pawis Blauer Zweigelt Barrique trocken

Pictures: Tasting with Marcus Pawis

Bye-bye

Thanks Marcus for a great tour and tasting.

Picture: Marcus Pawis with a Poaster Announcing a Concert of his Rock Band

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Picture: Lunch cum Tasting at Weingut Schätzel with Nanne Schätzel

The last visit (of a total of 21 visits) on the Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014) was at Weingut Schätzel, which is owned and run by Kai Schätzel. Kai was on a sales trip in Northern Europe and we were hosted by Kai Schätzel’s mother, Nanne Schätzel used to run the winery for many years, before Kai took over.

The visit comprised a cellar tour and a fine lunch (cooked by Nanne Schätzel) cum wine tasting. The stunning wines, the historical setting, the hospitality and warmth of this family, the German “Gemütlichkeit”, made the perfect finale for our tour.

Before arriving at the winery we stopped at the Roter Hang vineyard (Red Slope), the famous vineyard with its outstanding terroir. From there we had a breathtaking view of surrounding vineyards, the Rhine River, and the Frankfurt skyline.

In the Roter Hang (Red Slope)

The stretch of vineyards which runs from Bodenheim (south of Mainz) in the north to Mettenheim in the south, is often referred to as the Rheinterrasse. The vineyards of the Rheinterrasse have a favored mesoclimate in comparison with others in the region. The Rheinterrasse accounts for one-third of Rheinhessen’s Riesling wines. The wines from the Rheinterrasse were at some point more expensive than Bordeaux wines.

The Roter Hang (Red Slope) is at the center of the Rheinterrasse. This steep slope extends for some five kilometers with a total of 180 hectares around Nierstein on the left bank of the Rhine.

The Roter Hang has a very special terroir, resulting from the drop of the Rheinhessen plateau before human life started. As a consequence of these movements the Roter Hang has a mineral-rich soil, a mixture of iron and clayish slate, which is at least 250 million years old (Permian Period). Further, the slope faces south to southeast, which helps in terms of the solar radiation. The red slate retains warmth, and additional warmth comes from the sunlight reflected from the surface of the Rhine.

Pictures: In the Roter Hang (Red Slope) Before the Visit of Weingut Schätzel

Weingut Schätzel

The Schätzel family has been making wine for 650 years, for 5 generations at the current location: the General von Zastrow Estate. Today, the winery is owned and managed by Kai Schätzel, who is one of the upcoming young winemakers in Rheinhessen. When he became fully responsible, he decided to change course at Weingut Schätzel and to aim at becoming a nationally and internationally recognized premium wine producer.

As a result, in the prestigious Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2011, Weingut Schätzel moved from 1 to 2 grapes (with 5 grapes being the maximum). “A new fixture in the reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein”, noted the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. Kai Schätzel continued to move up. Today, he is at 3.5 grapes.

Kai Schätzel

Kai started to work early at the winery – in 1996, even before he got his “Abitur” (highschool degree) in 1998. He fully took over Weingut Schätzel from his parents in 2007. In the meantime, he studied business economics in Hamburg graduating with the Diplom Kaufmann degree, served in the army, and interned at wineries, including in the US.

Picture: Christian Schiller and Kai Schätzel at the Roter Hang Festival

When he became fully responsible, he decided to change course at Weingut Schätzel and to aim at becoming a nationally and internationally recognized premium wine producer. Of course, with his business degree, he had many other options. But he went for the wine option – making premium wines at a small boutique winery, suggesting, as Kai explained to me, that his decision was driven by a lot of passion for making good wine.
vineyard of the estate.

Pictures: In the Garden of Weingut Schäetzel with Kai Schätzel

In the Cellar

The first thing we did after we arrived was to visit the impressive, very old vaulted underground wine cellar with Nanne Schätzel. I visited the cellar before with Kai and I am using here his explainations.

“The fermentation takes place in this 800 years old cellar” explained Kai. “After manually and selectively harvesting the grapes, the grapes are transported to the winery in small boxes. Here the grapes are crushed and remain up to 24 hours on the skins. Through the so-called maceration, aromas are released from the skin and the wines become more complex.”

Then the grapes are pressed. Throughout the whole mash treatment, no pumps are used. The grapes are always tilted gently. “So we avoid injuries on stems and seeds.” The fresh juice is clarified by sedimentation. “That means, we wait until cloudy sediment settles on the ground. What remains above the sediment is then a clear liquid in the tank. Through this natural process we avoid the use of filters. The clear juice flows into the oak barrels in the wine cellar.”

Pictures: In the Cellar with Nanne Schätzel

For the fermentation, each wine gets its own oak barrel. Most of the barrels are 600 or 1,200 liters in size and up to 50 years old. There are about 50 oak barrels in Schätzel’s vaulted underground cellar.

Approximately 70% of the wines fermented with wild yeasts. “The so-called spontaneous fermentation requires permanent control and is somewhat risky. The ancient and natural method gives each wine a chance to find itself and to develop its own character. Again, we stay as much as possible in the background and follow the process. That means in practical terms that we have to control each barrel several times a day. If all goes well, the young wines ferment for about 2 to 3 months and then have most of their natural sugar converted into alcohol. If we feel that the fermentation in the wooden barrels is too rough, we can cool each barrel individually and thus curb the yeasts” explained Kai.

After fermentation, the yeast settles gradually at the bottom of the barrel. “Our single vineyard wines mature until May sur lie and are bottled directly from there with only one pump and filter process. Again, it goes without saying that our aim is to stress the sensitive wine as little as possible and treat the very gently.” Kai said.

He continued: “In a way, we are actually quite old-fashioned. We use the old methods of our grandfathers. The continuous monitoring and adaptation of the strategy, if necessary, is very time consuming and complex. Overall, each individual wine is the sum of a lot of what Mother Nature did and many small human decisions. Sometimes the progress is in looking back. A prudent combination of old methods with modern processes guide our way of making our wines.”

The white wines are slowly fermented, almost exclusively with natural yeast and age for a long time sur lie. Following the traditional mash fermentation the red wines age sur lie for up to 36 months in large oak barrels (600 liter), with frequent manual batonnage (stirring the lees back up into the wine). The primary reasons for sur lie aging are to enhance the structure and mouth feel of a wine, give it extra body and increase the aromatic complexity, flavor/aroma depth and length.

Kai: “Each wine has its own oak barrel, gets its own treatment and has its own schedule. There is no one-fits-all treatment of my wines. We only have five acres and cultivate them almost completely by hand. This size allows us to have a good overview of each barrel in the cellar. In fact, every barrel tastes differently, even if they share the noble character is the Red Slope. This is of course very far from conventional economic thinking, but it works well because our Riesling and Sylvaner wines are very much appreciated by the young audience and young TV Chefs.”

The Vineyards

The vineyard area is small, just 5 hectares, with the single vineyards Heiligenbaum, Hipping, Ölberg and Pettenthal in the Red Slope. Riesling accounts for 70%, with the remainder made up by Silvaner and Spätburgunder. In the vineyard, Kai follows ecological principles.

“Great wines are grown in the vineyard. And because we know this we're trying to interfere with what is happening during the year in the vineyard as little as possible. During harvest time, we watching very carefully what is going on in the vineyard and gradually pick out only the best grapes. So it happens that between September and mid November we are up to 5 times in a vineyard to selectively harvest, of course, by hand.”

Lunch and Tasting with Nanne Schätzel

Pictures: Lunch cum Tasting with Nanne Schätzel

The Wines

Gutswein

2013 Weingut Schätzel ReinRosé
2013 Weingut Schätzel Silvaner
2013 Weingut Schätzel Riesling
2012 Weingut Schätzel Riesling

Ortswein

2013 ReinSchiefer Nierstein Riesling

Kai produces 2 dry wines at the Ortswein level – same treatment in the cellar, but one wine comes from a vineyard with loess and the other one from a vineyard with slate. The Reinlöss (which we did not have) is a bit smoother, softer on the palate than the Reinschiefer. Both are lovely wines. I prefer the Reinschiefer.

Lagenwein

2013 Weingut Schätzel Heiligenbaum Riesling
2013 Weingut Schätzel Pettenthal Riesling

This is Kai Schätzel’s premium Riesling from the Red Slope of Nierstein. Pale lemon color, very mineral notes on the nose, coupled with pineapple and ripe pear aromas, medium-bodied, good mouth feel, again mineral and a light floral notes on the palate, all very pleasing.

Ortswein

2013 Weingut Schätzel KabiNett Nierstein Riesling fruchtig

The fermentation was stopped to produce a wine with a bit of remaining sugar.

Prädikatswein

2011 Weingut Schätzel SpätLese Ölberg Riesling

Bye-bye

Thanks Nanne for a wonderful cellar tour, tasting and lunch.

Picutres: Leaving Weingut Schätzel

schiller-wine: Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Kerstin Pawis– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Kloster Pforta: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Managing Director Christian Kloss – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Winzerhof Gussek in the Saale Unstrut Region: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting with Owner and Winemaker André Gussek – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Tour and Tasting at the Historic Weingut Juliusspital in Würzburg, Franken– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf in Franken: Vineyard Walk and Wine Tasting with Reimund Stumpf, Matthias Stumpf and Melanie Stumpf-Kröger - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kiedrich: Visit of the Basilica of Saint Valentine and of Weingut Robert Weil - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Tour and Wine Tasting - Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Visit: Winzerhof Thörle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Wine Tasting at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim: Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Künstler– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

One of the Bio-dynamic Stars in Germany: Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn in Östrich, Winkel– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

In the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region – Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)

Vineyard Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Clemens Busch– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Selbach-Oster in Zeltingen, Mosel, with Johannes Selbach – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting at Weingut Von Hövel in Konz, Saar Valley, Mosel, with Owner and Winemaker Max von Kunow - Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Lunch and Wine Tasting at Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in Morscheid, Mosel with Owner Annegret Reh-Gartner – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Lunch and Wine Tasting with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tasting with Sylvain Taurisson Diel at Schlossgut Diel, Nahe– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Blind Tasting of Top Wines from Rheinhessen with Roland Ladendorf at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

schiller-wine - Related Postings (Weingut Schätzel)

Tasting the Wines of the Roter Hang (Red Slope), Nierstein, Rheinhessen, in the Roter Hang, Germany – Schiller’s Favorites

Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany

Riesling Lounge Goes Lomo, Germany

Pictures: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015, Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, with Joel B. Payne, Father Wilhelm Haag, also Winemaker of the Year (some 20 Years ago) and Christian G.E. Schiller. Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, was Promoted to 5 Grapes.

The Gault Milla Deutschland WeinGuide is arguably the leading German wine guide. I already posted a number of articles about the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2015:

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany
Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015
Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

This posting is a listing of the wine producers that were promoted and demoted in the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2015, grouped by regions. Note that those winemakers who were demoted to zero grapes and are thus not listed in the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide anymore are also not included in the listing below.

Picture: Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Ahr

Demotion to 3 grapes:
J.J. Adeneuer, Ahrweiler

Baden

Promotion to 3 grapes:
Arndt F. Köbelin, Eichstetten

See also:
Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin at K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Picture: Christian Schiller with Arndt Köbelin in Frankfurt am Main

Promotion to 1 grape:
Gerhard Karle, Ihringen

Demotions to 2 grape:
Holub, Herbolzheim
Spitalkellerei Konstanz
Staatsweingut Meersburg

Franken

Promotion to 3 grapes:
Michael Fröhlich, Escherndorf

Promotions to 2 grapes:
Augustin, Sulzfeld
Josef Walter, Bürgstadt

Promotions to 1 grape:
Hillabrand, Hüttenheim
Helmut und Bernd Hofheim, Ipsheim
Ilbacher Hof, Iphofen
Scheuring, Margetshöchheim
Vetter, Iphofen

Demotions to 2 grapes:
Heigel, Zell
Graf Schönborn, Volkach
Staatlicher Hofkeller, Würzburg

Demotion to 1 grape:
Günther Bardorf, Randersacker

Hessische Bergstrasse

Promotion to 1 grape:
Vinum autmundis, Gross-Umstadt

Demotion to 1 grape:
Hessische Staatsweingüter, Bensheim

Mittelrhein

Promotion to 2 grapes:
Josten und Klein, Remagen

Demotions to 1 grapes:
Fetz, Dörscheid
Toni Lorenz, Boppard

Mosel

Promotion to 5 grapes:
Schloss Lieser, Thomas Haag, Lieser

Picture: Thomas Haag, Owner and Winemaker, Weingut Schloss Lieser, in Mainz

See also:
Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Promotion to 3 grapes:
J.J. Christoffel Erben, Ürzig

Promotions to 2 grapes:
Bastgen, Monzel
Bischöfliche Weingüter, Trier
Dr. Fischer, Ockfen
Julian Haart, Piesport
Freiherr von Heddesdorff, Winningen
Lothar Kettern, Piesport
Nick Köwerich, Leiwen
Mönchhof Robert Eymael, Ürzig
Richard Richter, Winningen

See also:
3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider – and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA

Pictures: Karin Fischer of Weingut Dr. Fischer in Washington DC

Promotions to 1 grape:
Knoth-Trossen, Kröv
Lorenz, Detzem
Ingo Norwig, Burgen
K.J. Thui, Thörnich

Demotion to 1 grape:
Becker-Steinhauer, Mülheim
Gietzen, Hatzenport

Nahe

Promotion to 3 grapes:
Gebrüder Kauer, Windesheim

Promotions to 2 grapes:
Genheimer-Kiltz, Gutenberg
Honrath, Langenlonsheim
Von Racknitz, Odernheim
Schauss, Monzingen
Karl Stein, Oberhausen

See also:
The (Grape) Wines and the Apple Wine of Weingut von Racknitz, Germany

Picture: Owner and Winemaker Matthias Adams, Weingut von Racknitz, in Frankfurt am Main

Demotion to 4 grapes:
Dönnhoff, Oberhausen

See also:
Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff: Stuart Pigott’s Winemaker of the Year, Germany

Picture: Cornelius and Helmut Dönnhoff and Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch, at the Second International Riesling Symposium in the Rheingau in Germany

Demotion to 2 grapes:
Bamberger, Meddersheim

Demotions to 1 grape:
Prinz Salm, Wallhausen
Staatsweingut, Bad Kreuznach

Pfalz

Promotions to 2 grapes:
Uli Metzger, Grünstadt-Asselheim
Wegner, Bad Dürkheim
Valentin Ziegler Sohn, Weyher

Promotions to 1 grape:
Josef Biffar, Deidesheim
Boudier Koeller, Stetten
Hahn-Pahlke, Battenberg
Motzenbäcker, Ruppertsberg

Demotion to 3 grapes:
Georg Mosbacher, Forst

Demotions to 1 grape:
Fitz-Ritter, Bad Dürkheim
Immergartenhof, Maikammer
Heiner Sauer, Böchingen

Rheingau

Promotions to 2 grapes:
Bardong, Geisenheim
Fricke, Kiedrich
Goldatzel, Johannisberg
Oetinger, Erbach

See also:
A Small, Premium Sekt Producer: Sektkellerei Bardong in the Rheingau, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Norbert and Renate Bardong, Sektkellerei Bardong

Promotions to 1 grape:
Baison, Hochheim
Bickelmeier, Winkel
Biebers, Geisenheim
Schreiber, Hochheim
Weinwerk, Rüdesheim

See also:
“Hoffest” (Winery Party) at Weingut Heinrich Baison in Hochheim, Rheingau - Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winner

Picture: Christian Schiller with Best of Riesling 2010 Award Winners Heinrich and Heinz Baison, Weingut Baison, Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Rheinhessen

Promotions to 3 grapes:
Beck – Hedesheimer Hof, Stadecken-Elsheim
Geil Erben, Bechtheim
Karl May, Osthofen

Promotions to 2 grapes
Espenhof, Flonheim-Uffhofen
Gres, Appenheim
Keller, Worms-Pfiffligheim
Russbach, Eppelsheim

Promotions to 1 grape:
Bossert, Gundersheim
Eller, Alsheim
Sektmanufaktur Strauch
Abthof, Hahnheim
Schmitt, Mommenheim
Strebel, Wintersheim

Demotions to 2 grapes:
Groebe, Westhofen
Peth-Wetz, Bermesheim

Demotion to 1 grape:
Milch, Monsheim

Saale-Unstrut

No change

Sachsen

No change

Württemberg

Promotion to 4 grapes:
Neipperg, Schwaigern

See also:
Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Pictures: At Weingut Graf Neipperg in Schwaigern, Württemberg, with Björn Schilling

Promotion to 1 grape:
Forsthof, Steinheim-Kleinbottwar

Demotion to 2 grapes:
Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheim

schiller-wine - Related Postings

4 Wine Tours by ombiasy coming up in 2015: Germany-East, Germany-South. Germany-Nord and Bordeaux

Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy, 2014

A Small, Premium Sekt Producer: Sektkellerei Bardong in the Rheingau, Germany

Wine Maker Arndt Koebelin at K+M Gutsweine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

The (Grape) Wines and the Apple Wine of Weingut von Racknitz, Germany

3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider – and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA

Cornelius Dönnhoff, Weingut Dönnhoff: Stuart Pigott’s Winemaker of the Year, Germany

Germany’s Best Winemakers and Wines – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015 Awards Ceremony in Mainz, Germany

Thomas Haag, Weingut Schloss Lieser, Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Germany's Top 11 Winemakers (with 5 out of 5 Grapes) - The Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2015

Invitation: Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA

Domaine Brocard in Chablis: Lunch, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Odile Van Der Moere, Responsable de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Book Review: Wine Atlas of Germany (University of California Press, London, England, 2014) in Vol 10, No 1, 2015 of the Journal of Wine Economics (Cambridge University Press)

Schiller’s Favorite Winemakers in the Saale-Unstrut Region, Germany

Best of Apple Wine (Hard Cider): Frankfurt-Tipp 2015, Germany

Dinner at Hostellerie Chateau de la Barge in Creches-sur-Saone - Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2015) - San Pellegrino

Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, Prinz zur Lippe, in Zadel, Sachsen: Tour and Tasting with Prinz zur Lippe – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Martin Zwick’s BerlinGutsrieslingCup 2015 - Rating Dry Entry-level Rieslings from Germany's Best Producers

Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully-Fuissé, Mâconnais: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Wine Tasting with Cyril Laumain, Chef de Cave – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France

The Liv-ex Bordeaux Classification of 2015, France

Dining with Prinz zur Lippe, Owner of Weingut Schloss Proschwitz, at the Lippe’sches Gutshaus - Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Annual Riesling Party at the Schiller Residence in Washington DC, USA (2015)

Visit of the Abbey of Cluny and Lunch at Hostellerie d'Heloise in Cluny – Bourgogne Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Managing Partner Denman Zirkle from Weingut Richard Böcking (Mosel, Germany) Special Guest at Schiller’s Annual Riesling Party in Washington DC, USA

Weingut Karl Friedrich Aust in Radebeul, Sachsen: Tour and Lunch with Tasting – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

best of riesling 2015, Germany

Weingut Pawis (Saale Unstrut): Estate Tour and Wine Tasting with Markus Pawis – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)

Tour, Tasting, and Lunch at Weingut Schätzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)

Promotions and Demotions in the Gault Millau Deutschland WeinGuide 2015