Pictures: Morning Coffee in Paris (Brasserie Terminus Nord)
According to a Forbes survey, Paris is the best city in the world in terms of eating well, ahead of Rome and Tokyo. I lived in Paris between 2005 and 2008, for 3 years, on the right bank in the 8th arrondissement. Naturally, my list of favorites reflects that to a certain extent, although the Paris Metro takes you very efficiently anywhere in Paris within the Paris beltway.
The list is a mixture of own experiences, recommendations by others and finds in the internet that I still have to check out.
Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars In the following list of Schiller's favorites, I distinguish between restaurants, brasseries, bistros, cafes and winebars
. Restaurants are open only for lunch and/or dinner. You go there to eat, often in a rather formal setting. For dinner, the restaurants in Paris typically open at 8pm. The best restaurants are those with 1 to 3 Michelin stars.
Bistros are scaled down versions of restaurants, also open only for lunch and/or dinner. They tend to be less formal. Some bistros are Michelin-starred.
Brasseries open very early in the day and serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can also have just a beer or a café. My “down the road” brasserie Paris Europe would open at 6:30am and I often would have a croissant and an espresso there before going to work.
Wine bars primarily serve wine by the glass, but most of them also have elements of a bistro or a brasserie. Accordingly, I have listed, for example, Willi’s Wine Bar – a popular hang-out for Americans and other expatriates in Paris – as a bistro.
Cafés serve as places where people sit to have a café, by themselves or with others, eat something or have glass of wine. Most cafés serve lunch and light dinners in the evening. They generally do not have pastries except during mornings, where a croissant or pain au chocolat can be purchased with breakfast coffee.
RestaurantsLe Grand VefourM Palais Royal, 1st
Historic place with outstanding food. The oldest continually operating restaurant in Paris. Tucked like a jewel box in the Palais Royal’s quietest corner.
Le Meurice228 rue de Rivoli, 1st
TailleventM Charles de Gaulle - Étoile, 8th
Famed for what is probably the most sumptuous wine cellar in Paris.
Alain Ducasse at Plaza AtheneeM Alma-Marceau, 8th
Closerie des LilasM Port-Royal, 14th
Legend. The romance of days when men like Henry James and Ernest Hemingway gathered here is still very much alive at this popular café-restaurant. Nice outdoor dining.
BistrosLe ChateaubriandM Parmentier, 11th
129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011
Bistronomics cuisine that made it to the Top 50 restaurants in the world list of Pellegrino in the Oberkampf area. “Le Chateaubriand operates at the rock 'n' roll end of French cuisine, not only in terms of what it leaves out — pomp and ceremony, expensive frippery, soft furnishings — but also thanks to self-taught chef Inaki Aizpitarte's laconic persona, and a certain Gallic shoulder-shrugging nonchalance. Dinner is unique.”
See:
The World's
50 Best Restaurants (2014) - San Pellegrino
Willi’s Wine BarMetro Pyramides, 1st
Owned and run by the Brit Mark Williamson, well known in the American community.
See:
Wine bar: Paris --- Le Petit Monceau, Willi's wine bar
and LaviniaChez OmarM Arts et Metier, 3rd
My favorite couscous place in Paris. No reservations. Prepare to prop the bar (and be rather more intimate with your neighbors when you sit at your table).
Ma BourgogneMetro Bastille, 4th
Setting under the arcades of the picture perfect place des Vosges.
Racines8 Passage des Panoramas, 6th
The Passage des Panoramas (off boulevard Montmartre) is a beautiful belle époque shopping arcade. Tucked away inside is Les Racines, owned and run by Sommelier Pierre Jancou, who is evangelical about vins naturels.
Racines 2Metra Louvre-Rivoli, 1st
Version 2, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original
, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.
John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids. But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”
BrasseriesLe VaudevilleM Bourse, 2nd
My favorite place for a pot (a drink) after work.
Le Beuf sur le ToitM St-Philippe du Roule, 8th
A legendary temple of jazz music, Le Bœuf sur le Toit has successfully combined elegance and modernity while preserving its Art Deco soul. Come taste the latest trends in our original, typically Right Bank food, just a stone's throw from the Champs Élysées.
Paris Europe51 Rue de Rome, 8th
My “down the road” brasserie, just next to my apartment building: Cette belle brasserie traditionnelle propose plats du jour, desserts frais faits maison et accoudé à son imposant comptoir on y déguste volontiers ses sandwiches et salades qu'accompagnent avec bonheur d'honnêtes vins de pays. Le Café PARIS EUROPE vous reçoit du Lundi au Samedi de 6h30 à 22h30 et vous offre son service continu dès 11h.
Chez ChartierM Grands Boulevards, 9th
7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre
One of the remaining 19th century workers’ canteen in Paris that has kept not only its mirrored interior, but also its low budget menu. Was classified as Monument historique in 1989. An interesting place for people who live on a tight budget and are happy with very basic quality. No reservations - expect to wait in line.
JulienM Strasbourg-St-Denis, 10th
Located right in the heart of Paris, a stone’s throw from the Grands Boulevards and theatres, Brasserie Julien is a listed historical monument. With its Art Nouveau style, its grand mouldings, its immense mirrors and its “Flower Ladies” painted on pâte de verre, Julien offers you an exceptional setting and cuisine which is every bit as refined.
Le Train BleuGare de Lyon, 12th
One of the most beatiful brasseries in Paris, but has become a favorite of Japanese tourists. My recommendation: Take a drink in the lounge.
La CoupoleM Vavin, 14th
An institution. Huge. Josephine Baker took a bath in the fountain, which sits in the middle of the brasserie. My absolute favorite. No reservations – you wait at the bar.
Le WeplerM Place de Clichy, 14th
One of my favorite neighborhood brasserie, when I used to live in Paris, “c’est correct” as my French friends used to say – not more and not less.
A La MareePlace des Pêcheurs, Rungis
Jon Rowley recommendation: “A La Maree at Rungis, the wholesale market outside of Paris. Rungis opens at 3:00 am. Oysters and soupe de poisson at 2:00 am at A La Maree, open all night, seemed a must-do and we did.”
CafésAu Petit Fer a ChevalM Hotel-de-Ville, 4th
A Marais institution. Annette's favorite. Small place with a horse-shoe bar and seats outside.
Café de FloreM St-Germain-des-Prets, 6th
The haunt of the Surrealists in the 1920s and 1930s. Picassos met muse and model Dora Maar here. Simon de Beauvoir and Jean Paul Sartre kind of lived here. I sat several times next to Karl Lagerfeld (in the late evening).
Le Deux MagotsM St-Germain-des-Prets, 6th
Another Paris literary haunt legend, but I prefer Café de Flore.
La RotondeM Vavin, 14th
Lenin and Trotsky sipped their café crème here in 1915 and made it famous. Jon Rowley likes it.
Le ChinonM Abbesses, 18th
My Montmartre favorite.
Wine BarsBaratinMetro Pyrenees
3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 20th
The Paris Kitchen: Raquel Carina and Philippe (Pinouche) Pinoteau’s retro Le Baratin is a special little place in Belleville – cherished by the food & wine industry who come for “mama’s” fantastic home cooking & to talk natural wine with Pinouche.Its longstanding success is interesting. It isn’t in central Paris, it isn’t on the hot list, and visitors often wonder what the fuss is all about after having eaten there.
Recommended by Willi Igel.
Lavinia 3-5 bd de la Madeleine, 1st
restaurant et bar a vin - Lavinia is one of the biggest wine shops in Paris, with a broad and deep selection of French wines, but also some New World wines. Upstairs there is a restaurant and a bar where you can drop in for a glass or a bottle of wine at the wine bar, until 8 pm. At the wine bar, you can choose any of the more than 5000 bottles they sell at the shop and just pay the shop price.
See:
Wine bar: Paris --- Le Petit Monceau, Willi's wine bar
and LaviniaGriffonierMetro Miromesnil
8 rue des Saussaies, 8th
Paris by Mouth: A place to eat classic French bistro food (oeufs mayo, steak frites, celery remoulade), drink from an excellent wine list, and be surrounded (still, for now) by actual French people.
Willi Igel: Und natürlich (kann ich) den Griffonier beim Elysee um die Ecke (empfehlen). Der hat vom offenen Beaujolais aus gutem Hause bis zum Romanee Conti von Romanee Conti alles.
Bar de L’Entracte47 rue de Montpensier, 1st
A stone through away from the Grand Vevour, in the corner.
Aux Bons CrusM Bourse, 7 Rue des Petits Champs, 1st
Opened in 1905, a solid down-to-earth wine bar.
Le Versant Vins39 rue de Bretagne, 75003
Paris Bouge: Installé au cœur du plus vieux marché de Paris, le marché des Enfants Rouges, Versant Vins est une « cave à manger ». On y trouve une cave à vin alternative entièrement consacrée aux vins atypiques, naturels et biologiques, sans additifs chimiques. Le gros plus : ces vins naturels ne contiennent pas de souffre et ne donnent donc pas mal à la tête ! Pour accompagner la cave du Versant Vins, Jeanne, la caviste et dégustatrice, vous propose le Versant Faim pour accompagner au mieux les vins.
Recommendation Manfred Klimek.
Le Baron Rouge 1 rue Théophile Roussel, 12th
TimeOut: In this tiny den devoted to the glory of wine, the walls are carpeted with bottles and barrels are stacked from floor to ceiling. If you arrive a little late for after-work drinks, there’s no hope of getting even half an elbow on the bar – you’ll be out on the pavement along with pretty much everybody else. Those locals in the know bring their empty bottles here to fill them direct – and more cheaply – from the barrels. There’s also a good selection of bottles available to take away.
Joyce From Paris: ... mein absolut favorit, weil "à la bonne franquette": Le Baron Rouge. Da muss du hingehen wann der Marché d´Aligre sonntag morgens statt findet, es stehen riesen Fäßer draussen und es werden Austern verkauft mit Wein. Ein sehr sehr Parisianisches Erlebnis und wenn du Austern nicht magst es gibt Planches de Fromage et de Charcuterie für 10€.
Les Rouquins 146, rue du Château, 14th
Joyce From Paris: Dann empfehle ich dir auch Les Rouquins, sehr sympatisch und gute Weinauswahl von kleinen Winzer.
Le Figaro: Cette cave à manger propose une large gamme de fromages, charcuteries et autres mises en bouche, que l'on accompagne d'excellents crus.
L’Avant ComptoirMetro Odéon (4,10)
3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006
Paris by Mouth: Crêpes up front and pork (Ibaïona) in the rear. It’s standing room only at Yves Camdeborde’s tapas and wine bar, a hit since it opened in fall of 2009. Go during the off hours or be prepared to be get to know the person next to you very, very well.
Recommendation Manfred Klimek.
Legrand Filles et Fils1 Rue de la Banque, 2nd
A wine store, which closes in the evening. But during the day (until 7pm), at the horseshoe bar, at one of the tables, or in the covered galerie, numerous wines are available by the glass. Was just sold to an Asian investor.
Le Petit Monceau93 rue de Monceau, 8th
When I lived in Paris my “down the road bar” was Le Petit Monceau, just next to my apartment building in the 8th district. There are hundreds of these wine bars in Paris. This is the place where people from the neighborhood meet after work “pour un pot”. You would stand at the bar, talk about Carla Bruni and other gossips and have a decent French table wine. Typically, only French wines are on the wine list, but not the expensive ones, only the reasonably prices ones. Many of the wines at the Le Petit Monceau are from the South of France. The food is simple, nothing special, but good. I would stand at the bar from 7 pm to 9 pm and then move on to one of the tables and have some food. Le Petit Monceau in the rue de Monceau was run and owned by a guy by the name Richard, my friend , when I was there, but has changed ownership and management since then.
See:
Wine bar: Paris --- Le Petit Monceau, Willi's wine bar
and Lavinia5e Cru – Cave à Vin & Table d‘hôtes7 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5th
Britt Karlson: It looks like a wine store and it is a wine store. But also a very inspiring place for a lunch or a dinner, amongst wine bottles and wine cases. The selection of wines is amazingly good, if you – like us – like small, ambitious producers with a penchant for terroir and organic viticulture. For lunch there is a small menu, you can choose between two or three courses (entrée and main course is 13,90 euro). Nothing fancy or complicated, but very good and well prepared. For dinner there are mostly charcuteries and cheeses but also foie gras and various patés and terrines. And desserts. Very nice atmosphere and service. Booking recommended for dinner.
Manfred Klimek recommendation.
Septime Cave Metro Charonne or Ledru Rollin
3 rue Basfroi, 11th
The newest bottle shop on the block from the boys behind
Septime. Shop to go, or stay and pop your cork with a €7 droit de bouchon. Snack options, for those lucky enough to snag a stool or a piece of counter, include pancetta di Colonnata, house-smoked duck breast, anchovies with ricotta, foie gras with smoked eel, with prices ranging from €4-14. This isn’t a restaurant, a place for large groups, or a substitute for
Septime, but it promises to be a perfect spot for a high-quality/low-key apéro. Dead cheap glasses from €3-5.
David White recommendation.
Le Siffleur de Ballons 34, rue de Citeaux, 12th
GuideParisMode: A la fois caviste, vente à emporter (fromages, charcuteries, de délicieux sandwichs du jour), un bar à vin avec autour du comptoir quelques tables pour une petite restauration et dans l'autre salle une épicerie fine (miel, huiles, terrines...) avec une belle sélection de vins natures et bios.
David White recommendation.
Le Verre Volé (Natural Wines)67 rue de Lancry, 10th, open every day
An institution for organic wines.
Wine Terroirs (2007) “Le Verre Volé is where you can check the heartbeat of the natural-wines world.”
David Lebovitz (2010) “This tiny wine bar has great food, up by the Canal St Martin, a very hip neighborhood. Generous plates of charcuterie and etc, in this tight little wine bar.”
Le RubisMetro Tuileries or Pyramides
10 rue Marché Saint Honoré, 1st
Paris by Mouth: With its zinc bar, hearty home cooking, and colorful local clientele, this beloved wine bar (and its Turkish toilet) seems impervious to change. Meals are served only at lunch; the rest of the day you can stop for a glass of Morgon or Brouilly and a snack.
Manfred Klimeck recommendation.
O Chateau68 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1st
About travel: O Chateau, a new wine bar in Paris, is the latest venture of a company by the same name that has long run very popular and light-hearted wine tastings throughout the city, as well as champagne cruises on the Seine. It especially caters to English speakers, says owner Olivier Magny, who estimates that a good half of his clientele are Americans.
O Chateau: When we decided to create a wine bar in Paris, our idea was simple. We thought to ourselves: let’s create the place where we’d love to hang out. A wine bar with a great selection of wines by the glass, terrific food, beautiful decor, great music and friendly (and bilingual) staff. That was our idea. Since then, O Chateau has been adopted by Parisians and worldwide visitors alike as a landmark in Paris for wine drinkers.Before 7PM, you can show up without a reservation, no problem. Now, if you intend to spend the evening with us, it’s always best to make a reservation. You may do this over the phone (our number: +33 (0)1 44 73 97 80) or online.
Manfred Klimeck recommendation.
Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris in 2012All the restaurants listed below serve French cuisine, except otherwise specified. Restaurants in each category are listed by postcodes (i.e. by arrondissements). Stars in brackets denote recently lost stars.
3 Stars• Le Meurice (19.5/20), 228 rue de Rivoli - 75001 Paris ● Meurice Hotel
• L'Ambroisie (19/20), 9 place des Vosges - 75004 Paris (Traditional)
• L'Arpège (19.5/20), 84 rue de Varenne - 75007 Paris (Inventive)
• Ledoyen (19/20), Carré des Champs-Elysées - 75008 Paris (Classic)
• Epicure (19/20), 112 rue du Fg-Saint-Honoré - 75008 Paris ● Hotel Le Bristol (Classic)
• Pierre Gagnaire (19.5/20), 6 rue Balzac - 75008 Paris
• Alain Ducasse (19.5/20), 25 avenue Montaigne - 75008 Paris ● Hotel Plaza Athénée (Traditional)
• Astrance (19/20), 4 rue Beethoven - 75016 Paris
• Le Pré Catelan (19.5/20), Le Pré Catelan (Bois de Boulogne) - 75016 Paris (Inventive)
• Guy Savoy (19.5/20), 18 rue Troyon - 75017 Paris (Inventive)
2 Stars• Le Grand Véfour ( ) (19/20), 17 rue de Beaujolais - 75001 Paris (Traditional)
• L'Espadon (19/20), 15 place Vendôme - 75001 Paris ● Ritz Hotel (Traditional)
• Passage 53 , 53 passage des Panoramas - 75002 Paris
• Relais Louis XIII , 8 rue des Grands Augustins - 75006 Paris
• Carré des Feuillants (19/20), 14 rue de Castiglione - 75001 Paris (Inventive)
• Jean-François Piège (19/20), 79 rue Saint-Dominique - 75007 Paris
• L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Saint-Germain , 5 rue de Montalembert - 75007 Paris ● Hotel Pont Royal
• L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Etoile , 133 avenue des Champs-Élysées - 75008 Paris
• Senderens (Lucas Carton) , 9 place de la Madeleine - 75008 Paris
• Lasserre , 17 avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt - 75008 Paris (Traditional)
• Taillevent ( ) (19/20), 15 rue Lamennais - 75008 Paris
• Le Cinq ( ) (19/20), 31 avenue George V - 75008 Paris ● Four Seasons Hotel (Classic)
• Apicius (19/20), 20 rue d'Artois - 75008 Paris
• Jamin , 32 rue de Longchamp - 75116 Paris
• Michel Rostang (19/20), 20 rue Rennequin - 75017 Paris (Traditional)
• Bigarrade , 106 rue Nollet - 75017 Paris
1 Star• Gérard Besson , 5 rue du Coq Héron - 75001 Paris
• Goumard , 9 rue Duphot - 75001 Paris (Seafood)
• Le Céladon , 13 rue de la Paix - 75002 Paris
• Benoît , 20 rue St-Martin - 75004 Paris
• La Tour d'Argent , 15 quai de la Tournelle - 75005 Paris (Traditional)
• Paris , 45 boulevard Raspail - 75006 Paris
• Jacques Cagna , 14 rue des Grands-Augustins - 75006 Paris
• Hélène Darroze ( ), 4 rue d'Assas - 75006 Paris
• Caffé Minotti , 33 rue de Verneuil - 75007 Paris (Italian)
• Gaya Rive Gauche par Pierre Gagnaire , 44 rue du Bac - 75007 Paris
• Le Divellec , 107 rue de l'Université - 75007 Paris (Seafood)
• Le Chamarré , 13 boulevard La-Tour-Maubourg - 75007 Paris
• Les Ormes , 22 rue du Surcouf - 75007 Paris
• Violon d'Ingres , 135 rue St-Dominique - 75007 Paris
• Vin sur Vin , 20 rue de Monttessuy - 75007 Paris
• Les Ambassadeurs ( ) (17/20), 10 place de la Concorde - 75008 Paris ● Hotel du Crillon (Traditional)
• Le Laurent ( , 41 avenue Gabriel - 75008 Paris
• Relais d'Auteuil ( ) (16/20), 31 rue Murat - 75016 Paris
• La Luna , 69 rue du Rocher- 75008 Paris (Seafood)
• Stella Maris , 4 rue Arsène Houssaye - 75008 Paris
• Le W , 5 rue de Berri - 75008 Paris ● Warwick Hotel
• Table du Lancaster , 7 rue de Berri - 75008 Paris ● Lancaster Hotel
• Le Clovis , 14 rue Beaujon - 75008 Paris ● Sofitel Arc de Triomphe
• Carpaccio , 37 avenue Hoche - 75008 Paris (Italian) ● Royal Monceau Hotel
• Jardin , 37 avenue Hoche - 75008 Paris (Mediterranean) ● Royal Monceau Hotel
• L'Angle du Faubourg , 195 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré - 75008 Paris
• La Marée , 1 rue Daru - 75008 Paris
• Chiberta , 3 rue Arsène-Houssaye - 75008 Paris
• Les Élysées , 25 rue Vernet - 75008 Paris
• Marius et Janette , 4 avenue George V - 75008 Paris
• Copenhague , 142 avenue des Champs-Elysées - 75008 Paris (Scandinavian)
• Chez Jean , 8 rue Saint-Lazare - 75009 Paris
• Au Trou Gascon , 40 rue Taine - 75012 Paris
• Le Duc , 243 boulevard Raspail - 75014 Paris (Seafood)
• Montparnasse '25 , 19 rue du Commandant Mouchotte - 75014 Paris ● Hotel Le Méridien
• Maison Courtine , 157 avenue du Maine - 75014 Paris
• Chen-Soleil d'Est , 15 rue du Théâtre - 75015 Paris (Chinese, Asian)
• Jules Verne , Tour Eiffel - 75016 Paris
• La Table du Baltimore , 1 rue Leo Delibes - 75016 Paris ● Sofitel Baltimore
• Passiflore , 33 rue de Longchamp - 75116 Paris
• Tang , 125 rue de la Tour - 75116 Paris (Chinese & Thai)
• Le Relais du Parc , 59 avenue Raymond Poincaré - 75116 Paris ● Sofitel Le Parc
• Hiramatsu , 52 rue de Longchamp - 75116 Paris (Japanese-style French)
• Le Pergolèse , 40 rue Pergolèse - 75116 Paris
• Les Béatilles , 11 bis rue Villebois-Mareuil - 75017 Paris
• La Braisière , 54 rue Cardinet - 75017 Paris
• Sormani , 4 rue Général Lanrezac - 75017 Paris (Italian)
Hotelsle mareuil
51, rue de Malte, 11th
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