Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours, with Michel Tesseron, Owner, at  Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe, and Chef Bart Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC.

B Too and ombiasy PR and WineTours are excited to announce that we are hosting a winemaker dinner on May 4th - Champagne reception starts at 6:00 pm - with the wines of Château LAFON-ROCHET, 4ième Grand Cru Classé en 1855, appellation Saint-Estèphe.

Please join us in welcoming winemaker Anaïs Maillet, who will present the wines of the Tesseron’s family estate in the Médoc to us. This is a rare tasting opportunity where the long-standing ties between the Tesseron family and the terroir is evident in wines with a force and elegance not easily be achieved elsewhere.

Featured wines for the evening are:

Château LAFON-ROCHET 1996
Château LAFON-ROCHET 2000
Château LAFON-ROCHET 2006
Les PELERINS DE LAFON-ROCHET 2009

Calvert Woodley Fine Wine and Spirits is graciously supporting and promoting this event.

Since its opening a year ago B Too, sister restaurant of Belga Café on Capitol Hill, consistently receives high acclaims for its creative cuisine. Fresh, local, seasonal produce and continual creativity in the kitchen make every meal exceptional. The following menu will be prepared by Chef Bart Vandaele to pair with the fruit and earth profiles of each wine:

Welcome!

Chicken egg / Caviar lolly pop / Beet salad sponge cake
Champagne Eric Rodez Grand Cru Ambonnay

The Menu

Quail, endive, truffle, pear, peas
Château Les Pèlerins de Lafon-Rochet 2009
**
Lamb head to tail, cauliflower flan, thyme jus, spring garden
Château Lafon-Rochet 2006
**
Grilled short Rib, 3 carrots, provençale, sauce St. Estèphe
Château Lafon-Rochet 2000
**
Foie gras, cacao, brioche, 20 y balsamico, cherry B-waffle
Château Lafon-Rochet 1996

Reserve your seats for this event at $ 119.00 per person plus tax and gratuity now by contacting: B Too at (202) 627-2800 or by mail: info@btoo.com.

B Too, 1324 14th Street NW, Washington DC 20005

Visit Château LAFON-ROCHET with ombiasy PR and WineTours

This year again, ombiasy PR and WineTours is organizing a wine tour to Bordeaux, which will include a visit of and tasting at Château LAFON-ROCHET, with winemaker Anaïs Maillet and owners Michel (father) and Basile (son) Tesseron. For more information, see:

Upcoming in September 2014: Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasyPR– Bordeaux Immersion

or

ombiasy PR and WineTours

or talk with Annette Schiller at the tasting.

Picture: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller with Robert Schaetzle

The first winery we will visit on the Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours from September 14 – September 20, 2014, is Weingut Schloss Neuweier – Robert Schaetzle, in Baden. For more on the Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTour, see:

Upcoming in September 2014: Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR - The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South)
or
ombiasy PR and WineTours 

This tour is one of 3 tours by ombiasyPR coming up in 2014:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

Weingut Schloss Neuweier - Robert Schaetzle

Weingut Schloss Neuweier, although not well known in the US, is a very special, premium wine producer in Baden, with a long history:

Picture: Arriving at Weingut Schloss Neuweier

(1) The winery is part of the wonderfully restored, historic castle Schloss Neuweier, where wine has been made for centuries.

(2) Schloss Neuweier also includes a top notch restaurant, where we will have lunch during our visit. The restaurant is in the first floor of the castle. It is owned and run by Chef Armin Roettle and his wife and since 2006 in the 1 star Michelin category.

(3) Weingut Schloss Neuweier focuses on Riesling wines, which are outstanding. You would expect that in the Mosel or the Rheingau region, but not in Baden. Reflecting the special soil of the vineyards surrounding the castle and the special micro-climate there as well as a long-standing Riesling tradition and passion, Weingut Schloss Neuweier produces world class Rieslings.

(4) The export share of Weingut Schloss Neuweier is negligible, which is typical for the Baden region. But this may change for Weingut Schloss Neuweier in the future and was not like this in the past. Its Mauerwein (Wall wine – from a terraced vineyard on the hill behind the castle) was one of Queen Victoria’s favorites. It had won an award at the International Exhibition of Philadelphia in 1876 and was on the airship Graf Zeppelin’s maiden flight.

(5) Until recently, the driving force behind Schloss Neuweier, including Weingut Schloss Neuweier, was Gisela Joos. She and her husband, a well-known architect from Frankfurt am Main, took over the castle, including the winery, in 1992 and invested around Euro 50 million in the castle, including the winery. What you see today is essentially due to their efforts and money. In 1999, Weingut Neuweier was admitted to the prestigious VDP association, when Gisela Joos was in charge.

(6) Today, the “Schlossherr” (owner) of Schloss Neuweier and the winemaker at Weingut Schloss Neuweier is Robert Schaetzle. His family acquired the estate in 2012. The senior management of the winery of course changed with Robert taking over. The already high quality level of the wines was definitely maintained if not increased by Robert Schaetzle. The Joos family is still living in the castle, but on a lease basis. Also, the lease of the 1 star restaurant was not affected by the change in ownership.

History

When we arrived, Robert suggested to walk over to the vineyards first. While walking there, he introduced us to the rich history of Schloss Neuweier.

The castle belongs to the few historic buildings from the 12th century that still exist. Die Ritter von Bach were the first who started planting vines and producing wine. All subsequent owners showed interested in winemaking.

Its current shape took the castle, when it was owned by Philipp Kämmerer von Worms, called von Dalberg. During 1548 to 1549, this gentleman created the castle as you can see it today. To remind everyone of his creation he put in the entry portal: Zeyt bryngt Rosen – Time brings Roses.

In 1615, the castle was passed onto the second daughter of Philipp von Dalberg, whose husband was Wolf von Eltz and Knebel von Katzenellenbogen. Katzenellenbogen was a high ranking knight who fought under the rule of the Archbishop of Mainz. He also was an important person in terms of winemaking at Weingut Schloss Neuweier. He brought his knowledge from the Franken area, the Bocksbeutel bottles and the Niersteiner and the Laubenheimer grape varities, which replaced the traditional Elblinger and Ortlieber.

During the 19th century the castle changed its owners quiet frequently. From 1869, the Rößler family from Baden-Baden became the owner of the castle. The Rößler family is responsible for the Mauerberg vineyard gaining international recognition.

The Joos family bought the estate including all the buildings and the vineyard in 1992. With great enthusiasm and financial investments they brought the castle and all the attached buildings back to the full bloom, which you can still admire today. The renovations were completed in 2009.

In 2012, the estate was sold to the family of Robert Schaetzle; they come from a traditional vintners background in the Kaiserstuhl area near Freiburg.

The Vineyards

The heart of the vineyard area (15 hectares) of Weingut Schloss Neuweier are two very steep monopoly sites: Schlossberg and Goldenes Loch.

Pictures: In the Vineyard

Robert Schaetzle: Schlossberg - This is a monopoly site of 3 hectares of south-facing slopes with up to 55°incline, entirely Riesling. The soil is very special, made up of ground granite, schist, shale and slate. Due to being close to an extinct volcano you also find quartz crystals on the surface. The climate is defined by being on the lower slopes of the Black Forrest Mountains and close to the Rhine plateau and in combination with the soil is ideal growing grounds for Riesling. The Riesling grown here gets a lot of sun during the day and at night the release of the heat that was accumulated during the day in the soil.

Goldenes Loch - Another monopoly site of 1 hectare south-west facing cauldron between the Schlossberg and the Mauerberg. The name was established because of the foliage glowing golden in the autumn sun due to the concave mirror effect caused by the cauldron, catching the last rays of the day. The extreme incline of 60° or more was the main reason it was left alone but in 1993 the land was reclaimed by using small diagonal terraces. The grapes grown here produce exquisite Riesling wines.

Mauerberg: This is a south facing site. Historically, 60% of the Mauerberg was terraced, with each terrace large enough for one or two vines. The man-high natural stone walls contribute to the micro climate for the vines by keeping the warmth during the day as well as being dried be the wind from the Black Forest.

Heiligenstein: The name seems to originate from the Celtic culture stating a magical powerful place, which it is still today. The foundation is full of granite being enjoyed by our young Pinot Noir vines. Here is where we get our very clean, clear classical red wines from.

Wine Cellar

Robert showed us the wine cellar.

Pictures: In the Winecellar

Robert Schaetzle

Robert Schaetzle is a very interesting and charming fellow, with curly, almost Afro-style hair and a strong regional southern Baden accent. He lives at the castle with his French wife and one son, if I remember correctly.

Pictures: Robert Schaetzle

Robert has not appeared out of nowhere. He has put in time at serious wineries over the years – at Franz Keller and Dr. Heger in Baden, across the Rhine in Alsace with Zind-Humbrecht and Marc Kreydenweiss, and in Bordeaux at La Tour de By. Before turning to wine, Robert was in academia. He studied at Université Bordeaux Segalen in France.

Classification

In terms of classification, Robert Schaetzle follows strictly the VDP approach. In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The VDP classification now consists of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Portfolio

We then went to the tasting room. Robert had prepared a little tasting, which took us through his portfolio. Here is an overview of his portfolio, with the ex-winery prices in Euro:

Picture: Tasting

GUTSWEINE WEISS 750 ml

2012 Riesling trocken 7,90
2012 CUVÉE BLANC Riesling x Weißer Burg. x Chardonnay trocken 9,30
2012 Blanc de Noir trocken 9,30

GUTSWEINE ROSÉ 750 ml

2012 Rosé trocken 8,50

GUTSWEINE ROT 750 ml

2011 Spätburgunder trocken 8,50

ORTSWEINE WEISS 750 ml

2012 Neuweierer Riesling "ALTE REBEN" trocken 11,90
2012 Neuweierer Riesling "RS" trocken 11,90
2012 Neuweierer Riesling trocken 11,90
2012 Neuweierer Weißer Burgunder "RS" trocken 12,00
2012 Neuweierer Chardonnay "JUNGE REBEN" trocken 11,00

ORTSWEINE ROT 750 ml

2012 Neuweier Spätburgunder trocken 8,50

Pictures: Tasting

ERSTE LAGE WEISS 750 ml

2012 Schlossberg Riesling mild (BB) 15,00
2012 Schlossberg Riesling trocken 15,00
2012 Mauerberg Riesling trocken 15,00
2012 Neuweier Schlossberg Muskateller Spätlese 14,00

ERSTE LAGE ROT 750 ml

2012 Neuweier Heiligenstein Spätburgunder trocken 14,00

GROSSE GEWÄCHSE 750 ml

2012 Goldenes Loch GG 23,00
2012 Mauerwein GG 23,00

EDELSÜSSE WEINE 500 ml

2010 Riesling Beerenauslese 64,00
2010 Riesling Auslese 22,00
2010 Scheurebe Auslese 22,00
2012 GRAND CUVÉE Riesling x Gewürztraminer Auslese 22,00

Pictures: Tasting

SEKTSPEZIALITÄTEN 750 ml

2011 Riesling brut 15,00
2011 Spätburgunder Rosé extra trocken 15,00

WEINE IN LITERFLASCHEN

2012 Riesling trocken 7,00

Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Vineyard area (hectare): 18 ha
Varietal in %: 88 % Riesling 8 % Spätburgunder 3 % Weißburgunder 1 % Gewürztraminer
Output per year: 98.000 Flaschen

Röttele’s Restaurant and Residence at Schloss Neuweier 

During the time of Jacoba Stoltenberg Rössler, the last owner of the Baden-Baden family, who died in 1984, a “Besenwirtschaft” (basic wine tavern, where the winemaker sells his own wine) was opened that over time developed into a fine dining restaurant. Today, Röttele’s Restaurant and Residence at Schloss Neuweier is a restaurant well-known in Germany.

Picture: Röttele’s Restaurant and Residence at Schloss Neuweier

Robert Schaetzle: We were very lucky that in the year 2005 the family Röttele took on the restaurant on the ground floor of the castle. Mr. Röttele is a very inspiring and inventive Chef whose creations leaves your mouth watering. Mr. Röttele’s talent was internationally recognized so it was not surprise that he gained 1 Star from the Michelin in 2006.

See you in September

Thanks Robert and see you again in September 2014 on the The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours.


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RALF FRENZEL (ed.): Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, 255 pp., ISBN 978-3-941641-94-5 (English), E49.90.

This is a heavy book: it weighs almost 2 kilograms and unites two heavyweights - Riesling, arguably the best white grape variety in the world, and Weingut Robert Weil, one of the best Riesling producers in the world. The first in a new series of books from Tre Torri, covering the most outstanding wine estates of the world, it covers the complex topic of Riesling through the example of the top German wine producer Weingut Robert Weil. Readers should not expect to be informed about the Riesling grape variety in general, as perhaps the main title, Riesling, suggests.

More than half of the 255 pages are mostly wonderful pictures, and some text pages also include pictures. It is not only a book with a most interesting text but also one with great pictures of wine.

Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory, the Japanese beverage group. With 75 hectares - exclusively Riesling - under vine, it is one of the largest estates in Germany. The estate’s dedication to Riesling has led numerous observers of the international wine world to regard Weingut Robert Weil as a worldwide symbol of German Riesling culture. A Riesling wine of the 1893 vintage, grown on the Gräfenberg site, made the estate famous. The imperial Habsburg court in Vienna purchased 800 bottles of this wine in 1900 at 16 gold marks per bottle. Weingut Robert Weil’s top botrytized wines are sold today at very high prices—they are among the most expensive in the world. Although best known for its Noble-Sweet Rieslings, Weingut Weil produces mainly fully fermented, dry wines, including ultrapremium Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru) wines.

Five authors contributed to the book, which is divided into six chapters.

Written by Editor Ralf Frenzel, Chapter 1 is the prologue, offering a portrait of Wilhelm Weil. It paints him as a winemaker who has done a lot not only for his own estate but also for the region, the famous Rheingau, and for Germany.

Chapter 2 is a very detailed and well-researched account of the history ofWeingut Weil by Daniel Deckers, against the background of the Rheingau region and German wine history. Deckers discovered the world’s oldest classification map, which was prepared in 1868 by Friedrich Wilhelm von Dünkelberg and classified for the first time the vineyards of the Rheingau. Deckers describes the founding of the winery in Kiedrich by Dr. Robert Weil, who had lived and taught at the Sorbonne in Paris but was forced to leave France and return to Germany because of the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871). He joined his brother August in Kiedrich and bought the first vineyards in 1870. In 1879, he moved into the former estate of Sir John Sutton, baronet, which remains the home of Weingut Weil . The first auction of his wines at Burg Crass in 1881 was a failure, but when the German emperor began buying the 1893 Weingut Weil Auslese, the Weil wines gained renown.

In 1988, the estate was sold to Suntory, and Wilhelm Weil was appointed managing director, retaining a minority ownership share.

Chapter 3, by Dieter Bartetzko, deals with the architectural ensemble of the Weil property. Sir John Sutton bought a tiny, dilapidated winegrower’s cottage in 1869 and transformed it into a small country estate in the Tudor style, which does not have to fear comparison with the original Tudor manors in Sutton’s home country of England. Thereafter, over the years, a number of new structures have been added, including the Vinothek (wine store) built with generous glass paneling that faces the courtyard, in the 1990s, and the new extension finished only recently. But the Tudor-style house built by Sutton remains the heart of the estate. The historical manor house, the ultramodern cellars and the Vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park, reflecting the same synthesis of old and new that is in the estate’s winemaking philosophy.

Chapter 4 ostensibly comprises an interview with Wilhelm Weil, centering on the question: “What makes a great Riesling?” It is not, in fact, an interview but a lecture by Weil, transcribed by Christian Goeldenboog. There are no questions, at least no explicit ones. And it is not about Riesling in general; it is about the Riesling wines produced by Weingut Weil in the Rheingau region in Germany. Wilhelm Weil is one of the vice-presidents of the Vereinigung deutscher Praedikatsweingueter (VDP), the association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany, and the chapter also reflects the thinking of the VDP. Importantly, the VDP is in the process of radically changing the way in which German wine is classified by moving to a classification system that resembles the classification system of the Bourgogne in France, which is terroir driven.

Chapter 5, by Goeldenboog, deals with the work in the vineyard and in the cellar and is divided into four subchapters. The first subchapter, “Riesling Has Style,” reads a bit like a continuation of Chapter 3 and has Wilhelm Weil talking about his winemaking approach and wines.

The following subchapter, “Rock, Soil, the Rheingau and the Ecosystem,” reviews the terroir of the Rheingau in general and that of the three vineyards, where Weingut Weil owns land and grows its wines—in particular, Kiedricher Klosterberg, Kiedricher Gräfenberg, and Kiedricher Turmberg.

Weingut Weil’s vineyards all belong to the group of the high-lying sites of the Rheingau: Inclination (up to 60%), exposure (southwest), and the ability of the barren stony soils to absorb heat are the factors that make for three perfect Riesling sites. These conditions, as well as ideal circulation, enable the grapes to stay on the vine for a long time, ripening well into November.

Kiedricher Gräfenberg: The soil consists of deep and medium-deep stony, fragmented phyllite partially mixed with loess and loam. At the end of the twelfth century, the site was first documented as mons rhingravii (lit., the hill of the Rhine counts), and, in 1258, it was named “Grevenberg.” To this day, Gräfenberg is a focal point. The record prices it fetches at auction bear witness to the site’s renown.

Kiedricher Klosterberg: The name Klosterberg (lit., monastery hill) derives from “Closterweg,” the old path that ran through this vineyard in Kiedrich en route between the monastery Kloster Eberbach and its mill near Eltville. The shallow to deep stony-gritty soils of the southwesterly facing site are of Devonian (colored slate) and pre-Devonian (phyllite and sericite gneiss) origin and are mixed with gravelly loess.

Kiedricher Turmberg: After the founding of Weingut Robert Weil, the Turmberg site was always considered one of the estate’s top sites, second only to Gräfenberg. The name Turmberg (lit., tower hill) derives from the surviving central tower of the former castle Burg Scharfenstein, which stands on that site. The archbishops of Mainz had the castle built on the steep crag northeast of Kiedrich in 1160. Turmberg lies on the slopes of a steep, slaty crag. Its stony-gritty soils consist primarily of phyllite mixed with small portions of loess and loam. After passage of the wine law of 1971 and its amendment of the vineyard register, numerous traditional vineyards, like Turmberg, were incorporated into other vineyards. In 2005, the Turmberg parcel was reinstated as an individual vineyard site, measuring 3.8 ha (9.4 acres). It is owned solely by Weingut Robert Weil.

The third subchapter, “Fruit—Maturity,” talks about the 12-month vineyard cycle and dwells in particular on the issue of the optimal moment to harvest the Riesling grapes (in a northern wine region). Of course, at Weingut Weil special attention is paid to work in the vineyard. Another quality factor is the low yield, achieved by restrictive pruning, thinning out the grapes twice, carrying out a negative selection at an early stage, and a selective hand-picking process. At Weingut Weil, the harvest can be spread over a period of 8 to 10 weeks. Each row of vines can be picked over up to 17 times. When botrytised grapes are picked, they are selected in the vineyard and immediately sorted into three different containers, depending on the degree of botrytis. The grapes are again selected berry for berry in the cellar.

The last subchapter reviews in detail the process of alcoholic fermentation, focused more on historical aspects and less on how it is done at Weingut Weil. At Weingut Weil, vinification takes place in stainless steel tanks of varying sizes (depending on the size of an individual lot) and in traditional mature oak casks (“Rheingauer Stückfass”: 1,200 liters).

Chapter 6 contains tasting notes by Caro Maurer, Master of Wine, of about 40 wines of Weingut Robert Weil, all from the Kiedricher Gräfenberg, mostly from the 1990 to 2011 vintages, ranging from ultrapremium dry Erstes Gewächs wines to luscious Noble-Sweet Trockenbeerenauslese wines.

To sum up: this is a great book about Riesling. It is not a general introduction. The book tells the story of the Riesling grape through the perspective of one of the world’s top Riesling wine producers, Weingut Robert Weil from Kiedrich in Germany. It does this with many wonderful pictures from Weingut Robert Weil and the Rheingau region, and with a number of most interesting text contributions by various German Riesling experts.

Christian G.E. Schiller
International Monetary Fund (ret.) and emeritus professor, University of Mainz, Germany
Cschiller@schiller-wine.com
doi:10.1017/jwe.2014.6

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller Tasting with Helmut Doennhoff, see: An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

Terry Theise is one of the leading experts of German Wine in the US. Among the vast number of his followers, he has gained something like a cult status. He publishes a thick catalogue once a year with extensive comments. In addition to the compendium of exciting wine reviews, the Terry Theise’s annual catalogue is a very good introduction to German wine, both to the basics and to the current trends and issues.

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik, an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

If you want to learn more about Terry, the Washington Post carried an excellent article about him some time ago. See here.

2008 James Beard Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
2005 Food & Wine Magazine Importer of the Year

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik, an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

For previous years, see:
Terry Theise: 2012 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany
Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA
2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage
Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

A few comments. First, there are no red wines, although they now account for 1/3 of the German wine output. Terry is clearly focusing on Germany’s white wines. Second, nor have I seen a category for sparkling wines; for sparklers, you have to go to his excellent portfolio of Champagnes, including many grower Champagnes. Third, his list does not include any noble-sweet wines (Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein). Fourth, Terry is known for having a preference for sweet-style wines, although his portfolio increasingly includes also dry wines. Fifth, as mentioned above, this is not a list based on a comprehensive review of German wine, but is limited to Terry Theise’s portfolio of winemakers, which is large and exceptional.

Here is Terry Theise in o-tone. I have added a couple of pictures of the winemakers I have met personally, including references to relevant postings on schiller-wine. Terry Theise

The 2013 Vintage in Germany

The good news is there are plenty of good wines, a decent number of outstanding wines and a small but significant number of superb wines. My job is to find them for you, and I did my job. But another part of my job is to build and maintain trust with you, and here I run afoul of a collateral worry; I can annoy my growers if I am too blunt when they have a dud year. So I am going to tell you as much of the truth as I think you need to hear and they can bear to hear. Of course part of my job is to sell wine, and that entails being able to spin and be relentlessly positive. A grower has every right to believe I’m working on his/her behalf. I have an equal right to suggest that I am most effective for them if my customers believe me. So, watch me pick my delicate way through the thickets.

When 2013 works it gives wines of great relief and contrast; these are vivid wines. They’re almost never creamy, but they are sometimes quite silky. They can seem deliciously savage at times, like a raspy-voiced singer; it isn’t a “pretty” voice but still you love it. 2013s are high in acidity and stunningly high in extract; this is tactile and discernible, not a metaphor. That said, bottling will often subdue this component, not insofar as it exists but insofar as it can be tasted. At that point extract behaves as a buffer to acidity (and to sweetness if it is there) and confers a richness to the mid-palate. 2013s are often high in botrytis, and the degree to which botrytis was managed is a leitmotif of the vintage.

As such ’13 invites comparison to two previous vintages, 2010 and 2000. But it is both less ripe and not as monstrously high in acidity as ’10 was. It has in common with ’10 its tendency to an almost monumental solidity along with always-prominent (and sometimes unbalanced) acids. Regarding 2000, nearly every grower told me the conditions in ’13 were less challenging, there was less overall mildew, plus they’d learned from the earlier vintage and were better prepared this time. All of this may very well be true. The best 2000s have aged surprisingly well, but that “best” is a slim tip of a large iceberg….

The vintage is very small. Many growers made one-third of an average year. At best it was 40-50% below average, coming on the heels of the short crops of 2012 and 2010, and so every possible wine was on the table.

HIGHLIGHTS AND SUPERLATIVES

(For any new readers, we have in effect retired Mr. Dönnhoff’s number, because otherwise he’d have all the best wines. Cornelius might well wish to see some actual kudos – not that he needs to be affirmed by the likes of me – but I hope he and you will appreciate that his hors classe estate occupies the highest of summits, and it would be boring to see his name infinitely repeated.)

THE WINERY OF THE VINTAGE IS:

I hate giving this to the same estate twice in a row, but truth is truth, and VON WINNING is showing that their glorious collection in 2012 was no fluke, but instead the arrival at a lofty place they shall continue to set up house in. Believe me, I wondered. Because those astonishing ‘12s might have been lavished with pixie-dust from the weightless weight of the creamy vintage style. Would the ‘13s be arch and angular again? Not a bit of it. These guys are here to stay. It is conceivable that Von Winning ‘13s will be a little tiny bit less grand than their ‘12s, but it’s definite that their ‘13s are dramatically better than almost everything around them.

I spent a couple days of R&R in Burgundy, and I took a bottle of ’12 Pechstein GG as a gift to each grower I visited. “What is it like?” they asked. I looked for an easy shorthand way to say it. Imagine François Raveneau made Riesling in the Pfalz instead of Chardonnay in Chablis: That’s what it’s like. Any doubt I ever harbored about the impact of Stefan Attmann’s somewhat atavistic style of “winemaking” is now quelled. These wines are miracles.

OTHER MARKED SUCCESSES:

It is a markedly fine vintage at Müller-Catoir, perhaps even better then ’12, hard as that is to believe. I was also struck by the sure hand and steadily increasing polish at Kruger-Rumpf. I’ve already told you about Merkelbach. My personal darling Carl Loewen keeps having outstanding vintages.

There’s a paradox in which estates who always show an intelligent hand of craftsmanship can get overlooked, just because they did it yet again. We come to expect it of them, so when they keep performing it isn’t news. But attention must be paid to the passionate diligence of Selbach-Oster and Schlossgut Diel.

2013 was especially kind to a few estates who flourished by dint of its acid-structure. These include Eugen Müller, Theo Minges, Jakob Schneider (who’s on a steady upward climb in any case) and Reuscher-Haart.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Armin and Caroline Diel at Schlossgut Diel. See: Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

THE WINE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

Von Othegraven Kanzem Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben. This is just an improbable miracle from this vintage, and though it won’t “create sales” as much as a less expensive nominee would, an achievement such as this must be recognized.

THE WINE OF THE ENTIRE OFFERING IS:

A late-released (because long-fermented) 2012 Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Feinherb, an utter Mosel masterpiece, showing a thrilling and soulful pathway to a new/old dialect of slate-grown Riesling that you simply shouldn’t miss.

RUNNERS UP INCLUDE:

Müller-Catoir Mandelgarten Riesling Spätlese
Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese
Merkelbach Uerziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese #9

THE AUSLESE OF THE VINTAGE IS:

(bearing in mind I selected very few Auslesen this year) Müller-Catoir Herzog Rieslaner Auslese, along with Selbach-Oster Schmitt, two utterly different wines, neither of them at all “dessert” like, each powerfully savory, each a thrall of masterly beauty.

THE KABINETTS OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett

THE BIGGEST SURPRISES OF THE VINTAGE ARE:

Schneider Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Trocken, (a markedly expressive wine from this normally opaque terroir, I can barely recall a superior young Dellchen. Dönnhoff’s was also unusually expressive at this early stage.)

Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc, because pyrene-averse little me was quite overcome by how good this was!

THE GREATEST DRY WINES ARE:

The entire Von Winning collection of GGs, especially….no, actually: ALL of them.
Schlossgut Diel Pittermännchen Riesling GG
Kruger-Rumpf Pittersberg Riesling GG
Müller-Catoir Haardt Muskateller (just show me a better Muscat, go on, just do it)

THE GREATEST INEXPENSIVE DRY WINES ARE:

Eugen Müller Forster Pechstein Riesling Spätlese Trocken
Schneider Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Trocken

THE GREATEST OF THE GREATEST RESTAURANT CATEGORY, THE FOOD-FRIENDLIEST MOSTEST PERFECTEST RIESLING WINE, THE DAMN-NEAR-DRY WINE:

Kruger-Rumpf Dautenpflänzer Riesling Feinherb

Picture: With Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf (Nahe Valley) in the Vineyard. See: Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

THE ABSOLUTE TOP VALUE:

Merkelbach Uerziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese #7 (though its sister wine the “Urglück” is also an amazing bargain).

THE ABSOLUTE MOST FUN:

Weingart Spay Riesling Kabinett Feinherb
Darting St Laurent (2011, first being offered)

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Upcoming in September 2014: German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR - Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North)

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Impressions from the Mainz Wine Market 2013, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours

Following her presentation at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia/South Jersey a few weeks ago, Annette Schiller, Ombiasy PR and WineTours, gave a similar presentation and led a tasting – with different wines – at the German Wine Society in Washington DC.

See:
New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

As in Philadelphia, Annette talked about “New Developments in German Wine”, including the emerging new wine regions in the eastern part of Germany, the German red wine boom, and the new German Wine Classification, which is being pushed by the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers. She also briefly talked about the 2 wine tours coming up to Germany that she is organizing and leading.

The German Red Wine Boom

There is a red wine boom in Germany. The share of red wines in terms of production has increased from 10 percent in the 1980s to about 35 percent now in Germany. Of course, given its location, the German red wines tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse. 30 years ago, in the international scene, people would not talk about German red wine. But this has changed. Germany now produces red wines that can compete with the best of the world.

4 Approaches to Classifying German Wine

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. There are four approaches to classifying wine in Germany. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the powerful group of German elite winemakers, the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten), which has conceived its own classification system. Other winemakers moved to a zero classification system – no classification, an approach very familiar in the New World. Finally, there is a fourth group of winemakers that have designed their own classification system.

See also:
QbA, Kabinett, Spaetlese….No, there is not just 1, but there are 4 Different Wine Classification Systems in Germany

The VDP Classification

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

See:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany 

Germany Wine Tours by ombiasy in 2014

As in previous years, the husband and wife team Annette and Christian Schiller will personally guide the tours throughout the trip. Through our friendships with many winemaker and owners, the tours are a very intimate, personal experience for everyone in the small group (10 people maximum) traveling with us.

Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North): From September 04 – September 13, 2014, we will explore six (Saale-Unstrut, Franken, Rheingau, northern Rheinhessen, Mosel, Nahe) German wine regions with visits to 19 top wineries and cultural gems.

The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South): From September 14 – September 20, 2014, we will explore three wine regions (Baden, Pfalz, southern Rheinhessen) in the south of Germany and will experience the German red wine revolution.

For the exact itinerary, prices and other questions, visit the ombiasy Public Realtions website:
ombiasy Public Relations.

The Germany tours are 2 of 3 tours by ombiasy coming up in 2014:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

For a summary of the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, see:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Picture: Tasting in the Courtyard of Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, during the 2013 Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy

The Tasting

The wines were selected by Annette Schiller. She choose 2 wines from the cellar of the German Wine Society and the remainder from the portfolio of Mac Arthur Beverages in Washington DC.

RED

2010 Spätburgunder, Becker, Trocken, Pfalz
2008 Lemberger, Schnaitmann, Trocken, Württemberg

WHITE

2012 Riesling, Dönnhoff, Trocken, Nahe
2012 Riesling, Pur Mineral, Fürst, Trocken, Franken
2012 Riesling, Rüdesheimer Klosterlay, Kabinett, Leitz, Rheingau
2010 Riesling, Oberemmeler Hütte, Kabinett, Von Hövel, Mosel
2011 Riesling, Marienburg, GG, Clemens Busch, Mosel
2009 Riesling, Dautenplanzer, GG Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe
2012 Riesling, Kiedricher Grafenberg, Spätlese, Weil, Rheingau
2012 Riesling, Westhofener Kirchspiel, Spätlese, Keller, Rheinhessen

schiller-wine: Related Postings

3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

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Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA

QbA, Kabinett, Spaetlese….No, there is not just 1, but there are 4 Different Wine Classification Systems in Germany

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany  

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller at Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

When I got interested in “fine dining” in the 1970s, Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen was certainly a place one had to go and eat there. Indeed, we did this many times over the years.

With this background, Annette incorporated a lunch cum wine tasting at the Restaurant Schwarzer Adler during the upcoming Sun-kissed South Germany Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours

As part of the recent pre-tour visits, Annette and I had lunch at the Schwarzer Adler and also visited the impressive, new winery of Fritz Keller, half a mile down the road from Restaurant Schwarzer Adler.

See:
Pre-tour Visits: Schloss Neuweier, Franz Keller, von Gleichenstein, Dr. Heger and Restaurant Schwarzer Adler - The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) by ombiasy

Picture: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller at Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen

The Franz Keller Empire

The founder of the Keller Empire is the late Franz Keller. Franz Keller (1927 – 2007) probably was Germany’s most important early proponent of fully-fermented, dry wines and the use of barriques. He had 2 sons. One of them – Franz Keller - was initially the Chef of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, but eventually moved to Hattenheim in the Rheingau, where he is the owner and chef at the Adlerwirtschaft. The other one – Fritz Keller – took over from his father in the 1980s and expanded the empire further.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Bettina Keller

Today, the Keller empire comprises a luxury hotel (Hotel Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen), 3 restaurants (the Michelin starred Schwarzer Adler, the more basic Rebstock, just across the street, and the KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery), a fine wine trading company, focusing on Bordeaux and Bourgogne, Weingut Franz Keller (recently joined the VDP, the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany) and the Edition Fritz Keller project, a very successful trademark wine project with the discount chain Aldi.

Fritz Keller, in addition to his activity as winemaker, wine trader and restaurateur, is also president of the German football club SC Freiburg.

Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Schwarzer Adler is a truly iconic restaurant that has been founded by Franz Keller. In the 1 star Michelin category, this traditional restaurant offers a harmonious mix of Baden country charm and elegance. The menu is a successful marriage of French and German cuisine reflecting the frontier on the nearby Rhine River, which is the border between Germany and France. The impressive wine list boasts 2 600 different wines, including a good selection of bottles from both Baden and France.

Pictures: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller at Franz Keller’s Schwarzer Adler in Oberbergen with Sommeliere Melanie Wagner

Fritz Keller: Elegance, style and hospitality with a perceptible French influence create an unmistakable ambiance at our Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. In the kitchens of master chef Anibal Strubinger and Hubert Pfingstag nearby France is as present as the much-lauded local Baden cuisine. The combination of both these influences at the very highest level forms the culinary character of the house.

Other Restaurants and Hotel Schwarzer Adler

Rebstock is a more basic restaurant, just across the street of the Schwarzer Adler, which has of course different food, but the same wine list as the Schwarzer Adler. The KellerWirtschaft, which is part of the new winery, half a mile down the road from the Schwarzer Adler.

Hotel Schwarzer Adler belongs to the group “Small Luxory Hotels in the World”. It is in the main building, where the restaurant Schwarzer Adler is and also has some rooms in a separate building.

Weingut Franz Keller

With the Keller family everything started with producing and offering outstanding food. Franz and his wife Irma were among the first generation of chefs to start the German revolution in the kitchen more than 50 years ago. In 1969 Franz and Irma Keller and their restaurant Schwarze Adler were awarded one Michelin star. For Franz Keller, the central idea of winemaking was to produce top quality wines that perfectly accompanied the creations in the kitchen. The current generation, Fritz and Bettina Keller have brought the winery to a new level. They just finished construction of a brand new winery that is an architectural landmark, beautifully integrated in the landscape. Their efforts to produce top wines, among them stunning Pinot Noirs, were acknowledged by their selection as new member of the VDP in 2013.

Pictures: Touring the New Winery

Fritz Keller: Initially, everything revolved around gastronomy for the Kellers. To make wines that partner food perfectly has thus always been central to their winemaking. In vineyard and winery, just as in the kitchens of the restaurants, the greatest attention is paid to the raw materials. Only grapes of a select quality – this is our conviction – can go on to develop their own character which speaks of the terroir and the estate.

Trading in Fine Wine

Fritz Keller: Trading in fine wines has been a tradition of more than 100 years in the Keller family. To this day, the focus is on the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy: a unique portfolio unequalled in quality and breadth encompassing wines from the most prestigious vineyards and chateaux, completed by selected wines from other European and New World regions.

Picture: The Impressive Storage Cellar

It was the grandfather of the current patron Fritz Keller who started the tradition, selling Kaiserstuhl wines at the turn of the last century to the budding tourist towns and spas of the Black Forest and Alsace, returning with their local wines. Franz Keller built on his father’s efforts and forged invaluable relationships with growers in the Bordelais and in Burgundy – they form the basis of the great selection of first-rate Bordeaux and Burgundy wines that has become the hallmark of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler. Beyond that, there is a selected array of international and (a few) German wines and not least the Champagnes, Ports, Sherries and Digestifs – all of these have just one thing in common: they are of the high standard that our house aspires to.

Edition Fritz Keller

Edition Fritz Keller is a highly successful collaboration of Fritz Keller with Aldi, Germany's legendary discount food retailer. Under the brand name Edition Fritz Keller, he initially (in 2007) produced a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Blanc from Baden, contracting with a great many smaller growers of the region for grapes. In this quest to bring top-quality wine to as many people as possible, Fritz has, as the back label pompously informs us, found inspiration in the "Bauhaus" school of architecture and art. The portfolio has now expanded to more than half a dozen wines.

Lunch

Sekt


Greetings from the Kitchen


Ceviche vom Kabeljau mit Mais, Paprika, Violetten Zwiebeln und Crostini


St. Petersfisch mit Pinienkernen auf Rosmarinsauce und Schwazem Venere-Risotto


Medaillons von Vorderwaelder Kalb mit Spaetburgundersauce, Morcheln, Gruenem und Weissem Spargel, und Gnocchi


Kaese


Erdbeer und Rhabarbar in der Kokoshippe mit Rosenemulsion und Erdbeersorbet


Petits Fours


Wines


Last Guest 

Thanks and see you soon again - in September on the Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTour, see:

Upcoming in September 2014: Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR - The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South)
or
ombiasy PR and WineTours 

This tour is one of 3 tours by ombiasyPR coming up in 2014:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux


schiller-wine - Related Postings

Pre-tour Visits: Schloss Neuweier, Franz Keller, von Gleichenstein, Dr. Heger and Restaurant Schwarzer Adler - The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) by ombiasy

Upcoming in September 2014: German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR - Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North)

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose

German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine

Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany

Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Tasting at Weingut Balthasar Ress, Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Stefan Ress, Germany

Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany

An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany

The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany

Impressions from the Mainz Wine Market 2013, Germany

Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011

Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany

Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Matthias Adams, Weingut von Racknitz, at 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit, see: 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

At the recent 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit (2014 Apple Wine World Wide) event in Frankfurt am Main, I was surprised to spot among the apple wine, (hard) cider, cidre, sidra producers from Germany and other European countries Weingut von Racknitz, which is an up and coming wine producer, owned and run by the husband and wife team Louise von Racknitz-Adams and Matthias Adams. Indeed, Matthias Adam had brought to the event 4 of his excellent wines, made out of grapes, but he had also brought a lightly sparkling apple wine, made out of apples: NV Apfelperlwein Glasperlenspiel.

Weingut von Racknitz

Weingut von Racknitz is an up and coming winery in Odernheim in the Nahe Valley. It was founded in 2003 by the husband and wife team Louise von Racknitz-Adams and Matthias Adams. Louise von Racknitz-Adams is a winemaker by training (University Geisenheim) and she takes the lead in the cellar. Matthias Adams is a former business manager with a law degree and he takes the lead in the vineyard.

Picture: Matthias Adams, Weingut von Racknitz

Weingut von Racknitz is the former winery of the famous Disibodenberg Monastery, where Hildegard von Bingen spent 40 years of her life. Hildegard von Bingen is the first representative of the German medieval mysticism. She was active in the fields of religion, cosmology, science, philosophy, music composition, poetry, botany and linguistics. For over 200 years, winery and monastery ruins have been owned by the von Racknitz family.

The vineyard area totals 15 hectares in the Rotenfels (Traisen), Königsfels (Schloßböckelheim), Kloster Disibodenberg (almost exclusive possession)(Odernheim), Hermannshöhle, Kertz, Klamm, Kieselberg (Oberhausen) and Rosenheck (Niederhausen). The heart of the vineyards is the Disibodenberg, where monks already grew vines 900 years ago. The Hermannshöhle is one of the best Riesling vineyards in Germany.

Picture: Matthias Adams, Weingut von Racknitz

In the vineyard, Matthias Adams follows an organic approach. In the wine cellar, Louise von Racknitz-Adams follows the natural wine making approach. All wines are spontaneously fermented. The wines remain in stainless steel tanks on the lees until they are bottled.

Classification

The wines are grouped into 5 levels. Annual production is 4000 cases.

First, Gutsweine – entry level wines.

Second, Gesteinsweine – this is the second quality level where grapes are sorted according to the soil type of the vineyard: Schieferboden, Vulkangestein, Kieselstein - Slate floor, volcanic rock, pebble.

Picture: Gesteinsweine

Third, Traditionsweine – going back to the old days; this group includes a Silvaner Trocken, Gemengelage Trocken, which is a field blend and Glasperlenspiel, which is the lightly sparkling apple wine that Matthias Adams presented at 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit.

Fourth, Edelsuesse Spitzen – noble-sweet top wines, including a Trockenbeerenauslese

Fifth, grand-cru Lagen Rieslings – ultra-premium dry wines from the top vineyards, including from the Niederhäuser Herrmannshöhle, which is considered to be one of the best Riesling vineyards in Germany.

In addition, sixth, Weingut von Racknitz also makes Sekt (extra brut).

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Pictures: Handkaes' Producer Manfred Seuss, Kaesehaus im Hessenpark, at the 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

See:
2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

Handkaese is a German regional sour milk cheese. It is a culinary speciality of the Frankfurt am Main region. It gets its name from the traditional way of producing it: forming it with one's own hands. It is a small, translucent, yellow cheese with a pungent aroma that many people find unpleasant. It is sometimes square, but more often round in shape.

Handkaes’ mit Musik is served in a dressing of vinegar and oil, topped with chopped onions and caraway seeds, plus bread and butter. The “Musik” refers to the "gas" that raw onions usually generate.

Picture: Handkaes' mit Musikat Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

See:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

While Apfelwein is traditionally served with Handkäs’ mit Musik, dry white wine is preferred in the wine drinking areas, i.e. Rheinhessen and Rheingau.

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The Premium Apple Wines of Andreas Schneider - Obsthof am Steinberg - in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Apple Wine Tavern Zur Buchscheer in Frankfurt am Main, Germany – The Traditional Way: Apple Wine Made on the Premises

Apple Wine in Frankfurt am Main, Germany and Cider in the World

Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

In an Apple Wine (Cider) Mecca: The Apple Wine Bistrorant Landsteiner Muehle of Apple Wine Sommelier Michael Stoeckl near Frankfurt am Main, Germany

An Apple Wine Tavern as Traditional as can be in Frankfurt am Main: “Zu den 3 Steubern” of Wolfgang Wagner, Germany

Mainlust “Desche Otto”– an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany 

2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany

Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany 

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Kai Wagner in Bad Homburg, Germany

The Collegium Vini is an association of wine lovers in the greater Frankfurt area, founded in 1951, that meets regularly to taste wine together. This time, the Collegium Vini invited wine book author Kai Wagner to lead a wine tasting and to talk about his concept of slow wine and his book „Die Avantgarde der deutschen Winzer - Slow Wine und seine Erzeuger im Porträt“ (The Avantgarde of German Winemakers – Slow Wine and its Producers) ((Oekom-Verlag, München 2013). Co-author Ulrich Steeger was also present.

Slow Wine

The Slow Wine Movement grew out of the Slow Food Movement. The latter was a reaction to the fast food wave – industrialized, standardized, inexpensive food – that swept over the world during the economic upswing and globalization of the post-war area in the second half of the 1900s.

The German Slow Wine Movement is in its early stages and still in the process of defining itself. It is quite tricky. Slow wine making has to find its place within a number of other, competing concepts that all pursue similar aims: organic winemaking, biodynamic winemaking, sustainable winemaking, zero carbon footprint winemaking, zero water footprint winemaking, natural winemaking, to name the most important ones.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Slow Wine Producer Matthias Adams, Weingut von Racknitz, at 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit, see: 2014 Apfelwein Weltweit - Apple Wine World Wide - in Frankfurt, Germany: Schiller’s Favorites

Organic and Similar Concepts of Winemaking

A couple of years ago at Weingut Meinklang in Pamhagen in Austria in the stone cave below the winery with winemaker Werner Michlits, where Werner showed us his magic cow poop and other ingredients for biodynamic farming, I felt at the forefront of wine making with an ecological mindset. There are many others on this route. But these “green” winemakers come in different colors. I just tasted the Santa Julia wines of Familia Zuccardi, who produce mass wines in Argentina with organic grapes. Argentina, in general, is very well suited for organic wine making. “We practice sustainable agriculture in the vineyard” said Yann-Leon Beyer when I visited Domaine Leon Beyer in Alsace in France. The Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley produces wine according to the natural wine concept in the midst of the city of Berkeley, without owning any vineyards. Researchers have found out that from a point of view of minimizing the carbon footprint, New Yorkers should drink European wine instead of domestic wine from California. The following tries to shed some light on the different concepts of “green” wine making.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Slow Wine Producer Dr. Manfred Pruem, Weingut J.J. Pruem, in Germany. See more on Weingut J.J. Pruem: JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

Organic (Bio in German) generally means the use of natural as opposed to chemical fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. The key is: no chemicals. Organic wines are changing the look of vineyards, literally. Whereas vineyards of the past commanded neat rows rid of all insects, rodents and weeds, organic vineyards are now replacing costly and damaging chemical sprays with environmental partnerships. Pesticides are giving way to introducing low-growing plants between vine rows that host beneficial insects that keep the pest insects in check.

Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that both take place without chemicals, but biodynamic farming incorporates ideas about a vineyard as an ecosystem, and also accounting for things such as astrological influences and lunar cycles. Biodynamic is an approach following the rules and ideas of Austrian philosopher-scientist Rudolph Steiner.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Slow Wine Producer Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, in Seattle, USA. See: The German Winemakers at the Forthcoming 4. Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

Sustainable farming means farming in a way that will allow for continued farming throughout the ages. In its broadest interpretation, sustainability refers to a range of practices that are not only ecologically sound, but also economically viable and socially responsible. Although nowhere defined by law, there are many certifications available for “Sustainable Wine.”

Natural: The idea behind natural wine is non-intervention and a respect for Mother Nature. Natural wines are hands-off wines produced with as little intervention as possible. Generally, the concept of natural wine relates more to what happens in the wine cellar rather than what happens in the vineyard. Again, nowhere is the term defined by law; it is left open to interpretation. Typically, only natural yeasts are used, the fermentation is slow, there is little or no use of new oak barrels; and there are no filtrations or cold stabilization.

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Slow Wine Producers Lotte Pfeffer-Müller and Hans Müller, Owners of Weingut Brueder Dr. Becker. See also: Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

Carbon Footprint: The carbon neutral label comes from a different angle: global warming. All economic activities have a carbon footprint, including wine making. Carbon neutral wineries are trying to make a contribution to the general efforts of reducing the emission of carbon dioxide. Belgrave Park Winery in Australia, for example, is a completely carbon neutral vineyard and winery.

Water Footprint: A new thing is water footprint, reflecting the concern that the planet is moving into a period where water becomes more and more scarce.

For a primer for "green" wines see: Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines… A Primer for “Green” Wines

The German Slow Wine Concept

The German Slow Wine Concept is still in the process of defining itself. About a year ago, Ulrich Steger released a draft memorandum which is quite helpful in terms of understanding what he and Kai Wagner have in mind. He named 3 criteria that were critical in distinguishing slow wine from other wine, in particular industrial, mass wine:

Pictures: Kai Wagner and Ulrich Steeger, and their book: "Die Avantgarde der deutschen Winzer - Slow Wine und seine Erzeuger im Porträt“ (The Avantgarde of German Winemakers – Slow Wine and its Producers) ((Oekom-Verlag, München 2013).

First, a slow wine has a regional and cultural identity. A Riesling slow wine from the Rheingau region should taste differently than a Riesling from the Pfalz region; a 2010 slow wine should taste differently than a 2011 vintage. A slow wine producer grows those grape varieties that have proven to fit the soil type and the climatic conditions in the region.

Second, slow wine producers are artisanal wine makers. This starts in the vineyard with, for example, harvesting by hand, and continues in the wine cellar, with, for example, a preference for spontaneous fermenting.

Third, a slow wine producer is a winemaker with an ecological mindset. A slow wine producer will typically follow one of the above mentioned concepts of “green” winemaking.

The German Avantgarde of Slow Wine Producers

If you know the German wine scene, the list of slow wine producers included in their book is also helpful to understand what Kai Wagner and Ulrich Steeger have in mind, when they talk about slow wine. They grouped the selected winemakers under several headings.

Die Bio-Pioniere (The Organic Pioneers)

Weingut Brüder Dr. Becker, Ludwigshöhe • Rheinhessen
Weingut Hahnmühle, Mannweiler-Cölln • Nahe
Weingut Thorsten Melsheimer , Reil • Mosel
Weingut Pix, Ihringen • Baden
Weingut Roth, Wiesenbronn • Franken
Weingut Arndt F. Werner, Ingelheim • Rheinhessen
Weingut Wittmann, Westhofen • Rheinhessen
Weingut Zähringer, Heitersheim • Baden

Die Mentoren der Bewegung (The Mentors of the Movement)

Weingut A. Christmann, Neustadt-Gimmeldingen • Pfalz
Weingut Rudolf Fürst, Bürgstadt • Franken
Weingut Dr. Randolf Kauer, Bacharach • Mittelrhein
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, Bernkastel-Wehlen • Mosel
Sekthaus Raumland, Flörsheim-Dalsheim • Rheinhessen
Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz, Siebeldingen • Pfalz

Mehr Slow als Öko (More Slow than Bio)

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf, Frickenhausen, • Franken
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter, Oestrich-Winkel • Rheingau
Weingut Danner, Durbach • Baden
Weingut Hofmann, Röttingen • Franken
Weingut Kistenmacher-Hengerer, Heilbronn • Württemberg
Weingut Klosterhof Töplitz, Werder (Havel) • Saale-Unstrut
Weingut Martin Müllen, Traben-Trarbach • Mosel
Weingut Schlör, Wertheim-Reicholzheim • Baden

Auf dem Weg nach ganz oben (On the Way to the Very Top)

Weingut Theo Minges, Flemlingen • Pfalz
Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann, Fellbach • Württemberg
Weingut Seeger, Leimen • Baden
Weingut St. Antony, Nierstein • Rheinhessen
Weingut Jean Stodden, Rech • Ahr
Weingut Vols, Ayl/Saar • Mosel
Weingut Wagner-Stempel, Siefersheim, • Rheinhessen
Weingut Klaus Zimmerling, Dresden-Pillnitz • Sachsen

Die Unorthodoxen heute (The Non-orthodox Winemakers Today)

Weingut J.B. Becker, Walluf • Rheingau
Weingut Gysler, Alzey-Weinheim • Rheinhessen
Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein, Winningen • Mosel
Ökologischer Weinbau Krämer, Auernhofen • Franken
Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Oestrich • Rheingau
Weingut Jürgen Leiner, Ilbesheim • Pfalz
Weingut Zehnthof Luckert, Sulzfeld • Franken

Die Quereinsteiger (The Career Changers)

Weingut von Racknitz, Odernheim • Nahe
Weingut Reverchon, Konz-Filzen • Mosel
Weingut Dr. Siemens, Serrig • Mosel
Weingut Van Volxem, Wiltingen • Mosel

Über wen sprechen wir in fünf Jahren? (Who will we talk about in 5 Years?)

Weingut Knauß, Weinstadt • Württemberg
Weingut Philipps-Mühle, St. Goar • Mittelrhein
Weingut Schmidt am Bodensee, Wasserburg • Württemberg
Weingut Sohns, Geisenheim • Rheingau
Weingut Zum Eulenturm, Briedel • Mosel

The Slow Wines Poured at the Tasting

Another interesting list is the one of the wines poured at the Collegium Vini event. Overall, these were all fascinating, outstanding wines. For many wines, however, participants had questions as to what made them slow wines.

Picture: At the Collegium Vini Tasting

To Accompany the Food:

Weingut von Racknitz Riesling Rotenfels 2011 Vol. 12,5 % 22 €

One of the winemaker from the career changer list. Co-owner Matthias Adams - who takes the lead in the cellar, while his wife is taking the lead in the vineyard - used to be a business execituve, before becoming a winemaker.

Tasting:

Weingut Wagner-Stempel Silvaner Siefersheimer 2012 Vol. 12,5 % 23,90 €

Weingut Luckert-Zehnthof Silvaner Creutz 2012 Vol. 13,5 % 49,00 €

Made from 80 years old vines.

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf Silvaner Barfuß 2012 Vol. 13 % 14,50 €

Kai Wagner: These three producers belong – with Paul Weltner – to the leading Silvaner producer quartet in Germany.

Weingut Knipser Gelber Orleans 2005 Vol. 13 % 24 €

Gelber Orléans is a vitis vinifera grape variety which up until the 19th century was much grown in Germany, but has almost disappeared since then. It has large berries with thick skins and a high yield. In the 1990s, Gelber Orléans returned to Rheingau when the historically interested Bernhard Breuer of Weingut Georg Breuer planted a small vineyard with 500 vines. A few years later, Weingut Knipser followed with experimental plantings of the Gelber Orléans.

Weingut Heußler Grauburgunder Rosswingert 2009 Vol. 14 % 12 €

Weingut Ziereisen Chardonnay Hard 2008 Vol. 12 % 18 €

Weingut Leiner Chardonnay Hadorne Reserve 2008 Vol. 14,5 % 24 €

Chardonnay is not a typical German grape variety - Why was the wine included in the tasting, several participants asked.

Weingut Knipser Riesling Halbstück Reserve 2004 Vol. 12 % 26 €

Weingut Van Volxem Riesling Gottesfuß GG 2007 Vol. 12 % 32 €

Weingut Wittmann Riesling Morstein GG 2011 Vol. 13,5 % 39 €

Weingut Wittmann Riesling Brunnenhäuschen GG 2011 Vol. 13,5 % 39 €

The purpose of the 2 Wittmann wines was to highlight the critical role that the terroir should play in a slow wine – two wines were everything was the same, including what Philip Wittmann did in the cellar, according to Kai Wagner.

Weingut Ziereisen Syrah Gestad 2008 Vol. 13 % 22 €

Again hotly discussed - Why Syrah in Germany? Kai Wagner referred to the climate change.

Weingut Schnaitmann Spätburgunder Lämmler GG 2009 Vol. 13 % 42€

Weingut Schlör Schwarzriesling R 2009 Vol. 14 % 19 €

Weingut Knipser Cuvée X 2006 Vol. 14 % 37,50 €

A classic Medoc cuvée (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot). 18 to 20 months in mostly new barrique barrels.

Weingut Rings Cuvée Kreuz 2008 Vol. 14,5 % 26 €

This is the flagship wine of the Rings brothers – a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and St. Laurent, fermented and aged in barrique.

Weingut von Schubert Riesling Herrenberg Kabinett 1995 Vol. 8 % 12 €

Weingut Müllen Riesling Hühnerberg Spätlese 2004 Vol. 7,5 % 18,90 €

Weingut Weiser-Künstler Riesling Ellergrub Spätlese 2009 Vol. 7,5 % 16 €

Weingut Eulenturm Riesling Trieren Auslese 2011 Vol. 8 % 10 €

As for the last 4 wines, I would argue that a fruity-sweet wine, made by (brutally) interrupting the natural fermentation process, does not qualify as slow wine. But of course, these are wines very famous and sought after in the whole world.

German Slow Wine Producers on schiller-wine

I have written about some of the German slow wine producerson schiller-wine, see:

Excellency and Ecology: The Wines of Gebrueder Dr. Becker in Rheinhessen, Germany

The Millesime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines at the one of a Kind Wine Trade Show

The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

The (Grape) Wines and the Apple Wine of Weingut von Racknitz, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Organic, Sustainable, Biodynamic, Natural Wines… A Primer for “Green” Wines

The Natural Wines of the Donkey and Goat Winery in Berkeley, California

Visiting Jared Brandt and his Donkey & Goat Winery– Natural Wines Made in Berkeley, California

Wine Event: President Obama and the First Lady eat at the "Green"Restaurant Nora and have a "Green" Spottswoode Wine

Benzinger Wines Served at the 2010 "Green" Annual White House Correspondents Dinner

The Natural Wines of Terroir in San Francisco

Skype and Biodynamic Winemaking - Winetasting in the US with Winemaker Werner Michlits, Weingut Meinklang, in Austria

At the Forefront of Biodynamic Winemaking: Visiting Werner and Angela Michlits and their Weingut Meinklang in Austria

Julia Zuccardi from Familia Zuccardi in Argentina Visited the US to Introduce New Santa Julia Wines

One of Oregon's Pioneering Winemakers - Myron Redford - with his Amity Vineyard Wines in Washington DC

Visiting Yann-Leon Beyer at Maison Leon Beyer in Eguisheim in Alsace

Italian Natural Wines

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Martin Tesch in Wiesbaden, Germany at a VDP Tasting in September 2013

The VDP – Verband der Praedikatsweingueter – is the prestigious association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany. The VDP is in the process of implementing a new wine classification that is radically different from the traditional German wine classification. Not only the VDP producers are adjusting to the new classification approach, there are many other wine producers in Germany who are adopting the VDP approach, many of those aspiring to be also ultimately accepted in the noble VDP Club. While there is a large group of ambitious German winemaker who want to join the VDP, rarely a member voluntarily leaves the VDP. Now, one of the stars of German winemaking – Martin Tesch, Weingut Tesch in the Nahe Valley - decided to quit the prestigious association. The official press release of the VDP only said that the objectives of the VDP and those of Weingut Tesch have diverted too much over time so that it is better for both sides to call it quit. One can only speculate, what the reasons are, but perhaps Martin Tesch did not want to go along with the new VDP classification that he found for his special circumstances too constraining.

Here is what others had to say: Stephan Reinhardt, Der Feinschmecker: Looking back into history: Dr. Martin Tesch from Nahe Weingut Tesch has left the VDP as he told us in a tasting last Sunday night at his winery in Langenlonsheim.

For more than 10 years Martin is doing his own thing: Liter wines, Riesling Unplugged, five single vyd Rieslings; all of them trocken, straight, screwed, very good if not excellent and reasonably priced. However, none of them is designated as Grosses Gewächs. Martin keeps things short and simple rather than complicated. He has done the right step. Good luck, Martin Tesch!

Thorsten Kogge, Wine Blogger: If you have a clear vision and a reputation for quality production, you can do without any kind of umbrella organization. I also find his step noteworthy and wish him all the best for the future. Plans sound interesting.

The VDP

The VDP is the oldest association of wine estates in the world. In fact, it is the only one of its kind worldwide. No other country has a national organization of the top wine makers of the entire country.

In 1910, four regional wine-growers’ associations joined forces to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (i.e. estates that sold their “natural” [unchaptalized] wines at auction). These organizations – from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen, founded in 1897 and 1900, respectively, and their counterparts in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Pfalz regions, both founded in 1908 – were the forerunners of today’s VDP. At this time, fine German wines enjoyed a heyday. They were among the most expensive wines, on the tables of imperial houses as well as leading hotels and restaurants.

Throughout the past century, the quality-driven goals and strict standards of the VDP have played no small part in shaping the viticultural and winemaking practices in Germany. With their stringent statutes and their establishment of a German vineyard classification, the about 200 members of the VDP have served as role models and justifiably can be viewed as the vanguard of the nation’s producers of top-quality wines.

See:
Germany's VDP Wine Estates Celebrate 100th Anniversary in Berlin

The New VDP Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. There are four approaches to classifying wine in Germany. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the powerful group of German elite winemakers, the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten), which has conceived its own classification system. Other winemakers moved to a zero classification system – no classification, an approach very familiar in the New World. Finally, there is a fourth group of winemakers that have designed their own classification system.

See also:
New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA 
QbA, Kabinett, Spaetlese….No, there is not just 1, but there are 4 Different Wine Classification Systems in Germany

The VDP Classification

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

See:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany  

Picture: VDP President and Winemaker Steffen Christmann, Weingut A. Christmann, Wine Journalist Stuart Pigott, and VDP Vice-President and Winemaker Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, Presenting the new VDP Classification at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle

Martin Tesch and Weingut Tesch

Dr. Martin Tesch owns and runs Weingut Tesch in the Nahe Valley. The Weingut has been family-owned and run since 1723.

In his mid-thirties, Martin Tesch is a Ph.D. microbiologist by training. He took over Weingut Tesch in 1996 and has presided over fundamental changes both in the vineyard and the wine cellar as well as in the marketing of the Tesch wines.


Picture: Martin Tesch in Mainz at a VDP Presentation

When Martin Tesch stepped in, the vineyards totaled over 30 hectares and the wine portfolio was pretty mainstream, with a multitude of grape varieties, of quality levels according to the German wine law and of styles in terms of sweetness of the wine.

Martin changed this radically.

First, he cut back on the overall output of the winery. All the north-facing vineyard slopes were abandoned as they naturally produced poorer grapes. These slopes have now reverted to nature and helped create habitat and biodiversity.

Next, he concentrated on Riesling and Pinot Noir, the king and the queen of German grape varieties. All other grapes were grubbed up. Today the vineyard area totals 20 hectares of which 17 is Riesling and the remainder Pinot Noir.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Martin Tesch in New York City

Starting in 2001, Martin stopped producing sweet-style wines. All Tesch wines are now bone-dry, except, it seems, for the occasional Eiswein when conditions allow.

Further, he has moved to natural and non-interventionist winemaking and strict yield control of between 20-30 hl/ha. The harvest is manual and he picks the grapes at full ripeness, but avoids botrytis.

Also, he changed and simplified the label design. There are no long words anymore on the label. Each wine is color-coded and has individual artwork to distinguish it.

Finally, Martin Tesch now uses the Stelvin glass closure. It is an ultra-modern and expensive technical fitting; Martin Tesch and an increasing number of his colleagues are very upbeat about it.

Riesling Unplugged

Martin’s signature wine is “Riesling Unplugged”. "Unplugged" by Eric Clapton has always been one of my favorite albums. Clapton recorded the album for the MTV unplugged series. This was a series of CDs recorded live with as much authenticity as possible. Martin Tesch's "Riesling Unplugged" is - like Eric Clapton’s “unplugged” music and the music of the other unplugged CD series artists - a natural wine, with minimal intervention, just as Mother Nature nature intended it.

See:
In the Glass: Unplugged - Eric Clapton and Martin Tesch

Riesling Weißes Rauschen

In a joint venture with the Die Toten Hosen, Martin Tesch produced the wine "Weisses Rauschen". Of course, Martin is in the lead, but Martin told me that the band played an active role in the selection of wine, the name of the wine and the design of the bottle. The wine was named after a song of Die Toten Hosen from the album Zurueck zum Glueck (Back to Happiness).

Die Toten Hosen is the leading German punk band. The members of Die Toten Hosen are Campino (Andreas Frege), Kuddel (Andreas von Holst), Vom (Stephen 'Vom' Ritchie), Andi (Andreas Meurer) and Breiti (Michael Breitkopf).

The band has existed for over 20 years. The debut single "Wir sind bereit" (we are ready) was released in 1982. Their 1000th concert was on 28 June 1997, in the Düsseldorfer Rheinstadium, and was attended by more than 60,000 fans.

See:
In the Glass: 2009 Weisses Rauschen– A Joint Venture of Winemaker Martin Tesch and Punk-Rock Band Die Toten Hosen

Picture: Gesine Roll, Weingut Weedenbornhof, Kai Schaetzel, Weingut Schaetzel and Philipp Wittmann, VDP President Rheinhessen and Weingut Wittmann in Mainz

What is an Ortswein? Many wine consumers do not know the answer, even wine consumers living in Germany.

Ortswein is a term of the new German wine classification of the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten), the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany. In the new VDP wine classification, Ortswein is the middle level wine in terms of quality, above a Gutswein and below a Lagenwein (Erste Lage und Grosse Lage).

The VDP Rheinhessen organized an Ortswein Tasting of the 2013 vintage in Mainz recently. All VDP producers from Rheinhessen were there plus an even larger number of Non-VDP producers from Rheinhessen “that are in the second row” and aspire to be accepted to this prestigious club at some point.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Stefan Maas and Yutaka Kitajima, Japan, in Mainz

Ortswein and the VDP Classification

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. There are four approaches to classifying wine in Germany. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the powerful group of German elite winemakers, the VDP, which has conceived its own classification system. Other winemakers moved to a zero classification system – no classification, an approach very familiar in the New World. Finally, there is a fourth group of winemakers that have designed their own classification system.

See also:
New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Philadelphia, USA 
QbA, Kabinett, Spaetlese….No, there is not just 1, but there are 4 Different Wine Classification Systems in Germany

The VDP Classification

In sharp contrast with the standard classification system, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (which dominates the standard German wine classification of 1971) has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Instead, following Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage. And here, the VDP has moved from a 3 tiers quality ladder to a 4 tiers quality ladder in its recent modifications, effective with the 2012 harvest. The VDP has added an additional layer to its classification system, which consists now of the following 4 layers. (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)

Note that for some legal reasons, the VDP has started to use the terms Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, Ortswein and Gutswein with the pre-fix VDP.

See:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

VDP.Ortswein - Sourced from Superior Soils

VDP: A VDP.Ortswein originates from a village's best vineyards that are planted with grape varieties typical of their region, equivalent to a village wine in the Bourgogne. Maximum yield is at 75hl/ha. A dry VDP.Ortswein is labeled Qualitätswein Trocken. A VDP.Ortswein with residual sweetness is labeled with one of the traditional Prädikats.

Interestingly, at the tasting, practically all Ortswein wines poured were trocken.

For the consumer, to recognize an Ortswein, is not difficult. An Ortswein shows the name of the winery and the name of the village – no vineyard name. A Gutswein only shows the name of the winery on the label, nothing else and a Lagenwein shows the name of the winery and the name of the vineyard.

VDP Classification in Rheinhessen

Diverting from the national approach, the VDP members in Rheinhessen decided to stay with a 3-tier system: Gutswein, Ortswein, Grosse Lage – No Erste Lage.

Picture: Rheinhessen VDP Classification

Rheinhessen

Rheinhessen is the largest viticultural region in Germany. Every fourth bottle of German wine comes from Rheinhessen. About one third of Rheinhessen’s agricultural area is cultivated with vines, more than 26000 hectares. The high-yielder Mueller-Thurgau accounts for about 1/5 of the vineyards, and Silvaner and Dornfelder both for 1/10. Overall, Riesling is on the backburner. Unlike in other German wine regions, where monoculture of the vine is the norm, here the many rolling hills are host to a wide variety of crops grown alongside the grape. Rheinhessen also has the rather dubious honor of being considered the birthplace of Liebfraumilch.

At the same time, Rheinhessen is at this time among Germany’s most interesting wine regions. A lot is happening there. There is an amazing group of young, ambitious and dynamic winemakers, led by star winemakers like Klaus Peter Keller, Philip Wittmann and H.O. Spanier, who want to produce and indeed do produce outstanding wine and not wines in large quantities. Philip Wittmann and H.O. Spanier were at the Ortsein presentation, but also many others, not yet as famous as the two of them, including Kai Schaetzel, Jochen Dreissigacker, Johannes Thoerle, Katharina Wechsler, to name just a few of them.

Schiller’s Favorite Ortswein Wines

Here is a listing of all wine producers who presented their Ortswein wines. For my favorite winemakers, I have also included the wines they presented at the Ortswein tasting.

Battenfeld-Spanier and Kuehling Gillot (VDP)

2013 Hohen-Suelzen Sylvaner trocken
2013 Hohen-Suelzen Weisburgunder trocken
2013 Hohen-Suelzen Riesling trocken
2013 Moelsheim Riesling trocken
2013 Nackenheim trocken
2013 Nierstein trocken

Picture: Caroline Gillot-Spanier

Becker Landgraf
Beck –Hedesheimer Hof
J. Bettenheimer
Bischel
Braunewell
Bruder Dr. Becker (VDP)

Dreissigacker

2013 Bechtheimer Silvaner trocken
2013 Bechtheimer Riesling trocken

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Jochen Dreissigacker

Espenhof
Winzerfamilie Flick
Oeknomierat Johann Geil I. Erben

K.F. Groebe (VDP)

2013 Westhofener Grauburgunder trocken
2013 Westhofener Riesling trocken
2013 Westhofener Riesling Alte Reben

Picture: Friedrich Groebe

Gunderloch (VDP)

2013 Nackenheimer Silvaner trocken
2013 Niersteiner Riesling trocken
2013 Nackenheimer Riesling trocken

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Johannes Hasselbach

Gutzler (VDP)
Hofmann

Keller (VDP)

2013 Westhofen Riesling trocken

Knewitz

2013 Appenheimer Silvaner trocken
2013 Appenheimer Weissburgunder trocken
2013 Appenheimer Riesling trocken
2012 Ingelheimer Spaetburgunder trocken

Picture: Tobias Knewitz and Guy Bonnefoit

Dr. Koehler
Landgraf

Kruger-Rumpf (VDP)

2013 Binger Riesling trocken

J. Neus
Peth-Wetz
Pfannebecker
Rappenhof (VDP)
Riffel
Sander

Schaetzel

2013 Niersteiner Silvaner trocken
2013 Nackenheimer Silvaner trocken
2013 Niersteiner Riesling trocken ReinSchiefer

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Kai Schaetzel

Schloss Westerhaus (VDP)
Seehof
Spiess
Steitz

St. Antony (VDP)

2013 Niersteiner Riesling trocken
2012 Niersteiner Pinot Noir trocken

Picture: Felix Peters

Weinbaudomaene Oppenheim (VDP)

Thoerle

2013 Saulheim Silvaner trocken
2013 Saulheim Weisburgunder trocken
2013 Saulheim Riesling trocken
2012 Saulheim Spaetburgunder trocken

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Johannes Thoerle

Wagner-Stempel (VDP)

2012 Siefersheimer Silvaner trocken
2013 Siefersheimer Weissburgunder trocken
2013 Siefersheimer Riesling trocken vom Porhyr
2012 Siefersheimer Spaetburgunder trocken

Wechsler

2013 Westhofener Sylvaner trocken
2013 Westhofener Riesling trocken

Pictures: Katharina Wechsler

Weedenborn

2013 Westhofen Weisburgunder trocken Vom Kalkmergel
2013 Westhofen Riesling trocken
2012 Bechtheimer Spaetburgunder trocken

Weinreich
Winter (VDP)

Wittmann (VDP)

2013 Westhofener Riesling trocken
2012 Westhofener Spaetburgunder trocken

Picture: Philipp Wittmann

Drinks after the Tasting at Weinhaus Bluhm

Kai Schaetzel, Katharina Wechsler, Ralf Kaiser, Justin Christoph and others went over to Roland Ladendorf's Weinhaus Bluhm after the tasting for dinner and more wine.

Picture: Ralf Kaiser, Kai Schaetzel, Katharina Wechsler, Justin Christoph (New York City) and Christian G.E. Schiller, see: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Postings on schiller-wine

Here is a list of postings about those winemakers that participated and that I have written about.

Battenfeld-Spanier and Kuehling Gillot (VDP)
Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Dreissigacker
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany

Gunderloch (VDP)
Special Wine Event on March 18, 2014, in Washington DC with "Wurzelwerk": 3 Terroirs, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
Weingut Gunderloch– The New Generation: Owner Johannes Hasselbach in Washington DC, US 
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, German
Riesling Lounge Goes Lomo, Germany

Kruger-Rumpf (VDP)
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany
Winemaker Dinner with Georg and Stefan Rumpf and with Cornelia Rumpf at Weingut Kruger- Rumpf in the Nahe Valley, Germany 
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Schaetzel
Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
Riesling Lounge Goes Lomo, Germany

Thoerle
Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany
The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen

Picture: #1 -Noma in Copenhagen (Source: Noma Facebook Page)

The new World's 50 Best Restaurants list, sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, was released a few weeks ago.

For previous years, see:
The 2010 World's Best Restaurants
The World's 50 Best Restaurants (2013) and the World's 10 Best Cities to Eat Well (2009)

The Top 10

Chef Rene Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen regained the top spot, after losing it to El Celler De Can Roca last year. The two Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen was toppled in 2013 after three consecutive years at the top by El Celler de Can Roca, a Spanish family restaurant, but has now had its title restored.

Noma opened in 2004. The 45-seat restaurant features Nordic cuisine based on ingredients foraged from the nearby forests and shores in Denmark. Guests dine on 20 small plates of food that look more like art. The tasting menu costs $296 a head and the wine pairing is an additional $185, reports businessinsider.com.

El Celler de Can Roca, long been hailed for its combination of Catalan dishes and cutting edge techniques, moved back to #2. The restaurant is helmed by three brothers: the oldest on, Joan Roca, mans the kitchen; Josep is sommelier; and the youngest one, Jordi is the pastry chef.

Massimo Bottura's comparatively low-key Osteria Francescana in Modena, Northern Italy, retained third place, followed by Eleven Madison Park (with Swiss-born chef Daniel Humm) in New York City. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London rose to fifth place from seventh. Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain fell to sixth from fourth, followed by D.O.M. in Sao Paulo, Arzak in San Sebastian, Alinea in Chicago and at 10th place the Ledbury in London.

The Best Restaurant Award has been dominated by El Celler de Can Roca, El Bulli and Noma in the past years. In 2002 and 2006–2009, El Bulli was the world's best restaurant, winning more times than any other restaurant. In 2013 El Celler de Can Roca won. In 2010 to 2012 and Noma was #1 and is again in 2014

Best Restaurants by Country (2014)

• Spain (7)
• United States (6)
• France (6)
• Italy (3)
• United Kingdom (3)
• Germany (2)
• Asia (7)

Notwithstanding the economic crisis, Spain has the largest number of top restaurants. 3 Spanish restaurants are in the top 10.

Seven US restaurants made the cut: Coi in San Francisco at #49 (this is its first time on the list), the French Laundry in Yountville at #44; Daniel in NYC (the flagship restaurant of French Chef Daniel Boulud) at #40, Per Se in NYC at #30, Le Bernardin in NYC at #21 (Chef Eric Ripert specializes in fish), Alinea in Chicago at #9 and Eleven Madison Park in NYC at #4.

Further down on the No. 51-100 list includes: Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Westchester, N.Y. #54), Manresa (Los Gatos, Calif. #62), The NoMad (New York #68), Saison (San Francisco #69), Momofuku Ko (New York #70), The Restaurant at Meadowood (St. Helena, Calif. #80), Marea (New York #93) and Jean Georges (New York #98).

France’s restaurants lost ground except for L’Aperge, which was flat at #16 (and has become the #1 French restaurant), and Septime, which was newly added at #49. Other French restaurants on the list are: Le Chateaubriand #18 (Paris, France), L'Astrance #23 (Paris, France), L'Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon #24 (Paris, France) and Mirazur #28 (Menton, France), the only French restaurant not in Paris.

Italy has 3 restaurants on the list with Osteria Francescana remaining at #3 for the second year running.

UK – 3 entries. Heston Blumenthal's Dinner restaurant climbed two places to occupy the #5 and another London restaurant, The Ledbury, climbed three places to #10.

Germany continues to have 2 restaurants on the list: Vendôme #12 (Bergisch Gladbach) and Aqua #28 (Wolfsburg).

Just 7 restaurants from Asia made it into the rankings. They include Nahm in Bangkok, Thailand, at #13 – best restaurants in Asia. The highest debut entry was Gaggan from Bangkok, which came in at #17.

The highest-ranked restaurant outside of the US and Europe was Sao Paulo's DOM, although it dropped one spot to #7. Another Brazilian Chef, Helena Rizzo, saw her Mani restaurant rise ten places to #36 while the highest climber award was picked up by Central in Lima, which made it to #15 after climbing 35 places.

The group of countries without any top restaurant include Russia, India, Turkey and Canada.

The list was drawn from the votes of more than 900 leading figures in the industry - including food critics, chefs, restaurateurs and highly regarded "gastronomes". The World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards is sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.

The List

Picture: Two German Wine Giants: Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Weil, and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel, at the 2014 Weinboerse in Mainz, Germany

The VDP.Weinboerse is an annual 2-day event in Mainz, Germany. It is the first comprehensive presentation by the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers, of the white wines of the new vintage, for trade, restaurants and press only. This year about 175 VDP producers were on hand to present more than 1500 wines. Some 3200 professionals from all over the world attended.

Pictures: 2014 Weinboerse  in Mainz (Photo below: Markus Budai)

The VDP Producers of the 2014 ombiasy Tour Germany North

With the 2 German wine tours coming up later in the year, I focused on those winemakers that we will visit in September 2014. In this posting, I confine myself to the winemakers of the ombiasy Tour Germany North.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and the team of Weinhaus Bluhm, Mainz, where we will also have a tasting, see: see: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North)

From September 04 – September 13, 2014, we will explore six (Saale-Unstrut, Franken, Rheingau, northern Rheinhessen, Mosel, Nahe) German wine regions with visits to 19 top wineries and cultural gems. We will get intimate insights into a selection of Germany’s best of the best wineries, normally closed to visitors. A cruise on the romantic Rhine River with its castle- and vine-ribboned banks, the Mosel valley with its dizzying steep vineyards, delving into 2000 years of history, and tasting first class wines under the guidance of great winemakers will be among the highlights. Special treats include wine pairing lunches and dinners with the owners and winemakers at prominent estates.

See here for more on the tour:
Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North)

The tour follows the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, with the Franken region added, the Mosel Valley portion extended and the Pfalz region deleted (and included in the Sun-kissed German South Tour) and includes the following wineries:

Weingut Pawis

Although a VDP member, Weingut Pawis did not show its wines at the 2014 Weinboerse.

Weingut Gussek

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Kloster Pforta

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Juliusspital

Weingut Juliusspital showed 11 wines. My favorites were:

2013 Iphoefer Kronsberg, Silvaner trocken, VDP.Erste Lage
2012 Stein Wuerzburg, Silvaner GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2012 Wuerzburger Pfaffenberg, Spaetburgunder trocken, Fassprobe, VDP.Erste Lage

Picture: Weingut Juliusspital

Weingut Bickel-Stumpf

Weingut Bickel-Stumpg showed 6 wines. When I tasted them, co-owner Melanie Stumpf, who will host us in September, poured the wines. My favorites were:

2013 TWENTYSIX, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Frickenhaeuser Kappellenberg, Fraenkischer Gemischter Satz trocken, VDP.Erste Lage
2013 Frickenhaeuser Kappellenberg, Silvaner trocken, VDP.Erste Lage

Picture: Melanie Stumpf (Expecting!)

Weingut Robert Weil

Weingut Robert Weil, one of the leading Riesling producers in the world, showed an impressive line-up of 12 wines, ranging from a 2013 Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein, to a 2013 Graefenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, VDP.Grosse Lage. Wilhelm Weil himself poured the wines, assisted by his team.

Pictures: Weingut Robert Weil

Weingut Kloster Eberbach

The Hessischen Staatsweingueter Kloster Eberbach schowed 15 wines, ranging from a 2011 Assmannshaeuser Hoellenberg Spaetburgunder trocken to a 2012 Berg Schlossberg Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage.

Weingut Thoerle

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot 

Weingut Kuehling-Gillot showed 8 wines. The winemaker couple H.O. Spanier and Caroline Spanier-Gillot poured the wines together, for their two estates Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier. In September, we will be hosted by senior boss Roland Gillot. My favorites were:

2013 Gemischter Satz, Gewuerztraminer and Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Qvinterra, Scheurebe trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Rothenberg, Riesling Auslese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: H.O.Spanier and Frank Schubert

Weingut Kuenstler

Weingut Kuenstler showed 13 wines. Gunter Kuenstler poured the wines, assisted by his team, including Gregor Breuer, who will host us in September. My favorites were:

2012 Kichenstueck Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2011 Reichestal Spaetburgunder GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Riesling trocken, VDP.Ortswein

Pictures: Gunter Kuenstler and Gregor Breuer

Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn

Weingut Peter Jakob Kuehn showed 10 wines. Peter Jakob Kuehn wines are Demeter-certified. Peter Jakob, Angela (who will probably host us in September) and Bernhard Kuehn poured the wines. My favorites were:

2013 Jacobus Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2012 Doosberg Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Lenchen Riesling Auslese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Peter Jakob, Angela and Benrhard Kuehn - Angela Kuehn resting with Agnes Hasselbach, Weingut Gunderloch

Weingut Clemens Busch

Weingut Clemens Busch showed 6 wines. Clemens Busch poured the wines with his son Johannes. Rita Busch, who will most likely host us in September, did not come to Mainz. My favorites were:

2012 Marienburg Riesling GG VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Marienburg Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Marienburg Riesling Spaetlese VDP. Grosse Lage

Picture: Clemens Busch

Weingut Dr. Loosen

Weingut Dr. Loosen showed 9 wines. Ernst Loosen was not in Mainz, but on his way to the US. My favorites were:

2013 Dr. Loosen Weisser Burgunder trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Graach, Riesling trocken, VDP.Ortswein
2012 Lay, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Treppchen, Riesling Kabinett, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Dr. Loosen's Desiree Schroeder visiting the table of Weingut Weil

Weingut von Hoevel

Weingut von Hoevel schowed 9 wines, with 3 of them in the trocken category. Maximilian von Kunow, who will host us in September, poured the wines. My favorites were:

2012 Scharzhofberger, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 LMEAAX, Riesling feinherb, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Huette, Riesling Spaetlese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Maximilian von Kunow and Christian G.E.Schiller

Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt

Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt showed 10 wines. Annegret Reh-Gartner, who will host us in September, poured the wines. My favorites were:

2010 Goldtroepfchen, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Scharzhofberger, Riesling Kabinett, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Goldtroepfchen, Riesling Auslese, Lange Goldkapsel #5, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Annegret Reh-Gartner with a Staff Member

Weingut Doennhoff

Weingut Doennhoff showed 8 wines. Cornelius Doennhoff poured the wines. I also saw Helmut Doennhoff at the Weinboerse, who probably will host us in September, but I did not see him pouring wines. Interestingly, Cornelius did not pour any GG. My favorites were (all barrel samples):

2013 Kirschheck, Riesling Spaetlese, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Bruecke, Riesling Spaetlese, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Hermannshoehle, Riesling Auslese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Pictures: Cornelius Doennhoff pouring and Helmut Doennhoff tasting the wines of August Kesseler, with Paul Fuerst

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf showed 8 wines. Except for one, they were all dry. Georg Rumpf was there all the time, assisted by his father Stefan Rumpf. My favorites were:

2013 Weisser Burgunder trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Schiefer, Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Quarzit, Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Dautenpflaenzer, Riesling Spaetlese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller with Stefan and Georg Rumpf

Schlossgut Diel

Weingut Diel showed 10 wines. Interestingly, 5 of them were at the Gutswein level. Caroline Diel, who has taken over from her father Armin Diel, poured the wines, assisted by her staff. Armin Diel also helped out. My favorites were:

2013 Diel de Diel, Weisses Cuvee trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2006 Goldloch Riesling, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Goldloch, Kabinett, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Goldloch, Spaetlese, VDP. Grosse Lage

Pictures: Armin Diel and Caroline Diel with Schwarzer Adler Sommeliere Melanie Wagner and her Team

Weingut Schaetzel

Not a VDP member.

Postings on schiller-wine

Here is a list of postings about the winemaker we will visit.

Pawis
Weingut Pawis in the Saale Unstrut Region - A Profile, Germany

Gussek
Visiting Andre Gussek and his Weingut Winzerhof Gussek in Saale Unstrut, Germany

Robert Weil
Christian G.E. Schiller's Review of the Book: Ralf Frenzel (ed.) - Riesling, Robert Weil. Tre Torri, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2013, in: Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 9, 2014, No. 1, Cambridge University Press
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Kloster Eberbach
In the Steinberg, Eberbach Abbey, Rheingau, Germany

Thoerle
Tasting with Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Weingut Thoerle in Saulheim, Rheinhessen, Germany
The Tim Atkin Pinot Noir Taste-Off of October 2011: Germany Versus the Rest of the World - German Red Wines Show Strong Performance
Surprising the World with their Pinot Noir: Johannes and Christoph Thoerle, Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen, Germany
The Wines of Up and Coming Winzerhof Thoerle, Rheinhessen

Kuehling Gillot
Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany
The Wine Maker Couple H.O. Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot, with Roland Gillot, Lead Wine Tasting of Kuehling-Gillot and Battenfeld-Spanier Wines at Weingut Kuehling-Gillot, Germany

Kuenstler
Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

Peter Jakob Kuehn
A Tasting at Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau, with Angela and Peter Jakob Kühn, Germany

Clemens Busch
German Star Winemaker Clemens Busch, Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, in Washington DC, USA
Tasting with Rita Busch at Weingut Clemens Busch in the Mosel Valley, Germany 

Dr. Loosen
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World;
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Von Hoevel
"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
Weingut von Hoevel – The New Generation: Max von Kunow in Washington DC, US

Reichsgraf von Kesselstadt
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Doennhoff
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

Kruger-Rumpf (VDP)
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour, Tasting and Lunch with Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe Valley, Germany
Winemaker Dinner with Georg and Stefan Rumpf and with Cornelia Rumpf at Weingut Kruger- Rumpf in the Nahe Valley, Germany 
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Diel
Caroline and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe Valley), Presented their New Wines (Vintage 2012), Germany
Visiting Armin and Caroline Diel and their Schlossgut Diel in Burg Layen in Germany
President Obama Serves a “German” Riesling at State Dinner for Chinese President Hu Jintao
Visiting Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, Washington State - Where Armin Diel’s Poet’s Leap Riesling is Made, USA

Schaetzel
Celebrating Riesling and my Birthday at Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
A New Fixture in the Reemerging Red Slope of Nierstein - Visiting Kai Schaetzel and his Weingut Schaetzel in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany
Riesling Lounge Goes Lomo, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Fritz Keller, Weingut Franz Keller, Baden, at the 2014 Weinboerse

The VDP.Weinboerse is an annual 2-day event in Mainz, Germany. It is the first comprehensive presentation by the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers, of the white wines of the new vintage, for trade, restaurants and press only. This year about 175 VDP producers were on hand to present more than 1500 wines. Some 3200 professionals from all over the world attended.

The VDP Producers of the 2014 ombiasy Germany South Tour: The Sun-kissed German South

With the 2 German wine tours coming up later in the year, I focused on those winemakers that we will visit in September 2014. In this posting, I confined myself to the Sun-kissed German South Tour.

Pictures: 2014 Weinboerse  in Mainz (Photo below: Markus Budai)

The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South)

From September 14 – September 20, 2014, we will explore three wine regions (Baden, Pfalz, southern Rheinhessen) in the south of Germany and will experience the German red wine revolution. We will visit 16 crème de la crème wineries in southern Germany, normally not open to visitors. We will cross the Rhine River and visit the Maison Trimbach in Alsace to taste the difference between German and Alsatian wines despite the geographic proximity. Among the highlights will be tasting first class Pinot Noirs with the winemakers, and experiencing the culinary South. A special treat will be wine pairing lunches at 1-Michelin-star restaurants.

See here for more on the tour:
The Sun-kissed German South (Germany-South) 

See here for the other German tour:
Quintessential German Whites (Germany-North)
2014 Weinboerse in Mainz – The VDP Producers of the 2014 ombiasy Germany North Tour

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with US Importer Kevin Pike and German Star Wine Photographer and (recently also) Winemaker Andreas Durst.

This is a new tour, with a large number of southern producers of ultra-premium German wine included:

Weingut Schloss Neuweier

Weingut Schloss Neuweier showed 10 wines. Winemaker and owner Robert Schaetzle, who will host us in September, and his father, did all the pouring themselves. With two exceptions, all wines were Erste or Grosse Lage wines. Here are my favorites:

2012 Goldenes Loch, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2012 Mauerwein, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Neuweier, Riesling trocken, VDP.Ortswein

Picture: Robert Schaetzle and his Father

Weingut Karl H. Johner

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Franz Keller

Weingut Franz Keller showed 8 wines. Weingut Franz Keller is part of a larger empire, owned and run by Fritz Keller, who also poured the wines. I talked with him, but mainly about soccer (Fritz Keller is also the President of the FC Freiburg). Most of the time, his son Friedrich Keller jun. did the pouring. I also spotted Melanie Wagner, Sommeliere of the restaurant Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler, but I saw her only at other tables, tasting the wines there. My favorites were:

2012 Oberbergener Bassgeige, Spaetburgunder trocken, VDP.Erste Lage
2013 Oberbergener Pulverbuck, Weisser Burgunder trocken, VDP.Erste Lage
2010 Chardonnay – Sect Zero Dosage, Sekt

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Friedrich Keller jun.

Weingut Huber

Weingut Huber showed 10 wines. Bernhard Huber was there to pour on the first day and his wife Barbara Huber came for the second day. My favorites were:

2012 Malterdinger Auxerrois trocken, VDP.Ortswein
2011 Bienenberg Spaetburgunder GG, Barrique, VDP.Grosse Lage
2011 Schlossberg Spaetburgunder GG, Barrique, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Barbara Huber

Weingut Dr. Heger

Weingut Dr. Heger poured 5 wines. Owner Joachim Heger poured only occasionally, while winemaker Markus Mleinek, who will host us in September, took the lead at the tasting table. Again, with Joachim Heger I talked about soccer. My favorites were:

2011 “Mimus” Ihringer Winklerberg, Spaetburgunder trocken, Barrique
2012 Ihringer Winklerberg, Chardonnay trocken, Barrique, VDP.Erste Lage
2011 Winklerberg Haeusleboden, Spaetburgunder GG, Barrique, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller, Joachim Heger and Markus Mleinek

Weingut Zaehringer

Not a VDP producer.

Maison Trimbach

In Alsace.

Weingut Friederich Becker

Weingut Friedrich Becker showed 10 wines. When I tasted the wines, Friedrich Wilhelm Becker (jun.) poured the wines, but I also had a chat with Friedrich Becker (sen.). My favorites were:

2012 Reserve, Chardonnay trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2011 B, Spaetburgunder trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2011 Sankt Paul, Spaetburgunder GG, VDP.Grosse Lage

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller, Friedrich Becker jun. and Friedrich Becker sen.

Weingut Oekonomierat Rebholz

Weingut Oekonomierat Rebholz showed 10 wines. Interestingly, all wines were either an Ortswein or a Gutswein. Hansjoerg Rebholz took the lead at the tasting table. My favorites were:

2013 Pfalz, Sauvignon Blanc trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Pfalz, Muskateller trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 vom Loesslehm, Grauer Burgunder, VDP.Ortswein

Picture: Hansjoerg Rebholz and his Son

Weingut Bassermann-Jordan

Weingut Bassermann-Jordan showed 10 wines, covering all 4 quality levels. My favorites were:

2013 von Bassermann-Jordan, Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2012 Jesuitengarten, Riesling GG, VDP.Grosse Lage
2013 Ungeheuer, Riesling Auslese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with General Manager Gunther Hauck

Weingut A. Christmann

Weingut A. Christmann showed 10 wines. Owner and VDP President Steffen Christmann poured the wines, assisted by his team. My favorites were:

2013 Pfalz, Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Riesling trocken, VDP.Erste Lage
2010 Koenigsbacher Oelberg, Spaetburgunder trocken, VDP.Erste Lage

Picture: Steffen Christmann

Weingut Weegmueller

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Markus Schneider

Not a VDP member.

Weingut Wittmann

Weingut Wittmann showed 6 wines. 4 of the 6 wines were at the Ortswein lelel. Weingut Wittmann did not show any Grosses Gewaechs wine. Philipp Wittmann poured the wines, assisted by his team. My favorites were:

2013 Silvaner trocken, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs
2013 Westhofen, Riesling trocken, Fassprobe, VDP.Ortswein
2013 Morstein, Riesling Auslese, VDP.Grosses Gewaechs

Picture: Philipp Wittmann's Table - Always a Large Crowd

Weingut Klaus Peter Keller

VDP member, but did not attend the Weinboerse.

Weingut Gunderloch

Weingut Gunderloch showed 7 wines. I saw Agnes Hasselbach pouring as well as her son (and now owner) Johannes Hasselbach and her husband Fritz Hasselbach. Weingut Gunderloch will be the final stop on our forthcoming tour. My favorites were:

2013 Gunderloch Riesling trocken, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Jean Baptiste, Riesling Kabinett, VDP.Gutswein
2013 Rothenberg, Riesling Spaetlese, VDP.Grosse Lage

Picture: Johannes Hasselbach

Postings on schiller-wine About the Winemakers

Here is a selection of postings on schiller-wine about the winemakers we will visit.

Neuweier
Weingut Schloss Neuweier– Robert Schaetzle, Baden, Germany

Karl H. Johner
Visiting Winemaker and Web 2.0 Guru Patrick Johner - Weingut Karl Heinz Johner and Johner Estate - in Baden, Germany
German Wine Makers in the World: Karl Heinz Johner in New Zealand

Freiherr von Gleichenstein
In the Glass: A 2007 Pinot Noir from the Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year - Estate of Baron Gleichenstein

Fritz Keller
Lunch at an Iconic Restaurant in Baden, Germany: Restaurant Schwarzer Adler

Huber
One of the Fathers of the German Red Wine Revolution: Weingut Huber in Baden

Dr. Heger
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Zaehringer
The Millésime Bio 2010 in Montpellier, France: A Discovery of Organic and Biodynamic Wines from Around the World at the One of a Kind Wine Trade Show

Maison Trimbach
A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France
Back in the Washington DC Area: Jean Trimbach Presented Maison Trimbach Wines at a Winemaker Dinner at Open Kitchen, USA (2013)
Visiting Jean Trimbach at Maison Trimbach in Ribeauville in Alsace (2011)
With Jean Trimbach from Domaine Trimbach, Alsace, at Bart M. Vandaele’s Belga Café in Washington DC (2011)
Jean Trimbach and the Wines of Maison Trimbach in Washington DC (2010)

Friederich Becker
5 Top Wine Makers at Premier Cru Wein Bistro in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Rebholz

Bassermann-Jordan
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA 

Christmann
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

Weegmueller
The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Markus Schneider
The Wines Chancelor Merkel Served President Obama and Michelle Obama in Berlin (and the Wines she did not Serve), Germany
German Riesling and International Grape Varieties – Top Wine Makers Wilhelm Weil and Markus Schneider at Kai Buhrfeindt’s Grand Cru in Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Wittmann
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012

Klaus Peter Keller
Germany's Top 16 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2012

Gunderloch
Special Wine Event on March 18, 2014, in Washington DC with "Wurzelwerk": 3 Terroirs, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
"Wurzelwerk" Goes America: 3 Vineyards, 3 Winemakers and 9 Wines
Weingut Gunderloch– The New Generation: Owner Johannes Hasselbach in Washington DC, US
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, German
Riesling Lounge Goes Lomo, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dorothee Zillike, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, at Frankfurt/Wein in Frankfurt, Germany

At the innitiative of Gernot Dorsch and Wolfgang Feierfeil (Frankfurt/Wein), Winemaker Dorothee Zilliken (Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken), was in town (Frankfurt am Main, Germany) to present her portfolio. Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken is one of Germany’s leading producer of fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines. The estate enjoys cult status in some circles, including with some of my wine friends in the Washington DC area.

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken produces 100% Riesling wines, of which about 80% is fermented in a sweet style. 70% of the production is exported. In the US, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken has been in the portfolio of Rudi Wiest Selection for a long time.

The photos in this posting were taken by Axel Gross (grossaufnahmen.de) and by me.

For a recent winemaker dinner in Frankfurt, organized by Frankfurt/Wein, see:
Doepfner’s im Maingau Meets Frankfurt/Wein, with Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier and Weingut Chat Sauvage, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Picture: Frankfurt/Wein

Riesling from New York to Tokyo

Dorothee Zilliken: From uncomplicated and fresh estate wines to elegant bottles destined to accompany fine meals and sweet, late harvest wines that will only begin to mature and develop ten years after harvest, Zilliken Rieslings are beloved by aficionados from New York to Tokyo. Wine critics proclaim: Geltz Zilliken's wines are a perpetual player in the international Champion's League of wine. Put simply, they are among the finest Rieslings the world has to offer.

We aren't influenced by international trends and styles (except perhaps by a name like 'Butterfly'). We instead focus on timeless tradition, beginning with our labels, the same as those our grandfather placed on his bottles. There are no compromises when it comes to quality; we do things as they have always been done. Our dry Rieslings stand proudly in our portfolio, shoulder to shoulder with their better-known noble sweet counterparts — Auslese, Trockenbeeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The best of these wines will be sent to auction.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and Winetours, Christian G.E. Schiller, Gernot Dorsch and Wolfgang Feierfeil, Frankfurt/Wein, and Winemaker Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken (Both Photos: Axel Gross grossaufnahmen.de)

See also:
3 Wine Tours by ombiasy Coming up in 2014: Germany-North, Germany-South and Bordeaux

History

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is located in the Saar Valley, which belongs to the Mosel district, very close to France and Luxembourg. Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a founding member of the VDP, the association of German elite winemakers.

As early as 1742, or 270 years ago, records show that the ancestors of the Zilliken family were active as wine producers in both Saarburg and Ockfen. The initial status and reputation of the estate’s wines were primarily the work of the Royal Prussian District Forester, Ferdinand Geltz (1851-1925).

In 1976 Hanno Zilliken and his father succeeded in restoring the original estate to its former size after it had previously been partitioned through inheritances. Hanno Zilliken started in 1976 as cellar master and took ownership in 1981.

In 2007, his oldest daughter, Dorothee Zilliken, who led the winetasting in Frankfurt am Main, joined the estate after completing her studies at Geisenheim University and a two year stint at Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau. Dorothee is married to Philipp Zilliken (nee Hoffmann), who is a career changer and recently started to work at the estate.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and Winetours, and Winemaker Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

Vineyard

With a vineyard area of 11 hectares, Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a small estate. It is a family-run estate, with only 2 full-time employees and seasonal workers for the harvest. All grapes are sourced from its two VDP.Grosse Lage vineyards: Saarburger Rausch and Ockfener Bockstein, including for its popular “Butterfly” wine.

Saarburger Rausch - Thinly layered slate, very gravelly with basalt rock, (Diabas), and veins of reddish earth. The Rieslings from the Rausch exhibit an interesting, subtle, dusty gout de terroir along with citrus, lemon balm and flint.

Ockfener Bockstein - Grey slate, sandstone laced with quartzite, gravelly, and intermittent yellow earth. Bockstein Rieslings are more steely and straight ahead but also apples, pears and citrus.

Pictures: Gernot Dorsch and Wolfgang Feierfeil, Frankfurt/Wein, and Winemaker Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken (Both Photos: Axel Gross grossaufnahmen.de)

Wine Cellar

The Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken wine cellar is very special. I have heard this from many sources and Dorothee talked quite a bit about the cellar: We have a very old cellar. It's 100 years old and it's very dark, humid and cold. The humidity is always between 95% and 99% so it very high and looks like a cave that is always dropping. It's very good for our corks. When we close the cork it stays very soft and gentle which is perfect for the storage conditions. Especially for the normal sweet wines we can store them for: 30, 40 or 50 years in our cork cellar without recorking them. So these corks will always stay in the bottle which is perfect.

We are fermenting all our wines in our German oak barrels and not those stainless steel tanks but small barrels. The content is about 1000 liters and is toasted inside giving a flavor vanilla aroma to the wine. These German barrels are none toasted so they are neutral and not giving any flavors. However, we think that it's worth to work with these German barrels because they are rounding the wine a bit and gives the wine more harmony. From the working point of view, it would be much easier to have these tank steel barrels but we will then miss more taste in the mouth.

Pictures: Wolfgang Feierfeil, Frankfurt/Wein, and Winemaker Dorothee Zilliken, Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken

Riesling

Weingut Geltz-Zilliken is a 100% Riesling producer. Dorothee Zilliken: We are just producing the Riesling grape variety. We think it's more worth to produce it there because we have a Devonian Slate terroir, which is the best condition for growing Riesling. We have very steep mountains vineyards that are between 30 and 60 degrees of steepness. We are only harvesting by hand which is very important for us because then you can safe all the quality of the grapes. Because if you are taking the housing machine and run through the vineyard lines it will also be catching as for example a lot of leaves and the pressure on the grapes is too high. This is the reason why we are only harvesting by hand.

The Wines Dorothee Poured

2013 Zilliken Riesling trocken VDP.Gutswein

Dorothee Zilliken: Grapes were picked early in the harvest – first selection. Only healthy grapes. In terms of Oechsle, picked at Spaetlese level. Fully fermented to a dry level, although our dry wines generally are at the border of what can be classified as trocken.

2012 Rausch Riesling Grosses Gewaechs VDP.Grosse Lage

Dorothee Zilliken: It is a recent development that we make premium dry wines. 2013, we did not make any Grosses Geaechs, because we felt the conditions were not right for a Grosses Gewaechs. In the traditional classification, this would be an Auslese trocken. It is an elegant wine, a bit withdrawn, which needs some time in the glass to fully open up.

2013 Zilliken Riesling Butterfly VDP.Gutswein

Dorothee Zilliken: We started to produce Butterfly in 2002, with 6000 bottles. We quickly moved to 22000 bottles and are now back to 15000, because we need the grapes for our other wines. Butterfly is well balanced thanks to the sugar acidity which makes it fit to a lot of different kind of food. If you have a meal with more spiciness then you should take a more sweet wine like.

David Bowler in New York offers currently the 2012 Butterfly and writes: 18g/l RS, 7.5g acid and 11.5 alcohol. The everyday sipping wine from Zilliken in a “feinherb” or medium-dry style sourced mainly from the Saarburger Rausch grand cru with a small percentage of Ockfener Bockstein - two incredible sites! That’s a rather deluxe “sipping wine.” The palate of the 2012 is juicy, vital and delicious, with crystalline clarity of flavor and a dash of celery salt sprinkled over a lemon and green apple core. It’s as good as or better than this cuvee has EVER been —-proof positive that winemaker Dorothee Zilliken (who shepherded this wine into being) is a sure-handed heir to her father Hanno.

2013 Bockstein Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage

Dorothee Zilliken: 50g/l RS – which you barely taste in the glass. Apple, pear. A very elegant wine.

2012 Rausch Riesling Spaetlese VDP.Grosse Lage

Dorothee Zilliken: Less yellow fruit notes and more tropical fruit notes (compared to the previous wine) – Pineapple, Mango, Maracuja. Long finish with good acidity. Can be easily put away for 20 years. Has some botrityzed grapes.

2010 Rausch Riesling Spaetlese VDP.Grosse Lage

Dorothee Zilliken: Tons of apricot notes, also tropical fruit notes. Because of the acidity, you can put away the wine for 30 years. Has some botrityzed grapes, but you do not taste it.

2012 Rausch Riesling Auslese VDP.Grosse Lage

Vrienden van de Riesling: Complex fruit in the nose with lots of primary fruit (exotic, like pineapple), a delicate spiciness but also a lot of dried fruit (date, figs). After a powerful start follows an almost refreshing lightness by the precise balance between sweet and acid. The finish, with fine citric acidity, is very long.

2010 Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel VDP.Grosse Lage

Wine Spectator April 30, 2012: Very focused, with rich, luscious and vibrant flavors of ginger cream, spiced peach, apricot tart and spiced pear. Creamy notes linger on the long, juicy finish, which features minerally hints. 92


Bye-bye

Thank you Dorothee for a great evening. 


schiller-wine: Related Postings

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A panel of 29 sommeliers, retailers and wine writers selected its 2014 top 20 winemakers from South Africa. You find the list below, following some introductory remarks about the wine producer South Africa.

Wine Producer South Africa

South Africa is a New World wine country, with a long wine history. With about 100.000 hectares of land under vine, it accounts for 1.5% of the world's grape vineyards. Yearly production is around 10 million hectoliters, which puts the country among the top ten wine producing countries in the world.

I have traveled in South Africa many times in the past 3 decades, in particular during the period 1989 to 1992, when I used to live in Madagascar.

When traveling in South Africa today, it quickly becomes evident that apartheid is resting in the dustbin of history. South Africa’s current President is the Zulu Jakob Zuma, who is mired in personal and political controversy. The Txosa Nelson Mandela, who had spent more than 25 years in prison during apartheid, was President in the 1990s and is now a revered elder called "Madiba" ("Papa"). South Africa successfully hosted the Soccer World Cup. The Soccer World Cup was hoped to provide a boost to the tourism industry; but indications are that the expected boost did not materialize, at least not fully. The gap between the haves and have-nots continues to be wide, but is narrowing and a black middle class is emerging. This, however, is not so much evident in the wine region, which continues to be dominated by the whites; Cape Town even has a white mayor. 99% of the vineyard area is in the hands of whites. The AIDS pandemic is taking a huge toll with the HIV infection rate at about 20 percent.

Over the course of the years, I have detected an increasing openness, pride and camaraderie among all the South Africans – white, colored or black, Boers or Brits; Indians, Jews, Zulus, Txosas or Vendas, I met. Nevertheless, this rainbow society with a share of 75% of blacks, has huge challenges to cope with.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Sales and Marketing Manager (from 2009 to 2012) Thys Lombard at Tokara

Wine History

It all began in 1655, with wine seedlings from Europe, ordered by the commander of the newly formed station of the Dutch East India Company - the largest company in the world at the time - at the Cape, the Dutch surgeon Jan van Riebeeck. He knew that for the long ship journey from Europe to India around the Cape of Good Hope, wine was better than water as the latter often got rotted in the barrels, causing the dangerous scurvey for sailers. Four years later, in 1659, Jan van Riebeeck made his first wine in South Africa.

Before the arrival of the European settlers, African tribes had settled in the area. Today, the most influential African tribes are the Xhosas (the most famous Xhosa is former President Mandela) and the Zulus (the most famous Zulu is current President Zuma).

Among the white settlers were former sailors, adventurers and people who left Europe for religious reasons. The latter included the Huguenots who had fled to Holland to escape religious persecution. Many of them settled in Franschhoek and brought wine-making know how to the Cape region.

Another mile stone in the wine history of South Africa is the pioneering work of the Boer Governor Simon van der Stel. He founded the famous Constantia Estate that is viewed as the nucleus of the South African wine industry.

As the 18th century drew to a close, the Dutch power began to fade worldwide, and the Cape region fell under British rule. When the Brits arrived, 25000 white mainly Boer colonists lived in the region; they were pushed up to the north as the Brits took over the region. As a result of the British rule, the South African wine industry blossomed as it benefitted from preferential treatment in the British market. By 1859 more than 4 million liters of South African wine were exported to Britain. This changed dramatically when as the result of the Cobden-Chevalier Treaty in 1861 the preferential tariffs were abolished helping French wine exports to regain the British market. By 1865, exports had dried up to a mere 0.5 million liter.

The turn of the century saw a large overproduction of wine in South Africa. To cope with the surplus, the South African winemakers formed a wine cooperative in 1918, the Kooperatieve Wijnbouw Vereniging van Zuid Afrika (KWV). Initially started as a cooperative, the KWV soon grew in power and prominence to where it would to set policies and prices for the entire wine industry. At the same time, in the second half of the 1900s, the trade barrier of anti-apartheid sanctions ensured that South Africa’s wine exports fell to virtually zero and that the tiny domestic market became the industry’s only consumer.

It was not until the end of apartheid in 1993/94 that the wine industry started to see a brighter future again, and the renaissance of the South African wine industry began. This renaissance was fueled by a rapid increase of foreign demand for South African wine and substantial investments, financed by foreigners as well as locals. Most of the wineries I visited in October 2010 had come into existence only after the collapse of the apartheid regime. Today, South Africa is a New World wine country, with a long wine history and tradition of winemaking.

Wine Industry

Unlike other New World wine regions, the South African wine industry is strongly influenced by several large wine-cooperatives, including Distel and KWV; in total, there about 60 co-operatives. In addition, there are about 25 trading companies, or negociants, which often operate wineries, but seldom own their own vineyards. Among these are SAVISA, Winecorp, Stellenbosch Vineyards and Graham Beck; Western Wines is among the trading companies that are foreign based and owned; their brand Kumala is by far South Africa’s biggest brand. Over 80% of the total crop is delivered to these large wineries by about 4000 wine growers. However, private wineries have increasingly emerged and seen an impressive growth; there are now about 600 winemakers with their own cellars, most of them in the premium wine segment.

More than half of the total production is exported. The previous Cape powers, the UK and Netherlands, are traditionally the main destinations for wines shipments; but other markets are coming up, including Sweden, Denmark, the USA, Germany and Angola.

The wine industry is firmly in the hands of the whites, both white South Africans and foreign investors. But I had the pleasure to meet Ntsiki Biyela, a female black winemaker, who is producing outstanding wines at Stellekaya in Stellenbosch. Also, the Diemersfontein wine portfolio included a line of wines that was produced in the framework of the Black Economic Empowerment (BEE) program (to promote the black community's involvement in the South African wine industry-including ownership opportunities for vineyards and wineries).


Grape Varieties

Although there has been a significant shift in favor of red wine varieties, reflecting increasing demand for the international varieties Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, white wine is still in the lead, accounting for a bit more than half of the total. Pinotage, which is a native grape of South Africa, also shows an upward trend. Among the white wines, Chenin Blanc is the front runner, followed by Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Cabernet Sauvignon has become the most widely planted red grape variety, accounting for 25 percent of the red wines. Shiraz seems to like the climate of the Cape very much and produces very intense full-bodied wines. In recent years, Shiraz has been planted in particular in the warmer growing areas. Although Pinot Noir is rarely grown in South Africa, it can be found in the cooler regions Walker Bay and Elgin, producing exceptionally good wines there. Merlot has traditionally been used for cuvees with Cabernet Sauvignon; but winemakers have started to produce 100% Merlot wines.

Pinotage is the signature grape of South Africa. In 1925, a South African researcher at the University of Stellenbosch crossed the Pinot Noir with the Hermitage (Cinsaut): This was the birth of Pinotage. It now accounts for more than 20 percent of South Africa’s red wine. It is made in a broad range of styles, from easy-drinking quaffing wine and rosé to barrel-aged wine intended for cellaring. It is also used for port-style wine and red sparkling wine.

In recent years, many new Chardonnay vineyards have moved into the production phase. Whether fermented in barrels or in steel tanks, the Chardonnay from the Cape region is always elegant in style, combined with refreshing fruit flavors on the palate. Viognier shows its full potential in South Africa and plantings are increasing. Two hundred years ago, Semillon was the dominant grape variety in the Cape region; today it is rather the exception. South African Sauvignon Blancs enjoy an increasing popularity; the plantings are concentrated in the cooler altitudes of Constantia, Paarl and Stellenbosch. Although on a downward trend, some South African wine makers are pushing the Chenin Blanc grape, trying to improve the quality and diversifying into different styles. Other white varieties include Colombard, Gewurztraminer, Muscat of Alexandria and Pinot Gris.

Finally, Cape Riesling is widely grown in the Cape, but is actually not a Riesling, the great grape from Germany, but a Crouchon Blanc, originating in Southern France, but seldomly grown there. By contrast, the noble Riesling is a niche wine, which, until this year, had to be labeled as Weisser Riesling or Rhine Riesling. Only from this year on, Riesling can be labeled as Riesling, without the pre-fixes Weisser or Rhine.

Picture: Entrance of Klein Constantia

Wine Growing Regions

Under the "Wine of Origins" (WO) system, wine zones fall under one of four categories. The largest are Geographical Units (such as the Western Cape region), which includes the smaller, but still largely defined Regions (such as Overberg), followed by districts (like Walker Bay) and finally wards (such as Elgin). WO wines must be made 100% from grapes from the designated area.

Constantia ward: Located south of Cape Town on the Cape Peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic ocean, it is the cradle of the South African wine industry and was through the 18th and 19th centuries regarded as South Africa’s grand cru territory.

Stellenbosch district: the second oldest wine zone, accounting for around 14% of the country's wine production. The seven wards of Stellenbosch-Banghoek, Bottelary, Devon Valley, Jonkershoek Valley, Papegaaiberg, Polkadraai Hills and Simonsberg-Stellenbosch are well known for their red wines.

Paarl: For most of the 20th century, Paarl was for all practical purposes the heart of the South African wine industry, as it was the home of the KWV. The importance of Paarl has declined with the emergence of a strong private sector.

The Franschhoek Valley, a ward, was founded by Huguenot settlers who brought with them their winemaking know-how.

The Breede River Valley, located east of the Drakenstein Mountains, is a warm climate region; the river itself provides easy access to irrigation which makes bulk wine production of high yield varieties commonplace. The Robertson district is located closest to the river along alluvial soils. The Worcester district is responsible for more wine than any other wine region in the country with almost one quarter of the total coming from this area.

The cool climate Overberg region received very little attention until the late 20th century, but its wines are becoming increasingly sought after, notably the wines of Walker Bay with the various Hemel-en-Arde wards and of the cool, higher elevation vineyards of Elgin located east of Cape Town.

The Atlantic influenced West Coast region includes the areas of Durbanville, Olifants River, Piketberg and Swartland. Historically known for its bulk wine production, in recent years, in particular in Swartland, innovative producers making excellent premium wines have emerged.

The Top 20 Producers

Here is the list, published in the Mail and Guardian on April 23, 2014, with the comments of the Mail and Guardian.

1. Sadie Family Wines. Eben Sadie, an emblematic figure of the Cape's wine revolution, has been making his red Columella and white Palladius blends since the early years of the century. Local and international acclaim brought fame to the whole Swartland area, initiating its great renaissance. Then came Sadie's widely-inspiring Old Vineyard Series, confirming his vision, insight and energy.

2. Mullineux Family Wines. Young Chris Mullineux and his American wife Andrea are based in the little town of Riebeek-Kasteel, buying grapes, especially Shiraz and Chenin Blanc, from Swartland vineyards. They soared onto the Top 20 list in 2012 at number 10, and this year made another record leap: they are just squeezed out of the top spot by their good friend and near-neighbour.

3. Kanonkop, in Stellenbosch, is the longest-established winery in the Top 5 - and the only winery to have been there every time since the first poll in 2001. No other producer in the list has such an impressive track record of great wines ?– especially the Paul Sauer blend, made since 1981, but also Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon.

4. Boekenhoutskloof was in the 2001 Top 20 category, but has grown in size and is renown under the continued direction of cellar master Marc Kent. Based at the organic home-farm in Franschhoek, it also draws grapes from far and near.

5. Chamonix started revealing the vinous potential of its Franschhoek mountainside soils after Gottfried Mocke arrived in 2001 to look after vineyards and cellars with his flair and insight. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc have always done well here; now a handful of reds, especially Pinot Noir, join them amongst the country's best – and there's not a dud in sight.

6. Paul Cluver Estate makes mostly white wines off the extensive, pioneering Elgin domaine, but the Pinot Noir is equally fine.

7. Newton Johnson is one of this year's big climbers. This quintessential family farm in the Hemel-en-Aarde near Hermanus is most famous for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

8. Cape Point Vineyards, lashed by cool sea-winds near Noordhoek on the Peninsula, has seen winemaker Duncan Savage establish an enviable reputation for its white wines.

9. Hamilton Russell Vineyards, pioneer of winemaking in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, is still famous for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – the latter widely regarded as the country's finest.

10. Vergelegen is one of Stellenbosch's great historic and contemporary showplaces, with André van
Rensburg continuing to produce a range of red and white wines to match.

11. Tokara, high on the Helshoogte Pass just outside Stellenbosch, makes superb, elegant wines from there (as well as Agulhas and Elgin) under Miles Mossop's deft direction.

12. Thelema is Tokara's neighbour but longer established (since 1983), with cellar master Gyles Webb amongst the pioneers of modern winemaking in the Cape.

13. Jordan has a large range of wines (modest to grand) from its sizeable Stellenbosch estate, run in masterly style by husband-and-wife winemaking team Gary and Kathy Jordan.

14. Cederberg is the highest new entry, as its mountainous vineyards are among the Cape's loftiest, though David Nieuwoudt also makes a fine range from vineyards near Cape Agulhas.

15. Delaire Graff – third and oldest of the Helshoogte wineries in the region – arrives to trumpet its reinvigoration since its purchase a decade back by British diamantaire Laurence Graff.

16. AA Badenhorst Family becomes the third Swartland winery in the Top 20, marking the great success of Adi Badenhorst's mighty labours on the run-down farm the family acquired in 2006.

17. Klein Constantia represents the Constantia Valley here, as well as the prestige particularly (though not solely) of its famous, historically relevant sweet wine, Vin de Constance.

18. Meerlust is one of Stellenbosch's great old estates, owned by the Myburghs since 1757, it's fine winemaking tradition re-energised for the past decade by winemaker Chris Williams.

19. Reyneke, one of few biodynamic wineries in the Cape, has its organic Stellenbosch vineyards cared for by "vine-hugger" Johan Reyneke, and its elegant wines crafted by the brilliant Rudiger Gretschel.

20. De Trafford returns after a brief absence, with David Trafford's big, ripe but well-balanced Stellenbosch wines as commanding as ever.

Judging Panel

Sommeliers: Hansi Joakim Blackadder, Gareth Ferreira, Neil Grant, Higgo Jacobs, James Pietersen, Joerg Pfuetzner, Francois Rautenbach.
Retailers: Carrie Adams, Carolyn Barton, Mark Norrish, Roland Peens, Caroline Rillema.
Local writers and critics: Michael Crossley, Christian Eedes, Michael Fridjhon, Edo Heyns, Tim James, Angela Lloyd, Melvyn Minnaar, Cathy Marston, Maggie Mostert, Ingrid Motteux, Christine Rudman, Cathy van Zyl.
International writers and critics: Tim Atkin, Tom Cannavan, Jamie Goode, Neal Martin, Anthony Rose.

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Riesling in South Africa  

Picture: Gunter Kuenstler and Christian G.E. Schiller at Restaurant Kronenschloesschen in the Rheingau (2013)

Last year, at one of the larger wine tastings in Germany, Gunter Kuenstler, Weingut Franz Kuenstler in Hochheim, Rheingau, told me that he was in the process of changing his American importer. He had already terminated the contract and was looking for a new importer. We talked a bit about his motives and options. This year, at the Weinboerse in Mainz, Gunter told me that he had decided to join the portfolio of Terry Theise.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim (2013)

The German Terry Theise Portfolio

Terry Theise is one of the leading importers, if not the leading importer of German wine in America. He has a large portfolio, comprising 40 German winemakers or so, including Doennhoff, Kruger-Rumpf, Diel, Selbach-Oster, Mueller-Catoir, Von Winning, to name a few.

Among the vast number of his followers, he has gained something like a cult status. He publishes a thick catalogue once a year with extensive comments. In addition to the compendium of exciting wine reviews, the Terry Theise’s annual catalogue is a very good introduction to German wine, both to the basics and to the current trends and issues.

Pictures: The late Franz Kuenstler with Annette Schiller at a Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim Tasting (2009)

His wines are imported by Michael Skurnik, an importer and distributor of fine wines based in Syosset, New York. Terry also imports Austrian wine and Champagnes, including excellent grower Champagnes.

Picture: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller with Gunter Kuenstler at Weingut Franz Kuenstler (2009)

If you want to learn more about Terry, the Washington Post carried an excellent article about him some time ago. See here.

2008 James Beard Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional
2005 Food & Wine Magazine Importer of the Year

A few comments on the German Portfolio of Terry Theise: First, there are no red wines, although they now account for 1/3 of the German wine output. Terry is clearly focusing on Germany’s white wines. Second, nor have I seen a category for sparkling wines; for sparklers, you have to go to his excellent portfolio of Champagnes, including many grower Champagnes. Third, Terry is known for having a preference for sweet-style wines, as far as German white wines are concerned, although his portfolio also includes dry wines. Remember, Terry also imports Austrian white wines and they are all dry. Fourth, his portfolio does not include any noble-sweet wines (Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein).

See also:
Terry Theise: German 2013 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany
Terry Theise: 2012 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany
Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA
2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage
Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

Weingut Franz Kuenstler

Weingut Franz Kuenstler is one of Germany’s world class wine producers. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking. The Wine Estate is currently run by Gunter Kuenstler, who took over from his father Franz a number of years ago. Basically, until the late 1980s Franz was in charge and from the early 1990s on, the Kuenstler wines were made by Gunter. Before founding his own winery in 1965, Franz Kuenstler worked for other wineries in Hochheim for 15 years.

Pictures: Gunter Kuenstler and Gregor Breuer at Weinboerse in Mainz, Germany (2014). See also: 2014 Weinboerse in Mainz– The VDP Producers of the 2014 ombiasy Germany North Tour

The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau.

I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Kuenstler wines and there is quite a number of Kuenstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.

Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim (12 hectares). A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Kuenstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive.

Pictures: Annette and Monika Kuenstler (2013)

Most recently, Gunter Kuenstler started a cooperation with a winemaker in Ruedesheim and began to offer wines from vineyards in Ruedesheim. This cooperation, however, is coming to an end. In the future, you will not see any wines from Ruedesheim in the Kuenstler portfolio.

Picture: Annette and Gunter Kuenstler in Wiesbaden (2013)

The vineyard area totals 37 hectares in the Domdechaney, Herrnberg, Hölle, Kirchenstück, Reichestal, Stein and Stielweg (Hochheim) as well as Weiß Erd (Kostheim), excluding vineyards in Ruedesheim. Riesling accounts for the bulk of it (29 hectares) but there is also Spätburgunder, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaking: Gunter Künstler, Rolf Schregel
Marketing: Gregor Breuer, Monika Künstler
Production: 20000 cases

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Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013

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The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany

Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84

Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany

Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma

World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler

Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany

schiller-wine: Related Posting (Terry Theise)

Terry Theise: German 2013 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany

Terry Theise: 2012 Vintage Wines - Highlights and Superlatives, Germany

Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2011 Vintage, Germany, USA

2011: Terry Theise’s Top German Wines of the 2010 Vintage

Terry Theise's Top German Wines of the 2009 Vintage

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Norbert and Renate Bardong, Sektkellerei Bardong

Norbert and Renate Bardong own and run a small Sekt House in Geisenheim, in the Rheingau in Germany. They came over to Frankfurt – a 45 minutes drive by car - to present their Sekt House and their Sekt portfolio to the Frankfurt Slow Food Group. We tasted 6 different Sekts: 3 of them were Bardong Sekts from their portfolio and 3 of them were Sekts, not on sale: The same base Sekt with different dosages, to introduce us to the skill of fine-tuning a Sekt with the right level of dosage.

Sekt in Germany

Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt.

Sekt is made in all German wine regions, both in the méthode traditionnelle and charmat method. There are three groups of Sekt makers: (i) large and (ii) smaller Sekt Houses that only make Sekt and (iii) wine makers, who make predominantly wine, but complement their wine selection by a few Sekts. The Sekts produced by large Sekt Houses tend to be in the demy-sweet and sweet range, while the Sekts of smaller estates and the wine makers are mostly in the brut and extra brut range. The Bardong Sekts are mostly brut, with some being extra brut.

Pictures: Norbert Bardong, Sektkellerei Bardong

There is a dozen or so large Sekt Houses in Germany, most of them established in the 1800s at the same time as the French Champagne Houses. At that time, there was only one method known to produce Sekt, the méthode traditionnelle. But in contrast to the Champagne Houses, the large German Sekt Houses all moved to the charmat method (in a tank) as main method of the second fermentation after World War II. Like the Champagne Houses, Sekt Houses do not own vineyards, but purchase the base wine from wine makers. More than three quarters of the base wine used to make Sekt is imported from other EU countries, essentially Italy, France and Spain. Sekt can only be labeled as Deutscher Sekt if it is made exclusively from German grapes, which is rare in the case of the large and the smaller Sekt Houses. Most of the Sekt Houses have beautiful chateau-type facilities with old underground cellars for the second fermentation and storage. Overall, these Sekts are reasonably priced, are of good quality, but with the introduction of the charmat method are no longer in the same class as their counterparts in the champagne region.

Like the large Sekt Houses, the smaller Sekt Houses – and Sektkellerei Bardong belongs to this group - do not own vineyards, but also buy the base wine from wine makers. They also tend to have a long history and often links to the champagne region, beautiful facilities and old cellars for the second fermentation and storage. The big difference is that they typically have not gone the route of tank fermentation but continue to ferment in the méthode traditionnelle.

Pictures: Norbert and Renate Bardong, Sektkellerei Bardong

Finally, there is a number of top quality winemakers, who, in addition, to their still wines, have started to include Sekts in their portfolio. These Sekts are typically vintage Sekts, from a specified vineyard, made of specific grapes, often Riesling, in the méthode champenoise and with little dosage (brut or extra but). While the first fermentation typically takes place at the winery, the second fermentation is often not in the cellar of the wine maker but in the cellar of a Sekt House that bottle-ferments for other wineries. Norbert Bardong started his Sekt House that way and still makes Sekt for wine makers, but has over time established his own portfolio of Sekts. Currently, about half of his production is accounted for by Sekt made for winemakers and half for the Bardong portfolio.

See also:
German Wine Basics: Sekt

Sektkellerei Bardong

Norbert Bardong: We do not produce any cuvées, we only make lieu-dit and vintage sparkling wines. The base wines are high-quality Kabinett wines whose fine aromas are to be found in Bardong sparkling wines.

Sektkellerei Bardong was founded by Norbert Bardong in the vaults of the former sparkling wine cellars of Schloss Rheinberg and Schloss Waldeck in Geisenheim in 1984. Norbert Bardong discovered his love of sparkling wine after studying Beverage Technology at the renowned wine university in Geisenheim and completing various internships, including one in the Champagne Region. It did not take him long to reach the decision to refine the wines of his Rheingau home district by himself to produce sparkling wines using the traditional method of classic bottle fermentation.

Pictures: Norbert Bardong, Sektkellerei Bardong

All of the sparkling wines of Sektkellerei Bardong are produced by hand using this method in order to guarantee their high quality. The base wines for these sparkling wines are Kabinett wines. There are no cuvees at Bardong, only sparkling wines made from one grape variety, from one single vineyard and from one vintage.

For the second fermentation, Norbert Bardong explained that he adds 26 gr of sugar. This produces a pressure of 6 bar (compared with 2 bar in a car tire).

All his sparkling wines mature on the yeast for at least 36 months – just like vintage champagne – and some for even up to 20 years, which helps them to develop their very special fine bubbles, delicious lightness and wonderful mellowness. The legal minimum requirement is 9 months.

Annual production is 100000 bottles. Riesling grapes account for 75 % and Pinot Noir grapes for 15 %.

The Sekts Norbert and Renate Bardong Poured

Norbert and Renate Bardong poured 6 different Sekts: 3 of them were Bardong Sekts from their portfolio and 3 of them were Sekts, not on sale: The same base Sekt with different dosages, to introduce us to the skill of fine-tuning a Sekt with the right level of dosage.


2009 Hallgartner Jungfer, Riesling, Rheingau, brut

2006 Chardonnay, Rheingau, brut

2008 Ruedesheimer Klosterberg, Blanc de Noir, Rheingau, brut


2008 Weissburgunder, Saale Unstrut 4 gr/l dosage

2008 Weissburgunder, Saale Unstrut 8 gr/l dosage

2008 Weissburgunder, Saale Unstrut 12 gr/l dosage

The favorite of the group was the one with the lowest dosage. Interestingly, the least liked Sekt was the one in the middle.

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German Wine Journalist and Blogger Mario Scheuermann released a most interesting list of the most expensive German dry white and red wines.

Of course, the German noble-sweet Rieslings (from Egon Mueller, JJ Pruem, just to name the two most famous producers) are expensive, sought after in the whole world. But these wines were excluded in Mario Scheuermann’s exercise: he confined himself to those categories – ultra-premium dry white and red – that are not yet on the radar of the wine lovers in the world, but nevertheless have seen a tremendous upswing in the past decades.

Mario Scheuermann grouped the wines into what he called the Grands Crus and the Premiers Crus categories. His starting point was Euro 28, which is according to the VDP – the association of about 200 elite winemakers in Germany - the current average price for Grosses Gewaechs (ultra-premium dry white and red) wines (presumably ex winery). Currently, there are more than 500 wines, which carry the label Grosses Gewaechs.

Picture: Mario Scheuermann (in the Middle) Tasting in Wiesbaden

Moving on from this price point, he grouped all wines in the Euro 50 to 100 as Premier Cru wines and those above Euro 100 as Grand Cru wines.

The prices are basically ex-winery prices, if I understand Mario Scheuermann correctly. The current US$/Euro exchange rate is Euro 1 = US§ 1.38.

Here is what he found.

Dry White Grands Crus

G Max Riesling, Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen), 350 – 500 Euro
Nierstein Hipping Riesling GG, Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen), 131 Euro
Gutedel hoch 4, Hans Peter Ziereisen (Baden), 120 Euro
Forst Kirchenstück Riesling GG, Dr. Bürklin Wolf (Pfalz), 100 Euro

Dry White Premiers Crus

Stromberg Riesling GG, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich (Nahe), 85 Euro
Westhofen Morstein Riesling GG, Weingut Keller(Rheinhessen), 74 Euro
Westhofen Abtserde Riesling GG, Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen), 72 Euro
Forst Jesuitengarten GG Dr. Bürklin Wolf (Pfalz), 70 Euro
Nierstein Pettenthal GG, Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen, 65 Euro
Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese trocken***, Markus Molitor (Mosel), 61,90 Euro’
Graach Himmelreich Riesling Auslese trocken ***, Markus Molitor (Mosel), 59,90 Euro
Forst Kirchenstück Riesling GG, Bassermann-Jordan (Pfalz), 59 Euro
Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling GG, Kühling-Gillot (Rheinhessen), 59 Euro
Steinberger Riesling Riesling GG, Staatsweingut Kloster Eberbach (Rheingau), 59 Euro

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Tim Fröhlich, Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich, in Wiesbaden

Red Grands Crus

Mayschoss Mönchberg Spätburgunder trocken, Jean Stodden (Ahr), 145 Euro
Rüdesheim Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG, August Kesseler (Rheingau), 120 Euro
Rüdesheim Drachenstein Pinot noir, Chat Sauvage (Rheingau), 120 Euro
Assmannshausen Höllenberg Pinot noir, Chat Sauvage (Rheingau), 120 Euro
Wildenstein Spätburgunder Reserve, Bernhard Huber (Baden), 120 Euro
Pinot noir Heydenreich Grosse Lage, Friedrich Becker (Pfalz), 110 Euro
Spätburgunder Reserve, Friedrich Becker (Pfalz), 105 Euro
Rottweil Eichberg Blauer Spätburgunder SJ, K H Johner (Baden), 100 Euro
Assmannshausen Höllenberg Spätburgunder GG, August Kesseler (Rheingau), 100 Euro

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Michael Staedter, Weingut Chat Sauvage, in Johannisberg, Rheingau, see:  Weingut Chat Sauvage – Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany

Red Premiers Crus

Bürgstadt Hundsrück Spätburgunder GG, Paul Fürst (Franken), 85 Euro
Spätburgunder Alte Reben, Jean Stodden (Ahr), 85 Euro
Graach Himmelreich Spätburgunder trocken ***, Markus Molitor (Mosel), 82,50 Euro
Walporzheim Kräuterberg Spätburgunder GG, J.J. Adeneuer (Ahr), 78 Euro
Brauneberg Klostergarten Spätburgunder trocken ***, Markus Molitor (Mosel), 77,20 Euro
Spätburgunder trocken Lange Goldkapsel, Jean Stodden (Ahr , 75 Euro
Rech Herrenberg Spätburgunder GG, Jean Stodden (Ahr), 69 Euro
Kreuzwertheim Kaffelstein Spätburgunder Edition Ottmar Hörl, Weingut Alte Grafschaft (Franken), 69 Euro
Nieder Flörsheim Frauenberg Spätburgunder GG, Weingut Keller (Rheinhessen), 68 Euro
Ihringen Winklerberg Häusleboden GG, Weingut Dr. Heger, 68 Euro
Spätburgunder CCL, Weingut Fritz Wassmer (Baden), 68 Euro
Walporzheimer Klosterberg, Meyer-Näkel Ahr), 65 Euro
Schweigen Kammerberg, Friedrich Becker (Pfalz), 65 Euro
Weil Schlipf Pinot noir CS Reserve ***, Weingut Claus Schneider, 65 Euro
Leimen Herrenberg, Spätburgunder GG, Weingut Seeger, 64 Euro
Rech Rosenberg Spätburgunder, Jean Stodden (Ahr), 60 Euro
Assmannhausen Höllenberg Spätburgunder trocken aus dem Cabinetkeller, Staatsweingut Assmannshausen (Rheingau), 59 Euro
Dottingen Castellberg, Pinot noir GC, Weingut Martin Wasmer (Baden), 58 Euro
Klingenberg Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG, Paul Fürst (Franken), 57 Euro
Oberrotweil Eichberg Spätburgunder, Franz Keller (Baden), 56 Euro
Hecklingen Schlossberg GG, Bernhard Huber (Baden), 55 Euro
Schweigen Sonnenberg Sankt Paul Grosse Lage, Friedrich Becker (Schweigen), 55 Euro
Syrah Reserve, Weingut Knipser (Pfalz), 55 Euro
Lemberger Cuvée trocken, Burg Ravensburg, 55 Euro
Walporzheim Gärkammer Spätburgunder, J. J. Adeneuer (Ahr), 54 Euro
Mayschoss Mönchberg Spätburgunder , Deutzerhof (Ahr), 52 Euro
Altenahr Eck Späturgunder GG, Deutzerhof (Ahr), 52 Euro
Klingenberg Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG, Weingut Stadt Klingenbergm Benedikt Baltes (Franken), 52 Euro
Caroline, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe), 50 Euro
Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein, Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz (Pfalz), 50 Euro
Oberrotweil Eichberg Baron Philipp, Freiherr von Gleichenstein (Baden), 50 Euro
Blauer Spätburgunder SJ, K.H. Johner (Baden), 50 Euro

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Paul Fuerst, Weingut Rudolf  Fuerst, in Mainz

A Few Comments

Overall, a bit more than 50 wines show up on the list, i.e. cost more than Euro 50. Mario Scheuermann noted that quite a number of wines are offered just below Euro 50, so they did not make it into the ranking. If you cut off the list at say Euro 40, the list would be considerably longer.

Interestingly, the red wine list is much longer than the dry white wine list. The former is comprised of 42 items, while the latter contains only 14 items. But as far as white wines are concerned there are all these expensive noble-sweet wines, which were excluded from the exercise. Still, the dominance of red wines is amazing on this list.

Probably coming as a surprise to many readers, Baden is the top performer, a wine region that outside of Germany is barely known as a wine producing region. The Mosel Region, well known over the world, is only represented with one producer (Weingut Markus Molitor). This of course, reflects the fact that the Mosel Valley is not a red wine producer, and when it comes to premium white Mosel wine, the fruity-sweet and noble-sweet styles dominate.

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Picture: Annette Schiller and Château LAFON-ROCHET’s winemaker Anaïs Maillet at B Too in Washington DC (Picture: Charlie Adler, TasteDC: Upcoming Food and Wine Events in DC )

Château LAFON-ROCHET’s winemaker Anaïs Maillet was in town (Washington DC) because of the Heart’s Delight events and owner Basile Tesseron asked Annette Schiller (ombiasy PR and WineTours) to organize a winemaker dinner.

See:
Announcement: Amazing Wine Maker Dinner Featuring Château LAFON-ROCHET on May 4th, 2014 in Washington DC, USA

Château LAFON-ROCHET is a 4ième Grand Cru Classé en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation. The visits of Château LAFON-ROCHET were highlights of the recent Bordeaux tours by ombiasy PR and WineTours.

For more on Château LAFON-ROCHET see:
A Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, with Winemaker and Owner Basile Tesseron (2013), France
An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux
Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Annette picked Bart Vandaele’s new restaurant on 14th Street, B Too, for the dinner. It turned out to be a great choice. With about 50 wine lovers attending, it was a sold-out event. The food was extraordinary: very creative and matching the gorgeous LAFON-ROCHET wines beautifully.

For more on Bart Vandaele, see:
A Feast with Jean Trimbach, Maison Trimbach in Alsace, and Chef Bart M. Vandaele at B Too in Washington DC, USA/France

Anaïs and Bart were the perfect hosts: Anaïs talked about LAFON-ROCHET and commented on each wine. She walked from table to table to meet everybody and to address questions that came up during the tasting. Bart made sure that the evening proceeded with clockwork precision.

Pictures: Château LAFON-ROCHET’s winemaker Anaïs Maillet and B Too Chef Bart Vandaele (Pictures: Charlie Adler, TasteDC: Upcoming Food and Wine Events in DC)

Annette was thrilled and honored to see eight out of the ten participants of last year’s Bordeaux tour at the dinner. Some even travelled long distance for this dinner to indulge in the memories of last September’s visit at LAFON-ROCHET and to reunite with their fellow Bordeaux wine lovers. The boisterousness at their table definitely added to the animated ambiance of the evening.

Pictures: The 2013 Bordeaux  by ombiasy Tour Group

Unfortunately I was out of the country and therefore not able to attend the dinner, but my friend Charlie Adler, TasteDC: Upcoming Food and Wine Events in DC, was so kind to take pictures. Annette also took some pictures.

Champagne Reception

Chicken egg / Caviar lolly pop / Beet salad sponge cake


Champagne Eric Rodez Grand Cru Ambonnay

Pictures: Champagne Reception (Pictures: Charlie Adler)

The Menu and the Wines

Since its opening a year ago B Too, sister restaurant of Belga Café on Capitol Hill, consistently receives high acclaims for its creative cuisine. Fresh, local, seasonal produce and continual creativity in the kitchen make every meal exceptional. The following menu was prepared by Chef Bart Vandaele to pair with the fruit and earth profiles of each wine:

Quail, endive, truffle, pear, peas
Château Les Pèlerins de LAFON-ROCHET 2009


Lamb head to tail, cauliflower flan, thyme jus, spring garden
Château LAFON-ROCHET 2006


Grilled short Rib, 3 carrots, provençale, sauce St. Estèphe
Château LAFON-ROCHET 2000


Foie gras, cacao, brioche, 20 y balsamico, cherry B-waffle
Château LAFON-ROCHET 1996


Visit Château LAFON-ROCHET with ombiasy PR and WineTours

This year again, ombiasy PR and WineTours is organizing a wine tour to Bordeaux, which will include a visit of and tasting at Château LAFON-ROCHET, with winemaker Anaïs Maillet and owners Michel (father) and Basile (son) Tesseron. For more information, see:

Upcoming in September 2014: Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasyPR– Bordeaux Immersion
or
www.ombiasypr.com

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Michel Tesseron at Château LAFON-ROCHET

Thanks

Thanks Bart and your team for a great event.


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