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An American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner with Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris at “Im Schiffchen” (2 Stars Michelin) in Duesseldorf, Germany

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman in Kentucky, USA, and Chef Jean-Claude Bourguil, Im Schiffchen, in Duesseldorf, Germany

Chris Morris is the Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman, including Woodford Reserve, the ultra-premium Bourbon Whiskey from Kentucky in the US. I accompanied him on a recent tour through Germany. One of the highlights was an American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner at “Im Schiffchen” in Duesseldorf, arranged by Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland.

Picture: Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland, and Annette Schiller, ombiasy PR and WineTours

See also:
American Whiskey Producers in Germany
Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland
18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany
With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany

Woodford Reserve

Woodford Reserve is the smallest of the about 20 distilleries in Kentucky. It is unique in using a triple distillation method. This employs three copper pot stills, built in Scotland. Woodford Reserve is operated by the Louisville-based Brown-Forman Distiller Corporation, which also owns Jack Daniels.

Woodford Reserve traces its origins back to 1797, when Elijah Pepper moved from Virginia to Versailles, where he distilled corn whiskey in a small distillery behind the county courthouse. In 1812 he moved his operation to the present site on Glenn's Creek. In 1941 Brown-Forman bought the distillery used it to produce their Early Times whiskey. By the 1960s Bourbon sales were falling and Brown- Forman sold the distillery to a local farmer. The buyer proceeded to make the car fuel substitute 'gasohol' in the distillery for a short period, but when that venture failed, the distillery lay silent for 23 years. Then, in 1994, with interest in 'small batch' Bourbon rising, Brown-Forman bought back the semi-derelict site and restored it to showpiece condition. In 2003, the present Woodford Reserve name was adopted for both the distillery and its whiskey.

Between 40 and 50 barrels a day are filled at Woodford Reserve distillery. The resultant whiskey is bottled at six to seven years of age. The mashbill comprises 72 per cent corn, 18 per cent rye and 12 per cent malted barley. Bourbon whiskey must be at least 51% corn, and many bourbons are as high as 80%. A bourbon mashbill with 18% Rye is fairly high and helps distinguish Woodford Reserve’s slightly spicy character.

In the Brown-Forman family, a lot of time and attention is paid to Jack Daniels, the whiskey from Tennessee, and for good reason: it’s one of the best selling spirits in America. Although Jack Daniels gets lots of attention, it’s Woodford Reserve that is the crown jewel in Brown-Forman portfolio. Run by master distiller Chris Morris, Woodford Reserve focuses on producing small batch premium bourbon.

Chris Morris

Chris Morris is seventh Master Distiller for Brown-Forman, since the company began in 1870. A Louisville native, Chris Morris has grown up around bourbon his whole life. His dad was a production manager, and his mother worked in the art department at Brown-Forman. His career with Brown-Forman began in 1976, as a trainee. Chris Morris holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Bellarmine College in Louisville, a master’s degree in liberal arts from Texas Christian University, and a master’s degree in marketing from Webster University.

At “Im Schiffchen” in Duesseldorf

Falstaff organized a whiskey tasting with dinner in the “Im Schiffchen” In Duesseldorf. First, Chris Morris led an entertaining and educational tasting with four very different American whiskeys. The aim of the tasting was to give a broad overview of the world of American whiskeys. Following the tasting, guests were treated to an excellent four-course menu. It was a terrific evening, which all who were present will remember as an extremely successful symbiosis of German and American delicacies.

American Whiskey Tasting

Knob Creek Rye Whiskey - Rye whiskey (based on rye) is the original version of American whiskeys, which was initially produced mainly in Maryland and Pennsylvania on the East Coast. Today, rye whiskey is experiencing a boom in the US, after it had almost disappeared. A rye whiskey must be based at least 50% on rye. Rye whiskeys tend to be spicier than Bourbon whiskeys.

Pictures: At the Tasting and Dinner

Woodford Reserve Bourbon Whiskey - This whiskey is produced in Kentucky, where most American whiskey distilleries are located. A Bourbon whiskey must be more than 50% based on corn. “Bourbon is the American interpretation of the whiskeys of our ancestors from Scotland, Ireland and Germany," said Chris Morris. Bourbon can be made anywhere in America. The best, however, come from Kentucky. Woodford Reserve is the premium bourbon whiskey from Brown Foreman.

Pictures: The Whiskeys

Jack Daniel's Single Barrel, Tennessee Whiskey - As the name suggests, this whiskey is produced in Tennessee . A Tennessee whiskey differs from a bourbon whiskey only in that he is additionally filtered over charcoal, making it softer than a bourbon. A “Single Barrel" comes from an individual barrel (and is not a blend of many barrels) .

Wild Turkey American Honey - This is a liqueur made from bourbon whiskey and honey - an example for how American whiskey producers have started to experiment.

Dinner


Prologue


Millefeuille de foie gras, thé matcha et confit de poires


Darne de loup de mer poellée, Consommé d’algues Komba et orge perlé


Coffre de Pintade de Bresse rôti aux arômes de café
Cuisse en Parmentier


Pêche blanche rôtie au four


Pistache et vanille Tahiti


Epilogue


Jean-Claude Bourguil

Jean-Claude Bourguil is one of the leading German Chefs. He was born (and grew up in France) and he moved to Duesseldorf in 1970. He quickly became one of the leading Chefs in the country, working in various top restaurants. In 1977, he took over the restaurant “Im Schiffchen” with his second wife Jeannine and made it within a short period of time one of the best known restaurants in Germany. The first Michelin star was awarded in 1979, the second in 1983 and the third in 1987. Since 2007, “Im Schiffchen” has two Michelin stars.

Pictures: Jean-Claude Bourguil

In 1986, “Im Schiffchen” moved to the second floor of the building, where it is until this day. The first floor has seen different restaurants, all run by Jean-Claude Bourguil, first the “Aalschokker” (which got one Michelin star in 1988), then the “Jean Claude (which gone one Michelin star in 2006) and since 2012 the “Enzo im Schiffchen”, which offers Italian cuisine.

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American Whiskey Producers in Germany

Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland

18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany

With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany

Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines (2013)

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Count Stefan von Neipperg, #2 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List 2013, in St. Emilion at Château Canon La Gaffelière in September 2013

Each year, Wine Spectator editors survey the wines reviewed over the previous 12 months and select the Top 100 wines, based “on quality, value, availability and excitement”. Here is this year’s list. The 3 numbers below each wine are the vintage, rating and price in US dollars. Whatever you think about the list, one thing is sure, it moves the market.

1 Cune Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva
2004 95 $63
2 Château Canon-La Gaffelière St.-Emilion
2010 96 $103

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Count Stefan von Neipperg  at Château Canon La Gaffelière in St. Emilion

See:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany
A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux 

Château Canon La Gaffelière was one of the stops at the Bordeaux Wine Tours in 2012 and 2013, organized by Annette Schiller, and will probably also be included in the upcoming Bordeaux Wine Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours in 2014:

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

3 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Evenstad Reserve
2010 95 $65
4 Hewitt Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford
2010 95 $92
5 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley
2010 95 $75
6 Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Barolo Monprivato
2008 95 $110
7 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
2010 97 $120
8 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2010 96 $120
9 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve
2010 96 $135
10 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley
2010 95 $135
11 Reynvaan Syrah Walla Walla Valley Stonessence
2010 98 $70
12 Turley Zinfandel Paso Robles Dusi Vineyard
2011 95 $42
13 Croft Vintage Port
2011 97 $93
14 Bedrock The Bedrock Heritage Sonoma Valley
2011 95 $37
15 Olivier Ravoire Gigondas
2011 94 $33
16 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe
2008 94 $42
17 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard
2010 94 $42
18 Poggerino Chianti Classico
2010 93 $25
19 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
2012 93 $33

Picture: Christian G.E.Schiller and Anthony Hamilton Russell at the Winery in South Africa

See:
Burgundy Wines in South Africa: Hamilton Russell Vineyards

20 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos
2007 95 $40
21 Le Macchiole Bolgheri
2011 93 $30
22 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva
2004 94 $35
23 Seghesio Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Cortina
2010 94 $38

Pictures: Christian G.E.Schiller with Pete Seghesio Jr. in Washington DC

See:
Zinfandel and Other "Italian" Wines of Seghesio Vineyards in California

24 Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali
2008 94 $55
25 Epoch Estate Blend Paderewski Vineyard Paso Robles
2010 93 $40
26 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses Velles Vinyes
2011 93 $40
27 Spring Valley Uriah Walla Walla Valley
2010 94 $50
28 Domaine de l'A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2010 93 $34
29 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja White Viña Gravonia Crianza
2003 93 $36
30 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder
2010 94 $48
31 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Carneros Hyde Vineyard
2010 95 $65
32 Bodegas Hidalgo Gitana Manzanilla Jerez La Gitana
NV 91 $19
33 Ravines Riesling Finger Lakes Dry
2012 91 $17
34 Bodegas Valdemar Rioja Inspiración Selección
2010 91 $20
35 Château du Retout Haut-Médoc
2010 91 $18
36 Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza Reserva
2011 92 $20
37 Quinta do Passadouro Douro
2010 91 $25
38 Mollydooker Two Left Feet McLaren Vale
2011 92 $25
39 Viña Herminia Rioja Excelsus
2009 93 $18
40 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec Cahors White Label
2010 92 $24
41 Red Heads Studio Shiraz McLaren Vale Barrel Monkeys
2011 91 $20
42 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Uco Valley Reserve
2011 91 $24
43 Godelia Godello Bierzo Selección
2010 91 $14
44 Viña Koyle Carmenère Colchagua Valley Royale
2010 91 $26
45 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac
2010 94 $58

Picture: Co-owner Jean Jacques Dubourdieu and Rachel Martin, Boxwood Winery in Virginia, in Washington DC

See:
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites

46 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Reserve
2010 94 $60

See:
American Wines with German Roots

47 Viña Santa Rita Triple C Maipo Valley
2008 93 $40
48 Greywacke Pinot Noir Marlborough
2011 93 $39
49 Failla Chardonnay Sonoma Coast
2011 92 $34
50 COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico
2010 92 $35
51 Charles Smith Riesling Columbia Valley Kung Fu Girl Evergreen2012 90 $12

52 Paringa Shiraz South Australia
2010 90 $11
53 Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Trocken Wachau Terrassen
2011 90 $13

Picture: Heinz Frischgruber, Domäne Wachau, at the 4th International Riesling Symposium in Seattle

See:
Austria at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA

54 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
2010 93 $45
55 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir Oregon
2011 90 $18
56 Robert Eymael (Mönchhof) Riesling QbA Mosel
2011 90 $17
57 L'Ecole No. 41 Syrah Columbia Valley
2010 91 $25
58 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
2010 91 $29
59 Donum Pinot Noir Carneros
2010 95 $72

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Anne Moller-Racke at the Donum Ranch in Carneros

See:
Visiting Anne Moller-Racke and her Donum Estate in California: Old World, Terroir-driven Winemaking in the New World

60 Astrolabe Pinot Noir Marlborough Province
2010 92 $28
61 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
2007 92 $38
62 Concha y Toro Syrah Buin Marqués de Casa Concha
2010 91 $22
63 Hourglass Merlot Napa Valley Blueline Vineyard
2010 94 $75
64 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Rockaway Single Vineyard
2010 94 $75
65 Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Mosel Graacher Himmelreich
2011 93 $42

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Katharina Pruem at Schloss Johannisberg, Germany

See:
JJ Pruem Goes Supermarket: Meeting Katharina Pruem and Tasting the Incredible JJ Pruem Wines at Wegmans

66 Macarico Aglianico del Vulture Macari'
2007 92 $25
67 Natacha Chave Crozes-Hermitage Aléofane
2010 92 $35
68 Chateau Ste. Michelle Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills Horse Heaven Vineyard
2012 90 $15
69 Boutari Naoussa
2009 90 $18
70 Marcassin Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard
2007 96 $125
71 Ashbourne Sandstone Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
2008 93 $25
72 Shafer Relentless Napa Valley
2010 95 $72
73 Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Mirador
2011 96 $125

See:
The Wines of Argentina's Cult Winemaker Achaval-Ferrer

74 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard
2011 93 $55
75 Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Arbois Pupillin Vieilles Vignes
2009 93 $49
76 M. Lapierre Morgon
2011 91 $30
77 Dehlinger Syrah Russian River Valley Goldridge
2010 92 $40
78 J.J. Vincent & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette
2011 90 $25
79 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Savoya Vineyard
2010 93 $55

Picture: Ken Wright and Christian G.E. Schiller in McLean, Virginia, USA

See:
Winetasting: The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon, US

80 Querciabella Maremma Toscana Mongrana
2010 90 $22

See.
The Ultra-premium Querciabella Wines and a Taste of Tuscany at Open Kitchen in Virginia, with Querciabella’s Giorgio Fragiacomo 

81 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines
2010 93 $47
82 Mamete Prevostini Valtellina Superiore Sassella
2009 91 $30
83 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection
2010 96 $130
84 Jolie-Pitt & Perrin Côtes de Provence Rosé Miraval
2012 90 $28
85 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Black Label
2010 91 $35
86 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa
2008 95 $96
87 Graham Tawny Port 20 Year Old
NV 93 $60
88 Pierre Paillard Brut Champagne
NV 92 $48
89 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Generations
2009 95 $100
90 Carlisle Zinfandel Napa Valley Hayne Vineyard
2011 93 $48
91 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva
2006 94 $75
92 Château Larcis Ducasse St.-Emilion
2010 94 $90
93 A.A. Badenhorst Family Swartland
2009 92 $42
94 Schiavenza Barolo Prapò
2009 94 $60
95 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Garnacha Campo de Borja
2010 92 $45
96 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli
2008 95 $120
97 Louis Roederer Brut Champagne
2006 94 $78
98 Château d'Yquem Bordeaux White Y
2011 94 $150
99 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St.-Aubin La Chatenière
2011 92 $48
100 Badia a Coltibuono Toscana Cancelli
2011 90 $10

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Owner Emanuela and Owner/Wine Maker Roberto Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono, Tuscany, Italy

See:
Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Here is the link to the Wine Spectator:
http://2013.top100.winespectator.com/list/

For my comments on earlier years' lists, see: 
The Top 10 Wines of the Wine Spectator 2012, USA
5 Rieslings on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List of 2010
German and Austrian Wines in the Wine Spectator Top 100 2010
Top 100 of the Wine Spectator 2009 include Wittmann and Loosen Rieslings
Germany’s Top Wines: Ratings of Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast (US) versus Eichelmann and Gault Millau (Germany)




Winemaker Dinner with Georg and Stefan Rumpf and with Cornelia Rumpf at Weingut Kruger- Rumpf in the Nahe Valley, Germany

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Pictures: Annette, Christian G.E. Schiller and Georg Rumpf - before the Dinner at Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim

During the month of November, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf always organizes two winemaker dinners at their lovely wine tavern, which is part of the Kruger-Rumpf estate, in Muenster-Sarmsheim (Nahe Valley). These are exceptional events, because of the wines, the food and the ambiance. When we are in Germany during that period, we always try to participate. This year (as well as in 2011), we made it.

For 2011, see:
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Stefan and Georg Rumpf jointly led the tasting, while Cornelia Rumpf led the kitchen team, with Chef D.J. Finkenbrink.

A few weeks before the winemaker dinner, a lunch plus tasting and vineyard walk with Georg Rumpf was one of the highlights of the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy.

Picture: With Georg Rumpf, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Vineyard during the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours

See:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Just a few days before the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasyPR and WineTours, we had met Stefan Rumpf at a Grand Riesling tasting in New York City.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy and Stefan Rumpf in New York City

See:
Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf

“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” said Georg Rumpf, when I visited Weingut Kruger-Rumpf last year and George showed me around. Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.

Pictures: In the Vineyard with Georg Rumpf

Today, the vineyard area totals 22 hectares and the annual production is 14.000 cases. Georg Rumpf has taken over the winemaking aspect of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, while his father is now more focusing on sales and general management.

The top sites are: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer (slate with sandy loam); Münsterer Pittersberg (slate); Münsterer Rheinberg (weathered quartzite and sandy loam); Binger Scharlachberg Rheinhessen (Rotliegend and porphyry).

Grape varieties: 65% Riesling, 10% each of Silvaner and Weissburgunder, 5% each of Chardonnay, Grauburgunder and Spätburgunder. In fact, Kruger-Rumpf was the first estate in the Nahe region to plant Chardonnay.

Weingut Kruger-Rumpf has 3 (of) 5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. It took 1st place in the DER FEINSCHMECKER Deutscher Riesling Cup 2008.

Weingut Krueger-Rumpf sells 70% of its production in Germany and exports the remaining 30%. Accordingly, “80% of the wines we produce are dry wines” said Georg “and 20% are fruity-sweet and noble-sweet wines.” In the US, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf is imported by Terry Theise.

Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf

One of the (many) assets of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf is the lovely country restaurant, which is part of the winery. It opened its doors in 1994. They call it a wine tavern, but for me it is a country restaurant. Whatever you call it, it is a lovely place, where you can have a great time with traditional, upscale cuisine and Kruger-Rumpf wines in the cozy atmosphere of a family-run country restaurant.

The rooms are decorated with appropriate accessories depending on the season. Painted stucco ceilings, historic tiled stoves, wooden floors, warm wall paint as well as furniture in country-house style provide for a comfortable living room atmosphere. The bright rooms are located on the ground floor of the manor house.

In addition, there is an idyllic garden. Especially during the summer, the garden restaurant of the winery provides you with the opportunity to enjoy the evening in a cozy al fresco atmosphere with a hearty meal and a good glass of wine. In fact, we did the tasting with Georg in the garden restaurant.

For special events, there also is a “Gewölberaum” for 90 people and a “Tafelraum” for 20 people. Finally, the courtyard provides space for up to 200 people.

Wining and Dining with Stefan, Georg and Cornelia Rumpf

This was a lovely and lively evening. We were about 100 wine enthusiasts. Stefan and Georg Rumpf guided us through the evening. Cornelia Rumpf orchestrated the evening from the kitchen.

The Menu


Reception

Toast mit Schinken und Kaese
Tartar vom Kalb

Winzersekt


Amuse Gueule


Dreierlei von der Gans


2012 Binger Riesling trocken

A young, fresh, lovely dry Riesling at the Ortswein-level.

2004 Binger Scharlachberg Spaetlese

Binger Scharlachberg (Rheinhessen) - 1 ha, only site located in Rheinhessen; the name of the site arose from a high ferrous oxide part within the stone which colors the soil red, Soil: quartzite alteration with slate, Grape variety: Riesling, Wine: fruity, very complex wine.

Attack of honeysuckle and tropical fruits on the nose, very little acidity on the palate, a senior citizen.


Kabeljaufilet auf Erbsenpuerre mit Chorizo Chips


2011 Kapellenberg Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

Münsterer Kapellenberg - 4 ha, all around Dautenpflänzer site; most diverse site of the winery, Soil: quartzite alteration with loess clay, Grape variety: Riesling, Pinot Blanc.

2012 Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewaechs

Münsterer Pittersberg - Großes Gewächs, 5.5 ha, largest site of the winery, Soil: Devon-slate, wine: Riesling with citric like aroma and well balanced acidity.

Two excellent ultra-premium dry wines. George told me that they are selling more and more of these wines in the US. Both fermented and aged in a large “Holzfass”. I find the Pittersberg a touch more elegant.


Rote Beet Sueppchen mit Kabskaus


2012 Kruger-Rumpf Weisser Burgunder

2012 Kruger-Rumpf Weisser Burgunder Silberkapsel

Stefan Rumpf said that the Bourgogne varieties now account for 1/3 of the Kruger-Rumpf output. The first one is a nice entry-level wine. The Silberkapsel was fermented and aged in a large “Holzfass”. It is rounder, smoother, and more creamy.


Kalbsfilet Café de Paris auf getrueffeltem Wirsingtoertchen


2012 Kruger-Rumpf Spaetburgunder

2012 Kruger-Rumpf Spaetburgunder M

Both wines were fermented and aged in barrique. The “M” is more concentrated, more powerful and longer in the finish. Both wines show very well that Germany has become a serious red wine producer.


Karamelisierter Ziegenkaese mit Gorgonzolacreme


2007 Muensterer Dautenpflaenzer Riesling Spaetlese

Münsterer Dautenpflänzer - Großes Gewächs, 1.7 ha, heart of Kapellenberg, highest-class site of the winery, Soil: quartzite alteration with loess clay, Grape variety: Riesling, Scheurebe, Wine: fruity, consistent wine.

2001 Muensterer Pittersberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

Two excellent fruity-sweet wines. The first one was made with Georg in the lead, while the second one was made with Stephan in the lead (and Georg not yet working at the winery). Both wines show very well. The 2007 is light golden, the 2001 dark yellow in the glass. Interestingly, the 2001 comes across as a much drier wine than the 2007, although it is an Auslese, because the wine has lost quite a bit of its sweetness as a result of aging.


Birne Helene


2011 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Beerenauslese

Dorsheimer Burgberg - 0.8 ha, particularly good microclimate through site in form of an amphitheatre, Soil: clay soil with slate and quartzite, Grape variety: Riesling, Wine: delicately balanced Riesling wine with discreet fruit aroma.

2011 Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe Auslese

Two young wines at the Beerenauslese and Auslese level with a lot of potential. Put away and try again in 10 years.


Kaffee, Tea, Konfekt


Cornelia Rumpf, Chef D.J. Finkenbrink and his Team

At the end of this outstanding evening, Cornelia Rumpf gave Chef D.J. Finkenbrink and his team the floor. 


schiller-wine: Related Postings

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The VDP - the Powerful Group of German Elite Winemakers - Refines its Classification System, Germany

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A Pinot Noir Star: Visiting August Kesseler and his Weingut August Kesseler in Assmannshausen, Germany

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Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany

Schiller’s Favorites at the 2013 Riesling and Co Tasting in New York City, USA

A Winery, a Foundation and a Museum: Dinastía Vivanco – Tasting, Tapas and a Tour with Santiago and Rafael Vivanco, Rioja, Spain

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Pictures:  Christian G.E. Schiller with Santiago and Rafael Vivanco at Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco in Briones, La Rioja, Spain.

I participated in the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in La Rioja in 2013. Formerly called European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC), it was the sixth such annual event. Previous conferences took place in Spain, Portugal, Austria, Italy and Turkey. In fact, the first conference took place in La Rioja … at Dinastía Vivanco. So, it did not come as a surprise, when the participants of the 2013 DWCC got an invitation for a get-together at Dinastía Vivanco on the day before the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference.

See:
The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja, Spain  
Rioja, Portugal, Austria, Italy, Turkey …. Rioja – EWBC 2013 Back in Spain
 
Dinastía Vivanco

Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco is a winery in Briones, La Rioja, established by the Vivanco family. It also includes the Museum of the Culture of Wine and the Dinastía Vivanco Foundation. This triumvirate was built by Pedro Vivanco, one of Spain’s first enologists and the third generation of Vivancos in the wine business. It is now run by Pedro Vivanco’s sons, Santiago and Rafael Vivanco.

Dinastía Vivanco Foundation

The Dinastía Vivanco Foundation is a foundation set up with the objective of researching and sharing the culture of wine around the world. One of the foundation’s most recent acquisitions, for example, is a book in Latin, which was printed in 1491 in Venice; the book refers to wine as beneficial to the body if consumed in moderation.

Dinastía Vivanco Museum

The Dinastía Vivanco Museum is a fascinating wine museum, showcasing the Vivanco family's impressive personal collection. It is one of the best in the world, if not the best. Pedro Vivanco started the collection and his sons are continuing it. Part of it is Baccus Garden, where the Vivanco family has gathered together over 200 varieties of grapes to form one of the most important private ampelographic collections in the world.

Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco

The focal point of course is the Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco. It is in in Briones, in the foothills of the Cantabrian mountain range and on the banks of the River Ebro. The majority of the 300 hectares of vineyards that the Vivanco family own are in, or around, the municipalities of Briones and Haro in Rioja Alta.

Pictures: The Baccus Garden

The winery - surrounded by vineyards - is impressive, boasting an underground, naturally cooled aging cellar that houses 3500 barrels. The majority of the vineyards are planted with Tempranillo, the main grape of Rioja. Other red grapes include Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. The majority of the white grapes that are grown are Viura and Malvasia.

Family History

The origins of the winemaking tradition of the Vivanco family date back to 1915, to the village of Alberite, La Rioja, where Pedro Vivanco started to make wine for family use from his vineyards. In 1940 he bought a small bodega in Alberite.

Pedro Vivanco’s son, Santiago, started another bodega in the heart of the old quarter of Logroño, where they bottled and sold wine produced in the village. In 1946, Pedro Vivanco was born. He is the pivotal figure in the transformation of the Vivanco family business to what it is today.

As a teenager in the early 1960s, Pedro Vivanco started delivering his family's wine by bicycle, then rose to become a major but anonymous producer for well-known Rioja brands. He received his studies at the Requena School of Enology. In 1985, he bought land in Briones. It was there, in 1990, that he started his most ambitious project to date: Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco, with the Dinastía Vivanco Museum.

Pedro Vivanco has two children: Santiago and Rafael. They represent the fourth generation of this winemaking family. Santiago Vivanco was born in Logroño in 1973. He has a Degree in Law and a Master’s in Business Management. Santiago manages the Dinastía Vivanco Foundation and the Dinastía Vivanco Museum. Rafael Vivanco was born in Logroño in 1975. An agronomy engineer and with a Master’s degree in business studies, he later also graduated from the Enology Faculty in Bordeaux. Rafael heads the viticulture and winemaking.

Tasting Tapas

The afternoon started with a fabulous Tapas tasting reception. We were introduced to an amazing selection of tapas.

Pictures: Tasting Tapas prepared by Chef Isidro Arribas

Smoked Scallop Slices with Malvasia Jelly


Pink/Rose Octopus


Foie marinated in the Tannins of 4 Varietals and Wine Caviar


The Potato and La Rioja


Peppers Stuffed with Cod and Mushrooms


Courgette Stuffed with Iberian Pork Shoulder


Puff pastry horn filled with Black Pudding and Cameros Cheese


Caramelised Bread Pudding and Cameros Cheese


Wines: Vivanco Viura-Malvasia-Tempranillo blanco 2012 and Dinastia Vivanco Crianza 2009


Baccus Garden Tour

We then split into 2 groups. My group started with a Baccus Garden tour.

Pictures: With Rafael Vivanco in the Bacchus Garden

Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco

We then toured the amazing winery. “The painstaking choice of grapes from each vineyard, controlling the individual fermentation and long maceration, applying the most up-to-date winemaking technology, means having the knowledge of an art passed down through generations and which is reflected in a special love of the wine” said Rafael Vivanco on the tour.

Pictures: Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco

Museum Tour and Wine Tasting

Finally, we toured the Museum. In each of the sections, Santiago Vivanco had put a table, were we could taste wines. We had the opportunity to go through the whole Dinastía Vivanco portfolio, with the 3 groups, Vivanco, Dinastía Vivanco and Colección Vivanco

Vivanco

Vivanco Viura-Malvasia-Tempranillo blanco 2012

60% Viura, 20% Malvasia and 20% Tempranillo blanco. Tempranillo blanco is a minority white grape variety from a natural mutation of the red Tempranillo tinto. Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco is the pioneer in using this grape.

A clear and bright wine with a pale lemon color with slight green hints indicating its youthfulness. Intense and elegant aromas of green apple, citrus fruits, pineapple and some floral hints that round out the varietal expression. The palate has the same bright fruit flavors as the nose, balanced with the acidity resulting in a very pleasant, fresh finish.


Vivanco Tempranillo-Garnacha rosé 2012

80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha

This wine is clear and bright, with a lively strawberry pink with hints of redcurrant. On the nose this offers strawberry, raspberry and cherry fruit notes, rose petals and a very slight hint of liquorice. On the palate this wine is fresh and rewarding, with a balance of fruit, acidity, alcohol and a generous, fruity finish.

Dinastía Vivanco

Dinastía Vivanco Crianza 2009

100% Tempranillo

Intense cherry red, with a narrow bright violet rim, this wine has lots of mature red fruit aromas of cherry and strawberry with red fruits and a well-integrated, light "toastiness" and medium body. Long and elegant finish.


Dinastía Vivanco Reserva 2007

90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano

Dark cherry red color with touches of brick red reminding us of its time spent ageing in barrel. Aromas of mature black and red fruit, as well as sweet creamy, balsamic and toffee notes. Good balance between the ageing nuances lent by extended maturation, and the ubiquitous fruit aromas. Good intensity and balance, soft, round tannins, and a long finish with hints of toast and liquorice.


Colección Vivanco

We were offered 6 wines from Colección Vivanco:

Parcelas de Maturana Tinta 2010

Parcelas de Garnacha 2010

Deep red cherry color, with a bright violet rim. Good varietal aromas of raspberry and other red fruit as well as toasted, jammy, minty and herbal notes. There is good acidity which gives it great freshness despite the depth of fruit favors, and a long finish.


Parcelas de Graciano 2008

Deep, almost opaque violet-purple color, with a bright garnet rim that clings to the glass. Intense and complex aromas of mulberry and other black fruits, with a sweet depth of cocoa and chocolate from the wood and some herbal, minty notes as well as violet, floral aromas. Well balanced in the mouth with lots of fruit, soft tannins and a long, persistent finish.

Parcelas de Mazuelo 2010


4 Varietales: Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Mazuelo 2010

Complex aromas of ripe red and black fruit, foral notes, graphite, toffee, chocolate, and a well-integrated oak infuence. The taste is fresh, intense and expressive, with soft tannins and a long finish with lots of smooth, ripe fruit.

Dolce de Inview 4 Varietales: Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Mazuelo 2011


schiller-wine: Related Posting (DWCC)

The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja

Rioja, Portugal, Austria, Italy, Turkey …. Rioja – EWBC 2013 Back in Spain

Visiting a Stunning Winery: Bodegas Baigorri in Rioja, Spain

schiller-wine: Related Posting (Spain)

Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Winemaker Dinner at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA/Spain

Alejandro Luna Beberide from Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide in Spain at the Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC

The Wines of Bodegas Epifanio Rivera in Spain

Welcoming Winemaker Ruben Saenz Lopez and his Bodegas San Prudencio Wines from Rioja in Spain to Washington DC

Meeting Didier Soto and Tasting His Biodynamic Mas Estela Wines from Catalonia

Meeting Up-and-coming Winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques from the Duoro Area in Portugal at Screwtop Winebar in Clarendon, Virginia

Meeting Winemaker Yolanda Viadero from Valduero Vineyards in Ribera del Duero and in Toro, Spain, and Tasting Her Excellent Wines

Dinner with Spanish Winemaker Antonio Jose Bleda Jimenez, Bodegas Bleda, at Taberna del Alabardero in Washington DC, USA


Pure Chablis – A tête-à-tête Dinner in Washington DC at Marcel’s with Chablis Wine Board President and Winemaker Jean-François Bordet, Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, USA/France

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Pictures: Pure Chablis at Marcel's in Washington DC with Sommelier Moez Ben Achour, Christian G.E. Schiller, Jean-François Bordet and Chef Paul Stearman

Jean-François Bordet owns and runs Domaine Séguinot-Bordet, a Chablis estate. Until the end of the year, he also has the job of President of the Chablis Wine Board, which includes representing the wines of Chablis on marketing tours around the world. In that function, Jean-François Bordet visited LA and Washington DC in November 2013, with Françoise Roure, Marketing and Communication Manager of the Bureau Interprofessional des Vins de Bourgogne. Several events took place in Washington DC. I was privileged to be able to attend a tête-à-tête Chablis Dinner in Washington DC at Chef Robert Wiedmaier’s Marcel’s. Other wine writers around the table included David White, Frank Morgan and Dave McIntyre. We tasted 6 Chablis from different producers, ranging from a Chablis AOC to 2 Chablis Grands Crus. Jean-François Bordet and Françoise Roure shared their passion and knowledge about the rich history of the region and expertly guide us through the pairing of each course.

Chablis

Chablis is part of the Bourgogne wine region, one of the most famous wine regions in the world, but wines from Chablis are usually referred to by their own name. Chablis is up in the north, a separate wine region. Some way south of Chablis is the Côte d'Or, where Burgundy's most famous wines originate. All Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy (except for Chablis Grand Cru) are here. The Côte d'Or is split into two parts: the Côte de Nuits in the north and the Côte de Beaune in the south. The wine-growing area is just 40 kilometers long, and in most places less than 2 kilometers wide; the area is made up of tiny villages. Further south is the Côte Chalonnaise, where a mix of mostly red and white wines are produced. Below the Côte Chalonnaise is the Mâconnais region, known for producing easy-drinking and more affordable white wine. Further south again is the Beaujolais region. The Bourgogne (including Chablis but excluding Beaujolais) covers a total of 28,000 hectares.

Pictures: Jean-François Bordet

Burgundy is the most terroir-oriented region in France. Immense attention is paid to the area of origin, as opposed to Bordeaux, where classifications are producer-driven and awarded to individual chateaux. In Burgungy, a specific vineyard or region will bear a given classification, regardless of the wine producer.

The main levels in the Chablis classifications, in descending order of quality, are:

(1) At the top of the classification are the Grand Cru vineyards, which are all located on a single hillside near the town of Chablis. The Grand Cru vineyards cover a 106 hectare area, made up of 7 “Climats” (Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudersir) and account for around 3% of Chablis’ production.

(2) Second in quality are the Premier Cru vineyards, covering an area of 750 hectares, gathered together into 40 “Climats”.

(3) Next is the generic AOC Chablis, the largest appellation.

(4) At the lowest end of the classification is Petit Chablis, which comprises the outlying land.

Chablis wines are almost all Chardonnay, bone-dry and fresh, with good acidity. Compared with the whites from the rest of Burgundy, Chablis tends to have much less influence of oak. Typically, Chablis is completely unoaked, vinified in stainless steel tanks, although many Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines receive some maturation in oak barrels. But aging time in the barrel and the share of new wood tends to be much smaller than for white wines of the Cote d’Or.

Jean-François Bordet

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet dates from 1590, having been passed down through the generations until now, with Jean-François Bordet in control, who took over from his grandfather. Jean-Francois Bordet has established his own name after an apprenticeship with his grandfather. Whereas most of his vineyards are Petit Chablis or Chablis, he is lucky enough to own a slice of Fourchaume, felt by many to be the finest of the Premier Cru vineyards.

Pictures: Jean-François Bordet

The wines are made in a modern winery, with vinification in stainless steel vats to preserve freshness. Jean-François places particular emphasis on obtaining the best fruit possible, through careful pruning, debudding and harvesting. Jean-François Bordet practices cool fermentation and allows his wines to mature for 3-5 months on their lees; this maximizes the contact and promotes a luscious style to the wines.

Jean-François Bordet makes 10,000 cases of wine.

Marcel’s

Washingtonian: “Robert Wiedmaier’s dark-lit Foggy Bottom restaurant—the fanciest in his collection of Belgian-inspired eateries—is notorious for above-and-beyond service (there’s a complimentary car service to and from the Kennedy Center), but throwback formalities are a sideshow that shouldn’t distract from the main event: the creations that emerge from the semi-open kitchen.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Chef Robert Wiedmaier at Brasserie Beck

From deeply layered vegetable soups such as asparagus or wild mushroom to an alluring gâteau of chocolate and passionfruit, the well-paced dishes are exquisitely delicious—so much so that while they can all be ordered à la carte, we encourage you to go all out on a tasting menu of four to seven courses. The helpful staffers are refreshingly frank—ask them to point you to the night’s best (and worst) dishes.”

Pictures: Pure Chablis at Marcel's in Washington DC -Jean-François Bordet with Sommelier Moez Ben Achour and Chef Paul Stearman

The Dinner

The dinner was prepared by Chef Paul Stearman, who has led the Marcel’s team for a number of years. Here is what he prepared:

Beet and Goat Cheese Napoleon


Gratin of Wianno Oysters


Diver Scallop Tartine


Filet of Turbot, Wild Mushroom Risotto


Pheasant Breast


Cheese


The Wines Served

Todd M. Godbout from the Wine Compass Blog has already issued excellent tasting notes, which I am re-issuing here: Learning about Chablis - the Wine and Region - with Pure Chablis

Note that Todd M. Godbout attended a different event; while the food was different, the same wines were served.

La Chablisienne
Chablis
La Piereleé 2011

Domaine Séguinot-Bordet
Chablis Premier Cru
Fourchaume 2010

Simonnet-Febvre
Chablis Premier Cru
Vaillons 2010


Domaine Louis Moreau
Chablis Premier Cru
Les Fourneaux 2010

Domaine Servin
Chablis Grand Cru
Blanchot 2011

Domaine Christian Moreau
Chablis Grand Cru
Vaudésir 2009


Todd M. Godbout: “We started with the La Chablisienne Chablis La Pierrelée 2011 ($23). La Chablisienne is an old cooperative, started in 1923, and accounts for one quarter of the region's wine production (10 million bottles). This wine is a cuvée sourced from grapes grown throughout the region fermented in stainless steel and aged on lees in tank. The result is a light wine - not powerful - but displaying finesse with a lychee aroma, a green apple flavor and fresh acidity finish.

The next was Mr. Bordet's wine, the Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Premier Cru Fourchume 2010 ($35). The domaine is located on the right bank, far north corner of Chablis around the hamlet of Maligny. Jean-François is the 13th generation winemaker and this is the oldest continually operating winery in Chablis - that's 1590 for those counting. Now that's some history. Interestingly, he practiced winemaking in Michigan - learning about Riesling and Gewurtztraminer. When he returned home in 1998, he became the youngest winemaker in Chablis accompanied by his grandfather who was the oldest. The Premier Cru Fourchume is at once elegant and intense with a fresh lychee aroma, an iodine earthy mid, and a long refreshing finish. This is one quality wine - very nice.

The Premier Crus kept coming with the Simonnet Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2010 ($30) and the Louis Moreau Chablis Premier Cru Les Fourneaux 2009 ($27). The second seemed a bigger wine, more structure with vanilla notes, but both displayed the fresh acidic finish. Two notes, the Simonnet Febvre is a left bank wine whereas the Louis Moreau is a right bank produced by a two hundred year old domaine.

We finished the afternoon with a Grand Cru - the Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2011 ($45). There are only seven Grands Cru producers in Chablis and the Domaine Servin right bank vines face east-west - giving more morning sun exposure. The result is more fruit (this is also a rare unoaked Grand Cru), less minerality, and even less acidity - as compared to the others. Despite the un-Chablis style - this wine is impressive. Probably my second favorite behind the Séguinot-Bordet. Cheers to Chablis and a hearty thanks to Pure Chablis.”

Bye-bye

Thanks Jean-François Bordet, Sommelier Moez Ben Achour and Chef Paul Stearman for a great evening with wines of Chablis. 

Pictures: Pure Chablis at Marcel's in Washington DC with Sommelier Moez Ben Achour, Christian G.E. Schiller, Jean-François Bordet and Chef Paul Stearman

schiller-Wine: Related Postings

Meeting Matthieu Mangenot, Managing Director of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, France and Tasting His Wines

Caroline Parent-Gros Presented the Wines of Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne at Chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range in Washington DC

The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA

The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh

Sylvain Bzikot's Puligny Montrachet, Bourgogne, France

Puligny Montrachet Winemaker Dinner with Sylvain Bzikot, Domaine Bzikot Pere et Fils, at Jacques Imperato’s Mediterannee Restaurant in Northern Virginia, USA

Meeting Gregoire Pissot – the Winemaker at Cave de Lugny in the Maconnais– in Washington DC, USA/France

Dinner at Restaurant Chateau de la Barge in Creches sur Saone in Burgundy, France

Tablas Creek Wines from Paso Robles and Belgian Food at Brasserie Beck with Tablas Greek GM Jason Haas and Chef Robert Wiedmaier in Washington DC, USA



The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja, Spain

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Pictures: Ryan and Gabriella Opaz and Robert McIntosh at the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño

The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) took place in Logroño (Spain) from Friday, October 25 to Sunday, October 27, 2013. Formerly called European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC), it was the sixth such annual event. Previous conferences took place in Spain, Portugal, Austria, Italy and Turkey.

The DWCC is a three-day event that provides a platform for the global wine community to address today's online communications opportunities. The theme of the 2013 conference was “flavor”. The conference was attended by 250 participants from more than 30 countries.

Pictures: The Tapas Bars of Logroño

Conference Highlights and Content

As in previous years, the 2013 conference was a highly entertaining and educational mix of workshops, lectures, tastings and winery visits with lunches/dinners.

There were 30 or so parallel workshops, lectures and tastings on Friday and Saturday, in 3 different meeting rooms: Panos Kakaviatos led an interesting discussion about the impact of climate change on wine making. Doug Frost introduced us to the 3 subregions of Rioja. The “Aged Rioja Tasting” was extremely popular and the limited number of seats were quickly taken. Tyler Coleman and others tried to provide an answer to the question: “What is wine communication and who are the wine communicators in 2013”. David White and others addressed the issue of “Challenges of a Global Brand in Communicating Socially”. Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz led a tasting of “Native Iberian Varieties”.

Pictures: DWCC 2013 Sessions

On both days, there were walk-around tastings in the lobby from 9 am to 3 pm. On the first day, it was all Rioja producers. On the second day, there were also other, including Portuguese, producers.

Pictures: Walk-Around Tastings in the Lobby

The first day ended with a winery visit and dinner at the winery. We were taken by bus to 6 different wineries. I had the pleasure to visit Bodegas Baigorri. It was an extraordinary evening.

Pictures: At Bodegas Baigorri

A gala dinner in Laguardia was the highlight of the second day.

Pictures: At the Gala Dinner in Laguardia

The third day was comprised of excursions to wineries. You could choose between different tours. My group visited Bodegas Bilbainas in Haro and Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia, where we also had lunch.
Pictures: At Bodegas Bilbainas

Pictures: At Bodegas Palacio

Pre- and Post Conference Activities

The 3 conference days were preceded by the legendary “Bring Your Own Bottle Party” on the evening and an optional visit of and lunch at Bodegas Dynastia Vivanco in Briones during the day before the conference (on Thursday).

Pictures: At Bodegas Dynastia Vivanco in Briones

Pictures: At Bring-Your-Own-Bottle Party

Finally, before and after the DWCC 2013 there were a number of press trips, for which you could sign up. My wife Annette Schiller and I participated in a fascinating 3 day pre-conference trip to Porto, the Vino Verde Region and the Douro Valley.

Pictures: Pre-conference Press Trip to Porto, the Vino Verde Region and the Douro Valley

Conference Sponsors and Organizers

The 2013 conference was sponsored by the Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja, and organized by Ryan and Gabriella Opaz and Robert McIntosh of social media company Vrazon in partnership with Catavino.net, a site dedicated to Iberian food and wine culture.

Christian Schiller and DWCC/EWBC

This was be my third DWCC/EWBC; I participated in the 2010 conference in Vienna in Austria and in the 2011 conference in Brescia in Italy. I enjoyed these conferences very much.

Here are my postings on schiller-wine.

Austria

Picture: Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Burgenland, Austria in Restaurant Buergerhaus in Rust - see more: Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

The 2010 European Wine Bloggers Conference (EWBC) in Vienna

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Willi Klinger Leads Tasting of Austria's Undiscovered Stars at EWBC 2010 in Vienna

Picking and Drinking Gruener Veltliner with Ewald Gruber sen. and jun., Weingut Gruber, Weinviertel, Austria

Lunch with Silvia Prieler, Weingut Prieler, Schuetzen am Gebirge, Austria

Chef Martin Weiler Suggests Amazing Food to Go With Gruener Veltliner

Producing Wines in Austria and Hungary - Franz and Franz Reinhard Weninger

With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine

Wine and Food from Burgenland at Wachter-Wieslers Ratschen, Deutsch-Schuetzen, Austria - with Tom and Christoph Wachter and Julia Sevenich

Meeting “John” Nittnaus from Gols, Burgenland, Austria

Guerilla Wine Tasting with Gottfried Lamprecht from Herrenhof in Vienna, Austria

Internet Guru and Medical Doctor go Wine: Weingut StephanO in Suedburgenland

Italy

Picture: Dinner with Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti at Badia a Coltibuono - for more see: Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Blogging, Wining and Dining at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) October 2011 in Brescia, Italy – A Tour D’ Horizont

The Up and Coming Premium Sparklers of Franciacorta (#EWBC), Italy

The Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta, Italy

The 1 Star Michelin Food of Chef Stefano Cerveni from the due colombe Ristorante and the Premium Sparklers of il Mosnel, Franciacorta - Wining and Dining at il Mosnel, Italy

An Apero at Zucca in Galleria in Milano, Italy

Wining, Dining and Blogging in Chianti Classico (#EWBC), Tuscany, Italy

Dining and Wining where the Royals Eat: Dario Cecchini’s Solo Cicca Restaurant in Panzano– the Butcher of Chianti Classico

Meeting Wine Maker Paolo Cianferoni at his Caparsa Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Wining and Dining at Badia a Coltibuono in Tuscany with Wine Makers and Owners Roberto and Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, Italy

Extraordinary Art and Wines at Castello di Ama in Chianti Classico, Italy

Tasting Wines where Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa was Born – With Wine Maker and General Manager Francesco Nardi at Vignamaggio Estate in Chianti Classico, Italy

Visiting Barone Francesco Ricasoli and his Castello di Brolio in Chianti Classico, Italy

Wining and Blogging in the Soave Region, Italy

Christian G.E. Schiller’s Views on Soave– a Video Interview

Visiting Balestri Valda in Soave, Italy

Meeting the Winemakers of the Soavecru Association in the Palazzo Vescovile in Monteforte d’Alpone, Soave, Italy

A Visit of Cantina di Soave, Soave, Italy

Meeting American Wine Journalist/Writer George M. Taber (who was Present at the 1976 Judgment of Paris Tasting), USA

How Recioto di Soave - a Dessert Wine - is Made: In Le Sponde Room of the Coffele Winery in Soave, Italy

Annette Schiller and Ombiasy Wine Tours

Picture: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours and Henri Lurton, Château Brane Cantenac 2ème Cru Classé, Bordeaux

This time, I was joined by my wife Annette Schiller, founder and owner of Ombiasy Wine Tours.

See more:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
American Whiskey Producers in Germany


Dirk Wuertz Presented the 2012 Grosses Gewaechs Wines of Weingut Balthasar Ress, Germany

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Dirk Wuertz

Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim has always had a strong reputation in the premium segment of German wine, but was not very present in the ultra-premium dry segment – the Grosses Gewaechs wines. This changed, when Dirk Wuertz – wine maker, wine blogger and wine TV journalist – joined Weingut Balthasar Ress in 2009, first as winemaker and then as General Manager. Together with owner Christian Ress and senior boss Stefan Ress, he is pushing Ress wines to new hights. A few weeks ago, Weingut Ress released the 2012 Grosses Gewaechs wines. At this occasion, Weingut Balthasar Ress had invited to the Ress Bistro in Wiesbaden, where Dirk Wuertz poured, presented and commented on four 2012 Grosses Gewaechs Rieslings.

Picture: Weingut Balthasar Ress Weinbar und Vinothek

Weingut Balthasar Ress

Founded in 1870 by Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim in the Rheingau, Weingut Balthasar Ress has developed into one of the leading wine estates of the Rheingau region and became a global player in the wine trade. With 46 hectares under vine it is also one of the larger estates in the Rheingau. Riesling accounts for 90 % of the grapes in the Balthasar Ress vineyards. It is a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers.

Stefan Ress – now senior boss - owned and run Weingut Balthasar Ress for many years. In 2010, his son Christian Ress took over and Dirk Wuertz became the new Managing Director.

Picture: Senior Boss Stefan Ress Checking in

Dirk Wuertz

Dirk Wuertz is a winemaker from the Rheinhessen region Germany. He is not only a successful winemaker, but also a leader in terms of social media in the German wine industry. Dirk is the most popular wine blogger in Germany. He has his own internet TV show “100 Grad Oechsle”. This is a very professionally made one- hour talk show with prominent guests from the wine industry. And he is the front man of a video series on wine produced by the Stern, a leading German weekly.

Picture: Dirk Wuertz

More on Dirk Wuertz:

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany
3. German Twitter Wine Awards – German Pinot Noir Below Euro 20
In the Glass: Wuertz 2007 Rheinhessen trocken at Ten Bells in the Lower East Side in Manhattan
Dirk Wuertz and His Bag-in-a-box Rieslings

The New VDP Classification

Dirk started the evening by briefly providing an overview about recent changes in the way Germany is classifying its wines.

Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further. The latest modifications are those that came into effect with the vintage of 2012.

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, and Dirk Wuertz

Following their colleagues in the Bourgogne, the terroir principle has taken center stage in the VDP classification. Effective with the 2012 harvest, the VDP classification has the following 4 quality layers (In brackets, the equivalent quality classes in the classification system of the Bourgogne):

• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)VDP Classification

Until recently, the VDP winemakers in the Rheingau did not go along with their VDP colleagues in other regions, but they went along with their non-VDP colleagues in the Rheingau: They called their best dry wines Erstes Gewaechs. Thus, until recently, the top dry wines of VDP members in the Rheingau were called Erstes Gewaeachs, while the rest of the VDP members in the other wine regions called their top dry wines Grosses Gewaechs. This changed with the 2012 vintage. The VDP winemakers from the Rheingau switched fronts and decided to call their best dry wines Grosses Gewaechs. So, there is now uniformity on the VDP front.

More on the new VDP classification:
Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

The Grosses Gewaechs Wines Dirk Wuertz Poured

Dirk Wuertz poured 4 wines.

Picture: The Wines

2012 Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling GG

The Nussbrunnen vineyard in Hattenheim has a south-southeast exposure. The name derives from a "Brunnen," or spring, that was once surrounded by nut trees. The source of the spring is still visible today. It lies well protected from cold northerly winds on the lower reaches of the slope, adjacent to the site Wisselbrunnen.

Dirk Wuertz: “My Prince Charming. Stopped during fermentation at 7 grams remaining sugar. An opulent wine. Needs many years to fully develop.”

Pale lemon yellow in the glass, notes of pears on the nose, creamy on the palate, long finish.

Pictures: In the Weingut Balthasar Ress Weinbank with Stefan Ress during the 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy

More on wine tours by ombiasy:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
American Whiskey Producers in Germany 

2012 Balthasar Ress Ruedesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling GG

Berg Rottland is a steep site with a slope of 33% in Ruedesheim, a few miles west of Hattenheim.

Dirk Wuertz: “A mystical vineyard, just behind the railway station in Ruedesheim. 40 years old vines. The 2012 is a classic Rheingau Riesling. Fresh and fruity with low acidity. 2 to 3 gram remaining sugar.”

Pale lemon yellow in the glass, notes of apples and minerals on the nose, fruity on the palate, refreshing finish.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Christian Ress and Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, at Weingut Balthasar Ress in Hattenheim

2012 Balthasar Ress Ruedesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling GG

With an inclination of 70%, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg is the steepest vineyard in the Rheingau. Its name derives from the Ehrenfels castle ruins. The vineyards on the "Rüdesheimer Berg" - the steep slopes adjacent to Rüdesheim - particularly the protected Schlossberg site, benefit from intense solar radiation. The slate and Taunus quartzite soils absorb heat during the day and gently release it at night.

Dirk Wuertz: “A very mineral wine. Completely dry. Low acidity. The Riesling grape has moved to the backburner. I am trying to bring the terroir into the glass. The grape is just the medium to do it.”

Pale lemon yellow in the glass, pineapple and yeasty notes on the nose, elegant on the palate, intense finish.

Pictures: During the Presentation of the 2013 Schlossgut Diel Releases Earlier on the Same Day in the Nahe Valley

See:
Caroline and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe Valley), Presented their New Wines (Vintage 2012), Germany

2012 Balthasar Ress Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling GG

The vineyard lies 100 meters above sea level and faces south-southwest, an optimal position for absorbing solar radiation. Wisselbrunnen's light, tertiary marl soils have a good water balance so that even in very dry years, grapes can ripen very well.

Dirk Wuertz: “First ultra-premium dry wine from this vineyard. We used to make fruity sweet and noble sweet wines. For me the most interesting of the 4 wines. Very mineral.”

Pale lemon yellow in the glass, mineral notes on the nose, lively on the palate, long finish.

schiller-wine - Related Postings

Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany

VDP.Grosses Gewaechs, Erstes Gewaechs, Spaetlese/Auslese Trocken, … Labeling Dry Ultra-Premium Wines in Germany

Steffen Christmann (Weingut A. Christmann) and Wilhelm Weil (Weingut Robert Weil) Presented the New Wine Classification of the VDP, Germany

German Spaetlese Wines Can Come in Different Versions. I Have Counted Five.

In the Glass: Wuertz 2007 Rheinhessen trocken at Ten Bells in the Lower East Side in Manhattan

Dirk Wuertz and His Bag-in-a-box Rieslings

Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany

Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, at the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany

Caroline and Armin Diel, Schlossgut Diel (Nahe Valley), Presented their New Wines (Vintage 2012), Germany

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

American Whiskey Producers in Germany

18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Philip E. Prichard and Mrs. Prichard, Prichards' Distillery, Tennessee,at the Bar Convent 2013 in Berlin

18 US small and large distillers came to Berlin, to showcase American whiskeys and other products in one of Europe’s most important markets. The initiative, supported by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, featured a press conference and tasting for German media at the Hilton Hotel in Berlin as well as an American Spirits Pavilion and seminar at the Bar Convent Berlin on October 8 and 9. The press conference and tasting had to be moved on short notice from the US Embassy to a hotel and Ambassador John B. Emerson could not host the event, as a result of the government shutdown in America.

Pictures: Press Conference and Walk-around Tasting at the Hilton Hotel

Among the participating producers in the German market promotion were Brown-Forman (Jack Daniel’s, Woodford Reserve), Beam (Maker’s Mark, Jim Beam), Diageo (Bulleit Bourbon) and Campari USA (Wild Turkey) as well as many small distillers from across the US, including Catskill Distilling Company (NY), Cane Land Distilling Company (LA), Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. (VA), Cleveland Whiskey (OH), Corsair Artisan Distillery (TN), Death’s Door Spirits (WI), Few Spirits (IL), Garrison Brothers Distillery (TX), Georgetown Trading Co. (DC), House Spirits Distillery.

Pictures: At the Berlin Bar Convent 2013

“The market for US distilled spirits, particularly whiskeys, has been very strong in Germany, and with some education, we feel that growth can continue and even accelerate,” said Distilled Spirits Council Senior Vice President Frank Coleman at the press conference. “Further, it is worth noting Germany is a cultural opinion leader and trendsetter for the many emerging markets to the East,” he added, “thus providing a beneficial echo effect for our industry marketing efforts here.”

Pictures: The DISCUS Pavillion at the Berlin Bar Convent 2013

Frank Coleman noted that between 2007 and 2012, US whiskeys were the second largest category of imported spirits in Germany, growing 41.4 percent by volume to over 15 million liters, and 32.8 percent by value to over $850 million.

Pictures: Interviews

“American whiskeys trace their heritage to our European ancestors in Germany, Scotland and Ireland,” said Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris, who has spent decades in Kentucky refining his distilling craft. “These forbearers took their distilling skills to a new continent and discovered new varieties of grain, pure limestone-filtered water, and giant forests of American oak. These elements led to the creation of new whiskeys that are now finding much favor with consumers back in Europe. Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey are natural products that are approachable yet complex, whether in cocktails, over ice, or just straight up with splash of water.”

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with the Legend Charles Schumann

“Premium Bourbons, Tennessee Whiskeys and other U.S. distilled spirits are experiencing significant growth in global markets because of their authentic heritage, their distinctive flavors, and their versatility in cocktails, and we are excited to help educate the media and the trade in Germany” Frank Coleman concluded.

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A Date with the German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

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Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and the 2013/2014 German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany

German Wine Princess Sabine Wagner and I met for the first time at the October tasting of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim. As a member of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim since it was founded more than 30 years ago, I always try to come to the monthly events, when I am in the Frankfurt am Main area. Sabine Wagner had just been chosen as one of the two German wine princesses who will support the 65th German Wine Queen, Nadine Poss from the Nahe wine region, over the course of her 12 months reign. By attending the event, she wanted to express her gratitude to the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim for actively campaigning for her. By chance, we were sitting next to each other at the event, but did not have a lot of time to talk to each other. However, there was enough time to agree on a date where we could talk more about my suggestion to come over to Washington DC for a number events to promote German wine.

A Date at Weinhaus Bluhm

We met at Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, my favorite wine tavern in Mainz. Mainz in the wine region Rheinhessen in Germany is, along with Bilbao in Spain, Bordeaux in France, Cape Town in South Africa, Christchurch in New Zealand, Firenza in Italy, Mendoza in Argentina, Porto in Portugal and San Francisco in the US, one of the 9 wine capitals in the world. But there is not a single wine bar in Mainz, as I know them from London, New York City, Berlin or Washington DC. However, there are a large number of wine taverns in Mainz. Typically, wine taverns do not have an elaborated list of wines, nor do they serve fancy and sophisticated food. They serve local wines, at very reasonable prices, typically from a handful of local winemakers that you do not find in the wine guides such as the Gault Millau. There is one exception: Weinhaus Bluhm.

Pictures: Sabine Wagner, Annette Schiller (Wine Tours by ombiasy), Christian G.E. Schiller, Silvia and Roland Ladendorf

See more on Wine Tours by ombiasy:
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German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013
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Starting with the setting and atmosphere, Weinhaus Bluhm is a dark, a bit smoky, very basic tavern. It looks today the same as it looked when I first set foot into the Weinhaus Bluhm as a student of macro-economics at the Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz. The furniture is functional, used, a bit worn down. Weinhaus Bluhm offers a feeling of well-being and it has a lot of charm. In the summer, you can sit on the cobble stone road outside the tavern on communal benches. It cannot get better. The food at Weinhaus Bluhm is simple and good. It does not reach out for some sophistication, as some of the other wine taverns do. It stays at the more basic range, but at the highest quality level.

Pictures: Weinhaus Bluhm, Saturday, 4 pm

When it comes to the wines, however, Weinhaus Bluhm really stands out. It is a class of itself. Nowhere else in a wine tavern in Mainz, you can get wines of German wine stars like Weingut Klaus Peter Keller or Weingut Kruger Rumpf or Weingut Teschke. Owner and Host (“Wirt”) Manager Roland Ladendorf is a wine aficionado and extremely knowledgeable about the wine scene. And what is most important, you can get a fair number of his world class wines by the glass.

Pictures: Roland Ladendorf and Christian G.E. Schiller at Weinhaus Bluhm

I had a delicious Spundekaes – a regional cheese speciality - and a few glasses of wine, all selected by Roland Ladendorf. My wife Annette had a Fleischwurst. And Sabine had a Handkaes.

Pictures: Handkaes, Spundekaes, Fleischwurst

See here for more on Weinhaus Bluhm:
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz: A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany
Rediscoverd: Weinhaus Bluhm in Mainz, Germany - A Cosy and Basic Wine Tavern Serving World Class Wines from Germany

Becoming a Wine Queen and Wine Princess

Sabine explained to me a bit how it works and how she moved up so quickly. The German Wine Queen (German: Deutsche Weinkönigin) is the representative of the German wine industry. She is elected for a period of one year. In 1931, the first German wine region, the Pfalz, crowned its own wine queen. Because the Palatine Wine Queen was Germany's only wine queen, she automatically represented the German wine industry in general as well as the Palatine wine region until 1939, and then again, from 1947 until 1949.

Since 1950, the German Wine Queen has been elected in a separate competition. Each year, every German wine region selects its regional wine queen. From these regional wine queens, the German Wine Queen is chosen the following year. Until 1999, it was a condition that the candidates had to be single - they could be neither married nor divorced - and had to come from a family of winemakers. Since 2000, the candidates who apply have only had to have "clear and strong ties with German wines."

Pictures: With the 2013/2014 German Wine Princess Ramona Diegel from Rheinhessen in Mainz

For more:
Impressions from the Mainz Wine Market 2013, Germany
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Selection is no longer based so much on good looks and dancing skills today; more important, in addition to a knowledge of oenology and winemaking technology, quick wit and eloquence are required as well as proficiency in foreign languages and a knowledge of the export business.

In the first round, the regional wine queens faced a rigorous oral examination with questions about viticultural and winemaking techniques, as well as wine labelling, packaging and marketing, from a panel of 80 judges. Six candidates go to the second and final round, a televised "gala" attended by 1,300 guests and watched by more than a million viewers, where the 18- to 25-year-olds have to demonstrate they can field questions on wine-making spontaneously.

Pictures: With the 2012/2013 German Wine Queen Julia Betram in New York

See also:
The 31-Days-of-German-Riesling Concert Cruise Around New York Harbor with the German Wine Queen Julia Bertram and the 3 Wine Amazones Tina Huff, Eva Vollmer and Mirjam Schneider from Mainz, Germany

During their one-year term of office, the Wine Queen and Wine Princesses advertise German wine at trade fairs, wine festivals and other events. Wine Queen competition is arranged by the German Wine Institute (DWI) in Mainz.

Wine Princess Sabine Wagner

Sabine Wagner was born and grew up in Hochheim, the famous wine village in the eastern part of the Rheingau. Unusually, her parents are not winemakers. Often, wine queens and wine princess came from a winemaking family. In 2009, Sabine was elected Wine Princess of Hochheim. She stayed in that function for 2 years before being elected Wine Queen of Hochheim in 2011. In 2012, Sabine became a candidate for the regional wine queen, the Rheingau wine queen, and was elected. She told me that she was a bit of an underdog in the election but won the contest.

Pictures: Talking

In 2013, Sabine went with 12 other regional wine queens through the challenging selection process for the national wine queen. She did not make it to the very top, but came out of the selection, with her colleague from Rheinhessen, as wine princess. Nadine Poss from the Nahe wine region was crowned the 65th German Wine Queen. She will be supported in her role by wine princesses Sabine Wagner from the Rheingau and Ramona Diegel from Rheinhessen.

Sabine studies International Wine Business at the Geisenheim University in the Rheingau. She is in her 5th semester and will have a one year break.

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Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

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Impromptu Winetasting with Alexander Jung, Weingut Jakob Jung, Erbach, Rheingau, Germany

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Pictures: Annett and Christian G.E. Schiller with Alexander Jung

On the German Wine and Culture Tour 2013 by ombiasy, participants met a number of outstanding winemakers, including Clemens Busch, Ernst Loosen, Helmut Doennhoff and Klaus Peter Kuehn. All these tastings were planned months in advance. One tasting that was unexpected, but turned out to be one of the best tastings of the whole tour, was an impromptu tasting with up and coming winemaker Alexander Jung at his wine booth in Erbach in the Rheingau, on the banks of the Rhine River.

See more on Wine Tours by ombiasy:
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Most of the German wine villages have a booth where during the summer season on weekends one of their winemakers pours his or her wine. When we were in Erbach in September it was the turn of Weingut Jakob Jung, a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 German elite winemakers and I noticed this when we drove into Erbach. When I checked at the wine booth, Alexander Jung was even there … and it was a slow evening. Since we had nothing on the program for that evening, the group decided to accept the offer of Alexander Jung and to come back after dinner for a tasting. It turned out to be a most enjoyable tasting.

Picture: At the Tasting

Weingut Jakob Jung

The winery is in Erbach in the Rheingau. The winery has been in family ownership since 1799. After the early death of his father in 1969, Ludwig Jung had to take charge at the early age of 18, while had the same time doing his studies. Five years later, in 1974, he became fully responsible for the winery. In 2007, he passed ownership and main responsibility on to his son Alexander Johannes, after he had successfully graduated from Geisenheim College (and internships in Baden and South Africa). Today, Ludwig still takes the lead in the vineyard, while Alexander takes the lead in the wine cellar and has overall responsibility.

Pictures: Weingut Jakob Jung in Erbach

The vineyard area now totals 14 hectares which is quite a bit up from when Ludwig took over. The new acquisitions also include a 250 year old stone cellar, with a total length of 110 meters, which is eight meters below the earth and which offers ideal conditions for aging and storing the wines.

The Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) vineyards are Hohenrain, Siegelsberg, Michelmark and Steinmorgen. Overall, Riesling accounts for 4/5 with the remainder being Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer.

Weingut Jakob Jung is a member of the VDP.

More on Weingut Jakob Jung:

At Weingut Jakob Jung in Erbach, Rheingau, with Winemaker Alexander Johannes Jung, Germany

The Wines

Alexander Johannes Jung poured the following wines. I am also adding winemaker notes (in German).

Pictures: At the Tasting

2012 Jung Sauvignon Blanc trocken


Wenn man beim Riesling nicht auf Dichte, sondern auf Leichtigkeit geht, dann kommt im besten Falle dieses hier dabei heraus: Ein Sommerwein par excellence! Euro 10.90

2012 Erbach Steinmorgen Riesling Kabinett trocken

Der feingliedrige Kabinett überrascht mit seiner Vielschichtigkeit und einer ausgewogenen Mineralität.Euro 8.40

2012 Erbach Hohenrain Riesling Alte Reben trocken

Dies ist eine hochwertige Spätlese aus den Trauben 40 Jahre alter Rieslingreben, extraktreich, vielschichtig mit schier unendlichem Abgang. Euro 11.90

2011 Erbach Hohenrain Riesling Grosses Gewaechs


Ein königliches Großes Gewächs aus einer der besten Lagen im Rheingau. Schmelzig, reif und würzig mit einem langen Nachhall, so wie ein Spitzen-Riesling sein sollte. Euro 19.40

2012 Erbach Michelmark Riesling Kabinett

Der Geschmack von Weinbergpfirsich ist beim Erbacher Michelmark sehr präsent: cremig und fein zugleich. Euro 8.40

2011 Erbach Michelmark Riesling Spaetlese


Aus einer unserer Spitzenlagen kommt diese druckvolle Spätlese aus einem sehr guten Jahr. Mineralität gepaart mit feiner Fruchtsüße. Euro 10.40

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With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany

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Picture: Chris Morris, Master Distiller of Brown-Forman and Woodford Reserve, Kentucky, and Christian G.E.Schiller in Duesseldorf

Chris Morris is the Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman, including Woodford Reserve, the ultra-premium Bourbon Whiskey from Kentucky in the US. I accompanied him on a recent tour through Germany.

Woodford Reserve

Woodford Reserve is the smallest of the about 20 distilleries in Kentucky. It is unique in using a triple distillation method. This employs three copper pot stills, built in Scotland. Woodford Reserve is operated by the Louisville-based Brown-Forman Distiller Corporation, which also owns Jack Daniels.

Woodford Reserve traces its origins back to 1797, when Elijah Pepper moved from Virginia to Versailles, where he distilled corn whiskey in a small distillery behind the county courthouse. In 1812 he moved his operation to the present site on Glenn's Creek. In 1941 Brown-Forman bought the distillery used it to produce their Early Times whiskey. By the 1960s Bourbon sales were falling and Brown- Forman sold the distillery to a local farmer. The buyer proceeded to make the car fuel substitute 'gasohol' in the distillery for a short period, but when that venture failed, the distillery lay silent for 23 years. Then, in 1994, with interest in 'small batch' Bourbon rising, Brown-Forman bought back the semi-derelict site and restored it to showpiece condition. In 2003, the present Woodford Reserve name was adopted for both the distillery and its whiskey.

Between 40 and 50 barrels a day are filled at Woodford Reserve distillery. The resultant whiskey is bottled at six to seven years of age. The mashbill comprises 72 per cent corn, 18 per cent rye and 12 per cent malted barley. Bourbon whiskey must be at least 51% corn, and many bourbons are as high as 80%. A bourbon mashbill with 18% Rye is fairly high and helps distinguish Woodford Reserve’s slightly spicy character.

In the Brown-Forman family, a lot of time and attention is paid to Jack Daniels, the whiskey from Tennessee, and for good reason: it’s one of the best selling spirits in America. Although Jack Daniels gets lots of attention, it’s Woodford Reserve that is the crown jewel in Brown-Forman portfolio. Run by master distiller Chris Morris, Woodford Reserve focuses on producing small batch premium bourbon.

Chris Morris 

Chris Morris is sevent Master Distiller for Brown-Forman, since the company began in 1870. A Louisville native, Chris Morris has grown up around bourbon his whole life. His dad was a production manager, and his mother worked in the art department at Brown-Forman. His career with Brown-Forman began in 1976, as a trainee. Chris Morris holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Bellarmine College in Louisville, a master’s degree in liberal arts from Texas Christian University, and a master’s degree in marketing from Webster University.

At Asbach Uralt in Ruedesheim

Our first stop in Germany was at Asbach Uralt in Ruedesheim. We had lunch in the famous Drosselgasse at Breuer’s Restaurant with wines from Weingut Bernhard Breuer. We then moved to the Asbach Uralt company, where General Manager Christopher Dellee introduced us to the company and led us through a brandy tasting. Asbach Uralt is a German brandy produced by the company Asbach Gmbh, which also makes other spirits and chocolate. Asbach's history dates back to 1892 when Hugo Asbach founded the company. The Treaty of Versailles decreed that the word Cognac could only be used for French products, so Hugo Asbach coined the term Weinbrand for German brandy.

Pictures: At Asbach Uralt with Asbach Uralt General Manager Christopher Dellee

We tasted 5 different Asbach Uralt brandies: Asbach Uralt, Asbach Privatbrand (aged for 8 years), Asbach Spezialbrand (15 years), Asbach Selection (21 years) and Asbach Vintage 1972.

At Grand Cru Bistro in Frankfurt

In the evening, Chris Morris presented 4 Whiskeys to a group of whiskey lovers at the Grand Cru Bistro in Frankfurt. The aim of the tasting was to give a broad overview of the world of American whiskeys. The tasting was followed by a great dinner with wines of Walter Schug, Carneros, California.

Picture: At Grand Cru Bistro in Frankfurt am Main

The excellent food, the large, well-chosen and ever changing wine list – with about 300 wines by the bottle and by the glass - and the French brasserie/bistro atmosphere of Grand Cru always bring back fond memories of the 3 years which I spent in Paris. The expertise and the passion for wine and food of owner Kai Buhrfeindt – a Staatlich gepruefte Weinnase (a government certified wine nose) - shows clearly and everywhere at Grand Cru.

At Weingut August Eser in Oestrich Winkel

The next day, we drove from Frankfurt am Main to Duesseldorf and stopped at Weingut August Eser for a cellar tour and tasting with winemaker and owner Desiree Eser.

Pictures: At Weingut August Eser with Winemaker and Owner Desiree Eser

Weingut August Eser is a small, family owned winery in Oestrich in the Rheingau, producing 6000 cases of first class Riesling and Spaetburgunder annually. Desiree Eser: “Our family-winery in the heart of the German wine growing region Rheingau has 10 hectares of 90% Riesling and 10% Pinot Noir grapes. Our cellar dates back to 1650 and it is here that our wines mature and develop their lively aromatic character which is fruity and floral. Our wines are made in both dry and balanced sweet styles. As a member of the VDP, our goal is to produce top quality, distinctive wines. 95% of our production is sold in Germany. I have justed started to export to the US."

At Im Schiffchen in Duesseldorf

In Duesseldorf, Falstaff organized a whiskey tasting with dinner in the “Im Schiffchen”. Chris Morris led an entertaining and educational tasting with four very different American whiskeys. The aim of the tasting was to give a broad overview of the world of American whiskeys. Following the tasting, guests were treated to an excellent four-course menu. It was a terrific evening, which all who were present will remember as an extremely successful symbiosis of German and American delicacies.

Pictures: At Im Schiffchen with Chef Jean-Claude Bourgueil and Ursula Haslauer, Managing Director and Co-owner of Falstaff Deutschland

At Press Conference and Bar Convent in Berlin

In Berlin, Chris Morris joined a group of 18 small and large distillers from America, who had come to Germany to present their products at the 2013 Bar Convent Berlin. The day before the Bar Convent Berlin, the American Ambassador had invited for a press briefing, reception and tasting at the American Embassy in Berlin, which, however, had to be moved to a Berlin Hotel on short notice because of the US Government Shut down. Nevertheless, the event turned out to be a big success.

Pictures: Press Conference at Hilton Hotel in Berlin

Pictures: At Berlin Bar Convent 2013

schiller-wine: Related Postings

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The “Rhums Arranges” - Arranged Rums - and the Tropical Fruits of Madagascar

In the Glass: A Banyuls - a Deliciously Sweet and Fortified Red Wine from Languedoc-Roussillon

Martini, Noilly Prat and Picpoul de Pinet

Visiting Jas Hennessy and Co. - or more simply: Hennessy - in Cognac, France

American Whiskey Producers in Germany

Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland

18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany

Bodegas Baigorri (Rioja, Spain) Wine Blog Posting Contest .... and the Winner is: Christian Schiller from schiller-wine

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“We would like to say THANK YOU to all the participants of our BAIGORRI posting contest. The echo was just amazing and due to the flood of excellent articles we have received, it took so long to choose the winner, being a really hard decision.


Of all posts you have sent finally we would like to nominate Christian Schiller, from Schiller-Wine (schiller-wine-blogspot.com) for his detailed description of BAIGORRI’s, that is perfectly reflecting our philosophy.

Congratulations!”

Bodegas Baigorri, December 5, 2013

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Here is the posting that won:

Visiting a Stunning Winery: Bodegas Baigorri in Rioja, Spain

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Bodegas Baigorri

As part of the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC), I had the luck and pleasure to spend an extraordinary evening at Bodegas Baigorri, an amazing winery in the Rioja Alavesa region.

The 2013 DWCC – formerly called European Wine Bloggers Conference - took place in Logroño (Spain) from Friday, October 25 to Sunday, October 27, 2013. The DWCC is a three-day event that provides a platform for the global wine community to address today's online communications opportunities. As in previous years, the 2013 conference was a highly entertaining and educational mix of workshops, lectures, tastings and winery visits with lunches/dinners.

See:
The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja
Rioja, Portugal, Austria, Italy, Turkey …. Rioja – EWBC 2013 Back in Spain

The first day ended with a winery visit and dinner at the winery. We were put randomly on 6 buses and each bus went to a different winery. I belonged to the lucky ones that were put on the bus to Bodegas Baigorri.

(Continue reading here)

Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur with Winemaker/Owner Dany Rolland, Pomerol, France

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Pictures: Annette and Christian G.E. Schiller with Dany Rolland at Château Le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol

One of the (many) highlights of the 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours was a tour of Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, followed by a spectacular luncheon and winetasting with Dany Rolland, the wife of Michel Rolland, at Château Le Bon Pasteur.

See also:
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy 

Pomerol

Pomerol is remarkable for being unremarkable. It is not a long-established area. There are no beautiful chateaux. There is no real town center, just roads connecting the lands and small, farmhouse style wineries. Pomerol has no classification system. With 800 hectares, it is a small area, with small domains. By contrast: The vineyards of St. Emilion cover more than 5000 hectares; the production of Petrus is just 10% of that of Lafite.

Pictures: Château Le Bon Pasteur - Outside

Nevertheless, Pomerol has managed to earn itself a place among the region's most-respected names. The list of the Pomerol’s best properties includes Le Pin, one of the precursors of the Garagistes style, Petrus and Lafleur, with all three of them regarded as "hors classe" growths, and: Eglise-Clinet, Trotanoy, Vieux-Château Certan, L´Evangile, Certan-de-May, La Fleur-Pétrus, Clinet, Bon Pasteur, Le Gay, Rouget, Clos l'Eglise, Nénin, Petit-Village, Lagrange and Gazin. Pomerol, with the wines of Chateau Petrus and Chateau Le Pen, now commands higher prices than those of the long-established Medoc.

Pomerol has the highest Merlot share in Bordeaux, with Merlot accounting for 80% and Cabernet Franc for the rest. Vines are old and yields are extremely low.

Over the centuries, Pomerol had always been in the shadow of Medoc, Graves and even St. Emilion. Only at the beginning of the 20th century, things changed when Belgians and primarily Dutchmen were more and more interested in the red Pomerol wines. It was not until the 1950s that British merchants woke up to the wines and began to import them into the UK.


Pictures: Château Le Bon Pasteur -In the Cellar

Château Le Bon Pasteur

Château Le Bon Pasteur was acquired by the Rolland family - Joseph and Hermine Dupuy - in 1920. The grandson of the original owner, Michel Rolland, well known around the world as “flying winemaker” and wine consultant, and his wife Dany, also an oenologist, created a model vineyard and produce outstanding wines. In May, 2013, Le Bon Pasteur (including the two affiliated properties) was sold to Sutong Pan, the first Asian investor to buy a truly legendary Pomerol estate. Dany and Michel Rolland continue to manage the estate and make the wine.

In the beginning, the owners grew the grapes, but sold the harvest in bulk to negociants. The Dupony family later passed Le Bon Pasteur on to their children, Serge and Geneviève Rolland. In 1978, the Rolland family continued the tradition and gave Chateau Le Bon Pasteur to their children Michel and Jean-Daniel Rolland. This gave birth to the modern era for Le Bon Pasteur and the start of the career for Michel Rolland.

Pictures: Dany Rolland taking Pictures after the Lunch

The property Le Bon Pasteur originally consisted of vineyards in the three communes of Pomerol, Saint-Émilion and Néac, the last one in the appellation Lalande-de-Pomerol. Originally all three wines were called Le Bon Pasteur, with the respective appellation indicated. From 1978, the wine from Saint-Émilion has been called Château Rolland-Maillet and that from Lalande-de-Pomerol called Château Bertineau Saint-Vincent. They are all produced at Le Bon Pasteur.

Le Bon Pasteur consists of 7 hectares with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. All harvesting is done by hand. The grapes are sorted twice, before and after de-stemming. Prior to 1987, the wine was vinified in concrete vats. In 1987, Dany and Michel Rolland added stainless steel vats equipped with a system of thermoregulation and until the 2010 vintage, the wine was vinified in small steel vats ranging in size from 15 to 70 hectolitres; Dany and Michel Rolland were the first to install this equipment in the Pomerol appellation.

Pictures: Dany Rolland after the Lunch

The grapes are now fermented in barrel and put on an OXO line. The barrels are turned every 3 hours at the start of fermentation and less often by the end of the approximate 40 day maceration. Also starting in 2010, Le Bon Pasteur began including close to 30% whole clusters in the barrels.

The wines of Le Bon Pasteur are aged for 15 to 18 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Bon Pasteur wines are bottled with no fining and unfiltered, if possible. Production averages close to 2,500 cases of Pomerol wine per vintage.

The closest neighbour is Château l’Evangile, and possibly some parts of the next neighbour Château La Conseillante are also visible.

Picture: Dany Rolland with the Group

Michel and Dany Rolland

Michel Rolland grew up on Château Le Bon Pasteur. He studied at the prestigious Bordeaux Oenology Institute, where he met his wife and fellow oenologist, Dany Rolland, and graduated as part of the class of 1972. In 1973, Michel Rolland and his wife bought into an oenology lab in Libourne. They took over full control of the lab in 1976 and expanded it to include tasting rooms. Michel and Dany Rolland's two daughters, Stéphanie and Marie, also work at the lab.

Pictures: Dany Rolland and Annette Schiller

After having sold Château Le Bon Pasteur, Château Bertineau Saint-Vincent in Lalande de Pomerol and Château Rolland-Maillet in Saint-Émilion, the Rollands still own several properties in Bordeaux, including Château Fontenil in Fronsac, and Château La Grande Clotte in Lussac-Saint-Émilion. In addition, they are joint venture partnerships with Bonne Nouvelle in South Africa, Val de Flores in Argentina, Campo Eliseo in Spain and Yacochuya and Clos de los Siete in Argentina.

In addition, Michel Rolland consults for many producers in Bordeaux, in Argentina, South Africa (Simonsberg Stellenbosch), and Spain (Toro).

Reception

Following the tour and before lunch, we tasted the 2 wines that used to be part of Le Bon Pasteur, but since 1978 have been made under different names: Château Rolland-Maillet from Saint-Émilion and  Château Bertineau Saint-Vincent from Lalande-de-Pomerol. They are all produced at Le Bon Pasteur.


Château Bertineau St.-Vincent 2009

75 % Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc
Ruby-red in the glass, soft notes of of fruits and flowers on the nose, pleasantly light, fruity taste on the palate and fresh longlasting finish. Wine searcher average price in US$: 28

Château Rolland-Maillet 2009

Le Figaro: Le vin, de qualité régulière, est caractérisé par son équilibre, par une belle densité et une grande puissance agréablement marquée par le fruit. La production annuelle est de 15.000 bouteilles. Euro 28


Lunch with Dany Rolland

We then had a wonderful lunch with Dany Rolland.


Freshly baked scampis with pleurotus mushrooms


Guinea fowl supreme with duck foie gras and mushrooms


Hot chocolate fondant and raspberry coulis


Coffee with canneles

The Wines


Chateau La Grande Clotte Blanc 2011

Le Figaro: “Précédant les blancs récemment créés en appellation Saint-Emilion, le premier millésime a été produit en 1999. Les vendanges sont manuelles avec double tri. La vinification est réalisée dans les installations du Château Bon Pasteur à Pomerol. Les fermentations et l’élevage sont conduits en barriques de chêne neuves avec bâtonnage sur lies. Le vin est mis en bouteilles sans filtration. Ce vin se caractérise par une belle robe or et par un nez complexe pouvant présenter des notes d’agrumes, de fleurs blanches, de fruits mûrs et de grillé. En bouche, harmonieux et élégant, le vin se distingue par son charnu et sa rondeur. La production annuelle est d’environ 5.000 bouteilles. La commercialisation se fait en direct via la société familiale "Rolland Collection". Le Figaro: Euro 27

Chateau Le Bon Pasteur 2002

Ruby red in the glass, notes of red berries, leather, a hint of tar on the nose, medium bodied, aromas of red berries and medium tannins on the palate, ready to drink.

Wine searcher average prices in US§:
2011 77
2005 113
2000 134

Val de Flores 2006

Michel Rolland Collection, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

The Val de Flores vineyard is ten hectares and is planted with Malbec which are more than fifty years old. The vineyard is situated at the foot of the Andean mountains at Vista Flores in South Mendoza. The vineyard soils is alluviums and deep silts. This wine was aged for 14 months in new French oak barrels and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Wine-searcher average price in US$: 71

Good-bye

It was an amazing lunch. Thanks Dany.

Picture: Thanks and Good-bye

schiller-wine: Related Posting (Bourdeaux Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours 2013)

Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013

Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Wine Dinner at Château Haut-Bailly, Cru Classé de Graves, France

schiller-wine: Related Posting

Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites  

What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France

The Saint Emilion 2012–2022 Classification, Bordeaux

Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction

Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

Fête du Bordeaux of Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, 2012, USA

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) on North America Tour in Washington DC - Schiller’s Favorites 

Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

Owner Jean-Bernard Grenié and Wine Journalist Panos Kakaviatos Presented the Wines of Chateau Angélus and Chateau Daugay at Black Salt Restaurant in Washington DC, USA

A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux

An Afternoon with François Mitjavile at his Tertre Rôtebeouf - A Saint Emilion Cult Wine Producer

Tasting Château du Cros and other Petites Bordeaux Wines with Winemaker Julien Noel at Calvert and Woodley in Washington DC, USA 

Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina

Lunch with Didier Cuvelier at Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Meets Virginia: Touring Virginia with Anne Cuvelier, Chateau Leoville-Poyferre in St. Julien, Bordeaux

Château Léoville-Poyferré Winemaker Dinner with Anne Cuvelier at Eola in Washington DC, USA

Tasting with Alfred Tesseron the last 10 Vintages of Château Pontet-Canet in Washington DC, USA/France 

An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Tasting the Wines of Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estèphe, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, with Owner Basil Tesseron at the French Embassy in Washington DC, USA/France

Château Brane-Cantenac, Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, Margaux – A Profile, France

Henri Lurton and his Chateau Brane Cantenac Wines

An Afternoon with Owner Henri Lurton at Château Brane-Cantenac, a Deuxieme Grand Cru Classe en 1855, in Margaux, France

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Best German Wines and Winemakers: Gault Millau Awards – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Philipp Wittmann in Mainz

Gault Millau published its new wine guide for Germany - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2014 - in November 2014. It reviews on more than 900 pages more than 1000 wineries. Its rating symbol is a grape and Germany’s best winemakers are awarded one to five grapes. Ever since 1994, the Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany has honored outstanding personalities of the German wine world and special wines.

For earlier years, see:
Best German Wines and Wine Makers – the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 Awards
2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012
2011: Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany 2011– Ratings
Gault Millau Wine Germany 2010

Outstanding Personalities

Wine Maker of the Year: Philipp Wittmann (Rheinhessen)

“Wittmann is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture and the main driver of development in the Wonnegau. For years, he has been producing great dry Rieslings that age great. Almost alone, he has made the Morstein to what it is today” said Joel Payne.

Picture: Philipp Wittmann at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach

See also:
Top 100 of the Wine Spectator 2009 include Wittmann and Loosen Rieslings
The "German Wine Spectator Top 100 List" - Weinwirtschaft: Top 100 Wines in Germany in 2011

Rising Star of the Year: Michael Städter, General Manager of and Winemaker at Chat Sauvage (Rheingau)

“Within a few years, Michael Städter has gone from zero to being one of the leading Pinot Noir producers in the Rheingau. He even makes good Chardonnay and sparkling wine” said Joel Payne.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Michael Staedter at Weingut Chat Sauvage

For more, see:
Weingut Chat Sauvage– Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany
Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach– An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany  

Discovery of the Year: Weingut Alte Grafschaft (Franken)

»Using buildings of Fürst Löwenstein in Tauberfranken und vineyards of the Staatliche Hofkeller, Christoph Dinkel und Norbert Spielmann have fulfilled their dream and right from the beginning demonstrated that they know what they are doing” said Joel Payne.

Outstanding Wines

Best Wine Collection of the Year: Bernhard Koch, Weingut Koch, Pfalz

Best Winzersekt: Brut 2004 MonRose Sekthaus Raumland (Rheinhessen)

Best Spätburgunder: 2011 Lange Goldkapsel Jean Stodden (Ahr)

Best Weißer Burgunder: 2012 Birkweiler Mandelberg »Großes Gewächs« Dr. Wehrheim (Pfalz)

Best trocken Riesling: 2012 G-Max Keller (Rheinhessen)

Best feinherb Riesling: 2012 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp van Volxem (Saar)

Best Riesling Kabinett: 2012 Scharzhofberger Egon Müller (Saar)

Best Riesling Spätlese: 2012 Scharzhofberger - 6 - Egon Müller (Saar)

Best Riesling Auslese: Beste Riesling Auslese Ürziger Würzgarten Goldkapsel *** Jos. Christoffel Jun. (Mosel)

Best edelsüß Riesling: Oestricher Lenchen Trockenbeerenausles »E« Peter Jakob Kühn (Rheingau):

Outstanding Sommelier and Wine List

Sommelier of the Year: Markus Berlinghof, Jacobs, Hamburg 

Wine List of the Year: Rutz in Berlin

“Rarely a wine card is as much influenced by the restaurant’s sommelier as the wine card of Rutz is by its enfant terrible Sommelier Billy Wagner, who has been offering his guests interesting discoveries and important mainstream wines in magnum bottles” said Joel Payne.

Pictures: Rutz Sommelier Billy Wagner Pouring

See also:
Billy Wagner Invited to the 10th Bottle Party at Wein Bar Rutz in Berlin 
Weinbar Rutz and Restaurant Hot Spot, both in Berlin, Germany, on the Newsweek List of 101 Best Places to Eat in the World, 2012

schiller-wine: Related Postings

Best German Wines and Wine Makers – the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013 Awards

2012: Best German Wines (Awards) – Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2012

2011: Gault Millau WeinGuide Germany 2011– Ratings

Gault Millau Wine Germany 2010

Chat Sauvage Versus Peter Querbach– An Impromptu Pinot Noir Wine Tasting with Kai Buhrfeind at His Grand Cru Wine Bar in Frankfurt, Germany

Weingut Chat Sauvage– Bourgogne in the Middle of the Rheingau: Meeting Chat Sauvage’s Winemaker and General Manager Michael Staedter, Germany

Billy Wagner Invited to the 10th Bottle Party at Wein Bar Rutz in Berlin

Weinbar Rutz and Restaurant Hot Spot, both in Berlin, Germany, on the Newsweek List of 101 Best Places to Eat in the World, 2012 

Top 100 of the Wine Spectator 2009 include Wittmann and Loosen Rieslings

The "German Wine Spectator Top 100 List" - Weinwirtschaft: Top 100 Wines in Germany in 2011

Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany

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Picture: Ernst Loosen, Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Germany

One of the highlights of the 2013 Germany Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy was a morning tasting with Ernst Loosen at Weingut Dr. Loosen in at Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley. Ernst Loosen has become a global player, with the Mosel Valley remaining his home base. We only tasted
wines from the Mosel Valley.

Picture: Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst Loosen in the World

Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.

Pictures: A Morning Tasting with Ernst Loosen at Weingut Dr. Loosen (Mosel Valley)

Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley

The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.

Pictures: Ernst Loosen, Annette Schiller and Christian G.E.Schiller at the Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen

But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market. So, it was not a surprise that during his stay in Washington DC, Ernst Loosen presented also is dry Red Slate wine as well as Grosses Gewaechs wines – the ultra-premium dry wines from Germany. “But while in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewaechs wines are very high in demand. Here in the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst.

Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases. Ernst Loosen won the "Riesling of the Year" of the German wine magazine Der Feinschmecker in 1989. In 2001, the Gault Millau Weinguide named Ernst Loosen as the German Winemaker of the Year.

The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen

Ernst explained to us that his wines can be grouped into 3 quality categories.

Single Vineyard Wines

These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995). “We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Ernst said.
ner Treppchen.

Pictures: The tête-à-tête dinner at Rasika was with Washington Post Wine Columnist Dave McIntyre and me. We were later joined by Rasika Somelier Paul Ruttiman and Annette Schiller, wine tours by ombiasy.

Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines – ultra premium dry wines from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Treppchen.

Ernst explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.

Estate Wines

All the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.

The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.

Dr. L

Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine. it is made with grapes bought from other grape growers in the Mosel Valley.

Ernst Loosen in Oregon

Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Jay Somers is not only a gifted winemaker, but also a killer guitarist.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at the J. Christopher Winery in Oregon

Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz

In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.

Ernst Loosen in Washington State

Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.

Picture: Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, and Chateau Ste. Michelle CEO Ted Baseler at the Farewell Reception of the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, Washington State, USA

The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.

Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA

Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.

Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
Weingut Fritz Haag (Mosel, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland) and
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon

Pictures: Martina Weil, Annette Schiller, Wilhelm Weil, Ernst Loosen and Christian Schiller at the 2013 Rheingau Riesling Gala at Kloster Eberbach in Germany

The Wines Ernst Poured

2012 Dr. Loosen Weissburgunder Dry
2012 Dr. Loosen Red Slate Riesling Dry


2012 Dr. Loosen Blauschiefer Riesling Dry


2011 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Alte Rebe Grosses Gewaechs Riesling Dry
2011 Graacher Himmelreich Grosses Gewaechs Riesling Dry


2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
2012 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett


2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spaetlese


2011 Uerziger Wuerzgarten Riesling Auslese
2011 Erdener Praelat Auslese Goldkapsel


Bye-bye

Thank you very much, Ernst, for a memorable morning tasting.


schiller-wine: Related Postings (Ernst Loosen)

Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.

Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA

Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World

A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon

Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009

German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein

The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA

The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA

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François Mitjavile, Winemaker of the Year 2013 (“Der Feinschmecker”) , France

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Picture: Christian G.E. and Annette Schiller with François Mitjavile, Winemaker of the Year 2013 (“Der Feinschmecker”), at his Tertre-Roteboeuf in Saint Emilion

Earlier this year, the German Gourmet journal “Der Feinschmecker” announced its wine wards of 2013, in 7 different categories: (1) The actor and musician Ulrich Tukur is the “Wine Gourmet of the Year”. (2) The Spanish winemaker Carlos Falcó, Pagos de Familia, got the award in the category “Lebenswerk/Live Achievement”. (3) The Champagne Dom Pérignon is the “Wine Legend of the Year”. (4) The winemaker Christiane Wagner of Weingut Dr. Heinz Wagner (Saar) go the “Wine Collection of the Year” award. (5) Arianna Occhipinti from Sicily is the “Newcomer of the Year. (6) 5 winemakers from the Franken region, who created the winemaker group “Trias” got the “Award for Friends“. (6) Last but not leasts, the “Der Feinschmecker Winemaker of the Year” is François Mitjavile, Château Tertre-Roteboeuf and Château Roc de Cambes in Bordeaux.

Picture: “Der Feinschmecker Winemaker of the Year”

The visits of and tastings with François Mitjavile were among the highlights of the Bordeaux Tours by ombiasy both in 2012 and 2013.

See:
Bordeaux Trip September 2012, France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Bordeaux Trip Coming up in September 2013 

Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

François Mitjavile, Château Tertre-Roteboeuf 

Tertre Rôteboeuf is one of the finest châteaux in Saint-Emilion. Yet, it is not classified. François Mitjavile is far away from St. Emilion mainstream. He does not bother to be included in the prestigious Saint-Emilion classification and he does not sell his wines through the Place de Bordeaux.

20 years ago, Tertre Rôteboeuf was unknown. But since then, Tertre Rôteboeuf has become a cult wine producer in St. Emilion and the price of Tertre Rôteboeuf has gone up significantly.

This has been spearheaded by a unique individual, François Mitjavile, helped by his wife Miloute, his son Louis and daughter Nina.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller and Annette Schiller, Ombiasy Wine Tours, at Tertre Rôteboeuf in early 2012. See also: Tour de France de Vin: 6 Days, 7 Regions, 3500 km - In 6 Days through 7 Wine Regions of France

The origins of Tertre Rôteboeuf lie with a vineyard named Le Tertre that was owned by François Mitjavile's late father-in-law. After he passed away in 1961, the property was inherited by his daughter Miloute. She leased it to her cousins, who owned Chateau Bellefond-Belcier.

Meanwhile, François Mitjavile was working at his family's successful haulage business. He decided to change course in life and try his hand at winemaking.

Between 1975 and 1977, he went through the school of Chateau Figeac. When he returned to Le Tertre after the 2 year apprenticeship, he suffixed Rôteboeuf (its literal translation is the unsavory "hill of the belching beef").

Pictures: François Mitjavile Lecturing

1978 was the first vintage that François Mitjavile made entirely by himself. His breakthrough on the wine scene was with the 1985-vintage. Since 1994 vintage, he removed the word “Châteaux” from the label at his wines.

Tertre Rôteboeuf looks a bit garagiste - a small estate with a vigneron house build in the 18th century lovingly tended by Miloute and François Mitjavile, two kilometers south-east of the village of Saint-Emilion, not far from Chateau Troplong Mondot and Chateau Larcis Ducasse.

The limestone based vineyards of Tertre Rôteboeuf (5.7 ha) are planted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The Merlot-vines are on average 45 years old, while Cabernet Franc ones are 5 years older.

Pictures: Tasting in the Cellar

François Mitjavile's winemaking approach: He picks the grapes as late as possible and maintains low yields. The wine stays on the skins for a long time and is aged in 100% new oak barrels for 18 to 24 months. The very late harvest combined with long alcoholic fermentation and extraction at 35°C results in a voluptuous, full-bodied, and very complex wine. Super-ripe Merlot is the key.

The estate does not produce a second wine.

When François Mitjavile took over, he was considered as an odd person with strange ideas. Today, he is acknowledged and respected by the majority of château-owners in Bordeaux.

But François Mitjavile is very much his own man. He has never applied to be a Grand Cru Classé. Nor does he sell his wines through the Place de Bordeaux.

Wine Searcher Average Prices

2012 US$163
2011 US$169
2010 US$235
2009 US$243
2005 US$365
2000 US$407

Roc des Cambes in Cotes de Bourg

Roc de Cambes is a Côtes de Bourg estate and one of the finest producer in the appellation today. François Mitjavile bought it in 1988.

There are 12 hectares of vines, planted with 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. The soil here is a blend of chalk and clay. Vines are on average 50 years old.

The grapes are harvested as late as possible, and are then vinified in temperature controlled cement vats. The wines are massive and dense, spending two years in 100 per cent new oak.

When Francois Mitjavile bought Roc de Cambes, it was in quite bad shape. He put renovation and modernizing in full swing immediately. In just a few years, he Roc de Cambes one of the top-wines of Côtes de Bourg.

The second wine labeled as Domaine de Combes comes under the basic Bordeaux appellation.

Wine Searcher Average Prices

2011 US$ 60
2010 US$ 69
2009 US$ 71
2005 US$ 87
2000 US$ 71

L’Aurage

The Mitjavile family owns another Bordeaux property located in Cotes de Castillon. Louis Mitjavile is completely in charge.

"Der Feinschmecker" About François Mitjavile

“Like many a talented winemaker, François Mitjavile came to be involved with wine by a circuitous route. In the 1960s, Mitjavile worked in his family’s haulage company, where the monotonous tasks did little to fulfil him. But even when his then girlfriend and later wife inherited Château Tertre-Rotebœuf in Saint-Émilion, Mitjavile initially stayed away from the vines. It was only in the 1970s that the couple decided they themselves should cultivate the lands they had leased. With no prior oenological training, Mitjavile knocked at the door of one of the most respected wine estate owners in Saint-Émilion and was admitted by none other than Thierry Manoncourt from Château Figeac – who in 2007 won the WINE AWARD for lifetime achievement. Manoncourt took it upon himself to initiate Mitjavile into the mysteries of winemaking and in 1977 Mitjavile finally began his career as a vintner.

Pictures: The Vineyards

From that time on, Mitjavile has been producing one of the most strong-bodied and yet filigree Saint-Emilions at Tertre-Rotebœuf. A wine that nearly all critics can come to agree on: both those, who deem body to be the most important characteristic, as well as those who give preference to a wine’s elegance. In 1987 Mitjavile went on to purchase Château Roc de Cambes, also located on the right bank of Bordeaux’ river in the Côtes de Bourg. Even though this wine could also project Mitjavile to the top of the appellation, the winemaker remains modest. Bordeaux connoisseurs regard Mitjavile as a sensitive intellectual.
philosophy.

Pictures: With the 2013 Group

Mitjavile refused to become involved in the squabbles surrounding the reclassification of Saint-Émilion: Due to its privileged position on a steep slope on the edge of a limestone plateau and thanks to its irresistible wines, Tertre Rôtebœuf would undoubtedly be a candidate for a Premier Cru classé ranking. But Mitjavile has never even applied for a classification.”

Anyone who has ever visited the winemaker in his manor house above the vineyard, or enjoyed his company during an animated conversation in his well-stocked library or during a wine tasting in the small, labyrinthine cellars knows that the furthest thing on this man’s mind are prestigious labels.

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The World Meets at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

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Picture:  Stephanie Weegmueller, Christian G.E. Schiller, Annette Schiller and Gabriele Weegmueller at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

“Die Welt trifft sich bei Weegmuellers” – The World Meets at Weegmueller”. This is the motto of Weingut Weegmueller, a charming winery in the Pfalz, Germany, headed by a female winemaker, Stephanie Weegmueller, with the help of her sister, Gabriele Weegmueller.

The 2013 German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy PR and WineTours also included a stop in the Pfalz … and this was where the world meets: Weingut Weegmueller. We had a very enjoyable morning tasting in the courtyard of Weingut Weegmueller with the two Weegmueller girls, Stephanie and Gabriele.

See:
German Wine and Culture Tour by ombiasy, 2013

Pictures:  Annette Schiller, Gabriele Weegmueller, Stephanie Weegmueller and Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Weingut Weegmueller

The Weegmueller family can look back to more than 300 years of winemaking in the Pfalz. The origins of the Weegmueller family, an old dynasty of council members of the free town of Zuerich, lies in Switzerland. In 1657, the Weegmuellers came to the village of Haardt, today a part of the city of Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, and started to make wine in 1685.

Pictures: Annette Schiller and Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Weingut Weegmüller is the oldest winery in the Pfalz – some claim to fame in this region thick with the ancient three Bs: Bassermann Jordan, von Buhl and Bürklin-Wolf.

One of the first women in the field, Stefanie Weegmueller is at the helm of the estate. She was among the first women in Germany to set foot in the male-dominated winemaking industry. Today, Stefanie Weegmüller is one of Germany’s leading winemakers, representing the 12th generation of her family’s ownership of the estate. She consistently produces classic wines that are eloquent in their expression of the unique terroir of the Mittelhaardt.

Pictures: Tasting in the Courtyard

Until a few years ago, Stefanie's ex-husband Richard Scherr was in charge of the vineyard. Today, Rainer Klein und Fabian Krämer are responsible for the vineyard work. They practice what they call ecological viticulture and yields are kept low.

The Wines of Weingut Weegmueller

The dominating grape variety is Riesling. 15 hectares of best vineyards around Haardt. i.e. Haardter Herrenletten, Haardter Gimmeldingen and Haardter Mussbach, belong to the estate. Though dominated by Riesling, Weingut Weegmueller also makes Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Scheurebe and Gewuerztraminer. The wine portfolio is complemented by Pinot Noir, Merlot and Dormfelder.

Pictures: Tasting in the Courtyard

We went through a series of Weegmueller wines, including the following three, which are available in the US through Moore Brothers.

Moore Brothers currently offers 3 Weegmueller wines:

2011 Weingut Weegmueller Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Alte Reben

“While the Herrenletten -- a first-class vineyard just a half kilometer north of Neustadt -- comprises a mere thirtieth of Stefanie's production, its excellent southern exposure and its soil (sand and clay over deep slate) has produced some of her most memorable wines. This Spätlese trocken from the Alte Reben (vines 30 and 40 years old) is no exception. Rich and textured, it displays the complex aromatics of classic Pfalz wine: dried apricot, nut, smoke and spice.” Greg Moore, Moore Brothers Wine Company, June 26, 2013, $38.00

2012 Weingut Weegmuller Riesling Vom Gelben Fels

“Vom Gelben Fels, a special selection of dry, spätlese grapes from Mandelring, Herrenletten, and Herzog -- the three greatest vineyards in all of the Haardt -- may be Steffi's most exclusive dry Riesling. This wine "from the yellow rocks" is marked by fresh, forward, peach and citrus aromas and a bright, vibrant finish.” Greg Moore, Moore Brothers Wine Company, June 26, 2013, $25.00

2012 Weingut Weegmuller Scheurebe Trocken

“Her Scheurebe Trocken is aromatically intense (redolent of apricots and lemongrass) with a fine, vibrant core of acid.” Greg Moore, Moore Brothers Wine Company, June 26, 2013, $25.00

Pictures: Annette Schiller, Gabriele Weegmueller, Stephanie Weegmueller and Christian G.E. Schiller at Weingut Weegmueller, Pfalz, Germany

Moore Brothers, USA

“In 1996, Greg Moore, the Sommelier / General Manager of Le Bec-Fin, and his brother David, a wine retailer, opened Moore Brothers Wine Company, offering a collection of personally selected wine in a small store in Pennsauken, New Jersey. Now there are three stores, serving New Jersey, Delaware, and New York, presenting small-farm, naturally-produced, artisan wines primarily from the “Old World.” The wines are selected via a direct, personal relationship with many of the finest producers in their respective regions, shipped in temperature-controlled containers, and presented in a friendly, comfortable retail environment which serves over sixty-thousand enthusiastic customers.”

Picture: Gabriele Weegmueller and Christian G.E. Schiller in New York City.

Gault Millau

Finally, here is what Germany’s leading wine guide, the Gault Millau Deutschland, has to say about Weingut Weegmueller (in German): “Ein Besuch auf dem Weingut Weegmüller ist stets ein unterhaltsames Erlebnis. Stefanie Weegmüller-Scherr ist Betriebsleiterin und Kellermeisterin (und das seit weit mehr als 20 Jahren), ihre Schwester Gabriele die Organisatorin im Hintergrund - und gemeinsam bringen sie ein Weingefühl rüber, das bauchgeboren und sehr emotional ist. Der Weinstil der Weegmüllers hat sich in den vergangenen fünf Jahren beständig nach vorne entwickelt, ist spielerisch, luftig und außerordentlich präzise geworden. Im vergangenen Jahr lobten wir die 2009er und 2010er über den grünen Klee. Mit 2011 ist der Klee noch dichter geworden, fast jeder Wein hat sich nochmals gesteigert, wie der hervorragende Grauburgunder Alte Reben oder die drei trockenen Kabinett-Rieslinge exemplarisch beweisen. Für Furore sorgte Steffi Weegmüller in diesem Jahr, als ihr Grüner Veltliner bei einer internationalen Vergleichsverkostung dieser Rebsorte fulminant den ersten Platz abräumte. Übrigens: Weegmüllers verzichten bewusst auf Rotweine.”

Bye-bye

Thank you Stefanie and Gabriele Weegmüller for a wonderful tasting.

Pictures: Bye-bye

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Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffeliere, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé, France

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Count Stephan von Neipperg

The 2013 Bordeaux Tour by ombiasyPR and WineTours included several lunches and dinners at prestigious châteaux. I have to say, they were all spectacular and I am not able to determine, which one was the most impressive. They were all very impressive. The first one in this series was a dinner at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint-Emilion.

Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg welcomed us and joined us for the reception, but was not able to stay for the dinner. Magali Malet showed us around and joined us for dinner.

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Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy  

Château Canon La Gaffeliere Tour

We started with a vineyard and winery tour of Château Canon La Gaffelière.

Château Canon La Gaffelière is located on the outskirts of the medieval town of Saint-Emilion, at the southern foot of the slope. The 19.5 hectare vineyard has a complex, outstanding terroir of clay-limestone and clay-sand soil. The topsoil is primarily sandy, increasingly so as one moves away from the slope. The vines, an average of 45 years old, are deeply rooted in the soil and absorb all the goodness in the terroir. They are mostly replaced individually rather than plot by plot (which maintains the average age). The last major replanting dates back to 1986.

Pictures: Vineyard Tour at Château Canon La Gaffelière with Magali Malet

The mixture of grape varities cultivated on the wine estate (55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) is rather untypical in comparison to the rest of the appellation. This identity, strongly influenced by Cabernet, gives the Canon La Gaffelière wines an outright complex character.

Since last year, Canon La Gaffelière belongs to one of the 15 Premier Grand Cru Classé B châteaux in Saint-Emilion. The promotion of Château Canon La Gaffelière in the classification of the Saint-Emilion appellation last year was not really surprising, yet an overdue acknowledgement for Mr. Neipperg.

The von Neipperg Family in Germany, Austria and France

Proprietor Count Stefan von Neipperg hails from the German wine region of Württemberg where his family has maintained its existing vineyards since the 15th century and bottles its wine under the family label, Weingut des Grafen von Neipperg. In fact, the von Neipperg counts are descended from a noble line dating back to the Holy Roman Empire. The first record of the Count von Neipperg goes as far back as the 12th century.

Pictures: Château Canon La Gaffelière

Count Joseph Hubert von Neipperg branched out in 1971 and acquired 4 St. Emilion estates in 1971: La Mondotte, Château Canon La Gaffelière, Clos de l'Oratoire, and Château Peyraud. Since 1984, Count Joseph Hubert’s son Count Stephan has been in charge of these 4 estates. Moreover, he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria.

Here is a list of all Count Stephan von Neipperg estates:

La Mondotte, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé
Château Canon La Gaffelière, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé
Clos de l'Oratoire, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé
Château Peyreau, AOC Saint-Émilion
Château d'Aiguilhe, AOC Cotes de Castillon
Clos Marsalette, AOC Pessac-Léognan
Château Guiraud, AOC Sauternes, Premier Cru Classé 1855
Château Soleil. AOC Puisseguin Saint-Emilion
Bulgaria: Count Stephan von Neipperg, in conjunction with the banker Karl-Heinz Hauptmann, was one of the first people to invest in the wine sector in Bulgaria - in the Bessa Valley, in the Pazardjik region, 135 km southeast of Sofia.

See also:
A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and Germany

Count Stefan von Neipperg in France

Stephan Graf von Neipperg was borne at the family estate in Schwaigern. As a young man, he had no intention of getting involved in wine. He studied politics and business administration in Paris. Later, after having decided to change course, he also studied winemaking in Montpelier.

In 1983, Stephan Graf von Neipperg Neipperg moved with his German wife Sigweis to St. Emilion. At that point, the French holdings of the von Neipperg family consisted of the four estates his father had bought in 1971. Since then Stephan Graf von Neipperg he expanded the family’s French holdings further and also entered into a joint venture in Bulgaria. He has become one of the Right Bank's most successful winemakers.

Pictures: Cellar Tour at Château Canon La Gaffelière with Magali Malet

On that very successful route, Stephan Graf von Neipperg linked his fortunes to Stéphane Derenoncourt, a Normandy millworker's son who had never seen a grapevine before hitchhiking to Bordeaux in 1982, but taught himself enology and has since confounded traditionalists with his winemaking.

In 1988, Stephan Graf von Neipperg instituted a green harvest, dropping fruit in June to gain depth and ripeness in September. He stopped using chemical fertilizers and insecticides in 1993 as he edged toward a more biodynamic approach. "Just like 70 years ago," Stephan Graf von Neipperg. "The insects eat each other." He harvested later than his neighbors and aged his cuvées entirely in new oak.

Reception

We started the dinner with a Bollinger Champagne and were joined by Stephan Graf von Neipperg.

Pictures: Reception with Stephan Graf von Neipperg

Dinner

Pictures: Dinner at Château Canon La Gaffeliere, Appellation Saint-Emilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé

Wok de Légumes en Salade, Œuf de Caille, Suprême de Volaille à la Citronnelle


Confit de Canard Laqué au Caramel d’Epices Douces Méli-Mélo de Légumes Croquants


Assortiment de Fromages

Tarte aux Framboises


Café

The Wines



Château d’Aiguilhe 1999

Château d'Aiguilhe, AOC Cotes de Castillon

Château d'Aiguilhe is located on hills overlooking the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, on the border of the Côtes de Castillon appellation.

This 110 hectare estate has 50 hectares of vines, which are planted exclusively on the upper part of the hills. The vineyard has excellent natural drainage and south-facing sun exposure. The minerals in the clay-limestone soil account for a wine of both power and finesse in which the roundness of Merlot (80%) marries beautifully with the concentration and complexity of Cabernet Franc (20%).

Comte Stefan von Neipperg purchased the estate in 1998. He invested millions of euros in a state-of-the-art facility at Château d'Aiguilhe, in the previously unnoticed Côtes de Castillon appellation, then dared to market the wine like a St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The success of d’Aiguilhe is credited with putting Cotes de Castillon on the map.


Clos de l’Oratoire 2000

Clos de l'Oratoire, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé

Clos de l'Oratoire is located on Saint-Emilion's north-east slope. The 10 hectares of vines grow on Fronsac molasse covering a layer of sand with a clay subsoil. This terroir is ideally suited to the blend of Merlot (90%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) grapes. Merlot contributes roundness and opulence to the wine, whereas Cabernet Franc is responsible for power, aromatic complexity, and length.

In 1991, Stephan Graf von Neipperg was given control of Clos de l'Oratoire, and he subsequently bought the remaining 30 percent of the property from other investors.


Château Canon La Gaffeliere 2000

Château Canon La Gaffelière, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé


La Mondotte 2001

La Mondotte, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Premier Grand Cru Classé

The 4.5-hectare estate, founded in the 19th century, is situated on the most eastern plateau of Saint-Emilion and was purchased in 1971 by the family of the Counts of Neipperg, at the same time as the Château Canon La Gaffelière. Even though La Mondotte used to be in the shadow of Canon La Gaffelière as long as to the middle of the 1990ies, it has benefited to the same extent of the philosophy of Stephan von Neipperg and his teams.

Excellent hydric regulation encourages the vines to sink their roots deep into the soil. The superb sun exposure and fine natural drainage due to the steep slope make this a very early-maturing terroir. The vines are an average of 50 years old and the vineyard contains only premium grape varieties (75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc). Ripening, especially of Merlot, is almost invariably early and complete.

The recent admission of Château La Mondotte - which sixteen years ago used to be almost unknown on the market - in the extremely closed circle of Premiers Grand Crus Classés is extraordinary.


Chateau Guiraud 1998

Château Guiraud, AOC Sauternes, Premier Cru Classé 1855

This gem of an estate in Sauternes dates back to the 15th century. The vineyard currently covers 100 hectares. Château Guiraud is known for its organic approach to viticulture.

11,000 cases made. The blend of 65 percent Sémillon and 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc comes from 35- to 40-year-old vines.

Four partners - Robert Peugeot (of Peugeot automobiles), Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier), Stephan von Neipperg (Canon-La Gaffelière and others) and Xavier Planty, the estate’s longtime general manager - acquired Château Guiraud in 2006.


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Glühwein (Mulled Wine) at Frankfurt Christmas Market, 2013, Germany

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Pictures: Christian, Annette, Katharina, Benjamin, Lorelei and Otto Schiller at Frankfurt Christmas Market

Yesterday, we (Annette, Katharina, Benjamin, Lorelei, Otto and Christian Schiller) had our first Gluehwein of this year at the Frankfurt Christmas Market, after arriving in Germany over the last weekend (except for Katharina who lives in Stuttgart).

Glühwein, the popular mulled wine in German-speaking countries and the region of Alsace in Northeastern France, just across the border from Southwest Germany, is the traditional beverage offered and drunk at Christmas Markets, but is also offered in cafés and restaurants during the Advent and Christmas season.

Pictures: Christian, Annette, Katharina, Benjamin, Lorelei and Otto Schiller at Frankfurt Christmas Market

Glühwein is made from red wine that was heated and spiced with cinnamon, citrus, vanilla pods, cloves and sugar. In Frankfurt am Main, the base wine can be applewine (hard cider). In fact, Benjamin had an applewine-based Glühwein.

The German Christmas markets open in early-December and sell ornaments, advent calendars, springerle molds and other Christmas items. Every city and town in Germany has a Christmas market.
Pictures: Christian, Annette, Katharina, Benjamin, Lorelei and Otto Schiller at Frankfurt Christmas Market

Yesterday evening, on the historic market square in Frankfurt, against the imposing back-drop of the over thousand year old Cathedral of Frankfurt am Main and the Roemer (Mayor’s Office), the air was scented with a Christmassy mixture of roast almonds, gingerbread, hot chestnuts and mulled wine. Large and small visitors gladly let themselves be enchanted by this pre-Christmas atmosphere. On a stroll through the Frankfurt Christmas Market, the stress and hectic pace of everyday life were quickly forgotten.

Pictures: Benjamin and Lorelei Schiller on a Carrusel

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French Artist Guy de Rougement Designs Château Mouton Rothschild 2011 Label

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Picture: Guy de Rougemont (left) and the label of château Mouton Rothschild for the vintage 2011 (right) (Copyright Philippe Pannetier Courtesy Mouton-Rothschild)

Each year, the esteemed French wine producer chooses a master artist to create a label. French painter and sculptor Guy de Rougemont designed the 2011 label.

See also:
The Label of 2010 Château Mouton-Rothschild Designed by Jeff Koons from New York City, Bordeaux
The label of 2007 Chateau Mouton Rothschild designed by Bernar Venet 

Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac

The Château Mouton-Rothschild vineyard totals 84 hectares. In terms of red grapes, 80% is Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. There is also Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, for the estate's white wine. The wine is fermented in oak vats (they are one of the last châteaux in the Médoc to use them) and then aged in new barrique barrels.

Pictures: Château Mouton-Rothschild in Pauillac

Baron Philippe de Rothschild

The birth of Château Mouton-Rothschild took place in 1853, when Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild - from the English line of the Rothschild family - purchased the estate - which was called Château Brane-Mouton - and renamed it using his name. The estate was in English hands in the 15th century but returned to French hands after the 100 Years War.

It was under Baron Philippe de Rothschild - who was only 20 years old, when he gained control of the property - that winemaking and wineselling at Château Mouton-Rothschild – and in general in Bordeaux – changed drastically.

The Baron was the first Bordeaux winemaker to insist on bottling all his wine at the estate. This new practice created a need for more storage at the property. In 1926, the Baron constructed the famous Grand Chai, the majestic 100-meter first year cellar, which has become a major attraction for visitors to Mouton.

The now famous series of labels designed by artists started in 1945.

In the 1930s, long before the idea of second wines had become standard practice, the Baron created a second wine for Mouton, Cadet de Mouton. It quickly became Mouton Cadet, first a blended wine, then a branded wine (again the first of its kind in Bordeaux) and is today the largest selling French branded wine in the world.

Finally, in 1973, Mouton was elevated to premier grand cru en 1855. The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was largely based market prices. It was established by the negociants of Bordeaux. Despite the market prices for their wines equaling that of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild was excluded from premier grand cru status, possibly because the estate was not in French ownership.

The Portfolio

Like Lafite Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild is now a mix of privately-owned chateaux, international joint ventures and commercial branded wines:

Château Mouton-Rothschild (grand vin)

Petit Mouton (second wine): 6,000 cases

Château d’Armailhac: In 1933, the Baron purchased a neighboring vineyard, Château Mouton d’Armailhacq. The property was renamed Château d’Armailhac in 1989 by his wife, the Baroness Philippine. Part of the reason for the purchase was, the estate came with a Bordeaux negociant firm which eventually became known as Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A. 17,000 cases.

Château Clerc Milon: 13,000 cases

Mouton Cadet: Bordeaux’s oldest and largest branded wine, with 15 million bottles sold each year across 150 countries.

Opus One: In 1980, the Baron entered into a joint venture with Robert Mondavi to create Opus One Winery in Oakville, California, now co-owned with Constellation Brands. 25,000 cases.

Almaviva: In 1997, Château Mouton Rothschild teamed up with Concha y Toro of Chile to produce a quality Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine in a new winery built in Chile's Maipo Valley. 10,000 cases.

Owner: Baronness Philippine - Married to French theater director and actor, Jacques Sereys in 1961 – now divorced. Three children, Camille, born in 1961, Philippe, born in 1963, and Julien, born in 1971. Her personal wealth is estimated at €190 million by Le Nouvel Economiste.

Château Mouton-Rothschild in Pauillac and Mayor Amschel Rothschild in Frankfurt am Main

The roots of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild – and the Rothschild empire in general – are in Frankfurt am Main, Germany. Towards the end of the 18th century Mayer Amschel Rothschild, a money changer from Frankfurt am Main, born in 1744, had five sons and decided to install them in the five major European centers of the time.

* Amschel Mayer Rothschild (1773–1855): Frankfurt - died childless, passed to sons of Salomon and Calmann
* Salomon Mayer Rothschild (1774–1855): Vienna
* Nathan Mayer Rothschild (1777–1836): London
* Calmann Mayer Rothschild (1788–1855): Naples
* Jakob (James) Mayer Rothschild (1792–1868): Paris

Picture: The House of the Rothschilds in Frankfurt am Main

The Rothschild brothers became one of the major forces in the far reaching changes that swept through Europe, while their father had not been allowed to purchase land outside of the Frankfurt am Main ghetto. During the 19th century, they were the bankers to monarchs and governments, bankers to Napoleon’s Europe and then in the industrial area the builders of the modern economy through their investment in railways.Baron Philippe, who died in 1988, belongs to the London branch of the large Rothschild family.

Labels Designed by Artists

The custom of having an artist design each year the label of the Mouton Rothschild wine goes back to the year 1924, when Chateau Mouton Rothschild was ready to release its first vintage bottled at the Chateau itself.

Until then, wineries sent their wine in casks to wine merchants in the city of Bordeaux, who then undertook the responsibility of stocking the casks for the two-year aging process, before bottling the wines. Although labels had been in use since the middle of the 19th century, they served merely to provide basic information about the wine contained in the bottle--or what, at any rate, was supposed to be in the bottle.

Rothschild commissioned for the occasion the popular poster designer Jean Carlu to design a label. Carlu's cubist-inspired label shocked the wine community--Philippe Rothschild was to scrap the label design only two years later--but nonetheless succeeded in calling worldwide attention to the new era of Rothschild wines. In the years leading up to the World War II, the Rothschild chateau continued to experiment with its wine labels.

France's capitulation to the Nazi invaders and the installation of the collaborative Vichy government nearly spelled disaster to the Rothschild wine business. The chateau itself was occupied by the Nazis and made a German headquarters, while the Vichy government placed operations of the vineyard under its agricultural department's control. Philippe Rothschild and his family were captured--Rothschild's wife was killed in a Nazi death camp--but Philippe Rothschild managed to escape, finally joining up to fight with the Free French army under General Charles de Gaulle.

Returning to his chateau after the war, Philippe Rothschild decided to allow his first post-war vintage to celebrate the Allied victory. Rothschild asked friend Philippe Julian to design a new label for the 1945 vintage. Based on Churchill's famed V-sign, the label sparked a new era for Mouton Rothschild.

Philippe Rothschild, who had already been among the pioneers in recognizing the marketing potential of a wine's label, now decided that the label for each year's vintage was to feature an original piece of artwork--commissioned from Rothschild's circle of friends, only some of whom were artists. Yet all received the same payment: five cases from that year's vintage, plus five cases chosen from the Rothschild cellars.

In 1955, the Rothschild label took on a still more serious role. That year's label featured a design from famed painted Georges Braque. From then on, the Rothschild labels were to become a showcase for the world's top contemporary artists, featuring, among others, drawing and paintings from Joan Miro, Salvador Dali, Henry Moore, Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, and later artists such as Keith Haring, Balthus, and others.

Guy de Rougemont’s Label for the 2011 Vintage

French painter and sculptor Guy de Rougemont designed the 2011 label of Pauillac first growth Château Mouton Rothschild.


Guy de Rougemont was born in 1935, and is famous for his use of vibrant geometric motifs. Also well-known are his huge frescos and polychrome columns which feature in several public buildings around the world, including the Musée d'Orsay in Paris. Guy de Rougemont’s is art works have strongly influenced industrial design and interior design.

Guy de Rougemont created two art works for Mouton-Rothschild. The first, a painting that will be printed on the label of the 2011 vintage uses his trademark "sinuous, random" undulating shapes, in bright colors ranging from gold to dark red. Mouton Rothschild says the art work encompasses "the clarity of vines in sunshine to the darkness of the cellars – all the stages of the birth of a great wine”. The second is a series of golden brass columns adorned with wine-red volutes. These columns are meant to stand in a new room of the Pauillac château dedicated to the exhibition “L'art et l'étiquette” (label art).

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