We visited 2 producers in the Ahr Region: Weingut Kreuzberg and Weingut Jean Stodden. In addition, we had lunch at the Gutsschänke of Weingut Meyer-Näkel.
With red wines accounting for 90% of the output in the Ahr, these visits were dominated by delicious Spätburgunder wines, in contrast to the white wine domination before (in the Mittelrhein and the Rheingau) and after (in the Mosel). The Ahr valley north of the 50 °latitude is unquestionable the northernmost region for producing top Pinot-Noirs. The secret lies in an ideal micro-climate found in the narrow canyons along the river with their very special geological conditions, and south-facing slopes. Wine making along the tiny Ahr river goes back to Roman times. There is no other wine region in the world with such a high concentration of Pinot Noir (86%).
Owners/ winemakers Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten of Weingut Kreuzberg were on leave. We were hosted by Albert Schamaun, Technical Director at Weingut Kreuzberg.
Technical Director Albert Schamaun
Albert Schamaun has been the Technical Director of Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg since 2014. He joined Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg as a consultant in 2008. He also consulted with Weingut Jean Stodden, the other Ahr producer we visited on this trip, for several years.
Albert Schamaun was borne in Norway. He studied biology and enology at Université de Bourgogne in the 1990s and interned at various producers in the Bourgogne, including Domaine Dujac (Morey-Saint-Denis) and Domaine William Fèvre (Chablis).
Albert Schamaun has his own consulting company. He is a red wine expert, in particular Pinot Noir.
Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg
This winery has long been recognized as one of the top estates for producing great Pinot-Noirs in Germany. It is a young estate by German standards.
Weingut Kreuzberg was founded in 1953 by the grandfather of the current co-owner, Ludwig Kreuzberg. In the estate’s second generation, “Jupp” headed the business for over 40 years together with his wife, Maria, his sister, Angela and his brother-in-law, Johannes. During this time they expanded the vineyards to an area of 3.5 hectares.
In 1994, “Jupp” passed the business on to his son Ludwig. His brother remained the cellar master for 10 years until he left and started to produce his own wine. In 2007, Albert Schamaun, while making the wines at Weingut Jean Stodden, started to consult with Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg. In 2013 Frank Josten joined the team.
Today Ludwig Kreuzberg and Frank Josten co-manage the estate, which has grown to cover 12 hectares (9 hectares owned and 3 hectares leased). Since 2013, Albert Schamaun is the head winemaker.
Frank Josten: In the vineyard, we practice integrated wine growing. Organic soil cultivation (fertilisation with animal dung, straw covering, bark mulch or covering with vegetation) plays a vital role in this. Cutting back the vines in the premium positions leads to a limitation of yield which may be lower than 35 hl/ha. Partial leaf removal from the vines in late summer and thinning of the grapes, as well as selective hand-picking are important aspects of the work in our vineyards. 2/3s of the vineyards are on steep slopes with a high proportion of Devonian slate; soils that give the Ahr wines their typical character.
In the cellar, all dry red wines are produced in a traditional manner, i.e. with open mash fermentation and in old or new oak casks (Barriques). Malolactic fermentation and gentle filtration are also important elements of our philosophy.
Germany’s Collection of the Year 2011 (Gault Millau)
Gault Millau: A pleasing upwards trend in Dernau. The Wine-growing estate belonging to Ludwig Kreuzberg has been on the up for several years and has been one of the Ahr’s best estates for a long time. However, the Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir Précoce from 2008 has been a great success for the family business.
The wines are wonderfully structured, showing clean and lasting fruity aromas and posess class and elegance thanks to their perfectly integrated acidity and fine tannins.
The Pinot Noir from the Devonian slate stands out from this most harmonious collection as an example of elegant Burgundy style. [...]”
The Wines we Tasted
2016 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Blance de Noir
2015 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Spätburgunder
2015 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Spätburgunder Unplugged
2015 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Devonschiefer Spätburgunder
2015 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Frühburgunder C
2014 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Frühburgunder Reserve
2014 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Schieferlay Spätburgunder GG
2014 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Silberberg, Spätburgunder GG
2014 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Sonnenberg, Spätburgunder GG
2014 Weingut H.J. Kreuzberg, Hardtberg Frühburgunder GG
Bye-bye
Thanks Albert Schamaun for a great tasting.
Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)
Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir
Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung in Hattenheim, Rheingau: Cellar Tour, Art Tour, Tasting and Vineyard Tour with Winemaker Tim Lilienström - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau: Lunch, Tour of the Abbey, the Steinberg and the Steinbergkeller, with Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau: Tour and Tasting - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leitz in Rüdesheim, with Johannes Leitz – Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein in Winningen, Mosel, with Reinhard Löwenstein - Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting Pinot Noir at Weingut Kreuzberg in Dernau, Ahr
Visit and tasting at Weingut Jean Stodten, in Rech, Ahr, with Alexander Stodten
Tasting at Weingut Markus Molitor in Haus Klosterberg, Mosel
Tasting and Vineyard Visit at Weingut Immich-Batterieberg in Enkirch, Mosel, with Gernot Kollmann
The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany
Wining in Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley: Wine Tavern “Spitzhaeuschen”, Germany
Tasting and Vineyard Walk at Weingut Fritz Haag (VDP) in Brauneberg, Mosel, with Oliver Haag
Dinner at the 2 Michelin star restaurant Schanz in Piesport, Mosel
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Visit and tasting at Weingut Maximin Grünhaus (VDP) in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, Mosel, with Dr. Carl von Schubert
Visit and tasting at Weingut von Hövel (VDP) in Oberemmel, Saar, Mosel, with Max von Kunow
Tasting at Weingut Emrich-Schoenleber (VDP) in Monzingen, Nahe, with Frank Schönleber
Wine-pairing Lunch at Landgasthof Zur Traube in Meddersheim, Nahe, with Petra Hexamer and the wines of Weingut Hexamer.
Dinner with Wine Pairing the Restaurant of Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Corenlia, Stefan and Georg Rumpf
Tasting at Weingut J.B. Becker, in Walluf, Rheingau, with Hajo Becker
Lunch at Gutsausschank-Ristorante Weingut von Oetinger in Erbach, Rheingau