Stuart Pigott’s and Paul Grieco’s Riesling Road Trip from June 19 to 27, 2013, began in LA and culminated in NYC with the Annual Riesling and Co tasting on June 27. The 2013 Riesling and Co tasting took place in the trendy Chelsea district. It was a trade show - no consumers.There were 33 tables. At a number of tables, the winemaker himself or herself, or the owner were present and poured the wines. At other tables, the wines were poured by the importer, representing the Weingut. In addition, the "wine bar on wheels" of the Riesling Road Trip had been parked in the tasting hall and you could enjoy there matured wines with Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott.
This posting, following some background information and German wine and Riesling in particular, profiles my favorite winemakers and importers/distributors at the 2013 Riesling and Co tasting.
See for the 2010 Riesling and Co tasting in New York City:
Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York
See for the 2013 Riesling Road Trip:
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Dry and Sweet Riesling
Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a Riesling in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. Rieslings as a rule are dry wines. Of course, there are the famous sugar sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein and Schilfwein wines from Austria and Germany, the Sélection de Grains Nobles from France, the icewines from Canada and other Rieslings, made from botrytized, dried or frozen grapes. The grapes that go into these wines have such a high sugar content that there is nothing you can do to make dry wines out of these grapes. They inevitably produce nobly sweet wines. But apart from these exceptions, which account for only a tiny share of total production, Riesling grapes in Germany, Austria, Alsace, the US and Australia have normal sugar content at the time of fermentation and tend to produce dry wines, when fully fermented.
However, modern cellar methods allow winemakers in Germany (and elsewhere) to produce wines with a bit of residual sugar with these grapes. There are principally two methods applied in Germany – but neither in Austria nor Alsace - for making these sweet-style Rieslings. First, you do not let the fermentation run its course and stop it; as a result, you get a deliciously sweet and low alcohol wine. Second, you let the wine fully ferment to a normal alcohol level and then add Suessreserve (sterilized juice) to achieve the desired degree of sweetness. These sweet-style wines have lost popularity in Germany, although there appears to be a comeback, but in any case remain very popular outside of Germany, for example in the US.
See more:
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
Riesling in the World and in Germany
Worldwide, there are about 34.000 hectares planted with Riesling. Germany – with 22.400 hectares – accounts for 2/3 of the total. The second largest Riesling producer is Australia, with 4500 hectares. But this is only about 1/10 of the total. Alsace follows with 3500 hectares. Austria, the US with Washington State and New York State as well as New Zealand make up the remainder. But overall Riesling is really a niche wine, accounting for only less than 1 percent of total wine production in the world - but a very special niche wine.
German Wine Classification Systems
Although many people think that there is only one wine classification system in Germany – the classification system of the Law of 1971 – this is not correct. True, the classification system of the Law of 1971 with its pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest (Qualitaetswein, Kabinett, Spaetlese, Auslese …) at the center is the standard classification system in Germany and the vast majority of winemakers in Germany use this approach. A large number of winemakers, however, have moved away from the standard, in particular the producers of premium and ultra-premium wines. Importantly, the powerful group of German elite winemakers – the VDP (Verband Deutscher Praedikatswein Produzenten) – has conceived its own classification system and is developing it further.
In sharp contrast with the standard classification system of the Law of 1971, the VDP classification system is based on the terroir principle. The pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has moved to the backburner in the VDP system. Indeed, for dry wines the pyramid of ripeness of the grapes at harvest has been completely eliminated in the VDP classification system.
Following Bourgogne, the classification system of the VDP comprises 4 quality layers:
• VDP.Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Erste Lage (Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP.Ortswein (Village level in Burgundy)
• VDP.Gutswein (Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)
See more:
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
13 German Wine Regions
There are 13 German wine regions.
Five large regions - Rheinhessen 26000 hectares, Pfalz 23000 hectares, Baden 16000 hectares, Wuerttemberg 12000 hectares, Mosel 10000 hectares.
Three medium-size regions - Franken 6000 hectares, Nahe 4000 hectares, Rheingau 3000 hectares.
Five small regions - Saale Unstrut 700 hectares, Sachsen 500 hectares, Hessische Bergstrasse 500 hectares, Mittelrhein 500 hectares, Ahr 300 hectares.
The German Wine Industry
Germany has 48.009 winemakers (Winzer) and a vineyard area of 102.000 hectares. Large wineries are rare to find, except for the wine co-operatives. In this concept, “winemaker” does not stand for making or even bottling wine, but stands for growing vines and producing grapes. In some areas of Germany, like Baden and Wuerttemberg, 80% of the so called winemakers deliver their grapes to a wine cooperative.
Almost 90% of the winemakers operate with less than 5 hectares of vineyard area. There are only about 6.000 wineries with more than 5 hectares of land. Excluding wine-cooperatives, there are only 10 wineries in Germany with more than 100 hectares of land.
Compared with an estimated vineyard area of 7.000.000 hectares in the world, Germany accounts for only a bit more than 1% of world production. The big 3 are Spain, France and Italy with a combined vineyard area of 3.000.000 hectares.
See more:
The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry
Schiller’s Favorites
Schloss Reinhartshausen - Rheingau
A famous Riesling producer in the Rheingau with a long history. Schloss Reinhartshausen has recently been sold to a mass-wine producer in the Pfalz and its VDP membership has been terminated. We will have to wait and see how things develop there.
See also:
Rhine Wine – The Weingut Schloss Rheinhartshausen Wines of the Mariannenaue Island in the Rhine River, Germany
Weingut Dr. Heger – Baden (21 ha)
Owner and winemaker Joachim Heger is the Gault Millau WeinGuide 2013 Winemaker of the Year. Joachim Heger also won the Eichelmann Best Red Wine Collection Award in 2013. Gerhard Eichelmann: “Year after year, Joachim Heger makes fascinating Pinot Noir wines, both from the Ihringer Winklerberg and the Achkarrer Schlossberg. In the last few years, they had even more finesse and have become even more complex, more Burgundian.”
See more:
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany
Rudi Wiest – Importer, California
Rudi Wiest is among the leading importers of German wine into the US, with a focus on VDP producers and increasingly on dry wines.
Weingut Kruger Rumpf – Nahe (25 ha)
“In our family, viniculture has been tradition since 1708 - a tradition that we have been cultivating in our vineyards as well as in our manor house which was built back in 1830” says winemaker Georg Rumpf. Stefan Rumpf, Georg’s father, brought Weingut Kruger-Rumpf up to where it is today: After completing his studies in agricultural sciences, including stints in Californian wineries, and conducting research at the Geisenheim research institute, Stefan Rumpf took over the estate from his parents in 1984. Up until then, the wines were sold almost entirely in bulk. Stefan Rumpf changed this and started to bottle his wines and to market the bottles himself. Less than 10 years later, in 1992, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf was invited to join the VDP, the about 200 German elite winemakers, a clear sign of what Stefan Rumpf had achieved over the course of just 8 years.
The wines were presented by Stefan Rumpf.
See:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
See:
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany
Winesellers/Vinnicombe - Importer
Valerie Lynch-Giroux from Winesellers presented the wines of the portfolio of Derek Vinnicombe, including Weingut G.A. Schneider, Weingut Fitz-Ritter, Weingut Dr. Fischer and Weingut Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Mueller-Burggraf).
See:
3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider– and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA
Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch
Visit: Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany - for Upcoming German Wine Society Tasting in Washington DC, USA
Maximin Gruenhaus - Schlosskellerei C. von Schubert – Mosel (30 ha)
The historic Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long, steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the tiny Ruwer river, about two kilometers upstream from where it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the family of Carl von Schubert.
The wines were presented by Joachim von Schubert, son of Carl von Schubert. Dr. Loosen Bros. is importing the mostly fruity sweet and noble sweet Maximin Gruenhaus wines from the Ruwer Valley.
Weingut Dr. Loosen – Mosel (20)
Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA: First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, mostly fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world; second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf; third, the J. Christopher Wines, a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and fourth, the Eroica wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.
See also:
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
On Weingut Dr. Loosen, see:
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Weingut Robert Weil – Rheingau (80 ha)
Founded in 1875, Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich is the Rheingau’s #1 estate and one of Germany’s best. Today, Weingut Robert Weil is managed by Wilhelm Weil, who owns the winery jointly with Suntory from Japan. 80 hectares under vine, it is one of the largest estates in the Rheingau. The historical manor house, the ultra-modern cellars and the vinothek stand side by side in a beautiful park – the same synthesis of old and new that is reflected in the estate’s philosophy of winemaking. Dr. Loosen Bros. is importing the Weil wines.
Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Wilhelm Weil, Weingut Robert Weil, in KiedrichSee also:
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Weingut Selbach-Oster – Mosel (21 ha)
Weingut Selbach-Oster can trace wine-growing in the family back to the year 1661. The Selbach-Oster vineyards are located on some of the best vineyard land in the heart of the Mosel wine country called "Mittelmosel": Zeltingen (with Sonnenuhr, Schlossberg and Himmelreich), Wehlen (with Sonnenuhr), Graacher (with Domprobst and Himmelreich) and Bernkastel (with Badstube). In their cellars, they still use the traditional "Fuder" barrel made from old German oak to prevent woody flavors from masking the purity of fruit and soil flavor. A "Fuder" holds 1000 liters. They balance between stainless steel and a few fiberglass tanks with a maximum size of 3000 liters per unit, ensuring low temperatures during fermentation and with it, the preservation of freshness and delicacy of aroma.
Johannes Seelbach presented the mostly fruity-sweet Riesling wines.
Weingut St. Urbanshof – Mosel (33 ha)
Weingut St. Urbans Hof was first established in 1947 by Nicolaus Weis who was awarded the prestigious title “Oekonomierat” (Chancellor of Agriculture) in 1969 and title became part of the winery name, St. Urbans Hof Oekonomierat Nic. Weis Weingut. Today, Nikolaus (Nik) Peter Weis is the third generation owner and manager of the estate which totals nearly 33 hectares making it the second largest family owned wine estate in the Mosel Saar Ruwer wine growing region.
Valckenberg - Importer
P.J. Valckenberg is: (1) an importer of German wines into the US, (2) an importer of old and new world wines into Germany, (3) a producer of sparkling and still wine in Germany, (4) a distributer of imported and own wines in Germany, and (5) an exporter of German wine to many countries.
The focus of Valckenberg’s US wine portfolio is on winemakers with a long tradition. It does not include any of the new generation of innovative, young winemakers, for example from Rheinhessen, but relies on well respected, top-level winemakers with a long tradition, sometimes going back several centuries.
See:
Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines
Weingut Weegmueller – Pfalz (15 ha)
Wine Blogger Heike Larson: “The womanly art of making wine. Or: Girls Rule! Certainly at this winery. Stefanie Weegmüller-Scherr, very down-to-earth and all big smiles, is the gifted winemaker of the estate. For 25 years now, she has been among the first women to set foot in the male-dominated winemaking industry. Her sister Gabriele is completing her by taking care of all marketing matters. She is the hospitality manager and I can witness, she does this well!"
Gabriele Weegmueller presented the exclusively dry wines, jointly with importer Greg Moore from the Moore Brothers.
Weingut von Winning – Pfalz (50 ha)
Deidesheim's heydays came at the beginning of the 19th century when estate owner Andreas Jordan was the first to produce high quality wines according to strict selection rules, and the first to introduce the Spätlese in Palatinate. When Andreas Jordan died in 1848, his enormous estate was split into three, a procedure which has become famous under the name "the Jordan Division." By it, the estates of Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl and Dr. Deinhard were formed, all of which became famous on their own. In 1848, the winery bore the owner's name, Dr. Deinhard. When the owner died, the winery was taken over by his daughter and her husband, Captain Leopold von Winning, with the resulting change in name. The early 20th century was a golden age for von Winning, which also became one of the founders of VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates. Later, with the owners changing once more, the winery became known as Dr. Deinhard again. Since 2007, the winery belongs to the group of Achim Niederberger and since 2009 carries again the name von Winning.
Weingut Gunderloch – Rheinhessen (23 ha)
It all started in 1890, when the banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the Gunderloch manor house in Nackenheim. Today, the Estate is still in the hands of the Gunderloch family.
When Carl Gunderlocho died in 1935, the estate passed first to Gunderloch's granddaughter Elizabeth Usinger and her husband. They remained at the helm until 1965, when their son Carl Otto took on the management of the estate. Today it is his eldest daughter, Agnes Hasselbach-Usinger and her husband, Fritz Hasselbach that are in charge. Fritz Hasselbach is a highly accredited winemaker and responsible for the wine. But there are already the next 2 Gunderloch generations waiting.
Fritz Hasselbach presented the 6 Weingut Gunderloch wines; 3 of them dry and 3 fruity-sweet.
See:
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany
Weingut Georg Breuer – Rheingau (33 ha)
Weingut Georg Breuer was founded in 1880 by Peter Breuer, partner of the German wine shipping firm Scholl & Hillebrand. Today, the estate is managed by Heinrich Breuer und Theresa Breuer, the daughter of the late Bernhard Breuer. Riesling dominates with some 26 hectares of vines; the other varieties are Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.
Co-author of authoritative books on Germany's wine regions and credited to a great degree with restoring Riesling's respectability in world markets, the late Bernhard Breuer was highly regarded internationally and worked tirelessly in defense of German viticultural integrity.
Teresa Breuer presented the mostly dry wines.
Weingut Eva Fricke – Rheingau (4.5 ha)
Eva Fricke is the Falstaff 2013 Newcomer of the Year. From 2004 to 2011, Eva Fricke was the Operations Manager at Weingut Josef Leitz. Eva Fricke, was born and grew up in Bremen in Northern Germany, produced her first own wine in 2006, from particularly steep slopes in Lorch. Since 2008 Eva Fricke lives and works at the Koetherhof in Kiedrich, where her winery is located.
In presenting the Falstaff Award to Eva, fellow winemaker Roman Niewodniczanski pulled his imaginary hat to Eva Fricke's performance, establishing from scratch one of the most exciting wineries in the region. He is "utterly blown away" by her Rieslings.
Picture: Eva Fricke and Christian G.E. Schiller in Ruedesheim, GermanySee:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
Domaene Schloss Johannisberg – Rheingau (35 ha)
The outstanding position which Schloss Johannisberg has captured, not only for the Rheingau but for German wine in general, is apparent through its majestic setting on a hill high above the Rhine close to Rüdesheim. A view which fascinated Goethe: “… Johannisberg thrones over all”. The wine harvest was documented for the first time in 817. The Mainz Benedictine monks began to build a monastery, which was later consecrated to John the Baptist, in 1096. The grand Schloss originated in 1716 and was later gifted to the Metternich Winneburg house by Austrian Emperor Franz I. Von Harbsburg. A royalty of the harvest is still to be paid to the Harbsburg family till today, till 1940 in wine since than in money.
Schloss Johannisberg is the oldest Riesling-Estate of the world. The Spätlese (late harvest) wines were invented here in 1775 when a courier came back late from the owner and nobel rot had infected and concentrated the Riesling grapes.
Picture: Schloss Johannisberg
Weingut Leitz - Rheingau (40 ha)
Weingut Josef Leitz dates back to 1744 and - like so many wineries in Germany - has passed from one generation to the next for virtually 4 centuries. Johannes Leitz, the current owner and winemaker, took charge of the estate in 1985, when he was in his early 20s. At that time, Weingut Josef Leitz had 3 hectares of vines and was virtually unknown among German wine connoisseurs. Early on, Johannes Leitz connected with Washington DC based importer Therry Theise, with a view of expanding production by pushing exports. Today, Johannes Leitz has successfully grown to 40 hectares of vineyard area and 90% of the production is sold in the export markets, notably the US.
The Gault Millau Weinguide Germany 2011 picked Johannes Leitz for Winemaker of the Year. “In the beginning not even people in Ruedesheim knew him. Now, his Riesling wines are regarded as examples of outstanding Rheingau Rieslings not only in his home town, but also in London and New” said the editor of the 2011 WeinGuide Gault Millau Deutschland, Joel Payne.
See also:
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
Domdechant Werner – Rheingau (13.5 ha)
As a founding member of the "Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim" (Winebrotherhood Hochheim), the Domdechant Werner'sches Weingut in Hochheim is close to my heart. The Domdechant Werner Estate cultivates 13.5 ha of vines, 98% of which are planted with Riesling and 2% Spätburgunder. It produces wines of all styles, ranging from dry to lusciously sweet wines. Some 60-70% of the wines are exported to about 25 countries around the world, making the estate a "global player" on a small scale.
In 1780, the father of Dr. Franz Werner, the renowned Domdechant (dean) of the Cathedral of Mainz, acquired from the Count York the Hochheim wine estate. Domdechant Werner is credited with having saved the Cathedral from being demolished during the French Revolution and was responsible for its reconstruction. The Estate is now owned by Dr. Franz Werner Michel, the seventh generation of the founding family. The eighth (and possibly ninth) generation is now on the scene, as Dr. Michel's daughter, Catharina Mauritz, mother of three sons, has also become involved in the Estate's management.
See also:
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany
schiller-wine - Related Postings
Ombiasy Wine Tours: Wine and Culture Tour to Germany Coming up in August 2013
Impressions from the Riesling & Co World Tour 2010 in New York
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
When Americans Drink German Wine - What They Choose
German Wine Basics: Sugar in the Grape - Alcohol and Sweetness in the Wine
Stepping up: From 3 … to 4 Quality Levels - The New Classification of the VDP, Germany
Approaches to Classifying German Wine: The Standard Approach (the Law of 1971), the VDP Approach and the Zero Classification Approach
The Size and the Structure of the German Wine Industry
Rhine Wine – The Weingut Schloss Rheinhartshausen Wines of the Mariannenaue Island in the Rhine River, Germany
Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany
Visiting Georg Rumpf and his VDP Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe Region, Germany
Wine Maker Dinner with Stefan Rumpf at Weinstube Kruger-Rumpf in Muenster-Sarmsheim, Germany
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC.
Visiting Wilhelm Weil at his Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Germany
Tasting with Wilhelm Weil the 2010 Weingut Weil Wines in Kiedrich, Germany
Meeting Valckenberg Owner Wilhelm Steifensand and Tasting his Wines
Visiting Agnes and Fritz Hasselbach at their Weingut Gunderloch in Nackenheim, Rheinhessen, Germany
Visiting Weingut Josef Leitz in Ruedesheim – Johannes Leitz is Germany’s Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide 2011
3 German Winemakers – Dr. Fischer, Fitz-Ritter and G.A. Schneider– and the American Institute for Wine and Food (AIWF) at the L2 Lounge in Washington DC, USA
Wine Caravan from Germany Visiting the East Coast, US: Dr. Fischer, Fitz Ritter, Bolling-Lehnert, Schneider, Dr. Thanisch
Visit: Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, Germany - for Upcoming German Wine Society Tasting in Washington DC, USA
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany