Caroline Parent-Gros from Domaine A-F Gros in the Bourgogne and daughter of the Owners and Winemakers, Anne Francoise Gros and Francois Parent, was in town (Washington DC) and guided us through a tasting of her families smashing 2010 Burgundies during a winemaker dinner at the newly opened at Range in the Washington DC area.
Domaine A-F Gros
The Gros family has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1830′s. The Domaine A-F Gros was created in 1996 when Jean and Jeanine Gros retired and divided their Domaine Gros-Renaudot among their 3 children, Michel, Bernard and Anne-Françoise. 3 new domains arose out of Jean and Jeanine Gros’ retirement: Domaine Michel Gros in Vosne Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur directed by Bernard in Vosne Romanée, and Domaine A-F Gros in Pommard. In Vosne, there is also a domaine of cousin Anne Gros. So in total, there are 4 Gros domaines, all of them independent from each other.
Anne-Françoise married François Parent, who also brought a domaine into the marriage. Today, after the purchase of more vineyards, the husband and wife domaines work alongside each other and present a treasure of appellations from both the Cote du Nuits and Cote du Beaune. Their vineyards are mainly in Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Savigny-les-Beaune, Beaune and Pommard villages and the Hautes Côtes. Francois is renowned for his wines of elegance and distinction, which are the perfect expression of French Pinot Noir. Leaning towards a bio-dynamic approach, his traditional methods of cultivating the land and tending the vines are intimately adapted to the different micro-climates, soils, and expositions of the vineyards. Anne-Françoise and François live in Pommard but the winery is in Beaune.
Former Citronelle Wine Director and Sommelier Kathy Morgan is a Master Sommelier. There are only a bit more than 100 sommeliers in the world who have achieved the title of Master Sommelier.
For other dinners organised by Al McCosh, see:
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
The Next Generation: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Anne-Françoise and François have three children: Caroline, Rosalie and Mathias.
Rosalie has nothing to do with wine, while Caroline (in her mid 30s, she has 2 children) and Mathias (in his early 20s) work side by side with their parents and are slated to eventually take over. Caroline focuses on the sales side (with her mother), while Mathias on the winemaking (with his father).
For upcoming Ombiasy Wine Tours, see:
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013
Caroline has recently launched her own negociant venture and produces wines from a variety of vineyards located in both Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Part of her own venture is Pinot Angels, co-founded with Chef Hubert Keller in 2012. Hubert Keller is the owner of Fleur de Lys in San Francisco and Las Vegas. Hubert is an Alsace-born chef and a passionate Harley rider. "When you are a Pinot Angel, you ride freely in elegance and tradition. Not just anyone can handle this" says
Caroline Parent-Gros.
Range by Chef Bryan Voltaggio
Tom Sietsema from the Washington Post: “Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from “Top Chef” alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley.
Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range, the first foray into Washington by Voltaggio, whose three establishments in Frederick -- Volt, Lunchbox and Family Meal -- draw food enthusiasts from across the region. Part of the fuss stems from the chef’s celebrity and part of the attention is explained by the reality: Despite all the money and the stomachs in the area, Friendship Heights is poor when it comes to choice places to dine.
The big surprise after four dinners: The hype is justified. Range, backed by chef de cuisine Matt Hill from Charlie Palmer Steak, is a terrific restaurant much of the time. ...
The menu, no surprise, is long and varied. The left side of the script focuses on raw seafood, charcuterie, cheese, salads and pasta; the right column is devoted to pizza, grilled meats and fish, pan-roasted items and vegetable dishes. …
The prime seats are those to the left of the bar, a curved stretch with floor-to-ceiling windows that look into the atrium on one side and with a view of the cooking stations -- “a chef’s playground,” Voltaggio calls them -- on the other. The expanse in the back feels more like an overflow room. Range’s cream-colored seats and muted palette let the food shine; a retail shop with Voltaggio-approved kitchen equipment feels as if Williams-Sonoma crashed the party.
Take advantage of the sterling credentials of the sommeliers. Keith Goldston and more recently Kathy Morgan clearly enjoy sharing the stories behind their liquid wares, which call to both the haves and the have-not-as-muches with a broad range of wines and prices. France is particularly well represented."
Vintage 2010
We tasted vintage 2010 wines. Caroline Parent: “2010 could be compared to 2002 with its structure and tannins. Small volume (-30 to 50%). 2010 will be a complex wine representative of big Burgundy wines to be aged. It is a collection vintage.
What we Ate and Drank
Grilled king salmon, pork belly, corn, porcini, summer truffle
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits (US$42.99)
From a parcel located on a very well exposed small hill with the forest behind, which protects it from strong winds. The vines are planted so they follow the slope and contours of the small hill. This layout permits vines to be planted on steep slopes without the risk of erosion of the soil. Generous and robust, full-bodied and round, it combines engaging berry aromas with real strength. This is a lovely wine and a good step up from most regular Bourgogne.
Jancis Robinson: Meat juice, bit of blood, whip-smart acid. Great fruit, but not quite so complex as the basic Bourgogne rouge. 16 Points
Yukon gold potato gnocchi, braised pork, guanciale, young garlic
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Savigny-le-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Clos des Guettes (US$72.99)
A-F Gros is an excellent source for this wine on the upper slope facing south. Superb freshness on the nose and palate. Displays great minerality and acidity. Lovely vibrant palate with fine tannins and excellent length. This appellation has received Burghound’s Sweet Spot award for the last five vintages.
Jancis Robinson: Minty, herbal notes and a really attractive grip on the finish. Nutmeg spice, redcurrant – all sorts going on in here. Ably shows Pinot's breadth. 17 Points
Bobo farm squab, foie gras spinach emulsion
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Beaune 1er Cru Les Boucherottes (US$79.99)
Boucherottes is located near the Pommard border but surprisingly produces a fruity style of wine without hard tannins. The earth here is supple, very fine and quite red in color. The yield from the old vines here is very small. The regularity of this cru is quite remarkable. Red-blue pinot fruit of serious style and body. A very smart wine from Beaune, a commune that is starting to produce some very exciting wines at reasonable prices. Like all good reds from Beaune this merits some time in the cellar.
Jancis Robinson: Wonderful red fruit clarity with that Burgundy savouriness and the perfect dose of oak. Debonair, classy and poised. 17.5 Points
Roseda farms beef, stuffed morels, chicory
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Chambolle-Musigny (US$79.99)
From vineyards totaling 39 acres, divided into several parcels with different localities: Frémières, Le Pas de Chat, Derrière le Four, Les Athets. The parcels are fermented together. Lovely depth of colour. An aromatic nose leads to a rich, softer, rounder palate typical of the appellation (when compared to Pommard or Beaune). Still retains the minerality that makes 2010 so special. A really lovely example of what Chambolle should produce.
Jancis Robinson: Juicy red fruit, quite primary and juvenile. Enjoyable. 16.5+ Points
Pleasant ridge reserve, beets, lemon, thyme
2010 Domaine A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Clos de la Fontaine Monopole (US$85.99)
From a parcel of 35 ares. One of the strengths of the A-F Gros range are the three Vosne-Romanee Lieu-dits. Clos de la Fontaine is a beautifully balanced wine with all the spice you would expect from Vosne-omanee. Not a big wine but one that expresses the style and class of Vosne-Romanee with its bright, mineral infused flavours of berry and earth.
Jancis Robinson: Syrupy red cherry fruit, gentle tannins, bit of forest floor, supple and light with charming daintiness. 17 Points
schiller-wine: Related Postings
The Wine House Presented Winemaker Shane Finley from Russian River Valley in California at a Shane Wine Cellars Winemaker Dinner
The Premium Soliste Wines of Former Famous Chef and Now Famous Winemaker Claude Koeberle and the Great Food of Chef Patrick Bazin at Bazin’s on Church in Northern Virginia, USA
The Roots of Oregon Winemaker Chris Berg, the Art of Paul Klee, the Wine House of Michael Pearce and the Nice Legs of Al McCosh
Lunch with Pinot Noir Giant Walter Schug in Sonoma, California
Visiting Walter Schug and his Schug Carneros Estate Winery in Carneros, California
Wine Tasting: The Pinot Noirs of Patricia Green, Oregon, US
The Excellent Wines of Ken Wright Cellars, Oregon
Back to the Roots in the Bourgogne: WillaKenzie Estate Wines in Oregon - Winemaker Thibaud Mandet Presented WillaKenzie Wines at Open Kitchen, USA
Coming up: Germany Wine and Culture Tour August 2013
Coming up: Bordeaux Wine Tour September 2013