Following lunch at La Cabotte, the best restaurant in Nuits-Saint-George and one of the best restaurants in the Bourgogne region, we walked over to Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair for a tasting with Thibault Liger-Belair in the cellar of the domaine. We tasted from barrel and from bottle.
The domaine has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. The somewhat complicated history came to a happy end when Thibault LigerBelair took charge of the vines as winemaker and created Domaine Thibault LigerBelair in 2001. In 2003 he added parcels of Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, and in VosneRomanée to his vineyard portfolio. He also bought vineyards in the Beaujolais region, in MoulinàVent. He wants to farm biodynamically but it takes some transition time to convert the vineyards. Thibault is emerging as one of the few truly great winemakers in Nuits-Saint-George.
Vineyard Brands: Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George
This domaine, located in Nuits-St.-Georges, has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. In 2001, Vincent’s son, Thibault Liger-Belair, took over the vines as the winemaker and created Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault says “the whole of the crus composing the domaine and the tradition inherited of a long, family experience requires us today to work the vines with the utmost respect of the terroirs. The quality is primarily decided in the vineyard by attentive cultivation and that one must remain humble in front of the magic of our terroirs. For this reason, the whole of the domaine is cultivated in biological agriculture, both the treatment of the vines and the soil maintenance. I do not practice biological culture as a sacrifice to fashion but by vocation, since I feel that if we want to produce great wines, it is imperative to question each step of the process.”
The domaine, located in Nuits-St.-Georges, has almost 18 acres distributed among the following appellations:
Richebourg: 1.36 acres – planted in 1936
Clos Vougeot: 1.85 acres – planted in 1948
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Saint Georges: 5.19 acres – planted in 1944
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Petits-Monts: .247 acres – planted in 1954
Vosne Romanee aux Reas: 1.36 acres – planted in 1956
Nuits Saint Georges la Charmotte: .98 acre – planted in 1962
Gevrey-Chambertin les Croix des Champs: .49 acre – planted in 1964
Bourgogne les Grand Chaillots: 1.97 acres – planted in 1986
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits le Clos du Prieuré: 2.72 acres – planted in 1986
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits la Corvée de Villy: 1.73 acres – planted in 1988
and under T. Liger-Belair Successeur:
Corton Renardes Grand Cru: .914 acre – planted in 1965
Corton les Rognets Grand Cru: .44 acre – planted in 1960
The domaine has been in the Liger-Belair family for 250 years. In 1720, Claude Marey, the king’s secretary and mayor of Nuits, and a vineyard proprietor, founded the C. Marey house to sell his fine wines. His son, Claude Philibert Marey, also mayor of Nuits, died in 1804 and his youngest son, Guillaume Felix Marey, took over the business. In 1852 his nephew, Comte Liger-Belair, proprietor of Grands Crus in Vosne-Romanée, became his business partner under the name C. Marey et Comte Liger-Belair.
The domaine passed down through the family for the next 5 generations. In 1982 Xavier Liger-Belair died and the business was sold. That same year Xavier’s son, Vincent Liger-Belair, took over the buildings and restructured the domaine by having three sharecropper winemakers handle the work. Then in 2001, Vincent’s son, Thibault Liger-Belair, took over the vines as the winemaker and created Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair.
He simultaneously started T. Liger-Belair Successeur company. Having studied viticulture and oenology for six years, Thibault then worked for a communications firm in Paris where he was able to present and taste wines internationally. Two years later, he started an internet company with the idea of discovering and selling high quality wines. But the calling of the vines was still strong, so in 2001, at the age of 26, Thibault decided to jump to the other side of the fence, this time to make wine, his true calling and passion. The year 2002 was the first harvest of the Saint Georges appellation, Charmottes de Nuits as well as Vosne Romanee Aux Reas. In 2003, the domaine enriched and completed its range with Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Petits Monts and Bourgogne Rouge.
Three coopers are used at the domaine: Tonnelerie François Frères, Tonnellerie Mercurey and Tonnellerie Dominique Laurent. Thibault Liger-Belair closely follows the wood selection according to the texture and origin and imposes a three-year drying period before barrels are made. This allows the use of perfectly dry wood which obtains superior tannin quality, making them much silkier and delicate. Rarely is more than 50% new wood used at Domaine Liger-Belair. The wines are aged according to their appellations, between 14 and 18 months, without racking or any other aeration. They are neither fined nor filtered.
Philosophy - The Vines: Thibault says “the whole of the crus composing the domaine and the tradition inherited of a long, family experience requires us today to work the vines with the utmost respect of the terroirs. The quality is primarily decided in the vineyard by attentive cultivation and that one must remain humble in front of the magic of our terroirs. For this reason, the whole of the domaine is cultivated in biological agriculture, both the treatment of the vines and the soil maintenance. I do not practice biological culture as a sacrifice to fashion but by vocation, since I feel that if we want to produce great wines, it is imperative to question each step of the process. The six appellations that I cultivate are worked in different ways as to their soil and climate. The richness of our terroirs demands that we reflect on each individual parcel to be worked, rather than doing systematic work as if often done. The role I impose on myself consists in “listening” to the vine and observing it closely. My responsibility is to better answer its needs and thus to help it realize all its natural potential – not to require that it produce large quantities of grapes but to produce a limited quantity of exceptional quality.
Philosophy - The cellar: As I practice this philosophy in the production of grapes, I apply it to the vinification and raising of the wines, trying to produce crus of great purity, without artifice or abusive extraction. I am not trying to sign my wines but rather work in such a way that one may recognize the terroirs whence they are issued. I would find it difficult to explain to you my vinification method, as it differs every year. The only common point remains in bringing in the grapes in an irreproachable sanitary state and in handling each operation delicately. I am trying to infuse instead of extract. The less one mistreats the grape, the better the wine shall be.”
Thibault Liger-Belair bought a piece of property in the Beaujolais region, in the appellation Moulin-à-Vent, what many consider the top appellation in the region, and capable of living the longest of all the Beaujolais wines. 2009 was his first vintage there. Thibault will farm biodynamically, but it will take some years to transition the vineyards. He owns 8 acres and the average vine age is 60 years.
Bye-bye
Many thanks Thibault for an exceptional tasting.
Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours:From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Iconic Restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or, France - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France
Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Visit and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont, Villié-Morgon, Beaujolais - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Le Mercurey in Mercurey - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
At Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Nathalie Theulot - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of Château de Rully and Tasting of Domaine du Château de Rully Wines, with Count Raoul de Ternay - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Where Robert Parker likes to Eat: Lunch at La Crémaillère in Auxey-Duresses - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner at the 1 Michelin Star Restaurant Ed.Em in Chassagne Montrachet - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour, with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Lunch and Wine Tasting at La Table de Olivier in Puligny Montrachet with Olivier Leflaive – Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Visit: Hospices de Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Lunch in a Typical French Brasserie: Le Carnot in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Visit and Tasting: Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune– Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
An American Making Ultra-Premium Wines in Burgundy: Visit and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune, with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting Natural Wines with Maurice Marle at Chez Maurice in Beaune - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits St. Georges - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting from Barrel at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey, Côte de Nuits, with Owner/ Winemaker Louis Meunier - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George with Thibault Liger-Belair
Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot
Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon
An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion
Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard
Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Champagne– An Introduction, France
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne
Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims