Our Lyon visit culminated in lunch at L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s iconic restaurant in Collonges au Mont d’Or. This restaurant is a holy grail of classical cooking. Since 1965, it defends its 3 Michelin stars. Paul Bocuse was a chef who pushed boundaries and is still a benchmark for technical perfection in the kitchen.
Paul Bocuse turned 90 earlier this year and is no longer standing in the kitchen himself. Until recently, he used to come to the restaurant to greet his guests, but he no longer does this. We were greeted by Madame Bocuse.
Although Paul Bocuse was not there in person he was clearly there in spirit. Nothing has changed since the days when he stood behind the stove. All the classics of Paul Bocuse are on the menu. We had as fish course the famous Loup en croûte feuilletée sauce Choron; it was cooked and presented probably the same way as it has been for the past 30, 40, 50 years. The only thing that was different from 30, 40, 50 years ago was that Paul was not cooking in the kitchen.
Arriving
We were guided into the building by Daniel and Said, who both have been working for Paul Bocuse several decades.
The Kitchen
Paul Bocuse no longer is in the kitchen. Christophe Muller is the Executive Chef (including the other restaurants of Paul Bocuse) and Gilles Reinhardt is the Chef de Cuisine.
Christophe Muller (from Alsace) took over as Executive Chef in September 2011 (from Christian Bouvarel) after over 20 years in Paul Bocuse's kitchen. Gilles Reinhardt, after haveing worked in the kitchen of Paul Bocuse before, was rehired as Sous-Chef in 2000.
During the dinner I had a chance to sneak into the kitchen.
Madame Raymonde Bocuse Welcomed us
Until not too long ago, Paul Bocuse would welcome his guests. Now, it is done by his wife Raymonde, who also turned 90 earlier this year.
The Menu
You can eat a la carte or choose between 3 menus: Le menu Classique (Euro 165), Le menu Bourgeois (Euro 225)and Le menu Grande Tradition (Euro 265. Annette had ordered for us the MENU CLASSIQUE and chosen the courses. A la carte, our first course was Euro 55, the fish course Euro 75, the cheese course Euro 35 and the dessert also Euro 35.
MENU CLASSIQUE (Euro 165)
Dodine de canard à l’ancienne pistachée et foie gras de canard maison
Loup en croûte feuilletée sauce Choron
Sélection de fromages frais et affinés «Mère Richard»
Délices et gourmandises
Baba au rhum "Tradition"
Oeufs à la neige Grand Mère Bocuse
Salade de fruits frais
Fruits rouges
Tarte sablée aux fruits frais de saison
Coupe de fruits rouges beaujolaise
Crème brûlée à la cassonade Sirio
Entremets de saison
Gâtea u Président Maurice Bernachon
Glaces et sorbets maison
Petits fours, mignardises et chocolats
Our Table
Choosing the Wines
Champagne
Greetings from the Kitchen
First Course: Dodine de Canard à l’Ancienne Pistachée et Foie Gras de Canard Maison
Main Course: Loup en Croûte Feuilletée Sauce Choron
Cheese Course: Sélection de Fromages Frais et Affinés «Mère Richard»
Dessert
Petits fours, mignardises et chocolats
Leaving
What a memorable meal! Thanks very much Paul Bocuse.
Postings: Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History
Dinner at a Bouchon - Chez Paul - in Lyon: Schiller’s Favorite Bouchons in Lyon, France
Introduction to the Burgundy Wine Region at Antic Wine in Lyon with Flying Sommelier Georges Dos Santos - Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at the Iconic L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant in Collonges-au-Mont d’Or
In the Most Prestigious AOC in the Mâconnais: Pouilly-Fuissé, France
Vineyard Walk, Cellar Walk and Tasting at Domaine Ferret in Fuissé, Poully Fuissé, Mâconnais, with Winemaker Audrey Braccini
Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Georges Descombes in Vermont,Villié Morgon, Beaujolais, with Madame Descombes
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Theulot-Juillot in Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, with Ow ner/ Winemaker Nathalie Juillot
Visit of Château de Rully and Tasting of the Château de Rully Wines with Count Raoul de Ternay
Cellar Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Domaine Michel Prunier & Fille in Auxey Duresses, Côte de Beaune, with Michel Prunier
Vineyard walk in Meursault with Karoline Knoth
Maison Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet, Côte de Beaune: Vineyard Walk and Cellar Tour with Olivier and Patrick Leflaive along with Sommelier Charles Devarennes
Wine Pairing Lunch at Restaurant La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet
Visit of the Hospice de Beaune
Lunch at Brasserie le Carnot in Beaune
Tour of the Ancient Cellars and Tasting at Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, Côte de Beaune
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Beaune, Bourgogne
An American in Burgundy: Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Dublère in Savigny lès Beaune with Owner/ Winemaker Blair Pethel
Charcuterie and Cheese Paired with 12 Burgundy Wines at La Maison de Maurice in Beaune with Maurice Marle
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuits-Saint-George, Côte de Nuits
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Prémeaux-Prissey Côte de Nuits with Louis Meunier
Lunch at Restaurant La Cabotte in Nuits-Saint-George
Visit and Tasting at Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair in Nuits-Saint-George with Thibault Liger-Belair
Visit of Château du Clos de Vougeot
Where the Most Expensive Red Wines Come from: Vineyard Walk, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Anne Gros in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon
An Institution: Lunch at Restaurant Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Armelle et Bernhard Rion in Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, with Alice Rion
Tour at the Fontenay Abbey (Bernard de Clairveau), Montbard
Wine Pairing Lunch, Cellar Visit, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Domaine Jean Marc Brocard in Préhy, Chablis
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars and other Wine Venues in Chablis, France
Champagne– An Introduction, France
French Champagne Houses and German Roots
Visit and Tasting at the Grower Champagne House Champagne Jean Josselin in Gyé sur Seine, Champagne, with Jean Pierre Josselin, his Wife and Sharona Tsubota
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House AR Lenoble in Epernay, Champagne, with Export Manager Christian Holthausen
Cellar Visit and Tasting at the Champagner House Taittinger in Reims, Champagne
Lunch at Brasserie Flo in Reims