As part of the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference, My wife Annette and I spent a couple of days in Logroño in La Rioja, which has an amazing Tapas Bar scene.
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The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja
Let me quote Norman Miller (The Guardian, Saturday 1 August 2009): While tapas are ubiquitous in Spain, the question of who serves up the best is divisive. Granada, the spiritual home of the tapa, has a good shout, and it's also one of the few places where they are still offered free with a drink. Seville probably has the most atmospheric old bars, but not the best tapas, while San Sebastian's elaborate pintxos, as they're called in Basque, are delicious works of art.
But my vote goes to Logroño, the untouristy capital of La Rioja, for the sheer concentration of tapas bars in its medieval old town.
Norman Miller goes on: Almost 50 are crammed into a single block about the size of four tennis courts. I counted 24 in 100 steps along Calle del Laurel, 13 in 50 paces along Travesía del Laurel. Calle San Agustin and Calle Albornoz complete the circuit with a dozen more. Hemingway treated his taste buds here during his Iberian travels, while King Juan Carlos has given them his royal seal of approval.
This concentration grew from old wine shops (envas) that once sold Rioja's wine in these narrow medieval streets. The wine business has now shifted to nearby Haro, whose historic centre has a tiny tapas circuit of its own known as "The Horseshoe".
With so many bars in so little space you might expect fierce competition, but Logroño, on the river Ebro and a stop-off point for pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela, has worked out a simple solution - each bar specialises in just two or three dishes. "There are no rivals here," says Lourdes Sainz, as I start a lunchtime progress along Travesia del Laurel at her brightly-coloured Bar Lorenzo, mingling with blokes on a booze-and-a-bite warm-up for a long Spanish lunch.
Wendy Crispell, who also participated in the 2013 Digital Wine Communication Conference, shared my enthusiasm for the Tapas Bars in Logroño and has written about them on her blog. Here are 4 Tapas bars she visited and which she liked very much. You may also want to check the official website of Calle Laurel.
Pulpería La Universidad. Founded in 1978 this is the place to enjoy octopus, in MANY forms! From the most incredibly tender fried version to a simple but deadly preparation Galician style, dressed simply with olive oil and paprika. Also enjoy a Galician wine served in porcelain dishes, a tradition of the region.
Donosti. This brightly lit counter style spot is THE place to stop for foie! Glazed with a sweet violet jam and washed down with a local cider or wine. You will be tempted to order two but save room for their potato and ham croquettes as well. Slamming good!
Angel Bar. Who would think 3 stacked mushrooms, doused in a garlic butter and topped with a single shrimp could taste sooooo good? Simplicity rules. This is said to be a secret recipe passed down from Angel Villanueva who opened this gem in 1960. Today his daughter and grandson proudly grill their family secret in view of customers enjoying wines poured from over 20 local vineyards.
Meson del Abuelo. This comfy spot is packed with locals eating both at the counter and in a cozy dining room serving steak, chops and seafood. My pick here is the chorizo cooked down with cider, with a bit of the same to wash it down with! A list of over 30 different Spanish wines is offered at an extremely reasonable price.
Schiller’s Favorites
This posting is part of the Schiller’s favorites series.
Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City, France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Berlin, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Seattle, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Washington DC, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Restaurants, Brasseries, Bistros, Cafes and Wine Bars in Paris, France
Schiller’s Favorite Crab Houses in the Washington DC Region, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in New York City, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Charleston, South Carolina, USA
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in London, UK
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Wine Spots in Vienna, Austria
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in San Francisco, USA
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Budapest, Hungary
Schiller’s 12 Favorite Restaurants of Antananarivo, the Capital of Madagascar
Schiller's Favorite Apple Wine Taverns in Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria (2011)
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Mainz, Germany
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars and Other Places Where You Can Have a Glass of Wine in Healdsburg, California
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The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja
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Schiller’s Favorite Tapas Bars in Logroño in La Rioja, Spain
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