In this former coaching inn on the banks of the Loire, you can enjoy the modern cuisine of chef Jean-François Beauduin, who learned the ropes in starred establishments. His tempting menu abounds in seasonal, local produce and stars a wonderful culinary lineup of dishes such as roast pollock, carrot greens and confit ginger. It would be a crime not to sample the soufflé flambéed in cognac with vanilla ice cream on the side. The menu also features a number of more traditional local dishes, like a “beuchelle tourangelle” (creamed kidneys and sweetbreads). Gracious service by the chef's wife, in a pleasantly rustic setting and special mention for the tree-lined shaded terrace.
Gilles Pudlowsky
Il est le nouveau classique du Val de Loire. Jean-Francois Beauduin, natif de Cognac, qu’on découvrit jadis en adjoint de Rémy Giraud à Onzain aux domaine des Hauts de Loire. Ce jeune (31 ans) ancien de chez Bernard Loiseau à Saulieu, Arnaud Lallement à Tinqueux et Jerome Nutile à Nîmes au Mas de Boudan, s’est installé dans une ancienne des bords de Loire où il pratique la tradition ligérienne avec art.
Tout ce qu’il réalise possède le ton de l’évidence : filet de caille poché, avec la cuisse en pâte chaud au foie gras, son condiment de raisin et jus de verjus, Saint Jacques poêlées aux légumes racines (cerfeuil, topinambours), sa sauce mousseuse au vin jaune, lièvre à la royale en deux façons : à la manière Escoffier présenté traditionnellement avec foie gras, sauce au sang et aux abats, mais aussi celle du sénateur Couteaux en filaments vinaigré façon Parmentier en crème de pommes de terre.
On y ajoute un impeccable soufflé flambé au cognac Baché-Gabrielsen – bon sang charentais ne saurait mentir -, avec sa crème glacée à la vanille. Les vins au verre suivent le fil de la Loire en des chemins parfois imprévus, comme ce blanc Lucile au domaine des Vaucornelles à Onzain ou ce rouge issue de syrah, eh oui, en terre de cabernet franc, signée Philippe Pain au domaine de la Commanderie à Panzoult.
Le lieu a du charme, avec ses tables bien mises, sa charpente en bois apparente et les menus sont fort bien équilibrés et très raisonnables, comme le premier à 33 € qui vaut çà Jean-François son « bib » chez Michelin. Nul doute que ses aspirations aillent au-delà…
Welcome
Aperitif
Amuse-bouche
Viande/ Poisson
Cheese Cart
Instead of bringing us a plate of pre-selected cheeses, a cart full of cheese was wheeled to our table, the cheeses explained, and we had the ability to choose whichever we liked.
Dessert
Soufflé flambé au Cognac, crème glacée à la vanille
Accompagné d'un verre de cognac 2cl
Américan Oak, Bache Gabrielsen, 5 €
My favorite.
Mignardises
Bye-bye
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