As part of the Sunday Wineries Tour of the 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference in Logroño, La Rioja, I visited Bodegas Bilbaínas in Haro. We were treated to a fun winery tour and a wonderful tasting by Head Winemaker Diego Pinilla Navarro and his Deputy.
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The 2013 Digital Wine Communications Conference (DWCC) in Logroño, Rioja
Bodegas Bilbaínas
Bodegas Bilbaínas is in the railway station quarter of Haro in the La Rioja region. It is one of the oldest wineries in Rioja.
In 1859, fleeing from the phylloxera plaguing French vineyards, the Savignon Frères et Cie company was set up in Haro to monitor the production process directly and to build a winery to make its wines, although these were destined for the French market. This was different from the other French companies that just established regular commerce of wines from Rioja to France, but not a winery.
After four decades from its creation and once philoxera had almost been eradicated from France, Savignon Frères decided to abandon the activity in Rioja and sell the facilities.
A group of businessmen from Bilbao bought the winery and renamed it: Bodegas Bilbaínas was incorporated in 1901. The new owners were very successful. Soon, Bodegas Bilbaínas became a reference brand for Rioja, to the extent that the Criança Ederra was chosen for daily consumption at the palace of King Alfonso XIII; in 1925, Bodegas Bilbaínas was awarded the title of Supplier to the Royal Household.
Hundred years later, in 1997, Codorníu acquired Bodegas Bilbaínas. Major investments were undertaken. The façades of the century-old buildings were remodeled.
Today, the Bodegas Bilbaínas’ vineyards total 256 hectares, planted mainly with the standard varieties Rioja Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano and Mazuelo. Of these, 120 hectares are around the winery. There are only 2 estate type wineries in Rioja - Bodegas Bilbaínas and Bodegas Murrietta Marques.
Bodegas Bilbaínas has the largest underground cellar in Rioja. But it is not used. For the aging of the wine, 19 000 oak barrels are available.
The portfolio includes the brands: La Vicalanda, Vendimia Especial, Viña Zaco and Viña Pomal. There is also a Cava (sparkling wine) called Royal Carlton.
Tasting Viña Pomal Wines
We ended the visit with a tasting of Viña Pomal wines, Bodegas Bilbainas’ signature wine. Viña Pomal stands out as one of Rioja’s oldest and most consistently high quality wines – a wine which has always remained true to the classic Rioja style. The grapes for Viña Pomal ‘s 100% Tempranillo wines come from its own vineyards which surround the winery. The origins of Viña Pomal date back to the launch of the Cepa Borgoña brand in 1904, although the first label to carry the Viña Pomal name was the 1908 vintage. Winston Churchill and Salvador Dali, among others, were fans of Viña Pomal.
Viña Pomal 2011 Crianza
Wine maker tasting notes: Deep Morello cherry red with violet hues. Black fruit, liquorice and subtle mineral notes. Cocoa and toasty notes from its aging in barrels. A supple, elegant, balanced and refreshing mouthfeel.
Viña Pomal 2009 Reserva
Wine maker tasting notes: Colour: Brilliance and clarity. Ruby with slight russet hues from aging. Nose: Clean, intense aromas. Dominant notes of red fruit intermingled with notes from aging: tobacco, truffle and vanilla. Mouthfeel: Good concentration with a long finish. With body and good acidity, characteristic of the Tempranillos from the Rioja Alta region.
Viña Pomal 2004 Gran Reserva
Viña Pomal 2008 Alto de la Caseta
Decanter: Dense blackberry, chewy textured layers of chocolate, cherry, vanilla and baking spice. Excellent now, but if you can manage waiting, will only grow to be exquisite.
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