Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Picture: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Picture: Tasting at Weingut Nigl with Martin Nigl and Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Nigl (14/20 Points Gault Millau) with Chef Bertram Nigl, Senftenberg, Kremstal - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
James Suckling (Stuart Pigott) recently released his list of Top 100 Wines (of the World) 2023.
James Suckling (Stuart Pigott): "The best values in the Top 100 list seem to originate from Austria, Germany and New Zealand. The top wines of South America used to represent value but they have doubled in price in recent years. Spain and Italy have also become very expensive. Two categories for relative values to consider are pinot noir and chardonnay from California. There were two bottles from the former category on our list, and three from the latter."
Austria and Germany each account for 7 wines of James Suckling's Top 100 wines, while Austria accounts for about 1% of the world production and Germany for about 2%.
See here for more details: James Suckling: "Austria and Germany make some of the world’s most affordable great wines with single-vineyard designations" - 14 Wines from Austria (7) and Germany (7) on James Suckling Top 100 Wines 2023 List
James Suckling (Stuart Pigott) also released his list of top 100 wines of Austria 2023 recently.
ombiasy WineTours with Annette Schiller: On the 2023 Austria tour by ombiasy WineTours with Annette Schiller, we visited many of the producers that are listed.
Below you find the Top 100 Wines of Austria 2023 by James Suckling/ Stuart Pigott, supplemented from with pictures from the 2023 Austria Tour by ombiasy WineTours as well as other pictures.
Pictures: Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott - Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
Stuart Pigott: Top 100 Wines of Austria 2023
Stuart Pigott: The position of Austrian wines right now is somewhat two-sided. On the one hand, the Alpine republic has never been more successful in exporting its wines around the globe, but on the other hand 2022 was quite a challenging vintage for the dry white wines for which it is best known. This was the result of the unusual weather pattern during the growing season, particularly the heavy rain in August.
Once again, gruner veltliner, the nation’s signature grape, took the biggest hit from this unhelpful situation, just as it did for the opposite reason (drought) in 2017 and 2018. That’s why there are fewer gruners on this year’s list than there were last year. There’s another more general reason for the relatively small number of 2022 dry whites on this list, and that’s the number of late-released 2021s we were wowed by.
Our Austrian Wine of the Year, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Unendlich 2021, is a perfect example of this. Yes, we loved Lucas Pichler’s 2022 single-vineyard rieslings and gruner veltliners, and they are among the stars of the vintage. However, this wine and his F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Wachau Unendlich 2021, in 21st place, are just more expressive and more exciting. Both these wines are only produced when super-ripe and clean grapes can be gathered in a decent quantity, and of these two the riesling has the most charisma.
This is not the first time the Riesling Unendlich has been named Austrian Wine of the Year, The 2017 vintage also had the honor in 2018. And the F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Kellerberg 2020 was our Austrian Wine of the Year in 2021. These are all powerful wines, however, the alcohol levels in most of this producer’s wines have come down a long way compared with five and more years ago. The idea that we always favor big wines is nonsense, as last year’s Austrian Wine of the Year, the Nigl Riesling Kremstal Ried Hochäcker EL Privat 2021, proves. It is a masterpiece of filigree and delicacy!
Some print and online publications have recently made a big noise about Austrian reds, as if they were something startlingly new. We’ve been very excited about them for quite a few years. Two reds in our Top 10 should be no surprise if you read this list last year and the year before. Nor should the Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2021 grabbing second place (it was also No. 9 on our Top 100 World Wines 2023 list) thanks to its combination of aromatic complexity and great finesse on the highly structured palate. The wines Roland Velich makes at Moric has been impressing us since we first tasted the 2002 vintage exactly 20 years ago.
Coming in at No. 3 is the highest-placed dry white of the 2022 vintage, the Rudi Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Achleithen Smaragd 2022. This is an unbelievably mineral and racy wine with gigantic depth. It comes from a southwest-facing parcel in this famous Ried Achleithen site that would have been considered second-rate a generation ago compared with the main part of the site, which faces south-southeast over the Danube River. A combination of climate change and precise viticulture by Rudi Pichler and his family, with lots of fine-tuning by hand, made this masterpiece.
By the way, the Prager Riesling Wachau Ried Klaus Smaragd 2022, our No. 9 Austrian wine, comes from the next-door vineyard site, the likewise steep and terraced Ried Klaus. This is another mightily mineral dry white with tremendous drive and precision. Winemaker Toni Bodenstein’s first amazing vintage of riesling from the Ried Klaus was the 1990, so this is a wine with a very long track record. It is also the star of stunning range.
Few of the world’s millions of chardonnay fans think of Austria, which is a shame, because there are some amazing wines. None more so than our No. 4 wine, the Velich Chardonnay Austria Tiglat 2021. This is the best vintage to date of this deep and highly structured wine made by Heinz Velich, the bother of Roland Velich at Moric.
At No. 6, the Kollwentz Chardonnay Burgenland Gloria 2021 is another amazing wine with a breathtaking textural complexity. It is just one of a trio of single-vineyard chardonnays Andi Kollwentz produces each year, and in 2021 all of them were stunners. By the way, this is a single-vineyard wine, but unusually doesn’t carry the word “Ried” – the legal designation for single-vineyard wines. It comes from a high-altitude site with limestone soil similar to that in Burgundy.
The leading producers of the Steiermark, also known in the English-speaking world as Styria, have made great strides forward with the sauvignon blanc grape during the last decade. At No. 5, the Wohlmuth Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Edelschuh GSTK 2021 shows that this wines can combine power with brilliance and mineral freshness. This comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the entire country and you really taste the drama of that landscape!
The No. 8 and No. 9 spots are taken by two more exciting dry rieslings. You may wonder why the Hirsch Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL 2022 sits one step above the Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Wachau Ried Singerriedel Smaragd 2022, even though the latter was rated one point higher. It’s because Wine Searcher gives the global average price of the Hirsch wine as $65 and that of the Hirtzberger wine as exactly double that, $130. All our Top 100 lists favor wines that are moderate in price. However, either wine should be pretty mind-blowing.
At No. 10 is the Dorli Muhr Blaufränkisch Carnuntum Ried Spitzerberg Obere-Spitzer EL 2020– the most exciting expression of the blaufrankisch grape from outside of Burgenland, where most of the vineyards planted with this grape in Austria are concentrated. In spite of its excellent concentration, this is an extremely filigree and subtle wine that’s just beginning to show what it’s made of. It’s an amazing showing from a winemaker, Dorli Muhr, whose day job is running the Wine + Partners PR company!
Read the whole list to discover more of the diversity of regions, grape varieties and wine styles that make Austria so fascinating. However, if you are after one of the wines at the top of this, then don’t hesitate, hurry to grab what bottles you can!
1F.X. Pichler Riesling Wachau Unendlich 2021
Pictures: Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2021
3Rudi Pichler Riesling Wachau Ried Achleithen Smaragd 2022
4Velich Chardonnay Austria Tiglat 2021
5Wohlmuth Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Edelschuh GSTK 2021
Pictures: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
6Kollwentz Chardonnay Burgenland Gloria 2021
7Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Wachau Ried Singerriedel Smaragd 2022
8Hirsch Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL 2022
9Prager Riesling Wachau Klaus Smaragd 2022
10Dorli Muhr Blaufränkisch Carnuntum Ried Spitzerberg-Obere Spitzer EL 2020
11Bründlmayer Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL Alte Reben 2021
12Alzinger Riesling Wachau Ried Loibenberg Smaragd 2022
13Kracher Welschriesling Burgenland Trockenbeerenauslese Nummer 6 2020
14Huber Riesling Traisental Ried Berg EL 2022
15Emmerich Knoll Riesling Wachau Vinothekfüllung Smaragd 2022
16Tement Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Zieregg Kapelle GSTK 2020
17Schuster Blaufränkisch Burgenland St. Margarethen 2020
18Birgit Eichinger Riesling Kamptal Ried Gaisberg EL 2022
19Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Wagram Ried Rosenberg EL 2021
20Stagård Riesling Kremstal Ried Steiner Hund 2021
21F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Wachau Unendlich 2021
22Nigl Riesling Kremstal Ried Hochäcker EL Privat 2022
Pictures: Tasting at Weingut Nigl with Martin Nigl and Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Nigl (14/20 Points Gault Millau) with Chef Bertram Nigl, Senftenberg, Kremstal - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
23Sommer Riesling Austria Handwerk 2021
24Grabenwerkstatt Riesling Wachau Ried Bruck Trocken 2022
25Domaene Roland Chan Riesling Wachau Ried Klaus Smaragd 2021
26Lackner Tinnacher Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Flamberg GSTK 2021
27Gross Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Nussberg GSTK 2019
28Nikolaihof Riesling Wachau Vinothek 1997
29Proidl Riesling Kremstal Ried Hochäcker EL 2022
31Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland Reserve 2021
32Frauwallner Sauvignon Blanc Vulkanland Steiermark Privat 2019
33Erwin Sabathi Chardonnay Südsteiermark Ried Pössnitzberger Alte Reben GSTK 2021
34Wachter-Wiesler Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Ried Weinberg Reserve 2020
35Toni Hartl Blaufränkisch Leithaberg Ried Eisner 2019
36Heinrich Blaufränkisch Leithaberg Ried Alter Berg 2019
37Martin Netzl Blaufränkisch Carnuntum Ried Spitzerberg EL 2021
38Fuhrgassl-Huber Riesling Wien Ried Preussen EL 2022
39Krutzler Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Ried Weinberg Reserve 2017
40Stadt Krems Riesling Kremstal Ried Schreck EL 2022
41Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Achleithen Smaragd 2022
42Kollwentz Chardonnay Burgenland Ried Tatschler 2021
43Velich Chardonnay Austria Tiglat 2020
44Josef Jamek Riesling Wachau Ried Klaus Smaragd 2022
45F.J. Gritsch Riesling Wachau Ried Loibenberg Smaragd 2022
46Velich Chardonnay Austria Darscho 2021
47Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz Ried Ulm Nussberg EL 2021
Pictures: Christian Schiller with Fritz Wieninger (above) and the WienWein Group (below) at the Heurigen Mayer am Pfarrplatz in Vienna. From left to right: Georg Koenigsbauer (Cellar Master Weingut Coblenzl), Gerhard J. Lobner (General manager Weingut Mayer am Pfarrplatz), Alexander Skoff (Cellar Master Weingut Zahel), Fritz Wieninger (Owner and Cellar Master Weingut Wieninger), Wolfgang Krinninger (Sales Manager Weingut Zahel), Rainer Christ (Owner and Cellar Master Weingut Christ). See: With the WienWein Winemakers in Vienna in the Heurigen Drinking Gemischter Satz Wine
48Polz Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Hochgrassnitzberg GSTK 2021
49Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Alter Kranachberg GSTK 2021
50Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Schütt Smaragd 2022
51Hirsch Riesling Kamptal Heiligenstein-Rotfels EL 2022
52Prager Grüner Veltliner Wachau Zwerithaler Kammergut Smaragd 2022
53Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Ried Käferberg EL 2021
54Schuster Grüner Veltliner Burgenland Ried Ungerberg 2022
55Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Schütt Smaragd 2022
Picture: Emmerich Knoll, Weingut Knoll, and Christian G.E. Schiller. See: Austrian Wines and Winemakers at the 2nd International Riesling Symposium in Germany (Rheingau)56Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Wachau Honivogl Smaragd 2022
57Dorli Muhr Blaufränkisch Carnuntum Ried Spitzerberg-Obere Roterd EL 2020
58Josef & Philipp Bründlmayer Riesling Kremstal Credo 2022
59Gesellmann Burgenland Cuvée G 2018
60Neumeister Grauburgunder Vulkanland Steiermark Ried Saziani GSTK 2021
61Huber Riesling Traisental Ried Rothenbart EL 2022
62Nikolaihof Riesling Wachau Baumpresse 2015
63Nigl Grüner Veltliner Kremstal Ried Pellingen EL Privat 2022
64Birgit Eichinger Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL 2022
65Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Ried Stein EL 2021
66Erwin Sabathi Chardonnay Südsteiermark Ried Pössnitzberg GSTK 2021
67Grabenwerkstatt Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Brandstatt Trocken 2022
68Gross Morillon Südsteiermark Ried Nussberg Preschnigg GSTK 2019
69Lackner Tinnacher Weissburgunder Südsteiermark Ried Steinbach Kogel 1STK 2021
70Neumeister Morillon Vulkanland Steiermark Ried Moarfeitl GSTK 2021
71Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Kamptal Ried Gaisberg EL 2021
72Stagård Riesling Kremstal Ried Steiner Pfaffenberg 2021
73Thom Wachter Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Ried Szapary Reserve 2020
74Wachter-Wiesler Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Ried Ratschen Reserve 2020
75Tement Morillon Südsteiermark Ried Grassnitzberg STK 2020
76Alzinger Riesling Wachau Ried Steinertal Smaragd 2022
77Sommer Grüner Veltliner Leithaberg Halser EL 2021
78Brandl Riesling Kamptal Ried Kogelberg EL 2022
79Christoph Donabaum Riesling Wachau Ried 1000-Eimerberg Smaragd 2022
80Ebner-Ebenauer Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich Black Edition 2020
81F.J. Gritsch Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Hochrain Smaragd 2022
82Salomon Undhof Riesling Kremstal Ried Steiner Kögl EL 2022
83Loimer Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Ried Käferberg EL 2021
84Jurtschitsch Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein-Rotfels EL 2021
85Hiedler Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL 2022
86Johann Donabaum Riesling Wachau Limitierte Edition Smaragd 2021
87Leindl Riesling Kamptal Ried Heiligenstein EL 2022
88Hajszan Neumann Riesling Wien Ried Steinberg EL 2022
89Türk Riesling Kremstal Ried Kremser Wachtberg EL 2021
90Topf Riesling Kamptal Ried Wechselberg Spiegel EL 2022
91Kracher Burgenland Beerenauslese Cuvée 2020
92Kopfensteiner Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Ried Reihburg Reserve 2017
93Malat Riesling Kremstal Ried Steinbühel EL 2021
94Markowitsch Carnuntum Ried Rosenberg EL 2021
95Machherndl Grüner Veltliner Wachau Ried Kollmitz Smaragd 2021
96Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Kremstal Ried Steinleithn EL 2021
97Primus Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Zieregg 2020
98Maitz Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark Ried Hochstermetzberg GSTK 2020
99Stadlmann Zierfandler Thermenregion Ried Mandel-Höh 2022
100Johanneshof Reinisch Rotgipfler Thermenregion Ried Satzing EL 2022
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ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
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