Chris Morris is the Master Distiller of Brown-Foreman, including Woodford Reserve, the ultra-premium Bourbon Whiskey from Kentucky in the US. He recently spent a couple of days in Germany to promote his Whiskey and American Whiskey in general, including at a Whiskey tasting and dinner at the Grand Cru Bistro in Frankfurt and at the “Im Schiffchen” in Duesseldorf as well as the Bar Convent in Berlin.
See:
American Whiskey Producers in Germany
Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland
18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany
With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany
An American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner with Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris at “Im Schiffchen” (2 Stars Michelin) in Duesseldorf, Germany
A less official event was a visit of a Rheingau winemaker, Désirée Eser, Weingut August Eser, in Oestrich Winkel (Rheingau). There are many winemakers that we could have visited on the route from Frankfurt to Duesseldorf, but I called Désirée Eser because I remembered that she had studied in California. It was a short visit, but both the visiters and the hosts enjoyed it very much. Désirée Eser started to import her wine to the US and Chris Morris, after tasting the wines, is very eager to have the Weingut August Eser wines distributed in Kentucky, where he lives.
The Rheingau
It is remarkable: For its entire length of nearly 560 miles, the Rhine flows north with one exception – a 28-mile stretch where the river changes its course. Here, it flows to the west, thereby enabling both the river and the vineyards facing it to bask in the warmth of the sun all day long. This is the Rheingau, one of the medium-size German wine regions. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Queen Victoria's enthusiasm for Hochheim's wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock.
The third President of the USA - and notable bon viveur - Thomas Jefferson visited the Rheingau in 1788 and wrote that the wine of the "Abbaye of Johnsberg is the best made on the Rhine without comparison … That of the year 1775 is the best." He also referred to the Rheingau’s Riesling as the "small and delicate Rhysslin which grows only from Hochheim to Rudesheim". Impressed by the quality of the Rheingau Riesling wines, he bought 100 grapevines to take back to his estate in Virginia.
Woodford Reserve
Woodford Reserve is the smallest of the about 20 distilleries in Kentucky. It is unique in using a triple distillation method. This employs three copper pot stills, built in Scotland. Woodford Reserve is operated by the Louisville-based Brown-Forman Distiller Corporation, which also owns Jack Daniels.
Woodford Reserve traces its origins back to 1797, when Elijah Pepper moved from Virginia to Versailles, where he distilled corn whiskey in a small distillery behind the county courthouse. In 1812 he moved his operation to the present site on Glenn's Creek. In 1941 Brown-Forman bought the distillery used it to produce their Early Times whiskey. By the 1960s Bourbon sales were falling and Brown- Forman sold the distillery to a local farmer. The buyer proceeded to make the car fuel substitute 'gasohol' in the distillery for a short period, but when that venture failed, the distillery lay silent for 23 years. Then, in 1994, with interest in 'small batch' Bourbon rising, Brown-Forman bought back the semi-derelict site and restored it to showpiece condition. In 2003, the present Woodford Reserve name was adopted for both the distillery and its whiskey.
Between 40 and 50 barrels a day are filled at Woodford Reserve distillery. The resultant whiskey is bottled at six to seven years of age. The mashbill comprises 72 per cent corn, 18 per cent rye and 12 per cent malted barley. Bourbon whiskey must be at least 51% corn, and many bourbons are as high as 80%. A bourbon mashbill with 18% Rye is fairly high and helps distinguish Woodford Reserve’s slightly spicy character.
In the Brown-Forman family, a lot of time and attention is paid to Jack Daniels, the whiskey from Tennessee, and for good reason: it’s one of the best selling spirits in America. Although Jack Daniels gets lots of attention, it’s Woodford Reserve that is the crown jewel in Brown-Forman portfolio. Run by master distiller Chris Morris, Woodford Reserve focuses on producing small batch premium bourbon.
Chris Morris
Chris Morris is seventh Master Distiller for Brown-Forman, since the company began in 1870. A Louisville native, Chris Morris has grown up around bourbon his whole life. His dad was a production manager, and his mother worked in the art department at Brown-Forman. His career with Brown-Forman began in 1976, as a trainee. Chris Morris holds a bachelor’s degree in business administration from Bellarmine College in Louisville, a master’s degree in liberal arts from Texas Christian University, and a master’s degree in marketing from Webster University.
At Weingut August Eser in Oestrich Winkel
Weingut August Eser is a small, family owned winery in Oestrich in the Rheingau, producing 6000 cases of first class Riesling and Spaetburgunder annually.
The first time I tasted the wines of Weingut August Eser was many years ago in Duesseldorf; my cousin was a big fan of the wines of Weingut August Eser and always served them when he invited.
Désirée Eser Eser: “Our family-winery in the heart of the German wine growing region Rheingau has 10 hectares of 90% Riesling and 10% Pinot Noir grapes. Our cellar dates back to 1650 and it is here that our wines mature and develop their lively aromatic character which is fruity and floral. Our wines are made in both dry and balanced sweet styles. As a member of the VDP, our goal is to produce top quality, distinctive wines. 95% of our production is sold in Germany. I have justed started to export to the US – through “The Varietal” in California and AP Wines in New York.”
See:
Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany
Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, at the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany
Désirée Eser
Désirée Eser is the granddaughter of August Eser (she is the youngest of his grandchildren), after whom the winery is named. Desiree took over from her parents Joachim and Renee Eser, who remain very active in the winery, in 2007. She is the first Eser woman at the helm of Weingut August Eser, in the 10th generation.
Désirée Eser has a distinguished educational background. She got the “Abitur” (the highest high school degree in Germany), did a 3 years apprenticeship at Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf /Pfalz, spent a year at UC Davis in California and finished with a Masters Degree from the University of Geisenheim (Diplom Ingenieurin für Weinbau und Önologie).
Dirk Wuertz, one of Germany’s leading wine bloggers and himself a distinguished winemaker, says: “Desirée Eser is a figurehead of the new winemaker generation in the Rheingau. With a distinguished education and international experience, she very successfully leads this traditional winery in the heart of Oestrich in the Rheingau. Her wines are true Rheingau classics, true and honest expressions of the terroir they come from. The vineyard portfolio of Weingut Eser is amazing, including the best sites all over the Rheingau.”
The Weingut August Eser Grand Cru Vineyards
Désirée Eser: “Our vineyards are spread over 17different single sites in eight different villages along the Rheingau region. This is quite unusual, however it offers you the opportunity to enjoy the Rheingau region in its whole diversity. Seven of the vineyards belong to the group of Germany’s absolute finest vineyards. This top level category of vineyards has just been renamed to Grosse Lage (Grand Cru in Bourgogne): Oestricher Lenchen, Oestrich Doosberg, Erbacher Siegelsberg, Winkeler Jesuitengarten, Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen, Rauenthaler Rothenberg and Winkel Hasensprung."
The Weingut August Eser Wine Portfolio
Désirée Eser took us through the Weingut August Eser wine portfolio. She started out by the essentials in terms of their winemaking philosophy:
“- selective harvesting by hand
- several selections of the grapes on the vine
- limited yield
- sensitive crushing and processing of the grapes
- slow and controlled fermentation for a better flavour development
- fermentation in wood barrels in combination with stainless steel tanks
- red wines in traditional wood barrels and barriques."
The Weingut August Eser wine portfolio consists of 4 different groups:
Trockene Rieslinge und Blanc de Noir- Dry Riesling and Blanc de Noir wines: A large range of dry wines, from an Estate Wine for Euro 6.10 to the ultra-premium VDP.Grosses Gewaechs wines for Euro 19.80.
Feinherbe Rieslinge - Feinherbe Rieslinge – Off-dry Rieslings: About a dozen Kabinett and Spaetlese Rieslings fermented in an off-dry style. It includes: 2011 Riesling 10. Generation "My way" Riesling Kabinett, which is a very personal wine of Désirée Eser.
Vollmundige und edelsüße Rieslinge – Fruity-sweet and noble-sweet Riesling wines: 14 wines, mostly in the Auslese level, including a 2010 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese for Euro 33.
Spätburgunder – Pinot Noir: 5 red wines.
Hier ist der Schaum ein Traum... - Sparklers: 2 wines, a “Perlwein” and a Sekt, brut.
schiller-wine: Related Postings
American Whiskey Producers in Germany
Amerikanische Whiskey Hersteller in Deutschland
18 US Distillers at Bar Convent Berlin 2013, Germany
With Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris on a Whiskey Tour in Frankfurt, Duesseldorf and Berlin, Germany
An American Whiskey Tasting and a Dinner with Woodford Reserve Master Distiller Chris Morris at “Im Schiffchen” (2 Stars Michelin) in Duesseldorf, Germany
Hanging out with Rheingau Winemakers: Dirk Wuertz, Desiree Eser, Alexander Jakob Jung, Hansi Bausch and Christian Ress in Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany
Meeting Winemaker/Owner Desiree Eser, Weingut August Eser, at the Banks of the Rhein River in the Rheingau in Germany