Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 - Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
For international wine lovers the Wachau is probably the best known wine region in Niederösterreich, specializing in dry Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. It is a tiny sub wine region and the westernmost wine producing region with only 3% of Austria’s wine production. It is incredibly beautiful. The steep terraced vineyards straddle the Danube river for about 16 kilometres. The Wachau came up with its own classification system for their dry wines: Steinfeder for wines up to 11.5% alc, Federspiel for wines between 11.5-12.5 % alc, and Smaragd for wines with a minimum of 12.5% alc. The Wachau is a UNESCO world heritage site. The Kremstal is sandwiched between the Wachau and the larger Kamptal.
At Weingut F.X. Pichler, we were received by Lucas Pichler. The visit consisted of a cellar tour and a seated tasting in the modern tasting room with a breathtaking view.
Weingut F.X. Pichler wines are widely available in the USA through Peter Weygandt.
Weingut F.X. Pichler, Dürnstein, Wachau, Niederösterreich
This family estate was founded in 1898 in Oberloiben and has since developed a reputation as one of the best Grüner Veltliner and Riesling specialists world-wide. In 1928 Franz Pichler sen. started to diligently study the quality of vineyards and individual vines and started to create his own clones. He wrote down his observations in a small notebook. Then he identified the best vines in each vineyard and choose to grow new vines from these plants for replanting. He continued to do this until 1952 and this Massal selection laid the foundation stone for the extraordinary quality of the F.X. Pichler wines.
Franz Xaver (FX) took over the estate in 1971 and his son Lucas joined the winery team in 1996, taking over winemaking at the estate in 1999. Since 2009 Lucas Pichler and his wife Johanna, who comes from a winemaker family in Germany’s Rheinhessen wine region, are at the helm of the estate.
Winery F.X. Pichler has 55 acres of vineyards, most of them in very steep terraces following the Danube river in the most famous sites in Loiben and Dürnstein. Robert Parker once described the estate as follows: ‘the Château Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbercht, of the Wachau’. In September 2022 wine critic James Suckling awarded the F.X. Pichler Riesling, Wachau, Ried Kellerberg 2021 with 100 points.
Icons of Precision: F.X. Pichler Superlative Riesling and Grüner Veltliner from a stellar 2021 Austrian vintage. Lucas Pichler surveys icons in the making.
This week, we’re returning to Austria’s stellar 2021 vintage and the magical Wachau, this time represented by the inimitable wines of F.X. Pichler. If a thorough understanding of the land is the key to unlocking the secrets of terroir, then Franz Xavier (F.X.) Pichler and his son Lucas have certainly found it. The Pichler family is known around the world for their singular focus on making wines that are precise, authentic interpretations of the region’s varied landscape. The family’s success is based on a fairly straightforward philosophy: move the grapes as little as possible, make no mistakes, avoid fining, and mature the wine according to variety and character. The hallmarks of F.X. Pichler wines have all been heightened by the exceptional 2021 harvest: clean and concentrated flavors and aromas, a densely structured palate, and long aging potential. These are certain to be iconic wines from an already iconic producer, and they are a pleasure to drink from day one.
The Pichler family estate was founded in 1898, but it was undoubtedly F.X.’s father—also Franz—who set the standard for the family’s drive to produce excellent wines. Starting in 1928, Franz senior diligently recorded his observations on the growth and quality of the estate’s individual vines in a notebook, a practice he continued until 1952. This meticulousness allowed him to take cuttings from the best producing vines—in particular, Grüner Veltliner—to replant in new vineyards, a practice known as selection massale.
When F.X. took over in 1971, the estate had just a modest three hectares of vines in Dürnstein but was already known as a specialist in Grüner Veltliner. The family’s quality-conscious practices have continued to this day, with the estate producing exceptional wines from 20 hectares of distinctive sites divided equally between Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Around 35 percent of the vines grow on steep, bedrock terraces with dry stone walls that can only be worked by hand. It is here where decades of intuition have been honed to transform these special sites into remarkable wines.
Special attention is given to employing sustainable approaches. In 2020, the estate’s practices from harvest to bottling were certified sustainable by the Austrian Winegrower’s Association. The family is also in the process of transitioning to organic viticulture and expects to become fully certified from the 2022 vintage.
Since 2009, the daily management of the estate has been overseen by F.X.’s son Lucas and his wife Johanna, but F.X. and his wife Rudolfine remain actively involved and are frequent presences in the vineyards and the cellar. “We want to make wines that are a true reflection of the year, the soil and the specific microclimate of the Wachau. Every wine should be unique and distinctive,” says F.X.
Beginning where it all started with Grüner Veltliner, the F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner 2021 is on the lighter end of the textural spectrum but with no loss of distinction. Produced from vineyards comprised of alluvial sand and gravel soils along the Danube River, this wine is elegant in structure and full of bright acidity and aromatic fruit character.
One of the oldest vineyards in the Wachau, Klostersatz was once cultivated by monks from Bavarian and Salzburg monasteries. It has a remarkably deep soil composition of fine sand and gravel that is ideal for Grüner Veltliner. The F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner Ried Klostersatz 2021 is nimble on the palate with notes of yellow and green apple, yellow tropical fruit, gentle minerality, and the signature Veltliner note of white pepper. A delightful representation of both the variety and the site.
From predominantly younger, organically farmed and terraced mountain vineyard plots around the village of Dürnstein, the F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Dürnsteiner 2021 is sleek and inviting. Bright notes of meadow grass, green apple, and crushed stone form a textural frame that conveys a lively energy right through to a saline finish.
Loibenberg is one of the steepest and largest continuous single vineyard sites in the region. The austere bedrock soils capture warmth during the day and radiate heat back into the vineyard at night, resulting in rich, bold, and elegant wines. The F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg 2021 is intense, mineral rich, and juicy, throwing grassy and herbal notes that complement a lingering palate of mineral and flint.
At the very eastern end of the Wachau is Steinertal, a site that starts as a rift and broadens into a south-facing amphitheater. The site capture plenty of sunshine and a nearby forest sends in a nocturnal breeze to cool things down, a slow-growing process that yields flavorful grapes. The F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Ried Steinertal 2021 is elegant and rich with notes of papaya, passion fruit, pineapple, and star fruit, buffeted by smoky stone overtones. Velvety and round on the palate, with fine acidity and a subtle spiciness on the finish.
Kellerberg is arguably the best single vineyard in the Wachau, with steep inclines, barren bedrock terraces, and an exceptional microclimate. Early morning sunshine facilitates grape ripening and at night, cool air from the surrounding woods help retain aromatic freshness and provide complex texture and finely nuanced minerality. The Grüner Veltliner Ried Kellerberg 2021 is a luscious portrayal of fruit that is deftly dealt with the typical light touch of the estate. Notes of honeydew melon, plums, overripe apricots, mango, passion fruit, flint, and a hint of tobacco leaf. Juicy on the palate but with plenty of finesse and balance. Precise minerality and a lively acidity leans into a very long and spicy finish.
On the Riesling side of the estate, we return to the deep and gravely soils of Klostersatz, from which the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried Klostersatz 2021 shows off a fine bouquet of yellow fruit, a hint of stone fruit, and delicate green tobacco spiciness. On the palate, juicy and complex with mineral nuances and a very good lengthy finish.
From the steep and rocky terraces of Loibenberg, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried Loibenberg 2021 is highly complex and subtly lush, with notes of just-ripe stone fruit and mango that are accompanied by flint and wet stone. Precisely balanced on the palate, with taut acidity that’s countered by ripe fruit and mineral freshness.
Full of racy freshness, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Ried Steinertal 2021 is a pure expression of the comparatively cool Steinertal site: barren and sandy topsoil over a gneiss base. Aromas of lemon, grapefruit, and white peach present a warm welcome. A lively palate is ready with an embrace of citrus fruit, stone fruit, green apple, subtle herbal notes, and echoes of wet stone.
And from the storied and rocky terraces of Kellerberg, the F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg 2021 is a wine of striking character. On the nose, ripe stone fruit, Mirabelle plums, pineapple, flinty wet stone, a hint of blossom honey, and herbal spice. An intricate structure on the palate of ripe fruit, wet stone, flint, subtle spice, and bright acidity. A mineral-driven and lengthy finish reflects the weather-beaten and barren soils and plenty of promise for the future.
Find more details about these wines below, including tasting notes and pricing. Click on a wine to place an order, or shop the Icons of Precision: F.X. Pichler collection on our website. As always, if you have any questions or would like to place an order with our team, please call 202.362.9463 or email us.
Cheers, Peter Weygandt & Warren Leonard
Weygandt Wines
Arriving
Introduction
Cellar Tour
Tasting with a View
Bye-bye
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile, Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Straden, Vulkanland, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner with a View at Weinrefugium Brolli, Steiermark- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
"Brettljause" and Wine at Buschenschank Trummer, Weingut Trummer, with Jürgen Trummer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Strass, Südsteiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor and Manfred and Heidi Tement- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
"Steierisches Backhendl"-Lunch at Weingut Tement/ Restaurant Magnothek, Südsteiermark- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr. 3, at Graz Opera, Steiermark - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer (14.5/20 Points Gault Millau) - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Austrian Beer and Wiener Schnitzel at Fiakerwirt in Langenlois - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tegernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Nigl with Martin Nigl and Wine-pairing Dinner at Restaurant Nigl (14/20 Points Gault Millau) with Chef Bertram Nigl, Senftenberg, Kremstal - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Farewell Dinner at Café Central in Vienna