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Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer (14.5/20 Points Gault Millau) - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

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Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 - Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
Following the visit of the Steiermark, we drove quite a bit to northern Austria to visit the Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental. 

The day began with breakfast at the Palais Hotel Erzherzog Johann in Graz, an elegent 4-star hotel in a former 60-room Baroque right in the center of charming old town Graz and ended with a fantastic wine pairing dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmayer, Langenlois, the iconic producer of Riesling in the Kamptal.
Befor dinner we checked-in at the Loisium Wine & Spa Resort in Langenlois, Kamptal, a 4 star, luxurious, very modern hotel designed by US star-architect Steven Holl on the outskirts of  Langenlois with views towards the vineyards.

There, we were greeted by Klaus Wittauer and Eva Steininger with an impromptu Sekt Reception.

See: At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Klaus Wittauer, who joined us for the dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmayer, is a Washington DC-based importer of Austrian wine and Eva Steininger is the owner of Weingut Steininger in Weingut Steininger, Langenlois, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, which we visited the following day.

After check-in, we walked a short distance through the vineyards to Heurigenhof Bründlmayer.

Heurigenhof Bründelmayer belongs to Weingut Bründelmayer. It is managed by Martin Schierhuber and his spouse.When were there, the kitchen team was headed by Chef Jan Pfeiffer.

We enjoyed a 4-course dinner with correponding Bründelmayer wines.

After dinner, some of us had a last drink at the wine bar of the Loisium.

Heurigenhof Bründelmayer - Gault-Millau Guide 14.5/20

Ein Glas Bründlmayer-Sekt, dazu Butter, Brot und Kresse. Auf Wunsch kann man im Restaurant das Gedeck auch mit einigen Spezialitäten erweitern. Wir verzichten diesmal auf diese Option und lassen uns lieber den gebeizten Hirschrücken mit gegrilltem Römersalat und die Consomée vom Waldviertler Bio-Huhn mit Bockshornnudeln schmecken. Beide Gerichte hätten mehr Pfiff – Stichwort Gewürze – vertragen. Die gleichen Erfahrungen machen wir beim geflämmten Karfiol oder der confierten Forelle mit gegrillter Zucchini: gutes Essen, aber das gewisse Etwas fehlt. Bei der Nachspeise bleiben wir diesmal bei den Marillenpalatschinken, die uns die Küche auf unseren Wunsch zubereitet.

Weingut Bründlmayer, Langenlois

Weingut Bründlmayer is one of the star producers of the Kamptal region in Austria.

Willi Bründlmayer owns 220 acres of vineyards on rocky terraces in Langenlois and these are farmed according to organic principles; since 2019 the winery is certified organic. The vineyards include several Erste Lagen (Premiers Crus), including one of Kamptal's best vineyards - Zöbinger Heiligenstein. 

The winery is run by the Bründlmayer family and general manager Andreas Wickhoff MW. Together, the Bründlmayer team displays meticulous attention to detail. Careful harvesting and precise selection of grapes, always without botrytis, and minimal handling in the winery results in pure, restrained and mineral wines. A tiny portion of grapes is held back, de-stemmed, and macerated for 12 hours; Willi uses these as ‘seasoning’ during blending to add another dimension and tonality to the final wines. The focus is on excellent Grüner Veltliner and Riesling but the estate also produces fantastic Sekt and Pinot Noir. 

At the turn of the millennium, Decanter magazine chose Bründlmayer as a member of the splendid group of 50 people worldwide to change the face of wine within the coming decades. Tim Atkin MW then added him to the list of 10 movers and shakers of the Austrian wine wonder.

We experienced an exquisite meal with exquisite wines. The Heurigenhof is listed in the Gault Millau Guide for Austria with 14,5 points out of 20 and with 2 Toques.

Weingut Bründlmayer (90ha) - Skurnik Wines
Langenlois / Kamptal / Austria

“Nearly every wine, from the light Grüner Veltliner to the red wines and the sparkling wines, has the potential to be the best of that vintage in its category,” declares Peter Moser, editor and publisher of Falstaff Wine Guide, Austria’s most respected and comprehensive wine publication. Also named in 2009 by Wine & Spirits Magazine “the best Austrian winemaker of the last 25 years,” Willi Bründlmayer farms 90 hectares of Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, St. Laurent, Zweigelt and Burgundian varieties from an impressive collection of grand cru vineyards around Langenlois. In 2016 Andreas Wickhoff MW  joined the estate and as general manager works alongside Willi in all aspects.

Some of the most geologically diverse terroirs in Europe are here, in the heart of the Kamptal. The Danube and Kamp rivers and the wooded hills of the Waldviertel forest create a climate with large diurnal temperature swings, essential to a long growing season. These rocky, terraced vineyards are not the steep, jagged terraces of the Kremstal or the Wachau; these are larger wider terraces, each creating its own micro climate. The most famous vineyards in the region are located in the village of Zöbing. This small village is home to a number of ‘Grand Cru’ (Erste Lagen) vineyards, including the Zöbinger Heiligenstein, composed of 250 million year old sandstone and the Lamm, at the base of the Heiligenstein, where loess fills fissures and cracks in the sandstone. Bründlmayer has holdings in other top vineyards in the area, including Käferberg, across the Kamp river valley from the Heiligenstein, with marine deposits over primary rock, as well as the Loiserberg and Steinmassel. Bründlmayer has a very high proportion of old vines, with many plantings over 50 years old, and a parcel in the Heiligenstein planted in the 1920s.

Willi has converted some (17ha in total) of his vineyards to the Lyre training system, which he helped develop. Vines are trained low to the ground, to benefit from the warmth of the primary rock soils, then the canes are trained at an angle upward and perpendicular to the row, which doubles the sunlit and aired foliage surface and improves grape ripeness. The well-aired leaves also dry faster, thus reducing the risk of dreaded grape mildew.

As of 2019, Bründlmayer is certified organic by LACON, an outside, objective, certifying body. During harvest, multiple selections through the vineyard are made, as botrytis is never accepted. Grapes are never de-stemmed or crushed, and they are handled as minimally as possible. A tiny portion of grapes are held back, de-stemmed, and macerated for 12 hours; Willi uses these as ‘seasoning’ during blending to add another dimension and tonality to the final wines.

  • Vineyard area: 90 hectares
  • Top sites:
    • Zobinger Heiligenstein: 250 million year old Permian desert sandstone with feldspar (volcanic) and siltstone
    • Langenloiser Steinmassel: Literally “Stone Mass“ – Permian rock with mica-schist
    • Kammerner Lamm: Calcerous and loamy with underlying loess, the sites higher on the hill have most sandstone and silt from Heiligenstein erosion.
    • Langenloiser Berg-Vogelsang: A variety of mica schist called “Gföhler Gneiss” some of the amphibolite stones in the vineyards even contain garnets.
  • Grape varieties: 33% Grüner Veltliner, 25% Riesling, 15% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 17% other varieties

Arriving



Dinner





















General Manager Martin Schierhuber

Chef Jan Pfeiffer

Back to the Hotel Louisium


Last Drink at the Hotel



Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings

ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North

Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023 

The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City 

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

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