Austria
2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 -
Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and
ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
In the Steiermark, the focus was on the hilly Südsteiermark region which is famous for its crisp white wines. There is brilliantly fresh Sauvignon Blanc, delicious Welschriesling, crisp Schilcher and fruity Muskateller or Traminer. But also Burgundy varieties, above all Chardonnay - called Morillon here - thrive splendidly in Austria's southernmost wine-growing region. Nevertheless Sauvignon Blanc is king here.
We visited the following wineries in the Südsteiermark:
Weingut Sattlerhof, Sernau, Südsteiermark. See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Wohlmuth, Kitzek, Südsteiermark. See: Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Weingut Trummer, Spielfeld, Südsteiermark
Weingut Polz, Strass, Südsteiermark
Weingut Tement, Ehrenhausen, Südsteiermark
The visit of Weingut Trummer was not a typical winery visit with tasting, but a "Brettljause with Trummer wines at Buschenschank Trummer".
An Austrian Buschenschank is a small inn or wine tavern run by a local wine grower. In addition to being a tavern, some buschenschanks are also small inns which offer comfy rooms for guests along with good food and wine. Others are simply part of a Weingut where you can enjoy their own wines along with homemade foods and breads. Brettljause is a tasty tray of cold Austrian specialty foods with arrangements of salads, meats, and cheeses.
Jürgen Trummer was our host.
Actually, the Brettljause and Wine at Buschenschank Trummer, Weingut Trummer, with Jürgen Trummer was included into the tour schedule only at the very end, after we had met by accident Jürgen Trummer in a Graz wine bar during our February 2023 pre-tour visit of Austria. See: Checking, Fine-tuning, Researching, Pre-gaming in Austria in February 2023 - Wine & Culture Tour to Austria by ombiasy WineTours: May 28 - June 08, 2023
Weingut Trummer, Spielfeld, Südsteiermark
The Trummer winery is a relatively young winery compared to the standard in Austria.
Jürgen Trummer is the third generation. At the age of 21 he took over the responsibility for the vines, the harvest, the grapes and the development of wine estate. The winery and wine tavern are idyllically nestled on the unique Obegg vineyard, which sits directly at the border with Slovenia. The vines grow on a 15 million-year-old limestone reef of dead coral banks, so the soil is pure shell limestone, rarely found anywhere else in the world. The climate is also very unique. Here the alpine marginal climate meets the heat of Pannonia, the warm, flat eastern part of Hungary. This does not always make the
work easy, but it rewards with wines expressing a strong character and great potential for aging.
Styria is a region of precipitation, more rain falls here than in any other Austrian wine-growing region. Hail and heavy rains make viticulture in this beautiful region challenging, to say the least.
In the past, chemical pesticides were used to combat pests and fungal infestation. When Jürgen Trummer took over he immediately converted to organic viticultural practices. He says: “In the course of our conversion to organic viticulture, I have learned to appreciate and love the little things. For example our compost, which is really good for our soil and the vines, and the many plants in the rows
of vines, which do not take away any nutrition from the vines, as has always been wrongly claimed, but rather enrich the biotope and attract important insects. The vineyards (called Rieden in Austria) are also more important to me than ever, because the vineyards and their different terroirs give the wines their character.”
Brettljause & Buschenschank: Gamlitz, Austria’s Amazing Wine Taverns to Visit and Stay
If you’re planning a trip to the wine region of southern Austria (and you should be), you’re likely to come across a unique word to describe one of the country’s most popular cultural traditions — the buschenschank.
And when it comes to food and wine in Austria, buschenschank is as much fun to experience as it is to say!
The term buschenschank literally means ‘bush tavern’ or ‘bough tavern’, referring to the boughs which are tied and hung over a door to show guests there is indeed wine in the house, and welcome them in for a taste of the season’s first pressings.
Buschenschanks are a delightful tradition that continues today throughout Austria, and one that’s highly anticipated by visitors and locals alike. They’re also a great way to explore and slow travel the quaint small towns and villages in Austria for a truly authentic experience.
One more unique delicious tradition to add to your Europe bucket list!
What is a Buschenschank?
An Austrian buschenschank (boo-shen-shank) is a small inn or wine tavern run by a local wine grower. In addition to being a tavern, some buschenschanks are also small inns which offer comfy rooms for guests along with good food and wine. Others are simply part of a weingut (winery) where you can enjoy their own wines along with homemade foods and breads.
To experience the cultural tradition of a buschenschank, Gamlitz in South Styria is the perfect place to start. This small town at the beginning of the South Styrian wine road (Südsteirische Weinstraße) is full of charm.
We were introduced to this Austrian cultural tradition on our first visit to Südsteiermark (South Styria) several years ago and have been enjoying it ever since. South Styria is one of the best day trips from Graz though allow yourself at least 4 or 5 days to slowly travel the wine road.
By law, a buschenschank can only serve cold food usually in the form of local cold-cuts of meat, cheeses, and breads. The buschenschanks are also required to serve only wine, and it must be their own.
Don’t ask for a beer, soft drink, or coffee — they’re not allowed to serve them. But no worries — none of these hard and fast rules detracts from what is a truly fun slow travel cultural experience.
What is Brettljause?
We’re not sure if Brettljause is more fun to say or to eat, but this tasty tray of Austrian specialty foods are common throughout the country. Pronounced brett-el-YOW-za, this local delicacy is called Brettljause and is akin to a charcuterie platter, only taken up a thousand notches.
Brettljause is an elevated presentation, with beautiful arrangements of salads, meats, and cheeses. And you’ll often see fresh flowers adorning the top, like the cherry on top. Yowza!!
And lest you think your meal is going to be a few unsubstantial cold cuts, think again. In addition to the various meats and cheeses, you’ll find seasonal veggies and pickles, fresh hard boiled eggs, and hearty local salads drizzled with local pumpkin seed oil.
These cold cut platters are often a work of art. The tasty tradition of Brettljause features many traditional Austrian foods such as Käferbohnen, or what Austrians call runner beans, or sometimes beetle beans since they look like large black beetles. They’re hearty, filling, healthy, and so delicious.
Heuriger or Buschenschank? What’s the difference?
Most buschenschanks in Austrian wine regions open in the early Fall around the time of the harvest and close for the winter months. Some with guest rooms, however, remain open year round.
It’s the early Fall when the action begins, with the first pressing of grapes, resulting in a drink known as stürm (like a thunder schtoorm). This is the first fermentation and can be a bit sweet and very fizzy. Even though it’s higher in alcohol content than regular wine, Austrians look forward to this beautiful time of year in South Styia and drink stürm with gusto.
Buschenschanks are anything but formal, and you’re sure to make a few new friends. The Austrians love buschenschanks, and now, so do we.
So if you’re going to be enjoying wine and stürm all day, we highly recommend booking a room for an overnight stay at one of these warm and welcoming buschenschanks. The Südsteirische Weinstraße, South Styria Wine Road, is narrow and winding. And except for the dim lights coming from scattered buildings after dark, it is also unlighted. So don’t drink and drive. Plan a few nights there, and slow travel the South Styrian wine road.
ArrivingBrettlejause and Wine at Buschenschank Trummer, Weingut Trummer, with Jürgen Trummer
Bye-bye
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile, Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Straden, Vulkanland, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Dinner with a View at Weinrefugium Brolli, Steiermark- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark, with Maria Wohlmuth - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Brettlejause and Wine at Buschenschank Trummer, Weingut Trummer, with Jürgen Trummer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Steiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor
Lunch at Restaurant Magnothek/ Weingut Tement, Südsteiermark
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr.3 at Graz Opera, Steiermark
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle
At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer with Chef Jan Pfeiffer, 15.5 Point Gault Millau
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger
The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stephanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch
Lunch at Braugasthaus zum Fiakerwirtin Langenlois, Kamptal
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Martin Mittelbach
from the "Tegernseehof"and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented
Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from
“Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian
Embassy in Washington DC, USA
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tebernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau
Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Nigl, Kremstal, 13.5 Points Gault Millau
Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery