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Nicolas Quillé (MW): Overview of Austrian Wine - Grape Varieties and Wine Regions

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Picture: Christian Schiller and Nicolas Quille at: The 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle: Impressions from the Grand Tasting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, Washington State, USA

"What started more than 65 years ago as an exam for the UK wine trade is now a globally recognised title collectively held by a worldwide family of 450 Masters of Wine in 30 countries."One of them is Nicolas Quillé, Chief Winemaking and Operations Officer at Crimson Wine Group. He also is the Co-author of Understanding Wine Technology (4th edition) and he was named as one of the 2022 wine industry leaders by Wine Business Monthly. 

Nicolas regularly shares his thoughts on his linkedin account. Last year, he provided in a most interesting 3-part series a concise overview of German wine, including a review of German labeling regulations. 

Nicolas Quillé (MW): Overview of German Wine - Regions, Grape Varieties and New Labeling Rules

Earlier this year, he released two postings on linkedin with regard to Austria.  

I am re-releasing Nicolas Quillé's "Austrian Wine" linkedin posts below as published on his linkedin account.

I met Nicolas in 2011 at a wine conference in Oregon (Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro), when he was running the Pacific Rim Estate, founded by icon Randall Grahm, and since then we have stayed in touch. 

Austrian Wines - Part I

Austrian wine producers have achieved astonishing progress over the past 50 years. They have created comprehensive and ever more thoughtful winegrowing regulations that have contributed to Austria’s solid wine reputation and their global commercial success. Today, Austria punches high above its 1% of global wine production.

Austrian vineyards are located on the eastern side of the country, away from the cold Alps and embracing its warmer eastern borders. The climate of east Austria is resolutely continental (warm summer, cold winters) and influenced by the vast Pannonian plain.

The vineyards are dominated by white grapes (70% of plantings) with Grüner Veltliner (1/3 of all plantings), Welschriesling, Riesling and Chardonnay leading. The most planted red grapes include Zweigelt, Blaufrankish and Merlot. These seven grape varieties represent 71% of all Austrian plantings.

In general, Austrian wines are primarily whites and the white wines are semi aromatic (Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc), or fully aromatic (Riesling). There is often a streak of minerality and purity in Austrian wines, with little new oak on white and red wines. although ambitious red wine producers have sometimes over applied new oak (like everywhere in the world this trend is fortunately reversing). Botrytis notes (saffron, ginger) are possible with dry whites (Wachau Smaragd styles for example) and the ability to develop noble rot leads to the production of excellent dessert wines. There is less presence of residual sugar than in Germany (although this comparison is less obvious than in the past as German wines “dries out”), and the acidities are elevated and preserved by the continental diurnal temperature swing. Austrian white wines can show a certain phenolic kick and a high dry extract (salty minerality) mid-palate, which provides structure. The winemaking is modern and precise: Austria is the old-world equivalent of New Zealand.


Grüner Veltliner is the Austrian flagship grape and it makes a range of white wines. The variety shows faint aromas of celery stick, grapefruit pith, white pepper and dry lentils, and can be light on the palate, although it is best known for its full body expression. Grüner is used to produce the full range of white wines from sparkling (Sekt), to dry whites, and to Trockenbeerenauslese (botrytized sweet wines). Welschriesling (aka Grasevina in Croatia) often makes neutral quaffable white wines and finds its way widely as a blending partner. Zweigelt is a cross between Blaufrankish and Sankt Laurent, and it produces deeply colored red wines with intense juicy black cherry fruit and an appetizing mouthfeel of vibrant acidity and velvety tannins. Blaufrankish produces spicy peppery reds that are made in a variety of styles from fruity light reds to seriously concentrated ones.

Austrian Wines - Part 2

Austria is divided into four large regions of origin that match political regions: Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), Vienna (Wein), Styria (Steiermark), & Burgenland. Smaller designation of origin, named DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), have been carved within. A review of the regions:

 

#Niederösterreich is the largest producer (62% of plantings) & its most planted varieties are Grüner Veltliner (GV), Zweigelt, Riesling & Welshriesling (73% of plantings). There are two main climatic zones: the warm Pannonian plain in the southeast & the hilly center west that is cooled down by alpine breezes. The main areas are:
-         The eastern trio of top quality DAC made, from west to east, of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal. Wachau vineyards are planted on steep terraces along the Danube river. An additional designation based on grape ripeness levels may be referenced on labels (Steinfeder <11.5% ABV, Federspiel between 11.5 & 12.5%, Smaragd >12.5%). Warmer Kamptal offers the fruitiest wines, but also elevated acidities that are perfect from sparkling winemaking.
-         Weinvertel is the volume workhorse of Austria and is producing large quantities of GV.
-         The South (from west to east): Traiseintal, Wagram, Thermenregion (waiting for DAC status), and Carnuntum. The Eastern DAC (Thermenregion, Carnuntum) are starting to feel like Burgenland and red grapes dominate there.

#Burgenland (27% of plantings) is primarily planted with Zweigelt, Blaufrankish, Welshriesling, & Chardonnay (55% of region). This a warm region perfect for reds. Incredible dessert style wines are also produced (Ruster Ausbruch for example), especially around the Neusiedlersee, a shallow lake with beneficial fog influence. Burgenland is divided into 4 DAC: Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland. and Eisenberg.

#Steiermark (12%) top four varieties are Sauvignon Bl., Welshriesling, Pinot blanc (aka Weisser Burgunder), and Muskateller. The climate is influenced here by the proximity of the Mediterranean coast (130 miles away). There are 3 separate regions dominated by volcanic soils: Weststeiermark known for its schilcher rosé (Shilcher = local name for Blauer Wildbacher grape), Sudsteirmark (Sauvignon Bl.), and Vulkanland (Muskateller).

The region around Wein grows 1% of all grapes, primarily GV, Riesling, Chardonnay and Weisser Burgunder. Their compelling field blend, “Gemischter Satz”, (3 varieties mini) is raised to DAC status.

There are 18 Austrian DAC currently. Additional origin labeling on DAC wines can indicate a region (Gebietswein), a village (Ortswein), or a single vineyard (Riedewein). Finally, Austria has developed a serious sparkling wine (Sekt) pyramid of quality and offers good value for money for its top méthodes traditionelles. There are three levels based on the length of aging on yeast lees: Klassik (9 months mini), Reserve (18 months), and Grand Reserve (30 months) – Kamptal is the center of excellence for Sekt currently.

Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 - Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien. 

Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings

ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North

Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023 

The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City 

Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner

Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria

Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour of the Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile, Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours 

2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours 

Light Lunch at Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

At the Liszt House in Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister

Dinner with a View at Hotel Weinrefugium, Steiermark

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler

Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark

Lunch and Tasting at Buschenschank Weingut Trummer, Steiermark, with Jürgen Trummer

Tasting at Weingut Polz, Steiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor

Lunch at Restaurant Magnothek/ Weingut Tement, Südsteiermark

Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr.3 at Graz Opera, Steiermark

In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle

At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer

Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer with Chef Jan Pfeiffer, 15.5 Point Gault Millau

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger

The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stephanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch

Lunch at Braugasthaus zum Fiakerwirtin Langenlois, Kamptal

Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber

2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz

Martin Mittelbach from the "Tegernseehof"and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from “Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian Embassy in Washington DC, USA

Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tebernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach

Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau

Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Nigl, Kremstal, 13.5 Points Gault Millau

Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany

Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler

Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager

Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal

Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery

Farewell Dinner at Café Central in Vienna

Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours








 


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