Christoph Wachter is a leading producer in the Eisenberg DAC and handcrafts very fine wines of great purity and elegance. The 2015 Blaufränkisch bottlings are fabulous in their perfect ripeness and balance. Without a doubt, these are great Austrian red wines."
—Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
The stage was set for a winemaking revolution. It began with the move away from new oak for ageing and towards lower alcohol levels (12.5% is now typical and 12% quite common for regular Eisenberg DAC wines) pioneered by the then almost absurdly young Christoph Wachter of the Wachter-Wiesler winery in Deutsch Schützen. For him, this was all about letting the floral (violets and lilac), black fruit (elderberry and sour cherry) and spicy aromas (black pepper and clove) from the grape shine, and allowing the dry tannins and bright acidity of the grape to speak clearly rather than being smothered by flavors extracted from new oak barrels."
—Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 - Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
After a wonderful dinner at Restaurant am Ratschen and a night at Wohnothek am Ratschen, founded, owned and run by Josef and Gerda Wiesler (nee Wachter):
High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
we went to Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, all in Deutsch-Schützen.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler is run and owned by Christoph and Anne Wachter.
There is also Weingut Thom Wachter, run and owned by Thom Wachter, brother of Gerda Wiesler. Before creating his own winery, Thom Wachter was involved at the Restaurant am Ratschen as sommelier and co-owner.
The visit at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler was a tasting only, led by Anne Wachter.
The wines of Weingut Wachter-Wiesler are available in the USA through Bowler-Wines.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler (schiller-wine)
Weingut
Wachter Wiesler in Deutsch-Schuetzen is one of the leading winemakers
in Suedbrugenland. The two Weingueter of the Wachter and Wiesler
families were amalgamated in 1999 through a marriage. The Wiesler and
Wachter families have both a long wine growing tradition. Both wineries
always had focused on the classic Blaufränkisch. But they vinified other
grape varieties as well, such as Welschriesling, Weissburgunder and,
later, Cabernet and Merlot.
The vineyard area totals 9 hectares
today, with holdings in top-rated sites in Deutsch-Schützen and
Eisenberg. 95% of the area is planted with the red varieties Zweigelt,
Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the remainder is planted
with Welschriesling. In addition, grapes are bought in from an
additional 2 hectares of vineyards. The flagship product is the Cuvée
Julia, a blend of Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in
barriques for 16 months.
Weingut Wachter-Wiesler - Bowler-Wines
Christoph Wachter began working at his family winery in 2008 when he was just twenty years old. He took over full responsibility in 2010, and now farms sixteen hectares of vineyards in Südburgenland, in the towns of Eisenberg and Deutsch Schützen. His credo, "Wine is the most interesting, natural and authentic when you recognize its origin. After that, all of our efforts are aligned - and so our grapes grow as close to nature and with as little outside influence as possible. The character comes entirely from the soils of Deutsch-Schützen and Eisenberg."
When Wachter started in 2010, he stopped using herbicides and pesticides entirely. Today, he is one of only three producers in Südburgenland who is farming organically and is certified as of the 2018 vintage. In 2012, he studied biodynamic farming for two years and he applies some biodynamic techniques today. He allows the weeds to grow in his vineyards, as they attract beneficial insects and eventually return to the soil as nutrients themselves. Rather than add fertilizer, he leaves the vines to extract what they need from the soil itself, thus instilling the wines with minerality and allowing them to express their unique terroir. Only native yeasts are used in the cellar. Wachter ferments his wines twenty to thirty percent whole-cluster, and ages in large barrels that allow the wines to mature gracefully without obscuring them with oak flavors.
The wines of Eisenberg / Sudburgenland are very unique expressions of Blaufrankisch grown on green schist; most Blaufrankisch comes from the limestone soils of Mittelburgenland. The biggest difference between Burgenland and Südburgenland is the soil and micro-climate. In Südburgenland, the vines grow in primary rock, and the most prized terroir is the green schist of the Eisenberg hill, regarded as one of the finest sites for producing Blaufränkisch in Austria, giving wines of great finesse and focus. The Eisenberg DAC includes wines from the surrounding villages, including Deutsch-Schützen, where you find iron rich loam and clay on top of the green schist subsoil. Deutsch-Schützen’s soils are dense with a deep layer of loam, resulting in dark and spicy wines with soft tannins. Südburgenland is cooler than Mittelburgenland and there are rolling hillsides, small mountains really, called the pre-Alps, topped with forest; this regulates the temperature, another aspect of the micro-climate of Südburgenland. Harvest here tends to start two weeks after Mittelburgenland. Sudburgenland, with 500 hectares planted is considerably smaller compared to Mittelburgenland with 2,100 hectares.
In the summer of 2019, we were able to meet with Wachter in Eisenberg and we tasted through his new 2017's. He modestly admits that this is perhaps the best vintage that he has made to date. It finally was the first "normal" vintage since 2012 with great weather - no hail or drought - the first vintage since 2012 with great quality and quantity. It allowed Christoph to launch an idea that he's had in mind for a few years. In addition to his single vineyard wines, he will bottle two village level wines, one from Deutsch Schützen and one from Eisenberg. And he made four single-vineyard wines: Weinberg, Ratschen, Saybritz, and Reihberg. His cuvee Bela-Joska remains the flagship of the winery. It's named after his two grand-fathers and the cuvee was first bottled in 1992.
The Wachter-Wiesler wines are some of the most exciting red wines made in Austria today. Wachter-Wiesler wines have silky texture, floral aromatics, great energy, and elegance - truly Blaufränkisch at its finest.
Das Familienweingut Wachter-Wiesler ist quasi ein Paradebeispiel für gelungenen Generationswechsel. Als Christoph Wachter den elterlichen Betrieb am Eisenberg übernahm, hatte er eine klare Vision: Er wollte das Potenzial der alten Reben nutzen um noch ausdrucksstärkere und terroirgeprägtere Weine zu produzieren.
Mit der Hilfe seiner Schwester und des gesamten Teams, hat es Christoph dann auch geschafft das Weingut dahin zu bringen, wo es heute steht – an die qualitative Speerspitze der Region. Hier entstehen ungeschminkte und puristische Weine. Es sind »Spiegelbilder« der vielfältigen Grünschiefer- und eisenhaltigen Lehmböden. Das Herz der Familie schlägt besonders für den Blaufränkisch – sicher DIE rote, autochtone Rebsorte Österreichs, die in der Lage ist Weine von Weltklasse hervorzubringen. Die als Lemberger nach Deutschland weitergewanderte Rebsorte vermag nur im Burgenland diese unglaubliche Tiefe und Dichte bei immens dunkelfruchtiger Würze hervorzubringen.
Wachter-Wieslers Spitzengewächse spielen in der internationalen Oberklasse mit und zeichnen sich vor allem durch eine kernige Spannung und nachhaltige Stoffigkeit aus, bleiben dabei aber immer sehr klar, extrem fokussiert und haben diese gewisse mineralische Tiefe. Das funktioniert laut Christoph nur durch eine naturnahe Bewirtschaftung – seit dem Jahrgang 2018 nun auch offiziell Bio-Zertifiziert – und den Verzicht auf jegliche Hilfsmittel oder Chemie im Keller. Keine Schönung, keine Filtration, möglichst wenig Schwefel und nur behutsamer Holzeinsatz sind das Erfolgsrezept für diese großen Weine. Im wahrsten Sinn »Naturweine«, aber sie sind eben nicht zu abgefahren und werden auch niemals anstrengend – im Gegenteil: Man möchte immer noch ein zweites oder auch drittes Glas von ihnen trinken. Dieses Fingerspitzengefühl haben neben Christoph Wachter nur sehr wenige – nicht ohne Grund hat sich in so kurzer Zeit wohl noch niemand an die Spitze der österreichischen Rotweinerzeuger vorgearbeitet.
Christoph & Julia Wachter Wiesler (newcomerwines.com)
Arriving at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler in Deutsch-Schützen, Burgenland
Welcome
Anne Wachter was our host.
This was a tasting-only visit.
Bye-bye
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile, Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka- Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister
Dinner with a View at Hotel Weinrefugium, Steiermark
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler
Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark
Lunch and Tasting at Buschenschank Weingut Trummer, Steiermark, with Jürgen Trummer
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Steiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor
Lunch at Restaurant Magnothek/ Weingut Tement, Südsteiermark
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr.3 at Graz Opera, Steiermark
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle
At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer with Chef Jan Pfeiffer, 15.5 Point Gault Millau
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger
The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stephanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch
Lunch at Braugasthaus zum Fiakerwirtin Langenlois, Kamptal
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Martin Mittelbach
from the "Tegernseehof"and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented
Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from
“Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian
Embassy in Washington DC, USA
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tebernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau
Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Nigl, Kremstal, 13.5 Points Gault Millau
Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery