Gunter Künstler, Weingut Kuenstler in Hochheim (Rheingau), Armin Huth, Weingut Wirsching in Iphofen (Franken) and Doerte Naekel, Weingut Meyer Naekel in Dernau (Ahr) presented their wines during a winemaker dinner at Kronenschloesschen in Hattenheim (Rheingau), prepared by Chef Sebastian Loehr and his team. For each of the five courses, Gunther Kuenstler, Armin Huth and Doerte Naekle had selected a wine that in their view would go very well with the course and we could decide who had made the best choice to go with the food.
The dinner was part of a vintage presentation of the three wineries at Weingut Franz Kuenstler during the weekend.
Weingut Kuenstler
Over the past 4 decades the Kuenstler estate has been one of the most successful wine producers in the Rheingau, if not in Germany. I have watched it rising from a small winery to one of the world leaders of German wine. It has 5 F’s (out of 5) in the Feinschmecker WeinGuide ranking.
The wine growing tradition of the Künstler family can be traced back to Southern Moravia in 1648. After the Second World War, the Künstlers had to leave their home in what is now the Czech Republic and the head of the family, Franz Künstler, laid the foundations in Hochheim for what was to become one of the most successful family businesses in the Rheingau. I remember very well the small row house in Hochheim that was the initial home of the Kuenstler winery. And I remember very well the wonderful tastings we had at the Kuenstler estate. All my life I have been buying Kuenstler wines and there is quite a number of Kuenstler bottles in my wine cellar in McLean, Virginia.
His son Gunter Künstler bought the Geheimrat Aschrott'sche Erben wine estate in Hochheim in 1996 and in doing so acquired a major share in the very best vineyard locations in Hochheim. A few years ago, as another giant leap, the Kuenstler estate moved into the former Burgeff Sektkellerei, just at the entrance of Hochheim, when you come from Mainz. It is very impressive. Just recently, Gunter Künstler has teamed up with a winemaker from Ruedesheim (a friend from the days when Gunter studied in Geisenheim and lived in Ruedesheim) and is now also making wines from Ruedesheim.
See also:
Germany's Top 18 Winemakers - Feinschmecker WeinGuide 2013
The Wines of Franz Kuenstler from Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany
Franz Kuenstler, Founder of the Renown Franz Kuenstler Estate in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany, dies at Age 84
Franz Kuenstler, the founder of the Weingut Franz Kuenstler, was awarded an Honorary Lifetime Membership of the Weinfreundeskreis Hochheim, Germany
Wine Video: German Top Wine Maker Gunter Kuenstler interviewed by Hendrik Thoma
World Class Wines in Hochheim, Rheingau, Germany - Weingut Kuenstler
Five Hochheim (Rheingau) Winemakers Presented their Vintage 2011 Wines in Hochheim, Germany
Weingut Wirsching
The Wirsching family has been producing wine since 1630 in the village of Iphofen, one of the top wine centers in Franken. Today, Weingut Wirsching is one of the largest privately-owned winery in Germany.
Dr. Heinrich Wirsching is the owner and in charge of the estate. He is over 80 years of age but looks rather juvenile. While he is still the boss in every-day business, he is actively supported by his daughters Andrea and Lena as well as by management team. Andrea Wirsching, in her fifties, re-joined the family recently to assist her 20 years younger half-sister Lena. They carry on 350 years of family wine making tradition, with the General Manager Dr. Uwe Matheus, Wine maker Werner Probst and Marketing Chef Armin Huth, who we had the pleasure to meet at the dinner.
Armin Huth explained that all work in the vineyards is done with one goal in mind, that of producing the best wines that nature will permit. This includes pruning to yield a meager 65 hectoliters/hectare, using predominantly organic fertilizer and very late, often high risk harvesting.
The vineyards are all steeply sloping with good south to south/west exposure. They include the Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg, Kronsberg, Kalb, and Grosslage Iphöfer Burgweg. There is a small holding in the Roedelseer Küchenmeister.
Over 35 years ago Wirsching was the first estate in Franconia to plant Scheurebe in its vineyards. Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are at this juncture produced in very small quantities. Because there is high demand, plans are to increase the production of both.
Cellarmaster Werner Probst vinifies 75% of the wines in the franconian dry style (Fränkisch trocken) which means residual sugar of less than 4 grams/liter. Even traditionally made Spätlese's rarely have residual sugar levels exceeding 15 grams/liter. Vinification is "reduktiv" which implies little oxygen contact with the juice. Suessreserve is never used.
The vineyard area is 72 hectares. Output amounts to 48,000 cases. Grapes: 38% Silvaner, 18% Riesling, 10% Müller-Thurgau, 8% Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), 6% Scheurebe, 7% Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), 5% Dornfelder and 8% others. Best vineyard sites: Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg and Iphöfer Kronsberg.
Weingut Meyer Naekel
Weingut Meyer Naekel was established by the marriage of Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel. Although Willibald Näkel only cultivated 1.5 hectares of vines he was already a pioneer for the then rather unusual dry red wines from the Ahr valley. Today’s 15 hectares estate is managed by his son Werner Näkel, his wife Claudia and their daughters Meike and Dőrte. We had the pleasure to meet Dőrte at the dinner.
Doerte Naekel explained that in 1982 her father Werner Näkel changed his career from a grammar school teacher of mathematics and sport to take over the family estate. With his pronounced feel for quality in viticulture, and great cellar skills, he created a new style for Pinot Noir in the Ahr. By the end of the 80’s, Werner Näkel had earned a reputation for his forward-looking wine-making and won numerous awards for his excellent red wines. Meike and Dörte Naekel served apprenticeships in wine estates before studying viticulture in Geisenheim. They have now joined the estate’s team – Meike in 2005 and Dörte in 2008.
Vineyard acreage: 15 hectares. Production: 6 000 cases. Average yield: Less than 50 hl/hectare. Best vineyard sites: Walporzheimer Kräuterberg, Dernauer Pfarrwingert, Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg. Grape varieties: Pinot Noir (75%), Fruehburgunder – an early ripening variety of Pinot Noir (12%), Pinot Blanc (5%), Riesling (5%), others (3%)
Doerte Naekel: “We see our wines as regional ambassadors that embody the character of the sites and the people involved in the making. Fruity and mineralic wines with an elegant tannin structure grow along the Ahr’s steep slopes on slate soils. It has always been a Näkel philosophy to preserve and to accentuate the wines’ individual terroir. We achieve this with old vines, conscientious vineyard site management, consistent yield reduction and careful harvesting by hand. This is the basis for healthy, fully ripened grapes and wines full of character, great balance and intense aroma. The varietal character and quality, achieved in the vineyard site, is retained by gentle handling of the grapes in the cellar. Naturally, it also takes a whole team of motivated staff.”
The Ahr is situated just north of 50˚ latitude, which most people consider to be the boundary for viticulture. The Ahr valley is Germany’s most northern red wine area and with just about 550 hectares, it is also the smallest. In order to ripen to perfection red wines require a lot of sunlight and warmth. The secret lies in an ideal micro climate found in the Ahr due to special geological conditions. The steep south-facing vineyard slopes are perfectly angled towards the sun. The soil formed from weathered slate and Greywacke warm up easily and are able to store heat. Hence, the grapes grow in an ideal biotope of the narrow Ahr valley that is protected by the Eifel Hills.
Werner Naekel - Winegrower of the year 2004 - Gault Millau 2004– Wine Guide Germany: “Hardly anyone in Germany has had a stronger effect on the production of high-quality red wines in Germany than Werner Näkel, whom we proclaim, to a certain extent, for the work of his lifetime to ‘Winegrower of the year 2004’… The authority of the German red wine miracle of the 90's made the Spätburgunder from the Ahr valley internationally respectable. Meanwhile, his wines, which this globetrotter produces in South Africa and Portugal, excite attention.”
Werner Naekel also produces wine in South Africa and Portugal. In South Africa, it is a joint venture with Neill Ellis in Stellenbosch. In Portugal, he makes wine in the Douro valley. Here, Werner Näkel acquired together with his two friends Bernd Philippi (wine estate Köhler Ruprecht/Palatinat) and Bernhard Breuer (wine estate George Breuer/Rheingau) the Quinta da Carvalhosa in the year 2000.
Kronenschloesschen and Chef Sebastian Luehr
Mr Hans Ullrich bought the country manor, built in the 19th century, in 1990. The ensuing restoration lasted 2 years. The hotel’s modern comforts and up to date technology merges sensitively with the original architecture. The hotel has 18 guest rooms and suites.
For many years, the restaurant was run by Patrick Kimpel. Under his leadership, it earned a Michelin star. When Patrick Kimpel left, his Souschef Sebastian Lühr took over. Sebastian Lühr did his apprenticeship in the Kronenschloesschen and then spent time at Landhaus Scherrer in Hamburg, with Hans-Stefan Steinheuer in Bad Neuenahr and with Joachim Wissler in Bergisch Gladbach, before returning to Eltville in 2007.
See also:
Restaurants in Germany with a Top Selection of German Wines
Dinner and Wines
Reception
Gebeizter Saibling / Gurke / Dill / Jakobsmuschel
Weingut Kuenstler: 2012 Ruedesheimer Drachenstein Grosses Gewaechs Riesling Trocken – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Sister Act Silvaner Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2012 *Illusiion* Blanc de Noir Trocken
Glacierte Enten-DimSum / Petersilie / Steinpilze
Weingut Kuenstler: 2009 Hochheimer Hoelle Erstes Gewaechs Riesling Trocken
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Iphoefer Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling Grosses Gewaechs – this was my favorite.
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2012 Fruehburgunder Trocken
Geschmorte Schulter vom US-Fleisch / Zwiebelsoubise / Bohne
Weingut Kuenstler: 2006 Hochheimer Reichestal Spaetburgunder RR Trocken – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2008 Tri Terra Cuvee Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder Chardonnay Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2011 “Blauschiefer” Spaetburgunder Trocken
Rehrücken / Sellerie / Himbeere
Weingut Kuenstler: 2011 Hochheimer Reichestal Grosses Gewaechs Spaetburgunder Trocken
Weingut Wirsching: 2008 Spaetburgunder “S” Trocken
Weingut Meyer-Naekel: 2011 Bad Neuenahrer Sonnenberg Spaetburgunder Trocken – this was my favorite.
Quitte / Crème fraîche / Honig / Popkorn
Weingut Kuenstler: 2011 Ruedesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Auslese – this was my favorite.
Weingut Wirsching: 2011 Iphoefer Julius-Echter-Berg Rieslaner Auslese
New Vintage Presentation at Weingut Kuenstler
The dinner was part of a vintage presentation of the three wineries at Weingut Franz Kuenstler during the weekend.
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