Following the visit of Château Sociando Mallet
See: Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
we drove up to Bégadan for dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Vignobles Paeffgen.
Stefan Paeffgen is a career changer who has been making wine only for a few years. Stefan Paeffgen holds a Doctorate in agricultural science and in another life worked in the agriculture industry in his home country Germany and in Scandinavia. He always had a passion for the wines of the Médoc and at age 46, he was at a crossroad and made the decision to go back to practical agriculture. He searched for a winery and finally settled in Bégadan, north of St.-Estèphe.
Today, his Vignobles Paeffgen comprise 4 châteaux: Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus as well as Château Clos du Moulin and Château Moulin de Lestagne.
We had a lovely charcuterie and cheese dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen and there children (who were visiting their parents during school break). Before dinner, Stefan showed us around.
Stefan Paeffgen
Stefan Paeffgen grew up on a farm in Germany, which his older brother took over, when their father retired. Stefan had to look for something different, although he would have loved to take over the family’s property.
Stefan studied agriculture in München, Stuttgart, Wisconsin, Paris and then worked for a large fertilizer company. He moved up in the company and made good money. There were mergers and was restructuring. At some point, he was offered a golden handshake and started to look for a winery he could take over. In that period, Stefan, his wife and the 3 children were living in Belgium, near Brussels.
In November 2010, he signed a sales contract with Patrick Chaumont, the owner of Vignobles Chaumant (Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus) and moved to Bégadan, initially without his family; by now they are all in Bégadan. In 2012, he also acquired Château Clos du Moulin and Château Moulin de Lestagne from Michel Boyer.
Patrick Chaumont stayed on for 2 years to help. They cooperated wonderfully and Stefan learned to make wines in the traditional style. Patrick Chaumont still visits every now and then to see how things are going.
Château Le Reysse
Patrick Chaumont founded Château Le Reysse in 1983. He withdrew the Château Le Reysse vineyards from the co-op and started to vinify the wines himself. (Château Lassus – see below - remained in the co-op). When his son married into a winery in the southern part of Pauillac, he decided to sell Château Le Reysse (and Château Lassus).
4.5 hectares in Bégadan, partially bordering with the vineyards of Rollan de By and La Tour de By
20.000 – 26.000 bottles, which Stefan Paeffgen sells through the old channels of Patrick Chaumont, but increasingly also through his new channels, primarily in Germany
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot
Château Lassus
Along with Château Le Reysse, Stefan Paeffgen bought Château Lassus from Patrick Chaumont. The wine is sold en bloc to a Negoçiant in Bordeaux. Here is what the Negoçiant says: Château Lassus, the Chaumont family property since 1967, was mentioned in the first edition of "Bordeaux et ses Vins" edited by Charles Cocks in 1850 and was already listed in the Féret 1939 edition as it had been classified Cru Bourgeois in 1932 for its "terroir" and quality of the wines produced. The estate was taken over by the Paeffgen family in 2010 who has realized large investments since to help the cru maintain its renowned status. The quality focus is realized by sustainable efforts in the vineyards and by strong selection process. Today, Stefan Paeffgen, passionate by wines and fallen in love with this charming property, is in charge of it.
Soil : Clay-gravels / Surface : 25 hectares
Average age of the vineyard : 35 years
Location : The vineyard is located between the Bégadan village and the Gironde River in the Médoc.
Grape varieties : 50 % Merlot / 50 % Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is vinified by the traditional method, in thermo-regulated concrete and stainless steel vats, after a period of pre-fermentation maceration. Vertical pressing. Ageing for 12 months in new barrels, second-fill and third-fill barrels.
Deep color with garnet highlights. Very aromatic bouquet with touch of blackcurrant and spices. Superb, dense attack with a slightly jammy fruit. The relatively powerful tannic structure shows supple tannins.
Château Clos du Moulin
The roots of Château Clos du Moulin can be traced back to the 19th century. The Boyer family, the former owner, used to live there. Château Clos du Moulin is also a Cru Bourgeois in the original classification of 1932. The Cru Bourgeois status was however lost in 2003. Stephan Paeffgen was successful in regaining it in 2011, after he had taken over.
11 hectares in St. Christoly and Couqueques
45.000 – 56.000 bottles
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
Château Moulin de Lestagne
3 hectares in St. Christoly
20.000 bottles
20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 80% Merlot
Family Dinner
Following the tour we enjoyed a supper with charcuterie, cheese, baguette, and wine at Château Le Reysse.
Stefan and Heike Paeffgen were our hosts. We were also joined by their 3 children who happened to be there.
The Wines Stefan Poured
2012 Château Le Reysse (Magnum)
27.000 bottles
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
20 months in barrique
Yves Beck: Le Reysse 2012, AOC Médoc Violet intensif. Nez de bonne intensité, fin et complexe. Notes de cannelle, clou de girofle, cacao et fruits noirs (mûre, myrtille, cassis). En bouche l'attaque est minérale avec des notes de graphite. Le corps est légèrement gras et la structure se révèle tardivement. Les tannins sont granuleux, élégants. Beau potentiel de garde. 89-90/100. 2018-2032
2012 Château Clos du Moulin (Magnum)
2016 Château Le Reysse
USA: Château Le Reysse Available Through Lyle Fass Selections
In the USA, Château Le Reysse is available now through Lyle Fass Selections - World Class Artisanal Wines Direct from the Estate at 40% Below Retail
Lyle Fass: Some of the Most Mineral-Driven Bordeaux I Have Ever Had - Our Most Popular Bordeaux Wines by Far - 2015 is Such a Great Vintage - It Allies Finesse, Power and Freshness - These Wines Have the Balance and Minerality We Love in Other Regions
I think of all the regions where I have carefully put together a small cadre of growers Bordeaux is what I'm most proud of. There is not a ton of Bordeuax love on my list so I offer very few wines but the ones I do offer, I really love.
Bordeaux has the most growers of any wine region in France. There are 50-60 estates everyone knows and always sell. I don't mess with them as the price competition is too intense and I don't want to fall into the "me too" trap; that's not my role in the wine world. You also have a bottom percentage of undeniable undrinkable plonk. Then there is the rest. Finding what is good in the rest means I have to taste a whole bunch of undrinkable plonk and boy did I to find the 3-5 Bordeaux estates I work with. But I love them all dearly and perhaps love today's winery the most.
That is Chateau La Reysse and it's little brother, Clos du Moulin. These are some of the most mineral driven Bordeaux I have ever had, along with being stunningly precise with clear and deep fruit. These are owned and made by a German guy so it has that level of German precision as well. La Reysse and Clos du Moulin remain our most popular Bordeaux wines by far and now I am honored to sell the 2015 vintage. Do not miss these. Value like this in Bordeaux I only offer wines this inexpensive (under $27 and under $20) once a year. These have a following and the email is worth it to me and the company. Below is how it used to go when I tried to sell Bordeaux.
The 2015 Le Reysse for as little as $26.99 a bottle on a 4-Pack has a cooling mineral nose with astonishing depth and purity which gives off an impression of amazing freshness. The palate is pure pleasure with oodles of blue and black fruits, wonderful acids, grippy forceful tannins and a real sense of place. Just an amazingly complex, powerful and delicate bottle of Bordeaux. You also get cigar, leather, tobacco and some nice wet earth as well. I can see this aging for up to 20 years. 2015 is such a great vintage as it allies finesse, power and freshness all at once. Freshness is so key in Bordeaux as wines can tend to be lactic, oaky and rich due to a general change in winemaking over the last 20-30 years. This is not that at all, this is what Bordeaux should be at $27 a bottle but rarely if ever is. At La Reysse in 2015 they had an issue with the Cabernet Sauvignon as much of it was contaminated by a hydraulic press machine used in picking, (luckily insurance covered it) but they are down 60% in 2015. So the assemblage is different than in other years.
The 2015 La Reysse is a perfect example of why 2015 Bordeaux is being compared to the greatest vintages of the past 100 years. 2010, 2005, 2000, 1982, 1961, 1945, 1929 are widely considered the top 7 vintages of the last 100 years. Pricing will reflect that if you are so inclined to search. But what marks a great Bordeaux vintage in my mind, is the little wines were incredible. And La Reysse from the Medoc has it all. Freshness, amazing depth of fruit and structure, perfect balance, big sweet tannins all at an affordable tariff make the 2015 La Reysse one hell of a wine. It is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Franc is also of note as it is the first time they have used it. The vines are over 100 years old and from a vineyard they got that was not in too great shape, but they persisted and it was worth it and now it's very low yielding and super high quality. In normal years they will be about 2% of the assemblage but it is 8% in 2015 due to the losses of the Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is insane and totally unique. Nose has violets and the classic deep mineral drive of La Reysse. Also deep cassis and black berry fruit. Elegantly framed by well integrated wood. Also floral and red cherries add complexity. Wonderful combo of fruit and mineral. Both wafting and competing for your olfactory senses. The palate is lively and fresh as La Reysse is and should be. The tannins are so soft and juicy yet also asserting authority. Huge minerals throughout the midpalate and long persistent finish. The wine has improved so much since Stefan has been in charge of the estate with 2010 being his debut vintage. The wine soaks your palate with fruit like only Bordeaux can. Remarkable wine and the best La Reysse ever.
Bye-bye
Many thanks Heike and Stefan for a great tour and dinner.
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), France
Bordeaux Wine Tour 2013 by ombiasy
Bordeaux Wines and their Classifications: The Basics
Bordeaux - En Primeur, Negociants, Courtiers, the Quai de Chartons and the Place de Bordeaux– A Short Introduction
How Does the Negociant System in Bordeaux Work? Tour and Tasting at Millésima - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Pape-Clément, Graves, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Daley Brennan, Business Development Manager, Eastern USA - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
An Afternoon at Château Pape-Clément (in 2013), Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux
Dinner with a View: At Restaurant L’Estacade in Bordeaux City - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2016, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City - An Update
Schiller’s Favorite Seafood Places in Bordeaux City, France - An Update
Tour and Tasting at Château Canon-La-Gaffelière, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, with Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
A Morning at Château Canon La Gaffeliere in Saint Emilion with Owner Count Stefan von Neipperg, Bordeaux
Tour and Tasting at Château Belles-Graves, Appellation Lalande de Pomerol, with Sylvain Garoste, Maître de Chai (Cellar Master) - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Lunch at Restaurant La Table de Catusseau, Bib Gourmand in the Guide Michelin, in Pomerol - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Tasting at Château La Conseillante, Appellation Pomerol, with Technical Director Marielle Cazaux - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Château Troplong-Mondot, Appellation Saint-Émilion, Premier Grand Cru Classé B - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Le Bon Pasteur, Appellation Pomerol, with Dany Rolland and General Manager Benoit Prévot - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Saint Emilion Wines and their Classification, Bordeaux, France
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in St. Emilion, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Gazin, Appellation Pomerol, with Owner Nicolas de Bailliencourts - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Wine-pairing Lunch at Château Climens, Appellation Barsac-Sauternes, Première Grand Cru Classé, with Owner and Winemaker Bérénice Lurton and Chef à Domicile Florence Camaly - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Reynier, Appellation Entre-Deux-Mers, with Owners/ Winemakers Marc Lurton and Agnès Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Plateau de Fruits de Mer in Blaye - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Vineyard Walk and Tasting in the Chai at Château Bel-Air La Royère, Appellation Blaye-Côtes de Bordeaux, with Owner/ Winemaker Corinne Loriaud - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Oysters in Bordeaux: Visiting the Oyster Farmer Raphael Doerfler and his Earl Ostrea Chanca Oyster Farm in Grand Piquey/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Schiller's Favorite Seafood Restaurants in Arcachon and Cap Ferret (Bassin d'Arcachon/ Bordeaux)
Lunch at Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret/ Bassin d'Arcachon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Blending Exercise at Château La Tour de Bessan, Margaux, Cru Bourgeois, with Owner/ Winemaker Marie-Laure Lurton - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
What is a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois? France
The 5 Premiers Grands Crus Chateaux en 1855 of Bordeaux, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Lafite-Rothschild, Appellation Pauillac, 1ière Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Lafon-Rochet, Appellation Saint-Estèphe, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owners Basile Tesseron and Michel Tesseron - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Château Phélan-Ségur, with General Manager Véronique Dausse and Winemaker Fabrice Bacquey - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Appellation Pauillac, 2ième Grand Cru Classé, with Technical Director Jean-René Matignon - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Wine-Pairing Lunch at Château Pichon Longueville Baron in Pauillac - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017 France
How a Barrel is Made: Visit of the Cooperage Berger & Fils in Vertheuil - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Sociando Mallet, Appellation Haut-Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2019, France
Tour, Barrel Tasting and Family Dinner with Stefan and Heike Paeffgen, Château Le Reysse and Château Lassus, Vignobles Paeffgen, Appellation Médoc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France
Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with Philippe Blanc, Managing Director
Tour and Tasting at Château Beychevelle, Appellation Saint-Julien, 4ième Grand Cru Classé, with General Manager Philippe Blanc - Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours 2017, France
Tour and Lunch at Château Desmirail, Appellation Margaux, 3ième Grand Cru Classé, with Owner Denis Lurton
Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
Winery Tour and Dinner at Château Bouscaut, Appellation Pessac-Léognan, Cru Classé de Graves, with Owner Sophie Cogombles-Lurton and her Husband Laurent Cogombles