Château Canon la Gaffelière, Premier Grand Cru Classé, AOC Saint-Émilion, was the first estate we visited in Saint-Émilion. We spent some time in the vineyard before touring the winemaking facilities. The visit ended with a tasting of 4 wines.
Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg joined us for the tasting. We had wines of 4 different von Neipperg estates, including Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte.
We met the daughter of Frank John - Dorothea John - in the barrel cellar. She had just started to work at Château Canon la Gaffelière. Frank John was the Managing Director at Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl in Deidesheim/ Pfalz from 1994 to 2003.
Canon La Gaffelière belongs to the only 18 Premiers Grands Crus Classés châteaux in Saint-Emilion (4 Premiers Grands Crus Classés A and 14 Premiers Grands Crus Classés B). Château Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte – also owned by Count Stephan - were promoted to Premiers Grands Crus Classés of St. Émilion in the 2012 blind tastings.
The von Neipperg family not only owns these two estates in France, but also owns/co-owns 6 other estates as well as a property in Bulgaria. Furthermore, in Germany, the brother of Count Stephan von Neipperg runs the family winery in Wuerttemberg.
See more:
The Wine Empire of the von Neipperg Family in France, Bulgaria and German
In the barrel cellar we met the daughter of Frank John, who has now his own winery but used to be the cellar master for Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl, Pflaz, for many years. She had just started to work there.
Count Stephan von Neipperg
Birth of an Earldom: Established in the 12th century in Germany's northern Württemberg Valley, the von Neipperg earldom comprised some thirty villages and market towns, including chwaigern, which remains the family seat to this day.
Major military and diplomatic figures: Ennobled during the Holy Roman Empire, the von Neipperg family served the imperial family of Austria starting in the 16th century, contributing officers and diplomats for many years. Two figures stand out: Count Eberhard-Friedrich von Neipperg and Count Adam-Adalbert von Neipperg.
A deep attachment to the land: The family has made wine in Germany since the 13th century, and viticulture has never stopped being a central part of their life. The custodian of some 800 years of winegrowing tradition, the talented Stephan von Neipperg manages the Bordeaux estates acquired by his family in 1971. Ably assisted by a team of professionals, he has brought the wines from these châteaux to the pinnacle of quality.
A precious heritage: Residing in Saint-Emilion since 1983, Stephan von Neipperg and his wife, Sigweis, have devoted themselves tirelessly to perpetuating the family tradition at their various estates. The next generation is committed to this same goal... and shares a profound respect for the terroir.
Château Canon la Gaffelière, Premier Grand Cru Classé, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Located on the pied de côte (foot of the slope) south of the medieval village of Saint-Émilion, Château Canon La Gaffelière's terroir consists of clay-limestone and clay-sand soil that is very permeable and particularly efficient at retaining heat.
The choice of grape varieties is rather atypical for the appellation in light of the soil: almost a perfect 50/50 divide between Merlot and Cabernet. The Cabernets ripen early and remarkably well on Canon La Gaffelière's warm soil, adding power and aromatic complexity to Merlot's opulence to create wines of natural elegance and finesse.
In keeping with vineyard management adapted to each plot, the vat room was designed to be able to ferment and house wine made from each one in order to fine tune the final blend. Fermentation takes place slowly and temperatures are kept under close control to bring out the best the grapes have to offer. The wine is aged on the lees to enhance its intrinsic qualities and each barrel is treated individually. Non-interventionist winemaking is practised and in such a way as to make the most of vintage character.
The Wine
The wines of Château Canon La Gaffelière have been certified organic. They are classy, remarkably well-structured, complex, pure, and always elegant.
Vineyard
Terroir: Clay-limestone and clay-sand soil at the foot of the slope
Area under vine: 19,5 ha (48 acres)
Grape varieties: 50 % Merlot, 40 % Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Average age of the vines: 50 years
Production
Harvesting: By hand, into small crates to avoid bruising. Sorting before and after destemming. No crushing. The grapes arrive on a conveyor belt.
Fermentation: In temperature-controlled wooden vats for 28-35 days depending on the vintage. Extraction by pneumatic “pigeage” (punching down the cap).
Malolactic fermentation and ageing: In new oak barrels (up to 80%) on fine lees. Fining and filtering as necessary, depending on the vintage.
Duration of barrel ageing: 15-18 months depending on the vintage.
La Mondotte, Premier Grand Cru Classé, AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
La Mondotte's 4.5-hectares of vines grow on the clay-limestone plateau east of Saint-Emilion. This small gem of a vineyard has all the natural attributes of a Premier Grand Cru Classé.
The terroir consists of very silty clay overlaying a rocky subsoil. This shallow, meagre soil induces excellent water regulation and is propitious to deep rooting. Fine natural drainage combined with outstanding sunshine make for early and complete ripening. The grapes, especially Merlot, are picked under ideal conditions every year.
Dating from the 19th century, La Mondotte has been certified organic since 2014.
The Wine
The quality of La Mondotte's clay and the age of the vines (60 years on average) result in a wine that is profoundly marked by its terroir. It is silky, powerful, incomparably elegant, and has enormous minerality.
Vineyard
Terroir: Clay-limestone
Area under vine: 4,5 ha (9,9 acres)
Grape varieties: 75 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Franc
Average age of the vines: 60 years
Production
Harvesting: By hand, into small crates to avoid bruising. Sorting before and after destemming. No crushing. The grapes arrive on a conveyor belt.
Fermentation: In temperature-controlled wooden vats for 28-35 days depending on the vintage. Extraction by pneumatic “pigeage” (punching down the cap).
Malolactic fermentation and ageing: In new oak barrels (100%) on fine lees. Fining and filtering as necessary, depending on the vintage.
Duration of barrel ageing: 18 months in average.
Clos de l'Oratoire
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Grand Cru Classé
Clos de l'Oratoire is located on Saint-Emilion's north-east slope. The 10 hectares of vines grow on Fronsac molasse covering a layer of sand with a clay subsoil. This terroir is ideally suited to the blend of Merlot (90%), Cabernet Franc (5%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) grapes. Merlot contributes roundness and opulence to the wine, whereas Cabernet Franc is responsible for power, aromatic complexity, and length.
In 1991, Stephan Graf von Neipperg was given control of Clos de l'Oratoire, and he subsequently bought the remaining 30 percent of the property from other investors.
Château Peyreau
AOC Saint-Émilion
This 12.82 hectare vineyard is located on Saint-Emilion's north-east slope. It has clay-limestone soil with Fronsac molasse at the top of the slope and clay-siliceous soil lower down. The grape varieties are 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Château d'Aiguilhe
AOC Cotes de Castillon
Château d'Aiguilhe is located on hills overlooking the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, on the border of the Côtes de Castillon appellation.
This 110 hectare estate has 50 hectares of vines, which are planted exclusively on the upper part of the hills. The vineyard has excellent natural drainage and south-facing sun exposure. The minerals in the clay-limestone soil account for a wine of both power and finesse in which the roundness of Merlot (80%) marries beautifully with the concentration and complexity of Cabernet Franc (20%).
Comte Stephan von Neipperg purchased the estate in 1998. He invested millions of euros in a state-of-the-art facility at Château d'Aiguilhe, in the previously unnoticed Côtes de Castillon appellation, then dared to market the wine like a St.-Emilion Grand Cru Classé. The success of d’Aiguilhe is credited with putting Cotes de Castillon on the map.
Clos Marsalette
AOC Pessac-Léognan
Clos Marsalette is located in the commune of Martillac in the Pessac-Léognan appellation.
The 6.26 hectares of vines cover three gravelly rises consisting of soil deposited by the Garonne River. The vineyard has 5.46 hectares of red wine varieties (35% Merlot, 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc) and 0.80 hectares of white wine varieties (50% Sauvignon Blanc, 50% Sémillon).
Count Stefan von Neipperg owns Clos Marsalette with the two minority shareholders Francis Boutemy and M. Sarpoulet.
Château Guiraud
AOC Sauternes
Premier Cru Classé 1855
This gem of an estate in Sauternes dates back to the 15th century. The vineyard currently covers 100 hectares. Château Guiraud is known for its organic approach to viticulture.
11,000 cases made. The blend of 65 percent Sémillon and 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc comes from 35- to 40-year-old vines.
Four partners - Robert Peugeot (of Peugeot automobiles), Olivier Bernard (Domaine de Chevalier), Stephan von Neipperg (Canon-La Gaffelière and others) and Xavier Planty, the estate’s longtime general manager - acquired Château Guiraud in 2006.
What motivated you to become a shareholder in this vineyard in Sauternes ? “Being of German origin, I was introduced to icewine as well as late harvest wines and botytised wines, at a very early age. I have always been fascinated by them, and also by Sauternes, which depend on so many factors. So, the opportunity to be a part owner of Château Guiraud was not to be missed. Promoting this somewhat overlooked appellation represents a veritable challenge, and creating greater interest in great sweet white wines is my main priority” said Count Stefan von Neipperg.
Château Soleil
AOC Puisseguin Saint-Emilion
The 20 hectare vineyard has limestone soil with a thin topsoil of clay-gravel colluvium. The grape varieties are typical for Saint-Emilion, with nearly 80% Merlot. The remaining 20% is evenly divided between Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Two centuries of family tradition account for the excellent reputation of Château Soleil in Puisseguin. In 2005, a group of private investors, including Count Stephan von Neipperg decided to buy the estate, with the objective of bringing it up to the level of the finest wines in the Saint-Emilion region.
Bulgaria
Count Stephan von Neipperg, in conjunction with the banker Karl-Heinz Hauptmann, was one of the first people to invest in the wine sector in Bulgaria. This was in the Bessa Valley, in the Pazardjik region, 135 km southeast of Sofia. Premium Bordeaux grape and local varieties were planted. The wines, ENIRA and ENIRA Réserva, have met with enormous success.
Tasting with Count Stephan von Neipperg
Proprietor Count Stephan von Neipperg joined us for the tasting. We had wines of 4 different von Neipperg estates, including from Canon La Gaffelière and La Mondotte, the flagship estates of Count Stephan von Neipperg.
The Wines
2011 Château d'Aiguilhe AOC Castillon - Côtes de Bordeaux
90 ha
80 % Merlot, 20 % Cabernet Franc
wine-searcher average price in US$: 22
2013 Clos de l'Oratoire Grand Cru Classé / AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
13 ha
80 % Merlot, 20 % Cabernet Franc
wine-searcher average price in US$: 32
2015 Château Canon la Gaffelière Premier Grand Cru Classé / AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
19,5 ha
50 % Merlot, 40 % Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
wine-searcher average price in US$: 91
2006 La Mondotte Premier Grand Cru Classé / AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
4,5 ha
75 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Franc
wine-searcher average price in US$: 235
Bye-bye
Thanks Stephan for an outstanding tour and tasting.
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Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours, France
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