Situated on Germany’s Mosel River among some of the world’s most treasured vineyards, the Dr. Loosen estate has been in the same family for more than 200 years.
When Ernst Loosen assumed ownership in 1988, he realized that, with ungrafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany’s top-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class Rieslings.
To achieve this, Ernst immediately changed the estate’s vineyard practices to dramatically reduce crop size. He stopped all chemical fertilization, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilizers and soil amendments.
He extended his commitment to sustainable practices beyond the vineyards and into the winery, implementing improvements in materials recycling, energy efficiency and water conservation.
At harvest, he insisted on fully mature fruit that had been very strictly selected. And he turned to gentler cellar practices that would allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of technological meddling.
Today, Dr. Loosen wines are widely enjoyed around the globe and continue to receive awards and accolades from top reviewers.
Ernst Loosen was our host, assisted by Markus Schulte.
Ernst Loosen in the World
Ernst Loosen is a winemaker based in Germany, who, broadly speaking, now makes 4 different wines in Germany and the USA:
First, Mosel Valley Rieslings, traditionally fruity-sweet that made him so famous in the world, but increasingly dry;
Second, Pinot Noirs and other wines from the Pfalz, all dry, where he owns Weingut J.L. Wolf;
Third, the J. Christopher Wines, initially a collaboration of Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers, but now fully owned by Ernst Loosen, mainly Pinot Noir, from Oregon and
Fourth, the Eroica Riesling wines, a collaboration between Dr. Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle, the giant wine producer, in Washington State.
In addition, jointly with his brother, Ernst Loosen is an importer in the US of German, but also other wines.
Ernst Loosen in the Mosel Valley
The wines of Weingut Dr. Loosen are known all around the world as prime examples of Germany’s famous delicious low alcohol, fruity-sweet Rieslings from the Mosel. These are exceptional wines, skillfully made by first-class winemakers like Ernst Loosen, essentially made by not letting the fermentation going its full course so that natural sugar remains in the wine. Alternatively, German winemakers are allowed to add sweet-reserve (sterilized grape juice) to increase the sweetness level in the wine, but today, this is mostly done, if at all, for fine tuning the residual sweetness. These fruity-sweet wines are the wines that are so popular among the fans of German wine in the world.
But today, wine loving Germans drink dry. There is no doubt about it. The large majority of the premium wines produced in Germany is dry. And the German (dry) grand cru Rieslings can compete with the best wines in the world. The word is getting around - slowly but surely - and more and more dry German Rieslings appear on the international market.
“While in Germany the demand for my fruity sweet wines is low, the Grosses Gewächs wines are very high in demand. In the US, it is the other way around” said Ernst a couple of years ago. But this is changing and Ernst Loosen has started to aggressively market his dry wines, both entry level and ultra-premium, in the US market.
Weingut Dr. Loosen is located just outside Bernkastel in the Mosel wine region. The vineyard area totals 22 hectares. Production amounts to 15.000 cases.
The American Wine Portfolio of Weingut Dr. Loosen
The Weingut Dr. Loosen wines available in the American market can be grouped into 3 quality categories.
Single Vineyard Wines
These are wines from the premium vineyards of Weingut Dr. Ernst Loosen. In fact, all of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s six major vineyards were designated as Grosse Lage (grand cru) in the 1868 Prussian classification of Mosel vineyards, which was undertaken for tax assessment purposes. This classification predates the grand cru system in Burgundy, and was updated by Stuart Pigott and Hugh Johnson in the Wine Atlas of Germany (1995). “We use this historically proven classification at Dr. Loosen. Only wines from the six top-rated sites (indicated on the map to the right) are bottled with a single-vineyard designation. All others are labeled simply as estate wines” Ernst Loosen said.
Berkasteler Lay, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat, Erdener Treppchen - A full range of Prädikat wines is made from the six grand cru single-vineyard sites. In addition, Weingut Loosen makes Grosses Gewaechs wines – ultra premium dry wines from these exceptional vineyards.
Ernst Loosen explained that the vineyards of Weingut Dr. Loosen owe their excellent quality to three major factors: the exceptional regional climate of the Middle Mosel area, the mineral-rich slate and volcanic soils, and the incredible age of the estate’s ungrafted Riesling vines. These elements are the building blocks of each vineyard’s terroir and have long been recognized for their importance in producing outstanding wines.
Estate Wines
All the grapes that do not go into single vineyard wines are used for the 2 Estate Wines, Blue Slate and Red Slate. In the USA, Ernst offers a dry Red Slate wine and a fruity sweet (Kabinett) Blue Slate wine.
The Red Slate Riesling is sourced from parcels in Uerzig and Erden, while the Blue Slate Riesling is sourced from vineyards in Bernkastel, Graach and Wehlen, where the soil is pure blue slate.
Dr. L
Dr. L is Ernst Loosen’s hugely popular entry-level wine. It is made with grapes bought from other grape growers in the Mosel Valley. As a new development, Weingut Dr. Loosen now offers two Dr. L wines, one with some residual sweetness and one dry. The latter was introduced to the American market just recently.
Ernst Loosen in Oregon
Ernst Loosen’s most recent project is a joint venture with Jay Somers in Oregon. Located in Oregon’s Northern Willamette Valley, J. Christopher Wines is a small winery that specializes in Pinot Noir made in the traditional style of Burgundy. The winery also produces Sauvignon Blanc modeled after the great wines of Sancerre. The philosophy at J. Christopher is to produce wines in an Old World style that emphasizes focus, length and balance. Last year, Jay Somers left the winery and J. Christopher is now fully owned by Ernst Loosen.
Picture: Christian Schiller at the J. Christopher Winery Ernst Loosen in the Pfalz
In 1996, Ernst Loosen took over the J.L. Wolf estate so that he could make traditionally crafted Pfalz wines to complement the light and elegant Dr. Loosen Rieslings he produces in the Mosel. In the classic style of the Pfalz, these wines are more full-bodied than Mosel wines, with higher alcohol and rich flavors of ripe fruit and stone.
Ernst Loosen in Washington State
Promoting the worldwide ascendancy of Riesling was a big reason why Ernst Loosen began a joint venture with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State a bit more than 10 years ago. He was convinced that it would take a seriously good New World Riesling to help bring the variety back to the forefront. Eroica was launched in 1999. Named for Beethoven’s Third Symphony, Eroica is supposed to reflect not only its variety and site, but also its heritage: bold and forward from its Washington roots, elegant and refined from German inspiration.
The wine is made at Chateau Ste. Michelle from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley. They make three kinds of the Eroica. The regular Eroica, an icewine and a single berry selection. The latter is made in the traditional German Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) style and is one of the few TBAs in North America.
Loosen Bros. Imports in the USA
Ernst Loosen is not only a producer of wines, but also runs – with his brother Thomas Loosen - an import company, with a remarkable portfolio.
Dr. Loosen (Mosel, Germany),
Villa Wolf (Pfalz, Germany)
Weingut Robert Weil (Rheingau, Germany),
Weingut Fritz Haag (Mosel, Germany),
C. von Schubert - Maximin Grünhaus (Ruwer, Germany),
Weingut Wittmann (Rheinhessen, Germany)
Domaine de Bellene and Maison Roche de Bellene (Burgundy, France),
Gantenbein (Graubünden, Switzerland)
J. Christopher Wines (Willamette Valley, Oregon)
Castello di Morcote (Southern Switzerland)
Domaine Fond Moiroux (Beaujolais)
Jim Barry (Australia/ Claire Valley)
Tasting
We tasted 8 wines with Ernie Loosen.
The Wines
2017 Dr. Loosen Blauschiefer Riesling trocken
2017 Dr. Loosen Graacher Riesling trocken
2017 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Alte Reben GG trocken
2017 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Alte Reben GG trocken
2013 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Alte Reben GG Reserve trocken
2017 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
2017 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
2016 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
schiller-wine: Related Postings (Ernst Loosen)
Riesling from Germany and Pinot Noir from Oregon: A Winemaker Dinner with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen and J.Christopher Wines, at Black Salt in Washington DC
Riesling, Pinot Noir and Indian Cuisine: A tête-à-tête Dinner with Winemaker Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at Rasika in Washington DC, USA
Ernst Loosen and Dr. L. Riesling - His Hugely Popular Entry-level Wine Sold Throughout the World
The Doctor Made a House Call - A Tasting with Ernst Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen, at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC, USA
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Wine ratings: Two American/German wines - Eroica and Poet's Leap - on Top 100 Wines from Washington State list for 2009
German American Wines: (1) Pacific Rim Riesling (2) Eroica and (3) Woelffer's Schillerwein
The German Winemakers at the 4th Riesling Rendezvous in Seattle, USA
Riesling Revolution in China: Weingut Dr. Loosen, Germany, Domaine Hugel et Fils, Alsace and Jim Barry, Australia - China Tour to Promote Riesling
A Riesling Guru and a Killer Guitarist cum Cult Winemaker: Ernst Loosen and Jay Somers and their J. Christopher Winery in Newberg, Oregon
Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany
The World of Riesling in Seattle - Fourth Riesling Rendezvous in Washington State, USA
On the Way from Düsseldorf, Germany, to Portland, Oregon: Winemaker Jay Somers, J. Christopher Wines, Stops in Northern Virginia, USA
schiller-wine: Related Postings (Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling - Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Attending the 2019 VDP.Weinbörse - Vintage 2018 - in Mainz - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Joachim Flick in Hochheim, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Lunch at the Weingut Schloss Johannisberg Gutsrestaurant - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Wegeler in Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Robert Weil in Kiedrich, Rheingau, with Jan Christensen - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Kloster Eberbach: Overnight-Stay, Dinner, Tour and Aperitif in the Steinberg Vineyard - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Wining in the Steinberg Vineyard– Germany-North Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Lunch, Cellar Visit and Tasting at Weingut Baron Knyphausen in Erbach, Rheingau, with Owner Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen and Winemaker Arne Willkens - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Kaufmann in Hattenheim, Rheingau, with Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Family-style Wine-pairing Lunch at Weingut Hans Lang - Kaufmann, with Owners/ Winemakers Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Sekt Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting in the Vineyard at Weingut Laquai in Lorch, Rheingau, with Gundolf Laquai - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Lunch in Bacharach, Mittelrhein Region - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Tasting and Vineyard Drive at Weingut Ratzenberger in Bacharach, Mittelrhein, with Jochen Ratzenberger - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Rhine River Cruise in the Mittelrhein Valley, an UNESCO World Heritage Region - Germany-North Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Franzen, Bremm, Terrassen-Mosel, with Angelina Franzen - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Tasting at Weingut Jos. Jos. Prüm in Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel, with Amei Prüm - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Wine Dinner at Weingut Richard Böcking in Traben-Trarbach, Middle Mosel, with Owner Denman Zirkle - Germany-North Tour 2019 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential Riesling
Tasting at winery Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Middle Mosel, with Ernst Loosen
Wine Tasting at Weingut Dr. Loosen in Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel – Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Ernst Loosen Presented his Wines at Weingut Dr. Loosen, Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel Valley, Germany
Weingut Dr. H Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef: Visit of the famous Berncasteler Doctor Cellar and Tour and Tasting at Weingut Dr. H Thanisch - Erben Mueller-Burggraef, with Ownwe Matthias Willkomm
The Wines of the Berncasteler Doctor, Bernkastel-Kues in the Mosel Valley, Germany
Lunch at Restaurant Juffer Flair of Weingut Christian Steinmetz in Brauneberg
Tasting at winery Haart in Piesport, Mosel, with Johannes Haart
Schiller’s Favorite Wine Taverns in Trier, Germany
Cellar tour and tasting at winery Peter Lauer in Ayl, Upper Mosel, Saar Valley, with Katharina Lauer and Peter Lauer
Lunch at Weinrestaurant Ayler Kupp at winery Peter Lauer
Tasting at winery H. Dönnhoff, Oberhausen, Nahe, with Anne Dönnhoff
Wine Tasting and Cellar Tour at Weingut Dönnhoff with Christina Dönnhoff– Germany-North Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2014)
An Afternoon with Riesling Star Winemaker Helmut Doennhoff at Weingut Doennhoff in Oberhausen in the Nahe Valley, Germany
Visit and tasting at winery Dr. Crusius, Traisen, Nahe, with Peter and Judith Crusius.
Vineyard tour, cellar tour and tasting at winery Kruger-Rumpf, Münster-Sarmsheim, Nahe, with Stefan and Georg Rumpf
Tour, Tasting, Dinner and Overnight Stay at Weingut Kruger Rumpf, Nahe, with Stefan, Cornelia and Georg Rumpf– Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard tour and tasting at winery Bischel in Appenheim, Rheinhessen, with Christian Runkel, Owner and Winemaker
Winery visit and lunch at winery Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Konstantin Guntrum
Guntrum is Back (Stuart Pigott/ James Suckling): Wine Pairing Lunch and Tour at Weingut Louis Guntrum in Nierstein, Rheinhessen, with Owners Konstantin and Stephanie Guntrum - Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours
Mainlust “Desche Otto” – an Ultra Traditional Apple Wine Tavern, with an Innovative Twist, off the Beaten Track in Schwanheim, Frankfurt am Main, Germany