On November 26, 2018, German wine journalist Stuart Pigott published in the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung his favorite German wines and favorite German wine makers of the year – in German (Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung, 26. November 2018). See: Best German Wines and Winemakers – Stuart Pigott’s Favorites (December 2018)
Stuart Pigott's Winemaker of the Year: Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken
Stuart Pigott: When Christian Stahl took over in 2000 the winemaking responsibility at Winzerhof Stahl, the vineyard area totalled 1.5 hectares of this mixed farming estate. 18 years later, Stahl looks back on about 2,000 percent growth, which makes some world-famous German winemaker look pretty pale. Of course, that's not a compelling reason to give him this award. Decisive for this is the combination of this growth with the consistently first-class quality of the wines of Christian Stahl and his enormous innovation drive. Already a decade ago, he attracted attention with his groundbreaking expressive dry white wines from the much-vaunted Müller-Thurgau grape and the surprisingly lively and juicy Silvaner white wines. Since then he is also one of the best German producers of dry white wines from the varieties Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, without imitating the French specialists. The 2017 Edelstahl barrel 500 bottling from these two varieties show a sensational harmony of ripe fruit, body, freshness and subtle oak notes from the new wooden barrel (each € 38, not yet on sale, can be reserved). No wonder that Stahl's wines are so successful in top-class gastronomy.
Winemaker Christian L. Stahl
With 3/5 grapes in the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2019, Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, belongs to the elite of winemakers in Germany. Winzerhof Stahl is in Franken. Like so many other colleagues from this region, Christian L. Stahl’s Franken wines are virtually unknown outside of Germany.
Within Germany, however, Christian has shown a very strong performance. When Christian Stahl took over the winery of his parents about 10 years ago, the vineyard area totaled 2 hectares. Within a decade, he has gone to 20 hectares. When Christian Stahl took over, the winery was not even mentioned in Germany’s wine guides, like the Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland. Within a decade, he has gone from 0/5 to 3/5 grapes. Christian got the second grape in 2012 and the third grape in 2014.
Born in 1978, Christian has been in charge of Winzerhof Stahl since 2005. He started his education at Weingut Stein in Würzburg (apprenticeship) in 1999, then spent some time with the biodynamic winemaker Jakob-Peter Kühn in the Rheingau and finished his studies with a Diploma at the Geisenheim University.
Dry, Fresh, Crisp White Wines
All of the wines of Winzerhof Stahl are bone-dry. He does not produce any sweet-style (fruity-sweet or noble-sweet) wines. Many wine drinkers, in particular outside of Europe, when they see a German wine in the shelves, have the association of a sweet-style wine. This is however misguided. German wines as a rule are dry wines.
Steffen Christmann, the President of the VDP, the German elite wine maker association, estimates that 95% of German wine beyond a price point of Euro 15 is dry. Christian Witte, former Domain Administrator of Schloss Johannisberg, says that 85% of the wines he exports to the US are sweet-style. This was 95% 10 years ago. Thus, with his bone-dry wines, Christian L. Stahl is in a niche in the American market, but in a rapidly expanding niche as the world discovers German dry wine.
Wine Classification
Christian Stahl belongs to the group of German winemakers, who go their own way in terms of classifying and naming their wines. Also, he does not sell his wines in the traditional Bocksbeutel bottle, as most of his colleagues do in Franken, but in regular bottles, as in the rest of Germany. Right from the beginning when he took over, he has been using screw caps only.
With regard to classifying his wines, Christian disregards the German (standard) classification of 1971 and markets all his wines as Qualitätswein b.A. But he is not in the group of winemakers, who have instead adopted the VDP approach to classify their wines. He has developed his own, innovative classification system, playing with his name Stahl (= steel).
Christian Stahl groups his wines into 3 categories:
Top: Edel STAHL (= precious steel)
Middle: DAMASZENER STAHL
Entry: feder STAHL
Stahl Wines in the USA
Christian decided to start exporting to the US in 2016. He focuses on the Washington DC, Chicago and New York markets. See: Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany
When Christian came for the second time, he was the guest of honor at our annual Riesling Party: Annette and Christian Schiller’s Summer of Riesling 2016 in McLean, Virginia, with German Star Winemaker Christian L. Stahl, German Wine Journalist Joachim A.J. Kaiser and Virginia Star Winemaker Chris Pearmund
In January 2017 Annette organized a winemaker dinner with him at Evo Bistro in McLean, Virginia. 50 people showed up for the dinner (US$110) and had a great time with the outstanding wines of Christian L. Stahl and outstanding food of Chef Driss.
Before the dinner, Annette and Christian Schiller, had invited to a reception with Christian L. Stahl had their private home. We had Rappahanock oysters from Virginia and Stahl wine. They paired very well.
I had met Christian some time ago in Germany at the top Restaurant SchauMahl in Frankfurt/ Germany, were he came for a winemaker dinner.
Christian L. Stahl - Winemaker and Chef
In Germany, among wine aficiniados, it is well known that Christian L. Stahl is an outstanding winemaker.
Not so well known is that Christian L. Stahl is also an outstanding chef. He demonstrated his abilities to us when he prepared a most exquisite 5 course luncheon for us during the Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Christian was in the kitchen cooking for us. Of course, he served his wonderful wines with the meal.
Lunch at the Vinothek of Winzerhof Stahl, with Chef and Winemaker Christian L. Stahl
The lunch was served in the Vinothek of Winzerhof Stahl, with the wines of Winzerhof Christian L. Stahl. The food was excellent, both in terms of presentation and taste. It was at a level that I have experienced in 1 star Michelin restaurants.
See: Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
Christian L. Stahl cooked the food for us. He came out to the table for every cours to explain the cours and the wines.
EDELSTAHL – Brause! 2015
Misobutter, Tomatenbutter, Wood Oven Bread
Damaszener Stahl
Scheurebe [Botenstoff] 2016 trocken
Scallops – Celery – Pineapple – Elderflower – Rice – Coconut
EHL STAHL Sauvignon blanc 2016 trocken
Hamachi - Avocado - Oliveoil-infused Cucumber - Soy Burrata Pearls - Tomatoskin
Damaszener Stahl – Hasennest Müller Thurgau 2016 trocken &
EDELSTAHL – SILVANER BEST OF 2016 trocken
Red Mullet – Fennel - Orangesphere - Fried Nori – Sauce Rouille
roter stahl – barrique 2011 trocken
Dove – Breast & Leg – Aspargus – Bulgur – Chilantro – Brownbutter - Foam
Cassiss Sorbet – Vanilla Ice – Fruits - Cake
Stuart Pigott
Stuart Pigott , born in the UK, was Berlin-based for more than 20 years. During this period, he emerged as the leading German wine writer, mostly writing in German, and focusing on German wine. Notably, from 2001 to 2018, he’s been the wine columnist for the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (Germany’s equivalent of the New York Times or the South China Morning Post), and he’s even filmed three series for the acclaimed TV show Wine Wonder Germany for the public broadcast channel of Bavaria.
A few years ago, Stuart Pigott started to spend a lot of time in New York City, turning his attention to the global world of Riesling. His first major output of the move to New York City was a major book about Riesling in the world, which was published in June 2014: The Best White Wine on Earth: The Riesling Story. Since 2016, Stuart is back in Germany, in the Frankfurt area. Until very recently, Stuart was a contributing editor of JamesSuckling.com, in charge of the wines of Germany and Austria as well as the East Coast of the United States. Recently, Weingut Hermansberg (Nahe) announced that Stuart had become its Riesling Ambassador.
See also:
Best Wine Bars: On the Heels of Stuart Pigott in New York
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Announcement: ombiasy WineTours in 2019 - Germany-North and Bordeaux
Ombiasy Wine Tours 2018: 3 x France and 3 x Germany - Ombiasy Newsletter December 2017
UPCOMING Tours/ Wine Dinners/ Tastings - Annette and Christian Schiller/ ombiasyPR & WineTours/ schiller-wine, Germany, France, USA (Issued: May 1, 2019)
Late Night German Riesling Tasting with Riesling Gurus Paul Grieco and Stuart Pigott in Washington DC on the 2013 Riesling Road Trip, USA
Tasting the Best of Virginia Wines in Frankfurt, Germany, with Stuart Pigott: Virginia Governor's Cup Case 2016
Best Wine Bars: On the Heels of Stuart Pigott in New York
Welcome to the USA: Christian L. Stahl from Winzerhof Stahl in Franken, Germany
Lunch with Christian L. Stahl, Winzerhof Stahl, Franken: Not only a Gifted Winemaker but also a Gifted Chef - Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours
German Wine at Cleveland Park Wines in Washington DC, with Chris Bartha from Ultra Fine Wines and Annette and Christian Schiller from ombiasy WineTours
The Bistronomics Cuisine of Chef Christoph Kubenz and the Wines of Winemaker Christian Stahl at Restaurant schauMahl in Frankfurt, Germany