We started the 7th day of our Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours - Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France - with a cellar Tour and tasting at Château Durfort-Vivens, which is in Margaux. It is a 2ième Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 ranking. It is one of the estates of the Lurton family, owned by Gonzague Lurton. His nice, Pauline Lurton, Export Manager North America and North Europe, was our host.
In the cellar we met Technical Director Léopold Valentin, while he and his team were installing a series of new amphora in the cellar.
Château Durfort-Vivens is another Château owned by a member of the Lurton family. The history of Château Durfort-Vivens stretches back as far as the 14th century, when it was in the hands of the Durfort de Duras family. Throughout the centuries there was a succession of owners. In 1937 Pierre Ginestet (remember: the very first visit of this tour was to Maison Ginestet) bought the Château. He also was the administrator of Château Margaux and for three decades the Durfort-Vivens wines were vinified in Château Margaux and hence they were regarded as being a second wine of Château Margaux.
In 1961 the Ginestet family sold most of the Durfort-Vivens estate to Lucien Lurton. Lucien bought the vineyards and the cellars but not the actual Château building. Today the Château itself is named Château Marojallia and belongs to Philippe Porcheron.
In 1992 Lucien gave Château Durfort-Vivens to his son Gonzague Lurton. Shortly after Gonzague took over he moved the wine making back to Durfort-Vivens. He built a new “chai” and installed new wooden and cement fermentation vats, complete with temperature control. In 1999 be began to convert to biodynamic viticulture and in the 2016 vintage the wine was certified biodynamic for the first time.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
Berry Bros. & Rudd: Château Durfort-Vivens has been owned by the Lurton family since 1961 when Lucien Lurton purchased it from the Gineset family. For many years this 2ème Cru Classé Margaux property was perceived as underachieving - however, the estate has undergone a mini-renaissance since Lucien`s son Gonzague took over at the helm.
Durfort-Vivens's vineyards(Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 15%) lie on gravelly soils interspersed with limestone. Vinification includes approximately 18 months' wood ageing, 30-50% new oak.
The proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend (82%) is the highest of any wine in the southern Médoc and gives the wine classic blackcurrant and cassis characteristics as well as notable tannins and structure. Durfort-Vivens may be approached after 5 years or so in bottle but will continue improving for up to 10 years.
Tasting
The visit ended with a tasting in the tasting room. Pauline poured 2 wines.
2014 Château Durfort-Vivens, Appellation Margaux, 2ième Grand Cru Classé
Wine-searcher average price in US$:50
Wine Enthusiast (94/100): This is a wine that is obviously made for the long term. At this stage is dry and firm, serious and solid. The aftertaste reveals its enormous potential with the generous black fruits and acidity. The estate, in the heart of the Margaux vineyards, is impressive. Drink from 2025.
2012 Vivens/ Le Relais du Durfort-Vivens
Wine-searcher average price in US$:30
Château Durfort-Vivens: On this vintage, we focused on the fruitiness and finesse. The nose is still a little buttered. It expresses nice aromas of red berries (redcurrant and blueberry, violet and blond tobacco. On the palate, the attack is smooth and evolves towards a fine and fresh texture.The wine is at the same time fleshy, juicy and fruity. It tastes like a candy. The finish is quite long and elegant with notes of fresh fruit and vanilla. It will perfectly match with a rib of beef, risotto with ceps and cheeses.
The Lurton and the Merlaut Families
Gonzague Lurton and his wife Claire Villars Lurton, who comes from the Merlaut family, own 5 estates. Gonzage brought Château Durfort-Vivensinto the marriage, Claire the other 3 Bordeaux estates. They bought the American winers togather after they go married
Château Durfort-Vivens, 2nd Classified Growth in Margaux
Château Ferrière, 3rd Classified Growth in Margaux
Château Haut-Bages Liberal, 5th Classified Growth in Pauillac
Château La Gurgue, Margaux
ACAIBO, in the Sonoma Valley/ USA
Claire Villars Lurton
Though she was born into a wine growers' family, the Merlaut family, Claire Villars Lurton did not intend to manage a property. She lived in Paris where she had a master's degree in chemistry and physics. She was preparing a thesis in physics when her parents died in an accident in 1992. She decided to get actively involved in the management of the family properties. She gave up her studies and joined her grandfather Jacques Merlaut to continue the work of her mother Bernadette Villars Merlaut.
Jacques Merlaut and the Taillan Group
The Taillan Group (€180 million in sales, 350 employees) was founded in 1961 by Jacques Merlaut. It is headed today by his son Denis Merlaut. The family-run company has grown through the acquisitions of three trading houses : Maison Ginestet (Grands Crus Classés, Chateaux), Joseph Verdier (Loire, IGP, VDF, VDPCEE), Vignobles & Compagnie (Rhône, Languedoc, Provence, IGP OC).
The Taillan Group is the owner of 21 châteaux (representing 492 hectares) in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley and Cahors. Among the most famous are Gruaud Larose (2nd cru classé), Château Citran (cru bourgeois) et Château Broustet (2nd cru classé).
Bye-bye
Before leaving this magic place: A view through the windows of the tasting room of Chateau Margaux and Chateau Palmer.
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France (Published and Forthcoming Postings)
Total Immersion in Bordeaux: World Class Wines and Exquisite French Gourmet Cuisine - Bordeaux Tour 2018 by ombiasy WineTours, France
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