‘In this discipline [dry Riesling], this estate has essentially no rival in all of Germany. In fact, given their sheer vineyard potential–they’re capable of producing seven grand crus and an equal number of premier crus in any given vintage–this may well be the best and most consistent producer of great dry Riesling in the world.’ - Joel B. Payne, Vinous, January 2013.
‘This estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage from an incredible arsenal of excellent vineyards. One of the first estates in Germany to embrace biodynamic viticulture, Burklin-Wolf is now able give each wine its own voice, and in 2007 they all sang in perfect tune. There are few estates in the world that could match this performance-and then throw in excellent TBAs for good measure.’ - Steve Tanzer Jan/Feb 2009.
When we checked-in at Hotel Ritter von Böhl in Deidesheim, Pfalz, we agreed to meet an hour later for a wine tavern tour of Deidesheim.
Annette had advised: Take the time and explore Deidesheim, a small, picturesque village with half-timbered houses and rustic wine taverns. Time takes on a different meaning in this part of Germany; sipping a glass of wine, savoring delicious local specialties, that’s what is important. The former German chancellor Helmut Kohl, who lived close by, made Deidesheim famous, as he took his powerful guests, such as Margaret Thatcher, the King and Queen of Spain, and Michail Gorbatschow, to Deidesheim to try the Saumagen, his favorite dish.
Hotel Ritter von Böhl in Deidesheim, is a 3 star very unique guest house with a 7oo year old history. From its foundation over 700 years ago, it continuously served as a ‘Hotel”. Yet it was only recently that the house was converted to a hotel in our definition of modern times: to provide lodging to the traveler. Since its foundation in the 13th century it served as a “Hotel Dieu”, a hospital and home for the sick, the poor, and the elderly. Still today it caters to the handicapped, and while we are in modern times, internet connection however can sometimes be very poor because the more than 1 meter thick old 700 year old walls obstruct the signal flow.
In the event, we did not get far. On the first stop - Weinbar & Vinothek Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf just next to our hotel - we run into the Managing Director of Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Steffen Brahner. He invited us for cheese and cold cuts and showed us the new Bürklin-Wolf collection, with Marco Gulino (Host Weinbar) and Riccardo Korner (Host Vinothek).
Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf - VDP
The estate was founded in 1597, but it wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that it reached its present size and worldwide fame at the hand of the privy councilor Dr. Albert Bürklin. With 86 hectares (212 acres) of vineyards in the heart of the Mittelhaardt district, Bürklin-Wolf numbers among the most renowned estates of Germany. In 1990, Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze inherited the estate. She lives with her four children in one of the most beautiful wine estates of Germany. For years, her commitment to the concept of terroir has been a genuine expression of respect for nature and its soils. Her viewpoint: We want to preserve the wealth of our soils in the finest sites of Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. With a view to assuring the perpetuity of the vines, we practice biodynamic viticulture.
Owner: Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze
Winemaker: Nicolla Libelli
Outside Manager Alexander Strohschneider
Hectares of vineyards 87
Bottle production 500 000
Grape varieties: 82% Riesling, 6% Spätburgunder, 7% Pinot Blanc
History
Bernhard Bürklin (1580–1636), the town clerk and later mayor of Wachenheim, acquires extensive agricultural and viticultural holdings, and establishes the Bürklin family's viticultural tradition in Wachenheim. In the unsettled period of the Wars of Succession, the fortunes of the Bürklin family in Wachenheim are no longer traceable, it is only 200 years later that the name reappears in Karlsruhe-Durlach.
Johann Ludwig Wolf (1777–1840): „Owner of outstanding vineyard sites in Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg“ writes a wine merchant of the time about Johann Ludwig Wolf, at the same time, he is one of the richest men in the Pfalz. On his death, the extensive agricultural properties, forests and the Grohé banking house in Neustadt are passed on to his 3 children.
Luise Wolf (1847–1925): In 1875, the granddaughter of Johann Ludwig Wolf, and heiress to most of his wealth and property, marries privy councillor Dr. Albert Bürklin from Karlsruhe-Durlach, laying the foundation for the winery’s current name, "Dr. Bürklin-Wolf".
His excellency, privy councillor Dr. Albert Bürklin (1844–1924): Dr. Albert Bürklin is vice-president of the German Reichstag (parliament) from 1884 to 1895, and from 1889 he is the director of the Baden Court Theatre in Karlsruhe. His palace in Karlsruhe is the focal point of cultural life in the royal seat. Following his marriage to Luise Wolf in 1875 he moved to Wachenheim, and expanded the Estate to become a model of quality wine production.
Ökonomierat Dr. Albert Bürklin (1907–1979): The great-nephew of the same name inherits the entire property in 1924, and continues along the same path. After World War II, the lawyer and “Ökonomierat” (title awarded for outstanding public service) is particularly active in rebuilding agriculture and viticulture in the Pfalz. His entrepreneurial foresight leads him along new paths in viticulture, helping the Estate to flourish once more. The philosophy of acquiring additional vineyards, systematically expanding the cellar facilities and marketing and distributing only top quality wines ensures the Estate makes great strides both nationally and internationally during the stewardship of Dr. Albert Bürklin.
Oenologist Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze (Since 1990): In 1990, Bettina, Dr. Albert Bürklin's eldest daughter, took over the Estate from her parents, together with her husband Christian von Guradze. Their decision to classify the vineyard sites according to the Burgundian tradition, as well as their decision to convert the entire vineyard area to bio-dynamic production methods was a revolutionary move in German viticulture.
Classification
Bettina Bürklin-von Guradze: The German wine law of 1971, which is currently in effect, creates the impression that every vineyard site is capable of producing any quality, provided the must weight is high enough.
We have been convinced for a long time that a specific vineyard site is capable of producing a defined maximum quality. This is determined by many factors such as the soil and microclimate as well as the grape variety grown on that site.
As early as 1828, the Kingdom of Bavaria carried out the royal Bavarian vineyard classification of individual sites, using a similar system. It is not least because of the geographic similarity with the Côte-d'Or in Burgundy that we were inspired by both these systems in applying our own, estate-specific classification. Thus, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf started classifying the vineyards according to a clear structure in 1994. The maxim is that the terroir determines the quality.
Starting in 1990, we compiled a quality pyramid for our vineyards that is based both on the royal Bavarian classification of 1828 and on the Burgundian principle:
Our G.C. wines can be considered to be the Grands Crus of the Mittelhaardt, they are outstanding solitaires of a rare terroir, truly great wine personalities that cannot be fully appreciated in a quick moment. The wines are fermented and matured exclusively in large oak vats, and are fermented using wild yeasts.
The P.C. classification should be seen as wines that would correspond to those from Premier Cru sites in Burgundy. These Riesling wines combine the characteristic traits of the region with the individual expression of the terroir in each case, in a most fascinating manner. The P.C. wines are also fermented in large oak vats using wild yeasts.
A step below this are the village Riesling wines – wines sourced from unclassified sections of our vineyard sites in Ruppertsberg and Wachenheim, and which display the characteristic aromas and taste of wines from these communes.
The basic wine of our classification is the estate Riesling. It is a blend of Riesling sites in all four communes of the Mittelhaardt region in which the Estate has vineyard holdings.
Grand Cru and Premier Cru Holdings of Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Forst, Deidesheim, Ruppertsberg and Wachenheim
Forst
G.C. Kirchenstück 0,54
G.C. Jesuitengarten 0,59
G.C. Ungeheuer 0,93
G.C. Pechstein 1,71
Deidesheim
G.C. Hohenmorgen 0,88
G.C. Kalkofen 0,68
G.C. Langenmorgen 0,68
Ruppertsberg
G.C. Gaisböhl(Monopole site) 7,55
G.C. Reiterpfad 0,83
P. C. Hoheburg 4,68
Wachenheim
P.C. Altenburg 0,40
P.C. Böhlig 3,11
P.C. Gerümpel 4,44
P.C. Goldbächel 1,59
P.C. Rechbächel (Monopole site) 1,60
The Wines we Tasted
2014 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Ruppertsberger Riesling
2016 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Forster Riesling
Two wines at the Ortswein-level.
Traditionally Forst and Deidesheim may have a bit more of a ring to their name than Ruppertsberg. .
2013 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Ruppertsberger Hoheburg P.C.
2016 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer Gerümpel P.C.
Two wines at the Premier Cru level.
2014 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Reiterpfad G.C.
2015 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Reiterpfad G.C.
2015 Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Gaisböhl G.C.
Three wines at the Grand Cru level.
Reiterpfad Ruppertsberg ("Rider's path") is the largest in the group of top vineyards at 87 ha of terraces lying to the west of Ruppertsberg, which runs into Deidesheim to the north. Layers of calciferous sediments conditions the configuration of the vineyard which is surrounded by walls of red sandstone.
Gaisböhl is a Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf monopole site.
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