About an hour away by car from Bordeaux City is the Bassin d'Arcachon. The Bassin d’Arcachon is one of the most beautiful regions in France. This region is a perfect mix of the earthy traditions of the Landes region and the seaside joys of the Atlantic coast of France. It has a special atmosphere with stunning landscapes and culinary traditions.
On the Bordeaux Tour by ombiasy WineTours, we always spent one day at the Bassin d'Arcachon. Our favorite place for lunch is Pinasse Café, Cap Ferret, with a gorgeous view over the bay, the oyster farms and the village of Arcachon and the Dunes de Pilat, the largest in Europe, in the distance. If we are lucky - and this time we were lucky - during lunch you can watch the water recede and the oyster banks emerge. Some of us walked to the oyster banks after lunch to take a closer look.
The Bassin d'Arcachon
The Bassin d'Arcachon is a bay of the Atlantic Ocean on the southwest coast of France, located just a few kilometres away from Bordeaux. The bay covers an area of 150 km² at high tide and 40 km² at low tide. Just south of the entrance is the Great Dune of Pyla. Nearly in the middle of the bay is a very particular island: L'île aux Oiseaux (Isle of the Birds).
Cap Ferret is a narrow strip of land between the Bay of Arcachon and the Atlantic Ocean where numerous no frills wooden oyster shacks line the beach (cabanes de pecheurs). The menu simply lists different kinds of oysters and their prices. It’s here that a large part of France’s 130,000-ton oyster harvest is produced. Cap Ferret is a fishing village with numerous oyster and seafood places.
Lunch at Pinasse Café
2 B avenue de l Ocean | Cap Ferret, 33970, Lege-Cap-Ferret, France
A "pinasse" describes a small sail boat design which served French oystermen for centuries as an important work boat. They were about 20 to 30 feet long, narrow, flat bottomed, with a round stern, usually equipped with one mast (occasionally also two), no jib, a center board at times and a rudder, with plenty carrying capacity for oysters. If the oystermen happened to get stuck in a prolonged wind lull, they could return to shore by paddle.
Oyster Banks in Front of the Pinasse Café
From the Pinasse Café you have a good view of the oyster banks in front of Pinasse Café. You can even go there when the water recedes.
Restaurant Chez Hortense
With the group, we always have lunch at Pinasse Café, for a number of reasons, including the more central location and the view of the oyster banks. Another fine seafood place is Restaurant Chez Hortense, closer to the tip of Cap Ferret.
Avenue du Semaphore, 33950, Lege-Cap-Ferret, France
Paris Match: Face à eux, les plus belles vues : l’île aux Oiseaux, le banc d’Arguin, la dune du Pilat. Et, pour lieu de rendez-vous, Chez Hortense, une institution. On n’y respire pas seulement l’iode mais aussi l’Histoire. Au départ, il y eut Hortense Lescarret, qui ouvrit l’établissement à la fin de la Première Guerre mondiale. Depuis, quatre générations se sont succédé, dont la dernière représentante est Bernadette, sans aucun doute une des femmes les plus connues de la commune. Impossible de la louper, dans une robe à fleurs multicolore. Auprès d’elle, François et Olivier, ses deux fils, et Frédéric, son neveu. Midi et soir, la terrasse affiche complet. Les tables sont réservées dix jours à l’avance.
lexpress.com: Bernadette Lescarret, la patronne de Chez Hortense. Qui ne connaît pas Chez Hortense n'est pas... du bassin d'Arcachon ! Cette institution de Cap-Ferret a vu quatre générations d'habitués se succéder. Aux fourneaux, les troisième et quatrième générations des Crampé oeuvrent de concert : Bernadette Lescarret, 60 ans, ses fils François, 35 ans, en cuisine, et Olivier, 30 ans, en salle, ainsi que son neveu Frédéric, 40 ans. C'est en 1914 qu' Hortense Crampé (grand-mère de Bernadette) rachète avec son mari l'hôtel-restaurant de la pointe de Cap-Ferret. Attaqué par l'érosion, l'hôtel s'effondre en 1936. Pour rouvrir à quelques mètres de là deux ans plus tard. On y sert moules, huîtres rôties au foie gras et poissons grillés, dans une atmosphère familiale.
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