At Weingut Maximin Grünhaus in Mertersdorf, Ruwer, Mosel, we were treated to a cellar tour, vineyard tour and tasting. Owner Dr. Carl von Schubert was our host. For the tasting, Philipp Ederle took over.
Maximin Grünhaus wines are widely available in the US, through Loosen Bros. USA.
Maximin Grünhaus: Exquisite, Expressive Rieslings from a Legendary Ruwer Estate
The Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river, about two kilometres before it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the Von Schubert family and is divided into three separate but contiguous vineyards: the Abtsberg, the Herrenberg, and the Bruderberg.
History
The first documentary evidence of Grünhaus, then called “Villa ad Valles,” dates from February 6, 966. Emperor Otto I, heir of Charlemagne, confirmed a donation that had been made in the Seventh century by the Frankish King Dagobert. At that time, the buildings, vineyards and surrounding land had been given to the Benedictine monastery of Saint Maximin in Trier. Until the end of the 18th century - when Napoleon secularized all church property - the estate was managed by the Abbey of Saint Maximin.
In 1882, it was purchased by an ancestor of Carl von Schubert, who is the fifth generation of his family to own the Grünhaus estate.
Dr. Carl von Schubert, fifth generation of the family, and son Maximin von Schubert, 6th generation, are the current owners. Carl von Schubert’s doctoral thesis examined the economy of viticulture on steep slopes.
Vinyards
The Abtsberg
Wines harvested from this vineyard were originally destined for the table of the Abbot (or Abt) of the Abbey of St Maximin. The site covers 14 hectares, parts of which have been planted with vines for over a thousand years. The subsoil is blue Devonian slate and the hillside runs south-east to south-west, achieving a gradient of up to 70%. Abtsberg wines are characterised by a finely structured subtle minerality, a racy acidity, generous fruit and great delicacy. They are amongst the longest lived Rieslings of the region.
The Herrenberg
Wines from this vineyard were made specially for the Abbey’s Choirmasters. Extending over 19 hectares, the site benefits from deep soils with good water retention, over a base of red Devonian slate. Wines from the Herrenberg show fruit and body early in their lives, but also possess extraordinary ageing potential.
The Bruderberg
The smallest of the vineyards, covering just 1 hectare, the Bruderberg provided wine for the monks (or ‘brothers’). The site has the same Devonian slate soil as the Abtsberg next door, and the wines are very spicy, sometimes with a rustic slaty mineral quality. They are classified entirely as Qualitätswein, and have great ageing potential.
Winemaking
Work in the Maximin Grünhaus vineyards is conducted in close harmony with nature. Fertilisation is predominantly organic, and the vineyards have been planted with a cover crop of wild herbs and grasses. We use no pesticides or herbicides, maintaining the health of the grapes through intensive manual work instead.
Yields are restricted to around 45 - 55 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha). The grapes are harvested by hand and, depending on the character of the vintage, several passes may be made through the vineyard.
The main grape variety at Grünhaus is Riesling, which makes up 94% of the total. A hectare of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois was harvested for the first time in 2008. In 2007, a further hectare was planted with Pinot Noir, for the first time in 150 years.
Tasting
2014 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Spätburgunder VDP.Gutswein
2015 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Pinot Noir VDP.Gutswein
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Pinot Blanc VDP.Gutswein
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Pinot Blanc Reserve VDP.Ortswein
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Monopol VDP.Gutswein
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Alte Reben VDP.Ortswein
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Superior VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Superior VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Bruderberg Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Auslese VDP.Grosse Lage
2016 Weingut Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein VDP.Grosse Lage
Postings: Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir (Posted and Forthcoming)
Germany-North Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours: Quintessential German Riesling and the Northernmost Pinot Noir
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