Annette Schiller led a tasting comparing French and German wines. More specifically, the tasting focused on Burgundy and Alsace in France and Baden and the Pfalz in Germany.
We had a full house. The room for 50 people was packed with 55 people attending.
We poured 7 flights with 2 wines each flight, except for the Crémant flight, were we had 3 Crémants from Burgundy, Alsace and the Pfalz. For each wine, we had 3 bottles, except for the 3 Crémants, where we had 3, 4 and 5 bottles. Most of the wines were bought at MacArthur Beverages in Washington DC. Four of the wines we poured, Annette and I brought from Germany. One wine (2015 Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder) was donated by the Importer Esprit du Vins.
Invitation
German wine lovers! We are excited to present another tasting in Washington, DC. This time, we will be comparing wines from Germany with wines from France. More specifically, we will compare Germany’s Baden and Pfalz regions with French wines from Burgundy and Alsace. We will begin tasting at 7:00pm, Friday October 27, 2017.
The tasting will be led by Annette Schiller, long-time member of the German Wine Society.
We will start off with two Crémants from Burgundy and the Pfalz. Crémants are sparklers made in the Champagne Méthode, but typically at much lower prices.
We will then move on to Burgundy and Baden and focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Burgundy, including Chablis, is well known for its world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. Not so well known, Germany is the #3 Pinot Noir producer in the world. Baden alone grows about as much Pinot Noir as the world’s fourth most important Pinot Noir grower, New Zealand. Such is German enthusiasm for their Spätburgunder, as Pinot Noir is known there, that we don’t see huge quantities on export markets. And, while Spätburgunders from renowned producers are rarely cheap, Burgundy prices are now almost ludicrously high, so alternatives to red burgundy have become increasingly attractive.
Moving to the north from Burgundy and the west from Baden, Alsace is highly appreciated for its unoaked, dry and crisp white wines, including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. North of Alsace, across the border in the Pfalz, winemakers produce similar wines. Overall, the whites from Alsace tend to be more full-bodied and higher in alcohol, while the siblings from the Pfalz tend to be leaner and more elegant. We will compare Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Riesling wines from Alsace and the Pfalz.
In total, we plan to have 12 wines - 3 from each region. The tasting list is being finalized and will be communicated as soon as it is ready.
Light refreshments of charcutterie, cheese and baguette will be served with the wines.
Event cost is $33 for members and $40 non-members. All payment must be received by Monday October 23.
The Tasting
The Wines
This was a most interesting tasting. All wines, both from France and Germany, showed very well. Karen Taylor tweeted that she was impressed by the German Pinot Noirs although it was difficult to overcome her bias for the French Pinot Noirs.
Karen Taylor (@KTinWDC) tweeted during the event:
@ombiasypr gives a spirited and engaging French-German taste-off for DC's German Wine Society. Trying but can't get past my French bias
My takeaway: Some German Pinot Noirs are very good, too bad they are so hard to find stateside
1) Crémant: Burgundy - Alsace - Pfalz
Burgundy: NV La Burgondie, Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut Réserve
Alsace: NV Anne de K., Rosé, Crémant d'Alsace, Brut
Pfalz: 2014 Jülg, Crémant, Brut
Germany is one of the largest sparkling wine markets in the world. One out of four bottles of sparkling wine is consumed in Germany. Sparkling wine produced in Germany is called Sekt.
A Crémant is a sparkling wine produced in the méthode champenoise, but not in Champagne. Initially, crémants could only be produced in France. Crémant de Bourgogne and Crémant d'Alsace are 2 well-known crémants. Today, any sparkling wine made in the méthode champenoise can be marketed as a crémant.
My favorite: Pfalz: 2014 Jülg, Crémant, Brut
2) Chardonnay: Burgundy - Baden
Burgundy, Côte de Beaune:
2014 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault Les Chevalières
Baden, Kaiserstul:
2015 Franz Keller, Oberbergener Bassgeige, Kaiserstul, Erste Lage
Chardonnay is the signature white grape variety in Burgundy. In Baden, Chardonnay accounts for 1 percent of the total. Thierry et Pascale Matrot is a rather large producer in Meursault, Franz Keller is a rather large producer in Oberbergen. The Matrot Chardonnay was at the village wine/ Ortswein level, the Keller Chadonnay at the Premier Cru/ Erste Lage level. The Matrot Chardonnay was broader and had more noticeable oak notes than the crisp Keller Chardonnay.
My favorite: 2014 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Meursault Les Chevalières
3) Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden
Burgundy, Côte de Nuits:
2015 Jean-Michel Guillon, Marsannay, Clos des Portes, Monopole
Baden, Bodensee:
2015 Markgraf von Baden, Bermatinger Spätburgunder
40 years ago, German red wine accounted for only about 15 percent of German wine output. Today, the share of red wine is well over 35 percent. And not only the vineyard area planted with red grapes has expanded dramatically, but also the quality has improved considerably. Today, German red wine can compete with any red wine in the world, I believe. As a result, German red wines are increasingly appearing in the international wine market. Of course, given its location, they tend to be not like the fruity red wines we know from warmer countries, but lean and more elegant, with a lot of finesse.
In the Novermber issue of the Decanter, Anne Krebiehl MW, published an article about the best Pinot Noirs in Germany under the title "Spotlight on Spätburgunder". Not well known, but Germany is the third biggest Pinot Noir producer in the world (after Burgundy and Oregon).
My favorite: 2015 Jean-Michel Guillon, Marsannay, Clos des Portes, Monopole
4) Pinot-Noir: Burgundy – Baden
Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise:
2015 Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey, 1er cru Les Clos du Roy
Baden, Kaiserstul:
2011 Stigler, Ihringer Winkelberg, Spätburgunder, Roter Boden, GG
Faiveley is a well known world class producer in Burgundy.
Andreas Stigler, a member of the VDP, the association of about 200 elite wine producers in Germany, is highly respected in Germany but little known outside of Germany. Annette showed one of his top Spätburgunders, a GG - Top dry wine from a Grosse Lage (Grand Cru).
My favorite: 2011 Stigler, Ihringer Winkelberg, Spätburgunder, Roter Boden, GG, Erste Lage
5) Pinot-Blanc: Alsace – Pfalz
Alsace:
2014 Trimbach, Pinot Blanc
Pfalz:
2010 Koehler-Ruprecht, Weisser Burgunder, Kallstadter Annaberg, Spätlese trocken
Germany is the biggest Pinot Blanc producer in the world. Annette compared an entry-level wine of the world class producer Trimbach in Ribeauville with a Spätlese trocken (equivalent ot GG) of an iconic producer in the Pfalz, Weingut Köhler-Ruprecht, which recently was sold by the Philippi family to an American.
The German Pinot Blanc - much more expensive than the Trimbach - had more structure, depth and length. The Trimbach, at the price point of US$16 is a steal.
My favorite: 2014 Trimbach, Pinot Blanc
6) Riesling: Alsace – Pfalz
Alsace:
2015 Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Cuvée Théo
Pfalz:
2013 A. Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Erste Lage
This flight compared 2 world class producers of dry Riesling. As expected, the 2015 Domaine Weinbach, Riesling Cuvée Théo, was stunning. But for me, the A. Christmann Riesling was even better (and more expensive). It was drier, sharper, crisper. For me the best white wine of the evening.
My favorite: 2013 A. Christmann, Riesling, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Erste Lage
Picture: Christian Schiller and the Late Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach. See: Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
6) Gewürztraminer: Alsace – Pfalz
Alsace:
2013 Willm, Gewürztraminer, Réserve
Pfalz:
2014 Darting Gewürztraminer, Dürkheimer Nonnengarten, Kabinett
The last flight were 2 inexpensive, sweet-style wines. The Alsatian got its sweetness, I guess, from adding sweet reserve (sterylized juice), while the German Gewürztraminer got its sweetness from stopping the fermentation. The President of the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) ranked the 2014 Darting Gewürztraminer, Dürkheimer Nonnengarten, Kabinett as his #1 white wine.
My favorite: 2013 Willm, Gewürztraminer, Réserve
At Home: Late Night Jazz and Faively
Annette and I ended this great evening some Jazz and another bottle of Faiveley.
Previous Tastings at the German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) led by Annette Schiller
Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World
Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)
Chardonnay: Germany versus Chablis - Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home, USA
The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC
New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Washington DC, USA
schiller-wine: Related Postings
Heads up for the 2017 Tours - to Germany and France - by ombiasy WineTours
Burgundy (and Champagne) 2016 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: From Lyon to Reims - Wine, Food, Culture and History
Invitation: Germany meets France - Baden, Burgundy, Pfalz, Alsace: German Wine Society (Washington DC Chapter) Tasting led by Annette Schiller on October 27, 2017
Germany-South and Alsace 2017 Tour by ombiasy WineTours: Baden, Alsace, Pfalz and Rheinhessen
Wine Lunch at Weingut Jülg with Johannes Jülg– Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Domaine Guillon & Fils in Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, with Jean-Michel Guillon - Bourgogne (and Champagne) Tour 2016 by ombiasy WineTours
Visiting Colette Faller at Domaine Weinbach in Kaysersberg in Alsace
Salon Tasting at Schiller‘s Home: Domaine Weinbach, Alsace, Vintage 2014 (2017)
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Franz Keller in Oberbergen, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Koehler Ruprecht in Kallstadt, Pfalz, with Franzi Schmitt – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Wine Paring Lunch at Restaurant Schwarzer Adler (1 Star Michelin) in Oberbergen, Kaiserstuhl, Baden – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015)
Tour and Tasting at Weingut A. Christmann in Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, with Steffen Christmann – Germany-South Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany
At Maison Trimbach in Alsace with Hubert Trimbach – Germany-South Wine Tour by ombiasy (2014)
Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home: Sparkling Wines of the World
Chardonnay: Germany versus Chablis - Salon Tasting at Schiller's Home, USA
The New Germany – Red, Dry, Sparkling: German Wine Society Tasting, led by Annette Schiller, at Restaurant Old Europe in Washington DC
New Developments in German Wine - Annette Schiller at the German Wine Society in Washington DC, USA